Auto Bed Leveling - Marlin 2.0 - How To - 2019 - Chris's Basement
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- เผยแพร่เมื่อ 19 เม.ย. 2024
- In this one, we go over auto bed leveling and any changes to this process in Marlin 2.0.
00:00 Intro
00:58 Mainboard and Probe Overview
04:45 Marlin Configuration
12:21 Z Safe Homing
13:19 Selecting Specific Points
18:30 Pronterface and Hardware
25:45 Conclusion
Sensor link (aff):
s.click.aliexpress.com/e/3aaivUyC
Link to Marlin firmware:
marlinfw.org/
Original ABL video from 2017:
• Add Auto Bed Leveling ...
Link to VScode:
code.visualstudio.com/
VScode setup video:
• VSCODE - Edit Marlin F...
The sensor I use on Ali Express:
geni.us/eJhc
SKR 1.3 board on Ali Express:
geni.us/ghaLk
Link to Pronterface:
www.pronterface.com/
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bit.ly/2HoS1cV
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No wonder other TH-camr's refer to your technical know how! Good and informative video Chris.
LOL, thanks Sergio!
good explanations, straight to the point without missing details, amazing work! Thank you Chris, that's exactly what I needed
Thanks for the comment, glad it helped you.
Dude... I was pulling my hair off messing around with 2.0 because of the boundaries change and your video popped up. BIG THANKS!
Great! Glad it helped out.
Merry Christmas to your family. The best instruction on how to change Marlin and especially the probe offset values. Keep it up Chris!
Merry Christmas Dave! As always thanks for watching and the continued support.
Hey Chris, thank you for your helpfull videos! You show just the right level of detail for most people that want to actually work with their printer!
Thank you for watching! Glad it helped.
Merry Christmas!!! The best technical 3d channel on the Tubes!
Thank you Chris, Merry Christmas!
Really informative video. I was struggling to get my settings right after I installed bltouch. Now I have everything working the way it should. Thanks you for this detailed video.
Glad it was helpful!
What a wonderful Christmas surprise! Happy holidays Riley family!
Thanks Matt! Happy holidays!
I was just wondering about this! What a great Christmas present, thanks Chris
Nice! Merry Christmas!
I was frustrated with getting my BL Touch to work . . . but your video cleared it all up. Followed the steps and viola! Thank you soooo much!! :)
Glad it helped!
The best description in the internet, thanks 🙏
Thank you!
Thank you for the video, you got to the point quickly compared to other junk videos out there.
Thanks Leo!
Fantastic video - Answers to questions I have always had. thanks Chris
Thanks for watching Bob!
Chris I have never seen anything from you that doesn't deserve a thumbs up, its just a shame you can't give it more. Thanks
That's so nice of you, thanks!
Lol, dude, I spent 8 hours yesterday with this EXACT board and a BLtouch. Wracking my brain. If only I waited a day lol. Good content man! I mashed up your tft 35 video and teaching techs Marlin guide. Got there eventually.
LOL, doh, at least you got it.
Pal, I follow several 3d printing chanels, but now I am assembling a upgraded old printer and it´s the only one that provided the informations that are usefull for me. Thanks a lot for your time and step by step explanations, much more useful than oficial chanels. Godspeed you!
Thank you very much for this comment, I do what I can. ;)
your videos are treasure for beginners like me, thank you so much .... i search a problem on google and your video comes first ....
Thank you so much! I'm glad I could help
Great walk through as always
Thanks for sharing 👍:-)
Thanks Asger!
Thank you for your work on your great videos. You have helped me with your videos several times. I will support you with Patreon in the future. :)
Thank you so much Oliver, glad these have helped you.
Good to know. I'm still running the stock firmware on my tornado and it's still working great after more than a year. Haven't had to level the bed in about a year either so I haven't really seen a need for ABL.
Nice! I always prefer the hardware be stable then trying to comperstate.
Great job doing this video! It helped me millions with my ANET A8! Thank you very much!! :)
Thanks! Glad it was help full.
Just started watching your videos to rfesearch auto bed leveling. Love them! Informative and concise.
I bought an Anet A8 style printer 3 or 4 years ago. Does the Marlin 2.0 and bed leveling translate to the control board it came with?
All the best!
Thanks for watching! You can get it on there, you will have to disable some of the features to get it to fit. There are examples for the A8 out on the Marlin github that should work.
I have an older Taz 5 that was in need of rebuild. I've gutted it completely, rebuilt the bed, and x and y axes, and this video couldn't be more timely as I've purchased the SKR to replace the older Rambo 1.4 board. I'm starting with the SKR and Marlin 2.0 from zero. So I would benefit from any Marlin 2.0 setup videos that you would continue to produce. Thanks for sharing and Happy New Year.
