Thanks so much for making this video! I’m going to use this method for preserving the rust, worn paint, and tarnished brass, patina on a 60s steamer trunk I recently picked up!!
Hey Hooigan. You had a nice truck to start with but now that you put that Penetrol Flood all over it, you now have a great looking truck. Nice job. Thanks for sharing.🍁👍👍
Flood Penetrol also works great on old Snap-on, Matco, Craftsman tool boxes. I buy ratty old boxes, sand or wire brush the flaky crap off, then use Penetrol. Works great.
I really like the glossy version before it dries. I can understand how that might turn off some other people, but it just does something for me. "To each, his own", I suppose. Nice job.
Flood Penetrol is the sh*t. I use it to bring back plastics to life, to make old galvanized boat trailers look cool and new. Last summer, I found a Portacool Swampcooler that'd been left out in the desert for 3 years. It now looks new and garage kept. Accidentally got some drops on my garage floor...and those are gonna be there long after I leave this earth...so be careful! Great video btw
I love the Flood Penetrol look on patina. I’ve done 3 trucks now. I use a car wash sponge cut down in small pieces. I’m going to experiment with an enamel based hardener on the next one. 👍
Currently building a 77 Shovelhead lowrider with a patina job. Thanks for the awesome tip with the Flood. I was planning on BLO but this looks great. I will totally be using this.
Flood works great for restoring tools as well. At work I have a set of husky pliers that started to rust after a few weeks of using them daily. After 2 years of buildup, I used krud kutter to remove the rust, just brushed it on and you can use a wire brush to scrape off all the rust, I then rinsed off the krud kutter and applied flood with just a cheap bristle brush. It’s been about 4 months, daily use with my pliers and they still look great. Really want to use it on the rest of my tools, but hard to find time when I use them everyday. Going to use them on my black husky sockets next which have developed some specs of rust. Might use this on my 89 bronco as well, but not sure if I wantt get a new paint job or not.
Penetrol does contain Boiled Linseed Oil, in fact it is about 1/2 BLO. FYI: Flood Penetrol Copycat recipe (Based on use and SDS info): (measurements by weight, but by volume will be close to the same) 1 part Naphtha, 1 Part Boiled Linseed Oil Yes, there are a lot of other little bits of stuff in there like ethylbenzene, but those are not the primary ingredients we are concerned about for use in this kind of project (patina protector). This is not a clear coat in that such a term is reserved for "paints" that are clear. Penetrol's "helps adhesion" statements on the bottle/can refer to the fact the BLO in Penetrol has been used in paints for centuries (barn paint is basically Linseed oil and rust powder). The other primary ingredient, Naphtha is a solvent/thinner that aids in penetration (thus the name Penetr-ol) making the pain surface, be it bare, primer, or prior paint, 'sticky' and more willing to accept a new finish to be applied. Essentially, the Naphtha helps the BLO penetrate deeper into the existing rust and finishes, removes or pseudo-converts oxidized paints and rust, and inhibits the oxidization of paint and metals going forward. Penetrol will NOT create a shield like paint or a "clear coat" paint, but will work very well, as long as rubbed or painted on regularly, depending upon how much you wish to suspend the continuing development of your patina finish (more applications = less new rust),usually about 1-3 applications or more per year depending on environment, storage of vehicle, etc. (more exposure and driving = Penetrol benefits wear out faster.) God bless.
I'm testing it on my 67 silver streak camp trailer. It's all aluminum and oxidized looking milky. I've tries a ton of stuff to make it look like new, penetrol is looking pretty good. Thanks
Really hoping you make that video about the rot spot you mentioned. I just bought a 62 VW single cab that’s crusty and wanna see your thoughts on the rot spots. Also gonna use your liquid to pop the turkis patina. Thanks for putting vids together
10:50. I suppose spray wax might temporarily make it glossy if you wanted to. I don’t know. Weighing my options for my 1987 Ford Bronco. The way the painted faded when it was in Florida 25+ years ago and then has some Ohio rust mixed in… I’m leaning towards preserving this look. The truck has a long history in the family.
