TO SEE THIS LOCK COMPARED TO THE DX1000, LIGHTLOK X1 AND X3 AND ABUS SUPER EXTREME 2500, WATCH THE 'BEST MOTORCYCLE LOCKS' VIDEO HERE th-cam.com/video/JVqNCv_p7Ug/w-d-xo.html
Hey howzit? Have you ever tried using one of those hydraulic rebar pliers for cutting tests? I'd really like to see a video on that. My old boss at the locksmith shop used them.
I know you already destroyed it…. But I would like to see if the lock would outlast a battery powered angle grinder…. Plug in types are usually stronger, and most bike thieves usually don’t have access to an outlet. Just super curious, thanks!
I am massively impressed. That plus an alarm that goes off if the bike is moved gives you plenty of time to get to your bike and start smashing skulls.
Ha ha. That never really happens though. Most bike thieves are tooled up so you have to be careful. The biggest way to embarrass and scare a bike thieve is exposing WHO THEY ARE. And uploading it to social media. That will frighten them alot more than you trying to attack or abuse them.
@@fender1000100 Yep agreed, saw a group stealing a bike in London once, there were five of them on three scooters, all tooled up and all shouting at us lot to keep our distance, they went after a girl who was filming them (We did block them from getting at her) and laughed at the guy calling the police. I guess we could have mobbed them but I'm not risking getting stabbed for someone else's bike and probably wouldn't even if it was mine.
It's not just about the lock, it's also about placement, ie, usage. NEVER place any lock at the bottom of the bike touching the ground. It makes cutting/breaking much easier as there's a stable surface to cut against.
Good advice in theory, but the whole point is to discourage a thief from trying to move the bike easily in the first place as well, and how in the world is that accomplished by placeing the lock above 1 foot off the ground?
Watching you run that drill into the lock while using your hand as a backstop genuinely made me tense up a bit. No matter how impressed or confident you are about a lock, you probably shouldn’t do that again. Great job testing the lock, though. When I am in the market for a new lock, this one will likely top the list.
Got mine last week and it’s a beast. For anyone interested, you can get a 16mm Pragmasis chain around the silicone sleeve comfortably, 19mm will just about squeeze on but it will damage the silicone. 11mm and 13mm are a no go.
@@agvs Not stupid, I thought so too. But the 16mm has a 30mm internal link width and the the 19mm has 25mm (maybe 22mm?). The 16mm and 19mm chains aren’t much different in exterior link size, but due to the link thickness the 19mm has a smaller internal space.
Great information. I'm hoping Ferosafe and/or Proteus grinder-resistant chains are in development right now. They're SO BADLY needed. And obviously they'll have to be fitted with large end rings so they can be used with locks like the D1000. Because right now, these D1000's don't work with many chains. And those that do are still easily defeated with a grinder, save a few exceptions out there.
Excellent review John, I wish other reviewers would take the time to discuss the real-world attacks on locks (not a bloke in his shed with plenty of time and the lock in a vice) and put their money where their mouth is and actually destructively test. I know this review was base on motorcycles, but also very relevant to ebikes. I'm always impressed with how you present these reviews, and explain what you can and can't recreate yourself - very humble, but very well informed. Thanks for putting so much effort into helping the community!
In response to questions around smashing the spokes off a cast wheel, I just went out this morning and used the lump hammer on the 2012 Triumph Tiger Explorer 1200 wheel that I have for lock testing and couldn't smash it - all it did was dent it. A spoke that shatters easily would be a concern when riding and hitting pot-holes, and while a thief could angle-grind the spoke out if they can get the purchase on it, it's less likely than cutting a disc. And on some bikes, like the Tracer 9, you can get this around two cast spokes. All security will have some way around it - it's always about making it harder than they can be bothered with. For exclusive offers on a massive range of bike kit and events, visit www.bikesocial.co.uk/join All of BikeSocial's product and security tests: www.bennetts.co.uk/bikesocial... Link to the lock (not affiliated): hiplok.com/d1000/ Oh, and hit a thumbs-up on this post if you've noticed how many commenters clearly didn't watch the whole video (or even just the end), and keep blindly quoting LPL... And the people that don't seem to see this pinned comment, and still keep saying about the spoke!
How about sending one of these locks to the Lock Pick Lawyer. He will let us know how effective they are. I personally have never felt the need for more than locking the handlebars, and the occasional heavy cable lock if I leave my light bikes at the campground and go off in the truck.
@@Dave-sw2dm Did you read the comment you replied to here? Any security is better than none, but it really isn't a good idea to rely on the steering lock - they're easily defeated with one kick. Do please use your cable lock as that's a deterrent if they don't have tools.
@@raynic1173 There will always be a solution to anything - it comes down to defeating the tools most commonly used, and making it more hassle than the other bikes nearby. Sure, if a thief really wants a specific bike, and they come equipped with the necessary tools, at some point they'll get it. But loading the odds in your own favour makes a huge difference.
@@Dave-sw2dm Most thieving ****'s have not got lock picking skills at all, let alone to his level. The longer it takes you to secure your bike, the longer it will take for someone to take it, and therefore less likely the thieves will even try and steal it. If out and about where other bikes are, park near more expensive bikes, especially bikes with less security, yours is then pretty much 100% safe in that situation.
Good review John, that's a great lock ! I know there are people who will complain about the price but if you have a bike worth £10k or more then it's nothing compared to the cost of replacing the bike ! Some insurance companies are refusing to pay out if your bike was nicked and you didn't use good quality locks and I can see a time coming when they will insist on certain quality locks BEFORE they will insure you ! I live in an area that has experienced extremely high motorcycle thefts of the past few years but I use my bike everyday with no worries because I use adequate security wherever I park it ! I see bikes left in very risky areas with no locks at all, to a thief that's just begging to be stolen !
Ha... I did move my hand once it was getting to the bottom, so if it had gone through (it wouldn't, there a steel plate above that), it should have missed.
Another great test. The best security is the security you have with you, so for me it has to be convenient and tough. This looks like a great lock, and if they make one long enough to go around both sides of the swing arm, I’ll have one tomorrow. Until then it’s a disc lock on the front, a bike cover and if leaving in a town a second lock and chain o;the rear, ideally to something solid.
They might, but probably not. Once u(d)-locks get too large, they're open to various leverage attacks. Don't need to relive the car jack epidemic of the 80's! That said, why not just use this lock as a wheel/disc lock anyway? Or through your rim? Using a disc lock is practically not using anything at all, these days! Battery angle grinder can get through them so quickly, I'd just use the D1000.
I'm pretty sure a mains angle grinder would not be used out in the field🤔it would be a cordless type, so for that to take so long to break with a mains one is impressive👌good test as usual guy's 😉
Cheers! I use a mains grinder for consistency in all my testing - a battery one just isn't practical, so I treat it as a comparison benchmark. 06:57 Cheers, John
When scum are nicking high end bikes, they will come equipped with mains powered grinders. They’ll use a converter which are pretty cheap, especially against the rewards for theft. I used to have one for my portable fridge when we used to to go to the Alps with the kids. If you underestimate the criminals resilience and ingenuity, you’ll be sadly disappointed. Security is a question of time, as John stated. Given enough time, any security can be broken. However, the casual, or career thief, as opposed to the organised gangs, will move on to the next target. Multiple layers is what you need. The problem is securing and unsecuring your pride and joy can be a chore, especially if it’s peeing down with rain. At home, install cameras, these are cheap. Make sure you’ve got one facing the road to get number plates. Add garage alarms, battery are best, especially if you put a dummy box outside with a wire leading up. Alarm your bike, ground anchor it, and get a garage defender. Then get a tracker too. The only issue is, that security may flag something valuable to a thief. Away from home, park where there are plenty of people, CCTV cameras (not hard in digital policing mentality) if you chain your bike, keep the chain in the air. It might mean wrapping it several times, but it makes things harder. It’s like people who buy a £1000 phone, and then moan about paying a tenner for a case. If you’ve got a nice bike, don’t be a tight-arse! Layer your security, or get a hack which doesn’t matter if it gets nicked and keep your best one for Sunday ride outs.
