The black paint you used was applied incorrectly, even it is a primer the red paint needed to be sanded down to allow any primer to bond to the surface. The reason why the black is coming off is because it had nothing to bond too. Incorrect painting leads to future problems.
I've only been informally trained in paint and body work for four months and even i can tell that your "professional black flat primer job" was garbage. I laid down three coats of primer after completing bodywork over my entire car (followed by feathered sanding before primer), and have had no such issues with my plasti dip. Don't blame the dip bro - Fonzie shows spray can primer followed by dip on their youtube channel for all to see - and I'll testify to it - dip over primer is groovy.
the same thing happened to me once when i used rattle can adhesive promotor on a pair of harley saddlebag lids which are made of hard plastic. i sprayed the promoter. let set per instructions. then i sprayed a single stage black urethane paint over it. when the urethan had dried the lids had pit marks like popped little bubbles on them. what i realized was the promoter solvents hadn't fully finished evaporating and when i applied the paint over it the promoter solvents simply floated to the surface leaving it looking like a bad case of acne. so i stripped them and used a rattle can grey primer then paint and it worked out fine. i looked at your hood and it looks like there were places that weren't sanded enough you can see some sheen on the red. also what type of paint did they use. lacquer, enamel, acrylic enamel, urethane or epoxy. what might have happened is whatever they used to thin the plasti dip could have caused the paint to lift. companies use like xylene and other harsh solvents and can react to paint. like softening or lifting. and it may not stick. almost like brushing paint stripper in place of the plasti dip. i'm looking to plastidip my brush guard on my suv. and plasti dip won't permanently adhere unless you use the plasti dip primer under it. there is also a glosser they make to supposedly make it glossy. but i read some bad reviews about it not being real glossy. im still debating the plasti dip. i think im going to use al,s bed liner. maybe. i want a rubber type product that stones and like road sand will just bounce off of. but. so far line x has been the only one thats like that. i have had line x in my old nissan p/u. no doubt its the cats meow. but their prices will bankrupt me doing it. more than i paid for the guard. so happy hunting. there are so may dam products and a lot don't give you any warnings, compatibility with what you put it over, etc. all they want is your bank account. and all they give is a crock full of excuses why it was us that screwed up. so they don't have to refund their products.
the black primer was probly rattle can or a job where someone either skipped or went too light on activator i would say so the primer which was put on a poorly preped surface aswell didnt properly harden. seems you got it worked out which is cool though
+WarriorPaxo He said it wasn't rattle can… The truth is sprayable plastidip is mostly xylene and thinning agents. With the wrong kind of paint it's just going to gobble it up.
the thinners base in the plasti dip reacted and made the matte black plyable again. i'd be checkin what sort of paint they put on your hood. looks like enamel to me?
It's not the product, it's your prep job. Horrible. Take some responsibility for your crappy work, and not blame others. Primer on a glossy finish? No wonder it came off so easily. It would have come off anyway, even without the plastic dip.
you can use plasti dip over primer with zero issues, the failure issue in this video was that the black paint was never sprayed correctly to begin with and the red painted surface below was also incorrectly prepped before the black was sprayed, so all in all you had good plasti dip sprayed onto a failed black paint... sorry if this sounds like im being rude but its the truth.
how long was the plasti dip on there? i plasti dipped a door with some primer on it and left it on for a week it came off fine. Have no idea what went wrong there maybe certain primers act differently. I did notice it was alot harder to peel off the parts of the door where there was primer underneath.
If you use a 1pak (paint without separate hardener, like an average spray can), the solvent will just mix and soften the coat below and destroy it. The previous layer doesn't cure as much as it just dries when the solvent evaporates. Spraying fresh solvent over it, is obviously going to melt it again. If you used a 2pak primer or paint, the hardener will cure it, and spraying solvent on, is not going to destroy it. SPraying 2 pak over 1 pak is a fail though, as it will have the same results as in the picture.
you have to scuff paint before applying more paint or primer or it will not stick well. I have done plenty of painting and i learned through trial and error.
I sanded and did primer. the plastic sip on my car will not come off . now I want to just sand it down enough to get paint to stick. shudve just used cans. slot cheaper
you were supposed to prime it with plasti-dip primer. It warns you for extreme conditions to use their primer. You should not use any other primer with paints ever! Only the recommended primer, or the same type as your paint. If the paint is acrylic, then the primer should be as well. It tells you right on the paint cans usually!
