How To Keep Your Prusa MINI In SHIP SHAPE!!
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- เผยแพร่เมื่อ 15 พ.ค. 2024
- We’re back at it again with another Prusa 3D maintenance video! This time around, we’re explaining the upkeep for a Prusa MINI!
Do you want us to talk about how to maintain YOUR 3D printer? Then leave a comment below with the type of 3D printer you own!
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Prusa MK3S maintenance: • Maintaining Your Prusa...
Prusa Mini build off: • Prusa Mini+ Build off!...
Prusa 2.4 update review: • PrusaSlicer's GIGANTIC...
Prusa print farm: • A Look at the GROUNDBR...
Prusa's newest resin printer: • SL1S Prusa's Latest Re...
0:00 Intro
3:30 Cleaning the Mini with alcohol
4:55 Applying sewing machine oil
7:00 Pulling apart and maintaining the extruder
16:56 Cleaning the heater sock
18:20 Checking the underside and electronics
19:27 Tightening all the screws
21:08 Sponsor segment
22:00 Outro/Conclusion
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I've had my prusa mini+ for over a year now and the only failures I've had are from my mistakes in the slicer when I forget to change something. My printer has been 100% reliable so far.
AWESOME!
I use this video every time to maintenance my prusa mini, and it has helped so much. Thank you so much for making such helpful videos!!
Glad it helped!
Thank you for your efforts in making this video happen. It has helped my understanding of my mini greatly.
Awesome! Glad you got some value out of it! More mini videos coming soon!
Good video. I just purchased my Mini and this is my first printer. Thank you for the tips.
Glad it helped! We just did a mini Revo upgrade video as well. Currently printing POLYCARB with it!
Thanks for this video. Helped me figure out why the filament wasn't loading properly. got it going and printing again. :)
Glad it helped!!
Great vid! Now I have a mini and can take use of that type of content : )
Woo!
Thanks for this video Grant! I love my mini but wish I’d bought the MK3S instead. I like the bigger build volume.
the extra space is nice!
This is such an excellent video. This video covered many gripes I had buying an assembled mini. After a week of printing my extruder actually came loose and one of the screws came out when I was moving it. I had no idea where it came from. I looked around and it came from the extruder, when I tried screwing it in, it never caught the grub. I looked at the manual and used the other screw that held down the extruder.
Preferably I would have gone with the kit but the wait time was double. If they were going to sell the assembled version I wish it wasn't a half assed assembly. If anyone is reading this just know you will be basically taking the assembled version apart eventually. For mine, Extruder screw came loose after a week of printing, pinda probe wasn't adjusted properly, bearing in the X carriage weren't properly positioned like in the manual. I've only had mine a month and have taken almost everything apart because my trust for the assembly isn't there. I found it a great learning experience. Because of the issues I have run into and read on the forums, I will either be upgrading to bondtech extruder or go with direct drive mod. Good lucky everyone out there!
In defense of the people assembling them, there is a LOT of jostling in shipping and moving the printers. We bought ours in mostly assembled kits, actually raced my better 3/4 to build one! She was within 15 minutes of me!
I love my mini+ ! It has had its set of small issues like the hotend needing pressed back up tight for it wasn't from factory, and a few ptfe hotend replacements, but other then that she's a beauty! I have a handle upgrade the prusa leg upgrades also! Enclosed in a printedsolid enclosure. Maintenance goes a long ways as does common knowledge of how to fix these amazing machines.
I am not sure what you mean the hotend needing to be pressed back up? was the break somehow loose from the heat sink? The PTFE tube is definitely a point of issue for some.. Hopefully there can be a set guideline for them soon!
@@3DMusketeers That's what i meant. The heatbreak needs loosened from the hotend and pressed back up, then tightened again. Mine came slightly low from the factory and I've seen time and time again the same issue on forums. Otherwise the mini is amazing!
Interesting! I will ask if a buddy is experiencing that.
@@3DMusketeers @Gabriel - We had the same thing happen on one of the minis at our school. It had a little gap that was revealed by a cold pull one day, but loosened it, held it up w/ a wrench, and then tightened it. Viola! It fixed our issues! It was pooling between the tube and the head.
Gabriel, do you have a link for the handle that you can print for the Prusa mini models? That looks sweet! We have 3-4 that "travel" in our school district to share w/ various schools/teachers, and that handle would be a sweet addition! :) Thanks!
thank you so much!
You're welcome! I hope it helped! Mini upgrade video coming soon to solve some issues! ;)
Love my mini
Same!
