AC mains powered bed guide: Super fast heated bed performance - UPDATED
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- เผยแพร่เมื่อ 29 ก.ย. 2019
- My Ender 5 heated bed was getting too slow when heating up to the 100 degrees C plus I need to print the high temp filaments I have in mind. Therefore I decided to install and AC/mains heated bed and SSR to switch it. It used to take just under 15 minutes to reach 120 deg C, but now does it in under 2 minutes. A huge improvement! Not every printer needs it, but for those that have slow heated beds, this is a game changer. I will be adding a new mains powered chamber heater next, then the printer will be complete.
Safety warning: Mains electricity is high voltage and can kill you. Consult a professional before attempting these procedures.
Ender 3/5 bed from Aliexpress (featured in this video): s.click.aliexpress.com/e/mzwFFLCk
CR10 Keenovo bed from Amazon: amzn.to/30edZdq
Thermal Fuse 133degC from Jaycar: www.jaycar.com.au/133oc-therm...
SSR from Jaycar: www.jaycar.com.au/solid-state...
RCD wiki: simple.wikipedia.org/wiki/Res...
Determining fake SSR article: protosupplies.com/inferior-co...
Fake SSR disassembled: • Teardown of an eBay 25...
Earthing guide for printers with moving Y axis: • Tevo Tornado strain re...
My SSR cover on Thingiverse: www.thingiverse.com/thing:388...
Marlin PID autotune reference: marlinfw.org/docs/gcode/M303.html
Marlin store bed PID Values reference: marlinfw.org/docs/gcode/M304.html
Marlin store EEPROM settings reference: marlinfw.org/docs/gcode/M500.html
Buy quality and affordable filament from X3D. Buy 3, get 1 free and a free sample pack with every order: www.x3d.com.au
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This video was previously released with a process in line with what 3D printer manufacturers include on their machines with AC heated beds. Early on it was very clear that my viewers expected a higher standard. The feedback was very constructive, rather than nasty, which I appreciate tremendously. Special thanks to people like Tim from TH3D and Chris Egan for listing their suggestions point by point in a constructive way.
I’ve included just about everything people suggested. I hope this guide is now up to standard.
The standards for mains wiring in houses varies a lot around the world, hence the disclaimer to consult a professional. Just because something is safe for me doesn’t mean it’s safe for you.
Your videos are awesome I'm a pretty technical guy and I have learned a huge amount from them. I don't think anything in the previous version was in any way dangerous. But that you acted in such a responsible way is a huge credit to you. Integrity is so rare now.
Hot beds are back on the menu boys! Thanks for revising this video, I really want to do this but want to be really really safe about it too.
can we bake a cake with that 750W heater if we put insulator on top?
This is an excellent guide and it reminds me I need to do a couple things on my AC heated bed install. Thank you for being thorough. Also, consider adding something about adding an inline circuit breaker, such that the bed never exceeds the rated amperage. I do not have my heated bed here with me now, but I believe mine should be limited to 6A. Also, if you do measure the amperage at the max power of 255 and find that it is too high, perhaps that would be the setting to dial down to make sure you are below the 6A? (Someone more experienced with these than I might be able to chime in... I believe the 255 is a duty cycle of 100% while a lower value is a lower duty cycle.... duty cycle and amperage are not the same thing, but you could be reducing the sustained current that way.)
Best would be to use double switch SSR or two, so you can switch of both N and L, as with the European security plugs can be turned, so you actually doesn't know which is N and L when you plug it in.
But yes, usually one only switch one of L off, and it still break the power circuit even if the power plug is twisted 180 degrees.
One could/should also use a earth security breaker between socket and the power plug, so it will break if there are any current in the earth wire.
This is a good tutorial but I would recommend one addition. The thermal fuses are usually rated with holding temp and functioning temp. The fuse you're using is an NEC Schott SF129E. The holding temp is rated at 118°C, this is the max temp at which the fuse will not fail under operating conditions (rated at 168hrs). The 133°C rating is the temperature where it will reliably open. What this means is that between 119-133°C, this fuse may or may not open. So if you're running temps close to 120°C you may need to bump up to the next size of SF139E which has a holding temp of 127°C and functioning temp of 142°C. I'd personally go with the slightly larger one anyways as cork doesn't start to degrade till ~200°C and gives you a little more wiggle room for more exotic materials.
