Right, I have both peacoats, one from Billy Reid (2022 version) and the US Navy WW2 era from eBay. I prefer the Billy Reid because it fits my body and my lifestyle than the US Navy. In addition, the Navy Peacoat is super roomy (due to be able to let the sailor layers to keep them warm) and heavy. I guess unless I am on the sea or some harsh conditions, I would likely to keep the Navy peacoat in my closet as a collection piece.
I spent a ton of time researching higher end peacoats, ended up with a Private White VC before selling for SEH Kelly. I think the SEH Kelly Peacoat is really the finest one on the market. Besides just the construction quality, like the half raglan/half set-in sleeve design, it's the non-traditional choices they made that really make it so excellent. Lowering the handwarmer pockets to a more natural location makes a world of difference. The wool very substantial (27 oz) and the front of the coat is double-faced with wool. Plus they always do a second, non-navy color for those who want some variety. It might be too warm for some climates but I am extremely happy with mine.
The SEH Kelly one is very nice! Thanks for sharing. I have a couple "civilian" pea coats. The Dark Navy Bridgecoat from Private White and Simon Crompton of Permanent Style which is made of 20% Cashmere and 80% Wool , and a Todd Snyder X Private White Charcoal Grey version made of 90% wool and 10% cashmere. Both are fantastic pieces, but the edge goes to the Bridgecoat. I also still have my US Navy Peacoat which is quite a bit heavier than both of these. Fun Fact: When you make Chief Petty Officer in the Navy you can turn your peacoat into a bridgecoat by replacing the black buttons with gold.
Imagine trying to justify putting nylon in a $700+ coat. Insane! The fact that it *used* to be 100% wool and reduced over time tells you everything you need to know. Also, the liner is not just to stop wind, its to reduce friction when slipping in and out of your jackets or coats, thus reducing wear on the fabric. Thats why its always made of very slick silk-like fabrics. Even high quality summer linen jackets still have lining in some places for this very reason.
I bought the Bond Peacoat from the Bond street store 5 years ago (90/10 wool/nylon)... love it.... however it just wasn't good enough for me... don't ask why? - still have it, but wear a JCrew peacoat most times.... it fits me a lot better
I picked up a US navy peacoat that’s from the 80s. I love it and it only cost me about $50. Looks good, warm, and versatile. My only complaint with it is how easy it pick ups loose fibers from other clothing and it’s dark color makes those fibers stand out.
I just spent a week in the mountains with an engineer/architect friend who is OBSESSIVELY anti fossil fuels and he radicalized me against "fossil fabrics" like polyester and nylon haha
Thanks researching the % of wool in navy peacoats matters. So I ordered LL bean 2xl regular black peacoat and it fits me perfectly. I’m 6’2 255lbs chest 48 1/2 inches biceps 20 inches. The coat was perfect fit meaning if I reach 265lbs I will be too big for the coat. Now I know importance of less wool compared to 70-100% wool coats. I have 100% wool
I go no issues with either of my vintage Navy peacoats, both virtually flawless, both less than $100. Don't at all get the appeal of the Rickson (or Reid but that's a style preference)
Well worth finding a full “military specification” seller. Used to be, recently, Sterlingwear, but no longer. However, one can still easily find some on eBay. I grabbed one of these $350 coats for under a hundred bucks. Also worth noting…though I believe the ‘mil spec’ ones are best, be well aware of the sizing. Do your research. It’s worth it as well. (Especially since most will last forever!). I wanted trim…the military cut is trim but not crazy trim…so I opted for a size above for a looser fit for a more modern casual look…..also!…. I carry a concealed carry firearm. So that’s a consideration. Everything is perfect and comfy now. Looks good. Conceals. Feels good. ! Do NOT go without a pea coat in your wardrobe no matter how sparse the wardrobe may be! The pea coat will never let you down!