My question would be this: Why in the hell wouldn't you strip the hood all the way down to bare metal if you were paying a shop to shoot primer? Appears to me this guy may have gotten ripped off by the shop that prepped that hood before shooting primer. I could be wrong but it looks to me like there is nothing wrong with the Pasti-Dip.
If you dont have a clear coat on top it will cause the paint underneath to bond with the dip. Even a small thin layer of clear coat is not enough,. NO RATTLE CANS
I know plasti dip paid for this but this is obviously a horrible dip job and a horrible rattle can matte black spray job. It's obvious from the lack of prep work and the extreme thinness of the matte black paint. Combine that with not enough sanding on the red paint, clear coat still being evident in areas, the texture of a matte job and horrible dip job (you can see that the coverage is not even, it wasn't dipped in ideal conditions, and there certainly are not 5 coats on there, far too thin and peeling in chunks even where the black matte isn't peeling) all added up to this. You may blame this on plasti dip but it's more than clear that a lot of steps were skipped on this and this is nowhere near a professional spray or dip job.
I would suggest that in the future, you cal lPerformix, the manufacturer and discuss with them in advance, exactly what you plan to do. I don't use the product for cars but for other types of projects. Their technical support is pretty good. For the most part, they can tell you what products Plastidip will work with and what products it will not. I don't understand the reason for rude and nasty comments. Everyone makes mistakes and we learn from each other. He was already upset about what happened as would anyone here who posted a comment. It has generally been my experience that in life you get what you receive. Kindness with kindness.
Did you scuff the original red paint befor you primed? NOTHING sticks to an unscuffed clear coat.. That's the whole purpose of the clear coat.. Haha and you don't need to prime prior to plasti dipping unless you plan on a much more permanent application..
That sucks. I would take that car back to wherever you got it painted. Yeah the sanded the hood to paint it matte black but it's not going to stick unless you completely sand the paint off prime it then paint it. This isn't the plasti dips fault this is the fault of whoever painted the hood for you.
>Doesn't do any prep work besides washing the car >clear coat still over red paint >paints flat black over clear coated red paint >paints plasti-dip ADHESIVE over the black >DUH
Ive had that wrinkling happen with plasti dip its user error due to painting it outside in hear ot letting it be in heat before the plasti dip could fully dry and bond. Now as for the primer im a bit confused, your calling the matte black a primer???? either way thats not a very good sanding that was done to apply the matte black coat and ive seen many of my friends take their cars to places where they got what they thought was a good deal on a paint job and in turn wound up with something like chipping down the road due to the place they took it to being really cheap and irresponsible with their practice/business. Sorry to see that happen but you cant blame plasti dip. Ive done the primer then plasti dip deal and not had issues myself. Luckily it wasnt on a car but damn man i wish you the best of luck hopefully plasti dip might feel bad or maybe youll be able to get ahold of the guys that painted your car and theyll actually do something about it however unlikely that may be. All the best from a fellow car lover and plasti dipper :P
You did everything wrong... lol plus and even if they did sand properly and primered properly you plasti dipped incorrectly... you didnt wait for it to dry in between dips... nor did you spray light coats . espiecially for white
Wowwww sometimes people amaze me. That's why people shouldn't quit there day job. I mean honestly for real.... anyone can say they did something right, the results show the truth. Epic fail on his behalf
the red still has gloss to it, primer didnt have good adhesion, bad prep job
Was thinking that too
Yes the black was sprayed over unsanded red.
Same thoughts here
Also was wondering why you would paint your car black and the a few months later Plasti dip it white??
Lol yea....so ghetto
The black paint you used was applied incorrectly, even it is a primer the red paint needed to be sanded down to allow any primer to bond to the surface. The reason why the black is coming off is because it had nothing to bond too. Incorrect painting leads to future problems.
