Metal & Wood Stud Framing (PRO CARPENTER SHOWS BEST WAY)
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- เผยแพร่เมื่อ 18 มี.ค. 2020
- Metal & Wood Stud Framing (PRO CARPENTER SHOWS BEST WAY) In this video we show the #verycoolgang pro carpenter tips when it comes to metal & wood stud framing. Using metal studs over wooden studs will save you money, weight, and time because metal is a lot easier to work with and Vince shows the best way to put it together and frame it. Let us know your thoughts on metal and wood stud framing and which material you choose in the comments section below.
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Hats off to this guy. It’s great to see a good tradesmen taking pride in his work.
I thought this video was the best I've seen so far!! Thanks for all the Amazing but needful tips! I look forward to many more, and yes, I followed you! 😊😊😊
Quick Tip & Trick, as long as your first stud is level you can grab your tape measure from that stud & go all 16” or 19” without having to put every other stud level because your first stud is already level so therefore the measurements after will be the same & level might be off by 1/16 but 1/16 passes. Carpenter in nyc that’s how we move quicker ! Time is money.
Pro carpenter would know those studs are upside down.
that's funny i thought the same thing and im a first year apprentice actually second month on the job. i still like this channel but lol
So true but most GC’s don’t care. I think I’ve only had a team of plumbers complaining about it because they have a gym shower to punch out
So much crap all over TH-cam. I learned this my first week as highrise metal man apprentice. The company can literally backcharge them because its on video that they framed the whole thing upside down.
🤣🤣🤣🤣🤣I saw that too!
What do you mean upside down? Like the studs should sit inside the c channel of the metal studs
I recently started out on my own as a handyman - part time for now - often watch your channel if I run into a snag! Thanks guys!
That outro gets me every time. I Always want more. Best outro ever made on TH-cam
When placing your studs make sure the hole that looks like a skull is facing down. On other words the spiky point of the hole goes down and the round part of it is up
JosVideosHD for electricians to run their wire smoothly
@JosVideosHD some say that notch or "knock out" is for the electricians conduit pipe to fall in place or sit in snugly in the narrower notch... others would say it's easier to install the "spazzer" bar or even a cold rolled channel steel bar which are around an inch so it also sits snug and these are used to strengthen a wall or maintain 16" on center stud layout also always cut studs from the top so all notches are uniform
I said the same thing...
Local 58....we say dicks down!!! On the field
It's called a knock out
when you cut metal studs you leave them about a quarter short in the top track so to prevent drywall from cracking from building movement
Can you explain further on what you mean by building movement? Do you mean when the building settles?
@@JT-nh8sf actually more like half inch for deflection. Specially places where there’s only one floor because of snow or multistory building because of the weight of the floors above
And also when you’re hanging drywall you unscrew the top of the stud for deflection
Great video for the beginners out there. I use Crimpers, they look similar to your clamps but they're more like a plier. they basically pinch/press the track into the stud (at one small point). This way I can crimp most of my studs on a wall real fast and come back later with the screw gun, and stud won't move over
This video was awesome, more videos like this. Real life scenarios
VINCENT CARNEGLIA: THE "RAGING BULL" OF CONSTRUCTION. KEEP ON SMASHING ON IT CHAMP!
I wish guys on most construction sites would care half as much as you. Im an electrician and can barely mount my boxes right most the time because the framers stick one screw in on one side with it flopping around.
Thats sad in my day we went over the print with you guys and tried to work together....
The reason they only screw one side at the top is because it is a slip connection that screw will be removed before the the top peace of drywall is installed so if building has any movement the walls wont crack
I believe most inspectors are only looking for a three point connection. Two screws in the bottom and one in the top. I know it makes it harder for you guys to pull wires through with the studs flopping like that. Problem is all of the carpentry contractors are in such a big hurry and cheap. Cracking the whip. I can't give you sparkies a handful of pan heads without my boss whining at me. Also please stop stealing our pan heads ya dang sparkies, my boss is noticing and he's getting on my case for not putting them in the gang box. Lol
as a residential framer its nice to know I've been doing it right. wish i saw this before I learned by trial and error. id love to see more videos like this!
Very informative video Vince thanks for sharing your expertise
Like to hear someone taking pride in their work.....
