Thank you Kevin! I know you posted this 6 yrs ago, but it's still good info on these Briggs! Putting this 26 horse Comm V Twin build back together, hooking the carb back up, I couldn't remember how those springs went! Again, thank you!
Without a doubt, your video was the best of several I looked at for solving my problem of where what spring where. Short and concise with decent camera work. I thank you for solving a whole afternoon's problem.
Amazing that someone actually finally showed details about the springs ! Thank you. Thank you. Thank you. Very easy to follow and you’re not rushing it. If I turn out to be half the man that can figure out this mechanical stuff, like guys like you, well then I suppose my late husband would still be very secure in his masculinity! Lol
The positioning of the largest spring onto the handheld bracket makes life so much easier when trying to put it into the fixed piece slot on the engine. Thank you for that
Kevin has done an excellent job teaching how to assemble springs, control assy. and properly adjust the governor. I learned some good tips as well. Knowing the governor spring is trying to pull the carb to W.O.T. while the governor flyweights and spool is trying to close the throttle helps in understanding how it works. If engine isn't making speed then gov. spring overpowers the flyweights pushing spool down and opening throttle. That's why you loosen the clamp, turn the gov. shaft in the same direction needed for W.O.T. and tighted the clamp with carb throttle wide open. If proper adjustment doesn't fix it then something else is wrong. You're a great teacher and it's refreshing that you reply years after making a video. Thanks.
@@kevinbolin7665 Hi, Had a bad misfire, replaced carburettor. Engine now revs very high. Took engine out replaced with a new governor, did not look damaged at all. Adjusted governor to carb as per instructions. Still revs high. Noticed the Governor arm does not seem to move througout the rev range. Any ideas? Thanks
I'm having the same issue. I replaced the carburetor on my husqvarna yth22v46. It cranked and reved up high then cut off. I noticed the goverer arm is not moving. Will adjusting the bolt and shaft you demonstrated in your video work for this issue?
Kevin, I really appreciate your video! It saved the day for me when trying to put my governor springs back in the appropriate place. I never realized this would be so difficult, especially when you don't mark the locations like you did. Your explanation was easy to understand and presented in a way for those of us that need detailed explanation. Much thanks
Kevin I would like to thank you. I was really helped by your video. I couldn't remember the location of one of the springs. And I completed it using your directions.
So hard to find a good video on this subject matter. I had one of my Governor Springs pop off last summer and I've been having throttle issues ever since because I couldn't find a video of how to put it on correctly. Thank you so much
I think after a dozen videos. I got it. Your video simplified it for me. Because after cleaning my carb and changing the fuel filter. My mother would rev up like a NASCAR. I will do this tomo. Thank you!!!
Your welcome hope it helps ....If your engine continues to race off with its self after adjusting the governor linkage / your governor could be faulty {broken} and will require you to remove the oil sump for further inspection ....Often its the fly weights on the governor that will come apart causing the governor to act erratic in operation {causing the engine to race off}
Kevin Bolin Help !! I seem to have a similar problem. The linkage will not return to the idle position unless I hold it there with my finger. To back up some...I was mowing and the engine started to race to high RPM's. I shut it down and rebuilt carb. 2007 L120 JD is the a governor issue maybe? TX Bruce
Followers and viewers I just received a notification from youtube that this video hit over 50k views and would like to take this opportunity to thank each and everyone of you whom made this possible . I truly enjoy making these videos for my youtube channel as they have helped so many people over the world .Hope I continue to have even more viewers and followers as loyal as each and every one of my current . Its truly because of the thumbs up that keeps me motivated and all the Thank yous in your replys .
Briggs and Stratton V twin Intek Hi, Had a bad misfire, replaced carburettor. Engine now revs very high. Took engine out replaced with a new governor, did not look damaged at all. Adjusted governor to carb as per instructions. Still revs high. Noticed the Governor arm does not seem to move througout the rev range. Any ideas? Thanks
So, I've adjusted the governor as per all of these videos showing the same procedure and compared all moving parts to other engines I have and the engine is trying to run full throttle no matter what I do. Your thoughts? Broken internal governor parts is what I'm thinking but damn I don't wanna go down that road.
I have a 2011 Mud Buddy 36HP sport V, Vanguard B&S motor on my boat. I lost throttle power while on the river and Im pretty sure some of the parts are in the bottom of that river. I can not find a diagram of this motor so I can identify possible missing parts for re-order as well as how to replace the throttle cable as it needs to connect to the throttle arm/governor. Do you have any videos that would help me or other references to point me in the right direction.
How do you know if the Governor Linkage is in the right position on the Governor Output shaft?...My B&S 23hp V-twin starts but runs at high idle (not out of control rpm). I look at the Idle Adjustment screw and the throttle tab is not resting on the screw at Idle, but instea, is all the way back down in High Throttle position....Is my Governor Arm out of adjustment on the Governor Output shaft? (I already know about the Clockwise spin on the Linkage and Carb, that part is right)...I am wondering if the Governor Linkage Arm needs to be spun on the Governor Output shaft some to compensate for the springs???
Kevin great video. I think my throttle lever is not set correctly. When I put it on full throttle the throttle lever only moves about a 1/4 inch not even close to the full distance it can go. I wonder if my gov needs adjustments. My thing is I am worried if I adjust the engine will run too fast. Should when I set my mower to full throttle should that lever also max out? If so could what I am seeing be an indication that the gov was adjusted at idle instead of full throttle?
Great explanation. Thank you for the schooling. Your the man. My problem is I don't know where the choke return spring hooks on the bottom. BS drawings and BOM leavs alot to desire. I have combination choke and throttle. Control plate F. And choke shaft on carb has return spring.
Really good video, very helpful! I used it to get the engine running, but now I just need some finer adjustments I broke the throttle linkage on my engine and made a replacement. I made what I thought was a good match size wise, but was not 100% sure if the length was "really" right. I falsely assumed that just by adjusting the governor arms setting , that would basically compensate for that linkage being slightly off length-wise. However, using that new linkage, I found that the (Larger) main governor spring was still fairly loose (sloppy) when the engine was off & with the engine running at full throttle, it ran noticeably slower than before. I could push down on the governor arm and get it to speed up. Questions Q 1) Do you know the correct length of the throttle linkage at the points where it engages both of the 2 appropriate holes? Q2) Should the (Larger) main governor spring be under slight tension at "off" or what?