I've got a 36v angle grinder with a diamond metal blade, I use it for cutting steel rebar all day long, it wouldn't have a problem with this lock. £400 worth of tool for a £5k bike seems like a reasonable investment for a crook
Id buy one if it could withstand my setup for work , 9.0 ah battery on milwaukee grinder with 1mm cutting discs. Fully charged battery and one disc . But hey ive got quick release disc nut so a couple of discs would be a quick pit stop. Really ! A real world test would satisfy me as a d lock is not a deterent and less educated crims are gonna have a go not knowing the extra effort this brand of lock needs to be defeated.
Great review! Looks like a lock that’s actually worth it’s salt. Look forward to them coming up with a bigger one that’ll fit on the GSA in future. Ps. You drilling towards your bare hand had my nerves going crazy lol!
Is there a test with a electric circle saw diamond cutter? And im curios about what type of disk they use in the angle grinder. That said ot seems really resistive compared to most locks o seen.
There is one thing that a lot of testers omit and that is if a thief has decided that it is to much hassle with drilling the lock and gives up then moves on to another motorcycle. Can the owner of said motorcycle who comes back to unlock his or her pride and joy do so? I meen after the iritual shock of finding their bike with a damaged lock can they use their lock key and unlock it in the usual way. Or worst case scenario resort to using techniques the thief was prepared to use!
It's a fair point. To be honest, an angle-grinder attack is the most likely, but a lock could be rendered inoperable after an attack. It could also be malicious - if a thief fills a lock barrel with glue, it could mean the rider potentially leaves the bike, making it possible to maybe attack when there are fewer witnesses. That's also why you should never leave an unused lock out; it can be disabled, meaning you have to leave the bike unlocked (don't park it there if this happens!). Ultimately, the benefits of locking a bike far outweigh the unlikely situation of having to get a mate or locksmith out to spend the time (and many discs and batteries in this case) getting it off. Cheers, John
And the size of it is perfect to attach to the pillion handles or somewhere else out of the way when riding. And if you keep your bike alarmed and GPS tracked this lock on top makes any bike just too much trouble to bother with. Yup getting this one for sure. Thankyou for thr great review.
I'm always impressed at the lengths you go to in your tests, it does look a tough bit of kit. My wife was shouting at the TV "don't drill towards your hand" I did tell her It'll be fine..... its made the edit!
If he had a sick sense of humour, he'd have filmed the introduction of the video with a large bandage on that hand and let us cringe as he drilled away! He could then pull off the bandage to an uninjured hand and say, "Ha, ha! Fooled you all!" That would have been perfect!
I noticed you ground through the top part, I’ve seen other reviews do it at the side, the question is have you tried grinding the bottom part where the key goes in?
Hi, can I ask , is it better to install a GPS tracker and put a sticker on the bike to maybe prevent theft in the first instance? Or is better to not warn a thief there is a tracker ??? Thanks in advance
Good question. If you warn them, they're more likely to look harder than ripping the seat off if they do take it, but maybe it'd put them off. I couldn't say to be honest - personally I wouldn't warm them. Cheers, John
FWIW, I use six inch cutoff wheels for my 4 inch grinder. You need to take the blade cover off, and there is some risk there I suppose but it works for me and it makes the grinder more useful because there are a lot of times where the extra cut depth is useful.
Great review, best lock review I have seen, did well v angle grinder, glad you mentioned LPL - thankfully he just picks locks for fun or we all would be screwed :)
It makes me laugh that because people see someone highly skilled picking a lock in controlled conditions, they think every scally on the street is going to do that. I've tried to contact LPL a few times now but with no joy. Sadly, it can be quite detrimental to have people believing that locks can be easily defeated as they don't bother buying them, then wonder why they got their bike knicked!
That's a good call - by default you always attack the smaller area so I hadn't, but I'll give that a go. Thanks! John I'll update the written review when I've done it. www.bennetts.co.uk/bikesocial/reviews/products/security/motorcycle-chains-and-locks/hiplok-d1000-review-angle-grinder-resistant-lock
Sorry for taking so long to check this. I've now had a go at cutting the body and it's not weaker - the aluminium core eats through the disc. I can't post pics here, but if you go to the written review I have updated it. Cheers! John www.bennetts.co.uk/bikesocial/reviews/products/security/motorcycle-chains-and-locks/hiplok-d1000-review-angle-grinder-resistant-lock
Blimey... 11 minutes and 34 seconds and I'm £200 lighter =) Seriously, thanks for putting this on my radar. I'm new to biking and a lock was on my list of things to do. Thanks to this video... It's now a done deal. Thanks again. =)
That's great - I wouldn't recommend anything I hadn't tested properly. Do check out all our reviews at www.bennetts.co.uk/bikesocial/reviews/products. All the best, John
Could you do another test with the grinder on the remaining bits of the lock with a diamond metal cutting blade to see if there any difference in cutting time, would be interesting to see the results of that test 👍
@Olaoluwa Oyenuga Our testing, and Sold Secure's, is based on the actual attacks being carried out in the UK. You could use a plasma cutter, but that's not common on the street. It's always worth keeping an eye on though!
@Olaoluwa Oyenuga Have a read of this; it might help settle your mind. Cheers, John www.bennetts.co.uk/bikesocial/news-and-views/advice/biking-tips/how-to-stop-motorcycle-bike-being-stolen
This is a well put together video. You never mentioned temperature tolerances, resistance to extreme cold. Increasingly common is freezing the lock or chain then just bashing it into pieces. It's a 60 second job.
If you're referring to the "trick" of using an upside-down air duster, that's only about -15/-25c, I think the majority of attacks which succeed when this is used would have succeeded regardless as to my knowledge that's not really enough to cause brittle failure in steel. Carrying true cryogenic equipment is well outside the scope of motorcycle thieves.
Freeze testing gets expensive and I do it with plumber's freeze spray. I didn't try it here, but in all the testing I've done, it's only been an issue when I can get a good swing with a sledgehammer onto a makeshift anvil. Cheers, John
Well from a different brand, the *Litelok X3* website: "LITELOK X3 is armoured with Barronium™, a patent pending composite material that resists angle grinder attack by turning the grinder's energy and force in on itself. It offers at least 15 times more resistance than the best-selling, best-performing D-locks without adding any extra weight. It is permanently fused to a hardened fine-grain high-tensile steel core which provides protection against all other commonly used tools such as bolt croppers, cable cutters, long bars, hammers & chisels and *-40°C freeze spray."*
How is it even possible that you can remove the lock after cutting it only once at 7:33? The ends are rectangular. Therefore you can't bend those to the side. You would have to cut through the lock twice. Yet in your video one half just falls off. How is that possible? Not properly locked?
Great test…You should have tried it with a cordless grinder instead as it would of been even more realistic, that id expect would of made a huge difference in terms of even the batteries dying out quite quickly along with the discs. I’ve said for years I wish a security company would use some kind of other material other than metal for these kinds of grinder attacks. Seems this is the answer! Thanks for doing it 👍🏻
I use the mains grinder so I can directly compare the results of all the lock test I've done (I rarely put them on TH-cam), but yes - this makes life very difficult in the real world. Cheers, John
Hey John, did I see this correctly that you only had to do one cut and then half of the shackle just fell off? Shouldn't thieves have to do two cuts on these kind of locks?
If you can get the angle right and a clear swing, and it's a particularly thin one you might be able to start attacking it that way, but I'd use this on a rear wheel and also across two spokes if you can.
