Creality K1C - Flagship Carbon Fiber Printer
ฝัง
- เผยแพร่เมื่อ 22 พ.ค. 2024
- Improved K1 Print Profiles for Creality Print and OrcaSlicer (Fixed VFAs): / improved-k1-97125971
Creality K1C: shareasale.com/r.cfm?b=201599...
Buy the K1 on Amazon: amzn.to/3JTepL0
K1 Max: shareasale.com/r.cfm?b=237420...
K1 MAX-use code TIER50 to save extra $50!
This video description contains affiliate links. I earn a commission on qualifying sales made using that link.
Creality provided the K1C free of charge.
My Store: nathansellsrobots.com
Patreon: / nathanbuildsrobots
Discord Channel: / discord
Podcast: www.perfectfirstlayer.com
Word Salad. In this video I will see how the K1 Max compares to the P1P. K1 Max vs K1. Creality K1 Max vs Bambu Lab P1S P1P X1C AMS Combo Ender 5 S1 3D printer review Testing
Time Codes
0:00 Unboxing
2:40 K1 vs K1C
3:18 Stepper Motor Change
3:53 Extruder Latch
4:41 Build Plate Nozzle Wiper
5:11 UncleJesseyProof Hinge
5:37 Cable Chain Change
7:20 Power Up
8:38 What the C stands for
9:52 Initial Setup
11:34 First Tests
15:40 Web Browser Interface
19:04 Sound Level testing
21:51 Benchy Finished
22:29 Additional Print Tests
25:24 Print Time Lapse 1
26:48 PETG VFA Test Prints
30:20 Print Time Lapse 2
31:41 PA-CF Heat Creep Jam
34:00 Unicorn Annihilation
35:30 MicroSwiss FlowTech Hotend
37:03 Hotend Teardown
38:59 Ceramic Hotend Spacers
41:29 Obstructed Fan
43:25 The C is a Lie
45:15 Final Thoughts
47:57 Why CF Nylon is the only thing that matters
49:15 K1 vs K1C Discussion
53:04 The Nozzle Issue
55:17 Final Observations
56:35 What the K1 series does well
57:44 Improved Print Profiles for Creality Print and OrcaSlicer
Improved K1 Print Profiles for Creality Print and OrcaSlicer (Fixed VFAs): / improved-k1-97125971 - วิทยาศาสตร์และเทคโนโลยี
I didn't realize how much I missed your videos until the uploads paused. Welcome back good sir.
I think I speak for everyone when I say. Thank god your safe... a few of us thought Bambu got to you after the last video😅
Actually, they did get me. I have been re-educated. This is Nathan's pro-bambu replacement clone.
Fr
They would probably feed me to a Panda if the had to re educate me .
@@NathanBuildsRobots Bambu Builds Robots lol
Still waiting for multicolor. Any updates?
Easiest way to induce heat creep is not letting the fan cool off the hotend completely after a print.
New filament isn’t coming in so old filament is cooking while the heater temps are transferring directly up into the heat sink due to the fan not being on to dissipate the heat. Do this enough times and your eventually if not immediately get a clog.
I point out something so obvious because you do that at least once in this video ( 21:35 ). I was even thinking “he’s gonna clog that nozzle not letting the hot end cool off”.
Yes, that is an issue. If you power down before it has cooled then you’ll have a nice surprise to take up some time and possibly spare parts when you switch it back on.
When you have a super-reliable machine that never requires power-cycling to escape weird intractable errors then this wouldn’t be as annoying. My AMS unit is cursed, though, so no such luck. 😾
(Did manage 19 hours of a 20 hour print yesterday / this morning, though. So I guess that 95% reliability now. Winding the filament in, stops at print-head, thinks a bit, winds back out, repeats about five times, then claims there is a blockage. Pull filament entirely, pull power from AMS then reapply, load filament, and it now works. I had about eight of these over 60 layers, so a nice semi-random problem.)
no buddy i see what you are saying but that is not heat creep.