I think they've pivoted away from selling consumer products (just to law enforcement and firefighters, etc.), but I have a Spiewak peacoat. It's incredibly well-made and incredibly dense/heavy. It's so warm, in fact, that I hardly wear it.
Don’t like the thinner lapels and slimmer fit. Usually I do like slim fit clothing too but for peacoats I think they look better roomier and longer. The Bond jacket almost looks like a blazer.
Great video guys! I like both of the peacoats here. Both have their place depending on how you want to wear them. Mike, I wonder how you'd feel if you sized up in this peacoat. Have you tried it?
Nice Coat. It would be cool to see a review of lesser known brands like Oliver Sweeney that promote their clothing as being quality while keeping costs affordable.
Check out Royale Filmwear peacoat. Close copy of Billy Reed but less than half the price. Iove mine autumn and spring. Will buy a military peacoat (maybe Private White) for Winter use !
I like the Navy design. I can get an original thick pea coat for about 100 dollars. Wool needs to be very thick too to block wind. That’s probably why Billy Reid added the nylon with their lighter wool. The Navy lapel is much beefier and proportional in my opinion.
Do you still have original war time one you got from Iron Snail? I hope you guys do some boot videos. I saw incredible boots from his Instagram that I follow for longer time
I gave it to a friend! We've done a few videos in the past th-cam.com/video/QrDs3W1LKzY/w-d-xo.html but these days he's too busy (read: he hates me and my accent and my face)
I recently got a classic (style 740) peacoat from schott and I love how it looks but it's so stiff it's hard to move with... can I expect it to break in and get softer?
yeah Mike and I both have long torsos too! I just bought some sports jackets and it's the first time a jacket's covered my butt in AGES. it feels too long but actually it's the correct length
Cropped peacoats are an abomination, from a historic perspective its not accurate (if that matters) but it just looks wrong. Triple Aught Design has what seems a very nice peacoat except the center back length is 29.5" for a medium, which is about 2.5" too short.
Same here. I have peacoats from the 40’s, 50’s, and 60’s. Bought both Buzz Rickson’s and Triple Aught Design at the same time. Kept the Buzz Rickson. The stitching is really tight (especially in the inner pit area) and the melton wool isn’t as nappy as other peacoats, looking more like the originals.
@@LastNineBreaker How was the TAD one? I love the details they do, like lining the pockets with corduroy, but the overall length seemed too short for a peacoat.
@@knifenutsdave Sorry for the late reply. I was very disappointed with the TAD. Not enough thickness so it was flimsy. Loose stitching in places that counted. Wool was so nappy it looked like it would pill like crazy, almost like it was already pilling. The fit was also not very fitting, and more suitable for someone shaped like a pear. And the color of the Phantom was actually a charcoal grey instead of blue like the pictures shown. Mostly, though, it was the stitching that bothered me the most. Advertised as double stitched, except on the inner lining that I felt would tear with ease.
@@LastNineBreaker Jeez that sucks, I haven't bought anything since TAD has changed ownership but I assumed something like this would happen. Still so disappointing to hear.
I like the military version better. Not just as a Peacoat, but as a look in general. I don't like the lighter blue, and the jacket looks too small for the extra row of buttons. I think the Bond coat would look better with a single row.
Honestly just buy a WWII pea coat. A real vintage one. Under 250 USD, 100% Kersey wool (tighter knit for more wind and water resistance), fully lined, and incredibly heavy and warm
I’m sorry but a peacoat should not have skinny lapels, no coat should have skinny lapels (unless you are a pencil). The buzz rickson one wins hands down.
So is a pea coat the same as a reefer jacket? I tried Googling it and the different names seem to refer to different lengths of the same basic naval coat but I never see US style guides talking about reefer jackets so maybe it's a UK vs. US thing.
Officers and Chief Petty Officers wear reefers. They are virtually the same in design for enlisted sailors’ peacoats except for the shoulder straps for officer shoulder boards and brass vs. black plastic buttons. Reefers are always black. The peacoat in the video looked to be dark blue. I don’t know if enlisted sailors get peacoats. In my day decades ago, the sailors wore zipped jackets that had their rate and rating on the sleeves.
