Thanks to your video I have fixed my Reverb. I put too much oil pressure(during bleeding procedure) in the line and valve was permanently open... Thank you!
I've just done this with mine, and it totally worked! One small extra step was, when topping up the oil, I agitated the inside shaft with a thin stick, so all air bubbles come out. There was actually a lot of air. Anyway, thanks for this neat tutorial!
I can confirm lifting up the bike from the seat when the dropper is down is my main cause why my stealth dropper is squishy at the top. I have become accustomed to the squish and really dont notice it while on a ride. The squish on mine is maybe 10 - 15 mm of play. Ive made a habit of picking up the bike by the frame.
Omg what a great video and what a shtty dropper to put on a santa cruz hightower. Have the same problem with my 6mo steath. Swapping it out with a tranx. Have been running tranx on my 6yr Norco sight and it's never had an issue, works as well 6yrs later as day 1. Never liked rock shox products and the dropper is the perfect example. Thank you for the informative video, convincing us to ditch the RS dropper.
I put mine on an older bike and it still works. Definitely better options available, but for those who have got one this helps people get more life out of them without spending money. Thanks for watching.
Excellent video! This worked really well for me. Took my squish from 10 mm down to 2 mm. We will see if that lasts. Definitely didn't want to throw out an otherwise good piece of gear! Newer Reverbs have a vent tool to fulfill this purpose. Mine is a Stealth and I did it without any special tools. Made a fluid measuring device of small tube to suck out extra fluid with its length based on feeling down to the "shelf" level at the bottom of the poppet valve. Note: after the procedure my dropper wouldn't go down at all until I opened the post speed adjustment up from slowest. Worked right away, although I did the remote bleed twice and was ready to buy a new dropper post until I figured this out. Can't remember if you mentioned it in the video. Thanks again! 🙂
@bobcosterton6430 Glad it helped you. I do cover bleeding the button circuit at 10:15 and it being a separate bleed, but it is a bit tedious. To keep it from getting air in the dropper portion, try not to lift the bike by the seat. That can create low pressure in the fluid side allowing higher pressure air to get past the IFP and cause the squishy post again.
@@adventuresinenginerding You're description was excellent and complete. I just couldn't move my seat after the bleed because the speed adjustment was moved to slow. Increasing the speed made it work. And I am trying to not lift the bike by the seat! Sometimes hard to do / resist! Thanks again and cheers!
Cable actuator is simpler and easier to adjust / fix. I probably would not seek out a hydraulic actuated Reverb knowing what I know now. I have a KS Lev on one bike that is pretty good. Lots of good options available.
Hi good video i have a problem with the Rockshox reverb and i Did the same like a video but now a press the rock shock bottom and the reverb don’t go down i press down very hard but don’t go down
The actuator is a separate hydraulic system. It must be bled separately. Make sure the adjuster on the button is loosened all the way, bleed the poppet, hose, & button actuator thoroughly. There is a bleed port on the post next to the hose and one on the actuator button. Push fluid back and forth until no bubbles. Then you'll likely have to tighten the adjuster some to make the actuator work properly. Good luck.
What about the case where there isn't just 1-2cm of play, but the post will sink all the way down when I sit on it? Is that a different issue? Thanks for posting this video - big help.
You may have a bad seal / o-ring. You may want to do the full rebuild with a new kit. I had done that more than a year before this video, so it was less likely to be worn out rubber seals. Good luck, thanks for watching.
Thanks. I'm gonna have to plead ignorance on that dropper post. Obviously it would not have either a cable or remote hydraulic actuator. There will be an internal valve controlled electronically. It may have a similar hydraulic internal mechanism. Some posts use a replaceable cartridge - not user serviceable. They usually have a pretty good manual available online. Start there. Good luck.
Hi, i've done every steps and everything went good. No more squishing, but now my dropper doesn't go down at all. Do you know what could have cause that et any clue to fix that? Thank you!
The button actuator is a separate hydraulic system. You have to bleed that separately after doing the air removal in the main shock. This is shown in the video at 10:15. Push fluid back and forth until no bubbles come out either end. Check for leaks when you push the button. You probably still have air in that part, but it is the easier side to bleed. Once you are done bleeding, you may need to tighten the button adjuster to get it to actuate more easily. Good luck.