This!
I was very surprised by the fuse Voron specifies for the V2.4, it's an AliExpress special and it doesn't specify any of that. Just "125°C", a firmware limit of 120°C, and users often have issues with it failing. I replaced mine with a 128°C holding temp, 152°C functioning temp.
Great job with the updates, safety discussion, and added resources. Your work is the gold standard for 3DP TH-cam videos.
Again: The best availlable explanation with extremely well made graphical support
I believe that this upgrade will also take a lot of stress off of the printer’s power supply and keep things running a lot cooler in the control box. So this is also a longevity upgrade to the printer. You make amazing TH-cam videos!!! I have a Ender 5 Pro, in the middle of a bunch of upgrades, including this one.
Very good video, and great improvements. I was one of the previous commenters, I just wanted to tell you to keep up the good work and videos - new patreon supporter too.
Some safety notes:
- use high strand count or energy chain rated cables, possibly in energy chain.
- You SHOULD wire a distinct earth to the metal carrier plate of the bed. Linear bearings and trapezoidal screws are not meant to handle earth fault current. In theory, every metal part that can get in contact with mains voltage should be earthed by wire, not by mounting screws.
- it is recommended to add thermal fuse to both leads of the pad. It depends. In many EU countries the Schuko plug is reversible, so you can not guarantee which lead is live. In those (rare) cases that the pad gets an earth short just at the fused side, but it happens that the other is the live feed, it will continue heating until meltdown. RCD/GFCI will trip however, if you have.
- Relay is inadequate for high frequency PID control, and low frequency PWM is inadequate for stable temperature at this power. So SSR is the only sensible choice.
- Don't cheap out on SSR. If it fails, it most likely fail short, and only the thermal fuse will stop it. Bad enough. For this reason, do not even think leaving out the thermal fuse...
Order plenty of spares, to lower the temptation to run without one, in case it blows during PID tuning...
Thank you for the correct information, tuning and hacking is fine so long it's all safe !!!
Is your third note correct? If the thermal fuse pops there's no way for the bed to heat out of control since there is no complete circuit anymore.
@@TheArachnoBot If one of the thermal fuses doesn't pop, then you still have the other, which hopefully works.
It is so freaking good to see this video published. This means that manufacturers will clean up their act, and DIYers truly see an example how to best use AC without killing themselves :D
Thanks, for deleting the old one and making that update, that's really amazing !
Well done! Lots of good info on SSRs, AC Mains wiring, etc. I've already pointed a few folks to this video!
I finally made the switch to a mains powered bed.... AMAZING! Thanks for the helpful video.
Thanks for this! My AC bed heater came with a bang-bang style bed heater controller, and it gave me terrible layer lines when powering on and off. I replaced that controller with an SSR and did a PID tune, and it's SO much better now.
Superb guide. Probably the best ac heatbed video guide out there
It probably got deleted when you pulled the last video so I'll say it again.
These SSR devices are NOT like regular mechanical relays. There will still be some leakage current on the bed heater as well as full mains voltage depending on where you check.
Glad you got help from Tim at TH3D. He convinced me to replace the "40A" labeled SSRs on my water heater w/ a pair of his (true) 25A-rated units. My 40s never got above 100F, but it's likely I've been running 17A through a 12A silicon device and the heatsink was saving it from a meltdown.
Thank you for this tutorial. Im setting this up for the Tronxy X5S. The 12V stock heater is totally inadequate. The 24V with external mosfet mod is fine but the cheap power supplies to run it are inadequate. I had one fail from cold solder input on the mains input. After fixing it later the NTC inrush limiter blew, probably from being banged on and off for days on end. I really appreciate your attention to safety in this video.
Awesome update Michael.
I had issues with my E3 bed fluctuating and had to turn on PID tuning for it. Good tip for people who have issues like that!
Thanks for the updated video. Great community work and top notch reaction to critics from your side!
