Thanks for all the free value on youtube here. I used to clean out after EVERY color and now recently I have been being more relaxed on it for certain ones. I have now confirmed thats okay for certain tones. Thanks!!
Thanks for the tip on split/flared nozzles. I started seeing the exact pattern you showed, but couldn't see any obvious problems. Time for a new nozzle.
Get yourself one of the magnifiers you can find them on ebay and amazon and they should be able to help identify the problem, glad you enjoyed the video.
Something tangentially related to the switching of colors I noted and important to mention regarding the (very nice) monochromatic eye illustration up front in your video... When I'm doing monochromatic pieces such as this, I prefer to mask highlights such as the white flare on the eyeball rather than overlay it with white paint after the transparent greys and black are complete. I've found few whites which are genuinely neutral. They are typically cool and often appear unnatural when applied over blacks, most of which I've found, tend to lean warm. An exaggerated example of this same phenomenon is easily seen when applying 'out of the bottle' white highlights over most any warm color fields such as, and particularly, skin tones. They often simply don't seem to jive with them. If realism is the goal with a monochromatic illustration, care should be taken to either allow the raw whiteness of the ground (illustration board, canvas etc) to dictate the color tone of any white highlights (buy masking them off), or an effort should be made to warm (match the tone of) the white being used for such stark highlights or cool the black being used to formulate the transparent greys used in building the painting. Of course the former, allowing the background white to dictate highlights, is always preferable as in the end, these highlights will faithfully and exactly match the unpainted area around one's subject. Hope my commentary isn't overstepping my bounds. It's simply that as soon as I saw the eye illustration, the contrast in color between the applied white highlight and the warmth of the rest of the piece, jumped out at me. I'm new to this channel and perhaps you've covered this in a previous video. If so please excuse my interjections if unwelcome. I thought it worth mentioning as part of the conversation regarding the intermixing of residual cup colors, as that relates to color compatibilities and end results. Thanks again for sharing your experience.
Definitely makes sense on certain color changes..I've been painting lures for about a year now..I never use the cup lid, does it make a difference or is this designed to help pull air through your cup for better flow?
Nice tricks. For me I can't just dump, blast, and add because I do I lot of color matches. I have noticed that a small amount of the previous color is normally not an issue.
Hi!! Great content!! You got a new follower for sure. Just a quick question. the container you use to wash the airbrush what is it called and where do you buy it? Thank you 😁😁
I am new to air brush painting however did cake decorating with an air brush for many years. Biggest challenge is learning new and choosing correct products. Can alcohol be used for cleaning and thinning paint. I just order air brush paints ready to experiment.
So, Ive been recommending you to all my customers (Geek store). Would you be able to do a video maybe using Vallejo or Citadel paints. They seem to be a lot harder to clean in an airbrush compared to the ones youve been using (Hard to get in canada). Love your stuff.
Thank you so much for recommending our videos to your customers, I have heard great things about Vallejo and Citadel paints I would be more than happy to do a video I will see if any of my suppliers stock the paint as I don't have any for demonstration. Thanks again and glad you enjoyed the video. 😉
They're mostly used for miniature painting. Typically they have more pigment and are intended to be thinned. Vellejo does have their own "Air" line of paints, as does Army Painter. But would love any tips or insight you can provide
At one point in the video where you changed from Yellow to Red you indicated that putting it back(the yellow back into the unreduced paint bottle) into the original container even if it's reduced, is that a good idea? Reducer in paint diminishes the shelf life of the paint so would it be a good idea to pour it back into an unreduced paint bottle?
Yes, you can definitely put it in a seperate bottle if you don't wish to tip it back into the original bottle. I personally don't mind as the Trident paints combined with their reducer seem to store really well and I am using the paint more than most so it doesn't sit around for too long. All in all, if you are unsure of how your brand will last then definitely disregard my suggestion and put it in a seperate clean bottle to be safe. 😉👍
lol I know that but what’s the measurement of that box? I’m looking for something similar and we have the same cleaning pot so trying to find a box big enough to put it.
