@@DaMitch79 I find it interesting that after researching multiple forums and looking in the official Yamaha manual that nobody mentioned the fact that you would have to turn the exhaust cam with a tool to get it to work.... Especially the Yamaha manual says just "reinstall camshafts".... There should have been a whole section on this procedure! Did you glean any other wisdom you would like to share?
@@meticulousmechanic You are absolutely right - The fact that there is no detailed infomation about the critical process disturbes me somehow - not even in the haynes book i mentioned earlier. I found only 1 video on youtube from a guy going thorugh this on his xsr900 mentioning he had to rotate the camshaft. The conclusion for me is that very few people writing about this prcocess did it really themselves , or just resigned or lived with the off timing i dont know. Maybe they just didnt want to share the knowledge - in fact the CP3 Motor did not change for years so the process has to be the same for everyone doing this . Generally compared to a fz07 there is almost no detailed information about the fz09 doing the valve adjustment . I really appreciate the effort an detail you put into making your videos , there is no place to share any wisdom from me :-) You said it all and even more - i am sure that you will help a LOT of people in the future going through this process ! The only thing i did additionally off toppic is disassembling the cylinder head air induction system valves and cleaning them. I did this cause my fz09 2016 has a really bad starting behaviour once the motor is warm. I red somewhere that it sometimes has to do somethng with the valves sticking together - in fact the valves were really sticky and dirty as hell. I hope this will help - i will check that once my bike is reassembled .
A Pro AMA mechanic told me to always use Red Locktite on motorcycle nuts and bolts. Despite warnings on the label about having to use heat, they are small so can be broken loose using hand tools. As a result, I have been using Red Locktite on everything for forty years with good results.
Thanks for letting me know....it helps keep me motivated. Takes about 2 hours per 15 min video...I spend extra time cutting out the dead space which drops a 22 min video to about 15 min...I also try to make the videos so people can actually see what is happening...
Like the video shows, it can be difficult to rotate the exhaust cam enough. I made another tool with a longer handle/lever arm and then it was easy to rotate the exhaust cam.
After doing this job, I might consider having one for the intake valves too. I had to rotate it ever so slighty. In the video you can see I didn't have to apply much force and was able to gently pry up with a brass shim to protect the Aluminum...I rather not do this again, however, even though I caused no damage. If you have a friend to help at this stage it would be beneficial because I was using 3 hands even though I only have two...if I added another tool plus all the zip ties I might need 5 hands lol! I think this comment goes with the video on setting valve timing. th-cam.com/video/dcaRfLx3_v4/w-d-xo.html
Thanks...maybe at the factory the engine is out of the frame....you could have a jig that holds the cams in the correct postion...then you could just lay the chain where it goes with no fuss...at 14:14 into the video, I explain the mystery of the difficulty...I just rewatched this video which I made over a year ago...the only thing that I would do differently would be to make two rotation tools instead of one...I didn't damage the case by prying with a small force on the intake cam (the part with the brass shim) but would rather have a tool to turn it the slight amount needed.
Had pretty much the same problem. Had the timing aligned, zip tied the chain (but apparently not tight enough), tightened and torqued the camshaft cap bolts, and then realized it jumped off the chain/was sitting on top of it. So now to either try this method, or undo it all and try again
I'm surprised in all my research that no one has mentioned all of this (including the official Yamaha manual) like I discovered when making the video... Makes sense to me to tighten the cam caps down and then rotate the exhaust camshaft with a tool like in the video.... With a tiny bit of help to the intake camshaft as in the video...Otherwise there might be unwanted forces on the cam caps if you were using them to force the lobe down against the valve bucket..they are lightweight aluminum, and probably would crack fairly easily. Thanks for the comment.... Let me know how it goes...
@Meticulous Mechanic will do! The Haynes manual states that you should use the cam caps/holders to align it before torqueing it down, then ziptie. Honestly, had I ziptied tight enough, it would have worked. Though I agree it may put unwanted forces on the caps pushing the lobes. Giving it another go today with your method. I really only need it to move like 2 teeth so hopefully I can get it.