@@MrLittledirector It's going to depend on the material and access, but nothing's unbeatable. Hiplok is looking to expand in the motorcycle market so it'll be interesting to see what new versions come out too.
I just went out this morning and used the lump hammer on the 2012 Triumph Tiger Explorer 1200 wheel that I have for lock testing and couldn't smash it - all it did was dent it. A spoke that shatters easily would be a concern when riding and hitting pot-holes, and while a thief could angle-grind the spoke out if they can get the purchase on it, it's less likely than cutting a disc. All security will have some way around it - it's always about making it harder than they can be bothered with.
Great video appreciate your hard work. Would have liked to see a bottle jack attack or long lever attach as that is what theives seem to use against d locks here in NZ
At some point the locks have gotten so difficult to quickly defeat that you have to start wondering if the thing you're locking your bike TO isn't the weak link. Old job I had, the spot to park your bike at wasn't much sturdier than a bicycle rack... battery powered rotary would chew through that in seconds...
What about cryo attacks? Often steel that hard will break fairly easily if really cold, it's often better to have a very hard surface and slightly softer center
One hell of a test, my question would be what is the best way to secure a bike with a lock, ie where to locate it? I know it will depend on the bike and location where you park it, but would be good to know. Mate of mine had his bike nicked where 3 blokes in a van just picked it up and lifted it into the van, the alarm went off but people just stood and watched it happen!
How long did it take with 3 discs? I'm curious how it does against picking. According to consumer review I read it took 4 plates and 22 mins to cut trough. That's impressive, I won't be in a store that long. I guess it depends on the discs and how well you cut. But impressive nonetheless. Maybe I sohuld get one for my bicycle.
You're unlikely to get the thermal expansion and contraction to cause damage. You could anneal a lock if you had enough time, but again, security products are designed to deal with the techniques being used by criminals. I haven't tested thermite on this either.
@@bennettsbikesocial I'm not a thief, and I agree, any level of added protection is better than none, but I've heard they use a propane torch or MAP gas torch to heat, quench with some sort of aerosol propellant, then hit it with a hammer after it's been made brittle. I'd love to take one of my grinders to one of these, but not worth the expense. I read they were gonna be around $500+. I've seen people struggle with angle grinders to cut stuff, and having cut similar things, I'm like, You should be done in 10 seconds. Longest material I've run into with cutting, is tungsten. I'm a weldor.
@@josiahwright7114 The US price is in the video - it's not $500. You do realise this is an angle-grinder-resistant material, don't you? You will not cut this in 10 seconds.
@@bennettsbikesocial I didn't catch the price, but I was referring to info I'd heard a while back about the launch (kickstarter, I believe). Yes, I understand it's angle grinder resistant, and I saw it took much longer than 10 seconds for you to cut thru it, I was saying I've seen others take forever to cut thru things that I cut quickly. Some of it has to do with the wheels they use, and some of it is the grinder. Again, that's why I want to give it a try, because I could destroy a cutting wheel in several seconds doing things incorrectly just to prove a point. For instance, you've gotta press the lock against something so it's held firmly in place. Vibration kills abrasives, and prevents cutting. I wasn't looking to get into an argument about it. I'll look into the price, and if it's more reasonable, I'll get it as a business purchase, and record my findings, and post on TH-cam.
@@josiahwright7114 I totally agree - there are some fairly hopeless angle-grinder 'attacks' on TH-cam… this is my favourite: th-cam.com/video/aXHEbPzzDzE/w-d-xo.html but there are plenty of others. We don't publish cut times as it can make some people think locks are easy to cut. I also use the times as a benchmark, rather than an actual cut time that'd be achieved on the street. This took longer to cut than the thickest chains I've tested, and I certainly don't let up with cutting. I probably should have pointed out that lock testing is part of my job here at Bennetts insurance, and as a member of the International Association of Auto Theft Investigators, I'm lucky enough to have a lot of contact with police forces and other experts when it comes to attack testing. You can see the locks tested here: www.bennetts.co.uk/bikesocial/reviews/products/security Finally, here's my response to a four minute cut time by a 'professional thief' of a 7mm chain: th-cam.com/video/YKO1yudGVNg/w-d-xo.html Cheers, John
How does the locking part of this hold up against a grinder? I see so many tests with the U part, but the lack of anyone grinding near the lock cylinder has been a point of concern for me
Here's the full review: www.bennetts.co.uk/bikesocial/reviews/products/security/motorcycle-chains-and-locks/hiplok-d1000-review-angle-grinder-resistant-lock
So i have a question...if they use a drill and cant get the lock opened up and leave the bike while destroying the keyhole...how do we get that off ourself?
There's a new kid on the block, it's the just released Litelok X1 and the soon to be released (November 2022) Litelok X3. Both using a material called Baronium. Both are Sold Secure Diamond. And both are European ART4 certified. Have you heard of these locks? And if so, will you be testing them? Thanks in advance.
Yes - the plan was to do them ready for the release, but we're yet to get our hands on them and are waiting on an update. Once I have got them, you can expect a full review. Cheers!
What about diamond blades we cut steel mesh at work with them as carbon blades last 2 minutes whereas the diamond blade might be slower but doesn't wear out or shatter?
did you try unlocking the thing after your drill attack? I wonder about an unsuccessful lock attack resulting in you yourself being stuck unable to remove the thing!!
Hi, I love your thinking about breaking into a lock system with all the mentioned tools. I am not an expert in security or locks in any way, I am just average Joe thinking for a few moments. If I was going to steal something protected by fancy chains or locks, I would turn up with a small gas-cutting torch set (oxy-acetylene ) that will fit into almost any vehicle and will very quickly and silently cut anything you have shown and without any major damage to the bike.
It's a good point, but it's not equipment that's being reported by the police as typically used in thefts. Ultimately, anything that can be made can be destroyed in some way. All you can do is protect against the most likely scenario.
Hi John Can you answer what the pros and cons of the DX and the D are, i am thinking of getting the D1000 because its a bit smaller and maybe better for touring, but do you think i should wait and get the DX when it comes out on the market instead?
I have the Granit Extreme from ABUS How does it compare? Is it stronger? Is it more light weight? Cause it’s insane just less then 10 years ago the Granit Extreme was the strongest in the world. Then the ALTOR SAF released. Now the hiplok D1000?
Upgrading the lock is not a issue as most thief's arnt sharp enough to pick a lock. Every one if them carry a grinder so what stops a grinding wheel ? in my eyes aluminum in shrapnel form as a test i put alley bits and bobs down a bit of box section and packed it down and tried a grinder. It kept jamming and also broke the disc a few times.
You (correctly) advise against using this with spoked wheels and also point out the weakness of disk locks, but didn’t mention that a thief could cut the cast wheel spoke, (yes I know that damages the wheel, but do they care?). I hope they make this to fit around an average front tire. Abus Granite X Plus fits over my front wheel nicely.
Getting the angle grinder in to cut the spoke twice can be hard, but there's always a way to defeat anything - any security is about making your bike less desirable than the others.
What do you mean by having a chain too? I saw at the beginning you had a chain locked with the lock, but what if they cut through the chain, the locks useless, or what if they cut through the lock, the chains useless? Are you saying put this on the wheel, then use a chain to go through the bike as well? And what kind of chain?
You could have this on the wheel, then have a chain coming off this to secure the bike to something. That way they have to cut the chain to move the bike from the static object, then they'll still have more of a struggle to shift it unless this is cut too (which is extremely unlikely to be successful on the street).
What if you cut the spoke on the wheel to get the lock off the bike then all you need is a 2ndhand wheel for next to nothing, as I imagine it would ride away?...just a thought
If you can get the purchase to cut the spoke then yes, that's a possibility, but it's far less likely than having the brake disc cut. This is primarily a bicycle lock, but Hiplok is looking at larger options for those that want them. Also, you can get it around two spokes on some bikes like the Tracer 9, making it more hassle.