Thanks for the clarification. Reefer jackets were a standard item of men's clothing when I was younger, I had one and I think it was a fairly basic, practical style of winter coat. I'd never heard of peacoats before but I look at these videos and think, 'that's a reefer jacket' so I wasn't sure if it was a generational change or a UK/US difference.
I actually like the look of the military inspired peacoat more than the Billy Reid. Some of the details on the Billy Reid are nice though.
Me too. It looks a bit flimsy and the cut seems too narrow.
Right, I have both peacoats, one from Billy Reid (2022 version) and the US Navy WW2 era from eBay. I prefer the Billy Reid because it fits my body and my lifestyle than the US Navy. In addition, the Navy Peacoat is super roomy (due to be able to let the sailor layers to keep them warm) and heavy. I guess unless I am on the sea or some harsh conditions, I would likely to keep the Navy peacoat in my closet as a collection piece.
I spent a ton of time researching higher end peacoats, ended up with a Private White VC before selling for SEH Kelly. I think the SEH Kelly Peacoat is really the finest one on the market. Besides just the construction quality, like the half raglan/half set-in sleeve design, it's the non-traditional choices they made that really make it so excellent. Lowering the handwarmer pockets to a more natural location makes a world of difference. The wool very substantial (27 oz) and the front of the coat is double-faced with wool. Plus they always do a second, non-navy color for those who want some variety. It might be too warm for some climates but I am extremely happy with mine.
I took a look at the SEH Kelly, looks great
The SEH Kelly one is very nice! Thanks for sharing. I have a couple "civilian" pea coats. The Dark Navy Bridgecoat from Private White and Simon Crompton of Permanent Style which is made of 20% Cashmere and 80% Wool , and a Todd Snyder X Private White Charcoal Grey version made of 90% wool and 10% cashmere. Both are fantastic pieces, but the edge goes to the Bridgecoat. I also still have my US Navy Peacoat which is quite a bit heavier than both of these. Fun Fact: When you make Chief Petty Officer in the Navy you can turn your peacoat into a bridgecoat by replacing the black buttons with gold.
Imagine trying to justify putting nylon in a $700+ coat. Insane! The fact that it *used* to be 100% wool and reduced over time tells you everything you need to know. Also, the liner is not just to stop wind, its to reduce friction when slipping in and out of your jackets or coats, thus reducing wear on the fabric. Thats why its always made of very slick silk-like fabrics. Even high quality summer linen jackets still have lining in some places for this very reason.
Weatherwool uses 100% wool made in NJ. Highest quality wool and is so soft (no scartch). The problem is is that it’s about $1k.
&Sons do a 90% wool “boardwalk” pea coat that’s “only” £350
I bought the Bond Peacoat from the Bond street store 5 years ago (90/10 wool/nylon)... love it.... however it just wasn't good enough for me... don't ask why? - still have it, but wear a JCrew peacoat most times.... it fits me a lot better
I picked up a US navy peacoat that’s from the 80s. I love it and it only cost me about $50. Looks good, warm, and versatile. My only complaint with it is how easy it pick ups loose fibers from other clothing and it’s dark color makes those fibers stand out.
Love the tales of cheap second hand pea coats
Yeah Im one of the nylon/poly/acrylic haters. It cheapens every product and its toxic for hundreds of years.
Completely agree. Plus his comment about it reducing manufacturing costs is laughable for a coat that costs $800.
I just spent a week in the mountains with an engineer/architect friend who is OBSESSIVELY anti fossil fuels and he radicalized me against "fossil fabrics" like polyester and nylon haha
Thanks researching the % of wool in navy peacoats matters. So I ordered LL bean 2xl regular black peacoat and it fits me perfectly. I’m 6’2 255lbs chest 48 1/2 inches biceps 20 inches. The coat was perfect fit meaning if I reach 265lbs I will be too big for the coat.