I've only been informally trained in paint and body work for four months and even i can tell that your "professional black flat primer job" was garbage. I laid down three coats of primer after completing bodywork over my entire car (followed by feathered sanding before primer), and have had no such issues with my plasti dip. Don't blame the dip bro - Fonzie shows spray can primer followed by dip on their youtube channel for all to see - and I'll testify to it - dip over primer is groovy.
the same thing happened to me once when i used rattle can adhesive promotor on a pair of harley saddlebag lids which are made of hard plastic. i sprayed the promoter. let set per instructions. then i sprayed a single stage black urethane paint over it. when the urethan had dried the lids had pit marks like popped little bubbles on them. what i realized was the promoter solvents hadn't fully finished evaporating and when i applied the paint over it the promoter solvents simply floated to the surface leaving it looking like a bad case of acne. so i stripped them and used a rattle can grey primer then paint and it worked out fine. i looked at your hood and it looks like there were places that weren't sanded enough you can see some sheen on the red. also what type of paint did they use. lacquer, enamel, acrylic enamel, urethane or epoxy. what might have happened is whatever they used to thin the plasti dip could have caused the paint to lift. companies use like xylene and other harsh solvents and can react to paint. like softening or lifting. and it may not stick. almost like brushing paint stripper in place of the plasti dip. i'm looking to plastidip my brush guard on my suv. and plasti dip won't permanently adhere unless you use the plasti dip primer under it. there is also a glosser they make to supposedly make it glossy. but i read some bad reviews about it not being real glossy. im still debating the plasti dip. i think im going to use al,s bed liner. maybe. i want a rubber type product that stones and like road sand will just bounce off of. but. so far line x has been the only one thats like that. i have had line x in my old nissan p/u. no doubt its the cats meow. but their prices will bankrupt me doing it. more than i paid for the guard. so happy hunting. there are so may dam products and a lot don't give you any warnings, compatibility with what you put it over, etc. all they want is your bank account. and all they give is a crock full of excuses why it was us that screwed up. so they don't have to refund their products.
the black primer was probly rattle can or a job where someone either skipped or went too light on activator i would say so the primer which was put on a poorly preped surface aswell didnt properly harden. seems you got it worked out which is cool though
+WarriorPaxo He said it wasn't rattle can…
The truth is sprayable plastidip is mostly xylene and thinning agents. With the wrong kind of paint it's just going to gobble it up.
the thinners base in the plasti dip reacted and made the matte black plyable again. i'd be checkin what sort of paint they put on your hood. looks like enamel to me?
Sorry buddy but it's not a problem with the plasti dip... It's your paint job.
It's not the product, it's your prep job. Horrible. Take some responsibility for your crappy work, and not blame others. Primer on a glossy finish? No wonder it came off so easily. It would have come off anyway, even without the plastic dip.
guess you people can't read huh? I had someone else do the prep, and like,a said many comments below the manufacture paid for the repaint
Why is there over spray on your quater pannell?
you can use plasti dip over primer with zero issues, the failure issue in this video was that the black paint was never sprayed correctly to begin with and the red painted surface below was also incorrectly prepped before the black was sprayed, so all in all you had good plasti dip sprayed onto a failed black paint... sorry if this sounds like im being rude but its the truth.
Hi, i am profesaional painter. Its easy to explain. Its a reaction of black matt paint to thiners, wich ypu mixing with plasti dip.
yea its a reaction of the plastidip solvent and the un-protected "raw" paint of your exposed black coat. so what did DYC do for you?
looks like the black is the problem didnt have adhesion to red and probably was water based primer,the red didnt look sanded at all
how long was the plasti dip on there? i plasti dipped a door with some primer on it and left it on for a week it came off fine. Have no idea what went wrong there maybe certain primers act differently. I did notice it was alot harder to peel off the parts of the door where there was primer underneath.
If you use a 1pak (paint without separate hardener, like an average spray can), the solvent will just mix and soften the coat below and destroy it. The previous layer doesn't cure as much as it just dries when the solvent evaporates. Spraying fresh solvent over it, is obviously going to melt it again. If you used a 2pak primer or paint, the hardener will cure it, and spraying solvent on, is not going to destroy it. SPraying 2 pak over 1 pak is a fail though, as it will have the same results as in the picture.
You didn’t sand prep the red.
if they sanded your hood there wouldnt have been red
you have to scuff paint before applying more paint or primer or it will not stick well. I have done plenty of painting and i learned through trial and error.
did you dip it while holding a flashlight? I mean, come on
I sanded and did primer. the plastic sip on my car will not come off . now I want to just sand it down enough to get paint to stick. shudve just used cans. slot cheaper
you were supposed to prime it with plasti-dip primer. It warns you for extreme conditions to use their primer. You should not use any other primer with paints ever! Only the recommended primer, or the same type as your paint. If the paint is acrylic, then the primer should be as well. It tells you right on the paint cans usually!
My question would be this: Why in the hell wouldn't you strip the hood all the way down to bare metal if you were paying a shop to shoot primer? Appears to me this guy may have gotten ripped off by the shop that prepped that hood before shooting primer. I could be wrong but it looks to me like there is nothing wrong with the Pasti-Dip.
