SKR v1.3 Mainboard Install - TMC2208 - Chris's Basement
ฝัง
- เผยแพร่เมื่อ 22 พ.ค. 2024
- In this one, we install the SKR 1.3 mainboard. There is so much talk about 32bit boards. More videos on this topic to come.
00:00 Intro
01:27 Printer Overview
07:57 SKR 1.3 Hardware Install
12:41 Configuration
26:32 2208 in UART Mode
30:17 Conclusion
Link to SKR 1.3 Aliexpress Affiliate:
s.click.aliexpress.com/e/_AqIYDx
Link to SKR mini E3 Aliexpress Affiliate:
s.click.aliexpress.com/e/_A9ekU1
TMC2209 drivers Aliexpress Affiliate:
s.click.aliexpress.com/e/_9uP6O5
These are affiliate links and take you to Amazon.
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2208 drivers:
geni.us/GKg0FA
2209 drivers:
geni.us/fKB2AlR
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Atom editor:
atom.io/
How to install 32bit Marlin:
• 32bit Marlin 2.0 - RE-...
Marlin website:
marlinfw.org/meta/download/
Git site link:
git-scm.com/downloads
Platform IO install:
docs.platformio.org/en/latest/...
Klang download:
llvm.org/releases/download.html
Pronterface control software: www.pronterface.com/
Working code for SKR 1.3:
drive.google.com/open?id=11dL...
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Superb video as always Chris, thank you. Especially since I am seriously considering the SKR 1.3 and 2208's for my Borg. Looking forward to more videos on this combo.
Thanks Spike! More to come.
What a great video! Thank you very much. Please make more videos covering the SKR v1.3 and TMC drivers!
Hey thanks! Will do!
Awesomely detailed video on connecting and configuring! Thanks for all the hard work putting it all together.
Thanks for watching.
Chris - Thank you for this excellent video. By following this the steps that you outline I have just finished upgrading my Anycubic Kossel Plus to 32 bit SKR1.3 with TMC2208's. Just doing some simple test prints, but at this point I am amazed at how quiet the printer is with the 2208's. Need to finish tuning, and really want to see the effect on the print quality, and speed. I look forward to more content on the SKR v1.3! Thanks again!
Awesome Mark! Glad I could help out.
Quick PS. Just printed a couple of Benchies one at .2 and the other at .1 layer height. Both are perfect! Really recommend this upgrade. A few things to note though:
1) The polarity of the power input screw block is opposite from the other screw terminals for the heaters. Red on the LEFT for the power. And the screening is small and hard to see especially if there are a bunch of other wires already connected and getting in the way. I learned this the hard way. But the fuse did blow and protect the board, so was just out a buck for a new fuse.
2) JST connectors are a big pain to crimp. If I end up doing this again, I think that I might get some JST cables, and the solder them to the limit switches rather than try to crimp on new connectors.
This is going to be so handy in a few days, I just ordered the SKR V1.3 and the TMC2130 SPI, thanks for this!
Nice Alex, glad to help!
Just moved to 32 bit, SKR1.3/2208 and tft35. Watched a ton of TH-cam vids but yours helped me the most, thanks for that.
Straight into it without a huge intro, love the drum solo, your videos move at a decent pace.
Thanks Bob, glad they are helpful.
Awesome thanks Chris 👍 I’ve had an skr 1.3 sitting on my desk for a couple weeks, gonna have to give it a shot
Do it! Thanks for watching.
Great video Chris! This is exactly what intermediate tinkerers want. Keep up the good work!
Thanks! Will do!
My combo is on it's way so thanks for making this video! I'm looking forward to seeing other videos with the SKR 1.3 board.
Awesome! Thanks for watching!
@@ChrisRiley Oh my... I'm an idiot. Got my board today however I thought I had ordered the 1.3 but in fact it is a 1.1 Mini. Cute little board. It will be used on the Ender 3 after I figure out how to set it up.
@@Leos-World I think the 1.1 should be pretty close to this one, just no uart and spi I think.
