Yesterday I decided that my Model 10525 had sat in the shed long enough. Last time I tried to use it I had to leave in on partial choke because it was surging. At the time I didn’t know that this was a common problem. Then I got a riding mower and the Lawn Boy sat. For 16 years. So last night I watched this video and today I cleaned the carb and spark plug. The silly thing started on the second pull! THANK YOU!
Excellent video! One thing I’ve done to two of my Lawn-Boys is cut a piece of foam off an old air filter and put it in the primer bulb. That helps block dirt and dust from another path to the carb. I have a 1973, 1975, and 1987 Lawn-Boy and they all fire up on the first or second pull, and I still use them to mow weekly.
This video cleared up my surging problem! Holding the filter box to the carb allowed me to see how it all worked together. Great teacher and at just the right pace.
I picked up a free lawnboy with the carb disassembled, this was a huge help, thank you much for the well made through video, it was a huge time saver and I learned a lot as well! Nice work Man
The best video on this carburator. Well done!! I am hesitant in using in other oil mix other than 32:1. I rather now my engine is getting proper lubrication. Love the video, clear and to the point 👉.
I know this is old, but it has some really good info on these old beasts, thanks a bunch brother, just what I needed, very informative and well produced!
Great tip on the primer bulb installation i expect a lot of people have had issues installing these primer bulbs without using your ingenious tool selection.
I love the way he explains things. Definitely explained everything I need to repair my Lawnboy. Mine leaks fuel through the carb when not in use. Even leaks some fuel into the crankcase.
@@EliminatorPerformance Where did you purchase you tiny drill set? If from a tool dealer MAC, Snap-On, that is okay as I have contacts in the automotive trade to order that.
Great video! I've ran the piss out of mine for 17 years. I've cleaned the air filter like every 3 years and only changed plugs twice and a coil once or twice. It still starts every time. Did make sure to break it in slowly when new. Just bought a "parts" mower with a super nice deck and swapped the engines. I'm going to clean the carb and put a fuel filter on it - Nice demo on t Also, never hear of a "Jerry can"....??
I’ve worked on around 40 lawnboys since this video and 50:1 is definitely the perfect mix. All of the ones with 32:1 have smoked and the spark plug was carboned up. Also have seen lots more of carb problems due to that.
I've been dealing with a surging Lawnboy Duraforce lawn mower for quite awhile now. Mine surges as soon as it starts up. It calms down after awhile but when it first starts up, I need to keep pressing the primer bulb once or twice to keep it going. I just came across your video and decided to give the micro drill bit into the pilot jet a try. ordered the bits today and they should be here in a couple of days. If I can come back to this post, I'll update on the results after I ream the pilot jet out a little. Thanks... Steve in Central Vermont
Thank you for the great video. Had to watch it a couple times was wondering whether that pilot jet needed to be covered up like with the original decal. Keep up the good work.
To aid in reassembly: Saw a screwdriver slot in one end of ONE piece of one inch long1/4-20 threaded rod. Screw it into one mounting hole about 1/4 inch. This allows you to hang the aluminum plate in position on the stud while installing one of the mounting bolts. Remove the rod and install other mounting bolt. An option is to also glue the aluminum plate and a gasket in position.
I had been using opt1 synthetic mixed at 50 to one. I was mowing the other day with a 10550 and it threw a rod and destroyed everything. Punched a hole in the case. It was running perfectly up to that time. Since then I have changed to 32 to 1 on the donar engine I installed. I have had others tell me that the Duraforce runs hot and needs the richer mix to help cool. On the other hand the dealer that sold me the opti 1 said I could run 50 to 1 in anything , and I have. Chainsaws, trimmers with no problems. This was the first time I had an engine blow on a mower. So to try and be safe , I'm using 32 to 1 on the Duraforce.
Thanks for the video…have a customer dropped off an abandoned one. They replaced the carb and it won’t rev up. Been sitting in my yard for over a year. Got it running with a Huff of GoGo Juice, Fresh Fuel and Seafoam. Only way it Rev up is if I push the buttery flap. Now I know how that spring is routed…pray for me I can get it to work lol
@@EliminatorPerformance already running! Machine Degreased, blades Reconditioned and listed for sale! Thanks again!🦅🇺🇸🔧🤙🏻. Hope the season is treating you guys well!
Using an ultrasonic cleaner to clean plastic Lawn Boy carbs, do you use any heat at all or a low temp? What is the temp you use? Sorry if I missed it. Thanks
Normally I would use hot water from the kettle, almost boiling to clean an aluminum carb. For Plastic carbs, Luke warm water, or room temp, as the vibration alone should be good. In the video here I just used the garden hose and an air compressor to show that it could be done!
