This is the absolute best metal framing video I've ever seen I'm somewhat new to this and believe it or not I've learned a whole lot and got alot of clarity in just Half an hour.... gladly subscribed
I'm learning a bunch of awesome Tips and tricks and also learn a new part of the trade especially the metal framing... I've been hanging drywall for 12 years with light metal frame and basic wood frame and skills plus various other trades as well I've touched upon.. I'm about to join the local carpenter's Union in Long Island New York local 290 and I am about to enter as a journeyman and I'm learning all the things I need to learn from your videos and others as well thanks alot and it's all so familiar the lingo and strategies in your videos ..thanks bro
Is the Concrete Pins you use and show in the very first part of the video 3/4" or 1"? When I read about it, it seems like 1" embedment into concrete is recommended for a strong hold, but at the same time I can see that the pins are being sold in 3/4" for concrete and it seems like the length many uses. Is there any reason to get the type with a washer?
I need to build a small storage shed, the slab will be 8ft x 12ft. If I want to frame it with metal studs do I need to worry about bolt anchors or can I use cement glue and or ramset nails? Ideally I'd probably prefer to glue and bolt down. I think that could prove easier for dismantling in the future if someone ever desired as opposed to nails. I'm in San Diego and don't know how or what the NBC codes are, etc, I just know small structures like sheds are allowed without permits. I've done plenty of wood residential framing and remodeling in my younger days, even some metal stuff too, just not much, but want to use it for this project because the termites in southern California will turn a 2x4 into sawdust in a matter of months. It's so bad here you wouldn't believe it.
Yes you can totally use ramset / hilti pins, pin bolts or even 2 nails and a PC of tie wire to fasten the bottom track down. No glue at all but I recommend using the acoustic sealant (chemtron caulking) under the track or a foam gasket. Here is a link to show you what pins to use, go at least 3/4" cf-t.com/fasteners/anchors-studs/pin-bolts And this is the caulking you want: ca.brockwhite.com/product/2-33530110
If it is concrete yes, or concrete filled steel decking yes use a Hilti with concrete pins. If it is structural steel use steel pins. If it is hollow steel decking use self drilling framing screws the same for heavy gauge steel stud framing.
Are you using a nail gun to put the pins into the concrete? I am looking to frame in a condo, so I have a concrete floor and ceiling. Can I use pins to put metal studs for both the ceiling as well?
Yes, so I am using a powder acuated fastening tool, you can get them battery or gad powered as well. Any of them will allow you to pin to concrete and steel with the proper fasteners. The brand I use is hilti but Dewalt and Ramset are other brands but nit sure how they perform. I've used hilti dx351, bx3 or 120 with 3/4" pins and green shots.
I think you mean sealant. The chemtron black, acoustical caulking for interior or foam gasket for exterior. Nothing at the top. Did I get that right or were you looking at something else?
on a freestanding metal stud wall, how do you keep the top of the wall form moving if there is a grid ceiling? do you use the grid ceiling to lock it in place?
So my questions is these two corners when the drywall meet and you have to install the first sheet, screw it in the corner and then installed the other one to merge and the other corner now how in the future if you have a lot war league and you want to cut that sheet rock then in the corner, it will be inside how you get the new sheet then
When you lay the drywall, do the screws on the top of the track holding the vertical studs on get in the way and not let the drywall sit flat? Or do you stop the drywall short of where the screws are?
The screws are panheads so they won't push the board out and when you screw the drywall in it will snug up. If the wall has an expansion joint in it the screws will be at the center of that.
Hey there!! Yes the caulking is for moisture and acoustic. We use a foam gasket for exterior walls and the caulking inside. What happens is when there is a transition from one material to another we need to have some separation. 20 gauge is my favorite steel to work with. It either comes down to cost or required strength. The lower the number in gauge the heavier it is. Cheers man! Hope that answers your questions.
Yes the standard A frame benches go 2 step, 3 step, 4, 6 and 8. Each step will give you 1 foot access/egress hope that helps. You can buy them at the drywall supply houses for sure, maybe at a box store I'd look online first.
Is this method of construction normally sufficient building-code wise and load bearing capacity wise for load bearing walls of a 200sq-ft shed? Or is there a different method of using steel studs for that purpose? If it is not, do you have a video explaining how load bearing metal studs walls are built? I will go watch that whole thing too! By the way, I just found your channel and wanted to let you know that I like how you explain all of the little details.
Hey Josh right on man! I have lots of framing videos for you to check out here: bit.ly/ExpertFramingLessons Framing if you ever have any questions you know how to find me!
Yeah, sometimes what they do is pour a self levelling concrete after the fact and it to me is so stupid but they still do it. Drywall HAS TO be at min 1/2" above the concrete or any floor finish.
Hi Chris. Thank you for the videos. These videos are very informative. I have a question about a church that I'm working on. Plans call for 16 ga 8" studs for exterior wall that will take denseglass. Minimum spacing of studs is 24" OC. I wanted to make it stronger by doing 16" spacing. Do you forsee and complications with doing 16" spacing compared to 24" ?