Nice! We will do a full walkthrough for sure, happy new year, 2020 will be awesome.
Merry Christmas! Great Video 👍
Thanks Merry Christmas!
Thank you! This was extremely helpful!
You're very welcome! I'm happy to help.
Happy holidays and thanks Chris from Germany.
Yes, I‘d like to see a vid about the the remaining setup in Marlin 2.0 final.
At the moment I’m struggling with the Bltouch. The printer doesn’t consider the results from the leveling during printing an thus some areas are ok on the bed and some not (the nozzle is too much above the bed). I don‘t find the mistake.
Happy holidays!!! Cool, I will work on that. I have heard of a lot of people struggling with this. It seems like some of the newer sensor are inconsistent.
@Klaus
I have exactly the same problem. And I thought I was alone with it. I updated my firmware several times and flashed but no improvement.With the old firmware (Marlin 2.0 bugfix from August) never had any problems but since I flashed the new Marlin I have had the problem. Maybe Chris Riley knows a little more about it?
@Oliver Sierra Which version of BLtouch are you using? I‘m using V3.0.
@@KPTnVAN I have the exact same version. Are you in the BigTreeTech Facebook group? (I can also speak German, because I come from Luxembourg)
@@KPTnVAN I think this one is a v2.0, it's the first one with the plastic pin.
This is litteraetly exactly what i needed now. THANK YOU so much =D this will hopefully help me! Have a awesome day
Awesome!
Great video like always Chris!
Do you planning to test and do some videos with SKR v1.4 Turbo?
Thank you!
Thanks! Yea, the boards are on the way!
This is hugely helpful. I have progressed in my 3D printing to the point where I now need to modify firmware settings and this was exactly some of the information I needed to understand. Thank you. I'm in the process of replacing the board and screen in my anycubic kobra 2. The firmware is so sub-par it is really sad. That trigorilla board has got to go. I'd mess with firmware if I could find a build for it but since I can't it's going to go. But I want to reuse as many parts as possible and the inductive probe works well so I didn't want to replace it. This video gave me exactly what I needed to keep it.
That's great, thanks for watching!
Very nice and happy holidays.
You too James! Thanks.
merry christmas chris
Merry Christmas Paul!
Hey Chris, great guide as always. Thanks to your previous videos (and Michael at Teaching Tech), I already have the BL Touch set up on the #Borg and it works perfectly. I was wondering if you would do a video on moving from Marlin 2.0.x bugfix to the final release 2.0.0.
Merry Christmas and Happy New Year to you and your family.
Thanks, Spike, it's my pleasure to make these videos. Yeah, we can work up something like that. I want to use the VScode compare option and see how that goes. Merry Christmas and happy holidays to you and yours!
@@ChrisRiley That sounds perfect, I didn't even know VSC had a compare option. Can't wait 👍
Great video. Installed the PINDA working but now the hotbed is not heating. Have watched your other video on setting up the MKS Gen-L, Tested the power outlets for the heatbed on the board and they have 0 volts, as if they are not being activated. Was wondering if there could be a conflict in the pin assignments with the filament sensor and the mosfet? Any advise?
Hmmm...it could be I guess, but that sounds kind of strange. I would check the pins file though, just to be sure.
Thanks Chris, yet another great video. Personally I have found the results to be much better from the Mesh if I enter an M420 S1 and M420 Z10 (if not done on LCD) - to get full usable advantage for the ABL, the restore G28 - seems to not be enough. I have had some struggle getting the first layer to work/give the benefits on my Ender5, but after including the M420 S1 in the start code in the slicer - the first layer is almoust perfect, so are the prints :) . Keep em coming - I love all your videos. Greetings from Norway
Thanks Stig! I have been playing with the M420 recently, lulxbot uses it a lot. I am thinking this might be a great thing to go over in a video.
Chris Riley yeah. Seems it’s not possible to get it to «stick» from command line. I have rund M420 S1 followed by M500 a lot of times. M420 always reports It’s in «off» state after print or revboot. When running it after G28 in start script it always use the mesh and good results. The fade does however stick even from command and M500 save. So that one is only needed to run and save ones - to my best knowledge.
@@stigberntsen9301 I have been trying to figure out how to setup my gcode in my slicer, should it look like this:
G28 ; home all axes
G29; BLTOUCH mesh generation
M420 S1
G92 E0.0
G1 Z5;
G1 X10 Y10 Z0 F6000;
G1 X60.0 E9.0 F1000.0 ; intro line
G1 X100.0 E12.5 F1000.0 ; intro line
G92 E0.0
I am not sure if I should leave G29 in. I have seen you only need to do G29 once and store it with M500.