The foam air filters don’t meed to be replaced unless they are absolutely disgusting or are disintegrated. All you have to do if rinse it under warm water, put some dawn dish soap on it, rub it about, rinse and let it dry in the sun.
I have a Lawn Boy Gold Series model 10546. the mower starts and runs great when it is cold but if you run it for a while.. 2-5 minutes, and then shut it off it wont start again until it is cold. Any ideas??? BTW.. I have cleaned the carb, replaced the primer bulb, changed the spark plug, and put new gas in it.
Could be the coil becoming heat soaked, it's a possibility. I'd check for spark when it gets hot and shuts off. You'll have your answer if it's the coil.
From the factory the inlet seat washer is not there, Toro used Loctite 515 gasket maker to seal the threads (and also around the pilot jet). Either method works, but that is why the Toro needle kits don't come with the washer - they expect you to use sealant.
Awesome video thanks so much! I think I just need a bowl gasket on mine but I appreciate all the info. Btw do people really put carburetors in the dishwasher? Lmao I believe it
Do you happen to know the factory rpm setting/notch on the air vane? If you have time would you be able to make a short video on the spring linkage to the air vane? Love your vids, thanks for the great content!
Good day Interesting video. The float was that a normal color? Yea yrs. ago I went with heavier oil mixture, until I bought Sthil whipper zipper & was told 50-1 is good enough. Thanks
Great video. My issue, I've just replaced both the ignitor and the carb, also adjusted the throttle cable. However, when I try to start the mower, it just runs for a few seconds then dies out. What could be going on?
Sounds like it's not pulling fuel through. It has enough to start, so you have spark and compression, but no flow! I'd double check the float height, and also make sure the fuel is flowing from the tank!
@@EliminatorPerformance thank you for the prompt response. You have a servant’s heart. I will double check, I think my new fuel tube is too long, I might try to cut that short. Great tips!
@Eliminator Performance Can you please post a video or explain how I can replace Toro Part 94-5764 SEAL-OIL for my Silverpro 102323 (2003)? It was determined this is the root cause of the surging as it's leaking oil. Please help!
@@EliminatorPerformance Any chance you could post a video explaining how I can replace Toro Part 94-5764 SEAL-OIL for my Silverpro 102323 (2003)? It was determined this is the root cause of the surging as it's leaking oil.
@@EliminatorPerformance the throttle plate pulls straight out towards you. You can then pull the entire throttle up to expose the spring. Also, if you look close enough, you can sometimes get the the spring back in the hole. Reassemble and adjust tension by turning the disc clockwise or counter clockwise to the right tension. Though dangerous, I use a clamp to lock the bar and carefully make minor adjustments after I have it back together. I've found that if you're machine is surging... You only need to clean the gas can and screen. Very good video.
Great video by the way! Thanks for creating very thorough content. Aside from not knowing how to read and adjust for compression, pressure, etc this fixed my machine that was acting up rough 15 years ago so I left it alone. After cleaning out the carb, it started on one pull! Hasn’t been used in 15 years lol
Would you have any suggestions for me if I told you I was having a hard time getting the bolts to retighten? I still have slack in the assembly, but the bolts feel as if they are maxed out when it comes to tightening. Possible thread issue?
Pressure gauge is a STENS 705-020 (look on Amazon) it cost me about $100 but well worth it for what I do. they were on sale for $74 not long ago. And the inline fuel filter is a standard 298090S Briggs inline fuel filter!
@@TheLizardKing64 no I don't believe so as they are just a metal screen. "There is no direction on this fuel filter. It filters either way with no check valve."
Funnily enough, these are the exact engines used in the Toro CCR2450 and CCR3650s before Briggs and Stratton bought out Lawn Boy's engine division. Those ran at 50:1.
I have a lawnmower lawnmower. There’s no model number or serial number. How can I find out what model number or serial number is it? Do you have any ideas? I would like to order parts thank you so much. Been watching your videos. Very nice.
Yes but I recommend a 50:1 mix if using the equipment residentially, or 40:1 (little bit more oil) if using the equipment more than once or twice a week!
Any idea where I could get a carb kit for a Lawn-Boy model 10324 with a model 98-7042 carb? I've done some looking and that carb is now obsolete and a model 107-4607 carb is being offered. I would prefer to rebuild the one I've got instead of buying a new one.
Got my carb all cleaned up and everything is back in place but I dont have any throttle control other then choke and wide open. When I move the throttle from choke to fast, the butterfly opens wide as it should but when I go from fast to slow, the butterfly doesn't move. Cable was adjusted as per your video but the only way I can use the mower is to run it partially choked, otherwise it turns about 10 grand!! lol Any clues?
