Been a while since I tried Prusa link/connect as I went back to octopi as my camera wasn't picked up by the prusa software, but to connect Prusa slicer to your printer you need to click on the gear icon in the printer tab and enter your printer's IP address and the type of connection you're trying to make, link or connect.
The biggest thing with Prusa using 3D printed parts is the parts are open source and it allows for custom upgrades, with molded parts it’s much harder to do modifications. I know this from dealing with my K1 and needing to rip apart the glued gantry, an absolute nightmare. I’ve also had a better experience repairing the Prusa printers at my work than other machines I’ve needed to fix. Not to mention Prusa’s customer support is pretty good compared to a company like Creality.
Very true. I want to do a fan mod and it’s not going to be difficult at all to design parts for it since I have the CAD data and it’s already designed to be compatible with 3D printed parts. Also things like the non-planar printers and such are done on PRUSAs because it’s just easier to work with an open source architecture
If Prusa released a corexy that’s competitive in price and performance to K1 or P1S, it would be a no brainer for me. Unfortunately, quality and no data harvesting has its cost.
@@xsvforce3335 Regarding the pricing of the P1S and the K1, I have the impression that both manufacturers heavily subsidize their products to gain market share. Good quality Voron 2.4 kits often cost more and you have to assemble them yourself. Therefore, it is unlikely that a fully assembled corexy printer is so cheap.
@@xsvforce3335 - We shouldn't need to pay extra for privacy and security, but we do. Those features should be standard. Check out GrapheneOS as a cell phone operating system if you'd like less tracking and spyware.
My man went from TShirt to Turtleneck after just a little bit of owning a Prusa :D, Got all fancy on us! On a side note: Josef definitely seems like a class act. I'm glad he's on the proper side of 3d printing, vs the Bambu trash we are dealing with lately.
great review! I sold my Ender 5 and got the MK4 kit, I couldnt be happier, this is such a great machine now that input shaper is enabled. I look forward to your tear downs of this machine and any improvements you might come up with!
Had mine now for two months and it prints fantastic all the time and i think your right a little bit better part cooling would make the prints even better
Its nice to see that prusa is still delivering at their exact traget audience. They still provide the reliability tgey are known for, but that cost speed quality triangle is definitely letting you know where your money went. I have a mk3 that ive upgraded to mk3s+ over time and i tend to buy my asa a d flexibles from them still due to their filament consistency. If im gonna be using pla or petg i can deal with a more calue option but the more expensive performant filaments i dont wanna deal with the headache of dialling them in
Regarding the slight underextrusion: I noticed that Prusas Prusament profile is always a little underextruding since back when it was introduced - not only with Prusament. They never corrected that. This doesn't happen with the "Prusa PLA" profile in Prusa slicer. If you still use the Prusament profle just increase the extrusion multiplier by 1 percent and you are good. This solved most related issues for me
Great review, appreciate the details. Just a small note: to my knowledge the MK4 doesn't come with extra PEI Sheets, the buyer would have to pay extra for that. I believe they only sent you extras because this is a review unit.
The gummy bears are for the Kit versions of the printer. In the instructions manual you have instructions to take a certain number of gummy bears after certain steps so you don't pull out your hair when you are building your printer :D
I had a X1C after troubles and 2 months of back and fourth with their support I send it back.I have a MK4 now for little over a week now and it just works. I am using it with Prusa Connect and Ethernet. No issues and it just works out of the box with no issues and excelent results.
I have a brand new MK4 kit and I’m pumped to get it working- this will be my first printer so I’m real excited! I’m interested to see any mods you make for the printer (like the cooling fans you mentioned). New subscriber! :)
Hell yeah dude, got mine set up recently and it's my second printer and it blows everything I've used/seen out of the water, I hope you're having as much fun as I am! Cheers 🍻
That wifi setup is pretty rough in 2023. Also shocked they don't walk you through connecting it up to Prusa Slicer, especially since they already link you to an online guide. I'm also not a fan that they don't have onboard accelerometers for input shaping, and instead rely on a universal profile, and hope that it's close enough. Especially if the machine isn't on a very stable surface, that could cause major quality variances. Let alone assembly variation. Not a bad machine, and I can appreciate their open-source past, but for what they're charging, and the competition they're facing, they need to deliver more IMO. Their software team seems in especially rough shape. It took this long for input shaping in its current state to release widely, and the touchscreen still isn't functional... It feels like they're operating as two halves, with one not knowing what the other is up to.
FWIW, there is a connector on the main board for an accelerometer. So hopefully (and when I was at ERRF I was asking for this functionality) they will create a routine to generate one's own input shaping profile. Especially useful if someone adds significant weight to the hot end (bigger fans, copper heatblock, etc). Time will tell.
Thanks for the review, gotta give props to Prusa for the professionalism. Love Prusa's printed parts, genuinely the best and (probably) last RepRap machine on the market. Also this is by far the easiest Prusa printer to use from what I'm seeing. Those first layers are perfect, my Bambu isn't giving me first layers like this. Genuinely might make the Mk4 my next printer for my business.
about the under extrusion issue , you can use the prusament filament profile or generic pla filament profile , they have implemented preset linear advance prameters inside; and also , could you test the print with the same filament used in the cr-10 print ? in my experience , the galaxy black filament is good at hiding defects.
Glad to see you got one! I'm a firm believer you get what you pay for, some may think it's overpriced, but I love my MK4. I own Rolex and Seiko watches, same arguments happen with watches and cars for that matter.
@@FarazMKhan I guess that depends on who's asking. I reckon most people don't stop to think about the simple fact that many things are now built by people who don't use the products they produce. So a manufacturer of tech products that uses those products as a core element for production of product is a little special. Especially when they could just copy someone else's designs, but when developing innovative products there's no one else to do your testing for you.
I have a small farm of MK3S+ Bears, with some beefed up parts, better part cooling ducts, upgraded Einsy board and Pi housing boxes, etc. I wonder how the upgrade path for the Bear owners is going to shake out, really all we need is the MK4 effector assembly, 32bit MCU board and screen, then the motors. Might be more cost effective to just replace with an entire MK4, who knows. I haven't really dug into the MK4 BOM yet to determine.
