I love how your get your hands on a Sekonic meter and start running around the neighborhood like a man drunk with power, checking the CRI of everything you can see. You're ridiculous, and I love it.
I have never heard of negative CRI, but now I understand why I could not get rid of the green color on photos from a local sports center with "street-light-style" lights. Great video!
Cheap LED phosphors don't have much red emitters at all, because they'd need to put more rare earths in there. They do contain a cheap green phosphor, and usually give a CRI no higher than ~70.
As someone who still uses a hand meter for on-location and studio based work, I found this whole vlog fascinating and very interesting. It reminds me of photography school in 1980...when we actually had to KNOW technical information to perfect the craft. I thought color meters were cool, but this....this is on another planet.
I bought a Sekonic C-800 last year, after having debated it for almost two years. It cost around €1800. Didn't really know if I was gonna use it that much. Now that I have it I use it more or less like you do in this video, I measure EVERYTHING haha.... If you're on the fence, just buy it! It's super useful for both photography with flashes, video with LEDs and even natural light. It gives ju a very good starting point for post production in both photography and video. Because even if a light is specified to 5600K or 3200K, that's not always what you're getting. Switching light modifier from an umbrella to a softbox can easily change the color temperature by 1000K or even more. I have learned to never trust the specification of color temperature on an LED or a flash.
Great video on a dry subject. One thing of note is that was missing is that on your Aputure light for instance is that the modifier will be causing colour shifts. The aputure domes cause shifts towards green from memory, where as something from DOP choice will be more neutral.
1) brilliant video idea. 2) the pacing was great. I watched every second from beginning to end because you edited in a way to keep my attention. 3) I wonder what the AVD will be on this video?!? 4) congrats on the product launch. 5) I hope Gerald does a video on it 🙂
Always with the informative content! It's wild how complex each and every aspect of filmmaking can be. It's truly no wonder why there are specialists in all of these areas on every movie set. Thanks for taking the deep dive for us, man!
I rarely sign in to my TH-cam account and post comments but this video was so well done and this info is what all videographers/filmmakers need to know. Very well done Josh! Love what you do!
Great video! Btw: Apart from other factors color is a key reason why studio stills photographers continue to use flash over LEDs. Continuous lights would make it super easy to judge light, obviously. The modelling light would simply be THE light. But if that comes at the cost of color accuracy it's a no go. It will get there but it's not there yet. At least not at reasonable prices. One question: Have you tried measuring actual Philips Hue lights as well?
From a flashlight enthusiast, I think the reading you were getting for the IF 25A is correct but I think the marketing misled you. From their website they say that the emitter can be either SST-20 LED 6500K (70CRI) or 4x SST20 LED 4000K (95CRI). This makes me think that you were using a 6500k version of this light. If you want a flashlight with high CRI (and R9 values) there are many options! The emitters used in many of these high end lights can also be found in some flashlights, such as the Nichia 219b/c, E21a, and B35AM R9080, GT FC40. These emitters are less efficient than something like an SST-20 in 6500k but will produce a higher output at the same voltage and amperage. That's where you get poor CRI but high output. Also emitter ting plays a huge role in the way the light looks. I have a couple XPL-HI emitters in 2850k that are about 80-85 CRI but they look totally different to each other. They might have the same CRI, but it's clear that their R9 values must be different. I also have an LHD351D in 2700k that apparently is 90 CRI but I absolutely hate because of it's lack of good red tones. TL;DR I think the flashlight is capable of more and you were reading the specs of a different emitter, but I could be wrong! I do know that there are many flashlights with amazing emitters that are able to produce high R9 values, but this subject is complex and I don't totally understand it even though I have a dozen different emitters/LEDs. Also the YiaMia light panel can be found for 20 bucks, and has >95 CRI with a great R9 value and very good tint. the r/flashlight community welcomes everyone too!
This is very helpful information, def willing to take a second look. Can you recommend a solid flashlight, (powerful beam) with also a high CRI and good r9 +r13? Looking to manufacture one for Orbit. Could use an amazing kicker backlight.
As a flashlight geek myself, I was thinking the same thing. The high CRI version of the SST-20 from the independent tests I've seen has about an 85 R9 rating. I'm sure you'd be able to tell 4000K from 6500K to determine if you were sent the wrong one. Check the Amazon order and make sure you ordered the 4000K version, if you did, contact them and let them make things right. As for powerful lights with good CRI, check out Fireflies lights, more specifically the PL09MU and the NOV-MU, both of which utilize Nichia's E21A which has pretty high R9 and R13.
