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Thanks for the positive feedback... much appreciated!

Thanks for the positive comment! I probably didn't plan to use the caliper it was just there lol. I did "eyeball" the other cut to within plus or minus 1 mm

Thanks...Originally I just needed a stand to remove my wheels for a tire change. I did a lot of research. Track stands were cheaper but limited and a regular lift was too expensive and I did not have the room to store it. This seems to be the best overall compromise... see this video for all the ways that I use it...the various ways are found in the links that I provided in the video description... th-cam.com/video/qv3V_tFmu1Y/w-d-xo.htmlsi=_G0OyFJ4JUca_1ts

@@Yee-ole-benjaminbutton I'd like to, but the investment in tools and learning usually isn't justified unless one does it for a living. Right now I have 40k miles on bike and it runs perfectly....knock on wood lol..... consistent oil changes should hopefully make it run for a long time! Maybe at 80 k I'll reevaluate...if it is losing power

Thanks for the word of encouragement!

About 12 minutes and 48 seconds into this video I explain its purpose.... I remember one comment that you'll have to find about a guy who was having problems with these valves getting stuck which might be related to your problem....

@@bucheeduardo3813 you're welcome! thanks for the positive feedback.

Thanks for letting me know! Glad it helped!

Awesome Italy! Guess that's why they call it the world wide Web.... Anyway, correct me if I'm wrong, but if you drained 1.8 and added 1.7 in your only .1 difference not .5 When I did mine I had the hoses off so there's fluid in those.... Basically you're supposed to get it close and run it for a while and then top it off.... Make sure the reservoir is between the Max and Min lines...

Thanx for your reply...Sorry, maybe I was nor so clear... the difference of 0,5 is between the supposed total quantity as per Yamaha service manual (2,2) and what I put in totally (1,7), that's why I supposed something is still in the engine block and that's why I wanted to know how much you drained off, this notice will allow me to balance the difference with some additional coolant with no dist.water

You're welcome... I just re watched it... I've ridden 15k miles since I did this valve adjustment... so I'll be doing it again in 10k...glad I made the videos so I can remember what I did! lol

That's a good idea! I do that on internally routed bicycle cables. You probably figured this out.... I already had the bike apart for a valve adjustment job...

Thanks... good to know... I'll remember this when I do my first shock service....

@@bushidosteelcraft1677 are you thinking diameter or thickness?

@meticulousmechanic diameter. I'm going to buy a case of hotcams just not sure which diameter to buy. that way I have a full array of sizes for the thickness

@@bushidosteelcraft1677 as far as I can tell from searching the internet and forums that the diameter is 7.48 mm.... I never actually measured mine but that sounds about right.... You could triple verify from the people you are buying them from...

@meticulousmechanic thanks man.

​@@bushidosteelcraft1677you're welcome.... I didn't have to replace any intake shims only the exhaust... I calculated what I needed and went down to a local small motorcycle repair guy and just bought the ones that I needed.... Only had to buy about 5 at 5 bucks each...

Thanks...maybe at the factory the engine is out of the frame....you could have a jig that holds the cams in the correct postion...then you could just lay the chain where it goes with no fuss...at 14:14 into the video, I explain the mystery of the difficulty...I just rewatched this video which I made over a year ago...the only thing that I would do differently would be to make two rotation tools instead of one...I didn't damage the case by prying with a small force on the intake cam (the part with the brass shim) but would rather have a tool to turn it the slight amount needed.

Are you planning on doing the repair yourself or hiring somebody?

Can't say for sure, but if I remember right it seemed like a safety feature to keep the cap from accidentally loosening... So if the cap seems to be on there fairly snug and you have to turn it hard to get off you're probably okay

Thanks... I did put a zip tie on the lever overnight... It just didn't make it into the video

Are you talking about the whole process of checking and adjusting valves?

@@meticulousmechanic Yes. Also do you have a link to the tool you use to turn the crank shaft?

I haven't worked on a gen 3 but I imagine the process would be similar... The first thing I did when I bought my bike was to buy the factory service manual.... That way you get all the exploded views, all the specifics on torque values, and the procedures. I bought the tool that I used to turn the crank at harbor freight... It's basically a breaker bar but the socket holder slides back and forth... Couldn't find the exact link. @@GabriellaMetelits

Carbtune pro

Let me see if I understand the situation.... You took off the cam chain cover and analyzed the tension on the cam chain before you did anything by spinning the crank.... Then you removed the camshafts and put everything back together and now the chain tension is different?