@@lucasa241 There is an official tool but here is a link to a video (if you haven't found it already) that I made on how to make a exhaust camshaft turning tool th-cam.com/video/MAHjNCFnNs4/w-d-xo.html
@Meticulous Mechanic I ended up giving it a go with a wrench on my lunch break just now. Luckily, mine did not give way, so I was able to use it to move the sprockets. In combination with zip ties, I got the timing right where it needed to be, installed the cam chain tensioner, cut the ties, and checked the timing, everything is right where it should be! Thanks for making these videos, it was incredibly helpful as this was my first time ever doing this.
hey man I'm curious if you experienced something similar to me with the cam chain. I got everything bolted down and in timing according to the btdc125 triangle/intake camshaft timing dot with the cam cap line/exhaust camshaft timing dot with the cam cap line, and all my pictures. My concern is my cam chain was tensioned correctly with my APE manual CCT before turning the generator rotor to verify timing marks come back, and when I did see my timing marks in line after rotating engine (which was great to see) my cam chain now has considerable slack in the same spot where it was tight before on the CCT side of the chain. And the other side, away from the CCT becomes tight... one side of the chain is tight in some positions of the generator rotor, and the other side is tight in other positions... I was thinking this may be the way it was operating before I did this service... since I'm doing the first valve adjustment at 35,000 miles... maybe the cam chain has stretch and that causes this? I have the cam chain casing off making sure there was no weird kinks or slack when I got my camshafts rotated to get the chain on the right teeth. what do you think? any thoughts are appreciated.
Let me see if I understand the situation.... You took off the cam chain cover and analyzed the tension on the cam chain before you did anything by spinning the crank.... Then you removed the camshafts and put everything back together and now the chain tension is different?
@@meticulousmechanic i mean to reference the cam chain tension i inspected after the adjustment, and after I installed the cam chain tensioner. When you installed your cam chain tensioner after the adjustment and got it set to a good tension, you rotated the engine and got back to your BTDC125 timing marks. When I did this, I found my timing marks all correct, but I found that my cam chain was loose on the tensioner side after I got back to my BTDC125 timing marks, and it was set tight before I did this. Basically, after installing cam chain tensioner properly and rotating the engine, when I got back to BTDC125 I found slack in the cam chain where there was not before. The only thing I did was rotate the engine and something created a bit of slack in the cam chain but only on one side of it at a time throughout the rotation of the engine. Do you think this could be cam chain wear causing this? It couldnt be a tooth skipped because my timing is good...
You could look in the manual to see how to check for cam chain wear.... Or I'm thinking, and I'm not sure, it could have something to do with being on cylinder one at 125 before top dead center on the compression stroke.... Maybe you're on cylinder two or three and that's why it's different...? Just guessing…..
@@meticulousmechanic thanks a ton for the ideas man and once again thanks for putting in all this work to film. Everything’s good for me after following except this cam chain behavior haha, I’m thinking it’s gotta be the tensioner or the chain itself. I’ll try to figure it out playing with the tensioner after I put everything back together. All timing marks check out after rotating the engine for now. You da man.
Putting the cam chain tensioner bolts in is really tedious. Has to be done one face of the bolt at a time. The wrench has to be removed, rotated, then re-inserted many times. It goes a lot easier with a tiny squirt of WD40 into the bolt head and a tiny squirt on the the end of the Allen socket wrench.
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I went through the proces today myself with my fz09, its really a pain in the A**. This Video helped me really a lot thank you for that!.
Your'e welcome...I know what you mean! Did you have to turn the exhaust cam like I did?
@@meticulousmechanic Yes i had to turn the camshaft exactly like you did
@@DaMitch79 I find it interesting that after researching multiple forums and looking in the official Yamaha manual that nobody mentioned the fact that you would have to turn the exhaust cam with a tool to get it to work.... Especially the Yamaha manual says just "reinstall camshafts".... There should have been a whole section on this procedure! Did you glean any other wisdom you would like to share?