A friend 0f mine said it took your truck 60 years to look like yours ,why in hll do you want to make it look like a brand new truck.you can't make that patina or rust or rust holes ,just drive it till the wheels fall off.love your video .my 67 c 10 has five different colors,iam going to spray ur product after I check an area that I spray.
Not bashing him at all but thought it was funny. I really don't think he cares lol. Great video and I'm going to try it out. I have a 78 C10 aka Scamp and going to sand down the body(which is on my channel) and some what make a patina. Keep up the videos
Penetrol is just Boiled linseed oil with a little solvent in it. You can make the same exact stuff by adding a little mineral spirits to boiled linseed oil. However there are problems with both of those. The problem with boiled linseed oil/penetrol is that: 1. It isn't waterproof (so humidity still gets through it). and 2. It is extremely hard to remove if you dont like it on your vehicle. So when you layer it on every 3-6 months you are making a big build up of coating and how are you gonn get that off when you been doing that for years? the only way is sanding and chiseling. Theres a much better old farmers product called "Wellers". It was produced back in the 1940s for the steel parts of WWII planes. The aluminum didnt rust but to preserve the steel bolts and wheels etc they used Wellers. It uses some lab produced formulation of oils and polymers to block all the humidity from coming through onto the steel. It is also a wipe on thing like BLO (boiled linseed oil) / penetrol but with much better results and better at patina locking in. The bottle I got has lasted forever too. I wouldn't let yellowing BLO/penetrol near my ride unless i wanted a gummy mess I couldn't remove. you'll noticed that buildup/yellowing over time. If you only have one layer on now I'd remove it before it cures for years (use mineral spiritrs or rubbing alcohol to get a young layer off) and then get that Wellers stuff I mention.
I made a solution for my last truck with hydrogen peroxide, white vinegar, and salt. And it will instantly flash rust. More coats, the heavier the rust.
Its main ingredient is boiled linseed oil. The plus is the additives, which level the oil and help it dry out quicker. Think of it like a third step- 1- linseed oil (which never seems to dry) 2- boiled linseed oil (which dries after a while) and now 3- Penetrol which dries much quicker and levels out much more.
i used it to protect old nicely patina and pinstriped steel fold out box i use for sign writing its a 1960s first aid box ,enamel paints and solvents dont do well with acrylic clear coat could of used varnish but this flood is nice satin finish and oil based
Thanks so much for making this video! I’m going to use this method for preserving the rust, worn paint, and tarnished brass, patina on a 60s steamer trunk I recently picked up!!
Atleast the guy says at the beginning -- It's his business and if you don't like it no need to slam him for it! Good DISCLAIMER!
Hey man. I love your channel! Thanks for checking mine out
Hey Hooigan. You had a nice truck to start with but now that you put that Penetrol Flood all over it, you now have a great looking truck. Nice job. Thanks for sharing.🍁👍👍
Flood Penetrol also works great on old Snap-on, Matco, Craftsman tool boxes. I buy ratty old boxes, sand or wire brush the flaky crap off, then use Penetrol. Works great.
I really like the glossy version before it dries. I can understand how that might turn off some other people, but it just does something for me.
"To each, his own", I suppose.
Nice job.
3:42 had to kick start that inhalant high😂 Gorgeous Badass truck btw!!
Flood Penetrol is the sh*t. I use it to bring back plastics to life, to make old galvanized boat trailers look cool and new. Last summer, I found a Portacool Swampcooler that'd been left out in the desert for 3 years. It now looks new and garage kept. Accidentally got some drops on my garage floor...and those are gonna be there long after I leave this earth...so be careful! Great video btw
I love the Flood Penetrol look on patina. I’ve done 3 trucks now. I use a car wash sponge cut down in small pieces. I’m going to experiment with an enamel based hardener on the next one. 👍
Did the hardener work?
@@tim_4634 It has held up really well but in all fairness it sits in the garage a lot too.
Had my 56 painted back in the 90s, been parked ever since, too nice to drive now, your prolly doing the right thing.
They are never too nice to drive. Drive it and enjoy.
Currently building a 77 Shovelhead lowrider with a patina job. Thanks for the awesome tip with the Flood. I was planning on BLO but this looks great. I will totally be using this.