22:33 can you make a video of how you connect the corner connection from the top so I are rather we can see the steps of that trick and process plz..!!
I've seen the framers use some clear spray, snap a chalk line (black) and spray again so they can lay out whole rooms then go back and build the walls. You say not to start on the bottom, but that's all ive seen in commercial. What do they use for that layout and is it bad practice if there's a door/hall to build bottom up?
Yes for layout you can use black but if its a polished concrete floor then use red. Any clear coat spray paint is good to keep your lines if your laying out a lot. I prefer to put the top track on first for 2 reasons; 1 because the bottom track on first will block your scaffold wheels and 2 i like to use a line laser to shoot up the top track and even a pin laser to shoot the corners and its easier to use the lines than the track itself. Also on Exterior framing its always good to do the parapets first and then shoot down. Does that make sense?
i am a DIYer and i am getting ready to frame partition walls with metal studs. it is going to be ending at a 10ft existing drop ceiling. do you have a video on how you attach the wall to the drop ceiling, or any advice you can give me?
@@ConstructionKronies tbar, and thats what im not really sure about. if the wall extends up to the drop celling how do you attach it to the celling and how do you finish the connection with drywall?
Okay so we use clips (get from drywall supply house) that slip over the tbar (not screwed to tbar) and then you screw downward through the clip into your top track. Leave all of your drywall 1/2" off the ground and 1/4 to 3/8" down from the tbar so you can finish tape it with TrimTek tare away beads.
Hey Daryl thanks man and when attaching to a drop ceiling - for steel stud or furring bar you can screw the top track right to the steel and secure your end wall studs. You can make clips or use flat stock. For a acoustic ceiling like tbar there are clips made to hook over the mains and cross ts. i know this may be tuff to understand without seeing but If you catch me live one day I can draw you a diagram or show you in the field! Thanks again and have a great day!!
I AM building my home and was wondering if the steel will rust on concrete, how long will it last and is it a better option than cinder block walls . all interior work
Yes you bet it is a great product. The steel is galvanized donut won't rust. Also use the chemtron acoustical caulking underneath the bottom track and your good to go. Will last forever. Keep your drywall 1/2" up off the floor and use vapor barrier (6mil poly) and insulation in the basement exterior walls. Use chemtron caulking and TUC tape at your joints. Any other questions just ask!
@@ConstructionKronies thank very much. Also does quick set cement work like chemtron , as I am doing the entire interior wall for the house , wood is extremely expensive here . I am planning on using 12mm cement board with 0.9 mm gauge steel. Am I going too far with steel gauge.
Sure thing. Here are the links to the products I use. For fastening to concrete always use the green tabs and for steel to steel you can mostly use the green tabs but you can use yellow and if its super heavy gauge you can use the reds but I rarely ever have had to use the reds. bit.ly/concrete_pins bit.ly/steel_pins bit.ly/cartridges_powder
I use the Hilti powder, gas or battery guns using the Hilti concrete or steel pins. My 2 favorite models are the Hilti dx120 and the dx351. The new bx3 isn't the worst either.
How would you recommend doing a free standing box, a room within a room for a recording studion? The walls can’t touch the structure and the ceiling can’t touch the structure either. Tricky! Would you recommend any different techniques? or maybe a different gauge of steel?
Yes I just built myself a recording/film studio so I know lots of tricks and details to set you up. For sure heavy gauge is the best, I used 16 and 18 gauge for my studio, 6". The free standing walls will be tied in to the ceiling you build. How big is the room size?
@@ConstructionKronies thanks so much! The live room will be 13feet by 21feet. Big! So I was a little concerned about the weight of two layers of thick drywall on the middle of the ceiling!
@@LouisLinggandtheBombs yeah that is big for a free standing system. Your going to have to brace it to the structure but you can use isolation pads. Just the normal foam gasket or acoustic caulking at your transitions. My studio is 20x20 and is in a free standing building (separate garage) but I did tie into the ceiling. There are a lot of treatments you can add. The best thing is if we can schedule a zoom call or something. What platforms are you comfortable with like zoom or discord?
We as a rule let the concrete cure for 3 days min. Then you can get foam gasket for exterior walls and always caulk your interior walls with acoustical (black chemtron).
I have heard of people doing that and I think if you build it right it would work. You can buy the framing screws at any drywall supplier or even box stores like home depot or lowes should have them.
Hey Luke man!! So crimping can only be done to 25 gauge steel (light gauge) and it is only recommended that you crimp the backside of the top. So screws in the bottom both sides and the screw in the side your facing and then reach through and crimp the backside. I don't even own a pair of crimpers, I can put screws in as faster if not faster. This wall here is of the heaviest gauge (14) walls you will ever build so I even had to predrill the holes for the screws at in the top track, crimpers will not work here. Cheers man! Does that answer your question? haha oops I just realized that your question was on this video and NOT my newest one. So yes this steel is light 25 gauge here and you can crimp it if you want. My apologies just waking up here!