@@MAKEARTNOWCHANNEL I have a flashlight (Emisar D4) with the 4x SST20 LED 4000K (95CRI), and to me it appears to be over 90. The light quality is exceptionally good, definitely no green cast, and red hues are vibrant under it. Like the other suggest, I'd suspect that it's not the 95 CRI leds. I'm not a professional, but compared to 5 other light sources I have that claim >90-95 cri, it appears to be one of the better ones. I can also vouch for what Taylor Jackman says in general.
Exceptional video - it shows the impossible - Josh in something other than denim! Happy New Year to you and yours Josh! Looking forward to more great things ahead!
I'm always blown away by the casual way an expert can so confidently riff about such complex subjects. I don't care at all about artificial lights, but enjoyed every second of this.
9:29 I can actually relate to that problem, on my PC Setup I have an RGB + W LED strip on my desk and have it on white mode (specifically white LEDs, not RGB) but my RGB PC peripherals dont have white LEDs so on the software I kind of "trick it" into emitting true white by setting it to a specific tone of red. That way all the lights have the same type of white.
A great one, thanks. Since having my own Sekonic c-800 I do the same, … measuring any light I get in touch with. ;) As far as I know, industry only measures (or at least did so) only 8 of 15 values not even including R9 and R13. As these two are most relevant for skin tones.
SSI is much much more useful tool for filmmakers. Try using it. Cuz some manufacturers can cheat the CRI scale (idk how but that's what Curtis Judd has said in his videos) and get high CRI numbers without the light actually being very good for skintones. That being said most of the big name manufacturers like arri, lupo, aputure etc do also have a good SSI Good luck
You can compare SSI with the C7000 (and the cheaper C800). Sekonic themselves have a video on CRI, TLCI (which it's worth giving a shout out to Alan Roberts and the GBCT for), TM-30 and SSI.
btw, as a photographer, when i have to shoot with very poor quality light (quite normal since many places buy cheaps led lights), i just shoot in black and white.
Compact Cine Fluorescents are still my favs... beautiful soft, natural color with an umbrella. Some of the COB LEDs do look promising. I've never been a fan of LED panels or edge lights. Also, camera sensors see colors differently. You need to test and match your gear combos. Also, sometimes, the defective color spectrums are what you want. I wish I had a portable high-pressure Sodium Vapor light.
In my opinion, the foundation of a lighting kit is the fresnels. That said, im told that some of the COB lights are getting pretty good. Still not quite as good as tungsten, but they also have benefits that tungsten lights don’t have, such as power consumption and heat. I’ve never used compact cine fluorescents, but back in the day I have extensively used Kino Flos. Great system. I’d quite like to get my hands on a Aputure LS 300 or 600 and the matching Fresnel accessory. The accessory incorporates an interior lens that focuses the beam before it hits the Fresnel.
Great educational video. I am simply looking for the best quality led downlighting for my kitchen that i can afford. Does anyone have any suggestions? What brands ate used in retail stores? Thdnks again.
Nice video. It would be great for you to test an RGBACL lamp, which is far more advanced than an RGBWW fixture. At Prolycht we make the Orion 300 FS which not only has extremely high scores in CRI, TM30, SSI and any other scale one could measure, but also retains that color accuracy throughout the range of 2000-20,000 Kelvin color temperature. If you’d like to try one please let me know.
Man, You're The Best, I'm just an amateur and have just a dslr camera and some DIY led lights but i looove watching your videos even tho you Don't upload so often, keep it joshyo !
Gas absorbs some frequencies of light. With this method we can check the composition of atmosperes from foreign planets with the missing parts of the spectrum. The light going through the atmosphere of earth also absorbs some frequencies, therefore you end up with a CRI of 98 and not 100.,
Wow this was better than any book I've read on the subject. Makes me wonder if I should buy lots of classic lightbulbs (they are still legal here in NZ, but probably not for long), as those photography LED's are just crazy expensive.
Tungsten is great BUT the physical power needed to consistently run Arri lamps is insane. have about 30-40 Arri lamps ranging from 650-8k’s and have often had 3 phase cables give up over a long shoot. Now I get excited about things like the Amaran Cob 60s & stuff you can run anywhere and put in your carry on 👌
Yeah that sounds like a lot. Way more than I have ever used. It's an interesting time to be in our field a lot of new technology is displacing tried and true methods. It's def opening new possibilities for younger filmmakers.