You did an awesome job, going above and beyond what any YT creator would normally do. I just hope no one starts the old -- cork is a fire hazard nonsense again...sigh...can't please everyone. I actually got an idea how to improve my SSR setups from your video -- awesome work!
Thanks to this video I'm now waiting on my hotend to catch up.....and I'm ok with that! Great content Michael! Keep it coming
Great video just waiting on chamber heater update!
Outstanding , I watch your channel all the time. Talented teacher
Great work on the videos. I have done this upgrade on my CR10-S4 about 8 months ago using the the keenovo mat mentioned in your video, which works amazing. But i found that cork was not that great to keep heat in. I ordered from aliexpress some ceramic Insulation and glued it to the back. Helped alot with the mat turning on and off alot. Keep the videos coming.
I know it's a year later but i'm looking at the S4 but I only really print PETG so the bed only getting to 60C stock is a concern. with the Keenovo can you get it up to 80C?
Glad to see that you took the suggestions under advisement. No matter what you show someone will have a difference of opinion when it comes to working with mains power. At the end of the day one can choose to use a mains heated bed or not. My rule of thumb is if you are the least bit unsettled about it, then it's a good idea not to do it.
I agree. Hopefully the disclaimer at the start scares off anyone sitting on the fence.
awesome video!!! Subscribed! I had the fluctuation issue as you did but when I set up my silicone heater I didn't know about PIDTempbed! I'll be updating this when I do my Marlin 2.0 update (still running Marlin 1.1.0)
finally a video that pinpoints everything using and connecting an SSR
Wow thanks a lot for this clear tutorial! i just finished modified my Geeetech A10 and it work wonderfully !!awesome!
Thx so much for all your content!
This is a great tutorial! Thanks for all informative videos you put on Michael! Just got my printer upgraded with AC bed after being fed up with waiting 15+ minutes to get to ~100 deg. C before print even starts. There is one side effect, though, depending on what print surface you're using. If that is glass, like in my case, there is considerable lag before the glass heats up nearly as close as what the bed thermistor reads. Starting from room temperature I can hit 100 C in about the same time as on the video, but the glass surface would be as much as 30 degrees lower than desired at the first minute or two of the print, which is obviously not good. After a minute or two, glass "catches up" to around 10-15 degrees difference (in my case). Measuring the aluminum bed where the heating pad is adhered to - difference is 3-4 degrees (accurate reading). I ended up adding delay in Marlin firmware to give a chance of the print surface to catch up with the bed by altering "TEMP_BED_RESIDENCY_TIME" value in configuration.h to 60 seconds which delays M109 command by a minute after the bed reading reaches the desired temperature. This helps a bit with the surface temperature inaccuracy (and bed adhesion with some materials), and heating the bed up is still considerably faster compared to before the upgrade. I plan to experiment by adding thermo-conductive pad between the glass and the bed surface to see if I can get the lag and temperature difference be reduced a bit.
If I don't have a Ac hot bed and plug to Ac line can it catfire?
Tip to solder the thermal fuse. Put the fuse underwater in a glass, leaving a bit outside the water to solder (I used a glass of water with clay on the bottom to stick the fuse in). In that way the fuse will be cooled by the water.
Good information about SSR, too many people buy the cheapos not understanding the risks.
@Aaron Morrow partly the cheaper (and knock off) SSR may have leakage current and dont 100% turn off, mains voltage is something i dont mess around with. Im more of a better safe than sorry kind of person and would rather buy a known brand from a reputable dealer
I recognize that t-shirt. Nice!
Also, Australia is far from the only 220V country.
Great guide, will defenitely do this one day.
Truly brilliant video. Knowledgeable and full of hard to find information. It would take me a month to google all these solutions on the web.
A very nicely performed mod
Looking good, Im really impressed with the update.
totally off topic what happened to the relay covers? is that the bottom of the first layer?
they would of been cooler with your logo on them, bright colour and a warning :)
I did this to my CR10 since the huge bead takes FOREVER to get to temp. Worth every penny! I get to 60C in less than a minute!