My Prusa Mini is printing fantastic! I couldn't believe some of the parts I made! The side walls looked like they were molded they were so smooth! I'm blown away, and it's always been awesome in putting out great prints! But it's slow compared to my Bambu Labs A1. But it's totally quiet and puts out great prints so I like it better than the A1.
Input shaping on the mini should have it right along speed wise..
@@3DMusketeers I looked into that and I updated my firmware but haven't figured out how to make it work. I'm happy with it being slow and totally silent, though so I figured I'd use my A1 if I want a fast print. I was blown away by the quality of the Mini! The side walls of some prints were flawlessly smooth! You could see absolutely no lines whatsoever, it looked like a molded part!
you have to add it as a printer in the menu for the slicer.
I took off the silicone sock I was using on the Mini and it works even better! I had a couple Kobra printers ruined because of silicone socks. The filament oozed out into the sock and then up into the wiring and created a big glob that prohibited the bed sensor from working and the printhead came down and crushed the bed and bent the rails. I had one print fail like that with the Mini so I took off the sock and it worked even better than before.
odd, we normally do not recommend removing a silicone sock, in fact we tell people to add them lol. If it oozed into the sock, it is likely to have oozed all over the hotend should the sock not be there.
@@3DMusketeers Well, the Prusa Mini didn't come with a sock. I don't know if they do now or if Prusa recommends one but my Kobras both came with a sock and had disasters because of them, IMO.
The silicone sock keeps the filament that oozes out close to the print head so it stays liquid as it climbs up through the sock and then coagulates above the printhead as it cools. Without the sock that wouldn't happen, it would just melt off.
I printed a long time with no silicone sock with no problems whatsoever on the Mini and now that I don't have one the prints are even better than ever!
D'artagnon and I love your logo.
Ha ha thanks! D'artagnon is actually the name of our full color printer! :) The story is not lost on us!
On my now just a week old Mini, I already modified it's extruder to be able to shed filament shavings and even clean itself, along with improving guiding with a short bit of PTFE.
This as an old and bad roll of ABS filament wreaked havoc on it, jamming up the gears and clogging the profile 4 times and even damaging the printed filament guide.
Of course the filament is the issue here, but as I saw problems with the extruder I could solve, which I am testing as I get familiar with the rest of the machine.
So far with this mod it's able to print this ABS, along with my old rolls of PLA and even PETG that have been open for over 3 years now, though besides some stringiness these still print fine.
For context, I have been in this hobby before with a self-built Hypercube, but took a 3 year break as maintaining that machine got too cumbersome.
Recently got back into it with this Mini, I absolutely love it but was disappointed at having to fix the extruder, along with a few other minor convenience thing.
Ofc my old pile of material is part of the issue, especially as it contains various budget brand rolls I tried out to find the best value.
Even still, deeply impressed with the print quality and how convenient the controls are.
Did not expect to start modding it this early on, but it is fun to do and the result works well for me.
I'm listing all the modifications I made to my Mini in the "Red's Prusa Mini Mods" collection on Printables, for those curious.
nice! Glad it was a filament issue and it was resolved!
@@3DMusketeers Jup, a filament issue, solved by modifying the printer :)
But given it can now handle pretty much any rubbish filament I have left over, it does make me more confident in running longer prints, knowing it won't start slipping or jam up.
Though... my improvised feeder profile cleaner might wear it down over time, which I'll notice if it happens and know to replace the gear and consider whether I want to keep it.
I will have to take a look!
Thanks for this- I have been recently having extrusion problems- will purge but eventually not extrude. Then you have to unload, load, purge and still problems. Some gear marks on the filament after it fails. Did some cold pulls and adjusted the idler tension screw flush without filament… maybe a problem with the motor pinion?
definitely check it.. Wont hurt to look
My Mini+ seems to have a lot of issues with inconsistent layer lines. It started out perfect then progressively got worse as time went on.
Still trying to figure it out, so I guess a video on that would be awesome .
Can you send me some photos? I have a theory but need to see what is going on.
@@dangerous8333 We know some people with these issues, it seems to be the bowden system to blame with quite a few areas where you could have issues. We have 4 and other than one really hating filament sensors, I am not sure what else has gone wrong with ours, they are tanks. Great to take to client meetings lol.
I have a bunch of MINIs that run 24/7 and 90% of the time it's one of two things: 1) idler tension being too tight or too loose, or 2) PTFE tube in the hotend is not sufficiently seated.
Yep sounds about right.
