Prick and pounce is mentioned in the publishers note of "Early American Embroidery Designs", although they use charcoal instead of cinnamon. It is noted because the source work from 1815 was never pricked, which is how it survived to be reproduced.
Best example I’ve seen for inserting gore!!! Your instructions, and inserted comments/opinions, made the process so clear and precise! Thank you for taking time to show us this video!
I remember Sabine of Kleidung um 1800 also cited and followed J.S. Bernhardt's instructions of sewing stays with grey silk (in his book published in 1810). So a more contrasting colour of stitching was probably a bit more common than extant examples indicate - or the colour faded! Came over from the HSM - finally have the time to go through the entries with more attention paid. But I loved these when first uploaded. :-)
Hello fellow HSM-er! Wow, I wonder how popular contrast stitching may have been on these types of stays... it certainly "pops" against the fabric quite nicely. Thank you so much!
Thanks for sharing yor sources! I'm forever on the lookout for some form of comfortable non-bra support garment, and this pattern looks pretty simple, so if the one from the draft your own corset website doesn't pan out, this will be next on the list after the Regency short stays... and having books that explain how to do it all are far preferable to than just giving you drafting instructions and assuming you know what you're doing when it comes time to put the thing together! Pockets, I get, but plackets, why can I not conceptualize plackets... starting with rectangles, wrapping it around myself, cutting hip and bust gore slits where they need to go to fit my particular torso and putting fabric ror paper inside the slits and drawing in the shape the gores need to be sounds right up my alley, patterns certainly don't fit well when your waist measures only 5" smaller than your hips and all your measurements lie... (if I make a waistband my actual waist measurement, I can slide it off right over my hips that measure 5" larger, I need -2" ease in my waistband to not lose my dang pants if I put anything of note in the pockets). I feel you on the thread finishing part being tedious, lately I've been using one of those needles where the back looks like a et of barbs towards the eye so you can just push the thread between the barbs and it slips in instead of having to thread through the eye, I think it's called a self-threading needle. I won't sew with them because they're generally a lot thicker than I want to use and excessive roughness will break them, but wow are they ever helpful for thread end management. I used to use an embroidery style needle that's got a larger eye which is easier to thread, but the self-threader that recently popped up in my sewing needle collection (I'm sure it was there all alnng, I just forgot about it for the last 5 years) can take four threads at once with no "oops I missed one thread" silliness.
This is my current project, although starting with the old RedThreaded 1830s corset which is cut slightly differently than workwoman's guide expects, which is a little bit of trouble at the side hip gores.
Hi I'm so glad to see you are back! Since you made these stays, was wondering if you were going to do a video on making a 1830s Corded petticoat? Thanks 😁
Thank you! I made a corded petticoat a few years ago, and have a blog post all about it here: pourlavictoire.blogspot.com/2020/04/corded-petticoat.html Not sure I have it in me to make another one of these in my lifetime 😁 this corded petticoat was tedious!
@Pour_La_Victoire I saw the video from American Duchess, with Abby Cox, from a few years back. It is very chaotic. The Patreon they refer to is also discontinued. I'm in the process of making my first 1830-40s ensemble. So I need undergarments. I have several vintage petticoats that I want to repurpose for it. The cotton is beautiful and still reusable. I just don't want to keep them tucked away in an archival box. Thanks again for the book recommendation, I will definitely get it. 🙂
@@AmericanBeautyCorset What an exciting project! Feel free to reach out to me on Instagram if you have any questions, or want to see other details of my corded petticoat :)
Thanks for this amazing video. I am recreating an 1830s dress and undergarments are always really hard to make so this was very helpful. BTW: love your voice, i'ts so relaxing.
Thank you for including the book. I travel too much to really be able to keep historical books safely but digital versions are always nice... And go on both my laptop and my home cell phone.
@@Pour_La_Victoire Same here. It doesn't always work because sometimes the digitalised text gets garbled. But usually it does, and it means you can trace a specific subject throughout history far more easily.
I am enjoying your research and design portion of the video. I have a question about the fabric. What kind of linen would your recommend for this kind of corset? I imagine it varies, but as I am not familiar with linen use in corsetry making I would like to know what to look for to make this kind of stays in linen. would you recommend a medium or heavier weight? about how many gsm would be ideal for corsetry? Thank you!
Hello! I would recommend a medium to heavy weight linen, but less heavy than a canvas. The linen I used was medium weight, with a tight weave and smooth surface, from Fabric Mart Fabrics. Not sure how many GSM it was. You'd definitely want something sturdy that doesn't crumple easily :)
I love how you always share your research at the beginnings of your videos! And the story about your grandma was really sweet.
Thank you 😊
Prick and pounce is mentioned in the publishers note of "Early American Embroidery Designs", although they use charcoal instead of cinnamon. It is noted because the source work from 1815 was never pricked, which is how it survived to be reproduced.
Wow, thanks for sharing that resource!
Best example I’ve seen for inserting gore!!! Your instructions, and inserted comments/opinions, made the process so clear and precise! Thank you for taking time to show us this video!