D C Personally i do G28 from pronterface or something similar (octoprint) then G29 and finally M500 + M501. This measure and save/load the settings. Then in my script i Use G28; to home all. I comment out the G29 ( only use it if needed since the bed normally stays leveled as is) after G28 i put M420 S1 Z10 ( latter is fade hight). I re-run G29 and save new mesh aprox 3-4 times in a year.
Very helpful, Thanks Man
You bet! Thanks for watching.
the best videos.
Thanks Patrick!
Great video buddy
Thanks man!
Very nice tutorial!
Thanks!
Hey Cris, love your work! is there any way to use a negative value for min probe edge?
Thanks! I think your only option is to set your minimum bed size in the negative.
@@ChrisRiley: I figured it out!
#define MIN_PROBE_EDGE_LEFT MIN_PROBE_EDGE
#define MIN_PROBE_EDGE_RIGHT 15
#define MIN_PROBE_EDGE_FRONT 15
#define MIN_PROBE_EDGE_BACK 15
and
#define X_MIN_POS -35
#define Y_MIN_POS 0
#define Z_MIN_POS 0
is what I needed. Thanks so much for your guides!!
Dude. THANK YOU
No problem! Happy to help!
awesome tutorial thank you. Does the skr mini v1.2 still use the env.LPC1768 when uploading?
Thanks! No, they will use an SMT32 chip.
Thanks Chris
Thanks Mark!
For anyone who needs to switch the fan pins (from the pins to the screw terminals), you need to go to the "pins_BTT_SKR.h" thats in Marlin-2.0.x/Marlin/src/pins/lpc1768.
Thanks for the tip!
chris, thank you for a great video
to do the actual firmware upgrade on a MKR1.3 , just send M997, that will do a reset of the board and then auto upgrade
Nice! I will try that out.
It makes me want to get a printer that runs Marlin again! (Two run Duet/RRF, and the Prusa MK3 doesn’t count). If only Paulo had created a build guide for that mini-printer of his. Nicely done as always, Chris. Have a relaxing Holiday break - Merry Christmas!
We got to work on Paulo! Lol, Merry Christmas John, thank you.
But but duet firmware is so awesome! It has dynamic acceleration!
@@ameliabuns4058 I'm very happy with the Duet boards and RRF, but I like variety. Same way I have a Delta printer, a standard i3 Cartesian printer, and a CoreXY printer.
@@ChrisRiley Indeed! Maybe if we all please in his Thingiverse comments... :)
Great tutorial Chris thank you. Just set up my Ender 3 with SKR 1.4 turbo and BL Touch v3.1. Never used ABL before so just testing but is there a min and max value that the Z axis will move to compensate for different levels across bed? When I get the mesh values my bed is pretty good but I don’t see any movement in the Z axis at all?
Thanks! I am not sure if there is a min or max, but I know there is a low point, so you can't go to far in the negative. You might check out the fade height setting as well.
Would like a video on what it takes to go from bug fix version to official 2.0 😁 Happy Holidays Sir
Yeah, unfortunately it's a complete redo, but we can do a scratch walkthrough that will help.
I split up my gcode between the 2 tabs for printer and filament. Probably overkill, but in the past I've needed to tweak minor values between brands for adhesion.
Ah, nice, that's a good idea, for flex and stuff that would be useful.
Yes please do a Marine 2.0 complete walk through thx
I did a two part series on the SKR 1.4 board, it's pretty complete.
Great Video ! Wondering if it is possible to install the New Pinda Sensor with the Temp Sensor/Compensation system to skr 1.3? Merry Christmas
Merry Christmas, I don't know if it is there yet in Marlin. I will have to look through the docs a bit and see.
@@ChrisRiley found this if you want to have a look : github.com/GibsDev/Marlin/tree/pinda2/Marlin
Awesome! I’d like to see a video on Marlin 2.0 set up if you still plan on it
Cool, yes, I have a lot of these videos coming.
@@ChrisRiley Sweet! Thanks for all you do!
Awesome.. Thanks
Thank you for watching!
Pnp sensor is an positive, negative and positive signal.
Npn is negative, positive and negative signal.
NC is a normally closed ( when sensor activate the signal cuts off )
NO is a normally open ( when sensor activate it will give a signal )
Thanks for the info!