God thanks so much XD I took apart my entire l120 Briggs engine and put everything back together correct except for the governor I thought that up on the lever on the carb was open and down was idle, boy I feel stupid now that I did that
I've done exactly what you have done with the two springs and I still can't get the governor rod to pull up to the idle screw. It wants to fast idle unless I pull the governor rod up by hand. Still tension on the rod. Initially installed a rod due to the previous owner. Run sweet if I push up on the rod. Even if I throttle down it still idles real hi. Did set the governor like you showed. Need help. Do think I have the correct springs. I don't recall changing them to others. Ted from Seattle
Ted if you did as the video showed then you sadly may need to purchase a governor / oilsump gasket/and oilsump seal as you likely have a internal issue with the existing governor .
Governor linkage eyelet/ sadly Iam not sure these are replaceable.....However in my experience these eyelets are on most single cylinder OHV engines as well and with careful removal with pliers I have made the repair in my past . Note ....it takes time ....but it can be done / having a heat gun to lightly warm them up makes it easier to remove .
Kevin, thank you for the video. I pretty much have the same setup on my D140. I am having trouble cold-starting the engine. I have to use starter fluid. It will start no problems after it's been running for a bit. I suspect a choke issue, but I'm not sure how the choke valve and linkage is supposed to properly work. Do you have any information or videos that could point me in the right direction?
I have a Briggs and Stratton 22hp On a Hisgavarna mower. Model 44n677 0005G. I took carburetor off to clean and missed there was a small spring located on one of the lever arms. I located where the bottom of the spring attaches but not locate where the top part of the spring attaches. I order a new spring because I stretched out the old one. In this video, it is the lever arm that hangs straight down.
Hello - I have a John Deere L145 with a Briggs vtwin double barrel carb. It is not consistently getting gas to the plugs. Regardless of how long I crank it, or if gas is all the way up, plugs are always dry when i check them. BTW the throttle and choke are together (not separate) Ive replaced the fuel filter, replaced the carb, replaced the fuel pump as well. The solenoid in the carb is brand new and is working (it clicks when you turn the key). If I take off the solenoid fuel spews out. If I crank the engine continually and hold up the lever on the side of the carb w/ the adjustment screw, working the linkage slowly up/down but close to hitting the adjust screw it will eventually start. Once its starts it runs ok except for backfires a little. Any ideas?
@@kevinbolin7665 Thank you for the quick reply and info. It does not have a huge amount of hrs on it. I have only adjusted the valves once since we bought it new... Since you mentioned it, Im wondering if just adjusting the valves might do the trick.
Ya make great and helpful videos fer us laymen, I was having trouble figuring out this governor linkage, mine kept binding after installing a different carb, i finally realized it was hanging on the large spring, I was also confused by the throttle not being in the idle position with the motor off, after some head scratchin' it dawned on me that the governor would hold it open till the motor was running and the governor shaft took over the throttle butterflies, of course i'm dumber that most, so there Ya go. Thanks again for the great videos !
Clear video, thank you... I just installed A new governor on a v twin and adjusted the governor just like you did. However, when I fired it up I blew the new governor apart. I thought I had it installed correctly however I have never seen the actual governor being installed... you know what part goes on the shaft first, second and what point do you install the snap ring and thimble. I just reordered another governor. It's getting me frustrated. Any suggestions?
Ok first apply the small washer to the protruding dowell pin on the block of the engine making sure if you have the new washer the bent tab gets retained on the cylinder side ....you should see some what of a molded v shape on the cylinder side ....Next apply the snap ring to the dowell in its respective place .....Now the governor .......Apply the thimble to the governor in the closed position {you should see a slight opening just in the center between each of the fly weights } Now with the assembly completed apply the assembly in the closed position to the dowell pin pushing down .....you may hear a slight click ......this is normal .....Its just the snap ring retaining the assembly . Once finished you should see the thimble raise up each time you push downward with one of the fly weights. There are small cut away portions on the fly weights that help retain the thimble ....do not try to push them in any forceful manner beyond what is intended ....The fly weights never expand beyond the point of allowing the thimble to be removed inless there is a failure or manually removing the entire assembly witch would require a person to forcefully lift up on the governor assembly .
I had to purchase a new governor as mine came apart inside the sump, it came with a paper about a different spring based on desired rpm is this requires to change or just use the one it had in it
When ordering a replacement governor, on early build code date engines, ( prior to 06081500 ) the main governor spring may need to be replaced, BS form #ms3761 rev A identifies the correct springs. Application rpm must be known and springs are identified by paint color. , for example 3400-3600 rpm = part number 793340 = orange, this new spring has less coils then original spring
On a 24hp, if both springs are on correctly, what would cause the arm to stay in the wide open position? There's nothing to provide the tension needed to pull the arm back.
Just bought a John Deere d125 with 32 hours. Seemed like it was reving up and down when idling. When mowing it was fine. Carb seemed clean and fine after removing it and cleaning it. My governor rod also has a very fine small skinny spring over it. I ended up hooking the rod in the wrong place to the round disc in front and the engine ran wide open when started. Shut it down and now have the rod with the spring over it in the rite place. Now the engine has a very hard time starting if it does and when it does run i can adjust the throttle with the throttle lever on dash but after 30 seconds or so the engine will cut out and stall. I’ve noticed that the small spring that slides over the governor rod is mangled up a bit and the rod itself was bent and twisted from me trying to put it in the wrong place. Although I straightened out the rod and retwisted it back to where it should be, I’m not sure if the spring and rod are now no good since they were damaged or not but I do have a new rod and spring on order. Do you think this is why the engine doesn’t start/very hard to get it going?
Well in short ......Any piece of machinery is only as good as the sum of its parts . But respectfully if parts have been altered then it might be in your best interest to purchase new O.E.M parts to replace the altered ones you bent . So Your def in the right mindset towards the end goal .........How ever by reading your comment {question} I feel it might be worth having and additional look once again at your carb .....I know ....I know ....You just advocated it looked fine but more often than not the jets small bands or o rings will likely be distorted and cause issues just as you mentioned ........Sadly if all is as it should be in regards to the carb then your governor its self may be the cause of the problem .......Even though you only have a very limited amount of hours on the equipment .