Thank you Josh, your video your just saved me a ton of headaches for set lighting! I'm buying all incandescent light bulbs right now lol I enjoy every one of your videos cuz you've got an awesome personality, especially for a youtuber! also..guess what Josh, I made a made 1.33x anamorphic APSC lens made with the MOMENT mavic 2 anamorphic lens adapter; taped to the front of my 50mm [full frame] lens. I want to make a video showing everyone how I made it, and it only cost me about $45ish to make the lens; with shipping, plus the vintage Nikkor, 50mm f2.0, full frame lens [which I had laying around].
I wish you could Deliver went me in Garden Grove I would like to meet you one of these days you seem like an awesome guy I think I can learn a lot from you.
That Sofirn flashlight comes in two options: 6500k and 4000k. The 6500k is low Ra, higher output. The 4000k is very high Ra, lower output. Misleading amazon title but good flashlight
It is like a very enriching master class, I would like to know more about making the teal and orange using correct side lights, it would be a boom! 💣💥💥💥💥💥💥💥💥💥
When you went out to measure the light of the sun, were you thinking about what time is it? the weather outside? everything effects the light. I would like to post this video on my website if possible, you made it so clear to understand
Other than the lights with negative R9 values, this is the equivalent of pixel peeping. The real-practical use of the spectrometer is to pair up your lights (or supplement them) so you have uniform lighting (and color grading) across the set (and video).
Got some RGBACL lighting, not orbiter and it was nearly perfect. One thing makes RGBACL better than RGBWW is it has better uniformity of brightness across all colors. But RGBWW has also pro, usually more brighter than RGBACL for same bucks.
👍👍❤❤👍👍❤❤👍👍❤❤ in pursuit of 99,9 CRI,pls if you have godox 685 to test Ra R9 and R12,that Sekonic Spectrometer is like police S.W.A.T. in neighborhood of bad light
Apple uses an un specified Nichia emitter for their flash, high CRI and a very good CCT. It's a very good light quality, even if it is dim! I believe most other phones use similar emitters, giving their flash ~95 CRI as well and the last 3 android phones I've used have had dual CCT emitters.
I really loved the concept and information of this video. I wish there were more deep dives into these aspects of cinematography on popular channels. Just in my personal opinion (I know this is very subjective) the editing and especially the music, made it very difficult for me to structure the information and focus. It kinda felt like the whole first half of the video was a very long intro. I hope that is helpful information and doesn't feel like nagging.
If your metering scale is indexed to sunlight, and the meter shows something at odds to that when you meter the sun, perhaps something is wrong with your meter.
Amazing video! Question will the quality differ from light to light if it is the "same light" like a 300D from Aputure. Will the colors be 100 percent the same on all models, or will it be a difference? In my case, the Aputure 200d, it is very cheap 300 Dollar light. I feel like the color is very cold white. Not looking like the sun at all. Too blue. What gels should I use to match it? I do not have a light-meter and I hava CTO's. Different steps, from 1/4 to full. Is this the right ones to use to get it warmer and more like the sun. When I used it, it got too warm, i felt like.
Tungsten is a pain to use compared to high end LED's, but I still use them on most of my shoots because they're still as good as it gets for a 10th of the price of an equivalent LED. Every DP/gaffer should have a couple Par Cans and incandescent bulbs with dimmers. They're so cheap that if they're used twice they've already saved you money.
You might be right actually. The kelvin on the readings looks closer to 6k than 4K. But still, I wouldn't put it past them that they could have gamed it as well. Would be the third device that has done that in my collection. Good eyes though!! It's def a possibility snd I'm willing to recant my accusation if proved wrong!
Dang, I should have read all the comments before I posted mine. I just said a similar thing, it looks like the Luminus SST-20 LED 6500K (70CRI) instead of the SST20 LED 4000K (95CRI).
![[ ออกกอง ] วัยหนุ่ม 2544 โลกหลังลูกกรง..ทัวร์กองถ่ายหนังใน "คุกของจริง" | JUSTดูIT.](http://i.ytimg.com/vi/vB--aOkZCpw/mqdefault.jpg)
I love how your get your hands on a Sekonic meter and start running around the neighborhood like a man drunk with power, checking the CRI of everything you can see. You're ridiculous, and I love it.