Question: how do you attach top plate to q-deck ceiling? If you screw it to ceiling wouldn’t it make hole 🕳? If i straight nail to metal ceiling will it cause dripping water from outside building? Is there any video shows installing to metal ceiling? Thank you 🙏
Always use self taping framing screws to fasten to the qdeck. When the walls are running the same way as the flutes of the qdeck make clips to screw in even use flat stock pieces to screw to the qdeck and then screw your track to the clips.
The hilti is too strong and the pins will just blow right through the track and qdeck. I have done that before and it was dangerous and didn't work. Screws are it my good man!!
You can get them at home depot but I usually buy them from my drywall supplier for better prices. We call them 2 step, 3 step all the way up to the 6 steps and extension planks. Hope that helps!
@@ConstructionKronies I searched for "drywall sawhorse" and found them - no idea they were a drywall thing, and never seen them at the depot - thanks man!
Thank You for sharing your experience. I do need some advice, we need to fur-out a CMU block wall 4" using a steel 2x4 stud. I have Hilti Powder gun and a Jacco ballistic pneumatic gun. It's difficult to get either gun to shoot the studs inside edge to fasten the steel to the block wall. Any suggestions? Thank You!
Yes bro, this is one that bugged me when I first ran into it. You can't shoot it. You have to drill in pin bolts 1-1/4" with a hammer drill, 1/4" bit. You still in clips and then screw your tack and studs to them👍
@@ConstructionKronies thanks for the quick reply. Using the hammer drill and pins as suggested I thinking the would still be on a bit of an angle. Got a bunch of them to do, really wish the gun would work.
I dont speak English very good but i understood 85%. I really liked your video and i would like make that kind of job. ( my poor english). Regards from Perú!!
a question please: If I'm shooting and gluing a steel frame as an external wall, to a concrete floor/slab, is the glue a sufficent water/weather proofing barrier or do I need to still install some sort of flashing?
@@ConstructionKronies if I'm finishing my basement that already has poured concrete walls and floor does the steel framing I put in front of the concrete count as exterior walls or interior? should I use foam gasket for those or just the caulking?
@@FormaldehydeSon that's another great question, so the basement walls in front of the concrete are called frost walls and are considered exterior or interior furring walls. I would use the caulking there. Also these walls should be insulated and vapour barrier (poly) all the way around.
outstanding video .My question is that on a 700sqft retail store front would the common height on the ceiling would be a 10'ft ceiling with a 2'ft drop suspendid ceiling installed which now becomes a 8'ft ceiling is that the normal standard height. thanks. chilliwack bc canada
Yes that is very common. The important things to remember is get your walls up, drywall, taped and even painted before you install the drop ceiling. Check your slab for the high point and start from there, make sure you have all your flooring included. You don't want to be under 96" or 8' because it starts to feel like the ceiling is closing in on you. I would try and get as much of that space as I could, like go 9' if you can get all your mech, elect and plumbing in.
We use it to stiffen the wall, keep insulation up and keeps our studs square for drywall. That's important because if you don't have channel in the wall you have greater chance of the joints being uneven and it will take a lot more mud to get flat.
Looks like a butyl caulk. I’m metal framing a basement that gets some moisture from the basement wall. Just wanna make sure this product won’t hold moisture or get moldy.
I use my impact all the time for drywall. "With a drywall tip". Thats all you need then its a non issue. Dont need a drywall gun. I have both btw and have used all for many years.
Third-world (banana country) citizen here: The drywall gun costs around $300 bucks, and with the fast charge, it costs around $350. For me, if I can save 20% of the time, then it makes more sense to have a drywall gun than to use an impact bolt everywhere. Why? Let's say the salary of a worker is $500 (*) x month x 4 months = $2000 x 20% = $400, so I am recovering my investment in 4 months. (*) ha, even in a third-world country, no worker will work for that sum, life is expensive everywhere.
I started as a wood framer myself. When we are framing a house for example the foundation cap is perfectly leveled out so when we build our walls and square them they are good all the way up. In commercial the concrete and Steel will not be level and even sloped. Steel is more forgiving as well. We can use the track to adjust our heights. In wood the cuts have to be within an 1/8". Does that make sense? We do pre-fab walls with steel stud sometimes.
@@ConstructionKronies Yeah, makes perfect sense. I just assumed the slab would be flat/level but it makes sense, especially given the size of commercial spaces, that they just wouldn't go to the trouble of making it perfect unless it had to be.
@@ConstructionKronies lol just never seen it done with those huge benches lol. But I wouldn’t mind owning two of those 3 foot benches like that. Would work good for a saw stand table but double for a bench when needed. Keep up the good work.
@ not even with elastomer material to level it so you don’t bend the steel and weaken it? Aren’t you asking for water to go there and rust it? You know like Quickcrete or Sika non sag caulk or self leveling caulk.
Using a nail gun with no safety glasses. You learn this lesson the first day of class in 9th grade shop class. I'm surprised Hilti hasn't told you to read their instructions before using their equipment.