Great video. Would you recommend the mini+ over the mk3s for a first printer? I guess I’m struggling in juggling the importance of build volume. Ender3 s1 does look enticing but I prefer the rigidity of the Prusa printers.
Personally, I do not think the MK3s is currently worth it. The Mini is a great machine and sure it is smaller, but cutting and gluing parts is easy enough when you get used to it. The MK3 platform is getting tired as well and we are expecting a MK4 or new midrange printer from Prusa eventually in the next few months.
@@3DMusketeers thanks. I’ve been reading about mk4 rumors too. However with the release of the XL, I’m doubting mk4 will be announced so soon. Mk3s might have an upgrade kit to mk4 which would be the only reason I’m considering. Thoughts?
The XL is basically 6 months out from actual printers in hands from what we can tell. The mini is clearly a test bed for the 32 bit controller, color screen, etc. We have both MK3s's and minis. While we do prefer to run the mk3s's, it is only because of their speed and ease of farm, given the filament loads from the top and not the bottom-side of the printer. One of our mini's is our travel printer and comes with me to meetings. It is a freaking champ.
At this point, unless we REALLY need it, we will not be buying more MK3s's and looking at more mini's or praying we can handle the surges until the XL shows up
The mini is a great printer. The 2 main downsides of the mini are: extremely low volumetric flow rate, no MMU2 support. Don’t underestimate how important those two factors are. Make sure you have or plan on having a printer with better volumetric flow, and you’ll probably want a printer with support for at least two materials; you don’t NEED either of these things, but you definitely want them at some point.
tl;dr it makes an amazing secondary printer.
@@v1Broadcaster We see 12mm/s3 out of the mini's hotend vs 15 out of a v6. Not much difference there. We find over certain speeds the minis resonate anyways. I think this makes a great first machine, but an even better second. We have no printers with MMU here, and have had no issues without it. Sure, it woudl be fun, but we would mainly want soluble supports, not multi colors, we can get that with actual painting, which may be less work so we hear! Although, we may be getting an MMU soon, so stay tuned!
Newbie to 3d overall. Waiting on my Mini to show up and trying to learn everything in the meantime, but that aside, is it ok to add threadlock to metal on metal screws to prevent back out over time, or is it just a follow up tightening during maintenance time? Also, I keep seeing Bondtech parts on a number of rigs,but have you used their heat break upgrade,or have you stuck with their stock heat break and what has your experience been with jams n clogs with stock vs upgrade? Thx n advance
We have not seen many issues with screws backing out personally. My minis are all stock (currently, wink wink) when it comes to their extruders and hotends. I have no issues. The main issues we all see are all about alignment of the PTFE tubes
I know this is an older video but would you recommend replacing rods when replacing bearings? I just got a mk4 and it put me in the mood to fix my old mk2s and the bed had issues moving. I want to eventually try and source everything to upgrade it to a mk3ish or whatever they call it and may get the improved rods you mentioned anyways. Thanks!
I would, yes. Why not.
Bought a mini prints day 1 no issues. Never had any problems, didn’t even have to change a single setting or anything only like 20ish prints so far so well see
Over time, like your car, it will need maintenance. Glad it is working well so far though!
@@3DMusketeers *insert kenobi that’s why I am here meme*
Ha I’m back …
One more question: what is the right tension for the belts? Would be useful to see you adjusting them, too.
There's no easy way to show it. They want to be tight, but not too tight. I did tension both on the mini but I believe we cut the Y axis out of the video. It's something that is seldom needed, but good to know. We say, if it feels like a guitar string it's too tight, and if it is sagging it's too loose.
you can tune it like a string instrument with an app, just need to match the right frequency
Yep! Works well, I don't know the note off hand but I'm sure it's online somewhere.
How often do you go through and do all of this maintenance? And have you ever had the X-axis self test fail due to the extruder head being slightly difficult to move back and fourth and clunking a bit? What I mean by that is that it will move fine (still with some resistance potentially) and then it will suddenly catch in the same spot and thud? Can't for the life of me figure out what's going on with it. I'm going to tighten the gear attached to the x axis motor and try to get my belt a little more loose but if that doesn't work I'm not sure what will. Whatever the issue is is also causing layer shift as well. Any thoughts?
maybe once a month or so? Never had that issue, check your bearings. You can also check the rods for wear too. Sounds like it is bearing or rod related
I have had my Mini + for over a year and had great results. In the past few days however I am having a great deal of problems getting the filament to adhere to the print bed. I have cleaned the bed with dish soap and alcohol as recommended, as well as recalibrating the first layer multiple times. Currently set at -1.80 and still does not adhere. Any recommendations?
