Duet 2 Maestro & Reprap firmware on SK-GO: Guide for a Marlin user
ฝัง
- เผยแพร่เมื่อ 1 พ.ค. 2024
- I’ve had a Duet 2 Maestro and PanelDue 5i sitting around for almost a year, and have finally fitted them to my Seckit SK-GO 3D printer. Being very familiar with Marlin firmware and the SKR range of cost effective mainboards, I wanted to establish whether the Duet 3D hardware was worth the cost, and if reprap firmware really was the best.
This video aims to cover these two questions as I detail my experiences in learning new hardware and firmware. It is impossible to include very detail so I’ve focused on specific features and challenges to give a fair representation. While I acknowledge the parts are expensive, they are very good. The price becomes closer when you purchase an SKR mainboard, stepper motor drivers and a Raspberry Pi to run Octoprint.
It should also be noted that Duet hardware supports the much cheaper 12864 LCDs as used on many printers.
Thanks to Tal Dayan for donating US$150 towards the cost of this conversion. I’m sorry it took so long to make the video. The rest of the purchase was paid for myself. All opinions expressed are my own.
Purchase Duet 3D hardware: www.duet3d.com/
Duet hardware/feature comparison: duet3d.dozuki.com/Wiki/The_Du...
Reprap firmware comparison: duet3d.dozuki.com/Wiki/Firmwa...
Duet3D wiki: duet3d.dozuki.com/
PanelDue case on Thingiverse: www.thingiverse.com/thing:279...
My remixed front part of case for the Seckit SK-GO: www.thingiverse.com/thing:446...
Endstop holders and other Seckit SK-GO parts I’ve designed (right click on parts and export as STL, STEP, etc): cad.onshape.com/documents/e25...
Ethernet to wifi converter (yet to be tested): www.ebay.com.au/itm/320956936428
Buy quality and affordable filament from X3D. Buy 3, get 1 free and a free sample pack with every order: www.x3d.com.au
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I like seeing you make this jump to RRF. I did several months back and had a similar experience. I’ll never go back. As always, great video Michael
Step 1: Get at least 5 years of experience building and upgrading 3d printers. Step 2: Memorize all of the features or Marlin, and all G Code commands. Now you're ready to tackle upgrading! Seriously - you convinced me. I will never attempt something like this.
You can easily skip the misery of Marlin and directly start with RRF.
@@christophmuller3511 "misery of marlin" sounds like someone is trying to justify wasting his money on a duet lol.
yeah just give me rdy to go firmware that works...
I don't think I have to justify not using the worst printer firmware out there.
The Marlin configuration "strategy" comes from necessity due to a history of using overpriced 8 bit hardware for years which is why there was the need to optimize the build to only include what is absolutely needed in order to fit onto the AVRs it was targeted for. Guess what: AVRs now finally are replaced with the sane choice of 32 bit ARMs which have been around for a long time for prices significantly lower then the "large" ATMegas. 2.0 finally introduced support for 32 bit ARMs but instead of dropping the legacy and rethinking the design decissions the Marlin development team stuck to the useability nightmare of C header file configuration.
This is also a security risk. There is no way knowing which features a supplier included into their pre build firmware. People still tell people to upgrade their Ender Firmware to enable thermal runaway protection because there is no proper way to see what the firmware is actually doing. Even more this approach is a testing horror - how do you know there is no side effect between different configurations?
I'd rather use Klipper than touching Marlin ever again. Did I waste money on a duet? Not really, there are very few options for Marlin out there with support for 7 stepper drivers and the price including drivers is very compareable to the Maestro driving my Voron 2 ...
@@christophmuller3511 let me get this straight... Reprap firmware started 32 bit, all the premade configurations from manufacturers are always perfectly done and easily readable, there are never side effects of changing config, and always need 7 motors?
This was a great video, I have had a Duet Maestro board for a while now and I have been putting off installing it on my Ender 5 Plus. I think this has helped me with some information that I felt I was missing to go ahead and make the change.
Michael great fan of yours. Would love to see more videos on the Duet.
This really helps when considering different printers and printer options.. like the Seckit. He has a barebones version and a mid level version. This makes the lower level versions a more clear choice. The railcore comes with these boards and now I really see the value in those. This helps in the comparison shopping. Also, it is nice to have the heads up on the bumps in the road in upgrading the firmware.
Great review as usual, definitely worth the price. Product seems well developed!
Spent a lot of time switching my Ender 3 over to a SKR 1.3 with 2208's, direct drive, EZR, microswiss, bltouch, and dual z axis. All this thanks to your wonderful video's. Printer prints perfect with zero flaws. Don't think duet would help me at all. Love your video's but think I'll pass on this one.