Hi Chris.. thanks for you well made videos to learner from. will the Creality 3D Mainboard - V2.0 be abel to use yours sensor on the Z-endstop ? Grettings from Denmark
Thanks for watching! I think we can get it working on the Z min endstop, but you will have to power it from somewhere else.
@@ChrisRiley hi . fount that i can use D11 pin for the 5v power. so will order a sensor an see if i get lucky.
Happy New Years Chris. Love your videos. I have an unusual board on my Hypercube 3d printer. I'm using the MKS-Robin v2.3 with the TFT screen v1.1 and I don't seem to be able to configure Marlin 2.0 to run on my board. It is has the STM32F103ZE chip on it. It up loads fine, when I restart the board the touchscreen says "completed", the hot end cooling fan comes on for a second and then the board goes into protection mode and has a blinking blue led by the reset button. I never get anything of Marlin to display on the touchscreen. Is there a better place to tap into your knowledge?
Hey Matt, I am not sure if that board/chipset is fully supported yet. What does MKS want you to run on it?
Thanks for getting back to me Chris. MKS has Marlin 2.0 as one of two firmwares, however, they don't support it well and it seems that the original Marlin 2.0 was to be compiled with Atom and an earlier version of PlatformIO and with updates and the fluid nature of Marlin the compatibility was lost, or may never had been there for the TFT v1.1. It seems the people that have been able to get it to work have TFT v2.0. There are a couple guys within the Marlin world that may be trying to get the version 1.1 TFT put into the main Marlin again. The fork version they are working with did get Marlin working on my board and screen, but touch buttons are not working yet.
I was hoping that perhaps you had a magic touch or connections within the Matrix. If not that is ok I just thought I'd try. Happy New Year!
@@mattdog01 LOL, sorry not for this one, we will have to wait for the Marlin gurus to figure this one out. Happy new year!
Phil Hutton
Great video Chris. I have been trying to install Bigtreetech SKR 2 Rev B and TFT35 V3.0. When power is applied I get a beep and a message saying "Failed to enable Bed Leveling" it will "Auto Home" fine and will still start "Auto Leveling" but the motherboard restarts "reboots" every 3 minutes. This has been happing from the start. Do you think the board is bad? I think I have waited to late to return it. What is your thoughts?
Yeah, sounds like one or more of the pins have been grounded out. I would say the board is bad.
Hi Chris
Please tell me which screen do you use. Its looking nice.
If its a full graphic discount smart controller refer me how to configure it
I am using this screen www.amazon.com/BIGTREETECH-Graphic-Display-Controller-Printer/dp/B07VWF4W3J/ref=sr_1_1_sspa?crid=69WSAC297AAG&dchild=1&keywords=bigtreetech+tft35+v3.0&qid=1598130406&sprefix=bigtreetech%2Caps%2C200&sr=8-1-spons&psc=1&spLa=ZW5jcnlwdGVkUXVhbGlmaWVyPUEzOTZRUFdaUUFENVE1JmVuY3J5cHRlZElkPUEwODAxNTE3Mk1TVjhWVjUzQjRaWSZlbmNyeXB0ZWRBZElkPUEwNTA0MTk0MzZZSkQxQVQxTTFBNCZ3aWRnZXROYW1lPXNwX2F0ZiZhY3Rpb249Y2xpY2tSZWRpcmVjdCZkb05vdExvZ0NsaWNrPXRydWU=
Here is a video:
th-cam.com/video/57f-sG0nFeM/w-d-xo.html
Thank you
You're welcome!
perfekt thx
Thanks for watching!
Thank you for this gr8 tutorial !! unfortunately after following all steps (few times..) , it seems that after G29 is executed, the nozzle stays 5mm above the bed and when I start a print it stays there.
LCD is indicating Z:5 but there is no way to lower it from the software or GCode. Any idea why this is happening ?
That sounds like something in the slicer, it should send the nozzle to the first layer height when the print starts.
thanks chris that did it
don
You bet!
Hi Chris. Merry Christmas!!!
Just a quick question regarding the probe you're using. Is it compatible with anycubic ultrabase glass plate or I have to switch to a spring sheet to use this method.
Thank you in advance
Andreas
It will work with Spring metal sheet but you need a capacitive sensor for the glass ...
@@ikomu8907 thank you!
Thanks for the assist!
And Merry Christmas!
Nicely done. Would like to have learned more about the BLTouch .... do you have another vid planned with let's say: CR-10S w/ Creality v2.1 board, Marlin 2.0, BLTouch? ;) ..... plz? Thanks!
Thanks BLtouch videos are coming up.