Thanks for the clamp tip!
Sure like these vids over the speed tests,,,still getting a peek at latest greatest and how and when to use them. Would like more of these
Plumb the first stud, put the rest in and set them all at once on a smaller wall. Check plumb every other before fixing. In New Zealand we leave a 20mm gap between the top track and stud and not screw inner studs to top track to allow for deflection and allow the wall to move in a seismic event.
Fantastic
I like the way wood framing breaths. Seams like a healthier environment to live in.
Metal is alot better then wood, Easier & faster. I framed houses with wood.Then I worked commercial we used metal . Metal is alot better & faster
Every one of those studs is upside down. Pro tip: always cut the top of the studs. Then all the keyholes lineup for running wire. but seriously those studs are upside down. There's several reasons the keyhole is shaped like that.
This is on a spaceship... there is no up. :-P
over the door ways the cut outs or not that important, especially if you have stud:ls you dont want to waste that is the perfect spot to do so because it is a cut off that would mostly be trash. if other trades need to get somthing through the studs they have punches they can use.
Step drill works wonders.
@JosVideosHD electricians have special clips that hook into the smaller part of the keyhole.. if the studs are long they have things called spacer bars and Cole role that need to fit into the smaller part. They lock the studs together and makes the wall stiffer. And it's pretty universally known that the smaller part faces down. You always cut the top off so the keyholes lineup. And you always face the soft side to where you started pulling your numbers. So when the board hangers start they screw the soft side to the edge of the board first. And the stronger hard side of the stud they can't get you is stiff. And both sides of the wall should never have the drywall break on the same stud.
3/4” cold rolled steel goes in the narrow groove, this creates a stiffening of the wall, but only if the print calls for it!!
I gotta say, really enjoy the new format. Thank you guys. Really enjoy your content.
You know back in the days when I was in High School 1985. I used to work at a Training opportunity Program. We did not use clamps. WE just hold it with the fingers. I yesterday I was putting a screw through a metal stud, I had a clamp i didn't use it and yes the screw touched my finger. And just like that I started using the clamp.. It does help!!!!
Great video! Can’t wait to see when it is all finished! Keep up the good work!👍🧰👍
❤️
@VCG Construction I don't use screws anymore for metal studs, I use a Stanley metal stud crimper because it's easier, cheaper, faster and better: no screws, no drill driver and easier to mount the drywall, flash with the studs: no bulky screw heads and the tool works in tight spots too. Great video, I like the level of perfection you try to achieve! We shall all do the same! Be safe, VCG !
Thanks Ryno, we appreciate that!
Need more of these kinds of videos
Ive been doing this for 17yrs, and for speed and performance, i almost never use clamps. You hold the stud with one hand and always screw at the top edge of track on the hard side of the stud. It keeps it from moving for twisting. Much faster, light pressure and let the screw do the work.
You should look into the "robo grip" that sears has been selling for a minute. One handed, quick operation and fits real nicely in the pouch. They self-cinch, so you can clamp the studs with the robo grip, use your driver with a screw holder sleeve. Really speeds up the process because you're not constantly setting a tool down to free up the hand to adjust another tool. Doing that a couple hundred times a day adds up to a TON of lost time. I'm not a fan of chinese tools and very seldom recommend any, but that little $20 set of pliers might be a game changer for you. My $.02
Good stuff your providing here!
Great Video
Awesome to see field work. Get that bread VCG!!
bread ? that is his own shop....where they do TTR every friday 😂😂
That's what I get for watching the video on mute while I'm at work. 🤪🤪
@@bronxbirdman21 😂😂👍
I work in HVAC, I was putting ba collar on the ductwork, and the hole was cut a little big, so the tabs weren't holding it so I had to screw it, and the screw wasn't going in, so I put my finger behind to hold it, and the screw in straight through came out the other side.(my finger was stuck to the duct)
Basically be careful and take the time to do it right
Owwwwwww Cuz!!
@@VCGConstruction harbor freight has the clams @ a good price
I used a punch type crimping tool made for steel studs, that replaces the screws. The drywall screws then tighten it all up. Super fast, but I do like the solid feel of the screws.
Good video !!!!