I don't think he'd lose any sleep over it either way hahahaha jk brother
I'm definitely liking the look of the FW and more importantly how easy it is to make changes. Hope to give it a try if resources become available.
Thx for another great video! I’m very new to 3D-printing and are just now gathering facts on what I want to be able to do. Duet 2 WiFi, will suit my needs because of how I’ve set up my workshop/office (no computers in the workshop). Also I want to add a EZABL for convenience, accury and speed (got the idea from a great Video on that), which lead me to this vid, which solved my confusion about different firmwares. This has made me to soon be ready to press buy and get all the things I need in one order. Thanks again for very useful videos. Keep up the good work.
Great walk-through 👍
Thanks for sharing 👍😁
Duet interface looks so nice
Thanks for this Michael I've had I duet WiFi clone sat next to my sk-go for months now. Think I may just attempt it this weekend
PERFECT timing. Currently in the middle of designing a CoreXY build (of similar size to the SK-Go) and have been looking very closely at both the Duet Wifi board and the Flex3Drive extruder you're using. Can't wait to see what else you do to that machine.
Video soon testing the Slice Engineering Copperhead with it, although I'm not sure I have any really high temp filament to benefit.
Great video. Having a good crimp tool is a must! I went from some cheap Amazon one to an iwiss I found on sale and I haven't messed up a crimp since
M997 S0 made my day free, I've been searching for a solution whole day long before i realized the simple sd out sd in version thx to this code. Well done Michael! And cheers ;)
I might do this on my next 3d printer. I put the SKR 1.4 Pro onto my ender 5, and that's made some significant benefits. I was also able to use the Servo Probe pins even for homing, so that's super nice.
I'm new to 3D printing. But I bought an ExoCube kit from ExoSlide, and sourced most of the hardware. The kite can handle either the Marlin or the Duet. I went with a Maestro. I'll see what I get when I get the thing together and working. I started my build today, I estimate 3 weeks to first test. Thanks for the videos, they influenced me alot.
Usefull vidéo, thanks. The web interface seems very powerfull, that could convince me.
Great video Michael. The configuration tool reminds me of the repetier tool. I really like that web interface. As far as moving to duet, just way too expensive, and I am not sure of the gain, especially in the print quality.
Very interesting. I happened to buy a printer with a older Duet (0.6), which has worked very well. I'm looking at the Maestro as an upgrade, and this video has been helpful in seeing how similar it is. I have another printer (Monoprice Select Mini), which I believe is Marlin based, and although the software isn't as slick, it does still print very well. Thanks 😀👍
Man i just picked up same kit as in the video for about $50 US unused, thanks for a nice video its actually one of the reasons i bought the kit 🙌
I would love to try out a Duet 2, looks like an amazing card but it is really expensive. It is great to experiment with these new boards. Great video as usual Michael. I reviewed the BTT SKR Mini and I am really impressed by that board, especially the price.
You can buy clones from Aliexpress for significantly cheaper if cost is an issue for you.
Tolgal I do have originals in my printers. But the boards are open hardware after all and dc42 doesn’t gain anything from people using SKRs instead.
Very expensive, insane. For me it costs (with 7" screen) near 10 cheap filaments.
@@tolgal Yes, but I bought from Ali because: I was not sure will I be able to put it into my printer (Anycubic 4Max Pro), how it will work, is it worth it, will I be able to solve the obstacles with my extruder etc. If you know what you doing it is great to buy original, if you trying and chances 50/50 it is worth to try with cheaper replica.
@@tolgal There are 3 options:
1) Buy "Genuine" Duet hardware for $170+
2) Buy 3rd party Duet Wifi or Maestro hardware for $70+ (which IS allowed for under the license that Duet uses: github.com/T3P3/Duet/blob/master/LICENSE )
3) Buy nothing
For many people on more restrictive budgets however, the only relevant options are 2 and 3. You'll notice that neither one of these options has any real impact on Duet3D except perhaps for people seeking support for their 3rd party boards on the official forums, which they already have a rule against. If you've got extra cash lying around, sure.
Great video, thank you! I just ordered a Duet3D board after my Melzi board on my Duplicator i3 died.
Michael,
I love this video! I have been debating between an SKR board, A Duet 3 board, and an Archim 2 board. But i find no reviews of experiences with the Archim, I would love a video from you on the matter.
Thanks!
Have to replace my Mingda board. This is my very 1st time doing this, so I'm having to learn everything from scratch. I went with the Duet 3. Yeah, it's expensive! But having a board I know is rock solid helps me justify it. The Duet 3 has virtually limitless growth potential, so as I learn & want to try new things, I know the board will support it. Thanks for the review. It helped me decide between Duet & BTT.
such nicely made boards. most 3d printer boards are just made as cheaply as possible. Good to see some quality electronics.