Cr10, imagine how I feel with a cr10s5, literally has a cr10s heater bed in the center, doesnt even cover the whole bed. Takes an eternity to reach 40, forget 60! You look at it and it loses 10degrees and trips out
SAFETY WARNING : At 12:00 you mention that in Australia RCD installation is standard, that is, if your house was built AFTER 1991. Might seem a long time ago, but my house was built in 1988, so the only RCDs are the one I installed in my workshop.
Nice vid, thank you Michael. Use flux for soldering and desoldering, difference of night and day. My Ender 5+ has the BTT high power mosfet and 600w meanwell, 24v. Not bad, takes 5 to 6 minutes I think. AC is better, but you have to know what you’re doing, I completely agree. Very good video for the general printing public. I enjoyed it in any case, especially the pitfall warning for the cheap relay. For sure people don’t want to find out the wrong way it fuses itself stuck in the on position if it fails.
I bought all this stuff 5 years ago and never actually installed it. In my defense we had a kid and got busy living life! I'm going to have to see what I did with those parts...
Good explication, my printer it works with de new 110VAC 300X300mm bed, thank you for your tutorial, greetings from Mexico
Great video! There’s one thing noticed when you pointed out what control voltage you need. The control is the voltage that turns the relay on and off. So you’d need 12 or 24vDC.
The ones in this video will accept anything from 4 to 32V DC.
So if my mains is 220v using ssr I can use 110v heat bed?
@@Farivar313 In theory you could, if you limit the PWM to less than 25% to keep the max wattage the same.
Great instructions. Very informative.
so good to the community
One minute? that's all done? I cannot believe Michael is so quick. He pulls all the juice just under the minute. When the Australian lovers do not drink too much beer and fail the job, they... well... pull the heat too quickly :) We will still honor your others tech skills Michael !!!!!!!! but not this special one.
Really Great video. You explained everything in really calm manner and it helps a lot !
Thanks for this, my first printer was the Anycubic i3 Mega, very pleased with that after 2 years so bought the Mega Zero recently for the extra height. I ordered an i3 heated bed that will need some modification but this was useful :)
Did you manage to find an AC heated bed matching the i3 Mega(-S) ? Should be 24x22, most of them are more like 20x20 cm.
@@Lidocain777 I stopped looking but thanks for the reminder i need to do that this month so i can return the wrong one that i got! I'll keep ya posted.
This is almost exactly what I was looking for. The exception is how would I change the settings in Klipper since I'm using the Creality Sonic? Thanks!
I need to do this to my CR-10S S5. It will take 15 minutes to reach 60C and cannot go above 65C. Thank you for the tutorial.
My s5 bed now reaches 60 faster then the nozzle.
Excellent and very helpful. Thank you!!!!!
Great stuff! As I'm in the process of building my own printer soon(tm), I'd very much like to see a test of the thermal fuse. I know I will probably do my own testing when time comes, but It could be interesting for others aswell, might even be a recommended safety upgrade for the stock bed. Bonus would be to research if there are viable options for thermal fuses for hotends?
You can buy thermal fuses in all kinds of temps. They are in many things and rarely blow but they are a great safety feature.
Hi! Great video! Do you think this is usable on a anycubic megazero?
Love your vids. Just got my new Ender 3 S1 Pro. I've set it up, switched it on and have been levelling the bed only to realise that my heat bed doesn't seem to heat up?
The home screen stays at 21 degrees and it's been over an hour now. Faulty unit out of the box?
With regards to cable fatigue, flexible building wire with a high strand count should be used as it has less "memory".
Hey I just upgraded my Ender 5 Pro with a Kenova 350W, DC24V . It has the cutouts for the screws as they sell a specific one (actually two - also a 250W version) for the ender 3 which has the same bed size and screw locations. It looks similar your AC one and heats up really quickly to 70 Deg C with a thicker Al plate (6mm). Haven't yet tried to heat up to higher temp yet but will do so once I fit a mosfet. Of course, I upgraded my power supply from 350W 24V to a Meanwell HRP-600W-24V so that I would have enough power for the bed at higher temp. The mosfet will be connected to the bed to make sure I don't fry the control board (a BTT Octopus 1.1). I think it will work fast at higher temp. but I wish I saw your video before I went down this route. However, it must be working well because I get the same temperature oscillations with the standard bang- bang heating and will update the firmware with the bed PID as you have suggested in the video.