@@EliminatorPerformance okay maybe you didn't read my original reply correctly. What would cause the butterfly to not close partially when the throttle control is moved to the slow position. It will choke it and it will move to wide open but when I move it to slow the butterfly doesn't move. I adjusted the cable as per the video and I dont see any broken or missing pieces. Thanks!!
@@jerrytracy5291 I had this same problem on an older LB 5254.. I had the top throttle spring threaded wrong through the lever on the air box. I like his idea of the wingnuts on the bolts to hold the thing together, made figuring out that issue a little easier.
My 10515 lost 3rd gear and is losing 2nd, with a rhythmic grinding preceding loss of gear. It still runs fine in first, but shifting is a bit stiff. I figure this is either a slipping pinion gear (in the trans, not the wheels) or shift keys, any idea which is more common or more likely? What are the most common and likely failures in the Lawn Boy 3 speed gearbox?
Without tearing it apart and looking at it, I'm not too sure to be honest. I've always stuck with the push lawnboys, as they have always been quite lightweight.
@@EliminatorPerformance I FINALLY found my problem, temporarily fixed it, and ordered the part for the permanent fix. It was a worn output shaft bushing, next to third gear, which allowed the 2 shafts to move farther apart, which allowed the gears to slip, 3rd gear first, then second. I used bits of an old pie plate to shim the bushings closer together, sticking the bits in the gaps between the bushings and the case on the outside, then ordered a new bushing off Ebay, (Part#60-8770) which beat Amazon this time. I also used more and better quality grease, mixing #2 with moly and teflon with a bit of gear oil to approximate #0 grease. The original old and cheap grease was pretty much sitting in the pan and not getting to the bushing.
Hy. y just buy one like this. it did not start. i cleaned carb and dii not want to start. adding fuel in the motor will start, so y take a look at crank seal :( FAIL) broken crank seal. Im in Montréal. can y still get parts for this
Gas cap says "32:1" but you talk about making a 50:1 ratio for fuel......why is that? I have the same mower, wondering if that would make a difference with the engine performance.
I noticed you have a hole in your throttle plate. This hole is not from the factory, but rather a surge fix, along with a Briggs pilot jet. I wish you would have spoken of that.
Yes as normally is the case, it costs more to repair them, but this is where maintenance comes into mind. If we use premium fuel and take care of equipment, it costs very little here and there to keep them operational. When they sit with old fuel and are neglected, they cost money to fix.
@@EliminatorPerformance I used to do that as a part-time thing. People would be shocked when I explain to them that it would cost more to fix their mower (parts/labor/fluids) than it would be to just buy a different one. Very good video.
@@Kuwaitin08 yes we used to take mowers in on trade instead of fixing them, then give someone $15 off one we'd sell chraper. Then fix that one up and sell it the same way. Would be a cycle of profit considering all the parts we put in are at cost, minus my labour. Thanks for watching!
Tried everything: cleaned out the carburetor, fuel lines, replaced spark plug and filter, sprayed carb cleaner and starter fluid; still wouldn't start. Done with gas mowers.
I greatly disagree with your comments about using 50:1 fuel in that engine. Many years ago (30?) I had a service person try to convince me that I could use a 40:1 fuel/oil mix in my 16:1 (1968) LawnBoy. Not being convinced I managed to have a phone conversation with an engineer at OMC. The engineer told me that what determines the amount of oil you need to use is the metallurgy of the cylinder, the metallurgy and number of rings on the piston and the the metallurgy and design of the needle bearings. The engineer stated that my 16:1 engine would always need a 16:1 fuel/oil mix. The 40:1 label on the oil was more or less a rating of the quality of the oil in that this oil could be diluted to a 40:1 fuel/oil mix and still provide good lubrication for an engine designed to run with a 40:1 mix. Older 16:1 or 32:1 oils could not be diluted to 40:1 and provide good lubrication to the new 40:1 engine. So I call "bogus" on your assertion that a person should run a 50:1 fuel/oil mix in a engine marked as needing a 32:1 mix. Maybe a person could get away with a 40:1 mix in that engine, using new oils, but I would never use a 50:1 mix in a 32:1 engine.
My neighbor has had a 2 stroke lawnboy for over 36 years and has only run 50:1 mix, the engine still runs great. He used to race motocross professionally, so I took his word for it, I mix all my 2 stroke fuel at 50:1 and I run all my 2 stroke equipment (both personal and customers) at that mixture and have never once had an issue. However, on the flip side of that, running to rich a mixture, I've seen plugs foul and carbs get gummed up, sitcky reed valves too. Todays oil does in fact lubricate better than the oil 40 years ago, so you can run a leaner fuel mix. At the end of the day though, I suppose it's up to you.