@@kevinbolin7665 thanks for the reply. The new parts should be in by the first of next week. I’m going to try that first then if no better then I will take carb off again and take another look. Another question regarding the governor link position. When the throttle is moved to the rabbit position the rod should pull down and when it’s in turtle the rod should push up and touch against that set screw. Is that correct? If that’s correct then my rod and spring is definatley bad then because when I move the throttle, the rod moves slightly bit but not up and down fully.
@@kevinbolin7665 hi Kevin hopefully you get this message and will respond if so thank you in advance. I too have a lawn mower that is a 54-inch zero turn Mustang 24 horsepower Briggs & Stratton and started surging with basically 12 hours of use on it so I thought I would just take it apart and clean it and so I try to clean all the holes and the Jets and put everything back correctly but I did not pay attention very well to how the linkage was attached couldn't find a picture online for any reason and the manufacturers exploded diagram had the worst image of that back area with the carbs that you couldn't make out anything everything else will came in sharp if you wanted to see it but just that was sucking go figure. So get to the point then I started it and now it runs kind of like it barely wants to run and it's kind of blowing black smoke and if I pull the Throttle Down it'll die and it kind of wants to run when it's near the choke position but barely. I am in the process of going back Intuit and digging into the the carb to see if I have some blockage or a SEAL issue and I noticed that the one leakage on the left throttle white plastic appears to be reversed on the bottom from one side of the arm to the other but I don't really see where that make a big difference to cause the problems I'm having so I guess what I want to know is you think this is my problem if I just get the carb in proper form and correct linkage placement or is it possible that the governor's bad is that really a thing on these motors this is my first time spending this kind of money on a mower usually buy something used that you can push this was almost $4,000 and I think the warranty is about to run out if it hasn't already
Great video. I have a revving problem on a 5 HP Briggs engine on a craftsman chipper. Engine runs OK at low speed, but revs way too high at high speed. Would that indicate spring problems or governor itself broken? Thanks for any help before I sink time and money into this.
Often one doesn't ...You have to contact a dealer with engine numbers such as model, type and code ....another option is to look up the engine on parts tree.com.
Kevin, I like your videos. Where can I get a diagram of the governor for a 18hp intek motor? It is a 350776-0122-01. The governor arm is horizontal not vertical. This is a old cub walk behind commercial unit. Can you help me out? thanks
new owner of 2007 LA105...think the choke spring is missing because once the choke is off, doesn't return. unless you manually move it...can't find any diagrams online
Kevin - If I am able to adjust the speed by moving the arm connected to the governor but there is still too much tension for it to idle (just revs up) is that bad springs or busted governor?
@@kevinbolin7665 Thanks! I have already invested a lot of time and about 200 bucks so far trying to get this mower good to go. It sat for 5 plus years in a barn so I might as well try to replace the governor I guess. Now I am going to have to find a video on how to do that.
Thanks for the video - have the same setup but. But I am sad to say that prior to watching this video I over tightened my governor nut and it snapped off. I was just trying to take it up a notch but over did it. So now it is stuck at a unsafe high rpm and I cannot adjust the governor speed. Will I have to take the engine apart to replace that piece? Thanks for any help on this.
I feel for you friend def {been in your shoes before} and its easily done ...You really have your work cut out for you. Removing the engine , Any pullys, as well as the oil sump....But I am confident you can tackle it ...best of luck and thanks for watching my videos.
Hey Kevin, I've got a similar arrangement as shown on your video and have double and triple checked the spring connections to be the same as you show. The problem is with the throttle cable connected, the throttle is half open. The half moon plate the cable connects to cannot close the throttle with or without the cable connected. When the vertical side of the half moon governor plate is verticle, the throttle is half open. The big governor spring pulls the throttle open. With the governor disconnected I can close the throttle with my finger and run the engine just fine... idle and high speed. The throttle wants to open from the weight of the throttle linkage and governor lever. There's no spring to close (idle) the throttle. Any suggestions would be helpful.
Steve / I would love to help but I feel it would be best if you could provide a video of the problem in question . I think I have a basic understanding of your question but providing a brief video would be very helpful .
Steve Dever I have the same issue. The butterfly on the carb is not returning to idle. There doesn’t seem to be a throttle return spring on my engine. Does this setup use the idler spring on the govnor to return the throttle linkage to the closed position? Or did I break the carburetor butterfly?
Ever resolve the problem Steve? I am having the same problem. I set my governor at full throttle, but after we connect the throttle cable and clamp it so full throttle is when the half moon is flat, at slow lever position the throttle is half open. I am positive my governor is set with the linkage down (full throttle) and the governor arm fully clockwise. All linkage are proper (choke and throttle), but we can't get the throttle linkage to hit the idle set screw unless we manually lift the linkage. Any thoughts?
No its not a common ......although it can happen do to many reasons ...typically governor tension spring pressure and the governors fly weights driving the plunger cap that in turn drives the control rod can apply enough force to turn the control arm with the bolt inserted to loosen its grip so to speak . As a result the governor will not preform as intended making a engine hunt for idle or surge up and down trying to find its speed .
I just did a Carburetor R&R on my J Deere LA125 with 21HP B&S Motor. I can NOT find a video showing how to adjust the governor or the carburetor... If anybody knows of such a video, please comment with the URL to video. Thanks in advance...
Kevin, is there a good manual that shows what the difference in springs are for different governor setups?? Also, I watched your carburetor video of the Nikki. How can you tell what the carb bore sizes are without having to measuring them? Great videos!! You just got a new subscriber 😁
I have a Craftsman riding mower # 917-2722450. When I start it, the throttle is wide open. I have removed the springs and replaced them according to your direction. It still has the same problem. Is it the governor or can you suggest a remedy?