Question in application of use with a motorcycle wouldn't a chain also have to be used, and with that the chain becomes the weak point and the thief then just cuts the chain instead. Could anybody suggest a combo for this. The only thing i could think of is x2 hiplok linked together like a chain but this only really saves the wheel its attached to because lets be honest if its men in a van they'll just use normal tools remove either wheel then take the rest of the bike. I know very dramatic but totally an option for a serious thief.
Excellent review...many thanks. I am an ex biker (probably) and either I have been fantastically lucky or blessed because having had at least twelve bikes (I've sort of lost count) over around 30 years I have never had one stolen. Some had the Honda security but I've never even used any other type of lock, chain or alarm. A lot of those were when I lived in London too, parked in the road. Are bikes more likely to be stolen today? It would be interesting to see the stats.
Bike thefts are dropping due to high value car crime, but it's never been as bad as social media portrays. It's an echo-chamber of misery, but the fact is that theft isn't everywhere, but it does happen, so using any security significantly reduces the chances of being a victim. Cheers, John
Thanks for doing thit test. I feel much re-assured into investing in this lock for my bike. On a side note, you drilling into the lock with your hand in the back of the lock had me in suspense. In the moment I don't think you were realizing it but while editing the video was there an oh shit I can't believe I had my hand there moment?
Just a thought, can you get the angle grinder head in past the brake disc to cut the cast wheel spoke? Given the scrots don't give a shit they're likely to look at the easiest route as we know
Wouldnt buy a lock without watching your videos I bought my chains and locks based on the reviews you do, now I am a bennetts customer too! Would you be willing to do a video on the most effective ways to secure your bike? i.e. ground anchor through a wheel, through the frame etc. I have several locks and several chains but sometimes think is that the best way to do it?
Thanks very much! A good idea, but until then, does this help? www.bennetts.co.uk/bikesocial/reviews/products/security/motorcycle-chains-and-locks/how-to-use-your-motorcycle-chain-and-lock Cheers, John
For the drill test, do you use standard high speed steel bits? I have had much better success in drilling hardened steel stock using cobalt steel bits.
Good question. Yes - I just used a standard bit. The test was more about seeing if getting through the barrel would make the lock more vulnerable, but as it still didn't open it, using a faster drill wouldn't have helped. Cheers, John
thank you so much for buying this and testing it. do you have any video about Kryptonite new york fahgettaboutit lock (not chain) is it bolt cutter resistant?
I'm afraid we've never been able to get hold of Kryptonite kit. Do you mean the 14mm Kryptonite? If so, that will be bolt-cropper resistant at that size as you typically can't get it in the jaws of even a 42" set. I've tested kit that uses the same chain as Kryptonite, and it is good stuff. Cheers, John
How long did it take to cut through it with the angle grinder you used? I'm considering getting one but wondering whether to risk leaving it out of my sight for a coffee break or a lunch break
Apologies if this has been dealt with a million times before, but knowing the quantity of vehicles on the road all with unique wireless keys, why is it an engine ecu cannot be scrambled totally for ever unless 'the correct combination' is available?
Don't apologise - it's a sensible question. Theoretically many vehicle electronics are now paired to work together, but as Tom says, theft of vehicles - not just bikes - is often down to stripping for parts. Crime will go where there's a market and there's a BIG market for cheap spares online. A useless ECU won't matter when they can sell the rest of the parts. Cheers, John
A really good question! The Roundlock is cheaper and actually harder to cut than this, due to its design. I should stress that the D1000 excels as a stand-alone peice of portable security. The Roundlock's weakness when used as a disc lock is that the disc is easy to cut. But on the other hand it can be used as an exceptional lock on a chain. It's swings and roundabouts really. Cheers, John
TO SEE THIS LOCK COMPARED TO THE DX1000, LIGHTLOK X1 AND X3 AND ABUS SUPER EXTREME 2500, WATCH THE 'BEST MOTORCYCLE LOCKS' VIDEO HERE th-cam.com/video/JVqNCv_p7Ug/w-d-xo.html
Hey howzit? Have you ever tried using one of those hydraulic rebar pliers for cutting tests? I'd really like to see a video on that. My old boss at the locksmith shop used them.
I know you already destroyed it…. But I would like to see if the lock would outlast a battery powered angle grinder…. Plug in types are usually stronger, and most bike thieves usually don’t have access to an outlet.
Just super curious, thanks!
@@VeganDylan Try this video: th-cam.com/video/JVqNCv_p7Ug/w-d-xo.html
I am massively impressed. That plus an alarm that goes off if the bike is moved gives you plenty of time to get to your bike and start smashing skulls.
Ha ha. That never really happens though. Most bike thieves are tooled up so you have to be careful. The biggest way to embarrass and scare a bike thieve is exposing WHO THEY ARE. And uploading it to social media. That will frighten them alot more than you trying to attack or abuse them.
@@fender1000100 Yep agreed, saw a group stealing a bike in London once, there were five of them on three scooters, all tooled up and all shouting at us lot to keep our distance, they went after a girl who was filming them (We did block them from getting at her) and laughed at the guy calling the police. I guess we could have mobbed them but I'm not risking getting stabbed for someone else's bike and probably wouldn't even if it was mine.
@@fender1000100 Military grade pepper spray - tazer gun - knee to the ribs, knee to the balls, kneed to the ribs again - call the cops.
🤣🤣🤣😍
@@popuptoaster same tbh but if i ever get followed home I have a few tools ready
It's not just about the lock, it's also about placement, ie, usage. NEVER place any lock at the bottom of the bike touching the ground. It makes cutting/breaking much easier as there's a stable surface to cut against.
And it's where the lock is attached too which is usually the weakest point
Good advice in theory, but the whole point is to discourage a thief from trying to move the bike easily in the first place as well, and how in the world is that accomplished
by placeing the lock above 1 foot off the ground?
Never thought of that tbh good shout
Watching you run that drill into the lock while using your hand as a backstop genuinely made me tense up a bit. No matter how impressed or confident you are about a lock, you probably shouldn’t do that again.
Great job testing the lock, though. When I am in the market for a new lock, this one will likely top the list.
If you think amateurs are wildly unsafe using power tools, wait until you watch some motorcycle crash videos!
Got mine last week and it’s a beast. For anyone interested, you can get a 16mm Pragmasis chain around the silicone sleeve comfortably, 19mm will just about squeeze on but it will damage the silicone. 11mm and 13mm are a no go.
Maybe I’m going to say something very stupid but wouldn’t a 19mm chain fit more easily than a 16mm then?
@@agvs Not stupid, I thought so too. But the 16mm has a 30mm internal link width and the the 19mm has 25mm (maybe 22mm?). The 16mm and 19mm chains aren’t much different in exterior link size, but due to the link thickness the 19mm has a smaller internal space.
Great information.
I'm hoping Ferosafe and/or Proteus grinder-resistant chains are in development right now. They're SO BADLY needed. And obviously they'll have to be fitted with large end rings so they can be used with locks like the D1000. Because right now, these D1000's don't work with many chains. And those that do are still easily defeated with a grinder, save a few exceptions out there.
Excellent review John, I wish other reviewers would take the time to discuss the real-world attacks on locks (not a bloke in his shed with plenty of time and the lock in a vice) and put their money where their mouth is and actually destructively test. I know this review was base on motorcycles, but also very relevant to ebikes. I'm always impressed with how you present these reviews, and explain what you can and can't recreate yourself - very humble, but very well informed. Thanks for putting so much effort into helping the community!