Great Video Chris, I bought one of these boards for my next printer project ( Up scaled HyperCube ). I really enjoyed your run thru of the basic config on your "Log" printer.
Great! I am glad you enjoyed it. Thanks for watching!
Great Job with this one. That was a lot to cover! Good to see nice and cheap 32bit boards on the market with a good feature set.
Thanks Mike, hopefully I'll get to a lot more on 32bit.
I have the SKR v1.3 board and TMC2208s on the way and found this video. Thank you for being so thorough and making this excellent walk through.
My only suggestion is maybe place timestamps to different sections of the video in the description.
Right on man, thanks for the suggestion.
@@ChrisRiley When I hit the check mark to build it says it failed and every board that says skip for you says fail for me. But the LPC1768 and LPC1769 say success. Any suggestions?
The problem was fixed by restarting the computer and then re-downloading the firmware and starting all over.
Glad that fixed it.
Dude. Thumbs up and a sub. I've only seen a couple of you videos, but they all seem to be very informative. Thank you taking your time to do these!
Thanks Nick and thanks for the sub.
killing it like usual! everything i want to do you already have! appreciate the work man, keep it up
Thanks Andrew!
Another excellent video and the timing could not have been better. I received my SKR board last week and it will be going in to the CoreXY I'm building.
Awesome! Glad it helped you.
Thank you so much for testing it!! I was really considering this board but lack of info was making a pain
Thanks for watching!
Thank you for posting this. I bought one of these 'for a rainy day', and was looking for some good info.
Happy to help. Thanks
Dude, thank you so much for making all these videos. You always do a great job!!
You are very welcome! Thanks for watching!
I just bought this combo but haven’t set up yet. Thank you for your great timing!
Great John, have fun!
This is fenomenal! Thank you very much for this review. I have been thinking of getting this SKR board for a while now.. but just as you have pointed out.. can not really reach those speeds on my cartesian printer reliably for a good print quality. Thumbs up Chris! Really my favourite 3D printing hardware channel.
Thanks so much! Glad you like the content.
Wow so much great information in 1 video. Thank You Chris.
Thanks man! I got to get caught up on your robot videos.
Another great TUT ! 32 bit boards are here to stay ! Thanks for making this one Chris !!!
Thanks Ron, your continued support is always appreciated.
You can’t find better content that is step by step. Thank you!
Thanks Chris! It's always good to have another Chris on board. :)
These videos are so helpful, it's very much appreciated.
Great, glad you like them!
Hey Chris, Thanks so much for another great video! This will be an excellent update for my delta.
Thanks Todd, yes that should work out well.
Perfect timing. I recently received my SKR 1.3 board to fit in my Anet E10 but haven't had chance to try it out yet. This would be fun lol
Awesome Andy! Have fun.
The best walkthroughs on YT period. Thanks a lot!
Thank you!
Yes! I was hoping you would do a video on this board. Thanks!
You bet Scott!
Simply the best SKR installation video ! Many Thanks
Thank you!
Thanks Chris! You did a great job of putting this together.
Thanks
Your channel is boon to 3D printing world, please keep posting wonderful videos like this!!!
Thank you! I will do my best.
i just command my skr v1.3 on amazon with your description and explanation are clear great work Chris :)
Nice! Thanks Steeve!
Was just looking for the jumper settings for the 2208's in stand alone, thanks for the video.
No problem 👍
Hell yeah, this board rocks ! I've got it working few weeks ago and boy oh boy, its sweet as honey. I know it doesn't have all the features like a duet, but with that price its already a steal.
I'm glad it's working out.
Wow awesome little board!! nice review Chris!
Thanks Steeve!
Thanks Chris, nice video! I bought skr 1.3, tft 35, 2208 uart v3 and bltouch v3. Waiting for upcoming videos to learn from you and how to set up this board for full enjoy
Thanks, stay tuned,
Hello Chris, Happy Wednesday! Great video! I may try this on my Anet A8!
Hey Charlie, It's so affordable, why not.
Hei man, great vid as always... just installed this board myself,loving it so far....
Great! Seems to be pretty good so far.