@@meticulousmechanic i mean to reference the cam chain tension i inspected after the adjustment, and after I installed the cam chain tensioner. When you installed your cam chain tensioner after the adjustment and got it set to a good tension, you rotated the engine and got back to your BTDC125 timing marks. When I did this, I found my timing marks all correct, but I found that my cam chain was loose on the tensioner side after I got back to my BTDC125 timing marks, and it was set tight before I did this. Basically, after installing cam chain tensioner properly and rotating the engine, when I got back to BTDC125 I found slack in the cam chain where there was not before. The only thing I did was rotate the engine and something created a bit of slack in the cam chain but only on one side of it at a time throughout the rotation of the engine. Do you think this could be cam chain wear causing this? It couldnt be a tooth skipped because my timing is good...

You could look in the manual to see how to check for cam chain wear.... Or I'm thinking, and I'm not sure, it could have something to do with being on cylinder one at 125 before top dead center on the compression stroke.... Maybe you're on cylinder two or three and that's why it's different...? Just guessing…..

@@meticulousmechanic thanks a ton for the ideas man and once again thanks for putting in all this work to film. Everything’s good for me after following except this cam chain behavior haha, I’m thinking it’s gotta be the tensioner or the chain itself. I’ll try to figure it out playing with the tensioner after I put everything back together. All timing marks check out after rotating the engine for now. You da man.

Whatever you do... do not turn the screw with the paint... Just turn a screw one way and see what happens... and if it's the wrong way turn it the other way.... It's not going to be much of a turn...

Probably doesn't matter that much...they just hold the hoses together and restrict the airflow.... I measured the first cut and eyeballed the second... You should be able to hit plus or minus a millimeter no problem....

Sounds like you're pretty much on the right track.... I'm about to head out on a ride right now so I couldn't totally think about it... I spent a couple days thinking about it and I drew a picture to get it in my mind.... I did mine in thousands of an inch instead of millimeters and I went down to a motorcycle shop which had more options than just the 0.05 mm increments.... I did the math in this video but it's been about a year.... I have heard especially on the exhaust that if you go with the bigger gap it's better because the exhaust Valve gap gets smaller faster over time than the intake... Due to the fact that it's hotter in that area.... I have experienced this with my dr650 doing its valves...

@@meticulousmechanic Thanks. The intervals of 5 are going to put me at either the bare minimum of the exhaust spec (0.26) and the next interval of 5 I can use would put me just over the maximum exhaust spec range at 0.31. Have you ever head of pads that fit this bike inbetween the intervals of 5? Specifically, if I could find a pad stamped 173 (1.73mm) this would adjust my exhaust valve to a comfortable 0.28 instead of the minimum 0.26. You ever heard of pads like this 173 I mention? Or only intervals of 5 everywhere on earth...

@@Jaggy1021 I rewatched my video...if you pause at 1:37 you can see all my numbers...I was using feeler gages that measure in thousandths of an inch because I had more options than with the millimeter gages...the Y means the gage went in and the N means it didn't...if you look in the middle of the page you'll see that on the 2nd cylinder left exhaust valve (2-L) that from the factory it came with a 188 and the motorcycle shop where I got the shims had a 178 which obviously is not an increment of .05....not sure where he got the shims maybe from a different make/model...I'll try to remember to ask him next time I'm in.....most of the other factory numbers are also not in increments of .05mm.. which by the way is 0.00196 inches round off to 0.002 inches. The tolerance is fairly tight on the exhaust .010-.012 inches...a human hair is typically about .003 inches...Maybe this is where the expression comes from..."we are splitting hairs!" If you haven't taken the cams out yet maybe try the gages that read in thousandths and you might be in spec since you are only over by .01 mm with your .31 mm which is .00039 inches...not even 1/3 of a thousandth....let me know what you find out...thanks

th-cam.com/play/PL9a5oWl0x1as8Zf1dRJhJ0teInrhb_qMl.html Go to this playlist and find the video on reinstalling camshafts.... I had to use a tool to turn it....

@@meticulousmechanic I skipped forward and paid attention to your moves there, thanks for that. I still wanted to ask in case there was anything you thought of that might help before getting to that point. Thanks for being prompt to reply, I'm sure the comments supplement others experience while going through troubleshooting things along the way

Did you figure out what the "light ticking is"

Thanks

I don't know the exact size it's an old bicycle tool from 1985 or so..."hozan C-205 made in Japan" I just measured it and if I had to guess one end has a 1-inch diameter approximate and the other an inch and a half with respect to the hook... From my recollection, you would use the 1-inch side.. there are models that are more adjustable where the hook pivots... Let me know if you find the official tool.... Thanks

Thanks for the nice comment!