@@reashellbrightman4260 not sure of the exact measurement but 6” would be close , it basically just needs to be big enough so that you can fit the cleaning pot in there comfortably 👍🏻
Do you do a full clean on water or airbrush cleaner? As I seem to spend a lot of time and airbrush cleaner between colours. I say a lot, its time consuming but I like to clean it out to metal before I use another colour, as I'm new I didn't want to balls up a model paint. Although realistically if I sprayed a slight off colour I could just cover it logically, once it dries in 10 seconds. Basically I think my fear is getting the airbrush wet with water and it going rusty or wrong, but if it can handle a wetting without dismantle and drying that would be easier.
Any regular airbrush will not rust. They are traditionally made of nickel or chrome plated brass. The plating is there to prevent oxidation, which would potentially ruin your paint. Water will not hurt it in any way. Solvents such as acetone, lacquer thinner, paint thinner, etc. are all fine to shoot through, but don't leave an airbrush soaking in any of those overnight(I've read stories of them damaging the plating if left for very long periods of time). Isopropyl alcohol is also safe to use in an airbrush, for cleaning, reducing, etc.
@@nikitavolchik Thanks, I use airbrush thinner, But make sure its dry due to the rust fear, if that's not a problem, I cant follow the video and just spray to clean instead of spending 15 minutes cleaning it out each time.
So is there no need to strip down and clean the airbrush after every use? I’ve been doing this, even going to the extent of lubricating the needle and removing the tip nozzle which causes it to leak and air bubbles in the cup. It looks so much easier just running reducer through it. So how often should I strip it down and lube my airbrush?
When I used to airbrush a lot, I only use about 6 colours. Of course, I also used 6 airbrushes, each with one of the colours. I have 7 airbrushes installed, but the extra one, I used for specialized colours or colours I can't mix with the 6 usual colours. I mix colours as I paint. So, never use orange or green. Those I mix by overlying. Purple, I will use on the 7th airbrush, if I need it. I use the reducer to flush the airbrush with water often to reduce paint buildup when using water-based paint and thinner for oil-based paints. If I have a large job and am not finished at the end of the day, after flushing the airbrushes, I pull the needle back a bit and store the airbrushes in a jar of water/thinner until the next day. Detaching them from the air hoses, of course. The next day, I just attached them back, flush again and attach the paint jars to the respective brushes and continue.
I have been flushing through the back of my brushes ever since I learnt how to Airbrush in 1997. I have never had issues with any of the brushes that I have done this to including brands like Paasche, Sparmax, Badger, GSi Creos and Iwata. In my opinion and from what I have experienced over the years, is that if you don't flush through the back and wipe your needle eventually paint builds up and you may need pliers to get your needle out...doing way more damage then you could ever do by flushing through the back.
Please explain to a total noob how the Split Tip occurs? Is this a common occurrence. Also what does the magnifier you recommend do exactly. Thanks for sharing the knowledge!
Use the createx 4011 4012, or they have a new reduce which is 4013. The 4011 is what createx recommends for everything these days. The 4012 is very aggressive to the point it will erase paint that has been there and totally dried if you spray too heavy. Im not sure if they make 4012 anymore but that is MY go to reducer( I bought ALOT). I use 70 or 80 percent reducer to 20 to 30 percent paint for detail and depending on coverage uppity want you should be able yo spray straight out of the bottle with a good airbrush
I mean it is easy to say, but i prefer airbrushes with fast cleaning productdesigns. Like the Infinity. What i realy hate are products like the iwata because it is so fiddly to losen the screws, you need tools and need to be super careful. With the infinity i don't need any tools at all, my bare hands are enough, it is super fast and easy to do. Also if you may paint alot and have more than one airbrush, a sonic cleaner for googles can also be used for your airbrushes as well. They are super cheap and work great. But don't use cleanings which destroy the rubber seals.
Unfortunate you didn't spend more time on "split or flared" I didn't understand what you mean. I can see what it's doing to your lines but it's not clear why.
