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- เผยแพร่เมื่อ 17 ต.ค. 2024
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How to fix a Nikki Carburetor that floods out when sitting. These carburetors are primarily found on Briggs and Stratton Intek Engines. Fuel from a flooding carburetor will drain into the cylinder and seep past the rings into the crankcase and mix with the oil, thinning it and severely compromising the lubricity. If left unchecked it can and often does cause catastrophic engine failure. Nikki Carburetors have a few inexpensive components that can cause flooding issues, replacing them solves the problem the majority of the time.
Cleaning a Nikki carburetor:
• Clean And Repair Nikki...
Parts:
Float Bowl gasket (with separate fuel inlet O ring) - B&S 698781 amzn.to/2DVGkIm
Float Bowl gasket (with integrated fuel inlet seal) - B&S 695426 amzn.to/30pNMF8
Fuel inlet needle - B&S 696136 amzn.to/2VQSi01
Airbox to intake O-Ring -B&S 697123 amzn.to/2DWT3uz
Nailed it. Excellent tutorial that solved my Toro LX426 with 20 hp B&S flooding problem. Who would have thought that tiny O ring was the issue, not me for sure.
searching youtube yesterday for this exact fix, didn't find it, then this video pops up as receommended today...i must have been using the wrong keywords in my search, you da man
Thank you for making this video, I've been watching video's for hours none of which was for the nikki carb that I have on my piece of shit Briggs and Stratton 17.5hp that I'm alway's having to work on, this time it's flooding gas into my engine and I can't have that shit. So of corse ppl saying it's the solenoid or it's this or could be that, having me confused on what direction to go in. Then I see your video and right off the bat confirmed what I already thought was the issue that small o ring is not in the best shape and I really just needed someone like yourself to confirm that so I can get this shit box going cause my yard is starting to get ridiculous and it's stressing me out. So thank you again my friend you really helped me out.
Just wanted to stop in an say thank you, I referred to this video and a few others while fixing an Ariens 42" Riding Mower on my channel. Very helpful
I included a link to this video in the description.
Thank you!
This video was so helpful, got a new carb and it didn't have that damn inlet oring, I'm certain that's why it's flooding sob this was a huge help!!!
4r
I have the same problem with an intek 20 hp, and was leaning towards this, but am confident that is the problem after seeing this. Thanks
Good video! I like to put the new gasket on the metal body first,then the plastic part on next. The metal body has recesses that the gasket fits nicely into,no guessing if I have the proper seal. Good luck bro!
Really good explanations....and it ran at the end!
Thanks!
I wish I would had found this sooner best instructions on this flooding problem I was having.
The Nikki carb on my B&S 18.5 hp Intek engine flooded. Despite having replaced the fuel line filter a month or so prior, I found what looks like sand in the bowl; can that be the cause? I cleaned the carb, but did not replace the gaskets. It appears to be running fine (short test drive). Do you recommend installing new gaskets? Your videos are excellent, and I learned how the anti-backfire device works; I consider a day a success If I learn new "stuff".
Man you are good yes im working a nikki carburetor just like that one i had to go through the whole entire carburetor old gas clogs up jets i notice just like you say the bowl gasket once you remove it just replace it with a new one only im working on it for someone once they found out it's leaking they will bring it back only it's not my problem i don't usually buy parts for people i let them buy their's own parts because this something i like doing because my Daddy used too work on small engine's i charge them a small fee for the work only some people try to get by and say that they don't really need to replace the parts and then i end up charging them again because when i work on small engine's even the carburetor, i have looking just like shining coins thanks for the video
Thanks so much. Was actually trying to solve a surging problem on my B&S carb. I sprayed the float bowl gasket o ring with brake cleaner. So it swelled. Long story short I found your video with b&s parts numbers that I need.
OMG thank you... I'm 99% that inlet gasket is my problem!
Mine sure flooded my motor and could figure why it would turn over when tried starting it. The Niki filled up of course the cylinder and the whole motor. So have to flush it out 3 times tomorrow. Can’t believe Ariens didn’t put a fuel shutoff on it. So bought a new Kipa carb off Amazon if it doesn’t work great then will be buying a Walbro. Heard about the Walbro after I had ordered the new Kipa.
Good point on the valves. I always add them to run carbs dry for the winter.
Running them dry can allow rubber parts to dry out and varnish to form. I just run some fuel stabilizer through them then shut the fuel off.