You know why I hearted you and gave you a thumbs up? Cause your totally right. I almost always wear them, I am surprised I am not here. I usually look for stuff like that in editing. I simply must of forgot to put them on. Good call tho!
Hey Amos, I just wanted to let you know that Konaman passed away. He was hit by a reckless driver while walking Kona. I am going to be doing a memorial stream and a may long fundraiser for his families gofundme. Email me chris@constructionkronies.com.
Steel stud doesn't work like that. That's how wood walls are built. We can build panels on some jobs but they are heavy and awkward so unless you have a crane, or a zoom boom your not going to get them up. We build in place, the tools and materials are designed for it.
When it's temporary, no prob, but I know what you're saying. When nothing else is available you gotta do what ya gotta do! Keep your bottoms square and the tops level, keep checking until the ceiling is tied in and it's all good!
Yeah I can appreciate that. It's really hard to get good stabilization and when I'm in site I don't always have a lot to film but I'm always trying to improve this. I have some really cool new gear but before I bring a large rig on site I need to make sure everyone is cool with it first. Thanks for the feedback!
Become an expert metal stud framer HERE: bit.ly/ExpertFramingLessons
What up homie
Yo bro , instaportal is a scam
@@amoscardoza5253 Yo Amos what is with these fuckers??
I am reporting them. I saw a few posts from these jerkoffs!
This is the absolute best metal framing video I've ever seen I'm somewhat new to this and believe it or not I've learned a whole lot and got alot of clarity in just Half an hour.... gladly subscribed
that's great! Thank you
Ditto!
Straight to the point, thanks for the details, can you please tell me what type of screws you are using to connect to steel studs?
#8 wafer head 9/16" vector screws for light gauge and #8 zinc plated truss head self taping for heavy gauge.
I'm learning a bunch of awesome Tips and tricks and also learn a new part of the trade especially the metal framing... I've been hanging drywall for 12 years with light metal frame and basic wood frame and skills plus various other trades as well I've touched upon.. I'm about to join the local carpenter's Union in Long Island New York local 290 and I am about to enter as a journeyman and I'm learning all the things I need to learn from your videos and others as well thanks alot and it's all so familiar the lingo and strategies in your videos ..thanks bro
Is the Concrete Pins you use and show in the very first part of the video 3/4" or 1"?
When I read about it, it seems like 1" embedment into concrete is recommended for a strong hold, but at the same time I can see that the pins are being sold in 3/4" for concrete and it seems like the length many uses.
Is there any reason to get the type with a washer?
We use 1-1/4" pins.
Solid video, I learned a lot, thanks! Do you have any videos of completing the ceiling of a freestanding room like this?
not yet actually I have the footage i just need to edit it together! Ill put it out asap!
Do you have the ceiling video ready now sir?
I need to build a small storage shed, the slab will be 8ft x 12ft. If I want to frame it with metal studs do I need to worry about bolt anchors or can I use cement glue and or ramset nails? Ideally I'd probably prefer to glue and bolt down. I think that could prove easier for dismantling in the future if someone ever desired as opposed to nails. I'm in San Diego and don't know how or what the NBC codes are, etc, I just know small structures like sheds are allowed without permits. I've done plenty of wood residential framing and remodeling in my younger days, even some metal stuff too, just not much, but want to use it for this project because the termites in southern California will turn a 2x4 into sawdust in a matter of months. It's so bad here you wouldn't believe it.
Yes you can totally use ramset / hilti pins, pin bolts or even 2 nails and a PC of tie wire to fasten the bottom track down. No glue at all but I recommend using the acoustic sealant (chemtron caulking) under the track or a foam gasket. Here is a link to show you what pins to use, go at least 3/4" cf-t.com/fasteners/anchors-studs/pin-bolts
And this is the caulking you want: ca.brockwhite.com/product/2-33530110
metal stud framingshow more videos on metal studl
Hey, what type of gasket is used under the steel tracks?
On interior we use acoustical sealant and exterior a foam gasket.
How do you install track to the ceiling. Is it the same way as you would do the floor track.
If it is concrete yes, or concrete filled steel decking yes use a Hilti with concrete pins. If it is structural steel use steel pins. If it is hollow steel decking use self drilling framing screws the same for heavy gauge steel stud framing.
Can these techniques be used to cover a window hole with cement boards?
Sure, if you want to seal off a window you can use steel stud and cement board, I don't see why not.
what is the name/model of the nail gun used in that you show on minute 6, second 8 of the video.
Hilti dx350 is my go to gun. Still the only one you can adjust the power on the gun and use different gauge shots. Holds 3/4" pins.
Are you using a nail gun to put the pins into the concrete?
I am looking to frame in a condo, so I have a concrete floor and ceiling. Can I use pins to put metal studs for both the ceiling as well?
Yes, so I am using a powder acuated fastening tool, you can get them battery or gad powered as well. Any of them will allow you to pin to concrete and steel with the proper fasteners. The brand I use is hilti but Dewalt and Ramset are other brands but nit sure how they perform. I've used hilti dx351, bx3 or 120 with 3/4" pins and green shots.