Side note about Prusament here in the States. PrintedSolid carries Prusament in addition to their own in-house Jessie (which is another high-quality filament) and multiple other brands. I haven't price checked in a while, but I think the per spool price of Prusament at PrintedSolid is slightly higher than in the Prusa store, but that is because the shipping cost from the Czech Republic to the US is baked into the cost in the PrintedSolid price. Shipping over the Atlantic on a pallet is probably cheaper than individual spools so the cost+shipping is probably cheaper from PrintedSolid to the US. But I haven't price checked in a while.
Hey Nathan! Just picked up a P1S from microcenter . Having some minor issues with AMS retraction. Is it worth troubleshooting or just return it for new one ?
what printer to get depends on your priority. if you prioritise long term support and longevity of the printer itself, Prusa. If you want the absolute fastest and cutting edge technology Bambulab X1
Literally every company that is big sells your data just because mr. orange Printer doesn’t do It doesn’t mean it makes the printers better. I know a certain company that sells data yet makes a better printer not saying orangeies are bad it’s just better
You can connect directly to the printer locally! I use exclusively that... I don't like clouds! There's Prusa Link and Connect, one is the cloud one while the other is the local one, I don't remember which is which
Thanks for the video. Good review but the one thing that bothers me is the wifi hookup steps. I mean its 2024 and the steps to get this working on wifi is ancient. Its probably the only company that does it that way. Other than that, its a contender. My question is how does it compare to printing parts vs the Bambu X1C or the FLSUN S1? What print speeds can we expect and still have good quality - that whole time is money thing. Love to see you do mods on this and I would also like to see a review on the Prusa XL.
i believe the gummie bear is a reference to the first 3d printed bench prusa ever did back in the riprap days before benchie boat was a thing. it represents the 1000's of test prints that got prusa to the refigned design it is today
@@NathanBuildsRobots you are silly. You spent time going on and on about how the permit was better, and would have better extrusion with the pros versus the other.
Better to compare the printers with their own manufacturer’s filament, assuming the filament is of equal quality. The software will have the settings for their own filament dialled in correctly, so such a comparison will be closest to the experience for a new user.
I see printed parts as a bit of a positive, because they're essentially "eating their own dogfood" - using their own printers to make stuff for their own business, which means if their printers have quality problems, it will affect them directly so there's a big incentive to make sure they get it right. I've also noticed the Mk4 I have is really good at PETG - I imagine this is because PETG is the primary material for their printed parts.
Yep, even their mk3s printers were really good with PETG. We print parts at my work with their PETG and it has no issues at all because of how the printer was designed/tuned.
I'm thinking to start into 3D printing (for home use) and all the china options don't really convince me. I really like the Prusa and I'm currently thinking about two options. Buy an used MK3s+ and maybe upgrade upgrade later down the road or directly by an MK4. What would you reccoment?
Personally, I would buy an MK4 if the support was really important to me. Like, being able to talk with support and having a step-by-step guide on how to do anything on the printer- PRUSA is great for that and why it's more suitable for professional use. For home and hobby use, I think something like the Elegoo Neptune 4 or Ender 3 V3 is a much better deal, because the price difference is substantial. There is also the Wuxn WXR if you want to look at an american assembled brand.
@@NathanBuildsRobots Thx for teh fats response. I'm in Germany so no Wuxn. I'm looking for a good out of the box experience amd want just print. Service and repairability is also important for me. I also like the Idea of completely building the printer (rebuilt for upgrade). :-)
The cooling fan is sufficient, but the fan duct is not designed very good. On Printables you can find fanducts which cool from both sides. This mod (the only I have done) gives better overhangs.
On the question of whether it would be better to replace the printed parts with injection molded parts to make it cheaper. For injection molding, the parts would have to be redesigned. Injection molded parts typically have thin walls to handle shrinkage as the plastic cools. In addition, the parts must be easy to release from the mold, which affects the shape of the part. And the more complex the mold, the more expensive it is. What makes injection molding cheap is high volume. If you're making millions of parts, there's no question what's cheaper, but if you're only making a few thousand or maybe a hundred thousand, 3D printing can be cheaper.
Watching you chat about prusament after the announcement that they were moving some manufacturing to the US. I always like their filament, but obviously it’s a bit premium priced compared to all the Chinese brands. But one of the big reasons is because they use really premium Indio pellets. As it happens that company is based out of the Midwest in United States so they’ve been paying to have these 2000 pound bags shipped to Europe and then shipped back to the US in the form of finished filament. The Chinese companies are producing their own pellets so they only have to pay the shipping once and can trim their profits down, but sell the reels for nearly half the price. I think Prusa will be able to easily shaves some money off of the price in the US market. I did see that that company was opening facilities in Europe and Asia, though.
You have it wrong with the gummy bears. You buy the gummy bears and you get a free 3D printer. Prusa is the only candy vendor that I know of that does that.
Yes the network file copies are slow... Unfortunately slow... Not that it matters much for the time of most prints, but it does matter when you are waiting for that first layer to go down so you can move on to something else. As someone mentioned, you can absolutely 100% print directly from Prusaslicer to the machine.
I'm looking forward to you turning your mod mind and laser eyes on to the mk4... and thus bending it to your will!!! I am looking forward to your part cooling mod on the mk4 in particular.
You should make a video in Aurora Tech's style, with that soft plain tone and music, always have a good sleep after watching her video for 5 minutes before bedtime.