@@pfun41 yep, now i, no it
when I took my nikki carb bowl off and plastic body off, A small brass jet fell out of somewhere and I think it fits into the bottom of the long plastic main jet housing and butts up against the main jet brass to brass. I didn't see one in the bottom of your plastic jet housing but you never really showed that angle. Am I correct about where this small jet goes? Many thanks !!
I am going thru the same problem and was watching this video to see a good explanation. When I opened my Nikki carb, I found that small jet with the o ring loose on the bottom of the bowl. It appears to go into a port in the top of the metal housing. I tried to place it the plastic housing below the brass pick up tube and that didn't work. I had the flooding carb situation and I am sure it was due to the worn larger o ring that goes on to the plastic float assembly. The small loose brass jet didn't help either. Now waiting for a parts kit to complete a rebuild. Hope your carb repair worked out.
Excellent video! I watched because I thought I may be missing a metal seat to the needle and you addressed that directly. I also didn't realize I've been leaking fuel into the oil. THANK YOU for the information.
Keith Brookshire The fuel in the oil crankcase can possibly detonate and crack the block or launch the piston in to the cylinder head.
If you are lucky,it will detonate and launch your dipstick like a missile in to the hood.
How did the gas get the oil?
@@carlcannedy2669 this has been so long ago I don't remember.
Thank you very much for the excellent explanation. Greetings from France!
I know you all say that your solenoid won't cause the carburetor to leak but once I tighten the solenoid on the bottom of the little cup or bowl I can spin the solenoid all the way around the bottom part. I don't think that's supposed to happen does it? The gas leak was bad.
Does that carburetor have a needle seat? If mine has one I lost it. This is my first time to rebuild a nikki carburetor. This video don't show one. Thanks
great video, very useful information. thanks for posting it.
I am rebuilding a Craftsman similar to this. I bought cheap it with a blown engine. It has a fuel shut off too. And the carb was flooding. I suspect that might be why the engine blew. Thanks for the video and troubleshooting information.
The guy didnt take care of this very well.
I have had to replace the engine crankcase, sump cover, connecting rod, cam gear, intake push rod, governor oil slinger, carburetor, air filter, magneto, ignition switch, spark plug, battery, flywheel key, flywheel fan, a bunch of gaskets, mower blades. And Im not done yet. There may yet be more to replace. I almost feel cheated for buying it.
Good video, thanks, I have my engine running only with the choke closed and flooding sometimes, now I know where to go and fix it.
so can this cause the engine to flood while its running (run rich)? have a briggs 17.5 in a yard machine that the engine was flooded. the solenoid wasn't working. I changed it, pulled the plug, cranked the engine( after replacing the starter solenoid) to clean out the cylinder, disconnected the exhaust pipe from the head( to keep down the smoke from the excess fuel in the muffler), put the plug back in, started it, let it run for a bit, changed the oil. After that, it kept smoking. Had fuel vapors in the oil and coming out of the crankcase vent tube. changed the oil again, but didn't matter. still smokes. so wondering if its flooding because of the valve seat while running.
i seen where the vacuum fuel pump can cause gas getting into the oil if the diaphram has a hole in it and the vacuum tube sucks fuel into the motor, also a good idea to put a shut off valve in line like in the video
great video...one more good reason to properly maintain lawnmower...ethanol free gas always and make sure to replace air and fuel filter over time..
Thanks my o-ring was messed up and I didn't see it before I saw this video
Great video but is there any setting of the float that is needed? I'm putting a new carb on this snapper and the new carb came with some kind of plastic hook tool I thought was to set something. What's that for?
No idea. The float level is not easily adjustable on these newer plastic float carburetors.
Your videos are simply excellent. I have the same engine on a 2008 Yard Machines (also MTD). Some folks dislike Nikki's but mine is the original with just one rebuild along the way.
Please send link on how to clean this part, I was not able to find it. Thanks
How did you remove the anti backfire cylinoid? I cant seem to get it off a briggs carburator.
grind down a 1/2 wrench so it fits on the flats.
I didn't see in the vid. How the main jet fits in the carb. Mine fell out when I took it apart for cleaning. Does the o ring seat in the brass stem or in the plastic stem that fits over the brass jet stem.
O ring side down, into the plastic carb body.
Thanks Pfun, wish I had seen your video before I tried to do on my own...had a serious fuel leak into the engine, the dipstick level was way past full mark with fuel mix ...replaced the gasket and pin on Nikki carb....drained contaminated oil and gas mix....reassembled everything and added fresh oil....won't start, took off spark plug and it was saturated with fuel... tried to crank without plug and gas gushed out of uninstalled plug hole...going to try the loosen mounting bolts to see if it still leaks...any other things I should consider?