We just put together a Modix 120 at work with. Duet Wifi. I wish I could do more via the touch screen and not just the web interface. Like you, still learning!
Thanks for a great video .
Just installed a duet WiFi to my ender 3. One of the best decision ever. Now just waiting to hear back from
a buddy when he can finish cutting and welding a new mount for my titan aqua.
Hi Michael, thanks for the video it's always interesting to see what you are up to. For me I can say that no, there is nothing here to convince me to switch to Duet boards from my current setup. I run two printers, an Anycubic Linear Kossel and the ubiquitous Ender 3, both of which I control with a Raspberry Pi/Octoprint. From a purely economic point of view the Duet boards make no sense since networking, Wi/Fi and web interface are taken care of by the $39 R-Pi. Also by not screwing around with the printer controllers I'm not running the risk of damaging my printers. I know the E3 stepper drivers are noisy but it seems that since using damper mounts the stepper noise has been cut down considerably. I can install a large number of plugins in Octoprint and the R-Pi gen 4 is a very nippy processor. That's what's doing all the heavy lifting for the printers which seem more than capable of accepting the low level G code being sent out by Octoprint. I can set up a printer with Octoprint and a fresh $39 R-Pi in about 10 minutes without digging into the printer itself. Contrast this with spending $150+ and at least a day switching in a Duet board not to mention the considerable risk in doing so.
From an economy point of few you also have to pay for the pi at which point a duet maestro alone is fairly similarly priced to an SKR + drivers +Pi, in particular if you buy a chinese clone (it’s only fair to compare Chinese prices against each other)
Christoph Müller Exactly how I reasoned!
@@christophmuller3511 Sorry I missed your comment. I have not upgraded any of my printer controllers. I am using the original controllers supplied with the printers, also I have discovered how to run multiple printers from one Raspberry Pi 4. I would feel comfortable running up to four printers off one RPi. So my total cost is about $55 (depending on where you buy it). It is approximately one third the price of a single Duet board and it's open source and since it's an Rpi it is infinitely configurable if you want. That means you get Wi-Fi, Wired Ethernet, video surveillance, remote access and a huge library of plugins from the Octoprint community. For $55 plus whatever you want to donate to Octoprint Foundation.
I ended up upgrading my Ender 3 to a Panucatt Kinetica G2-C, a new board based on the RepRap firmware and Duet web interface. I was running an SKR mini E3 V1.2 before, but for various reasons, I wanted to try something different. Configuring the baord was rather difficult and frustrating. (Although I'm sure some of the frustration was my brain thinking "but that's not the way Marlin does it...") And there was a quite steep learning curve. In particular I had a hard time getting the BLTouch to work. But now that I've got things dialed in, it is working quite well, and I love being able to quickly upload g-code to change/tweak things rather than having to compile the firmware, throw it on an SD card, and walk it over to the printer. The web interface is fantastic, and both Cura and PrusaSlicer are able to send prints directly to it, just like with OctoPrint.
The only thing it's missing is a webcam, although if you have a camera that can stream over HTTP(S), the Duet web interface has a spot where you can input your camera's URL, and it will display it in a box alongside the printer controls. Overall I'm quite pleased with the setup, and both the hardware and the software seems of high quality and well polished. The Kinetica board is also cheaper than the Duet board ($79, including the wifi module.) Although it works with the Ender 3 stock screen, the interface is a bit clumsy, so my next upgrade is going to be a PanelDue. :)
thank you Michael for showing the path. But the path is very cruel, you are so brave.
No coward can make the upgrade to the end.
The option to modify and enable features just using G-code is what I always wanted. That being said - I ended up not to upgrade my printer so often to benefit from it. But nice to know there are alternatives to Marlin and Repetier (my favorite).
great video !
If you use prusa slicer you
Can slice and directly chose to transfer the file to the printer if it’s connected. You can also chose to start the print as soon as it’s transferred.
If you like to tinker with your printer duet is so easy to use cause you don’t need to compile firmware. The duet forum is also superior to anything. Most of the time you get professional answers in a few hours.
You can use the Prusa Slicer to transfer files to any Octoprint printer. Marlin works fine.
I hope you do more on using the duet boards.
Great video as always.
I am running a Duet 2 Wifi on one of my printers, and an SKR 1.4 on another. I love that if I move the board to a new printer, setting up its config is a breeze, as long as you are getting power and are connected to the network you can configure absolutely everything else from right in the Duet Web Client. Contrasting to this, if I want to play around with different features on the Marlin board it usually requires a recompile.
