Extracting Broken Bolts Using An Extractor
ฝัง
- เผยแพร่เมื่อ 7 ก.ย. 2024
- In this video I show you how to use a common bolt extractor to remove sheared fasteners from their threaded holes without damaging the threads.
This is a relatively simple process but I outline choosing the proper extractor and hole size, choosing the proper bit, and cautions when dealing with blind and open holes.
The broken fastener is a splash shield fastener on a Honda Accord.
But the techniques shown here will apply to removing broken fasteners from any threaded hole with a broken bolt.
"Welcome To The Show" Kevin MacLeod (incompetech.com)
Licensed under Creative Commons: By Attribution 3.0 License
creativecommons...
Due to factors beyond the control of Bushougoma, it cannot guarantee against unauthorized modifications of this information, or improper use of this information. Bushougoma assumes no liability for property damage or injury incurred as a result of any of the information contained in this video. Bushougoma recommends safe practices when working with the tools or equipment seen or implied in this video. No information contained in this video shall create any express or implied warranty or guarantee of any particular result. Any injury, damage or loss that may result from improper use of these tools, equipment, or the information contained in this video is the sole responsibility of the user and not Bushougoma.
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Just wanted to thank you for the stop frame commentary. Its a lot easier to hear you since there is no background noise and can pay full attention to what your saying before completing the task.
you do a great video full of info. Something you might like to mention is that using some anti-seize when putting in the new bolt can prevent the breakage of bolt down the road
solid example of how to wisely remove a stuck fastener and the variables that are involved in this process. Thank you, and nicely done!
I used a similar tool to get a sump plug off a Yamaha TT600. I'd tried all the tricks with the tools I had at hand that had worked in the past like drilling a hole across the plug and putting a bolt in it and tapping it undone with a hammer but to no avail. I bought a cheap Frost brand bolt extractor and a new drill bit and it worked like a dream.
Left handed people (like my self) tend to be more artistic, mechanically inclined and also make for excellent instructors. Your execution, details and covering all potential aspects of the process are nothing shy of spectacular. Kudos! Zip~
Somehow one of the bolts on my starter snapped. It's been over 30 years since I tapped a bolt so thank you for this crash course. I feel more confidant now. Pray for me!
That's a nice review. When the bolt is deep inside the hole, there is a guide that can help center the drill bit, which otherwise the biggest problem. Now if I could easily remove a broken extractor, life would be so much easier, ha ha.
Dude, that was awesome. You cleared up so much more than these other videos. I'm going to have your vid. playing while I extract a stripped Allen Bolt form my bike. Thanks, good hunting and be safe.
Works great on Sheared Bolts only. I ran a auto machine shop on the Texas gulf coast for 25 years. The number of broken bolts and studs I have removed is almost uncountable. Also removed many broken easy-outs. Easy-outs should never ever be sold to a rookie mechanic,a DIY and I might add many certified mechanics also.
Errol
Your videos are very informative. The audio voice-over component really adds value many youtube videos in the how-to genre lack. Great job! I look forward to watching more of your clips.
nicely done. ill be trying this on my long alternator bolt that I snapped off!!!!
If the stud is on a manifold, catalytic converter, or exhaust pipe flange. I'd recommend heating the mounting ear until it's cherry red it will dramatically increase the chances of removing the stud.
If a sufficient amount of the end of the stud is exposed don't drill and use a pin type extractor use a bolt extractor like an Irwin 50419. Again heat what it goes through it will help lessen the torque required.
Thank you so much! Huge help for fixing the sheared off bolt from my Jeep's trunk lid lift/support.
I did and got the broken part out. Thanks for your thoughts on the matter.
I've been trying to find the set that's best for my application and this one's looking a lot better than some of the others. I have a rounded out external torx bolt holding my dipstick tube down and I'm thinking that it's definitely best to use a dremel to cut off the head of the bolt to get it down to where it's larger so it can be extracted. I don't think a normal drill has enough torque, so I need either a medium to a large T-handle or something I can attach a rathet to if I buy a ratchet. If I'm careful maybe I'll put a cheater bar on a T-handle and make sure to avoid breaking the extractor, T-handle, or the bolt. A friend gave me a propane torch to use for another bolt so that definitely might make it easier too.