Hi, What is your procedure for reinstalling the cam chain tensioner after a valve adjustment?

@@meticulousmechanic I clarify that my motorcycle is a YZF-R3, however, the tool referenced in the workshop manual is the same, I use instructions from the manual to adjust the valves, I use a common Allen tool to manage the cam chain tensioner, apparently the system of the FZ-09 is similar, I don't understand why the workshop manual says that we need to have a special tool.

@@andresh77 on the FZ 09, the frame is really close to the cam chain tensioner.... You could use a 3 mm but it hits the frame when you try to wind in the cam chain tensioner in when doing the final adjustment... You wouldn't need a special tool as long as you have room....

Glad you liked it! Thanks for the sub!

@@meticulousmechanic please answer my question on another comment below. Thanks 👍🏻

You're right it does retract for installation... Once you pull the key it's self adjusting as the cam chain wears... It can only go out not in...

Thanks for the positive comment!

You're welcome!

Thanks for the comment.... I just re-watched the video and I'm trying to figure out what you mean.... Somewhere around the 10 minute mark I am showing the tightening sequence.... The left cam cap as it's being filmed is one solid chunk that holds down the intake and exhaust cams whereas at the right they are separated. I believe you take it apart at 125 degrees before top dead center so there isn't a lot of force on the camcaps.... There was only one tiny little gap(about half a millimeter) on the third row of bolts from the left by the middle exhaust valves.... This gap was easily eliminated by the Criss-Cross tightening pattern. This is the valve that makes it hard to turn the exhaust camshaft when setting the timing as shown in part 2 of this video..... Didn't notice enough force to bend a camshaft when tightening.... I read in several forums where people would get the chain on the camshafts correctly and then use the Caps to tighten and push those middle exhaust valves down...but that would crack the caps for sure.... This is why I tightened the camcaps first, then rotated the exhaust cam with a tool to get the timing set per the second video in the series.... Please explain...maybe I'm missing something....

​@@meticulousmechanicI'll come clean and admit I haven't had the top off yet but it's a job for this year when I hit 24k miles. I like to be ready for what I'm likely to find. No matter how many bikes you work on they're all slightly different and you can easily be caught out. Ive been reading through the shim changing section in my Haynes manual and they are adamant the you must start by tightening the bolts above the no 2 cylinder- the ones in the left-hand (ie two separate) camcaps to prevent pivoting the cam shafts about the slightly-open no 2cylinder valves. I believe you started tightening the bolts on the right hand, double camcap. Thanks again

thanks for responding...if anyone is reading this, the video is filmed looking from front to back whereas I think roast chicken 9143 observations of left and right are as if you are sitting on the bike looking forward. Regardless of that clarification, I find it interesting that the official Yamaha manual just says reinstall the camcaps and tighten in a criss cross pattern. The Haynes manual is "adament." I'm not sure what is meant by "prevent pivoting the cam shafts about the slightly-open no 2cylinder valves." From my experience, when I tightened in a criss cross fashion, I did not notice any excessive force on the camcap or camshaft above cylinder 2 exhaust valve....if I did it again, I would condsider the Haynes procedure...maybe after drawing down all the bolts to finger tight, I would tighten the bolts near exhaust valve two more first than all the others but still maintain a criss cross pattern to prevent excessive force on the campcaps which seem to be made of light weight aluminum and could crack easily. If anyone sees what we are missing, feel free to chime in!@@roastchicken9143

Just rewatched my video... You would have to mark it in three places... The two cam gears and down on the crankshaft gear.... It could be a good reference but I would just follow the procedure I laid out... ultimately relying on the camshaft timing marks and the crankshaft at the correct rotation....

Good observation and advice...I can see what you are saying by rewatching my video.... I've never noticed the looseness when I'm riding... probably because of all the downward force of my body on the seat....now you have me curious...

It's good you are thinking the process through before you blindly plow ahead! You have to take the old shim out to see how thick it is, so you can calculate what the new shim thickness will be. There would be many different ways to keep things organized....I used the labeled bags. I did all my calculations, and then went to the local motorcycle shop to buy the required replacements. ..so I didn't have to buy a large kit with different shims that I will probably never need. Then I came back and did what you are suggesting....one valve at a time.....

@@meticulousmechanic Thanks. Yes, I definitely want to think it all through and make sure I want to commit before pulling any camshafts out. For some reason I was thinking all the shims would be the same from the factory. I have to keep watching videos and not get ahead of myself. 😉

@@meticulousmechanic I do like your idea of gathering all the measurements and then just buying the shims I need. Those kits are a bit spendy and with my luck I'd need two of the same size and have to buy more anyway.

