I have the SRAM RockShox C1 and got the sag issue in less than a year. My LBS won’t touch it. Thanks for the video. Considering scraping it, what a pain.
I’ve had a reverb . When they are working they feel amazing; key word when they are working. Since then I now only buy the brand x ascend droppers. They have them from 125,150,170and 200mm . I’ve had the 150 and 170 and both have been flawless. I’ve never had to rebuild it either and honestly at only 135 bucks shipped to your door they are an excellent dropper . Sure it may weigh a little more than a high end one . But it functionality wise it’s the same.
@@adamneulander ive had no problem with the lengths, my Ragley marley is an 18' frame and my 170mm dropoper can go all the way flush. i think i could get a way with a 200mm one
Might be worth checking out a oneup dropper v2 if you can find one used. Pretty reliable and very short insertion lengths for the size. Plus you can easily reduce the travel if it's too long
This is 100% inside the post but if he almost over bleeds it so when the remote is in the slowest setting it still shoots up super fast it could get over the issue.
I found an easy fix for the Reverb, it's called the Brand-X Ascend. At this point I have 2 Brand-Xs and a One Up dropper. For my money I'll be buying the Brand-X every time, they are just a great deal and bulletproof. In fact the one I have had for 5 years and the only thing I've ever done to it is add air pressure once.
I’ve used a reverb.. when it works it’s phenomenal 🙌🏽 but even if it was free I wouldn’t take it.. kudos to you for making that attempt to make it work 👍🏽 love your content 🔥
I just got a brand new bike with one of these POS installed, and after one ride and sitting for a few days the Reverb has the spongy sag. I could not freaking believe it when I went out to ride today. There is no way I’m going to rebuild what is basically a brand-new seat post. Screw Rockshox and the team that designed this horrid POS. I have three other bikes with cable-actuated posts, and they work perfectly. What problem did Rockshox think they were fixing with a hydraulic system? Who the hell wants to bleed their damn seat post actuator? Why would a bike maker spec such an abortion of a product? It truly boggles the mind.
It's an expensive upgrade but I would go for the one up v2 dropper. It has a very short insertion depth and you can change the travel by just clicking in some shims. Also it's cable actuated and in my opinion that is the better less fault-prone option with a easier service.
$275 shipped was well worth it to swap out my brand new reverb before it had time to give me any problems. And I got 25mm more travel with the one up 150! There’s another video literally showing replacing the reverb with the one up! Haha
Did you make sure the seat collar was to the right torque? I had an issue where it was too tight and it wouldn’t return correctly. Setting the right torque fixed it.
Congratulations on the 6k brother, I just got the Fork and the shifter🔥🔥🔥 thanks a lot for been so kind with me. Have a great day bro. Greetings from Mexico
Get a OneUp V2 dropper. The 180mm has the same insertion length as other company's 150mm posts. Servicing takes less than 10 minutes. Treat yourself to a quality post it's so refined and well made, worth every penny. At $200 it might cost the same to fix the reverb.
I have a Fox Doss on my bike, but i wanted to get a Rockshox Reverb to go with my fork, since i have a Rockshox fork. But people were telling me that the Reverb has issues, which i didn't believe. But after watching this, i'll just stay with my Fox Doss. Thank you for this video.
I have a rockshox reverb and I had the same problem, you need to bleed it better. you need to turn the speed adjuster to slow and then bleed it. I think that will make the dropper go all the way up
At the remote there is a T25 for adjusting the speed, helped me to screw it nearly completely to + after bleeding. Had a Reverb for the last 2 Years, recently switched to a PNW Loam Dropper. Hated the hydraulic actuation, bleeding after every reconnect, slow extension in the cold... Only at a decent outside temperature it worked fine.
My B1 Reverb needed a big service after it had already failed on that white spacer on the first seals only service. It wasn't too much more expensive to get a OneupV2 and go from 150 to 180mm at the same time. I nearly got the 200 and reduce the travel but worked out the 1mm I should have spare on the insertion was too close to call. Turns out it would have fitted.
Thanks for the video. I just did a full rebleed on my Reverb, and it still has the sag. Guess this is what it needs. I think I'm calling it quits and switching to a cable actuated dropper
Wow, I had no idea this cost over $500. That's some hard core maintenance you tried. I'm having the same issue with my Fox Factory Transfer 125mm not coming all the way up. I haven't been very impressed with it. It came on my high end Pivot bike. The shop I bought it from took it off this past weekend to be sent in for warranty. Hopefully I'll be all set in a few weeks.
my bike came with a rock shock reverb stealth. first crash, it broke so I let lbs fix it. a month later I lifted the bike by the seat, and it no longer functions. I put in a pnw dropper, and the stealth is on the shelf. i got the bleed kit, but not even the slightest bit interested in hydraulic actuated toys that break a lot. . I've had good luck with all my cheap droppers, and kind of have to do more maintenance on the higher dollar ones
Haha dang isn't that weird? I'm not sure if there are other hydraulic actuated droppers, but maybe it's just not meant to be. I also have a PNW and have never serviced it and no problems lol! Glad to hear we had similar issues. You could probably sell that dropper with kit for $100!