I'm pretty sure that I learned more practical knowledge in this seven minute video than in twelve years of school..
EXCELLENT video. Thank you. Thank you. Thank you.
Great video! Thanks for the education.
great vid if its really stuck try addIng a bit of heat from a torch to the snapped off bolt then try and extract it,,,
and as you say more penetrating oil after you heat it up.,.
In fact if you get a real tuff bolt hit it with the torch if possible for a bit first then try you may not need to have to break open the kit..
at 6:40.. if you feel the extractor crinkle or crunch. stop remove and toss it. likely the next twist you will do will be the extractor snapping.
Excellent video. Well done.
Excellent, thank you
Great video. Very informational.
Great video, everything was explained coherently and with full detail. Subscribed.
The same reason why I wear safety glasses when working under vehicles.
Those flakes of rust you break loose can't just hit the floor they ALWAYS have to find their way into your eyes :-).
Excellent and thorough.
Tons of video on this subject, bout your video was very good and concise, keep up the great videos.
Amen to that!
Very well done. I tried to take out a broken bolt in a motorcycle cylinder head. Couldn't buy any left hand drills so attempted a right hand. The drilling was easy but we thought we should try a small extractor. That started to work but the t handle kept rounding the corners. Drilled a slightly bigger hole but not very deep. Started to turn out the broken fastener but the extractor broke. What a mess. I did buy some Dremel tool diamond bits. With patience, after say two hours I was able to grind away the HSS extractor and drill out a bit more the broken part. I ordered left hand bits, and a helical kit for M7 ( 7mm bolt). Hopefully the helical will hold.
Great video!
Nice video and nice extractor set. With a set like that you are pretty much covered. You have to remember to consider why the bolt twisted off in the first place. If the threads are rusted and it is stuck you may break off the extractor. It never hurts to spray some Screw Loose, Liquid Wrench or some WD-40 on the broken bolt and let it soak in before you try to turn is out. In other words the screw extractor may not work any better than the bolt you've twisted off so have patents. Did someone put thread locker on the threads? A little heat will help it come loose. I think exhaust manifold bolts can be the worst.
Very helpful!
really good and thorough video, answered all my questions, thanks for this
Excellent
No the [D4] light is not flashing on the dash board, l've read a review that there was a recall on that issue for the Transmission slips and it looks like the problem still continue to exist even today on Hondas newer models.
Great Video - THANKS!
Dude, your videos like got it going on! Thanks, man!
good demo !
Nice job!
excelente video
thank you.
great video!
Great video thanks! This happened to my screw where my spark plug boot is.
Step 1: Don't shear off a bolt.
Step 2: S**t.
Step 3+: This video.
funny story is i was installing a water pump on my car using brand new aluminum bolts as recommended and the last bolt broke off, although i made sure not to go past 10nM on aluminum, when i notice that the bolts i removed from the old install were upgraded to steel... shouldve stuck with old bolts fml
Bwahahahahahahaha 🤣
Good job on the video - I've been watching quite a few of these videos and yours is the BEST DETAILED. I have a badly sheared bolt on the undercarriage my Dodge Caravan - it sheared when I was trying to remove it to install a hitch receiver. The bolt started off coming out ok and then just seized and snapped. I'm wondering if you have any additional suggestions for a bolt that is sheared AND seized! Thanks!
Whenever a fastener suddenly binds up like that the best thing to do is hit the threads with penetrating oil constantly while tightening and loosening it over and over to break up the rust. Depending on the size of the bolt an impact electric or air powered can make this less tedious.
As for extracting a sheared bolt heat would be the ideal choice heat around the bolt until the metal is red to expand the hole but that depends on the finish around the fastener if it's painted or plated it will destroy the finish. In your case due to the location of the bolt I wouldn't recommend heat.
Spray it with penetrating oil, let it sit, and repeat this process a few times. If the extractor feels like it's going to break and the bolt still refuses to budge you're better off drilling it out with successively larger drill bits.
Extractors are made of hardened steel and can't be drilled out with standard drill bits so the last thing you want to do is break one off.