That's usually all it ever is, Ive heard of clogged vents causing a leak but haven't had any problems like that.
I am having the same problem. Where did you get the base gasket from?
Does the main jet come out too? Mine is so dirty, I can't get it clean with it still in the body. (The tube sticking out from the main body)
Main jet is the little piece in the bottom of the plastic carb body.
Replaced the o ring and needle but still flooding. What else could it be
thanks for explaining what the solenoid is. Now if you could tell me what kind of tool takes off the wierd star bolt I would be happy. It is 6 sided so an allen wrench got it off.
torx
The actual tool is an E5 socket (reverse Torx) but a 4mm (and possibly 3/16) 6-sided socket will also work
Having the same issue with the same kind of nikki carb. Replaced the needle, seat, float, and all gaskets & I'm still having the same issue. What exactly were you referring to as a clogged vent being a cause of the flooding? Please help lol. I'm tired of tearing this thing apart.
There's always a vent from the carb bowl to the intake to prevent pressure buildup.
The only vent I'm aware of is the vent in the gas cap, and it's definitely not clogged up.
Having an issue with fuel being present in the airbox. I ordered a new needle and the orings you suggested. Is it possible and should I recalibrate the inlet valve? I’m having trouble finding any intructional videos/PDFs to do it. Thank you
There is no adjustment on these, just put in the new parts and as long as you get them together right and don't pinch anything it should stop leaking.
Ok great. Thank you for taking the time to reply
"...but that's not what we are talking about today"... that's the part i need to know! my mower only works on choke any solutions?
th-cam.com/video/WGEe6sh7UE8/w-d-xo.html
My nightmare on these carbs... I done a fair share of rebuilds in my time. Also cleaning. When I get done a carb shines. So you can bet every spot is clean. Brought a Yard Machine. Exact stuff as your mower. Carb was junk so I rebuilt. Ran fine for a week and left sat with full tank of 90 oct no eth gas. Week later start and I hear gas gush. Remove engine cover and gas gushes out top of air hole upon start. Check oil and smell gas. Redo another oil change and rework carb and add shut off. All is fine for a week. Leave sit a few days and forgot to shut off gas. I get the same ordeal. So I swap carbs for the Nikki where gas line comes at 90 deg. I had rebuilt it as well and all new parts. Carb is on and fire it up all is fine. For about about a hr with gas on mower off. Try to start and back to gas in crank case and oil. Took carb apart and nothing. Changed oil and started and engine runs bad and surges. Put it in barn and shut gas off. At my witts end. Why should a shut off even be needed on a new carb or even a few rebuilt carbs. Yet most do not have and are fine. So now I got to fig out why my engine was running smooth and now misses to hell and surges. That and constant gas in oil with a few carbs rebuilt.
I rarely do a full rebuild as it often isn't needed. Few parts tend to go bad. What brand parts are you using? The parts market is full of garbage so I only use OEM carburetor parts. Walbro LMTs need the needle AND seat replaced if they have flooding issues.
@@pfun41 I agree on original parts. That is what I use and in my case straight from Briggs. When I got the mower the carb was wreaked. Most nasty I ever seen inside. So I ordered a used " working " carb as I rebuilt first. Get other carb and it is wreaked beyond who knows with bad gas. I rebuid both. What is odd is both worked fine when I got done. For a bit that is. Tonight I was out again digging in carb. I got the engine to run fine for about 30 sec and boom carb floods. Shut off gas and fire up mower and runs just fine till that shut off is on and carb fills. I have two options I can think of at this point. 1. Buy a new carb from Briggs at what, 160 bucks or so. Not thrilled. 2. A cheap after market carb of which truthfully I never attempted because I try to stay original. So that is my question just how good are these 20 buck carbs. Oh, and the carbs I been in use of on my Yard Machine are Nikki originals. No seat in them well, just the plastic hole needle goes in on mine.
Excellent video! Where can I get just the Nikki 697216 gasket set and needle? I've looked around online and haven't seen just those items yet. Thanks!
Thank you so much...this is he first time I've seen this type of carb...mine had a spring on the bottom was pretty well he same carb.
I cleaned it today and man was I surprised to see it.