I wish you would a video on same subject with a 23 horse Kawasaki on a 2010 Z445. Gov. spring is behind the throttle assembly plate and I can’t get my big fat fingers in there😀😀
Ok at 3:09 do you see that white plastic piece in the gov arm ??? I need one of those where can I get some ???? Ok 1 more ?? why is there a reason to get the hook in the hard way...... My Briggs manual shows the same way, but I am curious.... I have a 445677 and the gov setting is different than yours in this vid... Gov arm is all the way Counter clockwise and the GOV SHAFT clockwise.... My throttle cable is coming from the drivers side of the engine.. Yep it's backwards....... Thanks in advance for a reply ~!~!
Its called a tibial used to help aid in keeping the linkage from wearing threw ..other engines have something highly similar .....although most just run the linkages metal to metal and this will eventually just wear the z shaped bends down causing excessive movement in the mating surfaces . You can not purchase them as a separate part...What I have found is by simply purchasing a piece of copper tubing from MC mastercarr to the size of the hole one can easily make a tibial by softly folding over the cut pipe at each end that protrudes threw the eyelet in the governor control arm then simply drilling a hole to match the hole desired to allow the linkage to be applied . If you will leave me your model ,type and code on the engine I will see what I can find out .
445677 from what I can tell on Partstree and my service manuals show a typical control shaft that protrudes from the oil sump . What I recommend is to place your carb with linkages attached to W. O. T in doing so watch the direction the control arm follows when connected {UP or DOWN }... general direction is up . Then simply hold the carb in W.O.T { wide open} and adjust the shaft that protrudes threw the oil sump in the same direction to wide open . The control arm must be loosened then retightened to achieve the desired results . If the shaft has no resistance then you likely have a internal problem with the governor ........or fly weights rather that allow the governor to preform as intended . I do know that briggs made several different variations of the control brackets . The more modern ones have the choke working with the aid of the throtal .....Still the governor shaft works exactly the same on the old as well as new . Parts tree .com is a great place to see how these engines are assembled by diagrams or a exploded view of the parts .
@ 4;58 you said to go down with the arm.... My service tells me for a 445677 the arm has to go up counterclockwise. You typed that it goes up also.... General direction..... I do know that it depends on the throttle plate. 4 different types.. BTW the one I am working on has the choke made with the throttle... The gov was out of adjustment bad......
Yeah ...In honesty I kind of thought so as well ....But as we both know Govs can come apart making a person have fits trying to adjust them . Glad it worked out for you ...Thanks for being a respectful viewer.
Hi Kevin, thanks for these very useful videos (also the Nikki V twin carb) - I sent you a detailed msg with my issue on a Intek V Twin 445577 1125 B1 . First engine would not start - I checked spark plugs, fuel canal, air filter and finally took out the carb assembly and simply mouth blew into it - rinse with fuel and put it back. However the 2 o rings on admission pipes came off and in a larger diameter - I put them back with a slit (no spares) . I also adjusted the governor as explained: throttle open and adjustment screw all the way clockwise. Now engine starts but engine runs in full RPMs - and throttle doesn't seem to close - only contact stops it - any hints will be greatly appreciated - many thanks Serge
Oh no ..... I dont think so .....Your governor was likely already exploded or damaged .....The advice shown in this video is standard practice by Briggs and Stratton upon how to set there governor.....I am no amateur .....I am a Master Service Tech .....been working on Briggs engines of all hp and design for over 32 years.....So what your trying to advocate to my viewers is asinine as you would clearly find out if you purchase the book provided by Briggs and Stratton {Part number 273521} Intec V twin OHV repair manual . I am truly sorry for your misfortune, but you need to gather facts before insinuating such allegations.
Thank you Kevin! I know you posted this 6 yrs ago, but it's still good info on these Briggs! Putting this 26 horse Comm V Twin build back together, hooking the carb back up, I couldn't remember how those springs went! Again, thank you!
Very well explained. Both springs came off my 26 hp b&s intek. I now know the proper location of both. Wish me luck.
December 2024 and this is still far more information than anything else. Great job 👍
Without a doubt, your video was the best of several I looked at for solving my problem of where what spring where. Short and concise with decent camera work. I thank you for solving a whole afternoon's problem.
Amazing that someone actually finally showed details about the springs !
Thank you. Thank you. Thank you. Very easy to follow and you’re not rushing it. If I turn out to be half the man that can figure out this mechanical stuff, like guys like you, well then I suppose my late husband would still be very secure in his masculinity! Lol
The positioning of the largest spring onto the handheld bracket makes life so much easier when trying to put it into the fixed piece slot on the engine.
Thank you for that
I really appreciate this thorough instruction on how to deal with this. My mower is now running great! You’re a great teacher.
Thank you glad you found my video helpful/ If I can be of any additional help don't hesitate to leave a comment.
@@kevinbolin7665 0
out of all the videos, this one helped me the most with my v twin engine
Kevin has done an excellent job teaching how to assemble springs, control assy. and properly adjust the governor. I learned some good tips as well. Knowing the governor spring is trying to pull the carb to W.O.T. while the governor flyweights and spool is trying to close the throttle helps in understanding how it works. If engine isn't making speed then gov. spring overpowers the flyweights pushing spool down and opening throttle. That's why you loosen the clamp, turn the gov. shaft in the same direction needed for W.O.T. and tighted the clamp with carb throttle wide open. If proper adjustment doesn't fix it then something else is wrong. You're a great teacher and it's refreshing that you reply years after making a video. Thanks.
Very welcome ….always glad to help any follower or viewer .
@@kevinbolin7665 Hi, Had a bad misfire, replaced carburettor. Engine now revs very high. Took engine out replaced with a new governor, did not look damaged at all. Adjusted governor to carb as per instructions.
Still revs high. Noticed the Governor arm does not seem to move througout the rev range. Any ideas? Thanks
I'm having the same issue. I replaced the carburetor on my husqvarna yth22v46. It cranked and reved up high then cut off. I noticed the goverer arm is not moving. Will adjusting the bolt and shaft you demonstrated in your video work for this issue?
Thanks Kevin. Your video help me solve a really big problem that I was having with my Briggs. Appreciate this video.
Very helpful, Thank You and God Bless. Things been haunting me for two years
Your welcome.....glad the video helped....viewers like you are what makes my efforts worth while...glad the video helped.
