Ive been a machinist for 35 years and I have been trying to bond anything to delrin and have never found anything that would stick to it. Thanks for the info! Very helpful. Jeff in Oregon
Thank You Dale, I really enjoy the videos. This is a nice way to fix the oil lines, especially since new oil lines are becoming hard to find, and well over $100.
You bet; glad they are of some help. Yes, the oil lines are expensive and even NOS ones are 50 years old. I have had good luck repairing them like this.
Hello, I was wondering if you have a tour on rebuilding and setting the oil pump on this engine. Redoing one myself and don't want to mess anything up and run the cylinder or the main bearing dry of oil. Thanks!
These pumps were not meant to be rebuilt. Some venders are making seal kits for them, but that is not rebuilding. There are little balls and springs in there that fly everywhere. Ask me how I know. I personally have only seen one pump fail in all my years of working on these. My opinion is to find a used one or a NOS one and don't worry about rebuilding. I do have a video on adjusting the pump on a TC125, procedure is the same. Will be posting one on the TS250 in the coming months as that project nears an end. You probably just need to verify it is pumping oil. Start engine on premix, loosen banjo fittings at the engine, hold pump wide open at engine idle and watch the oil come from the banjo fittings. Won't be a lot but should be steady pumping of oil. Install bolts back to banjo fittings. Adjust pump and ride.
I use the clear/yellow tygon 3/16 line, because its fuel and oil resistant. I think you can get it in black too. But I like to be able to see it. I buy it from Amazon.
Hugh the way I check them is to prime the lines, just like I did in the latest tc125 video then watch the lines for a few days to see if the oil runs back to the pump or stays full to the banjo fittings. You can take them off and do the same but be careful with them they can break easy. If the check valves fail the oil will follow gravity and return to the pump.
Hi dale, great video , im just setting up the oil pump control arm ,in one manual it says half throttle the line on the arm aligns with the pump body , in another it says lines match at full throttle , how do you set up yours ?, many thanks Hugh.
Hi Hugh, man there are different procedures for these Suzuki pumps. My factory manual call for the throttle to be wide open and line the marks on the pump. This manual covers 71-75 TS250. However, I have heard of the same problems you are having. I set mine with this procedure and held my breath, so far so good. Don't know why they have these variations in procedures.
Hi Mr Sweger. I'm rebuilding a Suzuki LJ20 engine with the CCI system. It uses the same type molded oil lines. I tried cleaning out the lines and cant really blow through most of them. I did use some compressed air which I think might have damaged a couple of the check valves. I knew better but wasnt thinking at the time. Can you tell me how those check valves are made or what they look like. I may have to make new lines but wanted to get your opinion first. Thanks for the help, just subscribed!!!
Hi there, the check valves are the connections at the engine. The banjo fittings at the engine are the check valves. There is just a small ball inside that allows the oil to go toward the engine, but not in the reverse direction. I doubt that you hurt them with compressed air, probably the only way you could hurt them with compressed air is if you blew up the line. In which case you would know it. Turn the pressure down to about 5 or 10 psi, then blow toward the engine from the pump...air should flow and oil will come out at the engine end. Now try to blow back the other direction...NO flow. If this checks out... blow back the other way toward the engine just to make sure the ball is free again. Reassemble and bleed your lines. Always start engine with a little pre mix at first till you know the oil pump is working correctly, then go back to regular fuel. Thanks for hanging out with me in the shop, and thanks for the subscription.
@@montana2strokeracer Thank you Mr Sweger for your professional insight. I will try going over them again. Next will be a crank rebuild when I find a reputable machine shop, or maybe you would be willing to do it for me! 😁
Another question, have you ever run one with just mixed fuel, is there enough oil getting to that main bearing to run no pump? Seems like you know way more than me. Haha
I’m working on a 75 TC125. I had to replace some banjo fittings, but when I prime them when the oil makes it to the engine, it starts shooting out at the banjo I’m priming from. Is there any reason I wouldn’t be able to get oil into the engine? The engine is completely rebuilt, so I’m a little confused on what’s happening.
Have you got the banjos that have the check valves at the engine? That is were they should be. That way oil only flows from the pump to the engine. Check valves stop the oil from flowing back to the pump. If they are positioned correctly...are they allowing oil to flow through toward the engine? Remove the bolts from the engine banjo fittings and see if oil will now flow out. Hope this helps.
I think I have heard that they are available. So far I have not needed any. I have had good luck getting stuck ones freed up. Or buying used ones off ebay. You should be able to see if they are working buy blowing compressed air in one way, then blow it the opposite way. Air will go one way but not the other. Use only about 5 psi of pressure.