Also if you do not want to outlay for a official board, as it is open source hardware you can get a perfectly good clone from aliexpress for about the same price as an SKR 1.4 with 2209s, and although it is nice to have the display, you can work it perfectly well with a phone or tablet over WiFi, so it is a totally unnecessary purchase.
Joe
Good video. Look forward to seeing you do more with RRF. The amount of info you covered may have been a wee bit too much for one video. I dont get all the firmware bashing. Marlin and RRF are both great. One doesnt have to be bad for the other to be good. I have an Ender 3 Pro with Marlin that is tuned in and i can just hit print and forget it. Occasionally i will tweak some firmware settings and Marlin works flawlessly for that. Not to say that RRF wouldn’t work great in that situation as well but it could be argued that it is pricey and overkill in that setup. I also have a Toolchanger that requires the ease and flexibility of RRF. Having near limitless expansion capability for motors, sensors, and being able to configure almost anything you can think of. Being able to tweak and change every setting with Gcode and a simple reset of the board without recompiling and uploading firmware is so nice. There are strong use cases for each of these firmwares. Each of them definitely have their strong points and meet the needs of users. If someone wants to put a duet in an Ender 3 go for it. When Marlin becomes able to run a toolchanger or similar setup it will definitely be worth a look. I feel like learning and regularly using as many different firmwares and hardware as I’m able is a great thing. Learning the strong points and weaknesses of each only makes you more able to have an informed decision when choosing the correct one for the next application. And there is nothing better than competition in the market to drive innovation on both sides.
I think the GCODE based configuration is great and would be especially helpful if you are running a bunch of similar printers in a print-farm setting where you could automate the deployment of configuration changes without having to flash each printer with a new firmware. I also like the idea of plug-and-play extension boards because they can certainly reduce the wiring mess if all you ever have to run to the print-head is power and 2 data lines (for which you could use USB-C cables) and use a break-out board from there to control the hotend, the fans, the bed-levelling sensor)
It has tons of benefits when you get familiar with it. I use my old RasPi 3 with MotionEye OS where i use 2 webcams, and stream them to both of my Duet 2 Wifi machines, One for the CoreXY and the other camera for the old Anet A6. Really easy.
I do plan on get a duet some time soon.
i have the duet wfi with the 2660 drivers and i went from a stock tronxy x5s main board to the duet wifi and im not a coding person and the duet stuff is simple and works no issues and the motor are almost dead silent compare to the stock board the loudest part now about the printer is the wheels and belts during rapid travel moves
I build a vordon 2.4 with the duet 2 wifi the board works very good. I have the printer set up next to my TV and I can not hear it running. Very happy with this boat.
I am now more motivated than ever to get a new duet wifi board and try and upgrade my CR10-V2 to the new board and firmware. Thank you for making such an informative and useful video. I think I will go for it and get the new V3 fast board just in case I want to use it for something else in the future. Great video once again!
I'm currently upgrading my old Printrbot Simple Metal to use a Duet 2 Maestro. The new board is slightly too big to fit in the printer's enclosure, so I had to build a base for it, but I expect it to be a straightforward upgrade.
Hey Micheal ,can you do a video reviewing and going over the set up of the SKR mini E3 V2.0, and tests its thermistor anti short protection feature?
I'll have a video on this board in the near future.
@@TeachingTech Thanks , looking forward to it .
Can you test the claims of an anti short thermistor protection feature of the board ?
I'm going to try upgrading.
I'm on a budget. Ender 3's are speed. I bought a EZBoard lite and a EZABL for one of mine. I can't see myself going this route. Glad to be a Patron though.
The ezboard is much worse value over what you get for a similar price with the maestro
Regarding the lack of wifi on the Duet 2 Maestro (or any other LAN-only device), most cheap wifi routers can be set to "wifi bridge mode", which turns them into a wireless network switch that provides wired LAN ports anywhere that wifi is accessible. This is how I do it with my Maestro-powered printers
DWC is not customizable in a way octoprint is. There are no plugins, just macros and that's pretty much it. Also, if you want to try RRF, you can install it on skr 1.3 with SBC (like Pi) or esp32 connected.
Didn't know you could put the RRF on an SKR and Pi setup. Will definitely have to look into that!
@@nathan1sixteen it's actually fairly easy to do but it needs some soldering on dupont cables
@@L3LK3K true. I mentioned that
I just did that upgrade to my 1.4t, works great and fairly inexpensive.
I just got a SecKit SK-GO2 and it’s very impressive. Your review was a key factor in going with the SecKit, so thank you! You now have a new Patreon supporter. Would you be willing to share your Duet configuration and slicer profile for your Duet on the SecKit?