Um no i run them at 32 to 1 if i run them at anything less they ping and start knocking i never run my lawn boys at anything less then 32to1 actually i now run everything at 32to1 even my sthil 024 chain saw i never have an issue
You can, it won't necessarily hurt anything. I've found the richer mixture will foul plugs and gum up a carb quicker. As stated, I run 50:1 in all my 2 strokes and have never had an issue!
@@EliminatorPerformance yup and that's ok everyone runs different things ive found if i use 91 octane and a 32to1 mix it doesnt bother anything but if you run 87 or 89 octane it does foul plugs even the 50to1 machines at the proper mix so i just run 91 in everything except automobiles
What’s a great online vender to buy these parts OEM or AM types. I need to buy a new choke throttle cable. Mine got pinched from folding over. Great machine. I bought two of these 20 years ago. I’m on the second one after using for 30 min it’s been in storage. Can’t get it to start lol. Been sitting a tad too long. Best mowers I’ve used. Not sure what to do if I need a new one that’s comparable to these beasts. I’d mow for hours and hours. Never ever had 1 issue ever.
We do have trusted distributors! STENS, Canada Power Technology, Powersource Canada, Oregon etc... But you need registered business license to sign up and you also must go through a lengthy credit application process.
Eliminator Performance oh I see. Yeah I don’t need that much. I looked on Amazon and see a few good sellers as well as eBay. Appreciate the help though!
I have a lawnmower lawnmower. There’s no model number or serial number. How can I find out what model number or serial number is it? Do you have any ideas? I would like to order parts thank you so much. Been watching your videos. Very nice.
Excellent video. You went above it precisely as it should have been done. No corners cut. I love that.
Yesterday I decided that my Model 10525 had sat in the shed long enough. Last time I tried to use it I had to leave in on partial choke because it was surging. At the time I didn’t know that this was a common problem. Then I got a riding mower and the Lawn Boy sat. For 16 years. So last night I watched this video and today I cleaned the carb and spark plug. The silly thing started on the second pull! THANK YOU!
Thanks for watching!
Excellent video! One thing I’ve done to two of my Lawn-Boys is cut a piece of foam off an old air filter and put it in the primer bulb. That helps block dirt and dust from another path to the carb. I have a 1973, 1975, and 1987 Lawn-Boy and they all fire up on the first or second pull, and I still use them to mow weekly.
This video cleared up my surging problem! Holding the filter box to the carb allowed me to see how it all worked together. Great teacher and at just the right pace.
Thanks for watching!
I picked up a free lawnboy with the carb disassembled, this was a huge help, thank you much for the well made through video, it was a huge time saver and I learned a lot as well!
Nice work Man
Thanks for watching!
This is one of the best instructional videos I have every seen. Great job.
And again, tonight I picked up a similar model Lawn Boy by the side of the road. This video will be helpful for repairing this one as well. Thanks!
The best video on this carburator. Well done!! I am hesitant in using in other oil mix other than 32:1. I rather now my engine is getting proper lubrication. Love the video, clear and to the point 👉.
I know this is old, but it has some really good info on these old beasts, thanks a bunch brother, just what I needed, very informative and well produced!
Excellent video, without a doubt one of the best I have seen regarding this mower. Great job!
Excellent complete video including part numbers used. Thank you for such a helpful video.
Great tip on the primer bulb installation i expect a lot of people have had issues installing these primer bulbs without using your ingenious tool selection.
Thanks!
one of the truly good lawn mowers.
The best, aluminum deck never rusts!
Plastic carbs easy to clean!
Can you take out (to clean it or drilm a larger pilot hole as you suggest) the rpm screw without taking apart the whole carburetor?
@@BroadwayJoe49 Yes, it's on the side!
Great video! Got my mower running again! Many thanks!
I love the way he explains things. Definitely explained everything I need to repair my Lawnboy. Mine leaks fuel through the carb when not in use. Even leaks some fuel into the crankcase.
Thanks for watching!
@@EliminatorPerformance Where did you purchase you tiny drill set? If from a tool dealer MAC, Snap-On, that is okay as I have contacts in the automotive trade to order that.
Excellent video. I also use the 50 to 1 mix and have had no issues in equipment from my shop. Thanks for the video's.
I've also never had any issues, and run 50:1 in all my 2 strokes! Thanks for watching!
I want this guy to fix mine. Well done.
great tip on using the wing nuts to hold the carb to the air filter.
Thanks Ed, and thanks for watching!
What thread are the wing nuts ?
Great video! I've ran the piss out of mine for 17 years. I've cleaned the air filter like every 3 years and only changed plugs twice and a coil once or twice. It still starts every time. Did make sure to break it in slowly when new. Just bought a "parts" mower with a super nice deck and swapped the engines. I'm going to clean the carb and put a fuel filter on it - Nice demo on t
Also, never hear of a "Jerry can"....??