Kevin, I really appreciate your video! It saved the day for me when trying to put my governor springs back in the appropriate place. I never realized this would be so difficult, especially when you don't mark the locations like you did. Your explanation was easy to understand and presented in a way for those of us that need detailed explanation. Much thanks
Very welcome....Glad to have viewers like you.
FINALLY, in detail for spring reinstallation !! Thank you.
Kevin I would like to thank you. I was really helped by your video. I couldn't remember the location of one of the springs. And I completed it using your directions.
thank you blessings ---have watched tons of video ---urs rates 10 points straight ---appreciate Hare Krishna
So hard to find a good video on this subject matter. I had one of my Governor Springs pop off last summer and I've been having throttle issues ever since because I couldn't find a video of how to put it on correctly. Thank you so much
I think after a dozen videos. I got it. Your video simplified it for me. Because after cleaning my carb and changing the fuel filter. My mother would rev up like a NASCAR. I will do this tomo. Thank you!!!
Your welcome hope it helps ....If your engine continues to race off with its self after adjusting the governor linkage / your governor could be faulty {broken} and will require you to remove the oil sump for further inspection ....Often its the fly weights on the governor that will come apart causing the governor to act erratic in operation {causing the engine to race off}
Kevin Bolin Help !! I seem to have a similar problem. The linkage will not return to the idle position unless I hold it there with my finger. To back up some...I was mowing and the engine started to race to high RPM's. I shut it down and rebuilt carb. 2007 L120 JD is the a governor issue maybe? TX Bruce
Followers and viewers I just received a notification from youtube that this video hit over 50k views and would like to take this opportunity to thank each and everyone of you whom made this possible . I truly enjoy making these videos for my youtube channel as they have helped so many people over the world .Hope I continue to have even more viewers and followers as loyal as each and every one of my current . Its truly because of the thumbs up that keeps me motivated and all the Thank yous in your replys .
This helped me a great deal. Thanks Kevin. 😊
Well done ! Thnx from Maine !
kEVIN: I have a briggs 2016 GBSXS.7242ve ENGINE, CAN REMEMBER WHERE THE SPRINGS ON THE CARBURETOR GO, CAN YOU HELP?
Thank you. Great idea marking them before.
Great photo fix my throttle thank you
Just wanna see how the cables hook up..can't stand trying to find stuff online lately..everything is a 15 min video anything for ads I guess
Briggs and Stratton V twin Intek
Hi, Had a bad misfire, replaced carburettor. Engine now revs very high. Took engine out replaced with a new governor, did not look damaged at all. Adjusted governor to carb as per instructions.
Still revs high. Noticed the Governor arm does not seem to move througout the rev range. Any ideas? Thanks
So, I've adjusted the governor as per all of these videos showing the same procedure and compared all moving parts to other engines I have and the engine is trying to run full throttle no matter what I do. Your thoughts?
Broken internal governor parts is what I'm thinking but damn I don't wanna go down that road.
Great video! Straight forward and right on the money! Thank you .
I have a 2011 Mud Buddy 36HP sport V, Vanguard B&S motor on my boat. I lost throttle power while on the river and Im pretty sure some of the parts are in the bottom of that river. I can not find a diagram of this motor so I can identify possible missing parts for re-order as well as how to replace the throttle cable as it needs to connect to the throttle arm/governor. Do you have any videos that would help me or other references to point me in the right direction.
Dude you just made my life so much better with this video! Thank you so much!!!!
Your very welcome....glad to have helped...
How do you know if the Governor Linkage is in the right position on the Governor Output shaft?...My B&S 23hp V-twin starts but runs at high idle (not out of control rpm). I look at the Idle Adjustment screw and the throttle tab is not resting on the screw at Idle, but instea, is all the way back down in High Throttle position....Is my Governor Arm out of adjustment on the Governor Output shaft? (I already know about the Clockwise spin on the Linkage and Carb, that part is right)...I am wondering if the Governor Linkage Arm needs to be spun on the Governor Output shaft some to compensate for the springs???
Kevin great video. I think my throttle lever is not set correctly. When I put it on full throttle the throttle lever only moves about a 1/4 inch not even close to the full distance it can go. I wonder if my gov needs adjustments. My thing is I am worried if I adjust the engine will run too fast. Should when I set my mower to full throttle should that lever also max out? If so could what I am seeing be an indication that the gov was adjusted at idle instead of full throttle?
Great explanation. Thank you for the schooling. Your the man. My problem is I don't know where the choke return spring hooks on the bottom. BS drawings and BOM leavs alot to desire. I have combination choke and throttle. Control plate F. And choke shaft on carb has return spring.
Awesome explanation you done good.
Thanks, just what I needed.
I did all of this but the engine still runs away! Would i consider the governor broken internally?
I'm having an issue of it running wide open but the governor shaft won't rotate
Really good video, very helpful! I used it to get the engine running, but now I just need some finer adjustments
I broke the throttle linkage on my engine and made a replacement. I made what I thought was a good match size wise, but was not 100% sure if the length was "really" right. I falsely assumed that just by adjusting the governor arms setting , that would basically compensate for that linkage being slightly off length-wise. However, using that new linkage, I found that the (Larger) main governor spring was still fairly loose (sloppy) when the engine was off & with the engine running at full throttle, it ran noticeably slower than before. I could push down on the governor arm and get it to speed up.
Questions
Q 1) Do you know the correct length of the throttle linkage at the points where it engages both of the 2 appropriate holes?
Q2) Should the (Larger) main governor spring be under slight tension at "off" or what?
Very informative, thank you!
My v twin just bottoms out after governor adjustment, what could went wrong?
Where that little spring goes hooked up? You only showed one side! Thanks!
God thanks so much XD I took apart my entire l120 Briggs engine and put everything back together correct except for the governor I thought that up on the lever on the carb was open and down was idle, boy I feel stupid now that I did that
Nice camera work. It's a very tight space.