Follow the RockShox C1 "vent" procedure if you have a C1. There's a video from Rockshox on this, but they don't tell you what parts actuate the venting if you don't have their tool. The secret (if you don't have their stupid plastic tool) is to use an undersized (eg, 8mm) socket on a ratchet, and use THAT to actuate the vent position. Don't take the valve cap off. You'll be pressing down on the cap itself relative to the seatpost (but you don't want to put pressure into post itself when trying to actuate the vent position -- push down with ratchet, pull up with fingers on the seatpost flange thing). If for whatever reason you want to remove the cap to add air, use a 9mm. Spec is 300psi; mine had 200psi and works fine so i'm not touching it. Mine started sagging with 350 miles on it so I suspect it'll get crappy again soon. But for now it's rideable.
You have to bleed it again and try to pull a better vacuum. Also make sure you “slow it down”. To the right of the bleed port on the lever. Slow it down when bleeding and then speed it back up once you are finished.
I've had similar issues with my specialized comand dropper, not sure if the issue is the same as yours but spray some silicone spray on the stanchion and cycle it through a few times, should "lube" everything up. always enjoying your videos
If you have sag - a bleed or basic service kit is no good - it needs a complete rebuild - one of the o-rings (or IFP) is crap and you'll never know which, so you replace them all. The key is the bleed in the seat post itself - removal of excess fluid after you fill it up flush. It's worth it - they cost enough. Honestly, RS needs to do away with their tech and go cartridge style/cable actuated - but they have an ego and refuse to give up - besides they make a fortune on service kits.
You may have just saved me some cash. I almost picked one up for the same project. I thought they had “solved” this issue with the vent. Had a LEV do this 6 years ago. But good luck with my other 2 levs now that I don’t pull on the seat.
Nice video! I would stick with the reverb and do the 600 hour service- it would make a great video and mean you have the skills and tools to do it again when needed!
Great video, thanks for making this. These things bring nothing but nightmares... They really need to improve the performance on these things. I have the reverb sag too and have to use my vent valve nearly every time I ride. If anyone has tips for me, please let me know.
If sag is not fixed by vent valve, then it's time for a rebuild because the IFP has been displaced too many times. RockShox hints towards around 5 uses before it won't have any effect. On C1 Reverbs, that can mean your IFP being stuck at the very top/head of the post. 600hr rebuild was the better plan.
Try to rotate the seat clamp. I also experienced it on my reverb, that not extending thing, and I also tried everything then finaly tried to rotate the seat clamp that the lock or bolt is on the right side and it works.
I love the dropper that came on my bike. perfect length, works a treat every time. Even a nice clunk at the end of the stroke (Not as nice as a Fox clunk though, but my wallet takes priority over my sense of aural aesthetic). Ohh.. its a Merida Expert TR dropper which i think is a rebrand of another well know one. You also inspired me to service mine while im waiting for my new chain to arrive in the post.
I’ve been watching your videos for a while now and absolutely love them. I’m looking into getting a nucleus or mythique like you did as they look like brilliant deals for the money. Sending some positive vibes from the uk
The reverb posts are sensitive to seat post clamp pressure and will fail to go up all the way if overtightened. Lightly tighten it in your frame and that should resolve the issue. Encountered the same thing with my reverb.
Preaching to the choir here, but these droppers are never without an issue. The hydraulics alone is one reason I have never even considered one. I had the OneUp V1 and it wasn't without issue either. I have Bontrager that came with my new Fuel and haven't had enough time in the saddle to critique it, but will most likely keep it until it becomes an issue and then probably back to OneUp.
I have a older version.. with the "pump" lever. It doesn't go up anymore/ it does but slowly and not every time. No bike service wants to work on it because it is complicated and even if they fix it it will break again.
My oneup post had this issue but I never fixed it because my bike was too small and it was a different diameter to my new one. I have a 200mm version of your post now and it’s been great. I’ve used it for almost 8000 km so many hours. Somehow the stock build lasted super long, as soon as I felt some stiction I rebuilt it all and it’s still going great. Definitely recommend smacking it full of grease.
I believe you added too much grease to the stanchion, and you probably also want to use a lighter weight grease like white lithium. I've made the same mistake with my reverb and it stuck in the middle. It ended up resolving itself after a few rides anyways.
Dump the Reverb. Over time the lever pistons will fail, the c clip and bottom bits of the post will rust and fatigue, and eventually the "600" hour rebuild will be commonplace once the seals begin to fail. Spend the cash on a reliable cable actuated dropper like a used PNW or Oneup. They have short as heck insertion that will let you run insane drop. Most frames with kinks in the seat tube are a pain to source short post insertion. Plus, the PNWs allow for passive travel adjustment, which is handy for frame-to-frame swappage. (Heck, even a 85$ KS Exaform dropper has shorter insertion than a Reverb.)