Sovol, the junior engineers of the 3d printing space, are trying... And so am I...I have to keep redesigning their molded parts because they couldn't be cheaper. They market that printer as a beginner printer because if you actually use it often, you will be stuck in an endless loop of broken cheap parts that need redesign because they were made for injection molding, not 3d printing. I have about 12 hours into redesigning their parts...tensioner pulley mount, Y axis rod mount, and a soon to be unveiled extruder mount that won't break when it decides to slam the bed...and also can accept Igus Drylin's. I should have just bought a Pruse cause sovol is manure...pure, steaming manure.
cant lie prusa quality is incredible. their printers are totally worth the price but my wallet is on sabbatical. you should get atom or sublime text for gcode editing. a generic USB C hub with SD/USB 3 A/etc is like 15 bucks and will make having a mac less of a pain
I've bought many USB-C hubs. They all get lost. My best approach so far has been to buy a dozen usb-c to usb-a adapters and lose them in different places so when I look for one it doesn't take too long to find one
Hey Nathan. Had to stop the video to write this as this is not the first time that happens, but please either get rid of the mirror on the back or put the monitor somewhere else not pointing to it, it's very distracting! Now back to the video!
Clearly the Mk4 needs a cooling solution like the Neptune 4 with its complete overkill quad-fan setup :) (Love the cooling on the Neptune 4, but it's high flow and high volume)
Good idea. Changing the mass of the toolhead might be a bad idea since the input shaper assumes a certain toolhead mass. It might be better to just add a big fan to the back
@@NathanBuildsRobots Could strap a row of 80 mm fans angled somewhat towards the build plate onto the Mk4, or go all fancy with a ducted setup like the N4. Not sure what would work best there, but at least fun will be had :)
i bought my first ever 3d printer less than 2 months ago, it was hard to decide what to get and prusa was right in the middle between the ( ready consumer level ) 3d printers and a fully DIY printer, so i chose the mk4 and was hit by the price and how hard its to get ( very late restocking and actually no delivery to where i live ), so i decided to get a voron instead, i was disappointed with it not having input shaping ready and the beta profile was good news, their prusament filament is amazing, the one you are using, wow.
You need to do a little tweaking to get your flow rate highly tuned, but once you get everything dialed in you’ll have no more issues. Especially when it comes to overhangs. I know I can trust my printer up to about 70° almost near 80 with no problems whatsoever. In fact, I was a bit shocked to see the front of your benchy bow. When it comes to flow control, prusa had alluded and it’s first podcast after the MK four was released that because of the way they have implemented load cells they would be able to actually feel the pressure and control flow perfectly in future updates
The tweaking part is true for any printer, I suppose. My MK4 printed great using Prusament (PLA, PETG and PC blend); you’d expect them to get the profiles for their own filament right. Benchies came out super clean. I also printed a bunch of stuff using Real PETG (a brand that’s readily available here) and that took me a good while to get right. Especially as the optimal extruder temp was at the high end of the manufacturers recommendation, and bed temp was well outside it. But once dialled in, the MK4 produces great prints.
hi, i just found a new printer: Peopoly Magneto X hearing your opinion would be quite interesting it has a new motion system stock klipper and connectivity to orca slicer
Cool. Thanks for doing this review. Yes please do a video about modifying the fan to a larger version. I would be interested to learn how to do that. (There is absolutely no way I would try it by myself without seeing it done first.) I have the Prusa I3 mk3s+, and it has been pretty awesome overall. Minor issues, but they are rare and sometimes attributed to cheap brittle filaments breaking. You are right about Prusa's documentation, it is nice to actually be able to read about the printer with good pics when the need arises.
I don’t agree to the security argument in LAN mode wrt. Bambu Lab. You can easily prevent any device to send data to the vendor by disabling this possibility in a gateway or router. And you can monitor the connections made using a network sniffer. If I don’t trust a vendor, I’d definitely use one of these methods. Did anyone ever detect that issue in LAN mode when using a Bambu Lab or other type of machine? What I agree to is that Prusa machines are secure and trustworthy.
Looks like a honest review. Only injection moulded plastic parts are not better than printed parts. 3D printing has advantages of more freedom in the form. Not all the printed parts are suitable for injection moulding. Injection moulding gives stronger parts, but that's not needed here. Prusa has a printfarm with their own printers. That makes it necessary to produce very reliable printers.
In the world of mass manufacturing, cheaper is always better. If you can make a set of MK4 parts for $0.40 per printer or $2.80 per printer, which manufacturing method would you choose?
@@NathanBuildsRobots For injection moulding you must make a mould first. Having a mould made can be very costly. Depending on de complexity it will cost you € 15.000 to € 50.000 per mould. Prusa sells a lot of printers, but not that much that the cost of a set of moulds would pay it selves back. So it is 40 cents per printer, plus a share in the cost of the moulds. They produce 3D printers and filament them selves so that is much cheaper as having to buy printers and filament. With injection moulding making a new iteration of a part is nearly impossible, with 3d printing you just put a new file in the list.
I'm confused why they didn't just put an accelerometer on the toolhead and printbed. It would have added some cost, but that is a known good way to do input shaping
@@twanheijkoop6753You can do a test print to determine the frequencies. In the Prusa Input shaper forum you can find a thread with gcode for the klipper test print.
@@martin525622 There is a connector on the MB for an accelerometer. Note, AN accelerometer... They haven't released the schematic and layout files for the MK4's Buddy board yet so I haven't been able to see what sort of interface the accelerometer that they support uses (and they haven't released info on what accelerometer they support)... If it is an analog signal, well only one accelerometer at a time. If it is I2C then there might be support for multiple accelerometers on one connector using different I2C addresses. I'm not worried about the lack of the PCB design files yet, they usually wait to sell a bunch of printers before putting the files that clones can use out on the internet.
a printer that prints good out of the box is a great idea, how ever my slightly modified ender 3 pro running clipper gives me much better results, community mods and tinkering is the best in my opinion, but this still a very good printer for non-tech savvy people.
Great video! My Prusa i3Mk3s+ has been my tried and true for years. Not in the place to upgrade to the MK4 just yet but what a lovely machine - I am definitely a sucker for the new screen and the upgraded hotend that would make non-planer printing more do-able than with the MK3 tool head.
I enjoyed watching your version of the review because it shows me why I sent back my Bambu P1P after months of fighting with them to fix it. And of course you pointed out almost every reason why I love prusa, even though they’re kind of a weird company Filament changes are quick, the print quality is astounding , you don’t really need an enclosure to print with advanced filaments, the support, if you ever need it It’s got a town size as well, but dollar for dollar I’d rather have better print quality than hyper fast prints from a company that just steals from open source
Best way to get your design stolen: Open source it PRUSA printers have a track record for loooong service lives. Lots of other printers are just thrown out after a while, and have unserviceable parts. Seems like this MK4 would run for 10 years with the right care.