Vince, loving the “OJT” vids! I was waiting for you to showcase your 90deg adapter on that tight quarters screw, next time brother. Great job.
Hey Vince, i have been using metal studs alot for commercial and i love it. I always just try to muscle them into place but may start using this idea for the future
If nobody else on a job site is teaching you this stuff, they're all a bunch of assholes.
Keep up the good work
Metal is definitely the way to go. And when we're framing the guys usually six or more of the small clamps.
I smashed the like button....
I've never framed with metal before but I think I could now because of such a good video
If you are the dry wallets though, this helps you out a lot😆
✌🏼
I like that you say, "think of the next guy". Too many guys don't.
I worked with metal about 6 months ago. I wish I would have thought to use those types of visegrips, would have made it go much quicker
Recently found this channel. It been good thus far.... get some automatic adjusting vise grips. The clamping every stud will be significantly faster
@VCG Construction
Yo vince Thanks for using my tip on the magnetizer I definitely know you listen to your Very Cool Gang members.
Felt like a shout out
Thought you're Milwaukee "gig". Good video, excellent tips. Keep it up.
Never thought I’d see you with a different brand other than Milwaukee
Great video. More like this. My #justthetip comes tomorrow and wish y’all would still do a work boot review episode
I use clamps milwaukee but if i feel like not using them i use my hands and the square i mean i've been doing in it for 4 years as long as you are centre on your 16's or 24's you are golden
I always use c clamps. I do alot of remodeling at the local hospital of mine always framing rocking finishing and painting. Alot of acoustical ceilings. Normally all 770 or 1769a sometimes we get an odd ball. If its not done right guess what are company doesn't work there. So all 9 of us care and help each other out. We are a family more than anything we spend more time together than with are own families
That was one of my first mistakes with a framing gun I was so used to using the Finish gun for trim or using my screw gun never really did much framing until I started buying the houses and I was holding 2 two by fours together what I wanted to nail them and the guy yells for me to stop because he told me the nail could go in hit a knot and turn and go right through your head
Yes yes yes yes more more more more awesome video back to VCG. BatW Makita lyfeeee
I’m scheduled to do some framing tomorrow, great advice! What tool belt you using, Vince?
Right angle for those tight spaces.
Vince is enjoying that magnetizer a bit too much. 🤣🤣🤣🤣
🤣🤣
Honestly yes that’s correct, but it’s really only critical if there is going to be electrical or pluming passing through the punch outs or the wall gets cold roll. . Above a header like this, it really doesn’t matter unless the door has sensors and that’s only commercial
Metal stud crimpers are the way to go, No screws needed! Faster & Cheaper. You should try them out sometime in a video.
Inspector would never pass anything if there was no screws both sides and top
Surely this can’t be for commercial?
Nice job,almost like me ,😆
I hope to fulfill my dream of working like you
All trades need to think about the next guy not just say f _ im
Usually I place my first stud plumb and from there go 16 O.C so I don’t have to keep grabbing my level
Yea lol never though of it as a pro tip
Subscribed great content
Thanks Dominic , we appreciate it!
What glasses are you wearing? They look cool. Do you have a recommended brand/style for indoor/outdoor?
from the comments I see you got it upside down..glad I read em. you' had me wondering . sry no thumbs up here. need to learn the right way
I’m really happy I found your channel, Vince! We need more good men out there and you are helping the next generation of carpenters and contractors out a lot! God bless! I wish you a life time of success in your businesses!
He framed the studs upside down...
He framed the studs upside down...
Wish you were available for framing the inside of my barndominium. I’m probably going to frame with metal studs now that the price of lumber has gone off the roof. As far as hanging cabinets and heavy items on steel stud wall any tips? I’ve heard blocking is to be used, but needed more insight. Thanks 👍🏻 great video BTW
I mostly use crimpers instead of screws in metal stud, you should give them a try if you haven't already. Big 👍for the field content.
Yes crimping is fast and easy, also by adding the right length of conduit act’s as an extension to reach the top of the stud from the ground .
Nice content 👍. What is the maximum span of those studs (header)? Looking to put a large opening in a non load bearing partition wall?