Brand X Ascend is surprisingly good, really easy to service here in the UK as all of the parts are easy to get as the company is owned by wiggle/chain reaction Only downside is its insertion depth 🤷 Two of my riding mates have reverbs and both have the sag problem and one you literally have to jump on with all your weight to get it to compress
@@nebnollock5198 Was doing a full service of a customers Reverb at the shop and the c clip was so rusted it failed and the post had shot down into the seat tube of his 5010CC. Entire post was toast, seals destroyed from the explosion Used 2 Brand X Ascend 2's, and I have to agree they are bulletproof and insane value. Their insertion lengths are... average I guess. But I like the value and the generic air cartridge that you can swap it out if you really wanted to after 2 years
Agreed. I had a 150mm TransX post, worked fine but there was no way to service it. After it broke I got a 180mm OneUp post, the insertion is shorter than the 150mm and it is so amazingly smooth. Can't see myself using anything else.
@@hansonwang2121 Transx droppers have an unreliable cartridge somehow. But the worst bit is they have a short actuator arm for the cable at the base of the post. Makes lever push/actuation very stiff even with a Wolftooth or aftermarket lever. It hurt my thumb when I had it on my old Siskiu.
I’ve seen this issue on so many reverb posts. Got one in the shop right now that I am sending back to SRAM under warranty 🤦🏼♂️ You couldn’t pay me enough to run a reverb post on my bike, or SRAM brakes for that matter due to their lever piston seal issues. In my experience, SRAM stands for “Seriously Rad At Marketing” (just not so good at build quality) 😂
Thanks for this video i had the same problem oil in the air chamber but i'll service it again and i know now the problem , because the oil cap wasn't sealed enough i think 😉
how tall are u. because i was looking for a 125mm dropper and i wanted to see if ur in the same height area as i am so i could see if i needed. more travel
Ehat did you do with the crank bros dropper on the ardor. Did you give it to your brother. Maybe send it to the captain if he wants it. You also said that was 125 mm and the ardor is a 17 inch frame so that bike was small for yoh
Evan I'm going to phoenix and vegad how do I withstand the desert heat. We do have hot 95 degree days here in ny but not often. I doubt I can handle 115 degree weather with a lot of sun
I saw a comment you made on your walrus account (the one called evan steinberg) that the mythique was small for you. Now that you got a longer travel dropper does it fit you better. Also I would not recommend sizing up to a large since Jared said vitus mythique runs big. But maybe thats the 29 version. Also ur brother is the same height as tick
Not sure how you managed to cure the sag without the full service. I’ve heard of temporary fixes where you compress it turn it upside down and extend it. The oil coming out of the air chamber is most likely from air and oil mixing as it gets past the IFP. The oil got into the air chamber then you released some of that oil which means the air chamber is now bigger than it should be. The IFP will be sitting in a different position which might be why it doesn’t fully return. I’m just guessing here btw.
@@EvansMTBSaga ah ok, so there must be still air in the oil side. But there is no sagging air spring effect. I had a reverb and after seeing how intimidating the service was I was very careful to not lift my bike by the saddle when compressed, easy to forget though. Think I had the b1 version. It stayed reliable in the short time I owned it.
So here's the thing.. according to Park Tool, you don't fix the sag.. you just NEVER pull up on the seatpost, at all costs. You grab your bike bike the frame and that's it. I bought a B1 for my little bro and fixed the sag, but as soon as you get into the habit of grabbing the bike by the seatpost, that's that, it lasts a while but then it gets the sag again. Also, about the post not going back up :) Make sure your while foam bushings are clean and you get a satisfactory amount of good silicone grease on the shaft, the post should perform fine for at least sooome time. Cheers for everything and everyone have a nice one ;)
@Dawson all frames these days should have a ad traight seat tube likje my Nicolai/Geometron G1. I have 185mm drop and can fit 200 if I want to, I don't really need that, but I have a rear light down there anyway. But this is great. Different suspension design, but still you can have same suspension design as brands do yet have straight seat tube but then they would have to weld in an extra part the rocker link goes on to, but treet could redesign the bikes to make more sense. There is no reason to have a kink Ed seat tube. Modern vikjes sjokk uld have long enough reach, steep seat tube angle, straight steerer, low standover height, slack head angle chainstay that grows with the size, for same balance point on each size.
@Dawson some bikes have a really bad case of this, also in smaller sizes this is more of an issue as the seat tube is shorter. I k now one of the reasons some bikes have kinked seat tube is to fit huge wheels, and still have super short chainstay. But really in most cases it does not make any sense.
Oh sorry I didn't understand. It's not a Vitus at all! I'm venturing out. I will probably make a community post on August 10th and then a video after a few more weeks.