I love all your youtube videos as they are very clear and also the Aussie accent (but I am biased being Aussie myself).
Proud owner of an Ender 5 Pro with extended bed Dual Z axis, Bondtec DDX extruder, copperhead hot end (300 deg C), linear railed X and Y, Kenova hotbed, BTT smart filament sensor, BTT octopus 1.1, raspberry PI 4B OCTOPRINT ready with BTT TFT70 touch screen. Fully working Marlin firmware and printing as I type.
Tou should be promoting keenevo silicone heat beds. They are highly reliable, fairly priced, will make any size you ask 800x800? No problem 50x50? No problem. And they have an amazing warranty/return policy. I just noticed you did mention them!! Which is awesome lol idk i don’t trust anyone but keenevo and as i said any size you want theyll make for you.
Hi - as usual I follow your videos and appreciate them. I would have soldered the thermal fuse (or not considered at all) had I not seen your video. FWIW, I bought a heat shrink type of connector with solder - it went alright, but not great and I don't recommend that (even with my heatgun at 480 c it was a real challenge, and I didn't want that fuse over heating). I looked at butt connectors at my local big box store, and saw they were only good to about 75c, so I might suggest a caveat - that if folks are to use them, check the thermal limits - I found some on amazon that said the minimal shrink is at 80c, and they are good to about 130 which I think are fine for our purposes. I also plan to dial down the max settings in Marlin to 120 so I don't run afoul of the fuse, and that should be fine for the bullet connector. Great video as always!
Why is soldering the fuse a bad idea? Because it may pop during soldering, or is there any other reason?
EDIT: Oh, solder will melt in >200C temps, is that the reason?
Thank you for sharing your expert, It was a nightmare for my CR-10 how long it takes to heat the bed, I bought a new heat bed 750w 220v and I upgraded my bed after your video, it was extremely helpful for me, but can you make a video how to install the hotend also if you don't mind, I will be appreciate it, because also it will help others.
I've had mine f or 6 months... worked great for PLA or low heat settings. As soon as I went to ABS or 100 C bed temps, this thing imploded. Now the outer edges are 130-140 C while at the same time the center is 94-100 C ... and from the reviews on Amazon (that I failed to read) I'm not the only one.
Have you ever considered doing a test on fire extinguisher balls? I had not heard of them till today but they are very very interesting and could be a useful safety feature mounted above your printer. Not a guarantee by any means but worth having. Only downside I can see is that they only work if touched by flame, smoke and heat do not set them off, but seriously consider getting some, its not perfect but a worthwhile option perhaps, only issue I can see is the original make, Exide I think is far superior to the cheaper makes such as AFO, AFC I think they are , 3 times the price for the Exide but is the more expensive one overkill, would the cheaper one do the job? Printers are not very large after all.
What do you think or do you think covering this might get too much negativity for covering it.
Paul Milne
Super late little tip here, but with all connectors like the white one you used for the PCB they usually have a way to cleanly take out the cable and insert new ones. You just need to get the right size insert for the cables to snap in with the little part that sticks out. (To remove them, you push in that little metal part you see on the underside of the connector for each cable and pull out the cable at the same time.
Took me ages to figure this out so I figured Id let people know this. You can buy new inserts or whatever they're called at any hardware/electronics shop for cents
Have you done this to your tevo tornado? Was thinking about it but not sure if I really need it for PETG and TGlase.
How did you actually do the Thermal fuse ferrule connection? did you run both the thermal fuse wire? @5:20 Did you use a ferrule on both sides (one on ssr wire connection, another on the fuse), with the heat shrink on the top the only thing stopping it from bending?
Not sure if this is a new feature of Marlin or if it was available 3 years ago, but when doing the PID autotune, you can specify "U1" to load the PID values into memory, this saves having to enter them in. You still need to save the memory to EEPROM, but it means only two commands now:
M303 C5 E-1 S100 U1
M500
with all the extra thickness added to the bottom of the bed does it create problems with the springs being very compressed to get the top of the bed to the correct height ?