Jerry can = gas can lol
Excellent video. You are a natural. I learned a lot.
I’ve worked on around 40 lawnboys since this video and 50:1 is definitely the perfect mix. All of the ones with 32:1 have smoked and the spark plug was carboned up. Also have seen lots more of carb problems due to that.
Thanks, that usually what I run in 2 strokes that are used weekly. If using a trimmer or chainsaw every day for work, I'd recommend 40:1
I've been dealing with a surging Lawnboy Duraforce lawn mower for quite awhile now. Mine surges as soon as it starts up. It calms down after awhile but when it first starts up, I need to keep pressing the primer bulb once or twice to keep it going.
I just came across your video and decided to give the micro drill bit into the pilot jet a try. ordered the bits today and they should be here in a couple of days.
If I can come back to this post, I'll update on the results after I ream the pilot jet out a little.
Thanks...
Steve in Central Vermont
Thank you for the great video. Had to watch it a couple times was wondering whether that pilot jet needed to be covered up like with the original decal. Keep up the good work.
Great video ! Cool to see your gauge indicate the leaky needle and seat . 👍
Thanks for watching!
To aid in reassembly: Saw a screwdriver slot in one end of ONE piece of one inch long1/4-20 threaded rod. Screw it into one mounting
hole about 1/4 inch. This allows you to hang the aluminum plate in position on the stud while installing one of the mounting bolts.
Remove the rod and install other mounting bolt. An option is to also glue the aluminum plate and a gasket in position.
Never thought about using wingnuts to hold the entire setup together. Might have to try that if I get another lawnboy that has a throttle setup.
Yea it really makes the whole cleaning process much easier, by not having to remove the tension spring! Thanks for watching!
@@EliminatorPerformance What size wing nut did you use to hold everything together? Thx
nice trick with the pilot jet, that heiped my surging problem, thanks.
Thanks for watching, glad it helped!
Great job! Very helpful. Thanks.
I had been using opt1 synthetic mixed at 50 to one. I was mowing the other day with a 10550 and it threw a rod and destroyed everything. Punched a hole in the case. It was running perfectly up to that time. Since then I have changed to 32 to 1 on the donar engine I installed. I have had others tell me that the Duraforce runs hot and needs the richer mix to help cool. On the other hand the dealer that sold me the opti 1 said I could run 50 to 1 in anything , and I have. Chainsaws, trimmers with no problems. This was the first time I had an engine blow on a mower. So to try and be safe , I'm using 32 to 1 on the Duraforce.
Thanks for the video…have a customer dropped off an abandoned one. They replaced the carb and it won’t rev up.
Been sitting in my yard for over a year. Got it running with a Huff of GoGo Juice, Fresh Fuel and Seafoam. Only way it Rev up is if I push the buttery flap.
Now I know how that spring is routed…pray for me I can get it to work lol
🙏 sending positive vibes your way Pattay
@@EliminatorPerformance already running! Machine Degreased, blades Reconditioned and listed for sale!
Thanks again!🦅🇺🇸🔧🤙🏻. Hope the season is treating you guys well!
@@pattayperformance very well, wishing you the same. Thanks for stopping by!
You just helped me find the correct air filter. Thank you
Thanks for watching!
Subcribed. Clear, perfect instruction.Thanks.I did on my Lawnboy 10323
Thanks for watching!
Using an ultrasonic cleaner to clean plastic Lawn Boy carbs, do you use any heat at all or a low temp? What is the temp you use? Sorry if I missed it. Thanks
Normally I would use hot water from the kettle, almost boiling to clean an aluminum carb.
For Plastic carbs, Luke warm water, or room temp, as the vibration alone should be good.
In the video here I just used the garden hose and an air compressor to show that it could be done!
The foam air filters don’t meed to be replaced unless they are absolutely disgusting or are disintegrated. All you have to do if rinse it under warm water, put some dawn dish soap on it, rub it about, rinse and let it dry in the sun.
I have a Lawn Boy Gold Series model 10546. the mower starts and runs great when it is cold but if you run it for a while.. 2-5 minutes, and then shut it off it wont start again until it is cold. Any ideas??? BTW.. I have cleaned the carb, replaced the primer bulb, changed the spark plug, and put new gas in it.
Could be the coil becoming heat soaked, it's a possibility. I'd check for spark when it gets hot and shuts off. You'll have your answer if it's the coil.
@@EliminatorPerformance ok.. thanks.. I have a new coil ordered thinking that may be the issue.
@@EliminatorPerformance thought I would let you know that I got the new coil in and replaced it. Works great now.. thanks!!!
From the factory the inlet seat washer is not there, Toro used Loctite 515 gasket maker to seal the threads (and also around the pilot jet). Either method works, but that is why the Toro needle kits don't come with the washer - they expect you to use sealant.