Chris Riley Great! 👍 - it’s been a real pain to try and get it (above combo) dialed in. I started with a PrintrBot Simple Wood 1405 (great little starter and great project with my son). I’m looking forward to the next vid!
If you purchase the Creality Kit Bltouch, the servo wires match the SKR 1.3, so no modification necessary. At least it was the same with mine. Simple plug n play
Nice, good to know.
hi, Chris. According to this video, I've got two questions for you. First, Imagine there is a little hole in the bed and the probe detect it. When printing the first layer, will the nozzle go down to the lowerest
point in the hole(negetive Z comparing Z zero), with softend limitation turning on? Second, is the bed surface is not perfectly level, it is meaningless to just pick one point of referrece for z-offset calculation. Will it be accurate to calculate several points and then use the average value?
It's hard to explain in text, but ABL will only get you so far. If there was a hole, it will skew your results, but it will go into the negative to try and compensate. It will ignore the software endstop. THe offset is only used to set the distance from the probe range to the nozzle. The leveling will take care of it.
I just got an EZABL from TH3D. I'm new to 3D printing but I would presume that to be an inductive sensor like you spoke about in the video. Will this tutorial work for setting up that particular sensor?
Hey Richard, this should work for your sensor, but it might not be inductive. It could be capacitive. Either way, this video will work.
Hi Chris. When you install the probe at approx 1mm above the bed (nozzle just touching bed), is the probe already triggered at that point?
Yes, it should be about .5 mm lower than it needs to be at that point, that's where you want it.
Hello, where are you find the Pinda sensor with only 3 wire ? I'm french so i don't understand everything but thnaks for this video who is very good !
www.aliexpress.com/item/32981810289.html?spm=a2g0o.productlist.0.0.c74b2a54tXQ2Jv&algo_pvid=45fcb2a7-e2a2-42ab-b9c0-f2c43e603bba&algo_expid=45fcb2a7-e2a2-42ab-b9c0-f2c43e603bba-0&btsid=2b70298c-2556-4ac9-9145-cbc144dc78d7&ws_ab_test=searchweb0_0%252Csearchweb201602_5%252Csearchweb201603_53&aff_request_id=1e517e3502fa4ad1befbb89f16a93e33-1581798970112-06412-3aaivUyC&aff_platform=link-c-tool&cpt=1581798970112&sk=3aaivUyC&aff_trace_key=1e517e3502fa4ad1befbb89f16a93e33-1581798970112-06412-3aaivUyC&terminal_id=204844ecaaaf4bb6b464bdc6f3d3ae24
Hey chris have you ON the software endstop after bed levelling or we have to keep software endstop off?
Yes, I leave it on to be safe. It will be back on after reboot.
Hey Chris your videos are great!, So I'm trying to setup BL touch with my SKR_1.4 Turbo, with 2209 drivers, stelthshop and stallgard are enabled, when # define Z_SAFE_HOMING is turned on with default setting and If i upload that and use G28 if the nozzle is already over the center of the bed it tries to move to the center of the bed again before zeroing out so it thinks when its over the bed or wherever it is, that its 0 that it starts from, sorry it's hard to explain what the printer is doing, basically exceeding its limits and crashing in the opposite direction of home. because it is trying to safe home why is that?
So it should always be doing Z last. The only thing I can think of it stallgaurd is getting triggered. I would turn off sensorless homing and try again, see if that lets it home normally.
Chris thanks so much for your videos. You so precise and clear. I ha ve a cr10s and I am installing a sensor probe. I am having issues with homing. Do you think you could help me out some? I could record a video and show you. Thanks so much
Sure, just let me know what it's doing.
@@ChrisRiley thanks so much. I didnt want to bother you with silly questions, so I have been all this time testing, fixing and improving the firmware that I got from "THE FIRST LAYER" he talks a lot about cr10s and thats exactly what I got. I have installed many things like an ABL sensor and thats exactly what I am wondering about. so far so good, the firmware works great but I have noticed that everytime I run a print it never performs a bed leveling with the sensor. it just starts printing. only when I select the leveling sensor from the LCD menu it performs the task. but only if I select it but it doesnt do it alone before everytime.
@@ciscolara Remember to put a G29 in your start gcode in your slicer. Put it right after heating and g28
You missed PNP and NPN difference, Chris.
Also - is SKR 1.3 5V compliant board ?
It's in there somewhere, or at least how to tell. I am not sure about compliant, but the 5v sensors seem to work.