Maybe I missed it, but I saw no mention here of the changes that need to be made in the slicing software. For example, when I upgraded my Ender 5 Pro with a Duet 2 Maestro board, I spent a long time banging my head against the wall trying to solve issues that were caused by the "Start file" setting in Cura. These initial Gcodes override some of the settings that are set by the config.g file on the SD card and need to be commented out
I would very much like to know your thoughts on this upgrade, compared to a klipper setup which seems like it would give similar improvements at a lower cost.
Superb informative video (as per norm) the main issue I have with not already trying the duet is the need to re wire, it's not easy the amount of tools I have bought trying to help me with that is embarrassing to say the least. Thanks again though.
Ultimately you only need one crimping plier: Engineer PA-09. Yes, a bit more expensive, but compatible with pretty much every crimp connector you will find in a 3D printer, including JST (SKR boards), Molex KK (the duet boards), Molex MicroFit JR (used by some E3D hardware)...
You could solder the wires in those terminals. But if you wire a lot, I agree, a crimp tool is faster.
You dont have to re wire I have a flsun prusa i3 clone and my connections fits right In
Besides the need for the tool is the time requirement, which is pretty significant.
I have the Duet3d Wifi and had previously tried to upgrade my old Wanhao Di3. Yes, this is a very quiet board. But it never worked properly and after a year of trying I gave up and put it back in its box. The forums are very much RTFM and I also found gaps in the instructions that meant I couldn't follow them causing me to try and revert to the forums. Here I was again asked to go read the F*** manual. Given the competition it's horribly over priced. The only thing I really loved about the board was the in-built webserver. I really miss that given that the SKR boards all seem to have issues connecting to Octoprint. It's a nice board on paper, but it's a real bear to install and get support for. I converted to a Marlin board and haven't looked back.
I agree with everything you said.
More than six months ago I bought this board and still can not get it to work. The information in the manuals is not enough and it does not cover any problems that arise during the setup process.
The community is terribly small and unfriendly.
When you try to get help on the forum, you don’t get any specifics, only either standard answers in the style of "restart the board and try again", or a negative attitude in your address.
Given the fact that, for example, Bigtreetech is already taking confident steps in adding a web interface to its boards, I don’t see the point in buying Duet.
Perhaps the quality of the board itself is higher than that of any Marlin-board, but the terribly small and not the most welcoming community, inadequately high price and the wretchedness of the manuals kills it
The skr boards do not have issues connecting to octoprint. Would recommend a pi running klipper and dwc2 to emulate the full experience of rrf + duet hardware for much cheaper. Depending on the board, it might be even better.
@@esk8builder693 Thanks for the feedback. I would love to hear more about the pi Klipper / dwc2 setup. Can you point me to any tutorials / guides please? With regards to connecting the SKR-Mini-E3 to octoprint. Out of the box mine just won't do it. I have tried the suggestions about taping off the power connector on the USB and other suggestions. Still doesn't work. There are many people seeing the same problems.
@@B0M0A0K Michael has some excellent resources on octoprint setup. I personally followed his videos and got my octopi instance up and running. I next followed his klipper guide and joined the klipper discord to ask any questions.
Are you kidding me? The duet forums have some of the smartest people in 3d printing bending over backwards to answer questions. Actually, you know what, I went and searched for your username on the forums and found your posts. You've got a bunch of people giving you detailed and helpful answers. Why are you lying dude?
The first steps are not easy but the duet hardware is great and reprap is amazing. i have a original board and a clone.
Great video, I have a Duet Wifi on an Ender 5, works great. Setting up ABL seems to be a bit of a nightmare (BLtouch), might be a good idea for a future video 🙄
You are correct.... BL Touch is a bit of a pain.... but it works great once you do
I found a video from 3D Printing Canada that helped a great deal. I upgraded to the Hemera on my Ender 5 at the same time. I found the BL Touch worked as advertised but had to experiment with several mounts. I am glad I had the stock metal BL Touch mounts because the 3D printed ones were pretty flimsy.
I'm intredsted, did the Wi-Fi dongle end up working for you?
Somewhat new to printing and I was able to upgrade my ender 3 pro to have a duet WiFi. Yeah it was hard, but well worth it.
Derek McDonald I think the Duet is more expensive than the Ender 3 lol
You should try the RepRap firmware for the SKR boards.
I would like to see this!
I have ordered some parts to attempt this :)
@@TeachingTech Awesome! Looking forward to it. I have an SKR 1.3 and ESP8266 here. Just not too sure how to bring it all together.