Good info, thanks for watching!
I miss the Briggs&Stratton 2 cycles.
Is there a reason that you don't add a fuel shutoff valve in addition to the inline fuel filter?
Awesome video thanks so much! I think I just need a bowl gasket on mine but I appreciate all the info. Btw do people really put carburetors in the dishwasher? Lmao I believe it
Do you happen to know the factory rpm setting/notch on the air vane? If you have time would you be able to make a short video on the spring linkage to the air vane? Love your vids, thanks for the great content!
I have a video adjusting the air vane governor on a commerical Lawnboy: th-cam.com/video/GswQYrEFCVY/w-d-xo.html
@@EliminatorPerformance Sorry I probably should have looked first haha but thank you! All the best. Looking forward to your next upload
@@EliminatorPerformance Also one more thing I wanted to ask, was what micro drill bit set do you use/would you recommend?
Little late to the party, but good video. Picked up a couple good pointers. Well done
Thanks for watching!
Good day Interesting video. The float was that a normal color? Yea yrs. ago I went with heavier oil mixture, until I bought Sthil whipper zipper & was told 50-1 is good enough. Thanks
Yea those floats always seem to look like that, just discoloration.
And yea I run 50:1 in all my 2 strokes, never had an issue!
Great video. My issue, I've just replaced both the ignitor and the carb, also adjusted the throttle cable. However, when I try to start the mower, it just runs for a few seconds then dies out. What could be going on?
Sounds like it's not pulling fuel through. It has enough to start, so you have spark and compression, but no flow! I'd double check the float height, and also make sure the fuel is flowing from the tank!
@@EliminatorPerformance thank you for the prompt response. You have a servant’s heart. I will double check, I think my new fuel tube is too long, I might try to cut that short. Great tips!
@Eliminator Performance Can you please post a video or explain how I can replace Toro Part 94-5764 SEAL-OIL for my Silverpro 102323 (2003)? It was determined this is the root cause of the surging as it's leaking oil. Please help!
@@EliminatorPerformance Any chance you could post a video explaining how I can replace Toro Part 94-5764 SEAL-OIL for my Silverpro 102323 (2003)? It was determined this is the root cause of the surging as it's leaking oil.
Thanks for the awesome video! So we can order parts from you?
No unfortunately not, I'm just a dealer not a parts distributor.
Thank you so much. Really helped!
Thanks for watching!
Thanks. Very informative.
Can you use brake cleaner instead to clean out the carb base? Any downside?
Brake cleaner will work fine
Very good explanation love the video ty
Ps I also subscribed
Thanks for watching!
excellent vid.
Can you tell me how to adjust the top spring tension as I had to replace the spring ! Regards
I'm actually not too sure, you may have to do some research online for that one!
@@EliminatorPerformance the throttle plate pulls straight out towards you. You can then pull the entire throttle up to expose the spring. Also, if you look close enough, you can sometimes get the the spring back in the hole. Reassemble and adjust tension by turning the disc clockwise or counter clockwise to the right tension. Though dangerous, I use a clamp to lock the bar and carefully make minor adjustments after I have it back together. I've found that if you're machine is surging... You only need to clean the gas can and screen. Very good video.
Great video by the way! Thanks for creating very thorough content. Aside from not knowing how to read and adjust for compression, pressure, etc this fixed my machine that was acting up rough 15 years ago so I left it alone. After cleaning out the carb, it started on one pull! Hasn’t been used in 15 years lol
is the a hole in the side screw that needs to be pocked out ,(clean)
I recommend the Sunoco 32:1 pre mix gas.
Would you have any suggestions for me if I told you I was having a hard time getting the bolts to retighten? I still have slack in the assembly, but the bolts feel as if they are maxed out when it comes to tightening. Possible thread issue?
What type of vacuum gauge do you use? Also the part number for the inline fuel filter. Thanks Richard
Pressure gauge is a STENS 705-020 (look on Amazon) it cost me about $100 but well worth it for what I do. they were on sale for $74 not long ago.
And the inline fuel filter is a standard 298090S Briggs inline fuel filter!
@@EliminatorPerformance Does it matter in what direction you place your 298090 fuel filter?
@@TheLizardKing64 no I don't believe so as they are just a metal screen. "There is no direction on this fuel filter. It filters either way with no check valve."
@@EliminatorPerformance Thank you!
Do the lawnboy 2 stroke air filters get oiled or not?
Yea you can lightly oil foam filters, but it's not necessary if you change them frequently
Funnily enough, these are the exact engines used in the Toro CCR2450 and CCR3650s before Briggs and Stratton bought out Lawn Boy's engine division. Those ran at 50:1.