Scuff it up. A magic eraser (melamine foam) works great.
Did you attach a blue handle on the right hand side of the printer's pole? How did you attach it to the printer?
yep, T nuts :)
So I've had my Mini for a few weeks and yesterday the extruder started to squeak REALLY loud whenever it did a retraction move. I went through and did all the Prusa recommended maintenance via their support website, but I still am getting that obnoxiously loud squeak. Any ideas?
Check the bearings are clear. Could also be a bit of plastic stuck somewhere causing the squeak.
okay Grant when you put a sock on your mini did you have to do a PID tune or not and if so how do you do that on a mini?
Didnt touch it LOL
Just hand to clear a clog in my extruder today. It was odd, somehow the filament snapped and got clogged in the worst spot for a Bondtech IFS extruder, in the throat of the exit coupling. Some low, low heat gun and extra long needle nose pliers later and no problem. Still odd though.
Maybe it was a bit warm and stretched a bit when unloading?
The Atomic UV reactive neon green is pretty pliable compared to their other PETG offerings, that’s what jammed on me.
Huh.. I have some I'll have to check!
Can you do a video on how to level axis and stuff as my bed is closer to the nozzle on left and middle but further away on the right
Are you running the larger grid for the bed leveling sequence?
@@3DMusketeers no I’m just doing that first layer then doing a large 1 layer pattern.
It’s getting on my nerves some parts are perfect other parts not
make sure to run the larger bed leveling grid and more probe points, you can adjust it in the mini's screen I believe, although I could be wrong.. I know the MK3S can do it but I forget about the mini..
Check and make sure all your bed screws are properly torqued, they can work themselves out. Also make sure your bed probe is well fastened to the extruder and not wiggling around.
@@3DMusketeers ok I’ll try this thankyou
If you keep having issues, DM me on twitter or email us: youtube@3dmusketeers.com
What are the torque specs for the extruder? (In in/lbs I’d you have it) I have a small torque driver.
No clue.. I just tighten it some.. I am sure E3D has something on their site.. but I am not aware of it.
I had 2 Prusa Minis and the extruder was a nightmare to deal with! I could srtip, clean and reassemble the extruder in my sleep I had done it SO many times....constant feed issues! Even tried the upgraded Bondtech extruder still no joy. Sold them Minis and bought a second MK3S+ and it just humms away with little to no problem. Not a fan of bowden tube at this juncture, I'll stick with direct drive!
Yeah the bowden tube on the Mini seems to be it's crutch. I am not sure I agree with the brass connectors BUT they should not lose bite like the push to connect ones, however they can be overtightened which I think leads to this issue.
@@3DMusketeers I really wanted to love the mini...now looking at the Rat Rig V-Minion...similar to the mini but direct drive. Just not sure on the print quality. I use them for business so the print quality needs to be up to Prusa standards :)
I hear they are good, never owned one though!
Would you say the Mini is good for figures and miniatures? I have a CR-10 V2 atm and struggle trying those, lol. I am leaning towards a Prusa and love the price point of the mini. Reading others comments though makes me wonder on it's reliability.
How mini? Like 25mm?
I love all 4 of our minis, minimal issues. I will choose the mk3s's over the minis but that is a speed thing. The bowden system is a thing of issue though and we are still trying to get to the bottom of why it occurs..
@@3DMusketeers yes 25mm would be what i would like to do. Thanks for your reply i may research a bit more before i commit
Resin. You will want resin then. Unless you want to play with small nozzles, FDM has some limitations that resin really does not. Of course RESIN IS TOXIC, but if you take proper safety precautions you should be fine!
@@3DMusketeers I would love resin as quality is top notch but i live in a apartment so fumes could be of issue, lol Perhaps i could also ditch out a bit of extra money and get a i3? My first 3D Printer was a Flashforge Adventurer 3 and the quality was real good is a shame it broke down and i could never figure out a fix
They are not as offensive as people make them out to be.. Especially Siraya Tech's fast. It is not bad at all. You could easily have a window open and not smell it. The mess though, that can be a pain..
Youo will still deal with the 0.4mm nozzle and going to something like a 0.25 or even 0.1 introduces a bunch of unknowns into the equation unfortunately. Where are you located? I can likely throw a model or 2 in our next resin print and get them shipped out so you can compare detail and such?
Where is the best place to get the silicone sock. I didn’t see it in the description.