@@meticulousmechanic You are absolutely right - The fact that there is no detailed infomation about the critical process disturbes me somehow - not even in the haynes book i mentioned earlier.
I found only 1 video on youtube from a guy going thorugh this on his xsr900 mentioning he had to rotate the camshaft.
The conclusion for me is that very few people writing about this prcocess did it really themselves , or just resigned or lived with the off timing i dont know.
Maybe they just didnt want to share the knowledge - in fact the CP3 Motor did not change for years so the process has to be the same for everyone doing this . Generally compared to a fz07 there is almost no detailed information about the fz09 doing the valve adjustment .
I really appreciate the effort an detail you put into making your videos , there is no place to share any wisdom from me :-) You said it all and even more - i am sure that you will help a LOT of people in the future going through this process !
The only thing i did additionally off toppic is disassembling the cylinder head air induction system valves and cleaning them.
I did this cause my fz09 2016 has a really bad starting behaviour once the motor is warm.
I red somewhere that it sometimes has to do somethng with the valves sticking together - in fact the valves were really sticky and dirty as hell.
I hope this will help - i will check that once my bike is reassembled .
A Pro AMA mechanic told me to always use Red Locktite on motorcycle nuts and bolts. Despite warnings on the label about having to use heat, they are small so can be broken loose using hand tools. As a result, I have been using Red Locktite on everything for forty years with good results.
Interesting...I hadn't thought of doing that.
Really appreciate these videos
Thanks for letting me know....it helps keep me motivated. Takes about 2 hours per 15 min video...I spend extra time cutting out the dead space which drops a 22 min video to about 15 min...I also try to make the videos so people can actually see what is happening...
Great Work!
Thanks...I was relieved when I got everything back in time...
Like the video shows, it can be difficult to rotate the exhaust cam enough. I made another tool with a longer handle/lever arm and then it was easy to rotate the exhaust cam.
After doing this job, I might consider having one for the intake valves too. I had to rotate it ever so slighty. In the video you can see I didn't have to apply much force and was able to gently pry up with a brass shim to protect the Aluminum...I rather not do this again, however, even though I caused no damage. If you have a friend to help at this stage it would be beneficial because I was using 3 hands even though I only have two...if I added another tool plus all the zip ties I might need 5 hands lol!
I think this comment goes with the video on setting valve timing.
th-cam.com/video/dcaRfLx3_v4/w-d-xo.html
when aligning the cams,surely there must be a easier way. how do they do it in the factory at initial assembly? great vids by the way.
Thanks...maybe at the factory the engine is out of the frame....you could have a jig that holds the cams in the correct postion...then you could just lay the chain where it goes with no fuss...at 14:14 into the video, I explain the mystery of the difficulty...I just rewatched this video which I made over a year ago...the only thing that I would do differently would be to make two rotation tools instead of one...I didn't damage the case by prying with a small force on the intake cam (the part with the brass shim) but would rather have a tool to turn it the slight amount needed.
Had pretty much the same problem. Had the timing aligned, zip tied the chain (but apparently not tight enough), tightened and torqued the camshaft cap bolts, and then realized it jumped off the chain/was sitting on top of it. So now to either try this method, or undo it all and try again
I'm surprised in all my research that no one has mentioned all of this (including the official Yamaha manual) like I discovered when making the video...
Makes sense to me to tighten the cam caps down and then rotate the exhaust camshaft with a tool like in the video.... With a tiny bit of help to the intake camshaft as in the video...Otherwise there might be unwanted forces on the cam caps if you were using them to force the lobe down against the valve bucket..they are lightweight aluminum, and probably would crack fairly easily. Thanks for the comment.... Let me know how it goes...