I thought some SKR boards like Pro don't have eeprom but use the SD card instead?
According to my supplier the Maestro card is not longer produced, and only the more expensive Duet WiFi (163 Euro) is available as cheapest option. I don't think it's really very cost-effective to use a card that expensive on my 315 Euro Ender 5. Especially since I have not seen any truly convincing reason to upgrade from a SKR that's only a fraction of the cost of an Duet.
The card is very interesting, no doubt about that, but in my case I think I stick with my BTT SKR Mini E3.
I think it's another story if you have a more expensive printer, and want the convenience of no re-compiling if you want to change core parameters. In that case it's maybe worth to give that card a good run.
Duet is well woth the mo ey I got a duet 2 mastero best purchase I ever made
What made it worth it for you?
The steppers on the Maestro 2 are silent. The fans are the only sound I hear. Also Cura has a plug-in that sends sliceded files directly to your network connected printer. I know it's expensive but it's with every penny.
I have an skr mini e3 on an ender 3 with the 2209 in stealthchop..
I also have a diy corexy printer with a duet 2 wifi 2660 steppers..
The duet doesnt have stealthchop, and are definately louder than 2209 in stealthchop. But no way near as loud as a4988. Also they are less noisy than 2209 in spreadcycle..
They are quiet enough, but my e3d 48mm motors are DEAD silent on 2209 and near silent on 2660.. but... 2660 are providing WAY more torque
Thanks for responding to my question with great info.
Hi i have a zonestar 3d printer i uppgrade now from marlin software to reprap software with 3d duet and expansion board, i have 4 color extruders, laser and continius printing motors who remove the printing object, i install linear rails but i think it will take a time to set up the printer, i also
i upgraded to a duet 2 wifi, i love it. l never go back to marlin. I'm even thinking maybe upgrading my ultimaker 3 two duet2 wifi
gert jørgensen UM 3 is like really expensive!
I know you just started dipping your toes into Duet stuff, but I'd really like you to do a true comparison between Marlin and RepRap after you feel like you've spent enought time with the Duet to "figure it out". When I've asked people in the past about Duet, they all rant/rave about it but never really specify what's better about it (other than firmware changes, but I'm more of a "set it and forget it" kinda guy, not constantly making changes). For $100+ for just the board, I feel like they have to offer some pretty cool features that can't be had with a $25 SKR and $35 Raspberry Pi (since you can use they same pi for multiple printers).
Also, I'd be interested in you diving more into the SKR Pro board, as I feel like that will be a pretty close competitor to the Duet.
I tried to not speak in absolutes because of my inexperience with it. I will consider a comparison in future once I'm more familiar. I've had an SKR Pro sitting for ages, but it seemed like overkill for all of my printers. Hopefully something is suitable in the future.
@@TeachingTech I know you have been building a LowRider CNC, I think it would be cool to use the SKR Pro on that, as it would open it up to things like tool changing, which on a CNC mill would be quite useful, but having not really gotten into CNC milling yet, I wouldn't really know.
Another idea would be for a "multi head" printer, like the one that various other channels have built, but instead of building that specific kit, maybe DIYing one yourself, though I'm sure that would be a ton of work (unless you found something on Thingiverse or something)
@@TeachingTech Since you are more familiar with the SKR 1.3 there is a fork of RepRap FW by SDAVI that supports the LPC1768/*9 boards, with example config for SKR 1.3. That would give a better comparison between the two, as the hardware can remain the same.
I decided to pick up the BigTreeTech RepRap WiFi module for the SKR boards and give this a go, it works great, but man I really do not like RRF.
It might just be because I've been using MArlin for 3 years and Octoprint for 2, but everything just feels harder to do on RRF, the documentation is a bit all over the place, and the web control is seriously information overload-y. It's cool that I can change things I messed up in the configurator with a single gcode file, but without the documentation, how am I supposed to know what the new specific syntax is for my thermistor?
I'm going to keep on trying to figure this out, but Im just not seeing where the "RRF is easier, faster and nicer to use than Marlin is" comments are from.
Upgraded from allegro A4988 and DRV8825 the Duet 2 clone I got from Aliexpress changed everything. Now you can only hear the fans and some physical movement.
Try Klipper, you'll love it!
@Huawa Tuam th-cam.com/video/yAfalR7-Tvw/w-d-xo.html
Hello, would you like to help me write the configuration for the Prusa MK3S with the Superpinda sensor and the Hemera extruder for the Duet 2 WiFi board? Thank you in advance :)
I have a Duet 2 WI-Fi and Duex5 on my custom DBOT and one of the things I like is being able to change nearly any setting without having to recompile the firmware. The Touch Screen isn't necessary. You can do everything via the Web Interface. The Duet Masetro can be used with a 12864 LCD or a PanelDue whereas the Duet 2 only supports the PanelDue. I don't even have an LCD for mine.