Nice work brother. Nice to see ya in action also hmmm....... I see that skeeter ur using ur a man that knows quality tools that perform superior to others lol 😂 great video VCG👍
I recently got into metal framing what impact do you recommend that won’t break easily TIA
Liking the field content and seeing you put them tools to use. You surprised me with the makita and not a Milwaukee. Keep the field content coming man. As for which one I like better with metal or wood. I've had mixed reviews about the 2 when finishing a basement, I've used both.
Agreed. I like this format. Nice video.
AND also Makita bits - seems this video was tailor-made to plug Makita.
Are you using the t mode on the impact?
I'm a commercial framer. barely my first year.. and all we use are makitas... is there a difference ?
German Hernandez it’s honestly preference, all the top end models of each brand will get the job done. It just comes down to which brand you like and trust more. I’m pretty sure Milwaukee has the longest warranty but makitas are indestructible. I’ve thrown my 18v black makita impact off so many roofs out of frustration when hanging gutters and it still works like day 1, 3 years later.
I've done probably about 20 000 sqare meters of metal framing. I'm cheap, I simply use pliers when necessary. But you know, there is also like a crimper punch which punches through the track and the stud and this fixes them together - it goes very fast, but I don't use it since very often something has to be moved for whatever reason and these holes with metal sticking out make life a lot harder.
I do commercial metal framing and yes you do need clamps but if you know what ur doing and screw the hard side of the stud it won’t roll on you yes you do need clamps tho but I mainly use that them when I’m screwing off the tops
Milwaukee has a small clamp 🗜 that is great. It’s got a round tip so the screws don’t jam into it.
i use neednose vice grips when necessary there a little more compact in the pouch good tips tho brotha
Switched from Milwaukee to Makita halfway through. Interesting.
#justthetip will be doing my photos and videos soon
I was amazed to see you screwing self tapping screws to hold the metal rails together, do they not have the metal framework punches over there? A lot quicker and you don't have a screw head sticking out stopping the drywall from sitting flat.
in the us you have to use Fasteners in the stud the inspector wants to see they it mechanically attached
Hey Vince you need to TTR pressure washers. Long story short I used a toilet brush for the first time and I need another substitute for toilet paper.
Are you using the t mode on the impact?
How do you run trim in a metal stud building?
Yo Vince do you have a diablo carbide hole saw
What brand of tape was that like the black with the high vis yellow
Definitely prefer to use the c clamps to ensure the stud stays in place. Great video thanks for the lesson!
Tell you what your right but one thing your studs are up side down the small notch goes face down
I thought you were a MILWAUKEE GUY VINCE! What's up with the MAKITA?! Testing out the new XDT16 to give more in-depth feedback in a future video? That is the only reason I could imagine for not using Milwaukee...
I like working with the metal better. Don’t need a saw to cut, just snipers, metal is straight and don’t have to worry about crowning
What tape measure are you using?
What kind of screws did you used when you attach wood stud to the metal track?
Do you recommend using the Milwaukee surge for metal framing??
Yes
Yo fellas! I've never worked with that metal stud. Was wondering what type.of screw you use? I may have missed it if you mentioned it in the vid. I really enjoy the work vids and Keep'em coming. Stay safe and have a wonderful evening! Thank you gentlemen!
Amos Cardoza 7/16 drill point or peanut screw
@@EL17762 thank you!
If it's 20 gauge stud use the 7/16 points. They immediately grab If you use drillers it takes a second. Now if it's true 20 gauge or thicker you might want sd
@@Superdan187211 thank you!
I'm not picking on you, but it's obvious you don't do metal framing. the soft side of the stud should face where you started pulling layout from. Then the board hanger should know which way to start. Then when the board gets hung the soft side of the stud is screwed first.
And the studs are upside down
@@fast87rx7 I said that in a previous comment. It was driving me nuts the video.
Which impact is best for this
@vcg when do you use metal vs wood studs? thanks!
Price and convenience. Now a days you might want to buy metal studs.
I'm sure in some cases you have to use headers with metal framing. Do they make headers that you can cut to fit like wood headers? Or would u just use a wood header on top of the door framing?
Studs are upside down Philly!!!😂😂
I think that bit was magnetized from the start but ok
Yo Fellas!!
What type of work gloves are you using?
Good video & great tips! 😊