Help for 95 Accord! Driver's window will go down fine, won't go back up. You've to pull up on the window glass and press the window switch [UP] to get it back up. The Transmission slips when you go around a corner, it also slips if you're coming up behind some one, you slow down for them to turn or whatever and when you re-accelerate the Transmission slips, then kicks in. When you're going 65MPH on a highway, the transmission jumps and you can watch it do so on the tachometer while it does so.
Would you be able to use this to take off a broken output speed sensor?
awesome thanks for sharing
Are there specific applications where a multi-spline extractor will work better than a spiral extractor (all other factors being equal)? Like, perhaps the multi-spline would be better with a softer bolt material or grade. Very well-done video. Thanks
The multi spline extractor will have more bite on the fastener but the material removal needed to make those splines will make it structurally weaker. The square type tool will be structurally stronger since more material is present but will have less bite.
hi Bushougoma
What's the minimum torque for drills. I'm in same scenario, not sure about specs for drill. Is an 18v 35Nm drill enough? Or is it all about the drill bit and not the power tool? Thanks
i seem to have no lcuk with ez outs.... me and brother both cranked on a no2 t-handle extractor so hard that the brand new larger t-handle you show in this vid just broke before the ez-out broke or before the bolt loosened...
Actually, you should have both types of T-handles on hand; you never know which one you'll need. Rather than eyeball the center of a broken fastener, take an ultra fine-point Sharpie black marker to make a centering mark, center punch it, then drill it. And, if the fastener broke off in a crazy manner (rather than straight across), you may need to "center-up" the remainder (in the threaded hole) by flattening it before attempting to mark it to minimize the chances of hitting it off-center. If the remaining portion is above the hole, it won't be a problem, but if it broke below the surface, you may need to use a circular mini grinder or other power tool to flatten it. If it broke off below the threaded hole, the hole itself may help to center your punch (thank heaven for small favors). As he pointed out, you will get best results with a LH drill bit to make your centering hole. If you only have a RH drill bit available, use what you have. The fastener may be jammed in the hole (one of several possible reasons why it snapped off), or bottomed-out, in which case the remainder won't thread any deeper as you drill it. Try not to press too hard as you drill the starter hole. Use good judgment, work carefully, check your progress before moving to the next step and you will get through this.
You forgot to mention that the IRWIN master extractor set costs about $200.
and...? It's worth it if it works!
Awesome! Thanks
Amazing
If I have a stripped oil pan bolt, would I use the same steps as you've listed in the video? Or do you have another suggestion?
I agree with the other comments that your video is the best video as it was very easy to follow and very informative. Most youtubers won't show you how to do something or are not knowledgeable about how to do something.
Is the bolt head sheared off or is the head just rounded?
If it's rounded they make special sockets that bite into the rounded head so you can remove the bolt. Look up Irwin bolt grip.
***** It is rounded but the problem that I'm having is that it looks like that I may have over tightened the bolt as the bolt and washer looks like they've been welded to the oil pan as they won't budge even when I first started to loosen them. I think that somehow the oil pan got hot and the soft bolt got damaged and the only way to now remove the bolt is to bore it out and remove the threads. Maybe I'm over exaggerating but that's what it looks like to me and I'm no mechanic, lol.
James Chamberlin
The crush washers state is a sure sign of over tightening.
Most crush washers are made of aluminum and are meant to deform slightly to seal. When they ooze out the sides the plug has been overtightened.
You have nothing left to lose in that case. If the head shears off you have to drill it out anyway.
Warm up the engine first as the hot pan will make the plug easier to remove.
The best tool in this situation is an impact wrench they have the greatest chance of success on stuck fasteners.
Without one put a stripped bolt socket on a ratchet and tap the end of the handle with a hammer to simulate the impact. If that doesn't work.
Swap out the ratchet for a long handled breaker bar that will give you added leverage and hope for the best.
Should have seen this one coming although I dont know that it could be avoided. A rusty 10mm bolt on the bottom of my truck. Broke a bolt off today and it would actually be better off forcing it thru to the other side rather than backing it out. Wondering if how to approach this. The bolt is steel and its into an aluminum upper control arm.
If it's a through hole and you have access you can drill out the side opposite the sheared head and extract it that way too. The extractor bites into the fastener when rotated in a counter clockwise direction so it will work.