Loved the "drunk with power" hahahah
It costs $2,300.............
O.O
I have never heard of negative CRI, but now I understand why I could not get rid of the green color on photos from a local sports center with "street-light-style" lights. Great video!
maybe you should try filter on the lens... we use to do it in film days...
Cheap LED phosphors don't have much red emitters at all, because they'd need to put more rare earths in there. They do contain a cheap green phosphor, and usually give a CRI no higher than ~70.
As someone who still uses a hand meter for on-location and studio based work, I found this whole vlog fascinating and very interesting. It reminds me of photography school in 1980...when we actually had to KNOW technical information to perfect the craft. I thought color meters were cool, but this....this is on another planet.
I bought a Sekonic C-800 last year, after having debated it for almost two years. It cost around €1800. Didn't really know if I was gonna use it that much. Now that I have it I use it more or less like you do in this video, I measure EVERYTHING haha.... If you're on the fence, just buy it! It's super useful for both photography with flashes, video with LEDs and even natural light. It gives ju a very good starting point for post production in both photography and video. Because even if a light is specified to 5600K or 3200K, that's not always what you're getting. Switching light modifier from an umbrella to a softbox can easily change the color temperature by 1000K or even more. I have learned to never trust the specification of color temperature on an LED or a flash.
Great video on a dry subject. One thing of note is that was missing is that on your Aputure light for instance is that the modifier will be causing colour shifts. The aputure domes cause shifts towards green from memory, where as something from DOP choice will be more neutral.
1) brilliant video idea.
2) the pacing was great. I watched every second from beginning to end because you edited in a way to keep my attention.
3) I wonder what the AVD will be on this video?!?
4) congrats on the product launch.
5) I hope Gerald does a video on it 🙂
Always with the informative content! It's wild how complex each and every aspect of filmmaking can be. It's truly no wonder why there are specialists in all of these areas on every movie set. Thanks for taking the deep dive for us, man!
This is the perfect video to end the year on, I was literally wondering about CRI stuff yesterday!
I rarely sign in to my TH-cam account and post comments but this video was so well done and this info is what all videographers/filmmakers need to know. Very well done Josh! Love what you do!
Great video! Btw: Apart from other factors color is a key reason why studio stills photographers continue to use flash over LEDs. Continuous lights would make it super easy to judge light, obviously. The modelling light would simply be THE light. But if that comes at the cost of color accuracy it's a no go. It will get there but it's not there yet. At least not at reasonable prices.
One question: Have you tried measuring actual Philips Hue lights as well?
I'm so glad that you called out the disingenuousness of many lighting manufacturers. We as consumers, deserve better!
Yeah! I agree.
From a flashlight enthusiast, I think the reading you were getting for the IF 25A is correct but I think the marketing misled you. From their website they say that the emitter can be either SST-20 LED 6500K (70CRI) or 4x SST20 LED 4000K (95CRI). This makes me think that you were using a 6500k version of this light. If you want a flashlight with high CRI (and R9 values) there are many options! The emitters used in many of these high end lights can also be found in some flashlights, such as the Nichia 219b/c, E21a, and B35AM R9080, GT FC40. These emitters are less efficient than something like an SST-20 in 6500k but will produce a higher output at the same voltage and amperage. That's where you get poor CRI but high output.
Also emitter ting plays a huge role in the way the light looks. I have a couple XPL-HI emitters in 2850k that are about 80-85 CRI but they look totally different to each other. They might have the same CRI, but it's clear that their R9 values must be different. I also have an LHD351D in 2700k that apparently is 90 CRI but I absolutely hate because of it's lack of good red tones.
TL;DR I think the flashlight is capable of more and you were reading the specs of a different emitter, but I could be wrong! I do know that there are many flashlights with amazing emitters that are able to produce high R9 values, but this subject is complex and I don't totally understand it even though I have a dozen different emitters/LEDs.
Also the YiaMia light panel can be found for 20 bucks, and has >95 CRI with a great R9 value and very good tint. the r/flashlight community welcomes everyone too!
This is very helpful information, def willing to take a second look. Can you recommend a solid flashlight, (powerful beam) with also a high CRI and good r9 +r13? Looking to manufacture one for Orbit. Could use an amazing kicker backlight.