@@ChrisRiley Must stay that fine tuning is a PITA... keep having less results then with my 4988 drivers.. ( hint: a video perhaps :) with voltage adjustment in uart mode )
This is going to save me some time this weekend. Thanks for the info.
Awesome! Good luck on your install!
Another Great Video Chris. Thanks for the content.
Thanks for watching, as always Robert!
Outstanging. Just bought one of these boards for a new build. Thanks for the tips.
Thanks for watching!
Literally just bought an SKR board yesterday for an Ender 3 upgrade, so you gained a Patreon supporter.
Thanks so much for the support!
@@ChrisRiley I'd also been procrastinating the switch to platformio for arduino/esp projects, your video showed how easy it is to get up and going on it so thanks for that too (though I prefer vscode).
Thanks, Chris. Finally proper and specific movie about skr 1.3 on YT. Now I'm waiting about 2130 SPI MODE config. TMC2208 and TMC2130 will have a lot of views specific on ender3.
You;re very welcome. Yes, 2130's should be pretty similar, just different jumpers.
Very nice informative video Chris! I did not know your channel from before but will follow along as I am all about technical 3d printing nerdly stuff as I design 3d printers
Thanks! Glad you like it.
@@ChrisRiley If you also could check speed printing from octoprint that would be nice. This is a buffer issue in the firmware and not processor as I understand so we might see studder also here?
@@PRO3DESIGN For sure, that is one of the main points I want to test.
Great board! I really enjoyed. My FlyingBear Tornado 1 got a new life.
I'm glad I could help
Great video Chris, this should help alot of people out!
Thanks Simmo, I hope so.
Great video. Really fancy getting this board to upgrade my Anet A8
Thanks! It's so affordable, why not. ;)
@@ChrisRiley Exactly, I just ordered one along with some A4988's (for now). Will upgrade to TMC's later on. Greetings from Wales :)
Thanks for this - considering grabbing an skr 1.3 now :)
You're welcome! At this price, it's hard not to buy one.
@@ChrisRiley true that - just a bummer that I upgraded to an mks gen l 2 months ago 😅 still, this is so fairly priced that I'm considering it just for the fun of it
Sweet!,this will definitely help the 3d community out!
Great, glad to hear it.
Good video series. I started out with mainframes and I don't see how you keep all of these settings in mind and are able to riff them out like that. I'm envious. Keep up the good work.
Thanks Thomas, it's a look to remember for sure.
You can easliy configure Marlin to use the E1 Stepper as Z1 if you have a standard single-extruder setup. It keeps the required current on the stepper down, that is something you usually should care about on the "small" tmcs like 2130 or 2208.
I thought I actually mentioned that in this video, but I guess I cut it out. I will show that config on the next one. Thanks for the comment.
@@ChrisRiley Please do I'd like to do this :) As much as just reading the docs helps I still like to see others do it.
Hi Chris, great video. I got one of these running with some help from your rearm video. (So, thanks twice.) It was pretty much a drop in replacement for an MKS 1.4 and is working well so far in an old FT5 r1. It's so much quieter that it seems weird.
Margin notes... I had the same 2208 v1.2 driver you used and it was only necessary to connect the J2 pad (the one closest to uart pin) with the center pad (chip) to enable uart. As I understood it, the other pin/pad was unused in the current config so it doesn't hurt anything to connect all three as you did though. The drivers get a little warm, and the vref is different than allegro, so mind the current. People say stealthchop robs too much torque for extruders so I didn't try quiet mode for that, but the 2208 is working fine for 'E' in spread cycle with a gear reduction extruder.
Might want to sign your channel up as a brave browser content creator so people can toss bat tokens your way. Take care...
Thanks for the comment, glad to know it helped you twice! Thanks for the extra info on the 2208's. I have never heard of brave browser, I will have to look into that.
Hi Chris, thanks for making this video, I enjoyed especially the circle speed tests. I have some suggestions for your next video testing out the SKR1.3. I've been an early adopter of the SKR1.3 BIQU sent me a free SKR 1.3 for contributing the "popular" product suggestion of TMC2208 UART w/o flying wires, so I've been using it for a while.