Turned my bike over. Pushed and held actuator in then Pushed bike down to compress post. Turned bike over raised seat and sag was gone. Not sure how long it'll last.
Definitely a good trail side fix. The air will slowly work its way back into the wrong side of the hydraulic system. That air needs to be removed for for a "permanent" fix.
Omg what a great video and what a shtty dropper to put on a santa cruz hightower. Have the same problem with my 6mo steath. Swapping it out with a tranx. Have been running tranx on my 6yr Norco sight and it's never had an issue, works as well 6yrs later as day 1. Never liked rock shox products and the dropper is the perfect example. Thank you for the informative video, convincing us to ditch the RS dropper
I'll assume you are referring to a bike dropper post. Sounds like not enough air pressure. Or It could be friction from bad orings. If someone put in the wrong fluid it can damage them. Good luck, thanks for watching.
@@adventuresinenginerding yes, rockshox reverb stealth. I will buy a shock pump to see if it has the correct pressure. The problem is that no service in my city wants to work anymore on these because of their poor reliability, we fix it now, soon will break again.
@@silviu4365 That's why I made the vid. Almost anything can be fixed, but effort, price & skill set decide if it is worthwhile. Hopefully you can get yours going again.
just check it's not something simple.... like the seat post being over tightened, that's causing it to be slow to rise. Slacken it off a bit, and see it the problem persists.
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Thanks to your video I have fixed my Reverb. I put too much oil pressure(during bleeding procedure) in the line and valve was permanently open... Thank you!
Definitely working. Thanks soo much! Hello from Czech Republic 😁
Great video and thanks for taking the time to give back to the sagging Reverb community!
I've just done this with mine, and it totally worked! One small extra step was, when topping up the oil, I agitated the inside shaft with a thin stick, so all air bubbles come out. There was actually a lot of air.
Anyway, thanks for this neat tutorial!
Glad it helped. Good tip!
Thank you for making this video and sharing your ideas. I like this type of fix so I'm going to try it. Thanks
Perfect Video. It worked very well. Thanks and greetz from Cologne🤙
I can confirm lifting up the bike from the seat when the dropper is down is my main cause why my stealth dropper is squishy at the top. I have become accustomed to the squish and really dont notice it while on a ride. The squish on mine is maybe 10 - 15 mm of play. Ive made a habit of picking up the bike by the frame.
Omg what a great video and what a shtty dropper to put on a santa cruz hightower.
Have the same problem with my 6mo steath. Swapping it out with a tranx. Have been running tranx on my 6yr Norco sight and it's never had an issue, works as well 6yrs later as day 1. Never liked rock shox products and the dropper is the perfect example. Thank you for the informative video, convincing us to ditch the RS dropper.
I put mine on an older bike and it still works. Definitely better options available, but for those who have got one this helps people get more life out of them without spending money. Thanks for watching.
Awesome video! Thank you! Going to try this on the weekend to fix mine.
Thanks for the interesting video. My old reverb stealth might live to fight another day :-).
I'll certainly give this a go.
So much trouble these posts, quicker and easier for me to buy a better lightly used 2nd hand post that doesn’t require maintenance every 5 seconds.
Excellent video! This worked really well for me. Took my squish from 10 mm down to 2 mm. We will see if that lasts. Definitely didn't want to throw out an otherwise good piece of gear!
Newer Reverbs have a vent tool to fulfill this purpose.
Mine is a Stealth and I did it without any special tools. Made a fluid measuring device of small tube to suck out extra fluid with its length based on feeling down to the "shelf" level at the bottom of the poppet valve.
Note: after the procedure my dropper wouldn't go down at all until I opened the post speed adjustment up from slowest. Worked right away, although I did the remote bleed twice and was ready to buy a new dropper post until I figured this out. Can't remember if you mentioned it in the video. Thanks again! 🙂
@bobcosterton6430 Glad it helped you. I do cover bleeding the button circuit at 10:15 and it being a separate bleed, but it is a bit tedious.
To keep it from getting air in the dropper portion, try not to lift the bike by the seat. That can create low pressure in the fluid side allowing higher pressure air to get past the IFP and cause the squishy post again.