Spray it with plenty of penetrating oil like PB Blaster and let it sit for awhile so it seeps into the threads before attempting to turn it out. The fact that you have access to the threads from both sides will allow the spray to really get in there.
Normally I'd recommend heating around the hole with a torch to ease removal but since it's a suspension component that has been heat treated that's not an option.
I love the bomb dropping at 7:11
duck and cover
will this work for a intake manifold not that has been torque to 21 inch pounds?
thanks.
its great...
Listen here bro, I'm telling you this is your calling. I have watched eric the car guy videos compared to yours and your videos imho are much more detailed, professional, easier to understand, better info, and you convey the info like a good instructor. now only if you had more videos,you can start pulling some good sponsors and make some bread as a youtube sponsor, like some "others" here, which can be lucrative. please do more
Thanks for watching. I have a bunch of videos already filmed I just have to find the time to edit them.
***** Bob is absolutely right.
Yes you're vídeos are excellent!
ETCG gives enough info to start. but he also covers about everything for car repair.
yay youtube for other detailed videos.
Great videos Bushougoma. Have you ever seen the A-SURE OUT extractor? It can be removed in seconds if it breaks, no EDM or DRILLING. After seeing it, only a fool would use anything else! All materials and labor made in the USA! For over 100 years the bolt extractor has changed in many ways, however the failure of a bolt extractor seems to have been carelessly overlooked leaving all users the possibility of catastrophic failure. Help support an American company. Thank you.
If you are interested in selling these things remove the loud obnoxious music from your video and replace it with a voiceover actually explaining your product.
I read many reviews on Amazon about various screw extractors. Nearly everyone wrote that the square extractors work better than the spiral extractors, which are more likely to snap than the square ones. What do you think?
I've had equal success with both I don't have a complete set of the square extractors only oddball sizes. I tend to use the kit most of the time because it's more convenient.
Technique is far more important than the type of extractor. Use a left hand drill bit if possible if you're lucky it will back the fastener out, lube the threads if they're excessively rusty, if lube doesn't work apply heat to the threaded hole if the part is painted or aluminum don't try this, and most important know the torque limits of the extractor this will vary by extractor diameter.
This is just something you have to get a feel for eventually you'll have an idea when a given size extractor is twisting too much and is about to break.
***** you should really put some grease on the new bolt and clean the old threads before screwing again
Bushougoma,
I have a Vise that was tightened until the handle broke off. I need to remove the "screw" from the inside and there is nowhere for me to get a grip on the "screw." I think having someone do something like you are doing is the way to go. However I was wondering if there was a way to tell if it was hardened steel like you mentioned. Is there a way for a layman to tell this? Thanks
+IIREHII I was referring to the extractor that's hardened not the fastener itself. That's why you want to avoid breaking it off.
You should have no problem drilling through a screw.
You forgot to mention at the beginning that you're supposed to yell out "FML" immediately after the bolt snaps. I find that it does help a little.
GOOD VIDEO! WOO
When you started drilling are you in reverse? with the left handed bit...thanks
Jon Gould Yes a left hand bit only cuts in reverse.
I think "Tap- Magic" instead of oil might be better to lube the broken fastener as it greatly reduces surface tension. Same reason its "magic" for taps.
Easy to do when you have plenty of room but try it on a starter bolt
Bushougoma,
I have a particularly stubborn set of "security" Torx bolts (you know, the ones that look like Torx but has that cylindrical molding in the center of the head) on my motorcycle that secure the ignition cylinder to the bike. I've tried everything to get these bolts out, WD40, PB Blaster, Fluid Film, heat.. you name it. Not much area to work in either.
Today I had a break-through. I finally got an extraction bit to latch onto the bolt but then discovered that my drill wasn't up for the task. Highest torque setting on my drill and I got absolutely no movement, from the bolt, the extractor, OR the drill. In fact, the drill motor began smoking. I took that as a sign to stop trying for the day.
Any suggestions? Is there a minimum torque rating that you would recommend to be using these extractors with?
A drill is really not designed to remove stuck fasteners the smoke was because the rotor was locked brushed DC motors draw an excessive amount of current with a locked rotor and will smoke their own windings if powered for long enough.
I recommend an impact driver for rusted fasteners the vibrations tend to break up the rust and a stuck fastener won't lock up the motor.