Suggestions:
1. Using Vase mode will result in a constant circular speed, without the layer change jerk/bump. This will make it easier to visually separate stutters from layer change jerks.
2. Test to see if printing via USB via Octoprint behaves differently. Ie, see if the Octoprint USB bandwidth bottleneck is still a factor with the SKR1.3. The interesting thing about the SKR1.3 (and setting serial port to -1 in marlin configuration.h is a clue to this) is that Baud Rate doesn't matter whether its 9.6k or 500K - there is no USB to serial conversion happening - There is a direct USB connection between the pi (or computer) into the SKR.
Andy Shaw, who personally wrote most of the SKR/LPC1768 USB stack said, verbatim, "There is no USB to serial conversion on the SKR boards. The USB stack (which runs on the LPC1768) handles the "USB serial" connection directly." Source: facebook.com/groups/505736576548648/permalink/668928390229465/?comment_tracking=%7B%22tn%22%3A%22O%22%7D
Therefore in theory, there is oodles of bandwidth over the USB bus. However, jury is still out on whether this takes out Octoprint as the bottleneck when printing fast circles, or simply raises the speed ceiling before octoprint bottlenecks because the Pi still needs to supply instructions just in time and is timing sensitive - if the SKR board's marlin buffer empties just for a tiny period of time despite having large bandwidth, then you still get stutters. For my own firmware build, I've increased buffers just in case since theres gobs of memory available. My commit with my buffer settings. github.com/talldonkey/Marlin-2.0-SKR-1.3-Ender-3/commit/8dd0490d8ff123fd15fe7f4181a48a4c00d091ce
I did a test print at 150mm/s inner walls (2600 acceleration) and 50mm/s outer walls (500 acceleration) (Via Octoprint) and was shocked at the quality I got. I was expecting a mess, but it came out 85% good.
Great suggestion, thank you. I will be sure to do that.
Nice. This video will help alot. I have a Delta that really suffers with 8bit Marlin. I was waiting for a replacement 32bit board, and the know how to upgrade. I upgraded to tmc2130's but with spi, didn't know uart mode less wiring... Thank you again. Another upgrade but now I have direction. Already a patreon but I think I'll make a donation too.
Hey Nuroo, thanks man! At this price it's hard to say know. Your support of the channel is greatly appreciated.
@@ChrisRiley That's what I was thinking as I was watching video. But we really appreciate your leg work. Do you have a single 1 time donation link?
@@nuroo1 Hey man, I do have a PayPal link. www.paypal.me/ChrisBasement
Thanks for the Paypal! You the man!!!
@@ChrisRiley No worries. U da man. Great video, SKR ordered right after watching your video. You need affiliate links
So important videos.... thank you
Thanks!
Nice work Chris
Thanks Jose!
Your the man chris yet again I just upgraded my cr10 to this board with 2208s in uart and it would have been way easier if i saw this before
Thanks Phillip!
the vid ive been waiting for thanks :)
Great Mark! Thanks for watching!
good job as usual. ur marlin 2.0 video helped me set this up a few weeks ago. keep in mind there is an issue with marlin 2.0 this board and 2130's doing linear advance. the extruder won't work. might be fixed now but a month ago I know it was an issue when. did it. took me 3 hours figuring out why my extruder wasn't working lol
Thanks! I hear ya, I think I have downloaded 2.0 about 6 different times now, there is always something popping up that is either broken or now fixed. :)
Impressive board/Marlin
Thanks for sharing :-)
Thanks Asger!
Awsome man!thank you...!i just tag your video on my group so anyone can see it!
Awesome, thank you!
Good job. 32bit is a quite interesting topic. 😃
Yes it is, I enjoyed making this video. Thank you for watching.
I don't know if this has been posted before but you can configure marlin to use a second stepper driver to drive the additional Z motor. I did this with my Anet A8 and it was relatively easy the second I found the option. Even though Z doesn't move that much, I like having peace of mind that I don't put unnecessary load on one driver for two motors since I have an extra driver to do the job. I got myself some 2208's this week. Time to dig up my printer again and put them in.