Hi have you found the cr10-max bed to get hot enough for abs etc what watt pad is fitted standard ? Ive tested mine with a lazer temp gauge get up to 105 slowley but is 12 deg out 93 at the middle and can be 60-80 around the edges, is there an up grade quicker pad for that model ? will be building an enclosure for it as well.
I know this video is several years old, and I am hoping you may see it and help expand some information you provided. I recently purchased an Ender 3V2. The machine is great, but I quickly expanded it with all sorts of upgrades including flashing to one of the latest EPROM updates. The latest update is the Ender Extender 400x400x520 package and the large AC heat pad. I have everything put back together and mechanically working thanks to your Ender Extender video and this video on the AC heat pad. Thank you for those. So the question - you mention updating the firmware. I'm having trouble finding how to do this. Any suggestions or some direction where I can find out how to do this would be very much appreciated.
Thanks,
Todd
Thx a lot for this tutorial!
How to determinate the positive and negative of the bed please?
Australia is AC230 v 50 hertz no neg or positive... need to make sure it is an AC not DC bed..
Would it be possible the thermistor option #75 was more adequate than #11 in Marlin Configuration.h?
Great video as usual, too scary for me though
Nice video
Naming and shaming: Creality Ender 5 Plus or more accurately, the TFT 35 v3. I recently downgraded(?) to the SKR Mini E3 V1.2 on my Ender 5+. I also added my TFT35 to the case. The only time it has issues is when the bed is heating. I have tried adding capacitors on the 24v and the 5v bus lines to no avail. I am considering this upgrade for the sake of using my TFT, but the point might be mute because I am now using a dedicated Octopi.
The Artillery Sidewinder X1 heats up quickly thanks to its 230V but the heat distribution is very uneven. The temp is relatively accurate within a 15cm circle in the middle but tapers off from there to the sides where it's easily 10C less.
Is there any superior quality heating element I can buy to replace the stock one? (there's lots on AliExpress, but which one is "the best"?)
my newest 3d printer has the issue of it was sent with a giant bed and a underrated psu. its a flsun cube and that bed it has is thirsty for those watts
I've just done this on my cr10 yep gets to 80 degrees in under a min on the display, but still needs time to propagate through my mirror on the bed, maybe time to look for a different print surface.
7:41 Will the only performace issue be it heating up slower, or will it also be harder to maintain a temperature? I'm building a printer and am wonder if I can just do this for simplicity at first, then later wire up the SSR to the power supply.
Or, would it be better to just buy a 24V heater pad?
Hello. Is it necessary to control phase with ssr? Because in europe we have plugs you can turn around and than will be neutral connected to ssr. Hope you understand the question, thanks.
I have an Artillery Sidewinder X1v4. I am putting together a DIY 3D printer from scrape and spare items that I have. And I would like to wire it similar to the X1. Is there a schematic, that you know about, on of how the SSR should be wired up that I could follow without taking my X1 apart?
What kind of butt connector did you use for the fuse? Was it 100C max? if so, how could this connector be used under the bed?
I had an old printrbot plus with the wood frame that could've used this
Hi, I just finished this mod on my CR-10S. Now the printer beeps consistently until it reaches a given temperature (have not discovered the pattern, or threshold at which the beep stops). Is this a Firmware Issue? I have Marlin 1.1.bugfix installed. Insights would be greatly appreciated.
Does Cr-10 Keenowo heated bed holes fit for ender 3 ones? I ordered Ender extender, but for 400x400 bed silicone is no holes, where to buy such who already have holes or just to take smaller one (as this one in video for CR10?).
I hit you pretty hard on the last Vid. (This look a lot better)
I apologize if this question has already been answered but I couldn’t find a thread in the comments that mentions this:
If I’m wiring this up in Canada with 110v mains instead of 240v…would you recommend an inline fuse and if so what size?
Thanks and know YOU are appreciated!
Wouldn't you want to put the thermal fuse on the side going into the ssr so if it fails its not being fed power and eventually burn it would be a bit more wiring but I feel itll.add to the overall safety and be worth it
Hi have you seen one off he shelf for the cr10-max ?