11:17 I tried changing mine to Grid_max_points_x 5 which gives me the 5x5 probed grid when I manually tell the printer to auto level. but now when it prints, once it gets to the g29 command my printer goes to the corner like it's going to probe but instead just pauses then continues on with the print. I have it enabled in the firmware to reload the mesh after G28 and it gave me a great first layer so I believe it did in fact load the mesh. The G29 it right after the G28 am i missing something in the start G-Code?
Most of the time when you see that in Marlin the probe has throw an error. If you can't figure it out, you can turn on debugging and it will throw the information in a terminal window for you.
* Enable detailed logging of G28, G29, M48, etc.
* Turn on with the command 'M111 S32'.
* NOTE: Requires a lot of PROGMEM!
*/
//#define DEBUG_LEVELING_FEATURE
@@ChrisRiley Thanks for the help Chris! I managed to fix the problem by just changing #define Z_PROBE_LOW_POINT from -2 > -7 worst case if the probe fails my bed will ram into the nozzle for a few seconds. -2 wasn't enough for my -3.825 z offset.
But of course, fix one problem and another arises. When the print starts the Z moves to 6mm and prints in mid air. changing the Z offset does nothing, setting it to 10 or -10 offset doesn't matter it still goes to 6mm for the print :/
Great explaination. Can you please explain how can I install 6v to 36v inductive type of proximity sensor on BTT SKR v 1.4? I have really stuck from many days
You probably need to grab 12v/24v for this. Check this out. th-cam.com/video/EcGFLwj0pnA/w-d-xo.html
@@ChrisRiley I have used voltage divider using 15k and 10k resistor and used probe pins to attach my proximity sensor. Not it shows status of OPEN or TRIGGERED correctly. But my z-axis moves up and down even my z-probe status is triggered. What can I do for this ?
Sending M119 showing my 4 endstops status as follows:
X_min: open
Y_min:open
Z_min:open
Z_probe: triggered
Kindly give me your suggestions on this.
Actually i checked my all the endstops. It triggers correctly but can't stop my printer when they triggered
@@vishalpatil571 Do you have your probe attached to the Z min endstop pins? That is the only way it will stop Z.
Any chance you could do one on UBL? The one I have is 24v and seems to work...just not the UBL part. I have been trying to get it set up and it only wants to probe in one spot. The board is the SKR 1.4 Turbo, which I installed using your video.
I will be doing another UBL video to follow up. Stay tuned.
12v sensors may be a better choice as detection distance will be higher. Easy to connect with mosfet. And other sources are saying that bltouch it's much better than inductive sensors. Prusa is using integrated temperature sensor (while wire) to compensate temperature deviation but it's still sensible to be humidity levels as well and bed material.
12v does give you a bit more distance. From my testing, inductive probes are more accurate than bltouch sensors. Are you thinking of capacitive sensors maybe?
@@ChrisRiley To double check: Autoleveling on 3D printers: 9 myths and 12 sensors tested! (By Thomas S.) th-cam.com/video/il9bNWn66BY/w-d-xo.html It looks like I was indeed confused,, thanks!
@@ChrisRiley 2mm vs up to 8mm :)) Times 40% in case of Al bed. Can be a deal breaker in case on non-metal print surface.
I have some experience with g code on vinyl cutters, CNC routers, and laser cutters but my BIQU BX is only my second 3D printer. I am confused about two things that I think you can probably answer off the top of your head. 1) With Bilinear bed leveling, are the adjustments relative to the front left of the machine or the middle. It would seem I should set Z0 at the first point or maybe the highest point to make sure the bed leveling is always relative to the real Z0. 2) I never understood why we set Z0 to 0.1mm (thickness of paper) instead of actual 0 when my first g code move sets Z up by the thickness of the first layer. Shouldn't I move Z down to the thickness of paper then move it to a safe space and set it down an additional 0.1mm before saving Z0?
8:00 What do you mean that the measurements are about the nozzle location and not the probe? It's both, as in it's the relative position of the probe with respect to the nozzle. If the probe is to the right of the nozzle, the X offset will be positive etc.
Thanks for your insight
In the SKR 1.4 (non turbo) am I enabling pulldowns/pullups (or touching any of that) while using Bltouch 3.1 as my Z sensor, prob going to use sensorless homing as well with the TMC2209 in UART mode. Other thought I had was, install a Z switch, in case the BLtouch fails and wants to crash into the center of the Earth?
You can setup both, but you will have to move the default bltouch probe pins to something other than Z min endstop pins.
@@ChrisRiley yeah I got them in their servos designated homes on the board, which I think is what I need? I've read conflicting reports of needing to clip/unsolder and not needing to clip that diag pin under those TMC 2209s.
@@miremaker You only need to clip them if you want to use the other ports on the board. EN0 EN1 power detect ect.