Now I know importance of less wool compared to 70-100% wool coats. I have 100% wool
I have it in both navy and black, i love it, it's a gorgeous coat. Been following Shaking Boots for a long time, His style is immaculate
I go no issues with either of my vintage Navy peacoats, both virtually flawless, both less than $100. Don't at all get the appeal of the Rickson (or Reid but that's a style preference)
Well worth finding a full “military specification” seller. Used to be, recently, Sterlingwear, but no longer. However, one can still easily find some on eBay.
I grabbed one of these $350 coats for under a hundred bucks.
Also worth noting…though I believe the ‘mil spec’ ones are best, be well aware of the sizing.
Do your research. It’s worth it as well. (Especially since most will last forever!).
I wanted trim…the military cut is trim but not crazy trim…so I opted for a size above for a looser fit for a more modern casual look…..also!…. I carry a concealed carry firearm.
So that’s a consideration.
Everything is perfect and comfy now.
Looks good. Conceals. Feels good. !
Do NOT go without a pea coat in your wardrobe no matter how sparse the wardrobe may be!
The pea coat will never let you down!
Hey Nick, that BR peacoat looks amazing. What size are you wearing?
Nothing cooler than a peacoat 🔥🔥🔥🔥 excellent video brother!!!
thanks Dale!
I think they've pivoted away from selling consumer products (just to law enforcement and firefighters, etc.), but I have a Spiewak peacoat. It's incredibly well-made and incredibly dense/heavy. It's so warm, in fact, that I hardly wear it.
Don’t like the thinner lapels and slimmer fit. Usually I do like slim fit clothing too but for peacoats I think they look better roomier and longer. The Bond jacket almost looks like a blazer.
yeah it's like half blazer half peacoat! good catch
Great video guys! I like both of the peacoats here. Both have their place depending on how you want to wear them. Mike, I wonder how you'd feel if you sized up in this peacoat. Have you tried it?
Nice Coat. It would be cool to see a review of lesser known brands like Oliver Sweeney that promote their clothing as being quality while keeping costs affordable.
Love seeing this coat from the Iron Snail video again!
Check out Royale Filmwear peacoat. Close copy of Billy Reed but less than half the price.
Iove mine autumn and spring. Will buy a military peacoat (maybe Private White) for Winter use !
Opinions on the Private White V.C. Peacoat?
Ain't nothing like the real thing baby!
Personally I love my Buzz Rickson’s pea coat. If I need something less warm I’ve got plenty of other jackets for the situation.
I like the Navy design. I can get an original thick pea coat for about 100 dollars. Wool needs to be very thick too to block wind. That’s probably why Billy Reid added the nylon with their lighter wool. The Navy lapel is much beefier and proportional in my opinion.
I can't wait for the cold weather to get here to wear mine.
This is the review I hoped existed, now it does.
Do you still have original war time one you got from Iron Snail? I hope you guys do some boot videos. I saw incredible boots from his Instagram that I follow for longer time
I gave it to a friend! We've done a few videos in the past th-cam.com/video/QrDs3W1LKzY/w-d-xo.html but these days he's too busy (read: he hates me and my accent and my face)
I recently got a classic (style 740) peacoat from schott and I love how it looks but it's so stiff it's hard to move with... can I expect it to break in and get softer?
Love the military Peacoat.. Its very functional as it was meant to be and looks sharp! I would pass on the Billy Reid for that price.
I hate when coats are too short, which is such a common trait of modern jackets trying to save on fabric.
yeah Mike and I both have long torsos too! I just bought some sports jackets and it's the first time a jacket's covered my butt in AGES. it feels too long but actually it's the correct length
Cropped peacoats are an abomination, from a historic perspective its not accurate (if that matters) but it just looks wrong. Triple Aught Design has what seems a very nice peacoat except the center back length is 29.5" for a medium, which is about 2.5" too short.
liner is for easy in and out of the clothes... there is much friction otherwise
yeah it's funny, the liner makes total sense and at the same time some guys prefer the inconvenience of a catchy liner
100% prefer Buzz rickson version.