Kool 🙌gravity feed quick color change tutorial. Siphon feed airbrushes are better overall for painting any art project using multiple colors in my opinion. It's misleading to say a siphon feed airbrush is only good for painting T-shirts, Automotive painting, or Murals. Gravity feed airbrushes used where there is a need for the use of multi-colors and consistent prolonged use of multi-colors is tedious time consuming work and can waste a lot of paint if all you're going to use is a gravity fed airbrush. I do see the value in gravity feed airbrushes but it is also a myth that super fines lines can only be achieved with such airbrushes as I know personally that you can achieve equally if not the same fine lines with a 5mm IWATA Eclipse HP-BCS. It all comes down to ones own freehand airbrush technique and the mastering of depth control i.e. How close you are able to get to the surface of your painting with your airbrush without damage to the airbrush needle.😎
💥 New to Airbrushing ? Take a look at these 5 Tips that will help 👉th-cam.com/video/Bey2fy-pzAE/w-d-xo.html
Thanks for all the free value on youtube here. I used to clean out after EVERY color and now recently I have been being more relaxed on it for certain ones. I have now confirmed thats okay for certain tones. Thanks!!
Thanks for the tip on split/flared nozzles. I started seeing the exact pattern you showed, but couldn't see any obvious problems. Time for a new nozzle.
Get yourself one of the magnifiers you can find them on ebay and amazon and they should be able to help identify the problem, glad you enjoyed the video.
Fantastic video, very helpful, Thank you very much. Everyone keep yourselves and love ones safe and healthy
no probs thanks for your comment and glad you enjoyed the video. And I wish you all the very best as well 👍
Great video for someone newer to airbrushing thank you for the great content
Thank you and welcome to airbrushing glad you are enjoying our videos. 👍
Something tangentially related to the switching of colors I noted and important to mention regarding the (very nice) monochromatic eye illustration up front in your video...
When I'm doing monochromatic pieces such as this, I prefer to mask highlights such as the white flare on the eyeball rather than overlay it with white paint after the transparent greys and black are complete.
I've found few whites which are genuinely neutral. They are typically cool and often appear unnatural when applied over blacks, most of which I've found, tend to lean warm. An exaggerated example of this same phenomenon is easily seen when applying 'out of the bottle' white highlights over most any warm color fields such as, and particularly, skin tones. They often simply don't seem to jive with them.
If realism is the goal with a monochromatic illustration, care should be taken to either allow the raw whiteness of the ground (illustration board, canvas etc) to dictate the color tone of any white highlights (buy masking them off), or an effort should be made to warm (match the tone of) the white being used for such stark highlights or cool the black being used to formulate the transparent greys used in building the painting. Of course the former, allowing the background white to dictate highlights, is always preferable as in the end, these highlights will faithfully and exactly match the unpainted area around one's subject.
Hope my commentary isn't overstepping my bounds. It's simply that as soon as I saw the eye illustration, the contrast in color between the applied white highlight and the warmth of the rest of the piece, jumped out at me. I'm new to this channel and perhaps you've covered this in a previous video. If so please excuse my interjections if unwelcome. I thought it worth mentioning as part of the conversation regarding the intermixing of residual cup colors, as that relates to color compatibilities and end results. Thanks again for sharing your experience.
Great video. I’m still new in my airbrush journey
It's a great painting tool! Welcome to the club! 🤓
Definitely makes sense on certain color changes..I've been painting lures for about a year now..I never use the cup lid, does it make a difference or is this designed to help pull air through your cup for better flow?
So many great tips, thank you! What do you clean with?
Great info ! I use a jewelry cleaner for my airbrushes it works wonderful
Nice tricks. For me I can't just dump, blast, and add because I do I lot of color matches. I have noticed that a small amount of the previous color is normally not an issue.