@@montana2strokeracer thanks for your help Dale. I’m think the check valve banjos were broken, and never bothered to be replaced. Finding banjos with check valves seems hard but I was able to find some OEM ones. Thanks again for the thoughtful responses
Any plumber has done this but with pvc glue haha you did basically the best you could possible due outside of paying 20x the price for OEM lines, likely just as old and prone to breaking as well.
Hi there, yes you just have to do what you can. Probably the best way, most durable, is to use Yamaha banjo fittings, black rubber line with the Yamaha clamps. All still available new. But it just wouldn't look right. I would probably just cut the line at the check valve, engine side and attach the rubber line and clamps and use the new banjo fittings at the pump.
Why not buy barbed banjo fittings and some hose clamps or use some safety wire as a hose clamp? Or just use a right angle barbed fitting and eliminate the banjos entirely
@@montana2strokeracer it was a question cause I wasn't for sure if the tiny holes in the banjos helped meter the oil , I know the pump does it on its own, I didn't know if the banjos were like their own restrictors
@@montana2strokeracer I cut my lines off, removed the crimp carefully, realized they were barbed, used some stiff, raider branded 1/8 fuel line, absolutely struggledto get it on, it was so tight. I gently heated the end dipping in boiled water, slid the ring crimp on the line, then slid banjo hose end on, let it cool, then used the shoulders that stop the hose from going to far to rest onto a mini vise and a 6mm open end wrench to straddle the left and right sides of the ring crimp and hammered the wrench to force the ring down, looks professional and I can't pull it off no matter how hard I pull.
Excellent video Dale,
I would never have thought the process would be successful but it is. Well done goodonyou and thanks.........
Well, me either, but I do have several that I repaired, and they are all still running. There really is not a lot of pressure in those lines.
Ive been a machinist for 35 years and I have been trying to bond anything to delrin and have never found anything that would stick to it. Thanks for the info! Very helpful. Jeff in Oregon
Thanks Jeff, this stuff works pretty well, ruff it up first. Thanks for stopping by.
Thank You Dale, I really enjoy the videos. This is a nice way to fix the oil lines, especially since new oil lines are becoming hard to find, and well over $100.
You bet; glad they are of some help. Yes, the oil lines are expensive and even NOS ones are 50 years old. I have had good luck repairing them like this.
I’m glad the KE 175 has removable hose. Thanks for sharing brother.
Yeah, most Yamaha's too.
Very good information, your videos are fantastic.
Thanks for the kind words Jeff. Are you working on or riding a vintage bike? If so what kind? Thanks for watchin.
Thanm you for the videos truly, working on a 72 ts250 and they help immensly keep on getting it!
Thanks for the kind words, love the 72 TS250, think it's my favorite.
see clocking the banjo fitting is also important.
Hello, I was wondering if you have a tour on rebuilding and setting the oil pump on this engine. Redoing one myself and don't want to mess anything up and run the cylinder or the main bearing dry of oil. Thanks!
These pumps were not meant to be rebuilt. Some venders are making seal kits for them, but that is not rebuilding. There are little balls and springs in there that fly everywhere. Ask me how I know. I personally have only seen one pump fail in all my years of working on these. My opinion is to find a used one or a NOS one and don't worry about rebuilding. I do have a video on adjusting the pump on a TC125, procedure is the same. Will be posting one on the TS250 in the coming months as that project nears an end. You probably just need to verify it is pumping oil. Start engine on premix, loosen banjo fittings at the engine, hold pump wide open at engine idle and watch the oil come from the banjo fittings. Won't be a lot but should be steady pumping of oil. Install bolts back to banjo fittings. Adjust pump and ride.
Hi Dale, any recomendation for a good tubing for the oil tank to pump line? Thank you.
I use the clear/yellow tygon 3/16 line, because its fuel and oil resistant. I think you can get it in black too. But I like to be able to see it. I buy it from Amazon.
Hi Dale ,how do you test the check valves ? thanks Hugh
Hugh the way I check them is to prime the lines, just like I did in the latest tc125 video then watch the lines for a few days to see if the oil runs back to the pump or stays full to the banjo fittings. You can take them off and do the same but be careful with them they can break easy. If the check valves fail the oil will follow gravity and return to the pump.
Hi dale, great video , im just setting up the oil pump control arm ,in one manual it says half throttle the line on the arm aligns with the pump body , in another it says lines match at full throttle , how do you set up yours ?, many thanks Hugh.
Hi Hugh, man there are different procedures for these Suzuki pumps. My factory manual call for the throttle to be wide open and line the marks on the pump. This manual covers 71-75 TS250. However, I have heard of the same problems you are having. I set mine with this procedure and held my breath, so far so good. Don't know why they have these variations in procedures.