Thanks SO much - really appreciated! Cheers, John
In response to questions around smashing the spokes off a cast wheel, I just went out this morning and used the lump hammer on the 2012 Triumph Tiger Explorer 1200 wheel that I have for lock testing and couldn't smash it - all it did was dent it. A spoke that shatters easily would be a concern when riding and hitting pot-holes, and while a thief could angle-grind the spoke out if they can get the purchase on it, it's less likely than cutting a disc. And on some bikes, like the Tracer 9, you can get this around two cast spokes. All security will have some way around it - it's always about making it harder than they can be bothered with.
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Link to the lock (not affiliated): hiplok.com/d1000/
Oh, and hit a thumbs-up on this post if you've noticed how many commenters clearly didn't watch the whole video (or even just the end), and keep blindly quoting LPL...
And the people that don't seem to see this pinned comment, and still keep saying about the spoke!
How about sending one of these locks to the Lock Pick Lawyer. He will let us know how effective they are. I personally have never felt the need for more than locking the handlebars, and the occasional heavy cable lock if I leave my light bikes at the campground and go off in the truck.
A breaker bar with a crescent wrench might snap that spoke with a bit of torque. Cast shouldn't like a twisting motion like that.
@@Dave-sw2dm Did you read the comment you replied to here? Any security is better than none, but it really isn't a good idea to rely on the steering lock - they're easily defeated with one kick. Do please use your cable lock as that's a deterrent if they don't have tools.
@@raynic1173 There will always be a solution to anything - it comes down to defeating the tools most commonly used, and making it more hassle than the other bikes nearby. Sure, if a thief really wants a specific bike, and they come equipped with the necessary tools, at some point they'll get it. But loading the odds in your own favour makes a huge difference.
@@Dave-sw2dm Most thieving ****'s have not got lock picking skills at all, let alone to his level. The longer it takes you to secure your bike, the longer it will take for someone to take it, and therefore less likely the thieves will even try and steal it. If out and about where other bikes are, park near more expensive bikes, especially bikes with less security, yours is then pretty much 100% safe in that situation.
Good review John, that's a great lock ! I know there are people who will complain about the price but if you have a bike worth £10k or more then it's nothing compared to the cost of replacing the bike ! Some insurance companies are refusing to pay out if your bike was nicked and you didn't use good quality locks and I can see a time coming when they will insist on certain quality locks BEFORE they will insure you !
I live in an area that has experienced extremely high motorcycle thefts of the past few years but I use my bike everyday with no worries because I use adequate security wherever I park it ! I see bikes left in very risky areas with no locks at all, to a thief that's just begging to be stolen !
Underwriters are very slow to take on new security products, sadly, but your attitude to using security is exactly right. All the best, John
I always love your thorough reviews John but you scared me drilling straight into your palm 😱. Looks like a good bit of kit 👍🏻
Was gonna say this!
Ha... I did move my hand once it was getting to the bottom, so if it had gone through (it wouldn't, there a steel plate above that), it should have missed.
@James watch reviews Yeah - my hands are like Batfink's wings anyway.
Admire your enthusiasm, but don't risk drilling a hole through your hand. That looked a bit terrifying.
@@dave8549 Ta, but I have a spare
Another great test. The best security is the security you have with you, so for me it has to be convenient and tough. This looks like a great lock, and if they make one long enough to go around both sides of the swing arm, I’ll have one tomorrow. Until then it’s a disc lock on the front, a bike cover and if leaving in a town a second lock and chain o;the rear, ideally to something solid.
Buy 2 and daisy-chain them.
They might, but probably not. Once u(d)-locks get too large, they're open to various leverage attacks. Don't need to relive the car jack epidemic of the 80's!
That said, why not just use this lock as a wheel/disc lock anyway? Or through your rim?
Using a disc lock is practically not using anything at all, these days! Battery angle grinder can get through them so quickly, I'd just use the D1000.
I'm pretty sure a mains angle grinder would not be used out in the field🤔it would be a cordless type, so for that to take so long to break with a mains one is impressive👌good test as usual guy's 😉
Cheers! I use a mains grinder for consistency in all my testing - a battery one just isn't practical, so I treat it as a comparison benchmark. 06:57 Cheers, John
When scum are nicking high end bikes, they will come equipped with mains powered grinders. They’ll use a converter which are pretty cheap, especially against the rewards for theft. I used to have one for my portable fridge when we used to to go to the Alps with the kids. If you underestimate the criminals resilience and ingenuity, you’ll be sadly disappointed.
Security is a question of time, as John stated. Given enough time, any security can be broken. However, the casual, or career thief, as opposed to the organised gangs, will move on to the next target. Multiple layers is what you need. The problem is securing and unsecuring your pride and joy can be a chore, especially if it’s peeing down with rain.
At home, install cameras, these are cheap. Make sure you’ve got one facing the road to get number plates. Add garage alarms, battery are best, especially if you put a dummy box outside with a wire leading up. Alarm your bike, ground anchor it, and get a garage defender. Then get a tracker too. The only issue is, that security may flag something valuable to a thief.
Away from home, park where there are plenty of people, CCTV cameras (not hard in digital policing mentality) if you chain your bike, keep the chain in the air. It might mean wrapping it several times, but it makes things harder. It’s like people who buy a £1000 phone, and then moan about paying a tenner for a case. If you’ve got a nice bike, don’t be a tight-arse! Layer your security, or get a hack which doesn’t matter if it gets nicked and keep your best one for Sunday ride outs.
That or they will use the angle grinder as a weapon to bystanders:
th-cam.com/video/Wpbtj3uCN8c/w-d-xo.html
who will steal a bike with a grinder that is too noisy
Cordless angle grinders are VERY battery hungry so even with a 5ah battery, this lock definitely is you best chance of keeping your bike
I've got a 36v angle grinder with a diamond metal blade, I use it for cutting steel rebar all day long, it wouldn't have a problem with this lock. £400 worth of tool for a £5k bike seems like a reasonable investment for a crook
That's why I like the ones that explode or emit poison gas when a grinder cuts half way thru 😊
@@chadkline4268 Police these days will end up arresting you for hurting the "poor" robber
@@chadkline4268 lol, take my money
Id buy one if it could withstand my setup for work , 9.0 ah battery on milwaukee grinder with 1mm cutting discs. Fully charged battery and one disc . But hey ive got quick release disc nut so a couple of discs would be a quick pit stop.
Really ! A real world test would satisfy me as a d lock is not a deterent and less educated crims are gonna have a go not knowing the extra effort this brand of lock needs to be defeated.
Great review! Looks like a lock that’s actually worth it’s salt. Look forward to them coming up with a bigger one that’ll fit on the GSA in future.
Ps. You drilling towards your bare hand had my nerves going crazy lol!
Just a heads up this is great for the GSA- you can pass it through the front wheel hub and disc
@@kenny4k ah cheers. Sold the GSA in the end though 😛.
Thanks. Will check it out when i go accessory shopping today.
One of the best TH-cam channels…straightforward and factual. Thank you.
Thanks SO much! All the best, John
Great channel my brother, I'm going to go out and buy a few of these fuckers
Is there a test with a electric circle saw diamond cutter? And im curios about what type of disk they use in the angle grinder. That said ot seems really resistive compared to most locks o seen.
Why did the lock split apart after a single cut? The lock shaft ends aren’t locked from rotating when engaged with the lock base?
There is one thing that a lot of testers omit and that is if a thief has decided that it is to much hassle with drilling the lock and gives up then moves on to another motorcycle.
Can the owner of said motorcycle who comes back to unlock his or her pride and joy do so? I meen after the iritual shock of finding their bike with a damaged lock can they use their lock key and unlock it in the usual way.
Or worst case scenario resort to using techniques the thief was prepared to use!
It's a fair point. To be honest, an angle-grinder attack is the most likely, but a lock could be rendered inoperable after an attack. It could also be malicious - if a thief fills a lock barrel with glue, it could mean the rider potentially leaves the bike, making it possible to maybe attack when there are fewer witnesses. That's also why you should never leave an unused lock out; it can be disabled, meaning you have to leave the bike unlocked (don't park it there if this happens!).