Thanks so much for your response!
What is the name of the still that you putting at the floor
And the one you put up
I think you mean sealant. The chemtron black, acoustical caulking for interior or foam gasket for exterior. Nothing at the top. Did I get that right or were you looking at something else?
on a freestanding metal stud wall, how do you keep the top of the wall form moving if there is a grid ceiling? do you use the grid ceiling to lock it in place?
Definitely do not screw to the grid, get clips like this www.revoebuildingproducts.com/products
So my questions is these two corners when the drywall meet and you have to install the first sheet, screw it in the corner and then installed the other one to merge and the other corner now how in the future if you have a lot war league and you want to cut that sheet rock then in the corner, it will be inside how you get the new sheet then
Yes sorry for the late reply. You can just add in a stud for the corner, leave the old board inside the wall.
@ thanks
What ways can you get by on nailing a track to concrete like are there any other ways than a gun cuz home depot dont have the bullets
Yes you can use a hammer drill and pin bolts. bit.ly/PinBoltsUCAN I think Home Depot has the Ramset you can use as well.
When you lay the drywall, do the screws on the top of the track holding the vertical studs on get in the way and not let the drywall sit flat? Or do you stop the drywall short of where the screws are?
The screws are panheads so they won't push the board out and when you screw the drywall in it will snug up. If the wall has an expansion joint in it the screws will be at the center of that.
What's the caulking for on the bottom track? I've never seen that done before.
When are you choosing to running 20GA vs 25GA? Thanks! Great videos!
Hey there!! Yes the caulking is for moisture and acoustic. We use a foam gasket for exterior walls and the caulking inside. What happens is when there is a transition from one material to another we need to have some separation. 20 gauge is my favorite steel to work with. It either comes down to cost or required strength. The lower the number in gauge the heavier it is. Cheers man! Hope that answers your questions.
Great video and series 👍, can you tell me about those ladders/ benches your using? Thanks
Yes the standard A frame benches go 2 step, 3 step, 4, 6 and 8. Each step will give you 1 foot access/egress hope that helps. You can buy them at the drywall supply houses for sure, maybe at a box store I'd look online first.
Is this method of construction normally sufficient building-code wise and load bearing capacity wise for load bearing walls of a 200sq-ft shed? Or is there a different method of using steel studs for that purpose? If it is not, do you have a video explaining how load bearing metal studs walls are built? I will go watch that whole thing too!
By the way, I just found your channel and wanted to let you know that I like how you explain all of the little details.
Hey Josh right on man! I have lots of framing videos for you to check out here: bit.ly/ExpertFramingLessons Framing if you ever have any questions you know how to find me!
I saw a video where they poured concrete inside a drywall with metal framing. Is it safe to do it that way?
Yeah, sometimes what they do is pour a self levelling concrete after the fact and it to me is so stupid but they still do it. Drywall HAS TO be at min 1/2" above the concrete or any floor finish.
Hi Chris. Thank you for the videos. These videos are very informative. I have a question about a church that I'm working on. Plans call for 16 ga 8" studs for exterior wall that will take denseglass. Minimum spacing of studs is 24" OC. I wanted to make it stronger by doing 16" spacing. Do you forsee and complications with doing 16" spacing compared to 24" ?
No no issues, I don't know why they do this but I always ask for a change to 18 gauge 8" @ 16" o.c. The 16" is much better and for exterior especially
Thanks for the reply. So your saying the 18 ga @ 16" oc is a better system that the 16 ga @ 24" oc. I think that makes a lot of sense.
22:33 can you make a video of how you connect the corner connection from the top so I are rather we can see the steps of that trick and process plz..!!
I'm going to put it on the list and when I get back home from the road here I will work on that, thanks for the video idea my man!
@@ConstructionKronies thanks bro
you have the best metal stud framing lessons on yt
Thank you! I will! If you ever have questions man let me know!!
I've seen the framers use some clear spray, snap a chalk line (black) and spray again so they can lay out whole rooms then go back and build the walls. You say not to start on the bottom, but that's all ive seen in commercial. What do they use for that layout and is it bad practice if there's a door/hall to build bottom up?
Yes for layout you can use black but if its a polished concrete floor then use red. Any clear coat spray paint is good to keep your lines if your laying out a lot. I prefer to put the top track on first for 2 reasons; 1 because the bottom track on first will block your scaffold wheels and 2 i like to use a line laser to shoot up the top track and even a pin laser to shoot the corners and its easier to use the lines than the track itself. Also on Exterior framing its always good to do the parapets first and then shoot down. Does that make sense?
@@ConstructionKronies Yes it does, thanks for the information and these helpful videos.
i am a DIYer and i am getting ready to frame partition walls with metal studs. it is going to be ending at a 10ft existing drop ceiling. do you have a video on how you attach the wall to the drop ceiling, or any advice you can give me?
Yes, for sure. Is the drop ceiling going to be tbar or drywall?