I've done exactly what you have done with the two springs and I still can't get the governor rod to pull up to the idle screw. It wants to fast idle unless I pull the governor rod up by hand. Still tension on the rod. Initially installed a rod due to the previous owner. Run sweet if I push up on the rod. Even if I throttle down it still idles real hi. Did set the governor like you showed. Need help. Do think I have the correct springs. I don't recall changing them to others. Ted from Seattle
Ted if you did as the video showed then you sadly may need to purchase a governor / oilsump gasket/and oilsump seal as you likely have a internal issue with the existing governor .
What is that white plastic piece that holds that vertical rod that your finger was on at 5:54
Governor linkage eyelet/ sadly Iam not sure these are replaceable.....However in my experience these eyelets are on most single cylinder OHV engines as well and with careful removal with pliers I have made the repair in my past . Note ....it takes time ....but it can be done / having a heat gun to lightly warm them up makes it easier to remove .
Kevin, thank you for the video. I pretty much have the same setup on my D140. I am having trouble cold-starting the engine. I have to use starter fluid. It will start no problems after it's been running for a bit. I suspect a choke issue, but I'm not sure how the choke valve and linkage is supposed to properly work. Do you have any information or videos that could point me in the right direction?
Thanks for the upload helped a lot exact same governor I have on my VTWIN thanks again for the help
Your very welcome...Glad to have helped..
Why my v- twin vanguard was overflow oil in egine breather hose
How does it choke when there is only one cable?
So you can just push your throttle to wide open position then adjust?
Yes / but making sure the governor shaft is being adjusted in the same direction that allows the carb to find its wide open position is very important
I have a Briggs and Stratton 22hp On a Hisgavarna mower. Model 44n677 0005G. I took carburetor off to clean and missed there was a small spring located on one of the lever arms. I located where the bottom of the spring attaches but not locate where the top part of the spring attaches. I order a new spring because I stretched out the old one. In this video, it is the lever arm that hangs straight down.
Hello - I have a John Deere L145 with a Briggs vtwin double barrel carb. It is not consistently getting gas to the plugs. Regardless of how long I crank it, or if gas is all the way up, plugs are always dry when i check them. BTW the throttle and choke are together (not separate)
Ive replaced the fuel filter, replaced the carb, replaced the fuel pump as well. The solenoid in the carb is brand new and is working (it clicks when you turn the key). If I take off the solenoid fuel spews out. If I crank the engine continually and hold up the lever on the side of the carb w/ the adjustment screw, working the linkage slowly up/down but close to hitting the adjust screw it will eventually start. Once its starts it runs ok except for backfires a little. Any ideas?
Preform a leak down test .....you likely need to grind your valves and seats to achieve proper vac pressure .
@@kevinbolin7665 Thank you for the quick reply and info. It does not have a huge amount of hrs on it. I have only adjusted the valves once since we bought it new... Since you mentioned it, Im wondering if just adjusting the valves might do the trick.
Ya make great and helpful videos fer us laymen, I was having trouble figuring out this governor linkage, mine kept binding after installing a different carb, i finally realized it was hanging on the large spring, I was also confused by the throttle not being in the idle position with the motor off, after some head scratchin' it dawned on me that the governor would hold it open till the motor was running and the governor shaft took over the throttle butterflies, of course i'm dumber that most, so there Ya go. Thanks again for the great videos !
Your very welcome ...glad to have helped..
Thanks. Need one for adjusting high speed for rpm increase please. I’ll be watching. SUBSCRIBED
Clear video, thank you... I just installed A new governor on a v twin and adjusted the governor just like you did. However, when I fired it up I blew the new governor apart. I thought I had it installed correctly however I have never seen the actual governor being installed... you know what part goes on the shaft first, second and what point do you install the snap ring and thimble.
I just reordered another governor. It's getting me frustrated. Any suggestions?
Ok first apply the small washer to the protruding dowell pin on the block of the engine making sure if you have the new washer the bent tab gets retained on the cylinder side ....you should see some what of a molded v shape on the cylinder side ....Next apply the snap ring to the dowell in its respective place .....Now the governor .......Apply the thimble to the governor in the closed position {you should see a slight opening just in the center between each of the fly weights } Now with the assembly completed apply the assembly in the closed position to the dowell pin pushing down .....you may hear a slight click ......this is normal .....Its just the snap ring retaining the assembly . Once finished you should see the thimble raise up each time you push downward with one of the fly weights. There are small cut away portions on the fly weights that help retain the thimble ....do not try to push them in any forceful manner beyond what is intended ....The fly weights never expand beyond the point of allowing the thimble to be removed inless there is a failure or manually removing the entire assembly witch would require a person to forcefully lift up on the governor assembly .
I had to purchase a new governor as mine came apart inside the sump, it came with a paper about a different spring based on desired rpm is this requires to change or just use the one it had in it
When ordering a replacement governor, on early build code date engines, ( prior to 06081500 ) the main governor spring may need to be replaced, BS form #ms3761 rev A identifies the correct springs. Application rpm must be known and springs are identified by paint color. , for example 3400-3600 rpm = part number 793340 = orange, this new spring has less coils then original spring
Thank you for this video you saved me!
On a 24hp, if both springs are on correctly, what would cause the arm to stay in the wide open position? There's nothing to provide the tension needed to pull the arm back.
You have a broken governor assembly ......It is internal to the engine and will require the removal of the oil sump .
Just bought a John Deere d125 with 32 hours. Seemed like it was reving up and down when idling. When mowing it was fine. Carb seemed clean and fine after removing it and cleaning it. My governor rod also has a very fine small skinny spring over it. I ended up hooking the rod in the wrong place to the round disc in front and the engine ran wide open when started. Shut it down and now have the rod with the spring over it in the rite place. Now the engine has a very hard time starting if it does and when it does run i can adjust the throttle with the throttle lever on dash but after 30 seconds or so the engine will cut out and stall. I’ve noticed that the small spring that slides over the governor rod is mangled up a bit and the rod itself was bent and twisted from me trying to put it in the wrong place. Although I straightened out the rod and retwisted it back to where it should be, I’m not sure if the spring and rod are now no good since they were damaged or not but I do have a new rod and spring on order. Do you think this is why the engine doesn’t start/very hard to get it going?