That honest review was really a good one. No signs of hiding something or showing just the good sides. Keep that good work up👍
I was just thinking I hadn't seen anything new from you in a while. Welcome back!
Thank you!
That editing at around 13:10 got me, love it!
I'm printing a lot of CF-PLA on mine, and it's working flawlessly, an ancient roll of Proto-pasta, the original formulation, brittle as hell. Taking the reverse Bowden out of the cable chain is essential, added hinged risers for the lid to give it plenty of clearance.
A new hinge!!
Uncle Jessy proof hinge 🤣🤣🤣
Did you get your consultancy fee?
They should release a stripped down version called the S1P and then make a better version of that and call it the S1S
Funny that the first selling point in their ad is "CLOG FREE All-metal Extruder Kit".....
In my best Project Farm voice:
We're gonna test that!
C stands for Customer feedback revision! As Creality loves to substitute user testing and feedback part of the product design cycle with a new revision after a few months.
Oh finally a new video from my favorite 3D printing influencer.
The most honest 3d printer review on youtube!
Keep up the good work!
Greetings from Brazil
Hey! thank you for this review, just ordered mine yesterday as an upgrade for a 3 year old ender 3 pro. I think I really needed a change and this looked like a good fit for my needs. You gave me some hope and excitement for when I eventually get it some time soon!
The filament tube needs to come out of the cable chain to relieve that sharp angle.
great video thanks,
I did exactly that with my Bambu Lab P1S. I used kapton tape to build up the Bowden tube for a good fit to the guide-ring section at the top of the head.
Tried a couple of printed ‘guides’ for the Bowden, but they weren’t that successful.
For clogged nozzles I use a cheap rework station instead of a torch to avoid degrading the nozzle/heat-break. When used with the metal NoClogger (available on amazon) there's essentially no clog you cant remedy. Hope that helps in the future, & great vid!
I had a similarly bad clog on my K1C 1 week into owning it, spare nozzles are also not available (probably for months), so I just turned off all the fans, turned the hotend all the way up and after waiting a couple of minutes to heatsoak the entire nozzle assembly I could just push the clog out the top with an old guitar string.
The whole extruder and nozzle construction is solid and pretty easily serviceable if you know what you're doing.
The most helpful and instructive review around. Thank you Nathan.
I have a k1 and I do like it. I fixed most of the small issues and also have it rooted and running stock klipper and fluidd now. I was excited for the new hot end but now am on the fence. I would say the best way to print carbon fiber nylon , petg etc is to use a 0.6mm nozzle. I had issues with heat creep and the nozzle getting plugged up when printing cf material. The only one I had no issues with was cf PLA when using a 0.4mm nozzle.
That's probably why they sent me a spool of CF-PLA. I'm going off script with possibly predictable results?
It's too bad you had issues with the nozzle. I was hoping you'd cover printing ASA or ABS with it. I've been printing a lot of ASA in my K1. I wrap it in blankets and use the bed to bring the internal temperature up to 50°C, then as it's printing it slowly creeps up to 60°C and I get beautiful ASA prints. However, the heat brake fan will fail at those temps.
Good to know that the K1 heat break fan can't take the heat of a pseudo heated chamber. I drape a clear 30 gallon trash bag over my Neptune 4 Pro and the 110 C bed gets the "chamber" temperature up to 55 C and ABS prints very well, but the little model light LED built into the hot end dimmed so much after 100 hours of printing ABS that it's now useless, but so far everything else has withstood the improvised heated build chamber on this open frame bed slinger.
Sound can't escape through very small gaps due to "wave guide beyond cutoff". That is if the opening is much smaller than the wavelength of the sound, the sound won't propagate through the opening. So high frequency noise might escape, but low frequency noise won't.
That is cool! I didn't know that.
I guess what I'm noticing is the higher frequency hissing noises and possibly stepper motor ringing leaking out through the smaller gaps.