PRUSA SHILL! j/k thx for the review. I shook Josef's hand at ERRF yesterday, but I didn't get promised a printer. The 5 toolhead XL is legit mesmerizing to watch in person.
Doesn't read or understand the instructions and settings then blames PRUSA. There are way too many reviewers on TH-cam that waste your time like this one.
Josef should have sent you an unassembled MK4 so you could expend all of your nerdy build inclinations on assembling the printer and you might be less inclined to mod a new printer right out of the box in a "review" video, as per your usual style. Then again, maybe he figured the more time you spent working on it, the MORE you'd want to mod it. 😛
The blower fan is a 5010 blower fan which is still more powerful than the stock 5015 blowers used on the Mk3 lineup in my experience, and definitely more powerful than the 4010 used on stock creality machines, but a LDO 5015 blower is still much more powerful than the MK4's 5010, maybe I will replace it.
I have buyed so many printers…Creality, Sovol, Artillery, Flsun, Kingroon, Bambulab, Anycubic, Flashforge 🤮, Tronxy 🤮🤮 and Prusa. Wich printers are still here without any modifications? Prusa and Bambulab! (Flsun SR with a lot of mods) I love my 2 Mk3S+ my Mini and the Bambulab P1P is a great printer with AMS!
I wonder how? Have not seen any guides or something online… also a shame you can’t replace the ESP with a raspberry pi… Don’t have a MK4… bit on the fence between qidi, bambu and prusa…
@@serdalo5035 I've not seen any guides yet either, but klipper has a config template for Prusa printers with the Buddy board (path is "config/generic-prusa-buddy.cfg"), and then you'd probably just have to follow the regular klipper setup guide. I haven't received my MK4 yet and when I do I'm not sure klipper will be worth the hassle.
Seems klipper isn't really ready for the MK4 yet (PR #6158 adding support for something clock related wasn't merged? I haven't really looked into it) so if it influences your decision on which printer to buy just keep in mind you'd probably have to do a fair bit of effort to get it working
Don’t really “need” klipper but looking at things like prusalink… I would miss klipper with Moonraker and Fluid…. Though choices 🤷🏽♀️ maybe just go for a Qidi X-max CoreXY is often “better” then a bed slinger
As a total noob to 3d printing, ended up going with an 'out-of-the-box' model from the competition. But knowing what I know now, it does not seem as intimidating. With pressure put on by Bambu Lab, I am hoping to see Prusa reply with greater innovation. I would like to own one of these machines, but they have to step up their game. Thanks for the unbiased preview. -another great video on your part.
Been a while since I tried Prusa link/connect as I went back to octopi as my camera wasn't picked up by the prusa software, but to connect Prusa slicer to your printer you need to click on the gear icon in the printer tab and enter your printer's IP address and the type of connection you're trying to make, link or connect.
Thanks for the awesome tip, will have to try that out
You can easily create a camera in Prusa connect with an esp32 and arduino. It's cheap and completely sufficient for monitoring.
The biggest thing with Prusa using 3D printed parts is the parts are open source and it allows for custom upgrades, with molded parts it’s much harder to do modifications.
I know this from dealing with my K1 and needing to rip apart the glued gantry, an absolute nightmare.
I’ve also had a better experience repairing the Prusa printers at my work than other machines I’ve needed to fix. Not to mention Prusa’s customer support is pretty good compared to a company like Creality.
Very true. I want to do a fan mod and it’s not going to be difficult at all to design parts for it since I have the CAD data and it’s already designed to be compatible with 3D printed parts. Also things like the non-planar printers and such are done on PRUSAs because it’s just easier to work with an open source architecture
If Prusa released a corexy that’s competitive in price and performance to K1 or P1S, it would be a no brainer for me. Unfortunately, quality and no data harvesting has its cost.
It seems to me that people think injection molding is superior because they go by looks, not practicality.
@@xsvforce3335 Regarding the pricing of the P1S and the K1, I have the impression that both manufacturers heavily subsidize their products to gain market share. Good quality Voron 2.4 kits often cost more and you have to assemble them yourself. Therefore, it is unlikely that a fully assembled corexy printer is so cheap.
@@xsvforce3335 - We shouldn't need to pay extra for privacy and security, but we do. Those features should be standard. Check out GrapheneOS as a cell phone operating system if you'd like less tracking and spyware.
To send it wirelessly from PrusaSlicer you add a "physical printer" and specify the ip address and API key for prusa link.
My man went from TShirt to Turtleneck after just a little bit of owning a Prusa :D, Got all fancy on us!
On a side note: Josef definitely seems like a class act. I'm glad he's on the proper side of 3d printing, vs the Bambu trash we are dealing with lately.
European 3D printer = dress like a European. I should get one of those hats PRUSA is always wearing
Polymaker is .03mm tolerance BTW. Had to look at their specifications sheet to find that
great review!
I sold my Ender 5 and got the MK4 kit, I couldnt be happier, this is such a great machine now that input shaper is enabled.
I look forward to your tear downs of this machine and any improvements you might come up with!
I also got the enclosure for it and printed ABS, PC And Nylon with no fails and really good prints
Had mine now for two months and it prints fantastic all the time and i think your right a little bit better part cooling would make the prints even better
Its nice to see that prusa is still delivering at their exact traget audience. They still provide the reliability tgey are known for, but that cost speed quality triangle is definitely letting you know where your money went. I have a mk3 that ive upgraded to mk3s+ over time and i tend to buy my asa a d flexibles from them still due to their filament consistency. If im gonna be using pla or petg i can deal with a more calue option but the more expensive performant filaments i dont wanna deal with the headache of dialling them in
Print comparison between Prusa MK4, Bambu Lab P1 and Creality K1 would be interesting. It seems like my P1 prints better benchies (at least).