Honestly I think you’re better off just getting a different post, these are so notoriously unreliable that you’ll just end up doing the same thing shortly, I’m shocked they have rebuild kits for specific intervals similar to suspension despite them failing well before those intervals all the time.
Keeps saying rebuild, but only did the equivalent of a lower leg service. "bUt wHy WouLd SraM dO ThIs". It doesn't go up all the way cause your seatclamp is too tight.
@@EvansMTBSaga yes it is, I can see the benefits of a dropper but I already spend all my time either riding or fixing my bikes.....can't add another component to the list of potential issues...
Good vid, but this dropper is a west of time and money. Even if you'd get it for free. I also have a bikeyoke reverb and it is insanely simple and reliable.
Gotta love it when a TH-camr shows their not so successful projects/ideas.👍 👍
It's definitely frustrating to fail a project and worrysome to post about it 😭😢
I have the SRAM RockShox C1 and got the sag issue in less than a year. My LBS won’t touch it. Thanks for the video. Considering scraping it, what a pain.
You could sell it! Might not get too much for it but definitely recoup like $50
It’s for sale if anyone interested, including the 1x remote and vent tool
sounds like your LBS is shiiiiiiiiit
I’ve had a reverb . When they are working they feel amazing; key word when they are working. Since then I now only buy the brand x ascend droppers. They have them from 125,150,170and 200mm . I’ve had the 150 and 170 and both have been flawless. I’ve never had to rebuild it either and honestly at only 135 bucks shipped to your door they are an excellent dropper . Sure it may weigh a little more than a high end one . But it functionality wise it’s the same.
The problem is those have pretty long insertion lengths. (Unrelated) are they made by xfusion?
@@adamneulander ive had no problem with the lengths, my Ragley marley is an 18' frame and my 170mm dropoper can go all the way flush. i think i could get a way with a 200mm one
My 150mm brand x ascend 2 broke 4 times within 9 months, the nylon cord which actuates the mechanism is very prone to snapping
Might be worth checking out a oneup dropper v2 if you can find one used. Pretty reliable and very short insertion lengths for the size. Plus you can easily reduce the travel if it's too long
Try to bleed the lever again. If it comes up fully when you press it hard enough that means it may have some air in the line.
This is 100% inside the post but if he almost over bleeds it so when the remote is in the slowest setting it still shoots up super fast it could get over the issue.
I found an easy fix for the Reverb, it's called the Brand-X Ascend. At this point I have 2 Brand-Xs and a One Up dropper. For my money I'll be buying the Brand-X every time, they are just a great deal and bulletproof. In fact the one I have had for 5 years and the only thing I've ever done to it is add air pressure once.
Great vid as always. The reverb is the nicest and most expensive paperweight I haver ever owned.
I’ve used a reverb.. when it works it’s phenomenal 🙌🏽 but even if it was free I wouldn’t take it.. kudos to you for making that attempt to make it work 👍🏽 love your content 🔥
Had the same problem with the extension on an older reverb. I loosened the seatpost clamp a bit, that fixed the problem for me
Same, hopefully this works for the video poster!
I just got a brand new bike with one of these POS installed, and after one ride and sitting for a few days the Reverb has the spongy sag. I could not freaking believe it when I went out to ride today. There is no way I’m going to rebuild what is basically a brand-new seat post.
Screw Rockshox and the team that designed this horrid POS. I have three other bikes with cable-actuated posts, and they work perfectly. What problem did Rockshox think they were fixing with a hydraulic system? Who the hell wants to bleed their damn seat post actuator? Why would a bike maker spec such an abortion of a product? It truly boggles the mind.
You are going big dude. every video is so high quality!
It's an expensive upgrade but I would go for the one up v2 dropper. It has a very short insertion depth and you can change the travel by just clicking in some shims. Also it's cable actuated and in my opinion that is the better less fault-prone option with a easier service.
sound like good advice. I'm just starting out on high end MTB's but replacing my Fox Transfer post cable took no time flat. Simplicity is key
$275 shipped was well worth it to swap out my brand new reverb before it had time to give me any problems. And I got 25mm more travel with the one up 150! There’s another video literally showing replacing the reverb with the one up! Haha
you defiantly motivated me thats for sure i tried to service my fork and it was not as bad as i thought
Oh man glad to hear it. That's the main reason I make the videos is for inspiration! Better than paying +$200 for someone to service!
Did you make sure the seat collar was to the right torque? I had an issue where it was too tight and it wouldn’t return correctly. Setting the right torque fixed it.
Congratulations on the 6k brother, I just got the Fork and the shifter🔥🔥🔥 thanks a lot for been so kind with me. Have a great day bro. Greetings from Mexico
Oh yeah man glad you got it! Hope you find some time to shred with the new parts!
Get a OneUp V2 dropper. The 180mm has the same insertion length as other company's 150mm posts. Servicing takes less than 10 minutes. Treat yourself to a quality post it's so refined and well made, worth every penny. At $200 it might cost the same to fix the reverb.