Hey Chris! What if i am using the Z min as endstop and my probe should it be on Z max?
Yes, I put it on Z max when using Z min.
First of all, thank you for such a study. I did the application but I have a problem. Since it tries to go to the specified points very fast, it gives motor step error. What can I do because it wasn't slow. I tried to reduce the speed.
So you slowed it down, but it didn't help? You can try to increase the motor current.
hi, thank you for videos. How can i use tmc2209 sensorless property for Z?
I am not sure yet, i haven't started testing it.
Hi Chris
Please tell me that I need to on the soft end stop before start printing the test print?
After the offset is set you shouldn't need to.
Is it possible in Marlin to wire a standard Z endstop switch to the Z-MIN-ENDSTOP port and an inductive probe to the Z-MAX-ENDSTOP port, and then have the firmware use the endstop switch to home the Z axis, but use the inductive probe to level the bed? In this case the endstop switch fires when the nozzle just touches the bed, and the inductive probe will fire at some point above the level of the probe (which is the Z probe offset value). I'd like to add the inductive probe, but keep the z endstop.
Yes, you can do this, you would use this feature #define Z_MIN_PROBE_PIN 32 instead of this one #define Z_MIN_PROBE_USES_Z_MIN_ENDSTOP_PIN then just use your max endstop pin from your pins file.
In my case Z_MIN_PROBE_USES_Z_MAX_ENDSTOP_PIN works also fine.
Hi Chris, what printer are you using? There is a open-source project for it?
It's a MK2 clone made out of wood. Check this out. toms3d.org/2017/02/23/building-cheapest-possible-prusa-i3-mk2/
@@ChrisRiley Thank you for the fast reply. Between them, what upgrades are included in your improved model?
@@cristianfo Too many to count, LOL, bondtech extruder gears, MK3S extruder body, integrated lead screw motors, MK42 bed, SKR 1.3 board currently.
Do you have an affiliate link to the probe you think is best to use?
It won't let me post the link here, I will add it to the description.
Just a heads up. The Marlin project has just released version 2.0.1 (official). There's a ton of fixes and features in there, despite the 0.0.1 increase in the version number, check it out.
Thanks man, will do!
Hi Chris! Thank you for the vid, it is really clear! However I have an issue with my Anet, where I just installed the BLTouch and the latest marlin firmware. I set the probe up, as in your video, but when I start printing (after G28 and G29 and after ZO setup) I don't know why but the nozzle of my e3d dives into the bed. It makes a side of the object quite nice, while when it moves to the right side of the object, the Z moves down and the nozzle is almost carving my bed. I can see the lines the nozzle makes on the bed. It is super weird, because it starts fine, with the right first layer height but then the Z goes down. It seems that the machine is trying to leveling the bed, but in the wrong direction. It should lift the Z on the right side of the bed, because it is a bit higher than the left side. I tried to set the babystepping movement to true, but nothing changed. Do you have any clue on how to solve this problem? Many thanks again for the guide and the help!
Hello, what does the level map look like after the G29? You should be able to see it in pronterface or a terminal after the G29 runs. In your M503 output, is you Z offset correct? Check the M851 line.
@@ChrisRiley Hi! The map is quite nice actually, no value higher than 0.5. I also went back to the bug fix 2.x, which is the one I have on my CreatBot w/BLTouch and that works like a charm. Also with that firmware, the problem persists. I really don't have a clue
Ah right, the offset is correct when I check it on my printer. Could it be the whole printer to be unlevelled? I checked the x rods and they are fine, I really don't know what it could be honestly . It is frustrating because the printer is fine, but damn the nozzle really dives into the bed from left to right sides. Btw, the map values are all negatives for the right side of the bed
@@giovgon8667 It almost has to be some sort of firmware issue. There is a Marlin 2.0.3 out now, maybe upgrading to that will solve the problems.
I'm having a lot of problems. Will a NPN NO (normally open) probe logic work? Does the normal Z end stop switch make the circuit OR break the circuit? My probe under a 5 volt power supply connection always has 5 volts on the signal wire. Touching the probe end with many different metal objects does not change the 5 volts on the signal wire. I think my 'NEW' probe is bad.
Sounds like the probe might be bad, you should see if go low or high as you trigger it.
Thank you ! it must be necessarily NPN?
No, it can be either, you just have to change it in the firmware.
@@ChrisRiley Ok, thanks you !
Hey Chris!
Is there a way to use 2 sensors for auto bed leveling? If so please tell me.
Thanks
Currently with Marlin, no I don't think there is.
@@ChrisRiley Ah OK.