Flood works great for restoring tools as well. At work I have a set of husky pliers that started to rust after a few weeks of using them daily. After 2 years of buildup, I used krud kutter to remove the rust, just brushed it on and you can use a wire brush to scrape off all the rust, I then rinsed off the krud kutter and applied flood with just a cheap bristle brush. It’s been about 4 months, daily use with my pliers and they still look great. Really want to use it on the rest of my tools, but hard to find time when I use them everyday. Going to use them on my black husky sockets next which have developed some specs of rust. Might use this on my 89 bronco as well, but not sure if I wantt get a new paint job or not.
5:49 "It all depends on how much you don't care" ...😆
I used penetrol on my 51 Dodge. Shined it right up and stayed pretty nice for about 3 years.
This helped me out a lot I’m trying to do a rust patina to my truck pretty soon so I’ve been looking up how to make the rust look good thanks
Penetrol does contain Boiled Linseed Oil, in fact it is about 1/2 BLO.
FYI: Flood Penetrol Copycat recipe (Based on use and SDS info): (measurements by weight, but by volume will be close to the same)
1 part Naphtha,
1 Part Boiled Linseed Oil
Yes, there are a lot of other little bits of stuff in there like ethylbenzene, but those are not the primary ingredients we are concerned about for use in this kind of project (patina protector).
This is not a clear coat in that such a term is reserved for "paints" that are clear.
Penetrol's "helps adhesion" statements on the bottle/can refer to the fact the BLO in Penetrol has been used in paints for centuries (barn paint is basically Linseed oil and rust powder).
The other primary ingredient, Naphtha is a solvent/thinner that aids in penetration (thus the name Penetr-ol) making the pain surface, be it bare, primer, or prior paint, 'sticky' and more willing to accept a new finish to be applied.
Essentially, the Naphtha helps the BLO penetrate deeper into the existing rust and finishes, removes or pseudo-converts oxidized paints and rust, and inhibits the oxidization of paint and metals going forward.
Penetrol will NOT create a shield like paint or a "clear coat" paint, but will work very well, as long as rubbed or painted on regularly, depending upon how much you wish to suspend the continuing development of your patina finish (more applications = less new rust),usually about 1-3 applications or more per year depending on environment, storage of vehicle, etc. (more exposure and driving = Penetrol benefits wear out faster.)
God bless.
I was reading the data sheet on penetrol and never seen anything about linseed oil. It does seem to have a lot in common with poppy’s patina.
Thank you for taking the time, I appreciate you!
Dude you sound EXACTLY like “bear independent” here on TH-cam hahah the way you talk you intro disclaimer it’s honestly a trip
Just did my 1973 F100, no prep at all and it looks great still
And the amount of “not care” was off the meter, still impressed with the finish
i dig it! i think i rather do this than the boiled linseed oil!
I've used both, Penetrol and Linseed. Penetrol is less shiny and not so thick. I use it on my truck.
I'm testing it on my 67 silver streak camp trailer. It's all aluminum and oxidized looking milky. I've tries a ton of stuff to make it look like new, penetrol is looking pretty good. Thanks
If I want it to shine just a bit more, do I just use more on it? Wondering if you've tested that? Thanks for sharing 👍🏼
Dude! Thank you so much for this video. I’m doing my 51 Dodge. I love the look.
I did my Dodge. People are flipping out. It looks amazing.
Hell yea I got a 63 c10 too ganna go a different route but I enjoy watching all builds!
Really hoping you make that video about the rot spot you mentioned. I just bought a 62 VW single cab that’s crusty and wanna see your thoughts on the rot spots. Also gonna use your liquid to pop the turkis patina. Thanks for putting vids together
I poored it on the hood then used an old rag to rub it around still turned out great
An old license plate or street sign would stiffen that fender rite up.
10:50. I suppose spray wax might temporarily make it glossy if you wanted to. I don’t know. Weighing my options for my 1987 Ford Bronco.
The way the painted faded when it was in Florida 25+ years ago and then has some Ohio rust mixed in… I’m leaning towards preserving this look. The truck has a long history in the family.
If you want a duller finish use super fine (0000) steel wool (very lightly dampened) over the dried finish.
add a teaspoon of baby powder to a qt of clear and it will dull the shine old trick
LOOKS NICE
But how does it feel (sticky)
or not?