Haha it's funny, at the end I was thinking about bailing on the post and thought I should go with OneUp. I appreciate the suggestion!
@@EvansMTBSaga oneup and PNW have adjustable travel so you can also get them to fit perfectly when slammed
I have a Fox Doss on my bike, but i wanted to get a Rockshox Reverb to go with my fork, since i have a Rockshox fork. But people were telling me that the Reverb has issues, which i didn't believe. But after watching this, i'll just stay with my Fox Doss. Thank you for this video.
Yes it does. I just sold mine cuz I never got the issues fixed
I have a rockshox reverb and I had the same problem, you need to bleed it better. you need to turn the speed adjuster to slow and then bleed it. I think that will make the dropper go all the way up
Oh yeah I did that off camera and got more air bubbles out, but still didn't fix the problem. Thanks for the advice!!
At the remote there is a T25 for adjusting the speed, helped me to screw it nearly completely to + after bleeding.
Had a Reverb for the last 2 Years, recently switched to a PNW Loam Dropper. Hated the hydraulic actuation, bleeding after every reconnect, slow extension in the cold... Only at a decent outside temperature it worked fine.
My B1 Reverb needed a big service after it had already failed on that white spacer on the first seals only service.
It wasn't too much more expensive to get a OneupV2 and go from 150 to 180mm at the same time.
I nearly got the 200 and reduce the travel but worked out the 1mm I should have spare on the insertion was too close to call.
Turns out it would have fitted.
We should all start keeping an eye out for cheap, broken MTB parts (from name brands) for sale for Evan, I bet he can fix them all!
Haha please do! I love doing that content and don't want to do only bike upgrades. Thanks Isaac!!
try it evan!. 80 dollars may be worth. just try it and hope it will fix the issue
Thanks for the video. I just did a full rebleed on my Reverb, and it still has the sag. Guess this is what it needs. I think I'm calling it quits and switching to a cable actuated dropper
Wow, I had no idea this cost over $500. That's some hard core maintenance you tried. I'm having the same issue with my Fox Factory Transfer 125mm not coming all the way up. I haven't been very impressed with it. It came on my high end Pivot bike. The shop I bought it from took it off this past weekend to be sent in for warranty. Hopefully I'll be all set in a few weeks.
my bike came with a rock shock reverb stealth. first crash, it broke so I let lbs fix it. a month later I lifted the bike by the seat, and it no longer functions. I put in a pnw dropper, and the stealth is on the shelf. i got the bleed kit, but not even the slightest bit interested in hydraulic actuated toys that break a lot. . I've had good luck with all my cheap droppers, and kind of have to do more maintenance on the higher dollar ones
Haha dang isn't that weird? I'm not sure if there are other hydraulic actuated droppers, but maybe it's just not meant to be. I also have a PNW and have never serviced it and no problems lol! Glad to hear we had similar issues. You could probably sell that dropper with kit for $100!
Follow the RockShox C1 "vent" procedure if you have a C1. There's a video from Rockshox on this, but they don't tell you what parts actuate the venting if you don't have their tool. The secret (if you don't have their stupid plastic tool) is to use an undersized (eg, 8mm) socket on a ratchet, and use THAT to actuate the vent position. Don't take the valve cap off. You'll be pressing down on the cap itself relative to the seatpost (but you don't want to put pressure into post itself when trying to actuate the vent position -- push down with ratchet, pull up with fingers on the seatpost flange thing).
If for whatever reason you want to remove the cap to add air, use a 9mm. Spec is 300psi; mine had 200psi and works fine so i'm not touching it.
Mine started sagging with 350 miles on it so I suspect it'll get crappy again soon. But for now it's rideable.
I've had the mid travel stop on my reverb that's brand new and it was just because my seat post collar was too tight, try loosening that.
You have to bleed it again and try to pull a better vacuum. Also make sure you “slow it down”. To the right of the bleed port on the lever. Slow it down when bleeding and then speed it back up once you are finished.
do you guys get a little squish overall or rock solid?
I've had similar issues with my specialized comand dropper, not sure if the issue is the same as yours but spray some silicone spray on the stanchion and cycle it through a few times, should "lube" everything up.
always enjoying your videos
If you have sag - a bleed or basic service kit is no good - it needs a complete rebuild - one of the o-rings (or IFP) is crap and you'll never know which, so you replace them all. The key is the bleed in the seat post itself - removal of excess fluid after you fill it up flush. It's worth it - they cost enough. Honestly, RS needs to do away with their tech and go cartridge style/cable actuated - but they have an ego and refuse to give up - besides they make a fortune on service kits.
You may have just saved me some cash. I almost picked one up for the same project. I thought they had “solved” this issue with the vent. Had a LEV do this 6 years ago. But good luck with my other 2 levs now that I don’t pull on the seat.
Nice video!
I would stick with the reverb and do the 600 hour service- it would make a great video and mean you have the skills and tools to do it again when needed!