Thanks for the reply thow
I think maybe you are confusing Normally Closed vs Normally Open (NC vs NO) for PNP and NPN. Maybe I need to watch again closer, but when you invert the login in Marlin you are more accurately changing from a NC vs NO. PNP is Sourcing, which means the switch will push the voltage out the signal, thereby pulling the signal high, otherwise it is left floating. The NPN is sinking, which pulls the signal low (0v ref) when the signal actuates. Both of these type switches can come in NC or NO configurations.
I very well could be working off assumptions from experience. I will have to do some experiments.
Hi Chris,
i just updateded my Chiron, and now i have the below Zero challange. even if i follow your guide to the letter, i still can't get the g28 to be with the new Z offset settings. do you have some other tips and tricks.
Thank you in advance.
G28 will probably not reflect your Z offset, it should always seek 0.0.0. After the G29, or when headed toward your printing move the offset will then be applied. Make sure the offset is updated in eeprom.
I've gotten this working great on older versions of marlin on 8 bit boards, but am not having the same luck with my SKR 1.3 (running Marlin 2.0).
It compiles and uploads fine, but M119 always returns 'open', even if I hold a tool under the probe (triggering it). I have it wired to my Z- endstop, and I've set this up in my firmware.
Any ideas on what's going wrong/where I should start looking?
On a 1.3, make sure your Z diag jumper is off.
@@ChrisRiley I had to de-solder a pullup resistor, that did the trick. Thanks!
Wow! This is just the tip of the many variables as variety of printers there are. I am tweaking a FLSUN i3 Plus and Marlin misses the FLUN printers! Oh well.
The options for different 3d printers seems unlimited these days.
what do you do to take into fact of the 1mm zip tie you used initially???
I'm not sure I understand. It's just an estimate.
BLtouch setup questions.
1. BL offset setup?
2. TMC2208 endstop sensing?
3. So my BL is now my z endstop?
4. Is a BL considered a PNP or NPN; guessing the code automatically sets it up when selecting BL?
How do I setup a BLtouch when the sensor is not adjustable up or down? When it's deployed I'm guessing it's going to hit z endstop before the extruder hits. Then I'll retract it to drop the extruder with baby steps to calibrate z offset. I'm trying to set up with my TMC2208. Does z safe homing relate to the 2208 endstop sensing. I'm close, but need some confidence on not crashing head.
1. BL offset setup?
That's the measurement from the nozzle to the sensor.
2. TMC2208 endstop sensing?
No, but 2209's have it.
3. So my BL is now my z endstop?
It can be, or you can do both. Most times yes.
4. Is a BL considered a PNP or NPN; guessing the code automatically sets it up when selecting BL?
How do I setup a BLtouch when the sensor is not adjustable up or down? When it's deployed I'm guessing it's going to hit z endstop before the extruder hits. Then I'll retract it to drop the extruder with baby steps to calibrate z offset. I'm trying to set up with my TMC2208. Does z safe homing relate to the 2208 endstop sensing. I'm close, but need some confidence on not crashing head.
I am not sure, but I would call it an NPN, it will alert you if it is not set correctly. To setup the height there is some guess work involved, the bltouch doc trys to give you a guide for where to place it. The sensor should tap the bed before it hits the endstop. Correct, it will be up when babystepping. No z safe safe homing just lets you home in another location besides the corner of the bed.
TMC2208 dont support sensorless endstops, you'll need 2209s
would this all work the same if using the EZABL? it just connects to the Zstop and separate power
Yes, all the same, I will get to your email shortly.
I wish Marlin would warn you about high deviation like klipper does. you can set a value in klipper (I use 0.05) and if the deviation between 2 or more probes get higher it tries to probe again (I set it to try up to 2 times) and if that doesn't work it'll just stop and throw an error!
You have a few different names over accounts and Twitter so I am going with Ami...;) All kidding aside, Marlin is trying to get there. Check out.
//#define ABL_BILINEAR_SUBDIVISION
#if ENABLED(ABL_BILINEAR_SUBDIVISION)
// Number of subdivisions between probe points
#define BILINEAR_SUBDIVISIONS 3
#endif
@@ChrisRiley oh cool! But yeah xD I named this account emily (my real name is Amy) because I was worried about putting my real name in my channel but I now realize I was probably too paranoid. I'll probably see if I can change the channel name to my own again xD
Any chance I can chat with you real-time as I am trying to get my printer setup with the sensor it came with so I am a little confused on how to set it up :)
Hello, I don't have a lot of free time for chats, but if you have a few questions you can email me. brotherchris81@gmail.com