2000 Club Car DS, Gas - Engine Shuts off After 10 Minutes
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- เผยแพร่เมื่อ 27 ก.ค. 2018
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I had the SAME problem with my Grandfather’s 2003 DS, it took me a while to diagnose, took the same steps, carb clean, valve adjustment, I later changed the coil because when it would act up, hand choking it made no difference, glad to hear that I actually fixed it haha
Wow what a lot of work for the coil replacement. You really know your way around Kevin. Nice job.
Great video, it helped a lot, I've been having problems solving this, the customer brought me the cart with a new coil already installed, so I discarded it, but I'm going to change it to check. thank you very much.
Great video!! Thanks for sharing. I got some strange things going on with mine. I think I will be doing a coil swap soon.
That’s exactly what my EZGO is doing, I also had a fouled plug.Thanks Kevin.
Well, I FIGURED IT OUT!!!!!! I didn't notice when I first looked but...water in fuel! That's all it was. Pulled out tank, drained, air dried, and replaced. Works! Thx again for the vids. PS...might wanna do a vid on taking out the tank..I GUARANTEE I did NOT do it correctly/the easiest way. Take care...
Terrific video! Thanks!
Great video! I did not realize the secondary cluch came off so easy.
Sometimes they can be a bugger.
Good fix! Exactly what was wrong with my cart
Good video. Mine is doing the exact same thing! I checked all 4 things needed for an engine to run. Spark, fuel, air and compression. First time testing it, spark was good, fuel good, compression and air were good. Cleaned the carb with still no success. Checked several other things and it still wouldn’t start. So I started with the basics again and ended up finding that the spark was cutting out after a few seconds. Ignition coil fixed it! However rather than removing engine mount bolts. Just remove the exhaust. Remove throttle cable cover up top. Remove the L shaped bracket under blower housing. Remove blower outer cover. Then remove blower cover. All this can be done without removing engine mount bolts. Took me roughly an hour at most. Your method definitely works but no need to go to that extent in my opinion. Work smarter, not harder.
To each their own. This way works best for me and is quite fast. When I'm not filming, I can have this done in 35-40 mins.
So really not time consuming then.. Good vid👍
Great video. Lots of help
Great video from start to finish. I was able to get to my lower cover bolts with a long extension. The motor mounts didn't have to be touched, this was much eaiser.
I did the same thing
You can’t do it this way if the carts had it replaced once before. There’s one bolt holding the cover on that’s sandwiched between the rear motor mount bracket. There’s literally no way to get at it without sliding the engine forward.
Dude I'm do the same job tonight . Loving the engineering I'm at a spark no spark how'd you like those rear Bolts at the back engine plate wasn't that lovely. I was like really, come on. I did end up pulling the start generator. What was the general time start to finish?
Well done.
I've done this job and find it much easier to just remove the muffler and muffler mount. Gives you plenty of access to the blower housing bolts. No need to mess with belt or clutch.
To each their own. I find the way I do it works better for me. In the past, I've had mufflers break, exhaust studs break, etc so I don't touch the muffler unless I'm changing it.
I have a 1990 Columbia parcar has same issue but I have a robin engine cleaned fuel, had coil tested, replaced spark plug still no change I just ordered a reed valve hoping that that's the problem. Not sure what else it could be. Any pointers would be appreciated.
All customer's are happy until you give them the bill. HAHA! But hey thanks for showing us how to trouble shoot this problem. Great vid!
Hey Kevin I’m experiencing sputtering and lose of power when under load going up steep incline with my Ezgo clays cart that has the fj400d kawasaki engine. Thought it was the carb and purchased a oem replacement but still same issues under load on steep incline. Suspect ignition coil as the spark is yellow and appears weak to me. What color and how strong should that spark be. It’s the same no matter the plug. Also haven’t had a valve adjustment since I bought the cart used in 2011 but it always has run strong till now. The engine starts fine and runs ok on flat ground but do notice a intermittent lose of power on flat surface as well. Please let me know what you think and thanks
LOVE your videos! But please, please use jack stands when you lift a cart and crawl under it. Keep up the great work.
The front is on ramps rated for 12,000 lbs. Thanks for your concern.
Great videos. I am new to carts so getting familiar with my future.
Bye the way, you should be a sportscaster with your voice.
I have the same problem and replaced the coil fuel pump carb filters lines battery you name it and still have the same problem, any pointers?