The amount of torque an extractor can take depends on the diameter of the fluted end of the extractor.
I take it the fastener goes through chromed or painted parts so heat isn't an option?
If so drill the head off the fastener to remove the part then drill completely through the center of the fastener and try to use an extractor again (often drilling completely through loosens it up a bit and makes it easier to extract).
If it still won't come out drill the old fastener out completely threads and all and helicoil it to restore the original hole size.
I broke a center lower manifold bolt of when putting manifold on a 4.3 litre bravada. Its is the front passenger side bolt. Beings the manifold does not itself have threads in it, is it possible to get the broken bolt out without having to take the manifold back out ?
I take it you're referring to an exhaust manifold? Hopefully you can use the existing hole in the manifold as a guide to drill straight.
Without copious amounts of penetrating oil or heat with a torch (if it's a cast iron block) to loosen it up before using an extractor. You're better off drilling the old one out and tapping it a size up or helicoiling it to use the original size fastener.
If you're careful you can give it a shot just don't force the extractor too far breaking off a piece of hardened steel in there will just make a bad situation worse.
Can this work on suspension bolts too?
I have broken a left handed hex screw off into my piston shaft on my air compressor. if I drill a hole in the screw / bolt. When I tighten my extractor into it, will it remove the broken bolt? When I tighten my extractor it seems that it is tightening in the direction that the screw needs to turn to be removed. I'll let you know what happens.
1234tric Bolt extractors are directional and most are designed to remove right hand thread (counter clockwise to loosen) bolts.
+1234tric Spiral and the hex head spiral style extractors used with left hand drill bits are for right hand threads only. Using them on a left hand thread will only drive the broken piece in farther.
For a left hand thread you use a common right hand drill bit to drill the hole. For an extractor you have a couple options. You can buy extractors used for either type thread that are basically a square ground piece of tool steel, you drive them in the hole and they grip to extract the bolt, or get a set of Torx bits, drill the hole to match the INNER size of the bit, drive the bit into the bolt and use it to extract the broken piece.
A third option that I use a lot, IF the bolt is broken flush or above the surface is to weld a nut on the remainder of the bolt and remove the broken piece that way.
Who makes extractors for a left hand thread?
Hi.....H-E-L-P! I have a Broken Bolt in my drivers seat that i can NOT get out! A friend of mine has also tried, ...and broke about 4 drill bits, 2 or 3 left handed ones, and 2 easy outs.... :( we have been working on this with the seat in my truck and with the seat out. And working on it for about 3 days! :( Any suggestions? Pleeeease.....
nice tools to own especially when working with an appy mechanic. because those bustards fuck up bolts. over tightening
so I took my car to midas and they broke the drain plug so I had to change the whole oil pan to get that bolt off. like an idiot not thinking whatsoever I started taking the bolts off around the oil pan I broke all 17 bolts off in the pan area 02 lincoln ls I was considering doing this but my question is how much would a shop charge me to get those bolts out
how did you manage to snap a bolt in a 1/4 inch worth of threads in the first place? did you put a 1/2 impact to it? ya you did..
should probably put some grease or copper paste on that new bolt.
No friggin way. I've tried using these a dozen times and have NEVER had that easy success.
If the bolt itself is stuck so strongly that it shears off, how is putting a smaller extractor inside it going to provide the torque needed to remove it?
Extractors are made of a much harder metal than the fastener itself.
@@Bushougoma And when they break, they are a worse problem than the broken bolt was.
With experience you can feel when it's yielding and about to break. Just don't go full gorilla on it and you won't break it if you think you're putting too much torque on it you probably are.
where can i buy that kit!?
So when i put the extractor in i gotta twist it to the left??
Just like you are removing a normal bolt.
Busho,
I need your help! The worst scenario came to pass. My extractor broke off and it remains in the center of the snapped off bolt. Arrrrgh.
What do I do?
SOS
Get a punch and try to turn it clockwise to release the tension you'll then hopefully be able to pull it out with pliers.
If you have a welder weld another fastener onto the remnants of the extractor.
Another option is a carbide spade drill bit. These bits unlike standard HSS bits will cut but it's a slow process.
Extractors are hardened but pretty brittle so you usually can shatter them with a punch and hammer.