Ultimately, the benefits of locking a bike far outweigh the unlikely situation of having to get a mate or locksmith out to spend the time (and many discs and batteries in this case) getting it off. Cheers, John
And the size of it is perfect to attach to the pillion handles or somewhere else out of the way when riding. And if you keep your bike alarmed and GPS tracked this lock on top makes any bike just too much trouble to bother with. Yup getting this one for sure. Thankyou for thr great review.
Thanks for watching, and you're exactly right! Cheers, John
So if i hear someone saying "Reloading!" I will undersand what is happening. Great video.
I'm always impressed at the lengths you go to in your tests, it does look a tough bit of kit. My wife was shouting at the TV "don't drill towards your hand" I did tell her It'll be fine..... its made the edit!
You have an understanding wife to let you have me on the telly! Cheers, John
@@bennettsbikesocial She's a fan and a Street Triple owner. Cheers and take care
@@Banditmanuk Fantastic - all the very best to you both!
If he had a sick sense of humour, he'd have filmed the introduction of the video with a large bandage on that hand and let us cringe as he drilled away! He could then pull off the bandage to an uninjured hand and say, "Ha, ha! Fooled you all!"
That would have been perfect!
@@dudeonbike800 Unfortunately the fears and criticisms of tool use are always a surprise to me!
I noticed you ground through the top part, I’ve seen other reviews do it at the side, the question is have you tried grinding the bottom part where the key goes in?
Hi, can I ask , is it better to install a GPS tracker and put a sticker on the bike to maybe prevent theft in the first instance? Or is better to not warn a thief there is a tracker ??? Thanks in advance
Good question. If you warn them, they're more likely to look harder than ripping the seat off if they do take it, but maybe it'd put them off. I couldn't say to be honest - personally I wouldn't warm them. Cheers, John
Try a sawzall with carbide metal cutting blades. Cuts through grinder resistant alloys with ease.
Thats what I was thinking, I use a sawzalls everyday at work. With a good blade they get through everything really quickly.
FWIW, I use six inch cutoff wheels for my 4 inch grinder. You need to take the blade cover off, and there is some risk there I suppose but it works for me and it makes the grinder more useful because there are a lot of times where the extra cut depth is useful.
That is against the rules. No criminal would ever grind without the guard
Found your video since you mentioned LPL. Nice work. Air tags in the frame another barrier to help deter.
I would like to see it's resistance to a diamond cutting wheel.
Same
Spoiler alert, it'll cut it...eventually.
brilliant but drilling the lock wouldn't that stop the thief and you from unlocking it?
Great review, best lock review I have seen, did well v angle grinder, glad you mentioned LPL - thankfully he just picks locks for fun or we all would be screwed :)
It makes me laugh that because people see someone highly skilled picking a lock in controlled conditions, they think every scally on the street is going to do that. I've tried to contact LPL a few times now but with no joy. Sadly, it can be quite detrimental to have people believing that locks can be easily defeated as they don't bother buying them, then wonder why they got their bike knicked!
Just out of curiosity did you try cutting through the locking mechanism part of the lock? Would this be a weakened part of the lock as it's not solid?
Great review very informative but How would grinding the lock itself rather than the shackle fair?
That's a good call - by default you always attack the smaller area so I hadn't, but I'll give that a go. Thanks! John I'll update the written review when I've done it. www.bennetts.co.uk/bikesocial/reviews/products/security/motorcycle-chains-and-locks/hiplok-d1000-review-angle-grinder-resistant-lock
@@bennettsbikesocial brilliant, thank you!
Sorry for taking so long to check this. I've now had a go at cutting the body and it's not weaker - the aluminium core eats through the disc. I can't post pics here, but if you go to the written review I have updated it. Cheers! John www.bennetts.co.uk/bikesocial/reviews/products/security/motorcycle-chains-and-locks/hiplok-d1000-review-angle-grinder-resistant-lock
@@bennettsbikesocial you’re an absolute Legend, Thanks so much.
Blimey... 11 minutes and 34 seconds and I'm £200 lighter =) Seriously, thanks for putting this on my radar. I'm new to biking and a lock was on my list of things to do. Thanks to this video... It's now a done deal. Thanks again. =)
That's great - I wouldn't recommend anything I hadn't tested properly. Do check out all our reviews at www.bennetts.co.uk/bikesocial/reviews/products. All the best, John
Could you do another test with the grinder on the remaining bits of the lock with a diamond metal cutting blade to see if there any difference in cutting time, would be interesting to see the results of that test 👍
Will see what I can do. Cheers, John
@Olaoluwa Oyenuga Our testing, and Sold Secure's, is based on the actual attacks being carried out in the UK. You could use a plasma cutter, but that's not common on the street. It's always worth keeping an eye on though!
@Olaoluwa Oyenuga Have a read of this; it might help settle your mind. Cheers, John www.bennetts.co.uk/bikesocial/news-and-views/advice/biking-tips/how-to-stop-motorcycle-bike-being-stolen
I would want to see if there’s any ways to exploit the key way, would also like to see a diamond wheel used on it.
This is a well put together video. You never mentioned temperature tolerances, resistance to extreme cold. Increasingly common is freezing the lock or chain then just bashing it into pieces. It's a 60 second job.
If you're referring to the "trick" of using an upside-down air duster, that's only about -15/-25c, I think the majority of attacks which succeed when this is used would have succeeded regardless as to my knowledge that's not really enough to cause brittle failure in steel. Carrying true cryogenic equipment is well outside the scope of motorcycle thieves.
Freeze testing gets expensive and I do it with plumber's freeze spray. I didn't try it here, but in all the testing I've done, it's only been an issue when I can get a good swing with a sledgehammer onto a makeshift anvil. Cheers, John
Well from a different brand, the *Litelok X3* website:
"LITELOK X3 is armoured with Barronium™, a patent pending composite material that resists angle grinder attack by turning the grinder's energy and force in on itself. It offers at least 15 times more resistance than the best-selling, best-performing D-locks without adding any extra weight. It is permanently fused to a hardened fine-grain high-tensile steel core which provides protection against all other commonly used tools such as bolt croppers, cable cutters, long bars, hammers & chisels and *-40°C freeze spray."*
How is it even possible that you can remove the lock after cutting it only once at 7:33?
The ends are rectangular. Therefore you can't bend those to the side. You would have to cut through the lock twice.
Yet in your video one half just falls off. How is that possible? Not properly locked?
Great test…You should have tried it with a cordless grinder instead as it would of been even more realistic, that id expect would of made a huge difference in terms of even the batteries dying out quite quickly along with the discs. I’ve said for years I wish a security company would use some kind of other material other than metal for these kinds of grinder attacks. Seems this is the answer! Thanks for doing it 👍🏻
I use the mains grinder so I can directly compare the results of all the lock test I've done (I rarely put them on TH-cam), but yes - this makes life very difficult in the real world. Cheers, John
*would HAVE...! You're welcome.
Hey John, did I see this correctly that you only had to do one cut and then half of the shackle just fell off?
Shouldn't thieves have to do two cuts on these kind of locks?
That hand behind the grinder and with gloves, gave me a heart attack 😂. Amazing review
Nice but one hammer whack on one of the mag spokes and crack goes the wheel spoke and off comes the lock surely??
If you can get the angle right and a clear swing, and it's a particularly thin one you might be able to start attacking it that way, but I'd use this on a rear wheel and also across two spokes if you can.
Exactly what happened to my motorcycle. 20-30sec they took to hammer and crack the cast wheel spoke, removed the lock, and off they went.