As a flashlight geek myself, I was thinking the same thing. The high CRI version of the SST-20 from the independent tests I've seen has about an 85 R9 rating. I'm sure you'd be able to tell 4000K from 6500K to determine if you were sent the wrong one.
Check the Amazon order and make sure you ordered the 4000K version, if you did, contact them and let them make things right.
As for powerful lights with good CRI, check out Fireflies lights, more specifically the PL09MU and the NOV-MU, both of which utilize Nichia's E21A which has pretty high R9 and R13.
@@MAKEARTNOWCHANNEL I have a flashlight (Emisar D4) with the 4x SST20 LED 4000K (95CRI), and to me it appears to be over 90. The light quality is exceptionally good, definitely no green cast, and red hues are vibrant under it. Like the other suggest, I'd suspect that it's not the 95 CRI leds. I'm not a professional, but compared to 5 other light sources I have that claim >90-95 cri, it appears to be one of the better ones.
I can also vouch for what Taylor Jackman says in general.
Right on time. A couple of my light bulbs just recently burned out. I'm delighted.
Great episode. Informative without being overly tedious and technical..
Exceptional video - it shows the impossible - Josh in something other than denim! Happy New Year to you and yours Josh! Looking forward to more great things ahead!
This was a WEALTH of knowledge for me. Thank you so much for this.
I'm always blown away by the casual way an expert can so confidently riff about such complex subjects. I don't care at all about artificial lights, but enjoyed every second of this.
That was a great video! Please more cool nerdy in-depth things like that! And happy New Year!
9:29 I can actually relate to that problem, on my PC Setup I have an RGB + W LED strip on my desk and have it on white mode (specifically white LEDs, not RGB) but my RGB PC peripherals dont have white LEDs so on the software I kind of "trick it" into emitting true white by setting it to a specific tone of red. That way all the lights have the same type of white.
The best spectrum bulbs are the GE Sunfilled, try metering those! Better than Aputure
What I got from this entire video? The Marbl I ordered will have awesome CRI! lollz Keep up the great vids Josh and happy 2022!
One of the best vids on CRI I've seen!
A great one, thanks. Since having my own Sekonic c-800 I do the same, … measuring any light I get in touch with. ;) As far as I know, industry only measures (or at least did so) only 8 of 15 values not even including R9 and R13. As these two are most relevant for skin tones.
SSI is much much more useful tool for filmmakers. Try using it. Cuz some manufacturers can cheat the CRI scale (idk how but that's what Curtis Judd has said in his videos) and get high CRI numbers without the light actually being very good for skintones. That being said most of the big name manufacturers like arri, lupo, aputure etc do also have a good SSI
Good luck
Yeah I'll work on that one next if I get my hands on another spectrometer!
You can compare SSI with the C7000 (and the cheaper C800).
Sekonic themselves have a video on CRI, TLCI (which it's worth giving a shout out to Alan Roberts and the GBCT for), TM-30 and SSI.
Super awesome video!! Loved it! You always manage to keep me so engaged in your videos!!!!!!!!
The dedication in this clip is off the charts 📈
Josh. CONGRATS on 400K. Your are making great decisions; yielding great results.
Best CRI explanation I have seen! Thanks 👌
btw, as a photographer, when i have to shoot with very poor quality light (quite normal since many places buy cheaps led lights), i just shoot in black and white.
Compact Cine Fluorescents are still my favs... beautiful soft, natural color with an umbrella. Some of the COB LEDs do look promising. I've never been a fan of LED panels or edge lights. Also, camera sensors see colors differently. You need to test and match your gear combos. Also, sometimes, the defective color spectrums are what you want. I wish I had a portable high-pressure Sodium Vapor light.
In my opinion, the foundation of a lighting kit is the fresnels.
That said, im told that some of the COB lights are getting pretty good. Still not quite as good as tungsten, but they also have benefits that tungsten lights don’t have, such as power consumption and heat.
I’ve never used compact cine fluorescents, but back in the day I have extensively used Kino Flos. Great system.
I’d quite like to get my hands on a Aputure LS 300 or 600 and the matching Fresnel accessory. The accessory incorporates an interior lens that focuses the beam before it hits the Fresnel.
Fantastic video! Learned a lot and was very entertained in the process, thanks man👊
Have a great 2022
Great educational video. I am simply looking for the best quality led downlighting for my kitchen that i can afford. Does anyone have any suggestions? What brands ate used in retail stores? Thdnks again.
Notification squad! Thanks for the vid Josh!