Caution with Ender 3 S1 Pro - there is marginal clearance to the Y axis motor. If adding this to the bottom of the existing heater bed, it will foul on this motor (as the stock one already fouls if you screw down the bed). Whilst you could raise the bed, you may find the springs then are so loose to achieve the clearance that the bed isn't robustly secured. I can't see this working myself. Yes an E3 S1 Pro has an AC heated bed, but the coverage of the heater doesn't cover all of the bed. This causes issues with adhesion towards its edges.
What software are you using to edit firmware ? Thanks
For faster heating I need only heater with smaller resistance or need also that garbage around?
I hooked mine up the way you indicated but it keeps blowing fuses on the printer switch. Which is better than blowing my board up but I don't know enough about electrical engineering to know why it's getting overloaded.
Can I use the same approach on a cr10 but with an external 24v psu and ssr?
I have a aluminium anycubic 300x300 mm hot bed plugged with solidstate relay and power supply about 500w it don't work. The whatchdog time blocked the 3 d printer after 1 minute. Do you think it's better use a Ac connection directly in the plug connector 220 volts?
My Little Kingroon KP3S could use this, Im trying to sort it for ABS putting it in a enclosure feeding the main board cool air from below the printer. My problem... is the PEI plate slipping on the magnetic bed at high heats. Slightest curl up and game over. Is clamping the PEI sheet the only option here?
Hey Michael, what specific tape are you using to stick your tempature fuse to the bottom of your silicone heating element, as I've tried kapton tape, and high temp insulation tape and it just won't stick, is there a specific adhisive key word I'm looking for when buying? Cheers!
I too would like to know the type of tape that actually sticks to the bottom of the AC Bed mat.
Nothing sticks to it.
I used high temperature silicone to stick it to the bottom of the silicone bed
Have you ever heard of CG SSR ? model ZGT-25DA from amzon?
My creality Cr10 S5 used to take 30minutes to reach 70c for PETG and now it takes under 5 minutes.
I should warn you. 1. The temperature on thermistor will not correspond to temperature of the bed surface. Thermal mate heats really fast, but it is not transferring it's heat that fast to aluminium bed, especially if you use glass over it. Measure temperature of the bed with remote thermometer to check actual bed surface temperature.
2. You must NOT use any thermistor that is not connected to thermal mate, because in such case you can and will easily burn thermal mate that can cause AC voltage line shortcircuit and fire or electrical hazard. Reason - thermal mate heats a lot faster than print bed surface.
3. There can be temperature deviations across thermal mate. Check it with remote thermometer. Visually can be recognizable by looking for bubbles on mate. It starts to grow hump under surface.
In my case I use both thermal mate(600W) and heated bed itself(12V). With 300*200 aluminium bed with 3mm glass on it I still wait till glass surface gets to proper temperature for several minutes after the reported temperature already reached. And my mate in one location have temperature over 20C more than reported by thermistor.
So, I recommend you to consider turning you heated bed earlier and do not mess with SSR and this things. Or, at least, use thermal mate with low power(less Watt). I my case 600W really too much. Mate heats instantly and it takes long time to proper heat all my layers of a bed.
I am wondering whether it wouldn't make sense to add an extra ground wire to the bed for extra safety...
is there any way to find the PID setings without using octoprint?
I've been contemplating upgrading to a 240V bed, I have a Tevo Tarantula Pro and it struggles to get to 100 degrees, even though the printer claims it can. After about 85 ish, it starts taking forever and then errors out. I am going to go buy a 240V one now. Also good to know I can get the SSR from Jaycar :) I would have probably gone to Middy's or somewhere like that.
Thanks :)
Make sure the firmware is not pmw-ing the bed, limiting. For example, Klipper sets bed max_power to 0.6. I had the same issue as you. Had to up mine to 0.85 to get it to warm up in 10 minutes or so. People say even a setting of 1.0 is safe, but 0.85 works fine.
Good video.
Only thing I'd recommend is not buying anything from jaycar after what they pulled with Freetronics. I'd also say the SSR from jaycar may not be from a reputable brand/supplier.