Hi Dale, ive got 3 dots on mine do you think full throttle and top dot on the arm ,line on pump body ? thanks Hugh
@@montana2strokeracer
Hi Mr Sweger. I'm rebuilding a Suzuki LJ20 engine with the CCI system. It uses the same type molded oil lines. I tried cleaning out the lines and cant really blow through most of them. I did use some compressed air which I think might have damaged a couple of the check valves. I knew better but wasnt thinking at the time. Can you tell me how those check valves are made or what they look like. I may have to make new lines but wanted to get your opinion first. Thanks for the help, just subscribed!!!
Hi there, the check valves are the connections at the engine. The banjo fittings at the engine are the check valves. There is just a small ball inside that allows the oil to go toward the engine, but not in the reverse direction. I doubt that you hurt them with compressed air, probably the only way you could hurt them with compressed air is if you blew up the line. In which case you would know it. Turn the pressure down to about 5 or 10 psi, then blow toward the engine from the pump...air should flow and oil will come out at the engine end. Now try to blow back the other direction...NO flow. If this checks out... blow back the other way toward the engine just to make sure the ball is free again. Reassemble and bleed your lines. Always start engine with a little pre mix at first till you know the oil pump is working correctly, then go back to regular fuel. Thanks for hanging out with me in the shop, and thanks for the subscription.
@@montana2strokeracer Thank you Mr Sweger for your professional insight. I will try going over them again. Next will be a crank rebuild when I find a reputable machine shop, or maybe you would be willing to do it for me! 😁
where did u get the tubing, thanks
Mcmaster Carr
Another question, have you ever run one with just mixed fuel, is there enough oil getting to that main bearing to run no pump? Seems like you know way more than me. Haha
Hi, check this video out and the one after it. I talk about premix verses oil injection in both videos
th-cam.com/video/e6W2dmPnY0M/w-d-xo.html
I’m working on a 75 TC125. I had to replace some banjo fittings, but when I prime them when the oil makes it to the engine, it starts shooting out at the banjo I’m priming from. Is there any reason I wouldn’t be able to get oil into the engine? The engine is completely rebuilt, so I’m a little confused on what’s happening.
Have you got the banjos that have the check valves at the engine? That is were they should be. That way oil only flows from the pump to the engine. Check valves stop the oil from flowing back to the pump. If they are positioned correctly...are they allowing oil to flow through toward the engine? Remove the bolts from the engine banjo fittings and see if oil will now flow out. Hope this helps.
@@montana2strokeracer im not sure the stock banjo fittings were on there. Do you know where I can find banjos that have check valves?
I think I have heard that they are available. So far I have not needed any. I have had good luck getting stuck ones freed up. Or buying used ones off ebay. You should be able to see if they are working buy blowing compressed air in one way, then blow it the opposite way. Air will go one way but not the other. Use only about 5 psi of pressure.
@@montana2strokeracer thanks for your help Dale. I’m think the check valve banjos were broken, and never bothered to be replaced. Finding banjos with check valves seems hard but I was able to find some OEM ones. Thanks again for the thoughtful responses
@@elivatsaas7590 Thats awesome, hope you get her up and running without any other issues. Thanks for hanging out with me in the shop!
Any plumber has done this but with pvc glue haha you did basically the best you could possible due outside of paying 20x the price for OEM lines, likely just as old and prone to breaking as well.
Hi there, yes you just have to do what you can. Probably the best way, most durable, is to use Yamaha banjo fittings, black rubber line with the Yamaha clamps. All still available new. But it just wouldn't look right. I would probably just cut the line at the check valve, engine side and attach the rubber line and clamps and use the new banjo fittings at the pump.
@@montana2strokeracer I like your method more though, like you said it just wouldn't look right.
Why not buy barbed banjo fittings and some hose clamps or use some safety wire as a hose clamp? Or just use a right angle barbed fitting and eliminate the banjos entirely
Sure, no reason why you cant do that, sounds like a good alternative to me. Thanks
@@montana2strokeracer it was a question cause I wasn't for sure if the tiny holes in the banjos helped meter the oil , I know the pump does it on its own, I didn't know if the banjos were like their own restrictors
@@montana2strokeracer I cut my lines off, removed the crimp carefully, realized they were barbed, used some stiff, raider branded 1/8 fuel line, absolutely struggledto get it on, it was so tight. I gently heated the end dipping in boiled water, slid the ring crimp on the line, then slid banjo hose end on, let it cool, then used the shoulders that stop the hose from going to far to rest onto a mini vise and a 6mm open end wrench to straddle the left and right sides of the ring crimp and hammered the wrench to force the ring down, looks professional and I can't pull it off no matter how hard I pull.
@@xxjusxstarxx Excellent, you did your homework on this. This is a great repair. I will keep it in mind for sure. Thanks for sharing.