I always run 50:1 thanks for watching!
Great video 👍
Thanks for watching Don!
Hello. I have a lawn boy 2 stroke dura force silver series. Does at half and full throttle after a couple mins. Any ideas
I have a lawnmower lawnmower. There’s no model number or serial number. How can I find out what model number or serial number is it? Do you have any ideas? I would like to order parts thank you so much. Been watching your videos. Very nice.
It is a long boy
Will 32 to 1 work in this lawnmower?
Yes but I recommend a 50:1 mix if using the equipment residentially, or 40:1 (little bit more oil) if using the equipment more than once or twice a week!
Good job
Id like to get a 2cycle lawnboy one reasone is you never have to change the oil only when you get a new can of gas and oild
Very simple, I run 50:1 ratio on all my fuel mix for 2 strokes, and make sure you use a fuel stabilizer! Thanks for watching!
Where can I get the micro drill set?
Amazon or eBay forsure, although we got ours at a local machine shop/industrial supply place
Any idea where I could get a carb kit for a Lawn-Boy model 10324 with a model 98-7042 carb? I've done some looking and that carb is now obsolete and a model 107-4607 carb is being offered. I would prefer to rebuild the one I've got instead of buying a new one.
What size are the wing nuts you used to hold the carb together? Thx
so, what oil do i start using ? i use 91 octane in all my small engines now. no ethanol . 50:1 mix. can i use sthiel can fuel ?
Yes, can fuel should be good!
You didn't mention anything about oiling the filter either
Got my carb all cleaned up and everything is back in place but I dont have any throttle control other then choke and wide open. When I move the throttle from choke to fast, the butterfly opens wide as it should but when I go from fast to slow, the butterfly doesn't move. Cable was adjusted as per your video but the only way I can use the mower is to run it partially choked, otherwise it turns about 10 grand!! lol Any clues?
Air leak maybe, sounds like running lean (too much air) will cause high rev
@@EliminatorPerformance should the butterfly move from wide open to partially open when I move the lever from fast to slow?
@@jerrytracy5291 yes this will limit air and cause the engine to slow down
@@EliminatorPerformance okay maybe you didn't read my original reply correctly. What would cause the butterfly to not close partially when the throttle control is moved to the slow position. It will choke it and it will move to wide open but when I move it to slow the butterfly doesn't move. I adjusted the cable as per the video and I dont see any broken or missing pieces. Thanks!!
@@jerrytracy5291 I had this same problem on an older LB 5254.. I had the top throttle spring threaded wrong through the lever on the air box. I like his idea of the wingnuts on the bolts to hold the thing together, made figuring out that issue a little easier.
what size wing nuts do you use?
Excellent!
👍
My 10515 lost 3rd gear and is losing 2nd, with a rhythmic grinding preceding loss of gear. It still runs fine in first, but shifting is a bit stiff. I figure this is either a slipping pinion gear (in the trans, not the wheels) or shift keys, any idea which is more common or more likely? What are the most common and likely failures in the Lawn Boy 3 speed gearbox?
Without tearing it apart and looking at it, I'm not too sure to be honest. I've always stuck with the push lawnboys, as they have always been quite lightweight.
@@EliminatorPerformance I FINALLY found my problem, temporarily fixed it, and ordered the part for the permanent fix. It was a worn output shaft bushing, next to third gear, which allowed the 2 shafts to move farther apart, which allowed the gears to slip, 3rd gear first, then second. I used bits of an old pie plate to shim the bushings closer together, sticking the bits in the gaps between the bushings and the case on the outside, then ordered a new bushing off Ebay, (Part#60-8770) which beat Amazon this time. I also used more and better quality grease, mixing #2 with moly and teflon with a bit of gear oil to approximate #0 grease. The original old and cheap grease was pretty much sitting in the pan and not getting to the bushing.
@@alan6832 nice! Good fix, makes sense that it was a shaft misaligned if 1 gear worked and the others had issues!
Hy. y just buy one like this. it did not start. i cleaned carb and dii not want to start. adding fuel in the motor will start, so y take a look at crank seal :( FAIL) broken crank seal. Im in Montréal. can y still get parts for this
Try Amazon or a Toro dealer they may have them
@@EliminatorPerformance i did push back the seal lip in place add glue and i start the motor :) run good so i will repare it :)
y will get the seal next week :) :)
Gas cap says "32:1" but you talk about making a 50:1 ratio for fuel......why is that? I have the same mower, wondering if that would make a difference with the engine performance.
Stay at 32:1
Excellent! Thank you for doing what you do! You dont have a single father or grandfather do you?? lol
I noticed you have a hole in your throttle plate. This hole is not from the factory, but rather a surge fix, along with a Briggs pilot jet. I wish you would have spoken of that.