Great video, thanks for making this. These things bring nothing but nightmares... They really need to improve the performance on these things. I have the reverb sag too and have to use my vent valve nearly every time I ride. If anyone has tips for me, please let me know.
If sag is not fixed by vent valve, then it's time for a rebuild because the IFP has been displaced too many times. RockShox hints towards around 5 uses before it won't have any effect. On C1 Reverbs, that can mean your IFP being stuck at the very top/head of the post. 600hr rebuild was the better plan.
Are you supposed to let air out of the vent valve then? I thought that was for pumping it up?
Haven't watched yet(I'm at work). But I know it will be another absolute banger!
Thanks for the early comment!!
Try to rotate the seat clamp. I also experienced it on my reverb, that not extending thing, and I also tried everything then finaly tried to rotate the seat clamp that the lock or bolt is on the right side and it works.
I love the dropper that came on my bike. perfect length, works a treat every time. Even a nice clunk at the end of the stroke (Not as nice as a Fox clunk though, but my wallet takes priority over my sense of aural aesthetic). Ohh.. its a Merida Expert TR dropper which i think is a rebrand of another well know one.
You also inspired me to service mine while im waiting for my new chain to arrive in the post.
I’ve been watching your videos for a while now and absolutely love them. I’m looking into getting a nucleus or mythique like you did as they look like brilliant deals for the money.
Sending some positive vibes from the uk
The reverb posts are sensitive to seat post clamp pressure and will fail to go up all the way if overtightened. Lightly tighten it in your frame and that should resolve the issue. Encountered the same thing with my reverb.
Haha the Reverb has been so touchy over the years 😂 I'll try it out. I've rode with it a couple of times now and it feels great to be honest
Cable tie around the brass pins for reassembly.
Awesome video I may get a dropper I have internal routing any cheap dropper recommendations
It's tough because a lot of droppers at out of stock. I'd search for a used one on Pinkbike
Ok thanks
Preaching to the choir here, but these droppers are never without an issue. The hydraulics alone is one reason I have never even considered one. I had the OneUp V1 and it wasn't without issue either. I have Bontrager that came with my new Fuel and haven't had enough time in the saddle to critique it, but will most likely keep it until it becomes an issue and then probably back to OneUp.
I have a older version.. with the "pump" lever. It doesn't go up anymore/ it does but slowly and not every time. No bike service wants to work on it because it is complicated and even if they fix it it will break again.
My oneup post had this issue but I never fixed it because my bike was too small and it was a different diameter to my new one. I have a 200mm version of your post now and it’s been great. I’ve used it for almost 8000 km so many hours. Somehow the stock build lasted super long, as soon as I felt some stiction I rebuilt it all and it’s still going great. Definitely recommend smacking it full of grease.
I believe you added too much grease to the stanchion, and you probably also want to use a lighter weight grease like white lithium. I've made the same mistake with my reverb and it stuck in the middle. It ended up resolving itself after a few rides anyways.
Haha my sag is worse than when I freshly serviced it. Luckily I don't mind some squish, people pay big money for suspension seat posts
Dump the Reverb. Over time the lever pistons will fail, the c clip and bottom bits of the post will rust and fatigue, and eventually the "600" hour rebuild will be commonplace once the seals begin to fail. Spend the cash on a reliable cable actuated dropper like a used PNW or Oneup. They have short as heck insertion that will let you run insane drop. Most frames with kinks in the seat tube are a pain to source short post insertion. Plus, the PNWs allow for passive travel adjustment, which is handy for frame-to-frame swappage.
(Heck, even a 85$ KS Exaform dropper has shorter insertion than a Reverb.)
Brand X Ascend is surprisingly good, really easy to service here in the UK as all of the parts are easy to get as the company is owned by wiggle/chain reaction
Only downside is its insertion depth 🤷
Two of my riding mates have reverbs and both have the sag problem and one you literally have to jump on with all your weight to get it to compress
@@nebnollock5198 Was doing a full service of a customers Reverb at the shop and the c clip was so rusted it failed and the post had shot down into the seat tube of his 5010CC. Entire post was toast, seals destroyed from the explosion
Used 2 Brand X Ascend 2's, and I have to agree they are bulletproof and insane value. Their insertion lengths are... average I guess. But I like the value and the generic air cartridge that you can swap it out if you really wanted to after 2 years
Agreed. I had a 150mm TransX post, worked fine but there was no way to service it. After it broke I got a 180mm OneUp post, the insertion is shorter than the 150mm and it is so amazingly smooth. Can't see myself using anything else.
@@hansonwang2121
Transx droppers have an unreliable cartridge somehow. But the worst bit is they have a short actuator arm for the cable at the base of the post. Makes lever push/actuation very stiff even with a Wolftooth or aftermarket lever. It hurt my thumb when I had it on my old Siskiu.