If you dont have a clear coat on top it will cause the paint underneath to bond with the dip. Even a small thin layer of clear coat is not enough,. NO RATTLE CANS
I know plasti dip paid for this but this is obviously a horrible dip job and a horrible rattle can matte black spray job. It's obvious from the lack of prep work and the extreme thinness of the matte black paint. Combine that with not enough sanding on the red paint, clear coat still being evident in areas, the texture of a matte job and horrible dip job (you can see that the coverage is not even, it wasn't dipped in ideal conditions, and there certainly are not 5 coats on there, far too thin and peeling in chunks even where the black matte isn't peeling) all added up to this.
You may blame this on plasti dip but it's more than clear that a lot of steps were skipped on this and this is nowhere near a professional spray or dip job.
I would suggest that in the future, you cal lPerformix, the manufacturer and discuss with them in advance, exactly what you plan to do. I don't use the product for cars but for other types of projects. Their technical support is pretty good. For the most part, they can tell you what products Plastidip will work with and what products it will not.
I don't understand the reason for rude and nasty comments. Everyone makes mistakes and we learn from each other. He was already upset about what happened as would anyone here who posted a comment. It has generally been my experience that in life you get what you receive. Kindness with kindness.
Looks like your prep for the black paint was a Lil shabby and it didn't adhere right
Did you scuff the original red paint befor you primed? NOTHING sticks to an unscuffed clear coat.. That's the whole purpose of the clear coat.. Haha and you don't need to prime prior to plasti dipping unless you plan on a much more permanent application..
Plasti Dip should go right onto your sanded paint Surface after using the pre Plasti Dip surface preparer.
Should've put topcoat on your matte black
Well your primer is on top of another pain job. Primer I beleive sticks best to bare metal. And plasti dip adheres to primer really well.
Sounds like prep job was bad
That sucks. I would take that car back to wherever you got it painted. Yeah the sanded the hood to paint it matte black but it's not going to stick unless you completely sand the paint off prime it then paint it. This isn't the plasti dips fault this is the fault of whoever painted the hood for you.
>Doesn't do any prep work besides washing the car
>clear coat still over red paint
>paints flat black over clear coated red paint
>paints plasti-dip ADHESIVE over the black
>DUH
+Kinkhorse lol riiiiight!
Probly due to the type of primer that was used more than likely could have been a lacquer based primer, lacquer an plastic never mix lol
Ive had that wrinkling happen with plasti dip its user error due to painting it outside in hear ot letting it be in heat before the plasti dip could fully dry and bond. Now as for the primer im a bit confused, your calling the matte black a primer???? either way thats not a very good sanding that was done to apply the matte black coat and ive seen many of my friends take their cars to places where they got what they thought was a good deal on a paint job and in turn wound up with something like chipping down the road due to the place they took it to being really cheap and irresponsible with their practice/business. Sorry to see that happen but you cant blame plasti dip. Ive done the primer then plasti dip deal and not had issues myself. Luckily it wasnt on a car but damn man i wish you the best of luck hopefully plasti dip might feel bad or maybe youll be able to get ahold of the guys that painted your car and theyll actually do something about it however unlikely that may be. All the best from a fellow car lover and plasti dipper :P
well if you ever need to remove primer you know what to do haha. but dont look at it as a fuck up, look at it as a oppertunity
What do you expect, get a real paint job, you expecting a lot more then the plasti dip can offer. Get a real paint job and critique that dude...
What did I just witness?
What just happened?
that was definitely bad prep work. dyc paid for it? it looks like it came out of a can. I've never seen plastidip done right come out like that
this just seems like you did something wrong
You did everything wrong... lol plus and even if they did sand properly and primered properly you plasti dipped incorrectly... you didnt wait for it to dry in between dips... nor did you spray light coats . espiecially for white
if you can paint or even rattle can paint just use paint don't waste your time with a plastic dip it its a waste
didn't prep the red surface. gotta cratch the shit outa that original coat. lucky you didn't paint that primer or you'd be out way more $$$
they did not make a very good job with that black matte
wow. thank you for sving me
Wowwww sometimes people amaze me. That's why people shouldn't quit there day job. I mean honestly for real.... anyone can say they did something right, the results show the truth. Epic fail on his behalf
Hahaha that problem wasn’t the plastidip the problem was the crap paint job
Lol
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