@@adventuresinenginerding You're description was excellent and complete. I just couldn't move my seat after the bleed because the speed adjustment was moved to slow. Increasing the speed made it work. And I am trying to not lift the bike by the seat! Sometimes hard to do / resist! Thanks again and cheers!
normal inside is 2,5W Oil. Me idea is change oil to a more viscous 5W and replacement of seals on IFP or piston.
The more I look into this dropper , the more I lean towards a cable dropper. It looks like a royal hassle. What’s the benefit??
Cable actuator is simpler and easier to adjust / fix. I probably would not seek out a hydraulic actuated Reverb knowing what I know now. I have a KS Lev on one bike that is pretty good. Lots of good options available.
That's just built in suspension for your Heiny
Hi good video i have a problem with the Rockshox reverb and i Did the same like a video but now a press the rock shock bottom and the reverb don’t go down i press down very hard but don’t go down
The actuator is a separate hydraulic system. It must be bled separately. Make sure the adjuster on the button is loosened all the way, bleed the poppet, hose, & button actuator thoroughly. There is a bleed port on the post next to the hose and one on the actuator button. Push fluid back and forth until no bubbles. Then you'll likely have to tighten the adjuster some to make the actuator work properly. Good luck.
What about the case where there isn't just 1-2cm of play, but the post will sink all the way down when I sit on it? Is that a different issue? Thanks for posting this video - big help.
You may have a bad seal / o-ring. You may want to do the full rebuild with a new kit. I had done that more than a year before this video, so it was less likely to be worn out rubber seals. Good luck, thanks for watching.
Great video ! This procedure can be applied to a AXS electronic wireless version dropper post ?
Thanks. I'm gonna have to plead ignorance on that dropper post. Obviously it would not have either a cable or remote hydraulic actuator. There will be an internal valve controlled electronically. It may have a similar hydraulic internal mechanism. Some posts use a replaceable cartridge - not user serviceable. They usually have a pretty good manual available online. Start there. Good luck.
Hi, i've done every steps and everything went good. No more squishing, but now my dropper doesn't go down at all. Do you know what could have cause that et any clue to fix that? Thank you!
The button actuator is a separate hydraulic system. You have to bleed that separately after doing the air removal in the main shock. This is shown in the video at 10:15. Push fluid back and forth until no bubbles come out either end. Check for leaks when you push the button. You probably still have air in that part, but it is the easier side to bleed. Once you are done bleeding, you may need to tighten the button adjuster to get it to actuate more easily. Good luck.
@@adventuresinenginerdingI'll try that. Thank you for your answer!
Turned my bike over. Pushed and held actuator in then Pushed bike down to compress post. Turned bike over raised seat and sag was gone. Not sure how long it'll last.
Definitely a good trail side fix. The air will slowly work its way back into the wrong side of the hydraulic system. That air needs to be removed for for a "permanent" fix.
Omg what a great video and what a shtty dropper to put on a santa cruz hightower.
Have the same problem with my 6mo steath. Swapping it out with a tranx. Have been running tranx on my 6yr Norco sight and it's never had an issue, works as well 6yrs later as day 1. Never liked rock shox products and the dropper is the perfect example. Thank you for the informative video, convincing us to ditch the RS dropper
what do you think it is the problem? i have the stealth version and now it goes up very slowly or it doesnt go up at all
sometimes it goes up slow and sometimes it doesnt go at all
I'll assume you are referring to a bike dropper post. Sounds like not enough air pressure. Or It could be friction from bad orings. If someone put in the wrong fluid it can damage them. Good luck, thanks for watching.
@@adventuresinenginerding yes, rockshox reverb stealth. I will buy a shock pump to see if it has the correct pressure. The problem is that no service in my city wants to work anymore on these because of their poor reliability, we fix it now, soon will break again.
@@silviu4365 That's why I made the vid. Almost anything can be fixed, but effort, price & skill set decide if it is worthwhile. Hopefully you can get yours going again.
just check it's not something simple.... like the seat post being over tightened, that's causing it to be slow to rise. Slacken it off a bit, and see it the problem persists.