Look at Aurora Tech, they have done multiple comparisons between the K1, P1P, MK4 and most other recent printers
theres a channel that does this ans i highly recommend it. its aurora tech channels
K1????? Really……this is bullshit….it is Creality horrible firmware and hardware!
@@DJProPlusMaxAurora Tech???? Do you believe influencer? Making reviews for money….not for you!!!!!!
Regarding the slight underextrusion: I noticed that Prusas Prusament profile is always a little underextruding since back when it was introduced - not only with Prusament. They never corrected that. This doesn't happen with the "Prusa PLA" profile in Prusa slicer. If you still use the Prusament profle just increase the extrusion multiplier by 1 percent and you are good. This solved most related issues for me
Great review, appreciate the details.
Just a small note: to my knowledge the MK4 doesn't come with extra PEI Sheets, the buyer would have to pay extra for that. I believe they only sent you extras because this is a review unit.
True
The gummy bears are for the Kit versions of the printer. In the instructions manual you have instructions to take a certain number of gummy bears after certain steps so you don't pull out your hair when you are building your printer :D
I had a X1C after troubles and 2 months of back and fourth with their support I send it back.I have a MK4 now for little over a week now and it just works. I am using it with Prusa Connect and Ethernet. No issues and it just works out of the box with no issues and excelent results.
I have a brand new MK4 kit and I’m pumped to get it working- this will be my first printer so I’m real excited! I’m interested to see any mods you make for the printer (like the cooling fans you mentioned). New subscriber! :)
Hell yeah dude, got mine set up recently and it's my second printer and it blows everything I've used/seen out of the water, I hope you're having as much fun as I am! Cheers 🍻
Why is there a sidways tv in the background?
Yes
Why not ?
That wifi setup is pretty rough in 2023. Also shocked they don't walk you through connecting it up to Prusa Slicer, especially since they already link you to an online guide.
I'm also not a fan that they don't have onboard accelerometers for input shaping, and instead rely on a universal profile, and hope that it's close enough. Especially if the machine isn't on a very stable surface, that could cause major quality variances. Let alone assembly variation.
Not a bad machine, and I can appreciate their open-source past, but for what they're charging, and the competition they're facing, they need to deliver more IMO.
Their software team seems in especially rough shape. It took this long for input shaping in its current state to release widely, and the touchscreen still isn't functional... It feels like they're operating as two halves, with one not knowing what the other is up to.
FWIW, there is a connector on the main board for an accelerometer. So hopefully (and when I was at ERRF I was asking for this functionality) they will create a routine to generate one's own input shaping profile. Especially useful if someone adds significant weight to the hot end (bigger fans, copper heatblock, etc). Time will tell.
Thanks for the review, gotta give props to Prusa for the professionalism. Love Prusa's printed parts, genuinely the best and (probably) last RepRap machine on the market. Also this is by far the easiest Prusa printer to use from what I'm seeing. Those first layers are perfect, my Bambu isn't giving me first layers like this. Genuinely might make the Mk4 my next printer for my business.
about the under extrusion issue , you can use the prusament filament profile or generic pla filament profile , they have implemented preset linear advance prameters inside;
and also , could you test the print with the same filament used in the cr-10 print ? in my experience , the galaxy black filament is good at hiding defects.
Glad to see you got one! I'm a firm believer you get what you pay for, some may think it's overpriced, but I love my MK4. I own Rolex and Seiko watches, same arguments happen with watches and cars for that matter.
Rolex has shittier craftsmanship than grand Seiko or Omega
At their price it should be all metal cnc no plastic
Just ordered mine today.. Looking forward to add the 3D print features to my workshop.
Woohoo Nathan got MK4!
A really useful and informative video that has helped enourmously in pushing me towards Prusa. Thank you for taking the time to make this video
Prusa having 100+ machines running at 120+% speed 24/7, producing parts is a huge benefit to the consumer.
You telling or asking?
@@FarazMKhan I guess that depends on who's asking.
I reckon most people don't stop to think about the simple fact that many things are now built by people who don't use the products they produce.
So a manufacturer of tech products that uses those products as a core element for production of product is a little special.
Especially when they could just copy someone else's designs, but when developing innovative products there's no one else to do your testing for you.
I have a small farm of MK3S+ Bears, with some beefed up parts, better part cooling ducts, upgraded Einsy board and Pi housing boxes, etc. I wonder how the upgrade path for the Bear owners is going to shake out, really all we need is the MK4 effector assembly, 32bit MCU board and screen, then the motors. Might be more cost effective to just replace with an entire MK4, who knows. I haven't really dug into the MK4 BOM yet to determine.
Love the TV cam sideways in the background. I found myself looking for delay more than the mk4, sick review
Side note about Prusament here in the States. PrintedSolid carries Prusament in addition to their own in-house Jessie (which is another high-quality filament) and multiple other brands. I haven't price checked in a while, but I think the per spool price of Prusament at PrintedSolid is slightly higher than in the Prusa store, but that is because the shipping cost from the Czech Republic to the US is baked into the cost in the PrintedSolid price. Shipping over the Atlantic on a pallet is probably cheaper than individual spools so the cost+shipping is probably cheaper from PrintedSolid to the US. But I haven't price checked in a while.
Hey Nathan! Just picked up a P1S from microcenter . Having some minor issues with AMS retraction. Is it worth troubleshooting or just return it for new one ?
Return it, bambu lab printers and customer support can be slow and tedious, and if you’re still in the return window that’s your best option
you are my favorite 3d printing channel. Very smart and also very funny! ❤
Hi Nathan, any news for part cooling upgrade? I think its the weakest part of the machine and im still waiting a solution...
Hey! Thats Aurora Tech's song 🤺
Outrage!! Engagement boosted. TH-cam algorithm is happy
what printer to get depends on your priority. if you prioritise long term support and longevity of the printer itself, Prusa. If you want the absolute fastest and cutting edge technology Bambulab X1
You need to use the same filament when comparing 3d printers
Prusa Printer -> PRUSAMENT
Creality Printer -> CREALITYMENT
Orange printer is best because it doesn't sell your data to the highest bidder.