My g16 pops through the carb and cuts of u can pull the choke out and it may run a little ways befor it dose it again what is it
Nice job!
Great video. You have a lot of very informative videos. Thanks for your content. My club car is experiencing the exact same problem as this one. Just out of curiosity, could you please message me what you would roughly charge for this fix as far as labor. I have all the parts and a guy that wants to do it but I don't want him to bend me over. Thanks!
Saludos desde Panamá, 🇵🇦🌴🇵🇦🌴🇵🇦🌴🇵🇦 tengo uno así 💪
Good video, helped me fix my sisters cart. Thanks
Thanks for the great video. I have a 1996 club car that is giving me a weak spark, I replaced the coil/ignitor and swapped out the carburetor and rpm limiter for spares that I had. I recently did a full tune up new spark plug, oil change, oil filter, gas filters, and air filter. I made sure the space between the flywheel and coil isn't too large. Have you got any other ideas what can be causing a weak spark?
Thank You
96 doesn't have the ignitor inside the coil. The ignitor is behind the rev limiter on those. 97 and up was integrated. Remove the rev limiter and toss it, replace the ignitor.
good job
I did the coil and I still have the issue where I will run it figure around 10 min and then go to start up again and it will crank but not run. Is the Revlimiter my next part to check?
Very good info. Can you explain how to put the cart in service mode? I have a 2004 EZGO TXT , thanks Kevin
EZGOs don't have a service mode.
Great video
It might be the improper way but all you have to do is take the muffler off of the engine. It is only five bolts that you need to take out to get the it off.
But what if I jump the solenoid and I can get the motor to run? Then is it still the coil?
I did just what you did, yet still no spark. any ideas?
So I just changed the coil and it seems to be rubbing and it’s causing the engine to run like it’s getting too much fuel.
I have detonation going on now, I’m not sure how to fix that. I have a new plug, new carb, new filters, new pump, and when I first got it running it was running very hot and now it runs fine but after 20 minutes it detonates when I turn off
My husband has had this problem with his cart not turning over at all, he's replaced plugs, igniter, carburetor, rev limiter, microswitches, coil , gas tank and it is still not turning over just acting like it is flooded... He is out of ideas??? Any Suggestions?
I have a 2006 xrt810 and i war driving it today for about 40 minutes and it ran amazingly. I got home, shut it off for maybe 10 minutes, and decided to take it out mudding a little bit, on my way there, it died. I was going maybe 20mph and it just slowly died. So I tried to start it again, and it took a bit of choke and gas to get it going. It would barely be running with the help of the starter. Then it started up good again. I drove it home and it died 2 more times. It sat for maybe 4 months with the same gas in it too. I want to make sure this is the problem, how do I make sure
i find it way easier to unscrew the 4 phillips heads and take out the blower inlet and take the muffler out. then a little trick for that stupid bolt at the bottom near the diff is to undo the 13mm head bolt and nut directly in front of it that holds the muffler bracket on and slide a 1/4 " extension through and put a socket on the other side. ive had to do 3 of these in the last few weeks. also id suggest you replace the rpm limiter at the same time, we have found a lot of times a bad ignition will cause rpm limiter failure down the road and vice versa. these parts are not cheap!
Removing the blower cover, at least for me, I've been doing it this way for years and it works. Its not necessary to remove anything that is not in the way. Just easier for me to unbolt the engine and reposition it. I typically like to replace everything at the same time but, the customer has the final say when it comes to paying for it. In this case, the rev limiter was bypassed and thats how they wanted it. I tried to explain to them that it prevents the engine from over-revving but they wanted it left alone. Thanks for watching.
Do you ever work on club car XRT 1550? I have two of them with similar issues I need help diagnosing? Thanks
They are similar to all other club cars. The only major difference is engine size and brakes.
great video having trouble with 97 fuel system good, replaced rev limiter old one shorted out but car still runs when shut off any idea??
Sounds like one or more of the micro switches has failed and is not shorting the ignition coil when you release the gas pedal.
Hey Kevin, I have a 97 ds 48v and flies on the flats and is very slow up hills and the batteries are new, any idea what that might be? Thanks for your help, Ray
Its a 97. Those curtis controllers are only 200 amps. They don't have a lot of power output. The newer carts have 250-350 amp controllers. I have a 99 that's slow on hills but moves pretty good on flats. Make sure the tires are inflated to the sidewall rating. If they are stock, you don't need anything higher than 18-20psi. If the cart is lifted, with larger tires and wheels, then you are making the cart work more to do the same work as stock.