Yes, thanks for the post, very easy to do.
This is a great tutorial! I'm going to follow this to upgrade one of my printers; the original control board is dying.
Awesome! Good luck with the upgrade, thanks Dave.
I'm back, and my rebuild is complete! My SKR came with a dead X axis - it just wouldn't work in UART mode. For now, I ended up remapping the E1 axis I'm not using as a replacement for X in pins.h. You just swap the pin numbers around. It works!
@@davepedu5896 Nice, glad you got it working.
Fantastic video!
Thanks John!
Thank you so much it'a really helpful
You're welcome 😊
I just heard that the SKR V1.3 pro is coming out in a few days.
The main differences are
- 15ABlade Fuse added and 30A Fuse changed.
- Built-in 6-channel driver with Dual-Z function Supports 7 ports.
- Changed to a stronger screw terminal.
- USB B port addition.
- PWM FAN 4 ports.
- Added I2C.
It also might have the STM32F4 as the MCU. The FPU for Floating operation is also a separate chip, and the maximum operating clock is 180MHz.
Link to source. I would love to hold off for this updated version!
Very nice! We might have to check that out.
@@simulatedfish1995 source: bigtreetech facebook page. Biqu pcb designer often post there.
23:20 - Don't forget `M502`, `M500` after flashing the new firmware to make sure your new configured settings get activated and saved to the EEPROM. (The board reset button likely does not clear the EEPROM, and Marlin saves EEPROM data to SD or MCU flash on some boards.)
Thanks Scott! Yes, I totally didn't do that in this one. Hopefully I remembered that in the Re-arm video. LOL It will be in the next one indeed.
@Bryan Rentoul I always forget to mention the eeprom reset. :)
@@soundspark Which interface?
@@soundspark Ah, gotcha.
This is super neat... If it works with OctoPrint I'm gonna have to get one of these to upgrade from my RAMPS board.
Cool little board, it works with Octoprint for sure.
Great Video! Thanks for that!
Thanks Pacco!
Dang Chris, I dig your basement!!!!!
Thanks man!
@@ChrisRiley Hah, mines a dump but happy piles of fun everywhere!! Envious of your organization.
@@alien4x487 Ugh man, I need to do so much more.
@@ChrisRiley preaching to the choir now lol. great content btw.
@@alien4x487 😀
Great content as always Chris! Interested to see if this board lives up to its potential and know where to go for the important info. Thanks.
Happy to help
Already bougth SKR1.1 + DRV8825 and replaced board on my Anet A6. I plan to replace DRV8825 (already have 5x TMC2130), but they are dirt cheap and for testing work very well.
Btw - if you don't use dual extruder, you can just use E1 as second Z driver in marlin and you don't need to create Y cable
Nice! Yep, I thought I touched on that in this video, but I guess I cut it out. I will add it to the next video.
I usually don't comment on other channels. But bang up job
Thanks for stopping by.
Thanks for posting, I had a look at the SKR and it looked pretty promising, but as the Re Arm was available to me I plonked some LV8729's in one and put it on my kossel linear plus, the difference is quite amazing, 1/64 microstepping is plenty quiet for me and has plenty of torque even with the stepper Vref only @ 0.5v the motors stay pretty cool and unlike when testing the 2130's on the kossel I have no layer shifts, longest print so far has been 8 hours at 120mm/s, I have gone up to 160 mm/s but the stock effector arms rattle too much for my liking at that speed the only issue I have with the ReArm is its height, I really dont want to shove it under the heated bed because heatsinks on the steppers are pretty tall, this is why I am looking towards the SKR, I'll keep the ReArm as a backup
Right on Andy, yeah I would say the SKR is just a lot easier to install and your right it would be about half as tall as re-arm sandwich.
Thank you very much!
You are very welcome.
You can enable dual z motors in the adv config and use the spare extruder spot for z2.
Yeah, I thought I talked about that in this video, I guess I cut it out.
Thanks bro, love you ❤️❤️
LOL, I love you too!