@@ConstructionKronies tbar, and thats what im not really sure about. if the wall extends up to the drop celling how do you attach it to the celling and how do you finish the connection with drywall?
Okay so we use clips (get from drywall supply house) that slip over the tbar (not screwed to tbar) and then you screw downward through the clip into your top track. Leave all of your drywall 1/2" off the ground and 1/4 to 3/8" down from the tbar so you can finish tape it with TrimTek tare away beads.
Great video bro. how would I connect the top track of the wall to a drop ceiling?
Hey Daryl thanks man and when attaching to a drop ceiling - for steel stud or furring bar you can screw the top track right to the steel and secure your end wall studs. You can make clips or use flat stock. For a acoustic ceiling like tbar there are clips made to hook over the mains and cross ts. i know this may be tuff to understand without seeing but If you catch me live one day I can draw you a diagram or show you in the field! Thanks again and have a great day!!
I AM building my home and was wondering if the steel will rust on concrete, how long will it last and is it a better option than cinder block walls . all interior work
Yes you bet it is a great product. The steel is galvanized donut won't rust. Also use the chemtron acoustical caulking underneath the bottom track and your good to go. Will last forever. Keep your drywall 1/2" up off the floor and use vapor barrier (6mil poly) and insulation in the basement exterior walls. Use chemtron caulking and TUC tape at your joints. Any other questions just ask!
@@ConstructionKronies thank very much.
Also does quick set cement work like chemtron , as I am doing the entire interior wall for the house , wood is extremely expensive here .
I am planning on using 12mm cement board with 0.9 mm gauge steel. Am I going too far with steel gauge.
What size fasteners did you use for the track? and what caliber load in the gun?
Sure thing. Here are the links to the products I use. For fastening to concrete always use the green tabs and for steel to steel you can mostly use the green tabs but you can use yellow and if its super heavy gauge you can use the reds but I rarely ever have had to use the reds.
bit.ly/concrete_pins
bit.ly/steel_pins
bit.ly/cartridges_powder
So what are you "shooting in"? What kind of gun is that and what are you shooting???
I use the Hilti powder, gas or battery guns using the Hilti concrete or steel pins. My 2 favorite models are the Hilti dx120 and the dx351. The new bx3 isn't the worst either.
To water proof the metal in a basement what do you recommend for the bottom track ?
I would use the Chemtron acoustical sealant 100%
@@ConstructionKronies thanks
How would you recommend doing a free standing box, a room within a room for a recording studion? The walls can’t touch the structure and the ceiling can’t touch the structure either. Tricky! Would you recommend any different techniques? or maybe a different gauge of steel?
Yes I just built myself a recording/film studio so I know lots of tricks and details to set you up. For sure heavy gauge is the best, I used 16 and 18 gauge for my studio, 6". The free standing walls will be tied in to the ceiling you build. How big is the room size?
@@ConstructionKronies thanks so much! The live room will be 13feet by 21feet. Big! So I was a little concerned about the weight of two layers of thick drywall on the middle of the ceiling!
@@LouisLinggandtheBombs yeah that is big for a free standing system. Your going to have to brace it to the structure but you can use isolation pads. Just the normal foam gasket or acoustic caulking at your transitions. My studio is 20x20 and is in a free standing building (separate garage) but I did tie into the ceiling. There are a lot of treatments you can add. The best thing is if we can schedule a zoom call or something. What platforms are you comfortable with like zoom or discord?
@@ConstructionKronies Dude! That’s amazingly kind of you! I have zoom!
Will it be ok to do this with fresh concrete? I hear fresh concrete has moisture and can rust the metal stud?
We as a rule let the concrete cure for 3 days min. Then you can get foam gasket for exterior walls and always caulk your interior walls with acoustical (black chemtron).
Is it okay to frame an entire house with 25 gauge steel? Also, where can I buy the 25 gauge framing screws?
I have heard of people doing that and I think if you build it right it would work. You can buy the framing screws at any drywall supplier or even box stores like home depot or lowes should have them.
Hi , is crimping the top and bottom track not as good as pan head screws
Hey Luke man!! So crimping can only be done to 25 gauge steel (light gauge) and it is only recommended that you crimp the backside of the top. So screws in the bottom both sides and the screw in the side your facing and then reach through and crimp the backside. I don't even own a pair of crimpers, I can put screws in as faster if not faster. This wall here is of the heaviest gauge (14) walls you will ever build so I even had to predrill the holes for the screws at in the top track, crimpers will not work here. Cheers man! Does that answer your question? haha oops I just realized that your question was on this video and NOT my newest one. So yes this steel is light 25 gauge here and you can crimp it if you want. My apologies just waking up here!
Yeh thanks pal , in the UK 90% of walls are timber but have to do metal stud in a warhouse
Hi, great video, very helpful, can I ask what you used for the ceiling on this frame ?
Yes for sure, we used the 3-5/8" steel stud and drywalled both the top and bottom with 5/8" type x drywall for a 45 min fire rating.
Great Video, Just one question is it better to drywall the inside or you could do the outside as well?