@@AORNova much smoother than my ks lev on my hardtail tbh which is twice as expensive
I. Exited to see what bike you get!
I’ve seen this issue on so many reverb posts. Got one in the shop right now that I am sending back to SRAM under warranty 🤦🏼♂️ You couldn’t pay me enough to run a reverb post on my bike, or SRAM brakes for that matter due to their lever piston seal issues. In my experience, SRAM stands for “Seriously Rad At Marketing” (just not so good at build quality) 😂
When this happened to mine I full on cut the cable, ripped it through the frame, and bought a PNW Loam Dropper.
Hahhaha I know that kind of frustration! But dude hydraulic fluid probably went everywhere!!! Lmao!!
@@EvansMTBSaga oh you best believe it did. Also didn’t care because I was done with the reverb probs.
I'm here thanks to the channel (For ever MTB)
Thanks for the new sub! He's a great guy
+1 on universal cycles. No one in the world had a gx eagle chain it seemed. They showed a bunch,Which warehouse and it shipped next day.
thanks for sharing. I've got same issue. you convinced me its for a new one for me.
Cool.
But this v's a Brand X dropper?
i got a fox transfer post off eBay for 150$ works like a charm! damn sorry you had to go through this
Dang I would love a Kashima dropper!!!!! Now I will keep a look out
get you a pair of vise grips. I am learning from every video I watch. I Started Riding Mountain Bikes This year January 1 2021.
Friend from For Ever Mtb you just won a new subscriber.
In good for those great gifts, may your friend channel continue to grow.
Thanks for the new sub! He's a great guy and been around since the start
I have had two reverbs which never worked fully after many services. I actively avoid them 😆
Hey Evan - what is that crescent wrench adapter you used on your torque wrench?
I think they are called crowsfeet. Not sure the brand though
Thanks for this video i had the same problem oil in the air chamber but i'll service it again and i know now the problem , because the oil cap wasn't sealed enough i think 😉
how tall are u. because i was looking for a 125mm dropper and i wanted to see if ur in the same height area as i am so i could see if i needed. more travel
Ehat did you do with the crank bros dropper on the ardor. Did you give it to your brother. Maybe send it to the captain if he wants it. You also said that was 125 mm and the ardor is a 17 inch frame so that bike was small for yoh
Yup that went to my brother! He's a few inches shorter than me (5'5") so it fit him well
@@EvansMTBSaga same height as tick. That 17 inch frame would be perfect for him.
Should have got a one up dropper the cheap with heaps of travel, and work awesome
Evan I'm going to phoenix and vegad how do I withstand the desert heat. We do have hot 95 degree days here in ny but not often. I doubt I can handle 115 degree weather with a lot of sun
Haha nice Eugene what are you coming here for? As for the heat, I just try to avoid it and do what I need early in the morning or at night
@@EvansMTBSaga cool
@@EvansMTBSaga im going hiking and also to eat tacos and in and out lmao
@@EvansMTBSaga yea thats what we are planning on doing.
That's cool man. Some great spots in Phoenix and Vegas. Taco Guild in Phoenix has great tacos and a cool building
I saw a comment you made on your walrus account (the one called evan steinberg) that the mythique was small for you. Now that you got a longer travel dropper does it fit you better. Also I would not recommend sizing up to a large since Jared said vitus mythique runs big. But maybe thats the 29 version. Also ur brother is the same height as tick
Oh This is Eugene Krabs. You changed your profile name and picture!
I think you should get the 600 hour service kit, can also make another great video on it!
Haha now you know the thinking behind making a TH-cam videos!
@@EvansMTBSaga yeah haha, would be sick once’s fixed too!
Do u have and extra dp dropper post for and axum
Not sure how you managed to cure the sag without the full service. I’ve heard of temporary fixes where you compress it turn it upside down and extend it. The oil coming out of the air chamber is most likely from air and oil mixing as it gets past the IFP. The oil got into the air chamber then you released some of that oil which means the air chamber is now bigger than it should be. The IFP will be sitting in a different position which might be why it doesn’t fully return. I’m just guessing here btw.
I know right. I agree about the air in the oil chamber. If I shake the dropper, I can hear the fluid slush around 😩 haha
@@EvansMTBSaga ah ok, so there must be still air in the oil side. But there is no sagging air spring effect. I had a reverb and after seeing how intimidating the service was I was very careful to not lift my bike by the saddle when compressed, easy to forget though. Think I had the b1 version. It stayed reliable in the short time I owned it.
I stick to cable actuated, so much easier to deal with!
Better option: PNW Loam dropper post. Love mine.
this exact same thing happened to me and the problem was i use the wrong grease and to much grease
Nice, getting hands dirty is always good.
Idk, I say don't spend then $80 yet, try it on the new bike coming 1st
So here's the thing.. according to Park Tool, you don't fix the sag.. you just NEVER pull up on the seatpost, at all costs. You grab your bike bike the frame and that's it.