That being said it's a huge learning curve and had something like the SKR existed when I started this project 2 years ago I probably would have gone with that instead. There was nothing like it at the time short of Klipper or a Smoothieboard which seemed even more esoteric then.
BTW if you're really adventurous and/or bored you can run the Duet firmware on an SKR 1.3 / 1.4: 3dprintbeginner.com/duet-firmware-for-skr-boards/
Thanks a lot for your video. I am a 3D printer lover. I have one M3D quad 3D printer, I find it is use Duet 2 Maestro. (I also have two M3D micro 3D printer and two 3D system cube 3 ) Recently I buy an new Ender 3s. And I find it's quality is very good and very easy to use. It is not I expect before. Because all other 3D print I buy before is second hand and I need do many adjustment and hacking to use third party filament.
Now for my new Ender 3s, I want to upgrade to Duet 2 wifi and want to make it same as M3D quad 3D printer (can use for 4 color mix). Do you have any suggestion? is it worth to do this?
And also I find Duet 2 Maestor/wifi are open source. Their license is allow reproduction. (it is right?) I find in China have lower price reproduction Duet 2 wifi. (China do not have reproduction Duet Maestro. so I want to upgrade my Ender 3s to Duet 2 wifi) I am not sure the quality level.
I upgraded my ender 3 to a duet 2 wifi and i love it changing settings is so easy just go to Config.g change some settings and save
After buying my second printer, a SeeMeCNC Artemis, which comes with Duet board and FW stock, I then upgraded my hot rod Ender 3 to run Duet FW on a Maestro board. I liked that so much that I even installed a Maestro on a Monoprice Mini Delta ... crazy, right ? But I can interact with any of them with any device that can run a browser - phone, tablet, laptop, whatever, and fine tune the configure files with very little effort. So, I'm a fan of the Duet environment and will never run a Marlin machine again.
I just got a berd air system because I'm done messing with garbage part cooling fans. Now onto 200mm/s.
I spy a btt springsteel pei sheet. Mine will be arriving next week. Is it holding up well?
Early days but no issues. Unlikely to make a video since it was sent without prior agreement.
Have you considered building a Voron? The new 2.4 version is compelling.
By chance the Maestro is the perfect board for it...
@@christophmuller3511 they actually recommend an skr 1.4
Angelo Tognon yes. But Duet is also supported and the Maestro with the two stepper extension daughter board is just enough to drive a 2.4. I know since my 2.4 is driven by one.
can you try the gtrv1.0 from bigtreetech 11axis posible
Did you try the online configuration tool for reprap firmware?
Did you not watch the video‽
The Duet2wifi really sucks with an ender 3. The steppermotors are loud. I was told i should have gotten the Maestro instead of the wifi, if i wanted my ender 3 to run silent. I was pissed
reprap was used by RAMPS in the early days of reprap printers. Also, it's currently impossible to order the boards as they've shut down for COVID. That being said, if you're getting rid of your SKR Pro, let me know as I have a stalled project printing PEEK for ventilator parts but we can't use a thermistor in our setup :[
The boards are available through the resellers.
@@christophmuller3511 A lot of whom are out of a stock as well.
TMC2660 on Duet WiFi less louder than A4988 or LV8729 drivers, but they not realy silence like TMC2208 or TMC2209 or others with StealthChop.
If you had uploaded the Duet2and3Firmware-3.0 .zip
file for the 3.0 release you would have gotten the missing file needed for the 3.1.1 update, as well as the DuetWebControl. Same for 3.1.1, the uploading .zip through DWC will update "everything" (but as you didn't have a network connection handy, a direct cable + static IP would have been an option)
I worked it out in the end but the docs definitely need some work. One doc said I could just pop the firmware file on the sd and boot. Others said to delete the existing binary before the upgrade but that wasn't present. The online configurator provides the latest firmware binary with no links or instructions on how to use it.
@@TeachingTech fair enough! if you were to head over to the forum and detail out the issues you found it would help making it easier for the next guy. Both Duet3d and in part he community will quickly make the necessary improvements once its been highlighted.
I purchased a duet maestro for my solidoodle 3. Cost wise i was going to spend similar money on a new board and octoprint. Setting it up on the web interface instead of the sd car was nice and simple
The next Maestro will come with TMC2209 if we are to believe the rumours. With respect to noise, when running the 2204 with stealth chop its virtually silent, belts and fans will be what you hear.