Yes...3mm... Found this video one year after I made this video that just came out from Yamaha... th-cam.com/video/TS_Il7D37cs/w-d-xo.htmlsi=fSkqulTq_sBqXEuq I think my tool works a little better but if you're in a time crunch at the end of this video they give the dimensions on how to cut the 3 mm Allen key.... Haven't tried it but it looks like it could possibly work.... Harder to turn than the one I make in this video.....

@@meticulousmechanicthank you, you’ve definitely made reshimming my MT a feasible project. Very good videos

You're welcome.... You probably already found this but all the videos for the valve clearance check and adjust are located in a playlist for easy reference...

@@meticulousmechanic Yes, it is very helpful! 🙂

You're welcome! How did the rebuild go...which year and model do you have?

I don't understand your question ....what are you trying to do and why?

Whoever "they" are is probably wrong... It's irrelevant if the engine is mounted or not because the tensioner just pushes on the cam chain... Maybe they're thinking of some other issue?

@@meticulousmechanicyou are probably right. It is in the Yamaha manual on a small box as a tip. But the manually misses a few things that are important in other areas. I just could not understand the reason behind why removing it with the engine mounted should be a no no. Thanks for responding. Videos are great!

Great to hear…….thanks for the positive feedback!

What is the make year and model of the bike you are working on?

@@meticulousmechanic 2020 Yamaha mt10 , I've checked the service manual and it's very similar to your mt09 , I got mine tuned so no 02 sensors anymore , I've noticed some people think you can turn the bypass screw but because mine is tuned I want to do it right , thanks for the reply

​@@bccapone837I don't know... Did the service manual specify a certain cylinder that is the one you don't mess with? I noticed with my bike I accidentally tried to turn the one with the white paint because I was filming and not paying total attention.... It didn't even want to turn like it was locked tight... The other two screws turned easily.... as the last case emergency scenario.... You might be able to find the one that doesn't turn easy but you would have to be careful and watch where the slot exactly was so you can get it back there if it turns....? I would do some more research before I tried this though!

@@meticulousmechanic no the service manual is like yours it just said don't turn the white screw but didn't mention anything about what cylinder , I won't tackle it until I'm sure what one it is in case I make a mistake , i did read somewhere that its usually the one that the throttle cables and tps go to so on ours it would be the right side one if you were sat on the bike but not sure how accurate that is . So far Ive done the plugs , air filter oil change and oil filter , coolant change and new brake fluid front and rear so I'm looking forward to doing the sync and getting it all where it should be . much appreciate the feedback I'll let you know if I find out what one it was , all the best 👍🏼😎

@@bccapone837 maybe you could find out if Yamaha specifies a certain cylinder at the factory... Hopefully it's not willy-nilly (without direction or planning )depending on what the current factory technician feels like doing... Let me know what you find out I'm curious!

I don't know....I would check service manual for your bike...good luck!

Thank you!

Good to hear!

In the normal level position, at least on my bike, the engine is to the front of the pivot on the abba stand. This makes the bike want to rotate with the front wheel going towards the ground. You can take off both wheels and the fork and it remains the same since the engine is so heavy. I usually use this mode most of the time. I set it up in wheelie mode to do my valve adjustment(see this playlist th-cam.com/play/PL9a5oWl0x1as8Zf1dRJhJ0teInrhb_qMl.html&si=4yN2D8n-B9gDU_fk) and got into trouble trying to get it back to normal mode. I figured out (I declare that it is not safe but works) how to get it back and show the tecnique in this video. th-cam.com/video/qkeKTEywCWA/w-d-xo.htmlsi=8T7e8qFXipBOquLL See the description in this video for links to other ways that I used the stand. Hope this helps!?

​@meticulousmechanic Do you find the bike is held securely enough to loosen torqued bolts while the bike is held up in the skylift? I'm looking to make my own stand similar to the Skylift, and considering a few minor changes to the design to make it more suitable for my needs. I'm just not sure that it will be sturdy enough to do some maintenance and repair tasks in the lift.

​@@WillT1000If you're removing the wheels you'll need to break the axle nuts free while it's on the ground... it's not stable enough in the air.... For general maintenance like lubing the chain and adjusting the valves, it works perfectly fine... I would incorporate something in your design to hold it by the foot pegs(or somewhere convenient not where the swing arm pivot is located) so that you can service the rear swingarm when needed.... If you want more stability I would also incorporate a mechanism to hold it by the front fork and/or rear swingarm when the wheel/wheels are removed....