Yes you can do it either way it's just best if you can do the inside first.
Question: how do you attach top plate to q-deck ceiling? If you screw it to ceiling wouldn’t it make hole 🕳? If i straight nail to metal ceiling will it cause dripping water from outside building? Is there any video shows installing to metal ceiling? Thank you 🙏
Always use self taping framing screws to fasten to the qdeck. When the walls are running the same way as the flutes of the qdeck make clips to screw in even use flat stock pieces to screw to the qdeck and then screw your track to the clips.
@@ConstructionKronies thank you so much next week i am doing my first steel wall 18’ hight i am watching your videos it is sooo useful 🙏🙏🙏🙏
@@ConstructionKronies what if i use hilti gun will that hold top railing? I thibk that would be quicker
The hilti is too strong and the pins will just blow right through the track and qdeck. I have done that before and it was dangerous and didn't work. Screws are it my good man!!
Make sure to let me know how your wall build went, if you have Discord upload us a picture or tag me on Instagram.
You think i can make a room with 3 5/8 calb 25
25 gauge 3-5/8" steel for sure you can.
I really dig those wide ladders - what are they called / where do you get those?
You can get them at home depot but I usually buy them from my drywall supplier for better prices. We call them 2 step, 3 step all the way up to the 6 steps and extension planks. Hope that helps!
@@ConstructionKronies I searched for "drywall sawhorse" and found them - no idea they were a drywall thing, and never seen them at the depot - thanks man!
Thank You for sharing your experience. I do need some advice, we need to fur-out a CMU block wall 4" using a steel 2x4 stud. I have Hilti Powder gun and a Jacco ballistic pneumatic gun. It's difficult to get either gun to shoot the studs inside edge to fasten the steel to the block wall. Any suggestions? Thank You!
Yes bro, this is one that bugged me when I first ran into it. You can't shoot it. You have to drill in pin bolts 1-1/4" with a hammer drill, 1/4" bit. You still in clips and then screw your tack and studs to them👍
@@ConstructionKronies thanks for the quick reply. Using the hammer drill and pins as suggested I thinking the would still be on a bit of an angle. Got a bunch of them to do, really wish the gun would work.
haha I feel you bro!! !
What's the name of the power tool?
I have the Hilti DX-351 powder actuated fastening tool or a hammer drill to pin down the track to concrete. The 351 also has steel to steel pins.
What's the general rule of thumb for when aa boxbeam is needed. Is it anything wider than a standard single doorframe?
Yeah I would go with that, and any opening higher than 8' .
@@ConstructionKronies Thanks for the reply
I dont speak English very good but i understood 85%. I really liked your video and i would like make that kind of job. ( my poor english). Regards from Perú!!
Muy chulo gracias!! Hay mucho trabajo en este oficio para los chicos que quieren trabajar 👍 déjame saber si te puedo ayudar.
This is state of the art stuff, people. Construction Kronies has a library of content that can bring quality to your work 📈
DUDE You rule man!! Thanks for always leaving the best comments!
a question please: If I'm shooting and gluing a steel frame as an external wall, to a concrete floor/slab, is the glue a sufficent water/weather proofing barrier or do I need to still install some sort of flashing?
No flashing no. You don't need to glue the track down. For exterior walls use the foam gasket. I suppose you can use the chemtron caulking as well..
Ok thanks for that info. Sounds easier and cheaper.
@@ConstructionKronies if I'm finishing my basement that already has poured concrete walls and floor does the steel framing I put in front of the concrete count as exterior walls or interior? should I use foam gasket for those or just the caulking?
@@FormaldehydeSon that's another great question, so the basement walls in front of the concrete are called frost walls and are considered exterior or interior furring walls. I would use the caulking there. Also these walls should be insulated and vapour barrier (poly) all the way around.
@@ConstructionKronies thanks!
what length of screws do you use?
#8 x 1/2" wafer head, you can get them for light gauge or with self drilling heads for heavy gauge.
@@ConstructionKronies Dude Thank you so much !! your videos are helping to train up my crew to be able to do commercial work !!
I really appreciate the feedback. I do it for that reason exactly!! To help train guts.
outstanding video .My question is that on a 700sqft retail store front would the common height on the ceiling would be a 10'ft ceiling with a 2'ft drop suspendid ceiling installed which now becomes a 8'ft ceiling is that the normal standard height. thanks. chilliwack bc canada
Yes that is very common. The important things to remember is get your walls up, drywall, taped and even painted before you install the drop ceiling. Check your slab for the high point and start from there, make sure you have all your flooring included. You don't want to be under 96" or 8' because it starts to feel like the ceiling is closing in on you. I would try and get as much of that space as I could, like go 9' if you can get all your mech, elect and plumbing in.
what is the 89mm aluminium wall channel used for ?
We use it to stiffen the wall, keep insulation up and keeps our studs square for drywall. That's important because if you don't have channel in the wall you have greater chance of the joints being uneven and it will take a lot more mud to get flat.
What’s a substitute for the chemtron? I can’t find this product in the US.