Very nice and informative video. Would love to see how u grade footage from those lights and if there are nice workflows to get a good correction. ❤
Nice video. It would be great for you to test an RGBACL lamp, which is far more advanced than an RGBWW fixture. At Prolycht we make the Orion 300 FS which not only has extremely high scores in CRI, TM30, SSI and any other scale one could measure, but also retains that color accuracy throughout the range of 2000-20,000 Kelvin color temperature. If you’d like to try one please let me know.
You have my attention. Please send me a DM with the details. Maybe we can work something out.
Replied via your website.
Man, You're The Best, I'm just an amateur and have just a dslr camera and some DIY led lights but i looove watching your videos even tho you Don't upload so often, keep it joshyo !
All the local paint departments have lighting with poor CRI.
U continue to stay ahead of the TH-cam evolution bro💪🏾👍🏾
Love your videos man! They are entertaining and informative. Keep up the good work 👍🏻
regardless of light source, camera settings can negate and/or alter CRI. lots of variable in the chain of command.
Gas absorbs some frequencies of light. With this method we can check the composition of atmosperes from foreign planets with the missing parts of the spectrum. The light going through the atmosphere of earth also absorbs some frequencies, therefore you end up with a CRI of 98 and not 100.,
Love this. Makes sense.
This was fantastic, I loved this explanation so much. One of my favorite videos from you ever
How are these very orange light bulbs very color accurate/ have the highest CRI values, because they exaggerate the orange red tones.
(4:32)
I just totally geeked out.
Wasn't expecting so much professional fun.
Very time I come up here I learn something new. Thank you 👍
I really appreciate you taking the time to make this video
Low key flexing with one of the best lights in the last minute.
Bahahah. More of an update and how we got here, but yes, I see your point.
Wow this was better than any book I've read on the subject. Makes me wonder if I should buy lots of classic lightbulbs (they are still legal here in NZ, but probably not for long), as those photography LED's are just crazy expensive.
It wouldn’t hurt if you have a safe place to store them, but it’s probably a non-issue.
Learned a lot but man that was nerdy
Nice job Josh kept me interested to the end
I love this video. It might be a little technical but I super appreciated the information. Thanks for the deep dive!
This blew my mind… would never have known any of this (and I feel like I look into everything). Thank you 🥂
Woah. Thanks for the information no one else was telling us!
Glad I stuck around to the end, learned a lot in this one!
What a great video. Great information delivered at a great pace.
*such a informative and eye opener .. i am definitely pay more attention to this stuff when using and buying lights*
Great video Josh! I loved the way this was explained.
great and informative video, thanks for lighting our doubs
Tungsten is great BUT the physical power needed to consistently run Arri lamps is insane. have about 30-40 Arri lamps ranging from 650-8k’s and have often had 3 phase cables give up over a long shoot. Now I get excited about things like the Amaran Cob 60s & stuff you can run anywhere and put in your carry on 👌
Yeah that sounds like a lot. Way more than I have ever used. It's an interesting time to be in our field a lot of new technology is displacing tried and true methods. It's def opening new possibilities for younger filmmakers.
Could you also get into SSI (Spectral Similarity Index) in a future video?
informative as always, love the nerd out sessions like this so good! :D
Thank you Josh, your video your just saved me a ton of headaches for set lighting!
I'm buying all incandescent light bulbs right now lol
I enjoy every one of your videos cuz you've got an awesome personality, especially for a youtuber!
also..guess what Josh, I made a made 1.33x anamorphic APSC lens made with the MOMENT mavic 2 anamorphic lens adapter; taped to the front of my 50mm [full frame] lens.
I want to make a video showing everyone how I made it, and it only cost me about $45ish to make the lens; with shipping, plus the vintage Nikkor, 50mm f2.0, full frame lens [which I had laying around].
I use Soraa's vivid line, 95+ and R9 95+ with full spec sheets for every model for background lighting.
Loved it. Making school great again 👨🏫
Love rabbit holes like these
damn im early thats nuts! thanks for the content and happy new year to you all!
amazing video - learned a lot from you - thank you very much
This was fascinating, very interesting video, I'm intrigued by this even more now.
Please let us know on what brand of LED strips we should get for our own projects??
I enjoyed every second of this!
I wish you could Deliver went me in Garden Grove I would like to meet you one of these days you seem like an awesome guy I think I can learn a lot from you.
