Prusa Mini: How to fix clicking Extruder, under-extrusion, clogging, and filament jams
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- เผยแพร่เมื่อ 28 ก.พ. 2020
- Happy Leap Year everyone!
This video will show you on how to fix the hotend issues for your Prusa Mini printer.
PS: this channel also has a name change (from AUTech) to avoid all potential business name or trademark dispute in the future.
Credits:
Prusa Knowledgebase: help.prusa3d.com/en/article/c...
Cold Pull: help.prusa3d.com/en/article/c...
How to change a hotend PTFE tube - MINI: manual.prusa3d.com/Guide/How+... - วิทยาศาสตร์และเทคโนโลยี
Thanks for the video. I am surprised that there are not more videos on this topic. I received my Prusa Mini last week and after about 30 hours of printing, I got a massive clog. Nozzle was completely encased in filament, big blob. I also noticed that the height of the steel spring plates are different thicknesses. You need to re-calibrate each time that you change the build plate.
Yes I had the exactly same issue when I was instructed to perform the cold pull. I used the cleaning filament from eSUN and the blob of the filament was completely stuck inside the heat sink. I got injured as I used way too excessive force on piler and it hit my mouth, and the blob was still stuck inside. I took the nozzle off and use the allen key to push up the bolb - it didn't work either! To fix that I heated up the nozzle up to 270C and cut down the power for the printer - this was to stop the fan from spinning. I pushed out the big blob as the filament was melted and deformed.
You can add build sheet profiles to make swapping easier. No need to recalibrate between sheet swaps
This is actually the first Video that helped me with my Prinzer. I had this problem for a while now since i canged nozzles several times. Prusa Support couldn’t help me they just said it was the extruder. Great job and THANK YOU!
I havent had my Mini for more than one month and im already having these problems. At first I thought it was the Filament brand or retraction settings. I've checked belts, bolts, lubing, done cold pulls etc. I think this is the issue. I'm in for a long print right now but i'll try this right after. What blew my mind is that I printed a benchy a week ago that was nearly perfect, just slight stringing. Did the same test yesterday and the stringing is crazy with the same settings. Disappointed in prusa.
I've been trying all night to get my Prusa Mini working. This did the trick! Thank you so much!
Thanks. I had a different issue from the ones you mentioned. But looking for those led me to the actual problem
Thanks you for tha video mutsh love from ... Ingolf
Thanks for this. I’ll be trying this tomorrow. 🙂
Hello From Germany,
Thaks for the video an the Links in the Describtion !
Thank you - this was perfect and correct. May want to add to clean the extruder anyways.
Thank you m8, that was extremely useful
THANK YOU!
Thanks so much for making this video! I think I spent 10+ hours testing various temperature settings in the slicer trying to lower the 'heat creep' since I didn't even know I could adjust the heat block height manually. I had to adjust the height sensor afterwards (thanks for the encouragement to do so!) but this is the first time I've been able to successfully print on the mini without getting the little blockages you showed at 10:48. Thanks again!
No worries @Little Tall Tales! I went through days of pain after two months of ownership of my clogged Prusa Mini, and their support couldn't figure out the root cause.
I am more than happy to share my experiences here and I am glad you figured it out.
My Prusa Mini runs reliably for more than three months since I did the rectification on nozzle height in February and I believe a lot of people might have the same issue on this.
You know this video could have been 5 min long you know you know
Helpful. It would have been better if you actually showed us what you did. But, I don't blame you for not wanting to do it over once you got it working. Thanks.
Thanks for the video. Just received my mini, did two small prints and then starting having these same issues. Tried a cold pull and can tell the end of the filament is expanded so I have to adjust my PTFE tube. Disappointing as I have two Prusa's, MK2.5s and MK3, that were delivered assembled and never had an issue. Sad that out of the box these minis have assembly issues. Four years experience I can easily deal with this but I expect and new user might be very discouraged.