Looks like a butyl caulk. I’m metal framing a basement that gets some moisture from the basement wall. Just wanna make sure this product won’t hold moisture or get moldy.
The other brand I know of is called Mono, or yeah if you can find another acoustical caulking please let me know!
great video!
Thank you!
Very nice 👍
I use my impact all the time for drywall. "With a drywall tip". Thats all you need then its a non issue. Dont need a drywall gun. I have both btw and have used all for many years.
Sure, if you don't do much drywall that could work. Whatever works for you. I don't recommend it for a lot of drywall. Cheers my man!
Third-world (banana country) citizen here:
The drywall gun costs around $300 bucks, and with the fast charge, it costs around $350.
For me, if I can save 20% of the time, then it makes more sense to have a drywall gun than to use an impact bolt everywhere. Why?
Let's say the salary of a worker is $500 (*) x month x 4 months = $2000 x 20% = $400, so I am recovering my investment in 4 months.
(*) ha, even in a third-world country, no worker will work for that sum, life is expensive everywhere.
Do you have video for framing the ceiling?
I do have a few I'll try and remember to come back and link them for you or you can search for my soffit videos.
th-cam.com/video/c4LC_u-waJ8/w-d-xo.html
th-cam.com/video/e21XFiD4ew0/w-d-xo.html
th-cam.com/video/XHNcG3NMTRg/w-d-xo.html
Bro you always putting out them good videos
What's good
Thanks bro I appreciate you!
AMOS BROS🔥💨💨💨
Hey mate it would be nice to see you use Blum bob 👍
Good c clamps are metal framers best friend!
Heck yes!
Thanks for sharing
Your very welcome!
Nice video ,
Thanks! Let me know if you have any questions!
Why aren't the walls built on the floor then stood up? I'm coming from residential framing.
I started as a wood framer myself. When we are framing a house for example the foundation cap is perfectly leveled out so when we build our walls and square them they are good all the way up. In commercial the concrete and Steel will not be level and even sloped. Steel is more forgiving as well. We can use the track to adjust our heights. In wood the cuts have to be within an 1/8". Does that make sense? We do pre-fab walls with steel stud sometimes.
@@ConstructionKronies Yeah, makes perfect sense. I just assumed the slab would be flat/level but it makes sense, especially given the size of commercial spaces, that they just wouldn't go to the trouble of making it perfect unless it had to be.
great post !!
Thanks so much Stephen!!! Lisa came to my last live stream is was so nice to see her!!
No baker scaffold?
Haha yeah we use bakers all the time, just so much fun🤟
@@ConstructionKronies lol just never seen it done with those huge benches lol. But I wouldn’t mind owning two of those 3 foot benches like that. Would work good for a saw stand table but double for a bench when needed. Keep up the good work.
Great video 👍
Thank man!
We’re are you located?
Edmonton Alberta Canada
Wouldn’t it have been better to fill the concrete crack?
No man, we don't fill the expansion cuts.
@ not even with elastomer material to level it so you don’t bend the steel and weaken it? Aren’t you asking for water to go there and rust it? You know like Quickcrete or Sika non sag caulk or self leveling caulk.
Yo Chris! 😁👍
👍🏽🍻🍺👍🏼
Yo Dave bro!! 👊
@@konamanstudio2447 KONAMAN! 😁🍻
Using a nail gun with no safety glasses. You learn this lesson the first day of class in 9th grade shop class. I'm surprised Hilti hasn't told you to read their instructions before using their equipment.
You know why I hearted you and gave you a thumbs up? Cause your totally right. I almost always wear them, I am surprised I am not here. I usually look for stuff like that in editing. I simply must of forgot to put them on. Good call tho!
Getting 2 birds stoned at once is pretty efficient.
Yo kronie!
Yo yo home boy
Amos🔥
☁️💭😊😊
Hey Amos, I just wanted to let you know that Konaman passed away. He was hit by a reckless driver while walking Kona. I am going to be doing a memorial stream and a may long fundraiser for his families gofundme. Email me chris@constructionkronies.com.
Why didn’t you make the frame flat on the ground then stand it up….
Steel stud doesn't work like that. That's how wood walls are built. We can build panels on some jobs but they are heavy and awkward so unless you have a crane, or a zoom boom your not going to get them up. We build in place, the tools and materials are designed for it.
not much just chilling Amos you can hit me up on Facebook and BJ break
Konkle !!!
What's good man?
You should NOT brace from other braces
When it's temporary, no prob, but I know what you're saying. When nothing else is available you gotta do what ya gotta do! Keep your bottoms square and the tops level, keep checking until the ceiling is tied in and it's all good!
White is the lowest strength
...your constant stuttering drove me crazy!
Yeah I can appreciate that. It's really hard to get good stabilization and when I'm in site I don't always have a lot to film but I'm always trying to improve this. I have some really cool new gear but before I bring a large rig on site I need to make sure everyone is cool with it first. Thanks for the feedback!
👍🏽🍻🍺👍🏼
Cheers with beers 🍻