A lot of mechanical noises is they are a broad spectrum noises, so it's a combination of lower and higher frequencies.
@@NathanBuildsRobots The term "wave guide beyond cutoff" actually refers to microwave electromagnetic waves, it's the reason why the microwaves can't go though the door of your microwave oven, thanks to the metal mesh in the glass. The same principle also applies to sound. Anyone building a ported speaker cabinet will run into this when sizing the port opening.
Probably already being said but remove the bowden tube out of the chain and you can even print carbon nylon out of the regular K1 series (with a nozzle change) i made a vid about it using the bondtech nozzles.
Alround a well needed update, thanks for sharing!
Glad you're back chill homie 😊
I think what causes your "VFA" is slicing from a STL (point cloud model) where arcs are basically polylines, and I think the print head is doing accel/decel at each line segment when cornering and therefore extruding more near the intersection. I would try feeding a Gcode file that uses geometeric arc interpolation (G02, G03) and see if the problem goes away.
Nathan! Thank you for bringing all these awesome videos to us!
I have a question if you could help me out, With all these new printers coming out, i remember your amazing review on the Ender 5 S1 and want to ask at its current reduced price(even cheaper refurbished!!) do you think the Ender 5 S1 is still viable? Being easily fixed and modded?
I'd rather get an Ender 3 V3 SE or KE.
There's not much point in having a cube printer if it doesn't come with an enclosure, at least thats what I think.
@@NathanBuildsRobots very true! Think its worth waiting for the Ender 3 V3? What would your price guess be for it?
Hey Nathan! Thanks for the upload. Question. Did Creality make any revisions for the extruder for the K1C?
I don't think so, but I didn't take it apart to check
You can set the preview images in Orca. You can choose between several file Formats and sizes. One will fit the X1C. Try .PNG and 256x256
You open browser tabs (23:12) makes me feel so happy.
I took my ptfe tube out of the closes holder on the cable chain to the print head in order to give it a easy bend into the extruder
yeah I would definitely do that for this printer, especially when printing stiff filaments
Could also print a former to limit the radius of the curve into the extruder
Damn, the title alone is brutal. Can't wait to watch it.
Hi Nathan, hope your well and the fight with this printer was not too a pain?
I just awhile ago on 31st December 2023, Got my 1st ever enclosed fast klipper 3D Printer the Qidi X-Plus-3. It been a great printer. But I had a big problem just last week where I left the printer doing a overnight print for the 1st time and woke up the next day to find that the model had un-stuck from the bed and was melted in the ball of death around the printing fast at 400 per second head. the ball was fully wrapped around the lower part of the hot end.
I stopped the printing, and had to spend about 30 minutes slowly hot gun heating the ball of now set melted white PLA and carefully poking it off.
I got it off and it had split the silicone sock and that had got partly stuck in the middle of that ball.
The thing is, I had the bed auto leveled fine and done a great z off set as the model before printed with zero problems so the leveling and off set must have been okay?
I got to now remove the hot end ceramic heater block and cooling fins and clean the rest of the melted PLA off them.
Qidi do have a 2nd hot end in the box of a Hardened nozzle hot end So I fit that for now!
Qidi are a great company for helping us so they said they will send me another normal copper hot end heater block unit.
Just a pain as the bed was clean and had fresh glue layer so odd indeed it failed. Anyway I love the speed and detailed printing my X-Plus -3 does just thought you like to wear about my issues?
Someone needs to add a sensor or switch that can detect that kind of error. Computer vision might be able to do it, but a dedicated Senator should be great because it would ideally be more reliable
If you have a look at the settings on the homepage of the touchscreen you have the option to adjust the fans either on and off or percentages of that,, I recently bought a k1 and it's very similar to the k1c
I remember buying X2 after watching your thorough review and it has served me well, lets see if I can resist getting this one.
@NathanBuildsRobots "K1 Bed Leveling Kit" on printables managed to get me bed down to 0.52mm variance. And it's a really quick print.