Same here. I have peacoats from the 40’s, 50’s, and 60’s. Bought both Buzz Rickson’s and Triple Aught Design at the same time.
Kept the Buzz Rickson. The stitching is really tight (especially in the inner pit area) and the melton wool isn’t as nappy as other peacoats, looking more like the originals.
@@LastNineBreaker How was the TAD one? I love the details they do, like lining the pockets with corduroy, but the overall length seemed too short for a peacoat.
@@knifenutsdave Sorry for the late reply. I was very disappointed with the TAD.
Not enough thickness so it was flimsy. Loose stitching in places that counted. Wool was so nappy it looked like it would pill like crazy, almost like it was already pilling.
The fit was also not very fitting, and more suitable for someone shaped like a pear. And the color of the Phantom was actually a charcoal grey instead of blue like the pictures shown.
Mostly, though, it was the stitching that bothered me the most. Advertised as double stitched, except on the inner lining that I felt would tear with ease.
@@LastNineBreaker Jeez that sucks, I haven't bought anything since TAD has changed ownership but I assumed something like this would happen. Still so disappointing to hear.
I like the military version better. Not just as a Peacoat, but as a look in general. I don't like the lighter blue, and the jacket looks too small for the extra row of buttons. I think the Bond coat would look better with a single row.
Honestly just buy a WWII pea coat. A real vintage one. Under 250 USD, 100% Kersey wool (tighter knit for more wind and water resistance), fully lined, and incredibly heavy and warm
Too thin and over priced in my opinion. Yours looks much better.
I try not to think about it as 'lower quality', more as a midweight coat that isn't a heavyweight coat, yknow? they have different purposes.
I’m sorry but a peacoat should not have skinny lapels, no coat should have skinny lapels (unless you are a pencil). The buzz rickson one wins hands down.
Good point. However, I do think with the right outfit (like how Bond wore it) it can look good.
So is a pea coat the same as a reefer jacket? I tried Googling it and the different names seem to refer to different lengths of the same basic naval coat but I never see US style guides talking about reefer jackets so maybe it's a UK vs. US thing.
Officers and Chief Petty Officers wear reefers. They are virtually the same in design for enlisted sailors’ peacoats except for the shoulder straps for officer shoulder boards and brass vs. black plastic buttons. Reefers are always black. The peacoat in the video looked to be dark blue. I don’t know if enlisted sailors get peacoats. In my day decades ago, the sailors wore zipped jackets that had their rate and rating on the sleeves.
Thanks for the clarification. Reefer jackets were a standard item of men's clothing when I was younger, I had one and I think it was a fairly basic, practical style of winter coat. I'd never heard of peacoats before but I look at these videos and think, 'that's a reefer jacket' so I wasn't sure if it was a generational change or a UK/US difference.
i kind of made up my mind once you said it had nylon in it.... say no more...
First here! Woop woop. The peacoat is a classic dress casual look
yeah it's funny how it's both smart/dressy and not at all
@@Stridewise Agreed! It looks good with chinos and dress boots or jeans and Wolverine 1000 miles
Loving the watch. Can you talk to it?
Mine is Vaer! It's their green GMT vaer-watches.sjv.io/MmVV23
wait it costs that much and has nylon lol....
Buzz Rickson 100 times better.
Military looks better buttoned. Bond looks better unbuttoned.
us Navy….all day
Both Bond jackets by Barbour and Billy Reid are just glorified fashion blazers. They will not keep you warm!
Hi Nick & Mike, what is the brand of the awesome looking leather bag that Mike’s carrying? I ‘m now following Mike on Instagram. Thanks. 😊✌🏻
Bleu de chauffe's Eclair! We did a video on that too
@@StridewiseNick, thanks. I just checked out that video.
on the right michelin man piccokk