If you suspect the needle is to blame on flooding, and you are short on new parts, you can take a q-tip on a dremel, with a dab of car polish scratch remover,(brand doesnt matter). A few bumps on the needle seat will make it like new, for regular carbs, do the same thing, but use brasso
I do that on brass carburetor seats because they tarnish and corrode. I never do it on these because plastic doesn't have that issue, and it's never been a problem. I always replace the base gasket and needle when I open these carburetors. That way I know it's fixed and I won't have to open it again, which is more valuable to me than whatI may save in parts.
I put in new needle and o ring and it still floods...now what? Any ideas ? Fuel does not leak into cylinder, but yet engine chokes and stalls.
do you have the right style bowl gasket? There were 2 designs for the nikki, one has a separate inlet O ring.
I LOVED YOUR VIDEO 👍👍👍👍👍👍YOU DID PERFECT JOB IN ALL RESPECT 👍👍👍👍👍
I have a question how does the o ring cause it to flood when it still has to get past the needle and seat ? I ask that question because of a carb I was working on for a friend. He too has an o ring issue where it started flooding. I was thinking his needle and seat was working, but I could visibly see the o ring wasn't in the best of shape and it too started flooding.
There's 2 designs, one uses a separate O ring and the other has a seal built into the larger seal. The fuel comes into the carburetor through the aluminum carb body, but the needle and seat are in the plastic carb body. The fuel passage between the two are sealed by the O ring or the large seal. If it leaks the fuel will enter the bowl unmetered, so its the same as having a leaky needle.
That makes sense. Thanks for the reply@@pfun41
I swapped my Nikki carburetor with a Walbro and had no trouble since.
What kind of oil do u use
Is it possible to extract the bronze diffuser? Or is it fixed to the carb's body?
Its the emulsion tube and its not removable. There is no reason to remove it.
Is there typically a small spring, in the bottom of the float bowl on Nikki carbs?
Sometimes but not always.
Question: 11.5hp ...Nikki carb...starts up cold with no problem, and no obvious fuel leakage into the oil. Sometimes, it just stops running in the middle of my cut. ... And after its good and hot, and I let it sit for several minutes, it is all but impossible to start. Definitely flooded. I'm gonna change the needle and gaskets as you describe. Any other thoughts?
That actually sounds more like a failing coil. If it was flooding it would cough and sputter like the choke was on before it died, and the flood wouldn't just clear, the needle would be leaking too much.
+pfun41 that makes sense. I ordered a new aftermarket carb ($20). I figured I'd try it, or at least use the gaskets out of it. Installed it, but it ran too lean, and I didn't feel like jacking with the jetting size. So, I used the gaskets, needle, and float and rebuilt the old carb. Also the choke and throttle shafts, and also the little foam "washers". The geometry of the choke shaft was different, so had to re-install the old one. ... Worked well today. No restart problem after heating up. If it does happen again, I will focus on the coil. Thanks for the reply.
Greg Vanek pap
Is the solenoid supposed to move up and down freely when you look at it or stay I. The down position?
The plunger should retract when not powered. The return spring is very weak though and sticks easily.
Great video. I enjoy all your videos. Thanks. Question: The 2 different base gaskets are they interchangeable? Example: if you had the one with the separate o-ring will the all in-one gasket fit as well or must you have the specific gasket for each plastic carburetor body? Is the white plastic carburetor body interchangeable? Thank You.
I like the loose mount to find flodding
great video. saw the bowl gasket for $5-7. Then I saw the entire carb rebuild kit with everything that can be replaced for $7. Basically you get the entire carb besides the body. So I would rather just have all the parts on hand for about the same price.
Can you show me where you found this kit.
VERY helpful, but if the camera had of been setting OPPOSITE of you hands we could see much better, if you ever redo you may want to try that
i replaced the main o ring and the little needle seat o ring. when i flip my carb upside down. and blow into the fuel inlet. and she is SEALED...but mine is still flooding like a soab.. but only when i lift it past idle.. at idle. it runs fine. after idle. she starts spitting and blowing blue smoke. then when it eventually dies ton of smoke/vapor comes back through carb
Take the air intake off, jack up the front of the mower, and just leave it with the fuel on. If it's still leaking fuel will run out the throat of the carb. But it sounds like you may have gas in the oil or the oil level is too high.
Compared to buying a new carb, how much is buying all the individual parts that do not even come close to the entire carb?
To buy a Genuine carb or a cheap crappy knockoff? Cause the majority of cheap carbs I've used had issues right out of the box. In more than one instance they were worse than the original.
mine leaks around the bowl I notesed no gaqsket you have a part # for the gaskets?