@Meticulous Mechanic will do! The Haynes manual states that you should use the cam caps/holders to align it before torqueing it down, then ziptie. Honestly, had I ziptied tight enough, it would have worked. Though I agree it may put unwanted forces on the caps pushing the lobes. Giving it another go today with your method. I really only need it to move like 2 teeth so hopefully I can get it.
@@lucasa241 There is an official tool but here is a link to a video (if you haven't found it already) that I made on how to make a exhaust camshaft turning tool
th-cam.com/video/MAHjNCFnNs4/w-d-xo.html
@Meticulous Mechanic I ended up giving it a go with a wrench on my lunch break just now. Luckily, mine did not give way, so I was able to use it to move the sprockets. In combination with zip ties, I got the timing right where it needed to be, installed the cam chain tensioner, cut the ties, and checked the timing, everything is right where it should be! Thanks for making these videos, it was incredibly helpful as this was my first time ever doing this.
@@lucasa241 Glad you got it all workout out! What year and model bike do you have? Did you figure out any tricks on how to make this process easier?
hey man I'm curious if you experienced something similar to me with the cam chain. I got everything bolted down and in timing according to the btdc125 triangle/intake camshaft timing dot with the cam cap line/exhaust camshaft timing dot with the cam cap line, and all my pictures. My concern is my cam chain was tensioned correctly with my APE manual CCT before turning the generator rotor to verify timing marks come back, and when I did see my timing marks in line after rotating engine (which was great to see) my cam chain now has considerable slack in the same spot where it was tight before on the CCT side of the chain. And the other side, away from the CCT becomes tight... one side of the chain is tight in some positions of the generator rotor, and the other side is tight in other positions... I was thinking this may be the way it was operating before I did this service... since I'm doing the first valve adjustment at 35,000 miles... maybe the cam chain has stretch and that causes this? I have the cam chain casing off making sure there was no weird kinks or slack when I got my camshafts rotated to get the chain on the right teeth.
what do you think? any thoughts are appreciated.
Let me see if I understand the situation.... You took off the cam chain cover and analyzed the tension on the cam chain before you did anything by spinning the crank.... Then you removed the camshafts and put everything back together and now the chain tension is different?
@@meticulousmechanic i mean to reference the cam chain tension i inspected after the adjustment, and after I installed the cam chain tensioner. When you installed your cam chain tensioner after the adjustment and got it set to a good tension, you rotated the engine and got back to your BTDC125 timing marks. When I did this, I found my timing marks all correct, but I found that my cam chain was loose on the tensioner side after I got back to my BTDC125 timing marks, and it was set tight before I did this. Basically, after installing cam chain tensioner properly and rotating the engine, when I got back to BTDC125 I found slack in the cam chain where there was not before. The only thing I did was rotate the engine and something created a bit of slack in the cam chain but only on one side of it at a time throughout the rotation of the engine. Do you think this could be cam chain wear causing this? It couldnt be a tooth skipped because my timing is good...
You could look in the manual to see how to check for cam chain wear.... Or I'm thinking, and I'm not sure, it could have something to do with being on cylinder one at 125 before top dead center on the compression stroke.... Maybe you're on cylinder two or three and that's why it's different...? Just guessing…..
@@meticulousmechanic thanks a ton for the ideas man and once again thanks for putting in all this work to film. Everything’s good for me after following except this cam chain behavior haha, I’m thinking it’s gotta be the tensioner or the chain itself. I’ll try to figure it out playing with the tensioner after I put everything back together. All timing marks check out after rotating the engine for now. You da man.
Putting the cam chain tensioner bolts in is really tedious. Has to be done one face of the bolt at a time. The wrench has to be removed, rotated, then re-inserted many times. It goes a lot easier with a tiny squirt of WD40 into the bolt head and a tiny squirt on the the end of the Allen socket wrench.
If I remember correctly, I was able to cheat a little with a long t ball driver to get most of the thread in...
If you were out of timing your valves would hit and the motor would not spin
Correct.... That's why it's a good idea to spend the crank slowly by hand to verify that everything is timed correctly...