@@MrLittledirector It's going to depend on the material and access, but nothing's unbeatable. Hiplok is looking to expand in the motorcycle market so it'll be interesting to see what new versions come out too.
I just went out this morning and used the lump hammer on the 2012 Triumph Tiger Explorer 1200 wheel that I have for lock testing and couldn't smash it - all it did was dent it. A spoke that shatters easily would be a concern when riding and hitting pot-holes, and while a thief could angle-grind the spoke out if they can get the purchase on it, it's less likely than cutting a disc. All security will have some way around it - it's always about making it harder than they can be bothered with.
Great video appreciate your hard work. Would have liked to see a bottle jack attack or long lever attach as that is what theives seem to use against d locks here in NZ
Doesn't happen in the UK though
At some point the locks have gotten so difficult to quickly defeat that you have to start wondering if the thing you're locking your bike TO isn't the weak link. Old job I had, the spot to park your bike at wasn't much sturdier than a bicycle rack... battery powered rotary would chew through that in seconds...
What about cryo attacks? Often steel that hard will break fairly easily if really cold, it's often better to have a very hard surface and slightly softer center
How do you get your bike home if an attempt to steal ends up damaging, but not defeating, the lock?
Impressive. Have you considered testing the Altor SAF lock? It's a super chunky lock that apparently melts onto angle grinders.
Too bulky to carry around but a cheaper price tag that altor lock
One hell of a test, my question would be what is the best way to secure a bike with a lock, ie where to locate it? I know it will depend on the bike and location where you park it, but would be good to know. Mate of mine had his bike nicked where 3 blokes in a van just picked it up and lifted it into the van, the alarm went off but people just stood and watched it happen!
How long did it take with 3 discs? I'm curious how it does against picking. According to consumer review I read it took 4 plates and 22 mins to cut trough. That's impressive, I won't be in a store that long. I guess it depends on the discs and how well you cut. But impressive nonetheless. Maybe I sohuld get one for my bicycle.
What about diamond blade on the angle grinder?
Has the LockpickingLawyer tested this one?😅
Exactly what I was thinking!
Thanks for the review. I’ll probably be getting a couple of these for my ebikes.
Hiya mate, good video, however, I think you used the hammer setting on the drill function which will blunt the end of the tip
What about heating it? Then quenching it. Like a propane torch followed by an inverted can of duster (like used for cleaning out keyboards).
You're unlikely to get the thermal expansion and contraction to cause damage. You could anneal a lock if you had enough time, but again, security products are designed to deal with the techniques being used by criminals. I haven't tested thermite on this either.
@@bennettsbikesocial I'm not a thief, and I agree, any level of added protection is better than none, but I've heard they use a propane torch or MAP gas torch to heat, quench with some sort of aerosol propellant, then hit it with a hammer after it's been made brittle. I'd love to take one of my grinders to one of these, but not worth the expense. I read they were gonna be around $500+. I've seen people struggle with angle grinders to cut stuff, and having cut similar things, I'm like, You should be done in 10 seconds. Longest material I've run into with cutting, is tungsten. I'm a weldor.
@@josiahwright7114 The US price is in the video - it's not $500. You do realise this is an angle-grinder-resistant material, don't you? You will not cut this in 10 seconds.
@@bennettsbikesocial I didn't catch the price, but I was referring to info I'd heard a while back about the launch (kickstarter, I believe). Yes, I understand it's angle grinder resistant, and I saw it took much longer than 10 seconds for you to cut thru it, I was saying I've seen others take forever to cut thru things that I cut quickly. Some of it has to do with the wheels they use, and some of it is the grinder. Again, that's why I want to give it a try, because I could destroy a cutting wheel in several seconds doing things incorrectly just to prove a point. For instance, you've gotta press the lock against something so it's held firmly in place. Vibration kills abrasives, and prevents cutting. I wasn't looking to get into an argument about it. I'll look into the price, and if it's more reasonable, I'll get it as a business purchase, and record my findings, and post on TH-cam.
@@josiahwright7114 I totally agree - there are some fairly hopeless angle-grinder 'attacks' on TH-cam… this is my favourite: th-cam.com/video/aXHEbPzzDzE/w-d-xo.html but there are plenty of others.
We don't publish cut times as it can make some people think locks are easy to cut. I also use the times as a benchmark, rather than an actual cut time that'd be achieved on the street.
This took longer to cut than the thickest chains I've tested, and I certainly don't let up with cutting.
I probably should have pointed out that lock testing is part of my job here at Bennetts insurance, and as a member of the International Association of Auto Theft Investigators, I'm lucky enough to have a lot of contact with police forces and other experts when it comes to attack testing. You can see the locks tested here: www.bennetts.co.uk/bikesocial/reviews/products/security
Finally, here's my response to a four minute cut time by a 'professional thief' of a 7mm chain: th-cam.com/video/YKO1yudGVNg/w-d-xo.html
Cheers, John
How does the locking part of this hold up against a grinder? I see so many tests with the U part, but the lack of anyone grinding near the lock cylinder has been a point of concern for me
Here's the full review: www.bennetts.co.uk/bikesocial/reviews/products/security/motorcycle-chains-and-locks/hiplok-d1000-review-angle-grinder-resistant-lock
How would you get it off after a drill attack ? Would you still have to cut it off yourself ?
So i have a question...if they use a drill and cant get the lock opened up and leave the bike while destroying the keyhole...how do we get that off ourself?
There's a new kid on the block, it's the just released Litelok X1 and the soon to be released (November 2022) Litelok X3.
Both using a material called Baronium. Both are Sold Secure Diamond. And both are European ART4 certified.
Have you heard of these locks? And if so, will you be testing them?
Thanks in advance.
Yes - the plan was to do them ready for the release, but we're yet to get our hands on them and are waiting on an update. Once I have got them, you can expect a full review. Cheers!
They should of made this 2 times thicker. also how does this hold up against diamond disks and an arc welder?
I thought to myself the other day ok it’s great against grinders but what about croppers? You have answered my question. Thank you!
No worries. That's what impressed me with Hiplok - they're not tying to dictate the tests that are done by people.
It would be interesting to compare against the Litelok X1, which is lighter and £100 less. Seems to be just as good, if not better.
Give me a week or so...
What about diamond blades we cut steel mesh at work with them as carbon blades last 2 minutes whereas the diamond blade might be slower but doesn't wear out or shatter?
Here you go th-cam.com/video/JVqNCv_p7Ug/w-d-xo.htmlsi=v6SOdTZWPM8LMNXs
did you try unlocking the thing after your drill attack? I wonder about an unsuccessful lock attack resulting in you yourself being stuck unable to remove the thing!!
Hi, I love your thinking about breaking into a lock system with all the mentioned tools. I am not an expert in security or locks in any way, I am just average Joe thinking for a few moments. If I was going to steal something protected by fancy chains or locks, I would turn up with a small gas-cutting torch set (oxy-acetylene ) that will fit into almost any vehicle and will very quickly and silently cut anything you have shown and without any major damage to the bike.
It's a good point, but it's not equipment that's being reported by the police as typically used in thefts. Ultimately, anything that can be made can be destroyed in some way. All you can do is protect against the most likely scenario.
just a question about the drilling part, did the key hole get damaged so that the key cannot unlock it? kr was it fine? thanks
Hi John
Can you answer what the pros and cons of the DX and the D are, i am thinking of getting the D1000 because its a bit smaller and maybe better for touring, but do you think i should wait and get the DX when it comes out on the market instead?
The DX is a lot more versatile due to its size. Putting it over the front wheel is more secure
I have the Granit Extreme from ABUS How does it compare? Is it stronger? Is it more light weight? Cause it’s insane just less then 10 years ago the Granit Extreme was the strongest in the world. Then the ALTOR SAF released. Now the hiplok D1000?