Thanks for the video. BTW are you planning to review when the FLSUN S1 and T1 comes out?
For me ... I couldn't care less about carbon fibre, but I love the updates for other filaments!
Agree. It's useless unless you get into the CF nylon like he said. I'm amazed at how many people just parrot the claims of filament manufacturers when it comes to CF infused filament.
@@meikgeik Dude, there is no magical relationship between PA (Nylon) and carbon fiber. If it makes PA filament stronger in ways, than it also does the same for PLA or others.
Do they no longer provide a needle that you can push up through the nozzle to clear it? The rod that you used it designed to push filament into the nozzle form the top like you used it, but it’s not for clearing clogs.
Ruthless like always. Keep up the good work👌.
19:30 ATF called, they asked for Form 4 and Form 1 for your printer enclosure
It's a fully semi automatic silencer
Finally your back, yes! We can use you way better at creality k1 line critics. Actuall change is posible!
So it definitely needs a better filament sensor that not only checks for the presence of filament but also whether it is still moving.
They changed the pulley size? It being Creality, that then makes me wonder whether they also corrected the position of the motor to ensure the belt path was still orthogonal to the moving X gantry? And that makes me realize that I have so far not seen anyone check whether the K1, K1 max and K1C have correct orthogonal belt paths (for the parts where it matters). Maybe a gap you could fill?
What I‘d like to see for all these Bambu Lab, Qidi, Creality CoreXY-printers, are 3rd party hotend assemblies that allow flexible nozzle changes using standard nozzles without requiring to screw or deal with cables. Just a smple mechanism that makes nozzle changes as fast as Formula 1 tire changes. This may be even provided by hobbyists with knowledge in mechanics and electrical engineering.
I am waiting on the BIQU Panda hot-end. It’s the E3D Revo hotend system adapted for the Bambu Lab machines. It’s certainly possible that there will be something made for the K1 series.
I have the Revo system on a (only slightly modified, only one careful owner, honest…) Ender 3. It is very good, with only having to mess with the z-offset a bit on nozzle-change. Using the nozzle to probe should make this an effortless option for the Bambu Lab machines.
How did the filament break in the bowden tube, but was still in the tube? wouldn't the extruder continue pulling the filament from the break? I think you got a clog and the filament broke from the constant flexing as the motion system continued on.
I think you're right. The filament had a dent in it from the filament grinding away at it. Not sure if it was a nozzle clog or heat creep that caused it, but either way, not good.
I suppose there is a possibility that it was bad filament that caused it as well.
Exactly what I was wondering. What I learned on my K1 Max is that the extruder gears get so hot that they will soften if not melt PLA filament. After a rushed change from an enclosed ASA print to Creality Hyper PLA the PLA filament melted inside the extruder. Once that happens, you can't make the extruder push out filament and the filament acts like a pin, preventing you from disassembling the extruder to clear the jam. Sucks.
I dont understand why they put that notch in the bottom of the door glass... Why not mount the screen at the top or at the very bottom below the door?
I like the cable chain improvement, but the rest of the stuff it seems my regular K1 is just as good if not better. My 3d printed hepa/activated carbon filter seems way better, my Triangle Labs "diamond like" nozzle seems way better -- and I can put a 0.6 on it if I want to print CF materials. You can just buy and trivially install the same "AI Cam" on the K1.
How much AI does it have though? :D
Nathan have you seen Vector 3D Teardown of the K1C. His looked very used and also he did not have an all metal gear set as Crealty describe. Your fan on yours also looked rather dirty as well. Have you checked your extruder gearset ? I have a review sample and I’m going to check mine the weekend. What’s rather odd is that some of these seem very used before being sent for reviews.
They are probably engineering or manufacturing test units. They would have run hundreds of hours on them before sending any machines out.