Well in short ......Any piece of machinery is only as good as the sum of its parts . But respectfully if parts have been altered then it might be in your best interest to purchase new O.E.M parts to replace the altered ones you bent . So Your def in the right mindset towards the end goal .........How ever by reading your comment {question} I feel it might be worth having and additional look once again at your carb .....I know ....I know ....You just advocated it looked fine but more often than not the jets small bands or o rings will likely be distorted and cause issues just as you mentioned ........Sadly if all is as it should be in regards to the carb then your governor its self may be the cause of the problem .......Even though you only have a very limited amount of hours on the equipment .
@@kevinbolin7665 thanks for the reply. The new parts should be in by the first of next week. I’m going to try that first then if no better then I will take carb off again and take another look. Another question regarding the governor link position. When the throttle is moved to the rabbit position the rod should pull down and when it’s in turtle the rod should push up and touch against that set screw. Is that correct? If that’s correct then my rod and spring is definatley bad then because when I move the throttle, the rod moves slightly bit but not up and down fully.
@@kevinbolin7665 update, it was the carb. Low idle jet must of been restricted. All good now
@@kevinbolin7665 hi Kevin hopefully you get this message and will respond if so thank you in advance. I too have a lawn mower that is a 54-inch zero turn Mustang 24 horsepower Briggs & Stratton and started surging with basically 12 hours of use on it so I thought I would just take it apart and clean it and so I try to clean all the holes and the Jets and put everything back correctly but I did not pay attention very well to how the linkage was attached couldn't find a picture online for any reason and the manufacturers exploded diagram had the worst image of that back area with the carbs that you couldn't make out anything everything else will came in sharp if you wanted to see it but just that was sucking go figure. So get to the point then I started it and now it runs kind of like it barely wants to run and it's kind of blowing black smoke and if I pull the Throttle Down it'll die and it kind of wants to run when it's near the choke position but barely. I am in the process of going back Intuit and digging into the the carb to see if I have some blockage or a SEAL issue and I noticed that the one leakage on the left throttle white plastic appears to be reversed on the bottom from one side of the arm to the other but I don't really see where that make a big difference to cause the problems I'm having so I guess what I want to know is you think this is my problem if I just get the carb in proper form and correct linkage placement or is it possible that the governor's bad is that really a thing on these motors this is my first time spending this kind of money on a mower usually buy something used that you can push this was almost $4,000 and I think the warranty is about to run out if it hasn't already
I'm trying to replace the spring that you're not showing... It goes on that vertical rod..259291 or John deer uc19921
Great video. I have a revving problem on a 5 HP Briggs engine on a craftsman chipper. Engine runs OK at low speed, but revs way too high at high speed. Would that indicate spring problems or governor itself broken? Thanks for any help before I sink time and money into this.
I would check for both .....But its likely a gov problem on a 5 hp that was used on a chipper .
how do you know what is the correct spring for your model engine? i have a
Husqvarna YTH2348 - 289571
Often one doesn't ...You have to contact a dealer with engine numbers such as model, type and code ....another option is to look up the engine on parts tree.com.
Excellent video
{Thank you}..... and thanks for being a respectful viewer.
Nie mogłem znaleźć nigdzie jak ustawić dźwignię regulatora a tu pięknie pokazujesz jak to zrobić
Kevin, I like your videos. Where can I get a diagram of the governor for a 18hp intek motor? It is a 350776-0122-01. The governor arm is horizontal not vertical. This is a old cub walk behind commercial unit. Can you help me out? thanks
Parts tree .com
new owner of 2007 LA105...think the choke spring is missing because once the choke is off, doesn't return. unless you manually move it...can't find any diagrams online
Good video !!
My tractor is run idle high and the govenor arm dont move up and down how to fix it
You may need a new governor ...
Kevin - If I am able to adjust the speed by moving the arm connected to the governor but there is still too much tension for it to idle (just revs up) is that bad springs or busted governor?
Faulty governor..
@@kevinbolin7665 Thanks! I have already invested a lot of time and about 200 bucks so far trying to get this mower good to go. It sat for 5 plus years in a barn so I might as well try to replace the governor I guess. Now I am going to have to find a video on how to do that.
Thanks for the video - have the same setup but. But I am sad to say that prior to watching this video I over tightened my governor nut and it snapped off. I was just trying to take it up a notch but over did it. So now it is stuck at a unsafe high rpm and I cannot adjust the governor speed. Will I have to take the engine apart to replace that piece? Thanks for any help on this.
I feel for you friend def {been in your shoes before} and its easily done ...You really have your work cut out for you. Removing the engine , Any pullys, as well as the oil sump....But I am confident you can tackle it ...best of luck and thanks for watching my videos.
@@kevinbolin7665 lp
Me gustó mucho
Hey Kevin, I've got a similar arrangement as shown on your video and have double and triple checked the spring connections to be the same as you show. The problem is with the throttle cable connected, the throttle is half open. The half moon plate the cable connects to cannot close the throttle with or without the cable connected. When the vertical side of the half moon governor plate is verticle, the throttle is half open. The big governor spring pulls the throttle open. With the governor disconnected I can close the throttle with my finger and run the engine just fine... idle and high speed. The throttle wants to open from the weight of the throttle linkage and governor lever. There's no spring to close (idle) the throttle. Any suggestions would be helpful.
Steve / I would love to help but I feel it would be best if you could provide a video of the problem in question . I think I have a basic understanding of your question but providing a brief video would be very helpful .
Steve Dever I have the same issue. The butterfly on the carb is not returning to idle. There doesn’t seem to be a throttle return spring on my engine. Does this setup use the idler spring on the govnor to return the throttle linkage to the closed position? Or did I break the carburetor butterfly?
Ever resolve the problem Steve? I am having the same problem. I set my governor at full throttle, but after we connect the throttle cable and clamp it so full throttle is when the half moon is flat, at slow lever position the throttle is half open. I am positive my governor is set with the linkage down (full throttle) and the governor arm fully clockwise. All linkage are proper (choke and throttle), but we can't get the throttle linkage to hit the idle set screw unless we manually lift the linkage. Any thoughts?
does the governor come out of adjustment often and what makes it come out of adjustment? great stuff ,big LIKE from me!!!