Okay...just finished this job and it is STILL doing it. I HATE THIS CART!!!!!!!!!. But, I was able to do it without moving the motor. Took of exhaust and brackets. Not too bad. But again, I HATE THIS CART! Guess I'll clean the tank now. Keep up the vids.
Hopefully as things get better here, I will be able to start making more videos.
Much love brother! Cart just died in the driveway and I went through all the stuff you've taught me and looks like I'll be doing this job this weekend.
Would it be possible my coil is okay if I got spark by disconnecting the rev limiter?
You can bypass the RPM limiter to see if the cart returns to normal. Most people leave them disconnected but I always recommend replacing it with a new one.
@@Kevinsgolfcarts bypassed it and have spark now. Disconnected the carb fuel line and found another issue of no fuel coming out so new fuel pump and rev limiter on order.
On a side note have you ever made a video on installing gears on a Club Car ds or precedent?
I have not. I don't have a high demand for high/low speed gear swaps. I've done a total of 4 in 20 years, 3 on EZGO and one on Yamaha.
@@Kevinsgolfcarts 10 4
Keep up the awesome videos and I always look forward to getting your notifications.
P.s.
Go clean off that work bench. Lol
My Yamaha g1 starts fast cold then when it’s warm it will be slow to start and runs bad and stalls. When it starts it takes a few seconds to get speed going again etc. Anyone know what I can do to fix this issue? Hope this makes sense. Also it has a new carb
Whats your thoughts about using a non OEM coil on a 1999 club car DS ? They are $$$. What brand of aftermarket coil do you use/trust ?
If you could find one that will work, go for it. I only use aftermarket or oem parts designed for the particular use. Its too much liability to jerry-rig. As Benjamin Franklin once said "The bitterness of poor quality remains long after the sweetness of low price is forgotten." I'm a Red Hawk/RHOX dealer so I use their parts when available.
"Special tool" for the gas pedal, thats awesome. Good video, pita job. Do they still build them like that?
You bet they do. The newer ones are even worse to put coils in because there is way less room in the engine compartment. You actually have to remove the exhaust pipe and muffler to be able to slide the blower housing away from the engine even half as much as Kevin did in the video and fish your way in there to get the coil out.
Everyt good mechanic has "special tools" lol. It is a pita job, for sure. It has to be done nonetheless.
I have been having trouble getting mine to start, it turns but no start.
I replaced coil, igniter and voltage reg and still nothing. I finally by accident discovered that it was the foot switch the whole time. I knew I was having trouble with the switch because sometimes (when it would run) that it would not shut off. Then I went to turn it over to check something else it would not even turn. I tapped on the switch and not only did it turn, it started running. I bypassed the switch and wired it straight to the key and bingo, it runs great.
Weres that switch at?... Im havibg same trouble
@@erikarodriguez3140 Just under the hood where the foot peddle cable comes through the body under seat. I have since replaced the switch with new one since the key method was a pain. Runs fine.
@@streak2645 thank u very much .ima check it.
@@erikarodriguez3140 I hope it helps.
I just had to fix an oil leak on the crank case (I think). Either way, you had a video with the same leak. Thank you for that btw. Now, I think my cart is doing what THIS vid is about. My question is this...short of cutting anything, do I HAVE to move the motor AGAIN? I'm about to drive this thing into the river! No one around my area works on these (honestly) no one! Idea help you can give will be much appreciated. Thanks in advance. And please, keep doing these vids. You live too far for me to bring to you. Take care
all you need to do is remove the muffler and mount then you can access all the cover bolts and screws. I did take off the drivers side rear wheel.
I try to avoid touching the exhaust bolts if possible. Its no fun when they break off.
Just put in a new coil and flywheel on 2015 precedent ex40 motor..still getting intermittent spark or no spark..any suggestions? Bad ground?
I don't have any experience with that engine. I have not come across any issues with the few that are in my area. I would say check all of the wires and make sure their connections are clean and tight. Intermittent spark is usually caused by a bad CDI, also known as the ignitor. I can't really say with any certainty since I haven't had any of those in my shop.
@@Kevinsgolfcarts thanks
I have an 03 with the kaw motor, runs rich, runs lean. Starves for fuel, no blockage. Then dumps fuel and carbon fouls the plug. Then it'll clean itself up. Empties the filters, then sits and refills on its own.new carb, new coil. Any suggestions? The thing is in amazing shape other than this issue.
