I have a suggestion for installing new chain plates. Start by removing all of the delaminated glass. Next grind the inside of the hull back to good glass. Then glass in some knees perpendicular to the hull. I would make the knees from something like Coosa board or solid fiberglass (maybe G-10). Make the knees around 1/2" to 3/4" thick and glass them to the hull with multiple payers of biaxial (non-woven) fiberglass fabric. Once you have the knees in cut slots in the deck for the new chain plates to pass through, insert the new plates and bolt them to the knees with stainless steel backing plates the same dimensions (thickness and width) as the new chain plates. You will need to rotate the new chain plates by 90 degrees and make some sort of cover plates for on deck (G-10 or stainless steel with slots for the chain plates to pass through). Seal the new deck penetrations with butyl rubber tape. This will move your rig an inch or so inboard, but that won't matter to the overall strength of the rig.
Agreed! Yes that would be a great build for new internal chainplates. I already have the new chainplates which are thick external bronze bars, I will still have to build up the areas the the old plates were and heavily reinforce them, but the bronze external plates with internal backing plates on fresh roving should be pretty bomb-proof.
EVERY yacht owner, yacht refitter and especially EVERY YACHT MANUFACTURER should be made to watch your video. I'm still gobsmacked at what you found. Recently rebolted my 1979 S&S30 chain plates. The heads of most of the bolts fell off when I put a spanner near them 😳😳😳 but only those marked with 316SS were still in remarkably excellent condition. Methinks that the failed bolts were 304 bolts "accidentally" used when the yacht was built. At least mine weren't encapsulated although the previous owner had put gaffer tape over them where they were visible in the lockers. Arrrgh. Love what you're doing. 😎⛵
Thank you! Yes, the other big point I did not drive home is the importance of visibility, you should easily be able to inspect critical parts of your boat, like the chainplates, regardless of the build or material. That's really spooky about your bolts wow!
Great job ... It's always a mystery of what is hiding behind the inner layers of the hull ... good work getting those out of the way ... now you can concentrate on setting up the new chain plates!!!
I think if everything was stainless and sealed up better with a drainage it might have been better. Keep an eye on those! The other issue is you cant inspect chainplates that are hidden.
I just did a deck repair today and wow, it’s taking forever to set! It’s getting there, but man, you have to check the forecast a day out to make sure nothing gets rained on!
Hey, may have been the lighting but your panel tabs looked like they where a bit dry but plenty strong for the application. I'll be interested on your chainplate replacement plans, you are going to get really good with laying glass.
A thought. Wherever on the deck core you have things fastened that need shear strength, which should be about anywhere anything is fastened, and where you probably have deck core problems, maybe do not use divinycell in that core area. But rather some water-resistant material with the highest sheer strength. Teak shear strength is around 1,300 to 1,900 psi and white oak as a shear strength of around 2,000 psi. To save weight over the entire boat though, perhaps use divinycell, which has nine timed less weight, but also nine times less shear strength that white oak, in non-critical areas.
I did a deck repair today and yes, this is at the top of my mind right now, picking a better core for areas like the bow that will have the windlass and other fixtures. I used Divinycell for the patch job in a low stress area, but I am seriously considering something a lot stronger for the bow, with low rot susceptibility.
I was looking at battery types and found a type called nickel-iron batteries, a hundred-year-old invention. They are very safe, new ones last 30 years with a juice change every 7 years. But they are heavy and expensive. So, can I put a 300-amp hour, 24 volts, nearly 1000lb battery on a 1960-ish Pearson Triton 28?@@projectseawolf
What a mess. But external chainplates corrode too. Id look at the Mack Yacht Services TH-cam videos and and see how they glass in the new chainplates. Thats their specialty.
@@projectseawolf I've repaired the one on my boat now (video on its way) wonder what they where thinking? Mine was topped by a custom bronze casting so they weren't doing it the cheap way! I replaced it with $25 of stainless steel bar, but now it's simple and inspectable
![How BAD Could OLD Chainplates Be? | Sailing Wisdom [S6 Ep2]](http://i.ytimg.com/vi/2tZ5LU-VaPc/mqdefault.jpg)
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This was very interesting to see, learned a lot. You’re killing it bro, keep up the good work
Thank you! Ya, it was very satisfying watching them all come out and cleaning up the space.
I have a suggestion for installing new chain plates. Start by removing all of the delaminated glass. Next grind the inside of the hull back to good glass. Then glass in some knees perpendicular to the hull. I would make the knees from something like Coosa board or solid fiberglass (maybe G-10). Make the knees around 1/2" to 3/4" thick and glass them to the hull with multiple payers of biaxial (non-woven) fiberglass fabric. Once you have the knees in cut slots in the deck for the new chain plates to pass through, insert the new plates and bolt them to the knees with stainless steel backing plates the same dimensions (thickness and width) as the new chain plates. You will need to rotate the new chain plates by 90 degrees and make some sort of cover plates for on deck (G-10 or stainless steel with slots for the chain plates to pass through). Seal the new deck penetrations with butyl rubber tape. This will move your rig an inch or so inboard, but that won't matter to the overall strength of the rig.