The base gasket seals the bowl. Parts in description.
What’s the part number for gasket??
Ok so I am having the same issue on a 12.5hp engine. I can bench test it like you did on the motor and it's fine but when on the machine it floods I even heated the tab to adjust the float up so it's more level and still same issue what do you think it could be it's stressing me out and the customer is not about buying a new carburetor at $110.
That's very odd. So it only floods out when fully bolted up and after the engine has run?
pfun41 yes sir it is very odd I don't want to give up on it new carburetors are $125.
You could get a good used carburetor, swap the new parts in and clean it, that's what I would do.
Very very useful I love wen u fast forward looks cool
Great Video..these Nikki carbs can be trying..
I just rebuilt mine. Still floods. My rebuild kit didn’t come with a new o ring for the inlet
Does your carburetor require a separate O ring? If so you probably ended up with the wrong kit.
@@pfun41 what kit has this on ebay. Can't find it
Link to the carb cleaning please
I have this same carb. Mower wouldnt start so rebuilt carb. Now it only runs with choke on. the carb is very clean, no leaks. What to do?
A can of gasoline and a match???
@@SS-vb7pp You like leaving comments that don't help or add anything of value or information. To add fuel to the fire, you're not even funny. Just quit .
Mine has a jet that fell out and I don't know where it fell out from. I don't know exactly where to put it for sure
Check my other video on these carbs it should show where to put it.
The main jet in simole terms- It goes up in the middle tube of plastic. Oring side up in tube. Flat round side of bottom of jet should be down side.
where is the oil filter on that motor?
What is the part number for the fuel inlet oring? I can't find it anywhere. Help!
It's considered part of the bowl/body gasket and is not sold separately so it does not have a separate part number.
I cleaned mine same carb new gaskets and needle and I still cant run my mower high rev only mid throttle any higher it stalls out. I clean everything out air hose. Any idea?
did you clean the emulsion tube and main jet with a small piece of wire?
@@pfun41 yes I ran small wire thru every hole I could find watching your videos it seems indie them all.
@@FRBYND Will it run if you engage the choke a bit?
@@pfun41 no just starts sputtering then stalls runs perfect mid throttle tho
He main jet brass fitting inside the main tube fell out when I first took it off to clean maybe the seal on that maybe gone?
Just curious... when did you go back and put the bowl gasket on? Somewhere around 10:20 or so you put the bowl on the carburetor and it did not have a gasket on it. The gasket was lying in the back of the pan. Lol
By the way, I want to compliment you on informing people about the gas inlet o-ring. I rebuilt a Nikki just like this one for a friend and it still flooded and flooded. I thought about it for a while and it occurred to me that even though I had replaced the needle, if that o-ring on the other side of the fuel transfer plate did not seal the carburetor would still continue to fill with gas. Surely enough, when I replaced that o-ring the flooding problem ended immediately. Incidentally, generic o-rings did not work for me. I had to get the o-ring specifically designed for the Nikki carburetor.
Good video, sir. Thank you very much for sharing what you know.
Exinanition that's not the bowl gasket that's the intake gasket 🤦♂️
took carb of and cleaned it put it back on and now it wont full throttel only 3/4 throttel any suggestions i did adjust engine valve
Lori Fitzwater. Hi Lori..check the main jet o- ring and make sure the needle is good and the gasket is seated ..
I hate nikki carburators when they work they work good...when they don't it can be a nightmare ..one more thing
If your o-ring at the bottom of the plastic float mount is bad it will cause problems too..just a thought..
I think there is suppose to be a spring in the middle of the carburetor bowl before you screw it back together...Maybe I'm wrong but all of the ones I've seen have the spring...This one might not need the spring though...Humm I am not a pro at this by no means...Thanks for the video!!!
I know of the spring you mention. Some have it and some don't. Most that I've worked with don't, I find them more often on things like generators where they don't have an anti-afterfire solenoid.
Can you swap a regular carburator on it?
This is a regular carburetor, unless you get a walbro LMT, which has it's own set of problems.
You said high end mowers have fuel shut off valves. There's a reason why...low end mowers should go back to using them. Fuel shut off valves help prevent gas corrosion in the carburetor.
ken baker Some people say that good clean fuel without ethanol protects the carb from moisture, etc. Ive heard of people having more problems when they shut fuel off.
hmmm
Mine is identical. But floods thru muffler. Why?
Because its flooding out so bad the entire engine fills with gas and dumps out the muffler.