I returned a K1 after i did dimensional print tests, found 0.8-1.6% dimensional variance. For me that's a lot for mechanical parts. I was about to check the belt tension and square and immediately saw the belts didn't line up in parallel on the X gantry. And if we remember a2 + b2 = c2, that means the closer you get to either side the belt's pull on the tool head will move further from 1:1 the closer it gets to either pully.
Another thing that bothered me was the nozzle temps jumping +/-3c printing at max speed. The 4020 blower it has is impressively powerful, and about 3x as powerful as the standard 4020 blower (normally 0.8A and the K1's is 0.3A). But still got +/-1-2c at normal speeds of 200mm/s 3K accel when the fan was running far slower. I ran PID on the hotend about 5 times, patted my head and rubbed my tummy etc. I have another printer with a volcano hotend and klipper shows about +/-0.5% nozzle temp variance printing at 325mm/s with 4.5K accel. And the parts showed, on the K1 i did notice on parts that they would have glossy corners and small sections then matte on straight sides/faster motions. I would blame thermal mass on that, but idk because i returned it before i felt like tearing the whole nozzle apart.
I printed the benchy included on the USB, it came out nearly perfect.. SUPER impressive. I just couldn't rely on it for engineering parts. And i knew that going in, especially with long belt runs on Core-XY that lend to "inaccurate" travel
I'll check on the gantry, good catch
Is there a printer that is known for having little dimensional variance?
@@joeking433 all of them really, the belts have a small amount of stretch till they yield then tension raises significantly per unit "stretched" after that. (Edit) And if it's not perfectly square and tramed, that will compound. But! Where not running CNC/Milling machines... Soo, for the most part the 'plasticity' of what is printed can usually fit together just fine. I did get mine down to >0.05% in X, Y, and combined. Just as good as a CNC that hasn't been maintained 😁. One great tip I got from someone's video was to clock the linier bearings in a + position, so that the bearings ride on the axis. That noticeably got rid of a ton of slack
Just looked up position accuracy on Gates GT2 6mm belts, their doc shows 0.010in/0.3mm per 92 teeth on 20 grove pulleys @6.6lbs with a 200step motor.
*I always put mine to 7lbs as its enclosed and I imagine the rubber teeth get soft
@@MrHeHim What printer would you recommend for having little or no dimensional variance is what I meant.
@@joeking433 ohh, sorry. You can make most printers really accurate. I just know of three that have bad pulley positions, the K1, Ender V3 SE/KE, and Duplicator i3 I bought many years ago and still own. Which I had to design a new bed Y stepper bracket for.
If they don't have said design flaws, then it's just a matter of squaring the machine perfectly then tramming the bed. I don't think any of them will come perfectly square or with the perfect belt tension. But! If you put a gun to my head... Pre built PRUSA and Bambu. Bambu has a patent on the auto tensioning system on their printer, only drawback is the extra long belts Core-XY printers use will introduce less accurate positioning. BUT! Idk, I haven't compres them.
What I learned in sound pollution class is that human perception of sound is logarithmic, thats why every 10 point decibels increase multiplies the sound level by 10 times. Lets suppose the hole in the K1 door is 1/25 the doors size, you will have a 96% energy reduction in the sound waves, but in decibels it will be like 12 decibels less. Closing that little hole correctely may get to 99%, but it will be only another decibel.
Nice review, When can we expect the V3 SE Modder Board to be available for sale? It's very cool could think of a few possibilities.
Hello. I bought a Creality K1 hotend to upgrade my V3 SE, and I have a heatbreak from Polisi3d that is supposed to be better than the stock heatbreak in the K1. The only problem is the heatbreak is really hard to get out of the K1 ceramic hotend. Do you know how to remove the heatbreak from the hotend on the K1?
Shouldn't it come with a 0.6mm nozzle? If it's intended for use with CF infused filaments?
I have seen quite a few videos / info stating that you should use a 0.6mm or larger nozzle especially with high % of Cf.
I heard you were out at Luke's and took some footage - when will we be seeing that? I'm headed up there next month to pick up a Stablebot!
Nice, I'll be editing that video next, should be less than a week from now!