Wow , i was lost immediately, off to find more basic videos on TMCs lol
Sorry man! There is a lot of good content out there.
@@ChrisRiley hah, yeah I need to step back then revisit this, I am just now learning whats available, did not even know there were 3 modes for tmc drivers..., was like woah woah
Great ! Chris so farso good...
Great!
Txs a lot for your informative installation. I followed your instructions and am happy to say everything works to a point. My screens on same readings as yours so quite happy and proud being a 1st timer at doing a modification like this. My only question being installing Merlin. My machine is tronxxy branded as a Prusa i3. I know. I would like to know what settings to change in Marlin as apposed to your machine. I believe your settings will not work on mine. Your valuable knowledge and assistance would be great appreciated. Just to inform you, I have never done any marlin configurations and uploads, so I will be watching and pausing your video. Thanks Wayne.
I would start here, github.com/MarlinFirmware/Marlin/tree/2.0.x/config you can take a config that might already work for your machine and copy the config files.
Okay, okay, I'll order one. Was just gonna go back to RAMPS to replace my wonky MKS SBASE, but I just ordered one of these.
You're welcome. ;)
Great Video helped me get my board set up. I was playing around in Marlin 2.0 and found an easter egg you might enjoy. Just compile your Configuration.h with one of the following lines:
#define MARLIN_INVADERS or
#define MARLIN_MAZE or
#define MARLIN_SNAKE or
#define MARLIN_BRICKOUT
It will activate a 'Game' option in the menu Interesting but totally a time waster.
Keep up the great videos
Thanks Larry! Yes, I have played around with these, love it!
one of the best explanations! and thx to show atom, its 1000timers better than the arduino software. subscribed 👌🏻 👍🏻
Thanks for the sub! Also, check out VScode.
Great video, Chris! Were you able to get the capacitive proximity sensor working with that board?
I don't usually mess with capacitive, but I did get an inductive working and the bltouch. If it's 5v you should be able to just use the endstop pins.
YOU ARE BRILLIANT CHRIS...
Thank you for watching!
awesome!! thanks.
You are very welcome!
Great video as per usual, Thanks. Is configuration capable of sensor less homing?
If you have 2130 , yes
Yes, as @Nitram says, if you have 2130's, they should be similar to the 2208 setup, just different jumpers to remove.
Thanks for putting this video together. It has been very helpful in setting up my SKR v1.3. I bought 4 TMC2208 drivers for this, but then changed the Z & E0 to A4988. First I was going to change them to DRV8825 but after some problems with those I switched to A4988 on those 2 drivers. My main reason for this response is that I set the VREF on an old RAMPS board 1st for the DRV8825 drivers mostly because it was easier, but when I checked the voltage again after putting the DRV8825 chips in the SKR board they were a lot lower voltages. It could have been I had an iffy ramps board. Have you tried checking the voltage of drivers on different boards?
On the cheaper boards, voltage seems to be a little inconsistent when measured from the drivers. I wouldn't be surprised if there was a difference board to board.
Thanks man!!! 😃
You bet!
Awesome Chris. I missed this earlier but now setting up my FT6 which I watched your pt. 3 live build.
I found a chain management system for it on Thingiverse. Let me know what you’ve done to yours since the build and your final thoughts please.
Hey David. I put a part cooling fan and an inductive leveling sensor on it. Everything else is stock. It work pretty well for the most part. It's nice to have a printer for larger things. For the money, I think it's pretty nice.
I have this board, expect to change orientations of pins for all the endstop connectors. It also uses a different layout for the bltouch. Is fixable by changing the orientation tho.
I noticed that over the weekend while I was testing. Thanks for watching!
Hi Chris, you always produce fantastic videos, I only watch yours because you explain things properly, I have installed one of these boards and a 2.8 touch screen in my Wanhao Duplicator I3. What would be the correct settings now to use in Cura. Hope you can help.
cheers, Paul
Hey Paul, you mean the slicer settings? If they have a Dup i3 setting already in Cura I would go with that, the board really shouldn't change much.