Upgrading the lock is not a issue as most thief's arnt sharp enough to pick a lock. Every one if them carry a grinder so what stops a grinding wheel ? in my eyes aluminum in shrapnel form as a test i put alley bits and bobs down a bit of box section and packed it down and tried a grinder. It kept jamming and also broke the disc a few times.
Beginner rider here, can't i use this lock past the frame of a svartpilen ?
You (correctly) advise against using this with spoked wheels and also point out the weakness of disk locks, but didn’t mention that a thief could cut the cast wheel spoke, (yes I know that damages the wheel, but do they care?). I hope they make this to fit around an average front tire. Abus Granite X Plus fits over my front wheel nicely.
Getting the angle grinder in to cut the spoke twice can be hard, but there's always a way to defeat anything - any security is about making your bike less desirable than the others.
What do you mean by having a chain too? I saw at the beginning you had a chain locked with the lock, but what if they cut through the chain, the locks useless, or what if they cut through the lock, the chains useless? Are you saying put this on the wheel, then use a chain to go through the bike as well? And what kind of chain?
You could have this on the wheel, then have a chain coming off this to secure the bike to something. That way they have to cut the chain to move the bike from the static object, then they'll still have more of a struggle to shift it unless this is cut too (which is extremely unlikely to be successful on the street).
@@bennettsbikesocial ahhh okay! Thank you! Awesome videos by the way, they informed me of knowledge I didn't know I needed! Ride safe!
I know this is an old post but I'm trying to understand why the lock came apart when you cut it in one place
What type of blade was used in the grinder?
Hello I am looking for a 12mm chain with a wide loop on the end so the chain can be extended, can you advise please?
What about a hydraulic bolt cutter or spreader?
What if you cut the spoke on the wheel to get the lock off the bike then all you need is a 2ndhand wheel for next to nothing, as I imagine it would ride away?...just a thought
If you can get the purchase to cut the spoke then yes, that's a possibility, but it's far less likely than having the brake disc cut. This is primarily a bicycle lock, but Hiplok is looking at larger options for those that want them. Also, you can get it around two spokes on some bikes like the Tracer 9, making it more hassle.
is there a slightly bigger size for ebikes with fat tyres and huge frames please?
Question in application of use with a motorcycle wouldn't a chain also have to be used, and with that the chain becomes the weak point and the thief then just cuts the chain instead.
Could anybody suggest a combo for this.
The only thing i could think of is x2 hiplok linked together like a chain but this only really saves the wheel its attached to because lets be honest if its men in a van they'll just use normal tools remove either wheel then take the rest of the bike. I know very dramatic but totally an option for a serious thief.
Can’t wait to get one really impressed very good review as always thanks for all your hard work in making these videos
Thanks! Cheers, John
Excellent review...many thanks. I am an ex biker (probably) and either I have been fantastically lucky or blessed because having had at least twelve bikes (I've sort of lost count) over around 30 years I have never had one stolen. Some had the Honda security but I've never even used any other type of lock, chain or alarm. A lot of those were when I lived in London too, parked in the road. Are bikes more likely to be stolen today? It would be interesting to see the stats.
Bike thefts are dropping due to high value car crime, but it's never been as bad as social media portrays. It's an echo-chamber of misery, but the fact is that theft isn't everywhere, but it does happen, so using any security significantly reduces the chances of being a victim. Cheers, John
I like this guys reviews, always honest and real, thanks very much
Thanks for watching! Cheers, John
You forget to mention, how long did it take for angle grinder to cut through
Sir I live in india..can you please suggest a good bike lock which is available in india ❤️
Anybody know when this Hiplok d1000 will actually be released to the public?
Thanks for doing thit test. I feel much re-assured into investing in this lock for my bike. On a side note, you drilling into the lock with your hand in the back of the lock had me in suspense. In the moment I don't think you were realizing it but while editing the video was there an oh shit I can't believe I had my hand there moment?
Once the drill was in the body of the lock, it wasn't going anywhere.
What chain size do I need if I want to thread a shackle in the hiplock
Are u sure you should be placing your hand in front of that dewalt?
Just a thought, can you get the angle grinder head in past the brake disc to cut the cast wheel spoke? Given the scrots don't give a shit they're likely to look at the easiest route as we know
Potentially yes, but as I said they're less likely to do this.
Have you tried picking this lock ? its a laser track key right ?
Wouldnt buy a lock without watching your videos I bought my chains and locks based on the reviews you do, now I am a bennetts customer too! Would you be willing to do a video on the most effective ways to secure your bike? i.e. ground anchor through a wheel, through the frame etc. I have several locks and several chains but sometimes think is that the best way to do it?
Thanks very much! A good idea, but until then, does this help? www.bennetts.co.uk/bikesocial/reviews/products/security/motorcycle-chains-and-locks/how-to-use-your-motorcycle-chain-and-lock Cheers, John
Thank you for this great video!. Could you please review the HIPLOK DXXL ?
Here you go... th-cam.com/video/k-uewbvII_c/w-d-xo.htmlsi=70JV7oE5rPh6zP7D
For the drill test, do you use standard high speed steel bits? I have had much better success in drilling hardened steel stock using cobalt steel bits.
Good question. Yes - I just used a standard bit. The test was more about seeing if getting through the barrel would make the lock more vulnerable, but as it still didn't open it, using a faster drill wouldn't have helped. Cheers, John
thank you so much for buying this and testing it. do you have any video about Kryptonite new york fahgettaboutit lock (not chain) is it bolt cutter resistant?
I'm afraid we've never been able to get hold of Kryptonite kit. Do you mean the 14mm Kryptonite? If so, that will be bolt-cropper resistant at that size as you typically can't get it in the jaws of even a 42" set. I've tested kit that uses the same chain as Kryptonite, and it is good stuff. Cheers, John
@@bennettsbikesocial Thank you John glad to hear your confirmation,the chain has 14mm with a 15mm shackle disk lock
Wow great video! any ideas which one is the best but with a chain?
Hopefully this'll help: www.bennetts.co.uk/bikesocial/reviews/products/security/motorcycle-chains-and-locks/how-to-choose-the-best-motorcycle-security
@@bennettsbikesocial thank you !
How long did it take to cut through it with the angle grinder you used? I'm considering getting one but wondering whether to risk leaving it out of my sight for a coffee break or a lunch break
It's harder to cut than any other device I've tested using an angle grinder.
Why there is any for sale on ebay?
It’s a shame they didn’t make it so when cut they’re only left with a blade width so have to do another cut to get it past the spokes etc
What about the lock it's self is it plastic or
Apologies if this has been dealt with a million times before, but knowing the quantity of vehicles on the road all with unique wireless keys, why is it an engine ecu cannot be scrambled totally for ever unless 'the correct combination' is available?
i think most of the time vehicles are stolen and stripped for parts so locking the ECU wouldnt really deter many thieves.
Don't apologise - it's a sensible question. Theoretically many vehicle electronics are now paired to work together, but as Tom says, theft of vehicles - not just bikes - is often down to stripping for parts. Crime will go where there's a market and there's a BIG market for cheap spares online. A useless ECU won't matter when they can sell the rest of the parts. Cheers, John
Any chance you could do a comparison test on radiator coolants v water or waterless coolant !!!
Hi great piece of testing but have you tested the Liteloks x etc...? they are supposed to take 4 or 5 grinders.
Yeah, that was me that did that test. th-cam.com/video/PUwjh8J4uec/w-d-xo.html
Great review! So would you prefer the Hiplok D1000 or the Pragmasis Round Lock?
A really good question! The Roundlock is cheaper and actually harder to cut than this, due to its design. I should stress that the D1000 excels as a stand-alone peice of portable security. The Roundlock's weakness when used as a disc lock is that the disc is easy to cut. But on the other hand it can be used as an exceptional lock on a chain. It's swings and roundabouts really. Cheers, John