Do you have concrete proof or you are just bullshitting?
Literally every company that is big sells your data just because mr. orange Printer doesn’t do It doesn’t mean it makes the printers better. I know a certain company that sells data yet makes a better printer not saying orangeies are bad it’s just better
@Brandon-jf9cv what printer company is that?
@@Brandon-jf9cv You have a lot to learn.
@@Backwoodsmachinist bambu, Prusa fans don’t crucify me I’m literally in the process of buying a mk 4
You can connect directly to the printer locally! I use exclusively that... I don't like clouds! There's Prusa Link and Connect, one is the cloud one while the other is the local one, I don't remember which is which
Thanks for the video. Good review but the one thing that bothers me is the wifi hookup steps. I mean its 2024 and the steps to get this working on wifi is ancient. Its probably the only company that does it that way. Other than that, its a contender. My question is how does it compare to printing parts vs the Bambu X1C or the FLSUN S1? What print speeds can we expect and still have good quality - that whole time is money thing.
Love to see you do mods on this and I would also like to see a review on the Prusa XL.
Prusa now operates in the building where the Haribo gummy bears used to be made in the Czech Republic.
Interesting!
Hey Nathan! What’s the best 3D printer for QUALITY prints?
i believe the gummie bear is a reference to the first 3d printed bench prusa ever did back in the riprap days before benchie boat was a thing. it represents the 1000's of test prints that got prusa to the refigned design it is today
Shouldn't the two printers be compared with the same filament?
Prusa with PRUSAMENT and Creality with Crealityment
@@NathanBuildsRobots you are silly. You spent time going on and on about how the permit was better, and would have better extrusion with the pros versus the other.
Better to compare the printers with their own manufacturer’s filament, assuming the filament is of equal quality. The software will have the settings for their own filament dialled in correctly, so such a comparison will be closest to the experience for a new user.
I see printed parts as a bit of a positive, because they're essentially "eating their own dogfood" - using their own printers to make stuff for their own business, which means if their printers have quality problems, it will affect them directly so there's a big incentive to make sure they get it right. I've also noticed the Mk4 I have is really good at PETG - I imagine this is because PETG is the primary material for their printed parts.
Yep, even their mk3s printers were really good with PETG. We print parts at my work with their PETG and it has no issues at all because of how the printer was designed/tuned.
I'm thinking to start into 3D printing (for home use) and all the china options don't really convince me. I really like the Prusa and I'm currently thinking about two options. Buy an used MK3s+ and maybe upgrade upgrade later down the road or directly by an MK4. What would you reccoment?
Personally, I would buy an MK4 if the support was really important to me. Like, being able to talk with support and having a step-by-step guide on how to do anything on the printer- PRUSA is great for that and why it's more suitable for professional use.
For home and hobby use, I think something like the Elegoo Neptune 4 or Ender 3 V3 is a much better deal, because the price difference is substantial.
There is also the Wuxn WXR if you want to look at an american assembled brand.
@@NathanBuildsRobots Thx for teh fats response. I'm in Germany so no Wuxn. I'm looking for a good out of the box experience amd want just print. Service and repairability is also important for me. I also like the Idea of completely building the printer (rebuilt for upgrade). :-)
The cooling fan is sufficient, but the fan duct is not designed very good. On Printables you can find fanducts which cool from both sides. This mod (the only I have done) gives better overhangs.
On the question of whether it would be better to replace the printed parts with injection molded parts to make it cheaper. For injection molding, the parts would have to be redesigned. Injection molded parts typically have thin walls to handle shrinkage as the plastic cools. In addition, the parts must be easy to release from the mold, which affects the shape of the part. And the more complex the mold, the more expensive it is.
What makes injection molding cheap is high volume. If you're making millions of parts, there's no question what's cheaper, but if you're only making a few thousand or maybe a hundred thousand, 3D printing can be cheaper.
Watching you chat about prusament after the announcement that they were moving some manufacturing to the US.
I always like their filament, but obviously it’s a bit premium priced compared to all the Chinese brands.
But one of the big reasons is because they use really premium Indio pellets. As it happens that company is based out of the Midwest in United States so they’ve been paying to have these 2000 pound bags shipped to Europe and then shipped back to the US in the form of finished filament.
The Chinese companies are producing their own pellets so they only have to pay the shipping once and can trim their profits down, but sell the reels for nearly half the price.
I think Prusa will be able to easily shaves some money off of the price in the US market.
I did see that that company was opening facilities in Europe and Asia, though.
If all printers had the same in nozzle pressure sensor as the Bambi A1 wouldn’t that eliminate the issue with extrusion width variance?
You have it wrong with the gummy bears. You buy the gummy bears and you get a free 3D printer. Prusa is the only candy vendor that I know of that does that.
Yes the network file copies are slow... Unfortunately slow... Not that it matters much for the time of most prints, but it does matter when you are waiting for that first layer to go down so you can move on to something else. As someone mentioned, you can absolutely 100% print directly from Prusaslicer to the machine.
I'm looking forward to you turning your mod mind and laser eyes on to the mk4... and thus bending it to your will!!! I am looking forward to your part cooling mod on the mk4 in particular.
I get needed a quick flow calibration (easy in orcaslicer), but I'd expect the linesr advance to be well matched to prusa's own filament
You should make a video in Aurora Tech's style, with that soft plain tone and music, always have a good sleep after watching her video for 5 minutes before bedtime.
Have you done any upgrades to this machine?
Sovol, the junior engineers of the 3d printing space, are trying...
And so am I...I have to keep redesigning their molded parts because they couldn't be cheaper.
They market that printer as a beginner printer because if you actually use it often, you will be stuck in an endless loop of broken cheap parts that need redesign because they were made for injection molding, not 3d printing.
I have about 12 hours into redesigning their parts...tensioner pulley mount, Y axis rod mount, and a soon to be unveiled extruder mount that won't break when it decides to slam the bed...and also can accept Igus Drylin's.