Thanks for the reply Chris, I do use the wanhao cura edition, I have discovered several flaws with the Wanhao dup i3 and will share them with you for your thoughs and views but I need to take pics first. cheers. Paul
Great topic, I just order the skr 1.3 board and I am really interested in sensor less homing. I am considering the 2130 and the 2209 could you compare those options in a future as well as the differences of the UART vs the SPI
Thanks! Yes, I plan on going into a bunch of different 32 bit configs like this.
Excellent.... So what is your opinion of this board. To me, it seems like excellent value, esp with the trinamic drivers. Regarding the dual z steppers. What is the best way to configure it on this board? Use the cable splitter as you have or can you use the E1 driver position. If cable is best, parallel or serial? What vendors trinamic do you recommend. I think I am going to upgrade my E16. I feel very limited by the 1284 atmega. Thanks again Chris. Looking forward to your future videos on this board.
Thanks Mark! So far, you can't beat it for the money. You can configure the dual steppers in Marlin, it's pretty straightforward. Using 2 drivers for 2 Z motors can get a little interesting if you don't have to Z endstops, so I just stick with the cable. I would think parallel would be better, but companies like Ultimachine use series, I think you can expect pretty much the same results from either. All the trinamics use the same chip, but I have more faith in watterot drivers....but the price kinda hurts.
I have one of these coming as well as some 2208 for testing.
Cool James, they are pretty cool for the money it seems.
Chris Riley looks like it. Starting my 32 bit board experiments.
@@ChrisRiley Seems like it. Have you found it to be better than 8 bit boards? if so how?
@@ZebraandDonkey I haven't done a lot of testing to compare yet. I have been able to stall an 8 bit board speed wise. 32bit handled it just fine.
A big thank you for this great video from Germany in the "old" world. I considered to get a Re-Arm after your video on that. But you changed my mind. There is one question I have you might to answer. Based on your video for the "controllable" Hotend Fan which works great on my RAMPS I am wondering if you can explain me how to set it up on the SKR. Which Pin can I use? I'm not so deep into electronics to figure out by myself. Thanks again, I love your videos.
If you only have 1 extruder, i think you can hook your fan up to HE1 and it should work as expected.
pARABÉNS EXCELENTe VIdEO, MUITO BEM EXPLICADO, ADQUIRII ESA PLACA E SEU VIDEO TEM SICO MUITO UTIL.
Marco - Minas Gerais - Brasil
Thanks! Glad you like it.
varry epic video i have a Alunar M508 i cant find a replacement broad for it . i was looking at this one wow 32 bit i love how you show how to set the broad up. epic info , the reson why i think i might need a new mainboard is becuse i got a hot end therimistor i fixed the thermol runaway then i had to fix the heater cartage it printed now in prints the lcd will dim the printer will go quite like varry quite then it gose thermol shutdown maybe its wiers i checked them and recheck them iam not sure but i like that main borad soo cool
Thanks! Yeah, for the money this board is pretty nice.
Another Great instructional Chris , did you have the board ‘powered’ (12v/24v) when you loaded Firmware or USB only ??
Yes, it has to be powered 12v/24v to upload.
@@ChrisRiley sorry to pester you Chris - having real trouble getting Octopi to connect to SKR 1.3 - any settings in the Raspberry Pi that is essential ?? Beginning to think I've got a dud board :(
@@JarleTeigland I just cabled up, left it auto and auto and it connected. Not sure if this is helpful or not. Your serial is set to -1 in your code correct?
Changing monitoring state from "Offline" to "Detecting serial port"
Serial port list: ['/dev/ttyACM0']
Connecting to: /dev/ttyACM0
Changing monitoring state from "Detecting serial port" to "Opening serial port"
Connected to: Serial(port='/dev/ttyACM0', baudrate=115200, bytesize=8, parity='N', stopbits=1, timeout=10.0, xonxoff=False, rtscts=False, dsrdtr=False), starting monitor
Starting baud rate detection...
Changing monitoring state from "Opening serial port" to "Detecting baudrate"
Trying baudrate: 115200