Agreed! Yes that would be a great build for new internal chainplates. I already have the new chainplates which are thick external bronze bars, I will still have to build up the areas the the old plates were and heavily reinforce them, but the bronze external plates with internal backing plates on fresh roving should be pretty bomb-proof.
i always wanted to see old glassed in plates removed. It was a cheap and easy way for boat builders to do back in the day.
If it wasn’t for the mild-steel crossbars those plates probably would be so bad! It was very satisfying removing them all and cleaning it up.
Glad that went as smoothly as it did for you! Amazing that she was sailing with that amount of deterioration!
Yes! And the previous owners know about the problems for over a decade! Those stainless center bars could have easily pulled through!
EVERY yacht owner, yacht refitter and especially EVERY YACHT MANUFACTURER should be made to watch your video.
I'm still gobsmacked at what you found. Recently rebolted my 1979 S&S30 chain plates. The heads of most of the bolts fell off when I put a spanner near them 😳😳😳 but only those marked with 316SS were still in remarkably excellent condition. Methinks that the failed bolts were 304 bolts "accidentally" used when the yacht was built. At least mine weren't encapsulated although the previous owner had put gaffer tape over them where they were visible in the lockers. Arrrgh.
Love what you're doing. 😎⛵
Thank you! Yes, the other big point I did not drive home is the importance of visibility, you should easily be able to inspect critical parts of your boat, like the chainplates, regardless of the build or material. That's really spooky about your bolts wow!
Great job ... It's always a mystery of what is hiding behind the inner layers of the hull ... good work getting those out of the way ... now you can concentrate on setting up the new chain plates!!!
I am so stoked to start the serious rebuild process and get this big beautiful boat sailing again!
Wow, I was surprised how much rust you found!!
There was quite a lot on those mild steel cross bars!
My chainplates are glassed in but they have an additional plate on the deck that fits over the plate and gets glued in. Has worked so far.
I think if everything was stainless and sealed up better with a drainage it might have been better. Keep an eye on those! The other issue is you cant inspect chainplates that are hidden.
To clean out core, put a small 90 degree allen wrench in the end of a drill.
Yes! Atom voyager uses that technique.
What's your plan for FG work in the winter months? Just thinking ahead about how it's gonna set up when it's 35-40 during the day.
I just did a deck repair today and wow, it’s taking forever to set! It’s getting there, but man, you have to check the forecast a day out to make sure nothing gets rained on!
Hey, may have been the lighting but your panel tabs looked like they where a bit dry but plenty strong for the application. I'll be interested on your chainplate replacement plans, you are going to get really good with laying glass.
Yes! Tons of fiberglass work to come, and I’m excited to get working on the external bronze bars with internal reinforcement for the new chainplates!
A thought. Wherever on the deck core you have things fastened that need shear strength, which should be about anywhere anything is fastened, and where you probably have deck core problems, maybe do not use divinycell in that core area. But rather some water-resistant material with the highest sheer strength. Teak shear strength is around 1,300 to 1,900 psi and white oak as a shear strength of around 2,000 psi. To save weight over the entire boat though, perhaps use divinycell, which has nine timed less weight, but also nine times less shear strength that white oak, in non-critical areas.
I did a deck repair today and yes, this is at the top of my mind right now, picking a better core for areas like the bow that will have the windlass and other fixtures. I used Divinycell for the patch job in a low stress area, but I am seriously considering something a lot stronger for the bow, with low rot susceptibility.
I was looking at battery types and found a type called nickel-iron batteries, a hundred-year-old invention. They are very safe, new ones last 30 years with a juice change every 7 years. But they are heavy and expensive. So, can I put a 300-amp hour, 24 volts, nearly 1000lb battery on a 1960-ish Pearson Triton 28?@@projectseawolf
What a mess. But external chainplates corrode too. Id look at the Mack Yacht Services TH-cam videos and and see how they glass in the new chainplates. Thats their specialty.
I’m sure it can be done well with modern materials and knowledge but I would much prefer to be able to inspect my chainplates visually everyday.
the old "repaired" chainplate is... interesting!
Ya! I guess going through the stainless would be a good quick fix, but nothing that will last.
@@projectseawolf perhaps an acceptable repair if you realized the problem but weren't able to get the boat out of the water for some reason.
is there a bow chainplate also?
Yes, I knocked that one out already, it had already torn most of the way out! Yikes.
@@projectseawolf I've repaired the one on my boat now (video on its way) wonder what they where thinking? Mine was topped by a custom bronze casting so they weren't doing it the cheap way! I replaced it with $25 of stainless steel bar, but now it's simple and inspectable
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