A friend 0f mine said it took your truck 60 years to look like yours ,why in hll do you want to make it look like a brand new truck.you can't make that patina or rust or rust holes ,just drive it till the wheels fall off.love your video .my 67 c 10 has five different colors,iam going to spray ur product after I check an area that I spray.
Do you think a light gloss coat would hurt it any after you apply that.
Looks amazing 😍 I love it
Do you need to use multiple layers or reapplication over time? Thanks
There's air stuck inside the roller. Working out the air would result in a different outcome.
Where can I get them ?
What’s the length on the frame on your truck?
@hooligans speed co I am in California I have looked for flood penetrol everywhere supposedly its restricted here. What do you think of limeseed oil?
Bro u are so sick im gonna be doing this on my patina 89 silverado
Looks good bro!
I dig it! Thanks for the tip!
Not bashing him at all but thought it was funny. I really don't think he cares lol. Great video and I'm going to try it out. I have a 78 C10 aka Scamp and going to sand down the body(which is on my channel) and some what make a patina. Keep up the videos
Did my car. I like the end product
I had a smooth rolled do that wit me b4
Penetrol is just Boiled linseed oil with a little solvent in it. You can make the same exact stuff by adding a little mineral spirits to boiled linseed oil. However there are problems with both of those. The problem with boiled linseed oil/penetrol is that: 1. It isn't waterproof (so humidity still gets through it). and 2. It is extremely hard to remove if you dont like it on your vehicle. So when you layer it on every 3-6 months you are making a big build up of coating and how are you gonn get that off when you been doing that for years? the only way is sanding and chiseling. Theres a much better old farmers product called "Wellers". It was produced back in the 1940s for the steel parts of WWII planes. The aluminum didnt rust but to preserve the steel bolts and wheels etc they used Wellers. It uses some lab produced formulation of oils and polymers to block all the humidity from coming through onto the steel. It is also a wipe on thing like BLO (boiled linseed oil) / penetrol but with much better results and better at patina locking in. The bottle I got has lasted forever too. I wouldn't let yellowing BLO/penetrol near my ride unless i wanted a gummy mess I couldn't remove. you'll noticed that buildup/yellowing over time. If you only have one layer on now I'd remove it before it cures for years (use mineral spiritrs or rubbing alcohol to get a young layer off) and then get that Wellers stuff I mention.
Got a link for the wellers or a video of it on your ride curious and doesnt come up in google
The brush doesn't leave lines when flood Dries?
No, its self-leveling.. It was developed as a paint additive to remove brush marks.
I have a lot of new metal I chop the car, how I can make the new metal look same as old rusty metal, before I clear coat?
I made a solution for my last truck with hydrogen peroxide, white vinegar, and salt. And it will instantly flash rust. More coats, the heavier the rust.
Will a quart do a long wheel base c10 squarebody?
One quart should be more than enough. At 10 bucks a quart, even if you had to buy another can, it would still be a bargain.
11/10 still a not rod
Yama-Davison 😂
How good does it shed water.
Just like a regular clear paint
it is oil, so the water runs off.
But you do have to think of it like a wax job, it's not permanent in the same sense as a paint job.
Penetrol have linseed oil in it? I think I have a can of it.
No I dont believe it does
Yes it does plus other oils and solvents
Its main ingredient is boiled linseed oil. The plus is the additives, which level the oil and help it dry out quicker. Think of it like a third step- 1- linseed oil (which never seems to dry) 2- boiled linseed oil (which dries after a while) and now 3- Penetrol which dries much quicker and levels out much more.
What kind of wheels are those though?
Im assuming factory. They came on the truck
how long does it last?
8 months later and it's still looking good
Geeeze !
If you are looking for a way to preserve your patina. I think we can help..
I'll have to check you guys out. Thanks!
Just mint
🔥🔥👌👌🔥🔥
What was that, a mini pickup???😂
i used it to protect old nicely patina and pinstriped steel fold out box i use for sign writing its a 1960s first aid box ,enamel paints and solvents dont do well with acrylic clear coat could of used varnish but this flood is nice satin finish and oil based