Do a rebuild on a Honda engined power washer, hard to start and surging
How do you get that plastic stopper of that idle adjustment screw ?
grab the bottom with a pair of wire cutters and leverage it off.
If you take the bowl off you have to replace the inlet o ring and the molded bowl gasket. The main jet o ring is available through Kawasaki Briggs will gladly sell you a main jet cause the o ring isn't available through them. In fact you can also get the fuel inlet o ring from Kawasaki too.
Ive found that it isn't necessary to replace the main jet O-ring in most instances, I just apply a little oil and reinstall it.
Do you know where to order the linkages to the carb ?
Ebay, amazon, any small engine parts supplier.
On my nikki carb, the main jet o-ring doesn't hold the jet in tight. The main jet can slip out easily.
mine too
Outstanding video.
You didn't show the level of the float to me it looked like the float was too far down
Great video thanks, where do you get your parts from?
This one may have been Partstree But I get alot of stuff from ebay.
How about a flooding carburetor on a 22hp craftsman mower
Depends on the carburetor
thank you, the exact info i needed!
His float is fcked up I bet that didn't fix it
How often do you check your comments?
Frequently. But due to the screwy way youtube handles them sometimes I don't get notified of them and they slip through the cracks.
fixing other folks error. My float needle may need replaced
What is carb kit number
Great video. Thank you
I have an 11.5 HP Briggs with a Nikki 698945 carb on a 2006 Snapper riding mower. Bought a Chinese rebuild kit off of Ebay. It did not have the fuel inlet O-ring. I complained to the seller. He is still selling the same kit. Then I tried a Chinese Nikki knockoff from Ebay for $15 delivered. Leaked right out of the box into the crankcase and combustion chamber. Took it apart, swapped in the old needle jet and reinstalled. That stopped the leak! I complained to the seller who offered to refund me $3 or send me a replacement carb. I took the $3.
You my Friend have just learned why I spend the $20 on oem parts the first time.
Yup, penny wise and time foolish. But I am in socal so nowhere to go anyway. Ps I have a bolen like the one in the video but with a walbro.
Just the little tiny rubber O-ring. Clean the rest w/ carb cleaner and reuse your bowl gasket if ya can.! Easy peasy. U don’t even need to take off the carb. Remove the bowl and make it easy on yourself
Good stuff! Well done.
There is a brass seat in the middle of carb for needle valve it has a o ring on it
That's the main jet.
good video, thank you
Thank you 🙏 so much I needed to know
THESE ISSUES is a GREAT reason to convert them to propane
Ya these are a pita. Had one leak all fuel into oil. Had to flush everything. Correct carb. Install fuel filter.
There are aftermarket carbs for 25-30$ trying to figure new vs rebuild for same cost
I've had bad luck with crappy aftermarket carburetors.
qslim3 Rebuild kits are $7 with free shipping.
Ok, Listen up y'all.. I had an issue where someone brought me a mower that was flooding. !st of all , I had to change the oil, because it was so full of fuel from flooding..I HATE these engines. they don't have a hole to where the fuel runs out of the bottom of the carb. if it happens to flood, instead it runs down into the intake, into the cylinder and then all into the oil.
So, I go tearing into the carb, and everything looked brand new. All bright white plastic, I discovered that when the guy put the thing together, they damaged the fuel inlet O-ring.
I replaced this and the other crazy looking gasket, i get it all back together and try things out, and it runs better but was still flooding like crazy. WTH !
I take it back apart and and check things out again. Couldn't see anything obvious.
So i go online to find a diagram, didn't have luck for the exact model, but i did fine something close enough. Upon further investigating i found that the main jet was missing..
I bet when the other guy replaced the base plate, he threw the old one away with the main jet inside of it. So $15.00 for a new jet, the engine is running like a champ.
If you ever have to replace the base plate, make sure you transfer the main jet to the new base plate, or you'll be kicking yourself.
Also remember if you buy an aftermarket carb or kit to use the shank (not the flutes) of a drill bit to measure your new main jet to make sure it matches your old jet, or just use the new O-ring on the old main jet if it's clean. I chop the anti-backfire valves off and use inline Briggs shutoff valves which are more reliable and don't need an electrical connection.
Mine fell out and I'm not sure about the exact orientation
Mine is gone and the one in the kit is an unknown size. So I'm trying to find someone who knows what size the orifice is on a 17.5 jet.
I added a fuel shut off so I could change the fuel filter without having fuel all over the place