Hi!! Great content!! You got a new follower for sure. Just a quick question. the container you use to wash the airbrush what is it called and where do you buy it? Thank you 😁😁
Cool!!! Thanks for the great info!!!!! I am learning more n more!!!!😀😎👍😀🤘
I am new to air brush painting however did cake decorating with an air brush for many years. Biggest challenge is learning new and choosing correct products. Can alcohol be used for cleaning and thinning paint. I just order air brush paints ready to experiment.
So, Ive been recommending you to all my customers (Geek store). Would you be able to do a video maybe using Vallejo or Citadel paints. They seem to be a lot harder to clean in an airbrush compared to the ones youve been using (Hard to get in canada). Love your stuff.
Order Vallejo in the winter in Canada and you risk your paint arriving congealed and dry and will be unusable......its a gamble I lost.
Thank you so much for recommending our videos to your customers, I have heard great things about Vallejo and Citadel paints I would be more than happy to do a video I will see if any of my suppliers stock the paint as I don't have any for demonstration. Thanks again and glad you enjoyed the video. 😉
I offer you Vallejo Airbrush Cleaner for Vallejo or Citadel paints like in this video: "How to clean your airbrush?"
They're mostly used for miniature painting. Typically they have more pigment and are intended to be thinned. Vellejo does have their own "Air" line of paints, as does Army Painter. But would love any tips or insight you can provide
At one point in the video where you changed from Yellow to Red you indicated that putting it back(the yellow back into the unreduced paint bottle) into the original container even if it's reduced, is that a good idea? Reducer in paint diminishes the shelf life of the paint so would it be a good idea to pour it back into an unreduced paint bottle?
Yes, you can definitely put it in a seperate bottle if you don't wish to tip it back into the original bottle. I personally don't mind as the Trident paints combined with their reducer seem to store really well and I am using the paint more than most so it doesn't sit around for too long. All in all, if you are unsure of how your brand will last then definitely disregard my suggestion and put it in a seperate clean bottle to be safe. 😉👍
@@AirbrushAsylum I understand, The key there probably is the frequency which you are using the paint.
Is that a 6x6 plastic box you are using when doing the deep clean with the water?
No that’s to stop water going everywhere when using the clean out pot 👍🏻
lol I know that but what’s the measurement of that box? I’m looking for something similar and we have the same cleaning pot so trying to find a box big enough to put it.
@@reashellbrightman4260 not sure of the exact measurement but 6” would be close , it basically just needs to be big enough so that you can fit the cleaning pot in there comfortably 👍🏻
If could could you tell me which iwata are you using thanks. Is this the revolution?
It's not Iwata , it's a Creos .
Do you do a full clean on water or airbrush cleaner? As I seem to spend a lot of time and airbrush cleaner between colours. I say a lot, its time consuming but I like to clean it out to metal before I use another colour, as I'm new I didn't want to balls up a model paint. Although realistically if I sprayed a slight off colour I could just cover it logically, once it dries in 10 seconds. Basically I think my fear is getting the airbrush wet with water and it going rusty or wrong, but if it can handle a wetting without dismantle and drying that would be easier.
Any regular airbrush will not rust. They are traditionally made of nickel or chrome plated brass. The plating is there to prevent oxidation, which would potentially ruin your paint. Water will not hurt it in any way. Solvents such as acetone, lacquer thinner, paint thinner, etc. are all fine to shoot through, but don't leave an airbrush soaking in any of those overnight(I've read stories of them damaging the plating if left for very long periods of time). Isopropyl alcohol is also safe to use in an airbrush, for cleaning, reducing, etc.
@@nikitavolchik Thanks, I use airbrush thinner, But make sure its dry due to the rust fear, if that's not a problem, I cant follow the video and just spray to clean instead of spending 15 minutes cleaning it out each time.
So is there no need to strip down and clean the airbrush after every use? I’ve been doing this, even going to the extent of lubricating the needle and removing the tip nozzle which causes it to leak and air bubbles in the cup. It looks so much easier just running reducer through it. So how often should I strip it down and lube my airbrush?
Wonderful information thanks
What solution are you using and suggest for cleaning?