Hey there he is, Congratz on the K1C
Got mine in today. already 6 prints on it. All were great hyper pla prints. Only complaint is they lip needs to be higher (already found a riser to print) and I agree on the bowden tube. Overall very happy with it for only $549 us
Creality's US store does not have replacement nozzles for the K1C ! I asked in the store chat when/if they would be available and they had no idea !! This is a major problem!
IF you make a new standard nozzle you need a plan for rolling it out. hopefully they will have them in stock soon!
If this has been said already my apologies. Your x axis seems to be moving around much more freely on the rods than the k1 max does has there been changes within the tool head also bearings springs or such? Thanks
Could be the smaller motors requiring less torque to back drive. But none of my k1 printers are particularly hard to move. Maybe try cleaning them?
@@NathanBuildsRobots yeah I’ve done that even cleaned the grease Creality tells you to put on them off of them, and used a light 3n1 oil but no difference. Could be those larger wheels. Thanks for the response Nathan really enjoy your videos
Creality K1C vs Flashforge Adventurer 5M Pro with one to buy? Base on your reviews?
Ordered a K1C, wish I had seen this before I did...
Still no word on Spare Nozzles, I wonder if a Prusa Nozzle will fit.
Remove the bowden tube from the last buckle on the cable chain. Then the bend is correct. My original bowden tube actually got worn out after 100 h and snapped.
Just curious, I really don’t like proprietary parts at all but the newer printers all have a little bit of that in them. Do you know if it’s possible to put the old hot end/nozzle assembly in the newer version? Does the original version/microswiss mod (if/when it’s compatible with k1c) allow it to use a more standard nozzle?
Replacement nozzles are not available anywhere yet ! I asked in the creality store chat and they have no idea when/if they will be available. This is a major problem !!
Nathan, you look more like a scientist than an engineer.
You can reduce the speed of the fans in the slicer, I have my side blower fan at 40% max so it never sounds like a jet engine.
When clearing out the clog, why not heat up the metal rod to glowing red and then placing it down the heatbreak/nozzle instead of heating up the whole hotend?
That's a good idea
Thank you for so detailed and helpful review!
In the last video, I commented something along the lines of “if you disappear we know what happened”. Now you’re back, how was your “hiatus”? Any new thoughts regarding pandas?
Yes, I have formulated an excellent counterpoint to their philosophy. It goes:
“REEEEEEEEEEEEE”
meh, Rigor doesn't seem to be applied to testing Creality's 'improvements"? i get a similar feel about the A1 bed cord. It's a question i think many of us have about the longevity of proprietary stuff. Removing the bowden tube from the chain, and probably having a taller lid to accommodate a more gentle slope and remove the kink (not kink shaming). It's an easy mod to print an extender to set the lid on or newer iterations of the K1 can come with a taller lid. Thing is, it's such an easy fix that should have been already done, they knew the problem existed and it feels like they did a slap dash fix and didn't test it, which doesn't evoke confidence.
Great video man! Earned a sub! I may just pick up the K1 since it doesn't have the proprietary nozzle design. It's that or an A1 Mini/standard A1.
You can't get an A1 right now because they are dealing with a cable strain issue that is a potential fire hazard.
I saw that. Your video was how I learned about that also lol! Am I safe to just snag a K1? I have some bestbuy credit to use so it won't be $599. @NathanBuildsRobots
@@cagerage21 My K1C from Microcenter was only $539. Got it this week
I don’t even bother with the top cover or the PTFE tube. I hang my filament above and feed it through a 2 inch PTFE tube lol
Yeah I'm going to start doing that if I ever attempt CF nylon again.
@@NathanBuildsRobots - Any style of Bowden tube is a real drag when printing TPU. I won't buy a printer with a Bowden tube and I'd remove the reverse Bowden from a K1 and feed from above.
@@Liberty4Ever I tried printing TPU on my K1 without any PTFE tube, but the filament wasn't feeding into the extruder properly. So I just started using a really short piece and now I have no problems.