I should have just bought a Pruse cause sovol is manure...pure, steaming manure.
cant lie prusa quality is incredible. their printers are totally worth the price but my wallet is on sabbatical. you should get atom or sublime text for gcode editing. a generic USB C hub with SD/USB 3 A/etc is like 15 bucks and will make having a mac less of a pain
I've bought many USB-C hubs. They all get lost. My best approach so far has been to buy a dozen usb-c to usb-a adapters and lose them in different places so when I look for one it doesn't take too long to find one
@@NathanBuildsRobots Sounds like my approach to pens and scissors. 🤣
Hey Nathan. Had to stop the video to write this as this is not the first time that happens, but please either get rid of the mirror on the back or put the monitor somewhere else not pointing to it, it's very distracting! Now back to the video!
May be wrong but isn't it a TV on its side? I don't think it's a mirror.
It’s for engagement, and I think it worked 🤣
I am so confused of how the image in it is sideways when mirrors don’t do that
@@smugpikachu7222 it's a tv
1:12 - Aw. I was here for the box review! Nathan Boxes Robots, when?!
with input shaping i find there are good gcodes and bad gcodes ps there is a fan divider for the print head on printables
What’s it called? Would like to check it out
@@NathanBuildsRobots Prusa MK4 Fan Shroud for better TPU Cooling on printables
@@pepsicolaboy7280 thank you so much!
Actually you shouldn’t remove the filament when it purge because the last purge will stick the 1st purge and be away from the nozzle
Clearly the Mk4 needs a cooling solution like the Neptune 4 with its complete overkill quad-fan setup :)
(Love the cooling on the Neptune 4, but it's high flow and high volume)
Good idea. Changing the mass of the toolhead might be a bad idea since the input shaper assumes a certain toolhead mass. It might be better to just add a big fan to the back
@@NathanBuildsRobots Could strap a row of 80 mm fans angled somewhat towards the build plate onto the Mk4, or go all fancy with a ducted setup like the N4. Not sure what would work best there, but at least fun will be had :)
Thanks for the in-depth review. Hope you enjoy it! And don't throw it off the balcony.
This would be the last printer I throw off a balcony
only front fan from noctua, could be nice to upgrade the other one
Planning on doing a review on the Wuxn WXR?
i bought my first ever 3d printer less than 2 months ago, it was hard to decide what to get and prusa was right in the middle between the ( ready consumer level ) 3d printers and a fully DIY printer, so i chose the mk4 and was hit by the price and how hard its to get ( very late restocking and actually no delivery to where i live ), so i decided to get a voron instead, i was disappointed with it not having input shaping ready and the beta profile was good news, their prusament filament is amazing, the one you are using, wow.
May I suggest testing the ethernet upload speed too?
Good idea, that might be a good way to increase upload speeds
You need to do a little tweaking to get your flow rate highly tuned, but once you get everything dialed in you’ll have no more issues. Especially when it comes to overhangs. I know I can trust my printer up to about 70° almost near 80 with no problems whatsoever. In fact, I was a bit shocked to see the front of your benchy bow.
When it comes to flow control, prusa had alluded and it’s first podcast after the MK four was released that because of the way they have implemented load cells they would be able to actually feel the pressure and control flow perfectly in future updates
The tweaking part is true for any printer, I suppose. My MK4 printed great using Prusament (PLA, PETG and PC blend); you’d expect them to get the profiles for their own filament right. Benchies came out super clean.
I also printed a bunch of stuff using Real PETG (a brand that’s readily available here) and that took me a good while to get right. Especially as the optimal extruder temp was at the high end of the manufacturers recommendation, and bed temp was well outside it. But once dialled in, the MK4 produces great prints.
hi, i just found a new printer:
Peopoly Magneto X
hearing your opinion would be quite interesting
it has a new motion system
stock klipper and connectivity to orca slicer
Cool. Thanks for doing this review. Yes please do a video about modifying the fan to a larger version. I would be interested to learn how to do that. (There is absolutely no way I would try it by myself without seeing it done first.) I have the Prusa I3 mk3s+, and it has been pretty awesome overall. Minor issues, but they are rare and sometimes attributed to cheap brittle filaments breaking. You are right about Prusa's documentation, it is nice to actually be able to read about the printer with good pics when the need arises.
I don’t agree to the security argument in LAN mode wrt. Bambu Lab. You can easily prevent any device to send data to the vendor by disabling this possibility in a gateway or router. And you can monitor the connections made using a network sniffer. If I don’t trust a vendor, I’d definitely use one of these methods. Did anyone ever detect that issue in LAN mode when using a Bambu Lab or other type of machine? What I agree to is that Prusa machines are secure and trustworthy.
Looks like a honest review.
Only injection moulded plastic parts are not better than printed parts. 3D printing has advantages of more freedom in the form. Not all the printed parts are suitable for injection moulding. Injection moulding gives stronger parts, but that's not needed here. Prusa has a printfarm with their own printers. That makes it necessary to produce very reliable printers.
In the world of mass manufacturing, cheaper is always better. If you can make a set of MK4 parts for $0.40 per printer or $2.80 per printer, which manufacturing method would you choose?
@@NathanBuildsRobots For injection moulding you must make a mould first. Having a mould made can be very costly. Depending on de complexity it will cost you € 15.000 to € 50.000 per mould. Prusa sells a lot of printers, but not that much that the cost of a set of moulds would pay it selves back.
So it is 40 cents per printer, plus a share in the cost of the moulds.
They produce 3D printers and filament them selves so that is much cheaper as having to buy printers and filament.
With injection moulding making a new iteration of a part is nearly impossible, with 3d printing you just put a new file in the list.
Why do they make you print a spatula?
So you can cook flapjacks on the heated bed when you're done with it :D
Why does it have 2 filament spool holders?
Can only use one at a time.
Symmetry and easy change-overs
Nice video, am planning on getting a MK4. They also released input shaper on their minis, and will on the XL. Will be cool to see that.
I'm confused why they didn't just put an accelerometer on the toolhead and printbed. It would have added some cost, but that is a known good way to do input shaping
Or just give people the option to do it manually like klipper does it by measuring a test pattern
@@twanheijkoop6753You can do a test print to determine the frequencies. In the Prusa Input shaper forum you can find a thread with gcode for the klipper test print.