No its not a common ......although it can happen do to many reasons ...typically governor tension spring pressure and the governors fly weights driving the plunger cap that in turn drives the control rod can apply enough force to turn the control arm with the bolt inserted to loosen its grip so to speak . As a result the governor will not preform as intended making a engine hunt for idle or surge up and down trying to find its speed .
I just did a Carburetor R&R on my J Deere LA125 with 21HP B&S Motor. I can NOT find a video showing how to adjust the governor or the carburetor... If anybody knows of such a video, please comment with the URL to video. Thanks in advance...
i have a similar mower. but my engine rev way to high. what could that be?
Governor is faulty …..likely broken …..you will need to remove the oil sump and inspect the governor for damage.
I`ve changed all the springs adjusted the governor and still can`t get mine to the idle right. Any ideas?
Buy a repair kit for the carb ..These carbs often have the neoprene rubber sealing o rings deteriorate because of additives in modern gasolines .
@@kevinbolin7665 Thanks a lot such a big help!!!!
Have a question on the idle lever. Any way I can contact you through email or Facebook maybe? Would like to send a video on how my mower is
Kevin, is there a good manual that shows what the difference in springs are for different governor setups?? Also, I watched your carburetor video of the Nikki. How can you tell what the carb bore sizes are without having to measuring them? Great videos!! You just got a new subscriber 😁
Parts tree .com offers great diagrams that often can be very helpful .
I can't start my. Blades to cut because something broke from the lever
I have a Craftsman riding mower # 917-2722450. When I start it, the throttle is wide open. I have removed the springs and replaced them according to your direction. It still has the same problem. Is it the governor or can you suggest a remedy?
My Governor arm seems like it has no resistance it just runs open I don't know what to do
Pull the engine from the lawn tractor / then remove oil sump /last replace the governor and reassemble with oil sump gasket .
Thank you so much! This helped a lot!
Your very welcome /glad to have helped ....And thank you for being a respectful viewer.
I wish you would a video on same subject with a 23 horse Kawasaki on a 2010 Z445. Gov. spring is behind the throttle assembly plate and I can’t get my big fat fingers in there😀😀
Ok at 3:09 do you see that white plastic piece in the gov arm ??? I need one of those where can I get some ????
Ok 1 more ?? why is there a reason to get the hook in the hard way...... My Briggs manual shows the same way, but I am curious....
I have a 445677 and the gov setting is different than yours in this vid... Gov arm is all the way Counter clockwise and the GOV SHAFT clockwise.... My throttle cable is coming from the drivers side of the engine.. Yep it's backwards.......
Thanks in advance for a reply ~!~!
Its called a tibial used to help aid in keeping the linkage from wearing threw ..other engines have something highly similar .....although most just run the linkages metal to metal and this will eventually just wear the z shaped bends down causing excessive movement in the mating surfaces . You can not purchase them as a separate part...What I have found is by simply purchasing a piece of copper tubing from MC mastercarr to the size of the hole one can easily make a tibial by softly folding over the cut pipe at each end that protrudes threw the eyelet in the governor control arm then simply drilling a hole to match the hole desired to allow the linkage to be applied . If you will leave me your model ,type and code on the engine I will see what I can find out .
445677 from what I can tell on Partstree and my service manuals show a typical control shaft that protrudes from the oil sump . What I recommend is to place your carb with linkages attached to W. O. T in doing so watch the direction the control arm follows when connected {UP or DOWN }... general direction is up . Then simply hold the carb in W.O.T { wide open} and adjust the shaft that protrudes threw the oil sump in the same direction to wide open . The control arm must be loosened then retightened to achieve the desired results . If the shaft has no resistance then you likely have a internal problem with the governor ........or fly weights rather that allow the governor to preform as intended . I do know that briggs made several different variations of the control brackets . The more modern ones have the choke working with the aid of the throtal .....Still the governor shaft works exactly the same on the old as well as new . Parts tree .com is a great place to see how these engines are assembled by diagrams or a exploded view of the parts .
@ 4;58 you said to go down with the arm.... My service tells me for a 445677 the arm has to go up counterclockwise. You typed that it goes up also.... General direction..... I do know that it depends on the throttle plate. 4 different types.. BTW the one I am working on has the choke made with the throttle... The gov was out of adjustment bad......
Model is a 445677 0954 G5 94 or 04 year make I forgot to write it down in my service book for customers...
Yeah ...In honesty I kind of thought so as well ....But as we both know Govs can come apart making a person have fits trying to adjust them . Glad it worked out for you ...Thanks for being a respectful viewer.
Hi Kevin, thanks for these very useful videos (also the Nikki V twin carb) - I sent you a detailed msg with my issue on a Intek V Twin 445577 1125 B1 . First engine would not start - I checked spark plugs, fuel canal, air filter and finally took out the carb assembly and simply mouth blew into it - rinse with fuel and put it back. However the 2 o rings on admission pipes came off and in a larger diameter - I put them back with a slit (no spares) . I also adjusted the governor as explained: throttle open and adjustment screw all the way clockwise. Now engine starts but engine runs in full RPMs - and throttle doesn't seem to close - only contact stops it - any hints will be greatly appreciated - many thanks Serge
Hmmm. That doesn't sound right Kevin... wouldn't the snap ring go on After the governor gear?, then the thimble?
NO....You should be able to retain the entire governor with one quick push in a downward motion {assembly} then you should feel a slight click ..
i see yours has the manual choke,
Thanks.
very helpful but your hands are blocking the camera, maybe long needle nose would give a better view? just a thought. thanks for the video, sir
That spring is so damn hard to put on
I followed this video and my governor exploded.
Oh no ..... I dont think so .....Your governor was likely already exploded or damaged .....The advice shown in this video is standard practice by Briggs and Stratton upon how to set there governor.....I am no amateur .....I am a Master Service Tech .....been working on Briggs engines of all hp and design for over 32 years.....So what your trying to advocate to my viewers is asinine as you would clearly find out if you purchase the book provided by Briggs and Stratton {Part number 273521} Intec V twin OHV repair manual . I am truly sorry for your misfortune, but you need to gather facts before insinuating such allegations.
@@kevinbolin7665 Why you hatin
Is a silanoid not a silaloid
It's actually a solenoid lol