@@raf_the_riffer - Thanks for the TPU report on the K1. I'm seriously contemplating a K1 Max, mostly to print some larger ABS parts (possibly ASA-CF) for a new product but I'd also want to use it to print TPU parts.
Maybe a dumb question, but can the regular K1 or K1 Max not print Carbon? Do you need a different extruder and/or nozzle? If so, can you still print everything else?
Why not try the cleaned out nozzle/break? It would have been useful to know if clearing a glog like that would actually work.
Why do Creality users always need to print out mods to make the printer more usable or to fix serious bugs in hardware other manufacturers don't have? For 249,-€ you get a Creality printer with 6 years old technik. For 299,-€ you get a brand new Bambu Lab A1 mini with options to ASM Lite. And you don't need to print any mods for the A1 to make it usable :)
Because we are super users, un-like those with apple devices!
Thanks for your elaborate video. 34:00 maybe next time you could insert the nozzle in a separate heat block outside of the printer and hook it up a bench power supply, then you should easily be able to push the residual stuff through with that tool.
16:35 "Klipper like interface" Fluidd is Klipper just like Mainsail is, its just a bit different UI
I only speak "Creality print"
Replacing this channel's signature fan-ripping mods with burning nozzles is TIGHT ! I like the direction this is taking 😂
I still miss the throwing-over-the-balcony tantrums though. Pretty please ???
I'm gonna need a taller balcony
Burning nozzles is super easy, barely an inconvenience.
Orca slicer does have a print preview icon
The camera looks very crisp
Dude those "CREALITY" metal stickers have shreaded my fingers more than once... 99% chance I rip them off soon...
Lol sticker owies, that’s a new one 😂
exclude is cool. its on my bambu as well :) them be alot of tabs open there buddy ;)
also u should print some jaw grips for ur vice. metal on metal leaves marks.
I just got this one in and How do I remove the styrofoam from behin and below the build plate?
Nevermind, figured it out.
the amount of aliexpress tabs that are open 💀
Overall amazing review! I was thinking of buying myself a K1C, most other reviewers were bashing the printer for not being a Bambu or Prusa yet seemed to not be able to mention why. And all reviewers seem to think we have money to spare... I am slightly worried about network security with this new printer, its web interface is cool but insecure... and with political prejudice I am slightly worried for network security because Creality is situated in China, who don't have the cleanest track record when it comes to spying... I will put this printer on a separate network and hope for the best...
43:04 looks like you have the clogging where the heat sink isnt perforated all the way through for optimal cooling.
K1C i.e. "we rushed a product, used our customers as the testers and did some half baked changes". At least they kept their signature warped beds.
The bed isn't warped, just tilted. To fix I'd need to adjust the leadscrews, which they should be doing from the factory on a printer at this price point.
@@NathanBuildsRobots yea you're right, definitely tilted. I really wish the K1C was a bit more polished. I'm currently looking for a premium printer to replace my ender 3 s1 pro and I really don't want to have to go with an X1C 🤣. If I didn't need a good printer now, I would build a voron.
The fan is cooling both the PCB and the heat-break heat sink.
I think was really nice about bamboo printers is they don’t mount their screens on the bottom, so it prevents neck cramps……
How much time do you spend looking at the screen?!
I mounted my klipper screen at eye level because it takes very little time being hunched over before I get tight muscles and migraines. Some people have neck problems.@@NathanBuildsRobots
Well, now that you mention it, I guess not too much 🤔😂
My printer is on the table next to me as I'm seated at my computer. The display at the bottom of the printer is at eye level. Putting the display on top of the printer would force me to crane my neck up to see it, or stand up.