When I used to airbrush a lot, I only use about 6 colours. Of course, I also used 6 airbrushes, each with one of the colours. I have 7 airbrushes installed, but the extra one, I used for specialized colours or colours I can't mix with the 6 usual colours. I mix colours as I paint. So, never use orange or green. Those I mix by overlying. Purple, I will use on the 7th airbrush, if I need it.
I use the reducer to flush the airbrush with water often to reduce paint buildup when using water-based paint and thinner for oil-based paints. If I have a large job and am not finished at the end of the day, after flushing the airbrushes, I pull the needle back a bit and store the airbrushes in a jar of water/thinner until the next day. Detaching them from the air hoses, of course. The next day, I just attached them back, flush again and attach the paint jars to the respective brushes and continue.
Does flushing through the back push water into the air valve area?
I have been flushing through the back of my brushes ever since I learnt how to Airbrush in 1997. I have never had issues with any of the brushes that I have done this to including brands like Paasche, Sparmax, Badger, GSi Creos and Iwata. In my opinion and from what I have experienced over the years, is that if you don't flush through the back and wipe your needle eventually paint builds up and you may need pliers to get your needle out...doing way more damage then you could ever do by flushing through the back.
@@AirbrushAsylum you for the thoughtful response :)
Please explain to a total noob how the Split Tip occurs? Is this a common occurrence.
Also what does the magnifier you recommend do exactly.
Thanks for sharing the knowledge!
Interesting. 😎
Is that water you are cleaning with?
Wow 😯
How do I get wicked colors to reduce n not clog or spit
Use the createx 4011 4012, or they have a new reduce which is 4013. The 4011 is what createx recommends for everything these days. The 4012 is very aggressive to the point it will erase paint that has been there and totally dried if you spray too heavy. Im not sure if they make 4012 anymore but that is MY go to reducer( I bought ALOT). I use 70 or 80 percent reducer to 20 to 30 percent paint for detail and depending on coverage uppity want you should be able yo spray straight out of the bottle with a good airbrush
That’s t shirt goes hard. How can I get one. 2xl
Good Call
Thanks mate hope you are safe and doing well 😉👍
How to clean an air brush and maintain it!
Check out this video which should help 👉🏻 th-cam.com/video/Wz0mtq36sQE/w-d-xo.htmlsi=rDBGmjV6byKKrvhH
I mean it is easy to say, but i prefer airbrushes with fast cleaning productdesigns. Like the Infinity. What i realy hate are products like the iwata because it is so fiddly to losen the screws, you need tools and need to be super careful. With the infinity i don't need any tools at all, my bare hands are enough, it is super fast and easy to do.
Also if you may paint alot and have more than one airbrush, a sonic cleaner for googles can also be used for your airbrushes as well. They are super cheap and work great.
But don't use cleanings which destroy the rubber seals.
Looks like mixing colors in the airbrush cup is not going to work in some instances with this quick change method.
Unfortunate you didn't spend more time on "split or flared" I didn't understand what you mean. I can see what it's doing to your lines but it's not clear why.
I do not know. The video is not making things easier or more airbrushing more attractive.Maybe you should delete it.
Kool 🙌gravity feed quick color change tutorial. Siphon feed airbrushes are better overall for painting any art project using multiple colors in my opinion. It's misleading to say a siphon feed airbrush is only good for painting T-shirts, Automotive painting, or Murals. Gravity feed airbrushes used where there is a need for the use of multi-colors and consistent prolonged use of multi-colors is tedious time consuming work and can waste a lot of paint if all you're going to use is a gravity fed airbrush. I do see the value in gravity feed airbrushes but it is also a myth that super fines lines can only be achieved with such airbrushes as I know personally that you can achieve equally if not the same fine lines with a 5mm IWATA Eclipse HP-BCS. It all comes down to ones own freehand airbrush technique and the mastering of depth control i.e. How close you are able to get to the surface of your painting with your airbrush without damage to the airbrush needle.😎