Hi Bob and thanks for taking a moment watching this video clip. Yes, I had A LOT OF frustrations back in the days with this clog issues with my Prusa Mini, Gen 1. I tried to contact the support and I think they were not very experienced with Mini back in the days. I think Prusa, at least for now, is not very experienced to sell assembled machines in such large quantities - most of the MK3/S printers are sold as kit. The good news is, once the alignment issue is fixed, my machine never had a single clicking or clog.
I think at this stage, I still love my little Mini. Considering my machine was shipped back in December 2019, it would be an early-stage release.
PS: I was quite caught up with this COVID-19 pandemic and I hope to post more videos once it's settled on my end.
you are right i have this problem and this is my first printer and i am afraid to do that and cause more damage to the printer.
@@Warbeaver well i will never buy prusa again i have used other filamnt printer before and never gave this problem. this my first owned printer and this brand is not worth it espically the customer service is horriable.
upgraded from ender 3 to prusa mini and have been very disappointed.
@@manuelcruz2256 I know how you feel. I will never buy another prusa especially their support is horrible.
Thank you for the video. Had a quick question.
When you push the hotend upwards, it will drag the PTFE tube up with it. That will probably cause the part that goes above the PTFE tube to squish the PTFE tube and overtighten it. Is that what you should be doing?
I believe the PTFE tube needs a bit of the compression to prevent the melted filament from leaking out at the bottom (the nozzle end). My Mini is still going strong after one year so it's proven to work on my end! Hope this helps :-)
I've never had any of those problems with my Prusa Mini. It works excellently all the time. I do try to improve the prints by changing the flow rate and the z offset. What flow rate do you like?
This is a 3-year-old video and since then I've donated my machine to a school and no longer an owner of Mini, however my new workplace, which is a school as well, has Mini+ and I haven't experienced this issue as of yet (It's relatively new). My copy of the Prusa Mini was really an early model with serial number less than 100 so you could imagine that might be some issues here and there. What I can confirm that this one has no direct relationship with flow rate as I recalled even the stock GCODE from the USB stick caused the clog after first dozen of layers, which was extremely frustrating.
At the time, even Prusa official chat support channel had no idea why this happened and you can see my video helped a lot of people with similar problem.
Reflecting on the potential root cause, I would assume there had been insufficient cooling for the hotted and it resulted in heat creeping above the nozzle. Once the filament melted at the intersection of heatsink and nozzle, it will interrupt the filament from going down, given the fact that there might be a small gap between the end of the PTFE tube and the start of the nozzle area. My method worked because of the elimination of the gap.
The extruder screw with the spring was loose on my assembelt prusa mini. Cant tighten it cause it doesnt bite :( this normal? It doesnt even print the test.
Still a noob in 3d printing. But my mini the filament got stuck in the brass fitting between tubes after the filament motor. As it stop printing and wouldn’t come out or go in. This is with Prusa filament.
If I push the heat break so high, the inliner has to be shortened, otherwise the connection cannot be screwed in as far as it will go. Is that correct? My inliner is 43mm long?
Hi @Grüner Woodworking
! You don't need to shorten the PTFE tube.
I think as long as the nozzle is brought a little bit closer to the heatsink, you should be okay. There is supposed to be some sort of 'compression' for that PTFE tube, as you can feel the friction when you screw in the upper fitting part in. However, I wouldn't recommend putting too much force for those three grabbing screws to keep everything in place.
I just tried my first print and half way through the first layer it blocked and would not back the filament out. Stripped out the bowden tube and the the short tube just popped out. Should this be secured somehow other than downward pressure from bowden fitting. Paid top dollar fir a ready built printer that didn’t work out if the box. Would you be happy if you bought a new tv and the manufacturer asked you to fix it yourself? Gutted that I have to cock about. Wish I’d bought 3 x ender3 instead. Shite.
Good video though mate
Glad to hear this video helped. I absolutely agree with you and I got so frustrated with this machine back in days - the Prusa support did not help much as they had no clues on troubleshooting the jams when this machine got released. I am also a Creality CR6 SE (Kickstarter) and Ender 3 Pro (for school) user and I think all these machines have pros and cons. For the long run, I do love the fine-tuned slicing profile from Prusa as for Creality, sometimes it's trial and error at the beginning. Also I realised that the mini prints slighly faster than my MK3S, possibly due to the new driver TMC2209?