I bought a B1 for my little bro and fixed the sag, but as soon as you get into the habit of grabbing the bike by the seatpost, that's that, it lasts a while but then it gets the sag again.
Also, about the post not going back up :) Make sure your while foam bushings are clean and you get a satisfactory amount of good silicone grease on the shaft, the post should perform fine for at least sooome time.
Cheers for everything and everyone have a nice one ;)
I am not a fan of kinked seat tube due to shorter insertion depth.
@Dawson all frames these days should have a ad traight seat tube likje my Nicolai/Geometron G1. I have 185mm drop and can fit 200 if I want to, I don't really need that, but I have a rear light down there anyway. But this is great. Different suspension design, but still you can have same suspension design as brands do yet have straight seat tube but then they would have to weld in an extra part the rocker link goes on to, but treet could redesign the bikes to make more sense.
There is no reason to have a kink Ed seat tube. Modern vikjes sjokk uld have long enough reach, steep seat tube angle, straight steerer, low standover height, slack head angle chainstay that grows with the size, for same balance point on each size.
@Dawson some bikes have a really bad case of this, also in smaller sizes this is more of an issue as the seat tube is shorter.
I k now one of the reasons some bikes have kinked seat tube is to fit huge wheels, and still have super short chainstay. But really in most cases it does not make any sense.
Hey, rub a q tip of dumonde freehub oil and lube the lower seal, it'll pop
You should have gotten a cable actuated dropper
How do u get such good deals.
Just scouring the internet every day pretty much!
maybe after some uses the dropper post will loosen up
why no cable dropper?
I just wanted to try out the hydraulic activated dropper. Really didn't make a difference and I'm going back to cable.
@@EvansMTBSaga Ok fair enough
is that new bike is vitus sentier ???
Nope it's my same ol Mythique
@@EvansMTBSaga im talking this evan 7:39
Oh sorry I didn't understand. It's not a Vitus at all! I'm venturing out. I will probably make a community post on August 10th and then a video after a few more weeks.
@@EvansMTBSaga im so stoked to see that bike ! it will be a big surprise
Honestly I think you’re better off just getting a different post, these are so notoriously unreliable that you’ll just end up doing the same thing shortly, I’m shocked they have rebuild kits for specific intervals similar to suspension despite them failing well before those intervals all the time.
10k by the end of the year????
It's possible! Thanks for the support!
For sure
i would suggest that you keep it for the next build and maybe buy the 600 hour kit cause more video's means more views hahaha
and man you got a good deal
They still make those?
Oh definitely. I don't think rockshox would stop
Should’ve just went with a one up dropper and saved yourself the clearance issue as well as the problems with reliability😅
Haha oh man I've definitely heard that from a few people. I might sell this Reverb and do just that. Thanks!
Why not just use the vent valve?
Keeps saying rebuild, but only did the equivalent of a lower leg service. "bUt wHy WouLd SraM dO ThIs".
It doesn't go up all the way cause your seatclamp is too tight.
oh well, old video. check out my newer stuff, I've learned a lot since
7:10 mythic looks way to small for you. I think you got a size small by accident
Nice video!!
Just need to but some orings, IFP and fluid.
This is why I don't bother with a dropper, but then I ride mostly XC
I also ride mainly XC and have been curious what it's like to ride with no dropper. Is your seat in the highest position optimized for pedaling?
@@EvansMTBSaga yes it is, I can see the benefits of a dropper but I already spend all my time either riding or fixing my bikes.....can't add another component to the list of potential issues...
@@DAZLIN6 most dropper posts are super reliable but the rockshox is an exception as they went with hydraulic actuation to be "different"
You can probably just pump the reverb up to like 3000 psi, and then its fixed. Jk, just pump it up a bit more.
I did this to mine and it made a huge difference.
The problem is I have to take it out and do it every couple of weeks.
@@vinylholicsanonymous3871 but hey, better than spending money on a full rebuild or a new dropper ;)
Maybe a bit late but try loosening up the collar a bit lmao
Butter suspension, reverb rebuild :
th-cam.com/video/6wAxwsiOiDM/w-d-xo.html
Unfortunately not the C1 model
@@EvansMTBSaga
Sorry it didn’t helped you.
Maybe he can help you solve your problem…
Hydraulic dropper. Wow
How to fix reverb: throw it in the trash. 😂
I had one…worst post I’ve ever come across.
Haha I definitely thought about that a few times with this video. The concept is definitely cool. May have to get a OneUp like you!
The reason it’s stoping is bc the clamp is to tight
I've been hearing that a lot! I ended up selling it and the guy got it working haha
@@EvansMTBSaga that’s what I had to do with mine
Droppers have to be one of the most troublesome products ever introduced to mountain biking
you could just buy a new one?
WOW that first minute or so was hard to watch. Improper usage of tools, poor clamping procedures,,, ALL of it!
Good vid, but this dropper is a west of time and money. Even if you'd get it for free. I also have a bikeyoke reverb and it is insanely simple and reliable.