@@NathanBuildsRobotsthey most propably don't have enough free computing resources or free interfaces on the board to process what they are measuring
@@martin525622 There is a connector on the MB for an accelerometer. Note, AN accelerometer... They haven't released the schematic and layout files for the MK4's Buddy board yet so I haven't been able to see what sort of interface the accelerometer that they support uses (and they haven't released info on what accelerometer they support)... If it is an analog signal, well only one accelerometer at a time. If it is I2C then there might be support for multiple accelerometers on one connector using different I2C addresses. I'm not worried about the lack of the PCB design files yet, they usually wait to sell a bunch of printers before putting the files that clones can use out on the internet.
a printer that prints good out of the box is a great idea, how ever my slightly modified ender 3 pro running clipper gives me much better results, community mods and tinkering is the best in my opinion, but this still a very good printer for non-tech savvy people.
True, my modded Ender 3 S1 kicks ass, but it wasn't great out of the box so some mods are necessary.
Great video! My Prusa i3Mk3s+ has been my tried and true for years. Not in the place to upgrade to the MK4 just yet but what a lovely machine - I am definitely a sucker for the new screen and the upgraded hotend that would make non-planer printing more do-able than with the MK3 tool head.
I enjoyed watching your version of the review because it shows me why I sent back my Bambu P1P after months of fighting with them to fix it.
And of course you pointed out almost every reason why I love prusa, even though they’re kind of a weird company
Filament changes are quick, the print quality is astounding , you don’t really need an enclosure to print with advanced filaments, the support, if you ever need it
It’s got a town size as well, but dollar for dollar I’d rather have better print quality than hyper fast prints from a company that just steals from open source
Best way to get your design stolen: Open source it
PRUSA printers have a track record for loooong service lives. Lots of other printers are just thrown out after a while, and have unserviceable parts. Seems like this MK4 would run for 10 years with the right care.
Would it be possible to add some personality and upgrade your studio?
Nahh
Would really like to see your mod for increased part cooling!
Your videos are awesome bro keep up the hard work 🙂
I think the key is professional printer vs consumer or "prosumer".
Nathan must be special. I don't think Prusa sends review units in the past. Nice!
You always answer questions I got. 👍👍👍
I'm watching this entire video with my head sideways and watching the TV in the background
Man, I love the new time lapse song ;-)
21:50 can i uncover my eyes know? I'm holding my eyes covered for around 5 hours and i want to see again...
You can open them now.
I hope you have a text to speech app so you get this message.
@@NathanBuildsRobots thanks, i had to ask my dad to tell me if/what you answered
PRUSA SHILL! j/k thx for the review. I shook Josef's hand at ERRF yesterday, but I didn't get promised a printer. The 5 toolhead XL is legit mesmerizing to watch in person.
I think he was glad to see 3D Printer people at Open Sauce. It was about 5% of us there. At ERRF everyone is a printer person, it can be overwhelming
Damn it Nathan...I was interested in a box review lol
The box is really nice.
Doesn't read or understand the instructions and settings then blames PRUSA. There are way too many reviewers on TH-cam that waste your time like this one.
Nice play on the long running orange rockets are better argument.
Orange man bad! Orange rocket good!
Died laughing @ 27:25 lol. Greatly appreciate your satirical nature bro
I can see the quality in the build. However, I’m not even looking at a printer for that price with that kind of build volume.
Josef should have sent you an unassembled MK4 so you could expend all of your nerdy build inclinations on assembling the printer and you might be less inclined to mod a new printer right out of the box in a "review" video, as per your usual style. Then again, maybe he figured the more time you spent working on it, the MORE you'd want to mod it. 😛
Waiting for the cooling fan mod.
GG
The blower fan is a 5010 blower fan which is still more powerful than the stock 5015 blowers used on the Mk3 lineup in my experience, and definitely more powerful than the 4010 used on stock creality machines, but a LDO 5015 blower is still much more powerful than the MK4's 5010, maybe I will replace it.
Looking sharp Nathan
I have buyed so many printers…Creality, Sovol, Artillery, Flsun, Kingroon, Bambulab, Anycubic, Flashforge 🤮, Tronxy 🤮🤮 and Prusa. Wich printers are still here without any modifications? Prusa and Bambulab! (Flsun SR with a lot of mods) I love my 2 Mk3S+ my Mini and the Bambulab P1P is a great printer with AMS!
Very good review enjoyed all the detail .
very informative and thorough, thank you
Klipper prusa… the dream. Is it even possible to run klipper on a prusa?
I believe it is, with a raspberry pi or other external device ofc
I wonder how? Have not seen any guides or something online… also a shame you can’t replace the ESP with a raspberry pi… Don’t have a MK4… bit on the fence between qidi, bambu and prusa…
@@serdalo5035 I've not seen any guides yet either, but klipper has a config template for Prusa printers with the Buddy board (path is "config/generic-prusa-buddy.cfg"), and then you'd probably just have to follow the regular klipper setup guide.
I haven't received my MK4 yet and when I do I'm not sure klipper will be worth the hassle.
Seems klipper isn't really ready for the MK4 yet (PR #6158 adding support for something clock related wasn't merged? I haven't really looked into it) so if it influences your decision on which printer to buy just keep in mind you'd probably have to do a fair bit of effort to get it working
Don’t really “need” klipper but looking at things like prusalink… I would miss klipper with Moonraker and Fluid…. Though choices 🤷🏽♀️ maybe just go for a Qidi X-max CoreXY is often “better” then a bed slinger
I hate to spend the money on a Prusa but I just don't see anything else that can do the quality I desire.
As a total noob to 3d printing, ended up going with an 'out-of-the-box' model from the competition. But knowing what I know now, it does not seem as intimidating. With pressure put on by Bambu Lab, I am hoping to see Prusa reply with greater innovation. I would like to own one of these machines, but they have to step up their game. Thanks for the unbiased preview. -another great video on your part.