SKR 1.4 Turbo has 120MHz cpu. Table listed it as 100MHz
On the sheet, isnt skr 1.4 turbo 120mhz and not 100 as shown?
Reprap is awesome if you can remember tons of GCodes... I know, I switched to the duet3 6hc last year. Duet3D has an awesome forum community too btw
What for? They all using gcode. Are you retyping gcode produced by Cura to printer?
I think they mean when configuring. Referencing the gcode docs is a lot more frequent. There are more codes plus many more arguments.
@@vladimirseven777 Just saying everything is GCodes... a comment made from experience... Gees no need to be rude :P
@@CountryAireDesign From my experience with Duet wifi I needed gcode to change start and end gcode in Cura from previous settings and to add delay for heating bed. That's all.
Man, is Duet expensive... But if I ever get the chance, I will be building myself a 3D printer using Duet products, because they are very high quality, very useful and they have features that are useful for me. For example, their integrated drivers are so strong. Normally, I'd turn away, but those things are very powerful, and have safety, so the risk of blowing one out is very low. They also have expansion boards, so that also mitigates the loss.
I thank I just stick with the eight bitboards don't know how to do 32-bit boards
besides duet is little over my budget
16:09 i see a printhead faintly, was this a mistake?
Alas I tried to upgrade to a Duet 2 Wifi but the SD lot is not working as it does not recognise any SD cards even tried the tests with the links provided on the duet forum but after a few replies their nothing works so looks like a waste of money.. Will go to a MKS board.
3:25 there’s a mistake, skr 1.4 turbo has 120 MHZ controller
I dont see a huge benefit. I'll stick to having 5 cheap printers built to do a specific job extremely well rather than one $1200 printer.
I think like that about a year ago, but know that I own both worlds, I can tell that the sweet spot it's 400 to 700 dls 3d printer, the cheap ones only give me more work and more time spend=to more money, 1 seckit or another good 3d printer like that and you save time, print A LOT faster saving time, with more filaments option, more reliability, less money spend on repair, clogs etc, and so much more features that helps when you have a farm, like octoprint or duet wifi, autobed leveling, etc...
@@tacoterito22 The only reason you people like you need to spend 400-700 on a 3d printer is that you can't figure out how to make a cheap one work for you. Meanwhile, everyone else in the world does just fine with a $225 ender 3 LOL.
@@tacoterito22 i can see your point however........ I bought a $180 Hictop prusia i3 clone spent an extra $40 on a bigtree tech skr board and $50 on micilanous. I printed out all other part upgrades and attachments for quick swap hotends. With that one printer alone I can print ABS TPU, Nylon, Pla, and most other materials including composite materials. I dont know the exact number of failures I have had on that particular printer but I can say it is rare.
@@obie224 Yeah, you can also make it from china to Russia in a bicycle, the thing is that it would be much more comfortable faster and reliable in a car or a plane, "people like me" that say 400, 500 dls its sweet spot its because it uses his brain to reproduce critical thinking and not point fingers against other people, when you have linear advance or silent stepper motors and you can have the printer in your room without disturbing or wake up the baby, or when you want to print polycarbonate and dont take high risk of melting the PTFE tube that's poison, or losing time stretching the belts or when you have to do the procedure to changes nozzles and dont have a cheap mosquito clone to do it easily, then you realize that you save a lot of time and you gain much better print quality, you never have to change nozzle because its not going to wear out (hardened nozzles), you can do much faster prints at 180m/s because of the much better Kinnematics without losing quality and you get to a point where you can print a lot more materials that what an actual ender stock let you, much better power supply that reduces the possibility of damaging the printer and have much more reliable voltages, and so many things more, then you will see my point and stop bean "like that"
@@thedesigns9570 Yes i never say it could not be done, what i meant with sweet spot its because a 400/500 dls printer like a V-king, have much better kinematics, lets you print bigger things, you can print much faster 180 m/s easy, lets you change nozzle with a cold hotend (good mosquito clone), lets you print all sort of high temp filaments, that's why i say its the sweet spot! not that you cant have a good printer with 200 dls
Once you spend some time with RRF, it's really really hard to go back to Marlin. I've got duet boards on two printers and a CNC.
You forgot to replace 100 MHz with 120 MHz on one of the LPC1769 in the comparison table (SKR v1.4 Turbo). And do not call SRAM for just "memory" when multiple memory types are listed.
Correct on the MHz. Look at how much information is on the table, do you think it would be improved by adding more? People want a brief overview, details such as the type of RAM aren't important to them. Anyone like yourself with enough knowledge to know the difference doesn't need my table.
cool video. thanks
Apparently it is possible to run RepRap on SKR 1.3 and 1.4.
Video coming.