Hello, I recently discovered your channel and I think it's great! I used to work in a similar job in New Zealand and now I have a few questions about the process in Canada. When is it necessary to use bridging clips? Is it only for exterior walls? Also, do you always use bridging channels every 4 feet or is it specified on the drawings? Can you please explain when to use them? Thank you! I'll continue to watch your videos.
That's a great price yes. I charged $5,200 just to install, steel, itch, double layer 5/8 and tape only a little over half had to be ready for paint, the rest fire tape.
I just wondering… i know every construction is different but here in Alberta you require shop drawings & steel stud to be minimum 18GA for 18ft walls. Just the odd job that no one cares,you can do that with light gauge to save some money but then you take the risk….
@@qualitygypsumservices I am in Alberta as well. For interior demising walls we usually use 25 gauge 6" and no shop drawings, either it's on the prints or a simple division of space. Most of the walls will land under an I-beam at 16' then the 2' above the expansion joint is just angle and backing with the bottom of the 2' landing at the very top of the slot track. I haven't heard this rule before but I am not saying it doesn't exist. We go up to 18' with 25 gauge almost always. I have done 18 and 16 gauge for sure it just all depends on the designers and what they spec.
For anything I calculate the labour first, steel is anywhere from $4.50 to 13.50 a linear ft or 80 to 90 cents a square ft. Then materials, get 3 quotes, pick which one you like, add 10 to 15% and that's it. Make sure to add in any expenses like travel, fuel, food (when out of town).
I wish to add a comment here. While working around the stationary steel comumn, better to strike a reference line, say 1 foot off of where you desire the wall lines and use that for snapping the wall lines, while staying within the column, but not allowing it to interfer with your snap lines.
I will use an offset sometimes, like when the column is twisted a bit. The goal is to have it completely in the wall, so I take my layout from center of column always. Yes you can use offsets as well.
Good question, if you do drywall you will better understand why it is so critical. It keeps the studs square, as why we call it a stiffener as well, when the drywall goes on its also very important to have a flush plain so when it's taped you don't have bumps in the wall. Another reason is for insulation, that's why we put it every 4' to keep the insulation in place and it won't all fall to the bottom.
Never underestimate a Canadian, we are generally a hard working people, cold winters. If you see us in the cold sure it's slower, but in the warmth it's go time. We will go 8 to 10 hours 1 break in the middle on avg. for the installs we are fast enough, i try my best to do everything well, it takes time to film it all to teach and help others. we charge well and get paid well, when things go right. Wich is most of the time.
Don't need a hard hat if there is no work above you. Don't need a vest unless there is machinery being operated near you (indoors it's not likely). Don't need a harness unless you're working 10'+ with no guard rails (the lift has guard rails). But yes, he should be wearing safety glasses when firing the gun...
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Great video+explanation+presentation! Thank you for sharing well done mate - NEW SUB 🙏🏻
Thanks my man!! Some how your comment was put into my blocked list, probably because of the + I appreciate that my man!!!
As an apprentice your videos are much help. Thanks again
Always welcome bro!!
You are a legend by all means 💐💐💐
Construction Kronies rule!
My man!!!
Hello, I recently discovered your channel and I think it's great! I used to work in a similar job in New Zealand and now I have a few questions about the process in Canada. When is it necessary to use bridging clips? Is it only for exterior walls? Also, do you always use bridging channels every 4 feet or is it specified on the drawings? Can you please explain when to use them?
Thank you! I'll continue to watch your videos.
Yes so we will stagger them every 4' on exterior walls. The drawings or specifications will tell you for sure yes!
Good job on the videos and the channel Chris! Glad to see you're well brother!
Appreciate that💪
@@ConstructionKronies I sent you a message on FB earlier
@dinger28 I'll have to check it again, could be in my requests and I missed it.
I did a similar work here. Charged 14.000 for labor, contractor providing the materials. I’m at south west florida. Good price?
That's a great price yes. I charged $5,200 just to install, steel, itch, double layer 5/8 and tape only a little over half had to be ready for paint, the rest fire tape.
Hey, how come you’re using light gauge steel for that wall? Just wondering if did end up getting shop drawings ?
Yes for interior dividing walls we mostly use 6" 25gauge and then double layer 5/8" with sides, insulated.
I just wondering… i know every construction is different but here in Alberta you require shop drawings & steel stud to be minimum 18GA for 18ft walls.
Just the odd job that no one cares,you can do that with light gauge to save some money but then you take the risk….
@@qualitygypsumservices I am in Alberta as well. For interior demising walls we usually use 25 gauge 6" and no shop drawings, either it's on the prints or a simple division of space. Most of the walls will land under an I-beam at 16' then the 2' above the expansion joint is just angle and backing with the bottom of the 2' landing at the very top of the slot track. I haven't heard this rule before but I am not saying it doesn't exist. We go up to 18' with 25 gauge almost always. I have done 18 and 16 gauge for sure it just all depends on the designers and what they spec.
@@ConstructionKronies Max height for a 600S125-27 at 16" OC w/ 2 layers each side would be 15' 3"
How much do charge on commercial projects? That is labor & materials included?
For anything I calculate the labour first, steel is anywhere from $4.50 to 13.50 a linear ft or 80 to 90 cents a square ft. Then materials, get 3 quotes, pick which one you like, add 10 to 15% and that's it. Make sure to add in any expenses like travel, fuel, food (when out of town).
When would you use sill gaskets?
Cake with extra gravy
great job
Thank you!!
Where are you based? I need a quote in Ontario
I'm in Edmonton. Originally from Toronto and travel back. Shoot me an email chris@constructionkronies.com
Magnetic welders 45 degree might speed up the stud screwing n avoid using clamps.
I wish to add a comment here. While working around the stationary steel comumn, better to strike a reference line, say 1 foot off of where you desire the wall lines and use that for snapping the wall lines, while staying within the column, but not allowing it to interfer with your snap lines.
I will use an offset sometimes, like when the column is twisted a bit. The goal is to have it completely in the wall, so I take my layout from center of column always. Yes you can use offsets as well.
What is the point of the channel through the stud?
Good question, if you do drywall you will better understand why it is so critical. It keeps the studs square, as why we call it a stiffener as well, when the drywall goes on its also very important to have a flush plain so when it's taped you don't have bumps in the wall. Another reason is for insulation, that's why we put it every 4' to keep the insulation in place and it won't all fall to the bottom.
Why do Canadians move so slowly
Never underestimate a Canadian, we are generally a hard working people, cold winters. If you see us in the cold sure it's slower, but in the warmth it's go time. We will go 8 to 10 hours 1 break in the middle on avg. for the installs we are fast enough, i try my best to do everything well, it takes time to film it all to teach and help others. we charge well and get paid well, when things go right. Wich is most of the time.
where's your safety glasses, atleast if your teaching, include every aspect
I put em on when I need them so should you.
😂 no safety glasses. No harness, no hard hat, no vest. Earplugs
The beauty of working for yourself buddy… The Best!
Don't need a hard hat if there is no work above you. Don't need a vest unless there is machinery being operated near you (indoors it's not likely). Don't need a harness unless you're working 10'+ with no guard rails (the lift has guard rails).
But yes, he should be wearing safety glasses when firing the gun...