Original issue a year ago was filling crankcase with fuel.thats when carb and coil were replaced. Pretty sure the "shop" just threw parts at it. Had the fuel pump apart, all diaphragms look good.
The carb needs to be cleaned. What I've been seeing is the rubber tip on the float valve swells up and cracks. This causes the valve to not close properly when the bowl fills with fuel and it dumps into the crankcase, floods the engine or starves it of fuel. If the float valve is not cracked and just swolen, leave it air dry for a few hours and re-assemble the carb. I've had good luck with this without replacing parts. The valve usually swells when it gets wet with water so make sure the fuel is good and there is no water in the tank. Change your fuel filters any time you do carb work.
I'm tearing into it this week, and I've got an extra coil sitting here just in case... Thanks I'll look into it
valve adjustment 004
I have a club car carry all too 2000 gasoline it starts and runs and then when I stop and go to start it again it does absolutely nothing I leave it set for a while get on it it'll go again and then I stop and then it won't do anything again
Same trouble over here
I have a 94 club car that will turn over, but wont stay running. I changed spark plug, new fuel filter, new fuel pump. It will turn over but wont drive or stay running. Spray starter fluid in it and it tries to stay idling but then dies. HELP HELP HELP!!
It sounds like you have a blocked carb, bad compression, failed igniter or rev limiter. You need to do a compression test and clean the carb by removing it and taking it apart. By design, these engines don't idle and will only run while in forward or reverse. The only way to get it to run in neutral is to put it maintenance mode. Without more information, that is the best I can offer.
At 15, shim the coil with beer can or microfiche, don't guess.
BEYOND FRUSTRATED with my Club Car 2006 with 350 engine! Replaced fuel pump, filters, fuel hoses, carburettor, new ignition coil, new rev limiter, flushed tank, new spark plug..... Runs nicely for 3 seconds and dies. If I use throttle, it accelerates and then dies after 3 seconds with a small backfire. If I leave it for a couple of minutes, same thing - starts but dies. I have NO idea what to do now! Any ideas anyone??
That’s ridiculous just to replace ignition coil
Its not too bad, just a bit of time.
The labor is surely more expensive than the parts
Labor is usually much more than what parts cost. This also depends on the actual work being done.
You cannot do this job just removing the exhaust if the carts never had the blower cover off. There’s one bolt that holds it on that’s sandwiched between the blower cover and the mounting bracket. You’ll see it on the back side of the engine if you look between it and the bracket. There is physically no way to remove it unless you slide the engine forward
I have many times without moving the engine. Its a pain but it can be done.
@@Kevinsgolfcarts your video shows a cart with the back bolt for the blower cover im talking about removed. If it’s never been removed before it’s physically impossible without moving the engine
You don't have to remove the bolt, just loosen it. The cover has a slot, not a hole.
what do you charge for this repair job when you have to clean up others messes that they leave?
For something like this, it can vary. Usually this is about a $300 job.
Nick michigan
The over rev limiter can be bad.
You can test them by disconnecting them and seeing if it will run, if not, its the coil/CDI.
Engineers design machines like they will never break or need maintenance...
Some engineers. (not all)
@@paulmayo3703 you’re right, of course. My 21 years in the Navy left me skeptical as designing engineers had to maximize space especially on destroyers and other small combatants. Imagine trying to maneuver pumps and turbines in confined spaces. In dry dock, holes were cut into the side of the ship to remove machinery for overhaul; ten pounds of crap in a five pound bag. I thought things would change when I went into the cryogenics industry after retiring from the Navy. Certainly things were spaced out farther apart but individual machinery manufacturers still tried to stuff everything into smaller packages to minimize footprint and weight. One of the best things that happened at our company was sending new engineers (chemical, mechanical, electrical) to be an operator at our plants for two years before they were allowed to design or plan anything. Busting your knuckles on something someone else designed has a way of altering your perspective.
@@williamlott7612 Kevin constantly complains about the newer Ez-Go carts with good reason.
I started my engineering career as a Field Engineer for the USAF and spent 5 years teaching blue suiters how to maintain equipment I did not design. Certainly open my eyes into poor mechanical designs. It taught me a perspective that lasted throughout my career to design maintainability into the product.
Use a cereal box for coil setting
u need a lift