Excellent video. Great info and super entertaining 👍
TM-30 is ment to bee used for light viewed by the naked eye as far as I understand. SSI is more relevent for camera performance.
That Sofirn flashlight comes in two options: 6500k and 4000k. The 6500k is low Ra, higher output. The 4000k is very high Ra, lower output. Misleading amazon title but good flashlight
Did you have the possibility to check out the Prolycht Orion 300? That supposed to be great.
It is like a very enriching master class, I would like to know more about making the teal and orange using correct side lights, it would be a boom! 💣💥💥💥💥💥💥💥💥💥
When you went out to measure the light of the sun, were you thinking about what time is it? the weather outside? everything effects the light. I would like to post this video on my website if possible, you made it so clear to understand
Yeah go for it
A topic I literally don't care about which is still gripping enough is a testament to Josh's elite tier editing skills
Other than the lights with negative R9 values, this is the equivalent of pixel peeping. The real-practical use of the spectrometer is to pair up your lights (or supplement them) so you have uniform lighting (and color grading) across the set (and video).
This is so perfect for my future studio.
Great video, really interesting. Thanks!
FOUR-HUNGEY - Congrats!
Got some RGBACL lighting, not orbiter and it was nearly perfect. One thing makes RGBACL better than RGBWW is it has better uniformity of brightness across all colors. But RGBWW has also pro, usually more brighter than RGBACL for same bucks.
I miss Storyballs.
Happy New year dude.
woow, this explains a lot! Great video!
I thought I knew a lot about CRI but there was a lot of cool information in this video :o
👍👍❤❤👍👍❤❤👍👍❤❤ in pursuit of 99,9 CRI,pls if you have godox 685 to test Ra R9 and R12,that Sekonic Spectrometer is like police S.W.A.T. in neighborhood of bad light
Any chance you can do a budget comparison for lights?
Should point out iPhone flash is dual tone ( also called TrueTone), many phones are single tone
Apple uses an un specified Nichia emitter for their flash, high CRI and a very good CCT. It's a very good light quality, even if it is dim!
I believe most other phones use similar emitters, giving their flash ~95 CRI as well and the last 3 android phones I've used have had dual CCT emitters.
I really loved the concept and information of this video. I wish there were more deep dives into these aspects of cinematography on popular channels.
Just in my personal opinion (I know this is very subjective) the editing and especially the music, made it very difficult for me to structure the information and focus. It kinda felt like the whole first half of the video was a very long intro.
I hope that is helpful information and doesn't feel like nagging.
If your metering scale is indexed to sunlight, and the meter shows something at odds to that when you meter the sun, perhaps something is wrong with your meter.
Getting bill nye flashbacks from the structure of your videos, love it!
Amazing video! Question will the quality differ from light to light if it is the "same light" like a 300D from Aputure. Will the colors be 100 percent the same on all models, or will it be a difference? In my case, the Aputure 200d, it is very cheap 300 Dollar light. I feel like the color is very cold white. Not looking like the sun at all. Too blue. What gels should I use to match it? I do not have a light-meter and I hava CTO's. Different steps, from 1/4 to full. Is this the right ones to use to get it warmer and more like the sun. When I used it, it got too warm, i felt like.
We just talked about this in our studio and needed info! It's like you heard us!😂
Tungsten is a pain to use compared to high end LED's, but I still use them on most of my shoots because they're still as good as it gets for a 10th of the price of an equivalent LED. Every DP/gaffer should have a couple Par Cans and incandescent bulbs with dimmers. They're so cheap that if they're used twice they've already saved you money.
This was pretty epic. Thanks
Only you can make a nerdy thing so interesting hahaha thanks for the huge amount of information
that sofirn if25a u got looks more like the 6500k one, only the 4000k have 95cri. they probably sent the wrong one...
You might be right actually. The kelvin on the readings looks closer to 6k than 4K. But still, I wouldn't put it past them that they could have gamed it as well. Would be the third device that has done that in my collection. Good eyes though!! It's def a possibility snd I'm willing to recant my accusation if proved wrong!
Dang, I should have read all the comments before I posted mine. I just said a similar thing, it looks like the Luminus SST-20 LED 6500K (70CRI) instead of the SST20 LED 4000K (95CRI).
Came here to say this. Good catch!
@@tacticalgrizzly9828 love to see it! Crazy to see you here, I was just reading your kr1 review.
Like the background soundtrack. What is it?