Just updated the description, sorry! A standard V6 sock fits.
Lol, one of my dad’s favorite sayings when I was a kid; I’d ask him how tight I should torque a bolt or screw and he would reply, “German torque”. Huh? Good-en-tight.. (doesn’t work as well typing, but you get the idea if you say it out-loud with your bear German accent)
I get the joke :)
you manually move bed when printer is turned on.... nice
Yep. No risks when it's turned on as long as you have motors disabled. The risk comes when the printer is off.
@19:15 oooo....it's a bad girl 😆
Lol
My mini is bad. The Y belt wasn’t tight enough and still, I was getting bad prints. Though my bed is level, I need to print on one corner, limiting the size of my prints.
That seems odd that it won't compensate.. how old is the mini?
How loose was the belt? Was it a full kit, mostly, or fully assembled?
@@3DMusketeers thanks for responding. I got it in April of this year. It wasn’t loose, I was able to tighten it still. Someone on the reddit channel said it shout be tight and over tightening it is better than the latter.
disagree. The tension from the factory is more than adequate. Overtightening can add a ton of pressure to the system. it should barely twang. YT wont let you put links here, but if you want, email us some photos of the prints and I can take a look at it all. I am guessing it may also be due to a dirty bed but we will have to see.
@@3DMusketeers I appreciate that. I will.
awesome.
What's the sock for?
Keeps the heat in and errant strands of plastic from sticking to the hotend! Also, looks better ;)
Seeing the detail, I have to say, is there any way 3D printer owners can have your people drop by to do all this for them? You need a gig app for printer maintenance workers.
If there happens to be a maker geek in their area I am sure. Many of us are few and far between meaning that unless you got a hookup, videos like this may be your only resource.
You wanna tell me I don't have to unmount all the machine for clean and put lubricant on the bars? Nice, I stuck because the machine make a bit of noise when I print and I'm a bit scared to take everythink apart.
Some noise is expected. If after the oiling she's still too noisy, time to re pack bearings.
extrusor bondtech prusa mini solution very good
Thanks
Watch the gantry. You don't want to twist the end of the gantry that much or tighten the end screws without checking your XZ skew... you might need to straighten it after this.
Source: I have 9 MINIs
They ran fine after that work, in fact that mini in the video is my travel mini that goes with me to client meetings. Runs like a swiss watch! Good to know though, the skew could DEFINITELY be an issue for sure!
How do you check the XZ skew? I've always worried about gantry twist, but don't know how to check it other than by eye.
How in the world do you not have more viewers
No clue really. I would guess bad titles and thumbnails lol. Feel free to share our videos out to whomever though, we would love to grow faster :)
@@dangerous8333 That does make sense. Quality doesn't necessarily mean anything when there is an overabundance of it. Kind of like how you can't start a gaming channel unless you find something really unique.
@@dangerous8333 Until the Voron community fixes their toxicity I am out. I was literally kicked from their discord when I asked a question. Myself and other creators have dealt with this.
I am not sure it is oversaturation really, but certainly a channel size thing. Being so small we are less likely to get recommended than an Uncle Jessy or a Tom3dp. There are only a few large creators out there, we are seeing what we can do though, it is never too late!
Minis great but the extruder strings a lot for me :s
What kind of settings and material are you running?
@@3DMusketeers I think it might be the extruder, I should probably take it apart like you did :s
My settings for prusament pla and matterhackers pla is
205 nozzle and 55 bed temp..
Strings Everytime
try cutting down those temps first. Maybe 200 or even 195. Let me know how that works!
@@3DMusketeers thank you!! I'm definitely going to lower temps first and try to see how it comes out
sure! Let me know how it goes!
Just for the record, you can't wrench anything with pliers wrenching requires a wrench. LMFAO. Great video.
Not with that attitude! ;)
Don't do what he does at 20:08
These two screws tigthen the x axis belt and are not structural screws.
The x axis belt is tensioned at the motor last I checked. Considering it's been running like a champ once we did it, I'd hedge it's okay, just don't go too much
You know I love when people like you throw crap out there and people praise you for it. those screw you turned on the very end of the x axis will actually move the x axis up down of the bed surface if you bothered to read the manual would have known this and not have showed people to tweak those with making sure they are still level with the bed.
It's exactly what they are for and they should not be loose..
Next time, you might want to consider keeping it in good printer shape. No matter how SHIP SHAPE you make it, it's not going to float...
With enough foam ANYTHING floats lol.
gheeeeey
huh?
pls pronounce it prusha
I do now.,