👍 🙏
Wow. The full service probably cost more than the value of the mower. I find those online for under $100 quite often.
Yes as normally is the case, it costs more to repair them, but this is where maintenance comes into mind. If we use premium fuel and take care of equipment, it costs very little here and there to keep them operational. When they sit with old fuel and are neglected, they cost money to fix.
@@EliminatorPerformance I used to do that as a part-time thing. People would be shocked when I explain to them that it would cost more to fix their mower (parts/labor/fluids) than it would be to just buy a different one. Very good video.
@@Kuwaitin08 yes we used to take mowers in on trade instead of fixing them, then give someone $15 off one we'd sell chraper. Then fix that one up and sell it the same way. Would be a cycle of profit considering all the parts we put in are at cost, minus my labour. Thanks for watching!
Plastic carburetor jeeeezzzz, what will be next ? Plastic crankcase?
😂 that is not a Styrofoam float...it's cork....
Why did you not just not replace the spring? It's clearly stretched
Tried everything: cleaned out the carburetor, fuel lines, replaced spark plug and filter, sprayed carb cleaner and starter fluid; still wouldn't start.
Done with gas mowers.
Do you have spark?
I greatly disagree with your comments about using 50:1 fuel in that engine. Many years ago (30?) I had a service person try to convince me that I could use a 40:1 fuel/oil mix in my 16:1 (1968) LawnBoy. Not being convinced I managed to have a phone conversation with an engineer at OMC. The engineer told me that what determines the amount of oil you need to use is the metallurgy of the cylinder, the metallurgy and number of rings on the piston and the the metallurgy and design of the needle bearings. The engineer stated that my 16:1 engine would always need a 16:1 fuel/oil mix. The 40:1 label on the oil was more or less a rating of the quality of the oil in that this oil could be diluted to a 40:1 fuel/oil mix and still provide good lubrication for an engine designed to run with a 40:1 mix. Older 16:1 or 32:1 oils could not be diluted to 40:1 and provide good lubrication to the new 40:1 engine.
So I call "bogus" on your assertion that a person should run a 50:1 fuel/oil mix in a engine marked as needing a 32:1 mix. Maybe a person could get away with a 40:1 mix in that engine, using new oils, but I would never use a 50:1 mix in a 32:1 engine.
My neighbor has had a 2 stroke lawnboy for over 36 years and has only run 50:1 mix, the engine still runs great. He used to race motocross professionally, so I took his word for it, I mix all my 2 stroke fuel at 50:1 and I run all my 2 stroke equipment (both personal and customers) at that mixture and have never once had an issue.
However, on the flip side of that, running to rich a mixture, I've seen plugs foul and carbs get gummed up, sitcky reed valves too.
Todays oil does in fact lubricate better than the oil 40 years ago, so you can run a leaner fuel mix. At the end of the day though, I suppose it's up to you.
Um no i run them at 32 to 1 if i run them at anything less they ping and start knocking i never run my lawn boys at anything less then 32to1 actually i now run everything at 32to1 even my sthil 024 chain saw i never have an issue
You can, it won't necessarily hurt anything. I've found the richer mixture will foul plugs and gum up a carb quicker.
As stated, I run 50:1 in all my 2 strokes and have never had an issue!
@@EliminatorPerformance yup and that's ok everyone runs different things ive found if i use 91 octane and a 32to1 mix it doesnt bother anything but if you run 87 or 89 octane it does foul plugs even the 50to1 machines at the proper mix so i just run 91 in everything except automobiles
Thats why i said that but maybe your fuel quality is better in Canada
It is a lawn boy
What’s a great online vender to buy these parts OEM or AM types. I need to buy a new choke throttle cable. Mine got pinched from folding over. Great machine. I bought two of these 20 years ago. I’m on the second one after using for 30 min it’s been in storage. Can’t get it to start lol. Been sitting a tad too long. Best mowers I’ve used. Not sure what to do if I need a new one that’s comparable to these beasts. I’d mow for hours and hours. Never ever had 1 issue ever.
Probably Amazon would be your best bet
Eliminator Performance ok sounds great. I’ve had issues with junk parts so figured you might have a trusted retailer.
We do have trusted distributors! STENS, Canada Power Technology, Powersource Canada, Oregon etc... But you need registered business license to sign up and you also must go through a lengthy credit application process.
Eliminator Performance oh I see. Yeah I don’t need that much. I looked on Amazon and see a few good sellers as well as eBay. Appreciate the help though!
I have a lawnmower lawnmower. There’s no model number or serial number. How can I find out what model number or serial number is it? Do you have any ideas? I would like to order parts thank you so much. Been watching your videos. Very nice.
What size wing nuts do you use?