It's also annoying that CR6 SE has the motherboard defects which prevented me from using Octoprint - I might do a BTT SKR board replacement when I get a chance!
Which one would you say is quieter. The mini or mk3?
The mini is definitely quieter also prints slightly faster IMO. :-)
This felt like a meeting that should have been an email...
Thanks for your effort in attempting to provide advice...
Best wishes!
I've had my prusa mini for just over a month and the same thing. Getting clogged won't print, grinds the filament.. I'm really sick of it to honest!!
The tube is not supposed to reach the end, its intentionally shorter so that you can print high temperature materials such as at 275C. If the tube is too close it will deform at those temps.
Incorrect. Here is a direct quote from Prusa themselves in their guide to replacing the PTFE tube, "It is crucial there is no gap between the PTFE tube and other parts of the hotend. This is why we are pre-stressing it."
When you heat your hotend above 220C the PTFE tube inside it will start deteriorating inside it and giving off toxic fumes.
Normal PTFE tube would be able to handle the temperature higher than this. Also, the internal construction of Prusa Mini is designed the way like this. There is nothing much you can do. In other words, if you print any material 220C and above, your PTFE tube will be pretty much in direct contact with the hotend at this temperature, at least more or less.
@@dchstudio9519 Yeah, an all metal hotend makes sense.
Same problem and I wrecked my brain trying to fix it. No help from Prusa. This is a horrible design flaw on Prusa's part really can't understand why they didn't include a simple push in plastic collet to retain the PTFE tube.
I still have 2 months to wait for shipping. I'm getting buyers remorse already! Maybe cancel the order but what other printer?
Hi @Yakena1, I still believe Prusa Mini is a great printer! However, there are some issues and lack of documentation on the Prusa side but I would believe these issues will be resolved in the coming months. I think if you want a printer now, MK3S is still a workhorse, despite I am starting to hate the 8-bit microcontroller. MK3S are faster printers than mini because of the direct drive vs Bowden construction. Thanks for watching the video and let me know if you have any questions :-)
@@dchstudio9519 I live in Asia and the additional cost to have either system shipped makes me wonder if I am making the correct decision. I never owned a 3d printer, and I am now looking at a MK3S clone from Triangle labs. Maybe a better way to do a diy and get up to speed.
@@Yakena1 I understand this. Actually, MK3/S is still very capable of being a primary 3D Printer. They print faster and the service documents are very useful and user-friendly (compared to Prusa Mini as of this stage). As an owner of 2 MK3, lately all upgraded to MK3S, I purchased my first kit from Prusa as a kit. However, the duty and import tax here in Australia is way too high so I purchased the upgrade kit from Prusa and out-sourced some parts in order to build the second MK3. Everything worked quite well except the motors. I ended up buying motor from Zaribo, who sells LDO motors for their printers.
@@Ohioan29 I think their production was affected by the coronavirus in China as there was a defect in their LCD assembly. My copy of mini is still going strong. I ordered my unit just 2-3 hours after the video release and I got it in mid-December last year. I think this printer makes great secondary printer but we all have to understand this is a lower cost machine so Prusa is trying to save some money on this machine, like belts, smooth rods and extruding mechanism.
Awesome video and super helpful, but for the love of everything please remove uhhhh and ummm from your vocabulary, hard listen, great info!
You say "you know" way too much. I don't know man, thats why I'm here
This video was non-scripted :-) Thanks for watching anyway!
@@dchstudio9519 I watched it like 4 or 5 times, don't know how the yotube stats work but hope it added to your view count. Didn't solve my problem but put me on the right track. Thanks!
ummmmmmm....ummmm.ummmmmmm...ummmmmmm.ummmmmmmammmmmmmmm
I can’t tell you how much I hate the prusa mini 😂
I was sort of the same, but Mini can be a power horse for non-stop production. My extruder issue never came back since this video was published and the machine is still going strong (despite two service tickets regarding the PINDA probe and heatbed issues - both were cable fatigue related but Prusa managed to send me the new parts both times.).
Good luck :-)