Thank you so much ❤️
Great video! ❤️
Thank you!
This is so detailed!!! Thank you so much!
This is the most comfortable corset I have ever had
I remember Sabine of Kleidung um 1800 also cited and followed J.S. Bernhardt's instructions of sewing stays with grey silk (in his book published in 1810). So a more contrasting colour of stitching was probably a bit more common than extant examples indicate - or the colour faded!
Came over from the HSM - finally have the time to go through the entries with more attention paid. But I loved these when first uploaded. :-)
Hello fellow HSM-er! Wow, I wonder how popular contrast stitching may have been on these types of stays... it certainly "pops" against the fabric quite nicely. Thank you so much!
It looks absolutely gorgeous. ❤❤
Thanks for sharing yor sources! I'm forever on the lookout for some form of comfortable non-bra support garment, and this pattern looks pretty simple, so if the one from the draft your own corset website doesn't pan out, this will be next on the list after the Regency short stays... and having books that explain how to do it all are far preferable to than just giving you drafting instructions and assuming you know what you're doing when it comes time to put the thing together! Pockets, I get, but plackets, why can I not conceptualize plackets... starting with rectangles, wrapping it around myself, cutting hip and bust gore slits where they need to go to fit my particular torso and putting fabric ror paper inside the slits and drawing in the shape the gores need to be sounds right up my alley, patterns certainly don't fit well when your waist measures only 5" smaller than your hips and all your measurements lie... (if I make a waistband my actual waist measurement, I can slide it off right over my hips that measure 5" larger, I need -2" ease in my waistband to not lose my dang pants if I put anything of note in the pockets).
I feel you on the thread finishing part being tedious, lately I've been using one of those needles where the back looks like a et of barbs towards the eye so you can just push the thread between the barbs and it slips in instead of having to thread through the eye, I think it's called a self-threading needle. I won't sew with them because they're generally a lot thicker than I want to use and excessive roughness will break them, but wow are they ever helpful for thread end management. I used to use an embroidery style needle that's got a larger eye which is easier to thread, but the self-threader that recently popped up in my sewing needle collection (I'm sure it was there all alnng, I just forgot about it for the last 5 years) can take four threads at once with no "oops I missed one thread" silliness.
I saw these stays when you posted them on your instagram 2022 wrap up, it was cool watching them get made!!
Thanks 😊
Excellent work all the way around!!! The stays, the embroidery, the video - thank you so much for sharing 😊
Thank you so much, glad you enjoyed the video!
Your videos are amazing. I am a fashion student studying at Bunka Tokyo, very helpful
Awesome! Thank you!
So many questions answered. Thank you so much!
I'm so glad this video was helpful!
This is my current project, although starting with the old RedThreaded 1830s corset which is cut slightly differently than workwoman's guide expects, which is a little bit of trouble at the side hip gores.
Hi I'm so glad to see you are back!
Since you made these stays, was wondering if you were going to do a video on making a 1830s Corded petticoat?
Thanks
😁
Thank you! I made a corded petticoat a few years ago, and have a blog post all about it here: pourlavictoire.blogspot.com/2020/04/corded-petticoat.html
Not sure I have it in me to make another one of these in my lifetime 😁 this corded petticoat was tedious!
@Pour_La_Victoire
I saw the video from American Duchess, with Abby Cox, from a few years back. It is very chaotic. The Patreon they refer to is also discontinued. I'm in the process of making my first 1830-40s ensemble.
So I need undergarments. I have several vintage petticoats that I want to repurpose for it. The cotton is beautiful and still reusable. I just don't want to keep them tucked away in an archival box.
Thanks again for the book recommendation, I will definitely get it.
🙂
@@AmericanBeautyCorset What an exciting project! Feel free to reach out to me on Instagram if you have any questions, or want to see other details of my corded petticoat :)
@@Pour_La_Victoire 🙂
Thanks for this amazing video. I am recreating an 1830s dress and undergarments are always really hard to make so this was very helpful. BTW: love your voice, i'ts so relaxing.
Thank you so much! I'm so glad this video was both soothing and helpful!
Thank you for including the book. I travel too much to really be able to keep historical books safely but digital versions are always nice... And go on both my laptop and my home cell phone.
You're welcome! My favorite thing about digital historical books is that i can search the text within seconds!
@@Pour_La_Victoire Same here. It doesn't always work because sometimes the digitalised text gets garbled. But usually it does, and it means you can trace a specific subject throughout history far more easily.
I am enjoying your research and design portion of the video. I have a question about the fabric. What kind of linen would your recommend for this kind of corset? I imagine it varies, but as I am not familiar with linen use in corsetry making I would like to know what to look for to make this kind of stays in linen. would you recommend a medium or heavier weight? about how many gsm would be ideal for corsetry? Thank you!
Hello! I would recommend a medium to heavy weight linen, but less heavy than a canvas. The linen I used was medium weight, with a tight weave and smooth surface, from Fabric Mart Fabrics. Not sure how many GSM it was. You'd definitely want something sturdy that doesn't crumple easily :)
“Apples on a platter”. 😂