Where can I buy this
bộ này bao nhiêu tiền, ae nào mua rồi cho gia với
Left-handed bits seeem to be incredibly hard to find. Go to Home Depot, etc. and not only do they not have them, they will look at you like you're from another planet when you ask.
OK, why a left handed bit?
adam adams lefty loosey righty tighty ...
How about putting a little copper-slip on that bolt thread before putting it back into a rusted thread or at least cleaning it out with a tap first?...or you'll end up with the same problem down the line as you had in the first place!........Basics!
91 accord I broke the bolt that holds the pulley that turns the engine half of my bolt is broken in there I tried to drill it but it's almost impossible :((
its way late but youd want to weld on a big nut and then spin it off
Maybe some anti-seize for the new bolt :)
As long as it's used sparingly once it gets on your gloves you'd be surprised how many things it will spread to.
that was a low bar bolt. go up against a rear frozen one and see how hard it is
I've been trying to figure out how ppl are getting their bolts drilled so easily. My bolt barely gets cut by the drill bits. I doubt I'll ever get this bolt out of my thermostat housing. Lol
how do I extract a broken extractor?
He briefly explained what to do in that situation at the 6:18 mark!
We're still waiting for a full detail step by step tutorial on how to replace Brake Calipers, Brake Pads, Brake Rotors, Brake Fluid Bleeding, etc... LOL...
For that job you should use battery powered drill.
+Phen0mable I usually use my right angle air drill it's ideal for tight quarters if you have compressed air I'd recommend it over anything. I was waiting for parts to repair the badly leaking swivel fitting I had on it.
Not a dig, but a comment re drilling: You talk about needing lubrication on the threads of the broken fastener, which is good. Obviously harder to do when you're fighting gravity, as in this case. However, you seemed to have forgotten to apply oil or lube of some kind to the drill bit or the surface of the fastener. You protect the drill bit from undue abrasion (i.e., dulling) if you keep it well-lubricated during the drilling process. Oil also cools the bit while drilling, which will help protect the smallest bits from over-heating, and that can lead to premature fracturing/failure. Another thing: If you've turned out the broken fastener and found corrosion on it, it might be a good idea to clean up the area with a wire brush and place a small amount of grease or oil in the hole and on the new fastener before screwing it back in. This will prevent the new fastener from suffering the same fate. I suspect if you find one fastener "dry" and /or with corrosion, all the others nearby will be in a similar condition. If it's not too difficult and you have the time, it may be worth it to check the others and add some oil to their threads as well. Corrosion will usually be found based on one these three conditions: 1) Environment (the surrounding area is caustic because of operating conditions or the area you're located in promotes corrosion, such as being adjacent to coastal waters or living at the beach); 2) Using or mixing unlike metals, such as mild steel metal parts held together with stainless steel fasteners. In the field of Corrosion, there is a metal hierarchy whereby "common" metals act to protect the more "noble" metals, such as stainless steel. The common metal will sacrifice itself by corroding in this scenario, so you're better off using like metals in this pairing, rather than mixing two or more types; or, 3) Failure to protect the more common types of metals used in construction with appropriate coatings (paint or other anti-corrosive materials applied to their surface) to prevent or delay the onset of corrosion. Metals are in the process of being returned to their base components the moment they have been made into a given metal. You can stave this off by taking the appropriate steps to combat this tendency as discussed above.
If the bolt broke because it's rusted/seized in the hole, will this ever work?
Yes. You use penetrant liberally and sometimes even heat. When you drill it a bolt will loses some of its strength and sometimes shrinks or releases its pressure/grip. When you tap it with a hammer it can help to loosen it.
The better centered the hole the larger the hole can be and the easier it will be to remove. Do not drive an extractor in too hard. You could break it by hitting it too hard and it can cause the bolt to expand and be even tighter. Try a lighter tap at first.
What is with the rubber gloves? Kinda creepy!
john jones This is a habit many should adopt. Oil, grease, and other chemicals you use during servicing are something you want to avoid absorbing into your skin as much as possible.
They also protect you from sharp and rough rusty metal which you WILL encounter under the hood gloves are an extra layer of protection. Working with cuts and scrapes on your hands is no fun.