13:00 - best edit on youtube - 2024
😂😂😂😂 not even 5 minutes and you broke the door handle 😂😂😂
Where you been?! I’m not even here to see the printer anymore haha
Mission accomplished
Hey Nathan I just saw couple teardown videos where the creator is very upset about the fact that the extruder (gears) are not "all-metal" as it's claimed everywhere on the advertisement materials (all-metal extruder), what do you think about it? Could it be called all-metal when only the wheels that drive the filament are metal or it's something shady? I'd love to hear your take on it if it's something worth to talk about
Plastic gears are fine. You only need metal gears if you're going over 80C chamber temp. Are you going over 80C chamber temp?
OMG he is back!!
Would you suggest the k1c or the flashforge 5m pro? They are the same price for me.
I like the 5M pro more. Less issues.
There are some mods for the k1 out there if you’re into that but that drives the price up
@@NathanBuildsRobots mods for the k1c? Not k1. What kind of mods are you talking about?
@NathanBuildsRobots do you mean mods for the k1 or k1c? As I'm asking about the k1c and flashforge 5m pro, not the base k1.
Hello Nathan, does the printer have a heated chamber?
The K1 has a passively heated chamber. The heated bed slowly heats the enclosed chamber. It's obviously not as good as an actively heated chamber but it works fairly well for ABS, ASA, etc.
You'll have less problems if you put your printer on a solid table. $10 card table shaking around will screw things up quick.
I thought my table was pretty solid. It's not an optical bench or anything but it's pretty sturdy for a desk.
I was disappointed that Creality has not fixed the cable chain issue nor the PTFE tubing problem. I have noticed that most reviewers jump right into printing where I think it might be worth a few minutes explaining where the setup and calibrate information is for the product you’re reviewing, there are many posts from users that skip the setup and calibration then try to print with a $1.98 roll of filament.
The PA12-CF Nylon is something I won’t be using, not at $100 a kg. I already have both Creality K1 nozzle packs, 12 nozzles waiting to be used but I have not found a means to add any nozzles to the K1 in Creality Print and I know not what I’m doing to just start poking numbers into boxes, they (CS Creality) told me they are ‘working’ on completing the nozzles in Creality Print…
1. PTFE Filament tubing, remove the tubing from the cable chain, 90° turn in 4~6 inches, friction is your enemy. Purchase some Capricorn tubing, less friction.
2. Cable Chain, My K1 (1/3/2023) had two types of links in the chain, most were 45° folding, 4 were bidirectional 90°, remove those bidirectional links, place 2 of them at the rear chain mount and leave 2 out of the chain making it shorter by 2 links. Now when you move the head to the top left the cable chain is at its limit, when moved to the bottom left the chain now folds and does not bunch up and hit the extruder releasing it…. I have the JC raiser that I modified, added LED’s and 100mm to the raiser so that the Capricorn tubing can flop around. I tried to add a link to an image of the cable chain, YT doesn’t like that so I found out.
I looked at bambu before purchasing the K1, I will not buy from a thief, what would that make me?
@@jstro-hobbytech - I bought seven QIDI 3D printers because I'm a slow learner. I kept getting sucked in by the features and low price, but always got burned on proprietary parts that disappeared in a year when they went on to their next printer, and printers that were unreliable (needed a lot of maintenance) and difficult to maintain. I quit on QIDI before the X-Plus 3. I hope they're finally making reliable and maintainable printers and supporting them more than a year after the sale.
Love the Erev Shel Shoshanim background music...
Sorry for posting another comment but I got to the part of the video where you are questioning the two screws that hold the hotend in place,,, you might have a point about "canterleavering" if you are doing something seriously wrong with the tip of the printer and it's coming into contact with the workpiece or dragging into the build plate 🤔,,, I always thought you had to avoid the nozzle coming into contact with object's??
Hasnt even started printing and already repairing the door handle :D
People who bought previous version are like beta testers who paid full price? or they received upgrades or replaced to upgraded printer version for free?
im confused your worried about the dorr open gaps etc but the top is totally open.
The repeated shots of the print head going weeeeeep 😂.
Try running some Jabil 4535 PA+CF, it's the most abrasive filament I've ever seen.