How To Remove Broken Bolt In Recessed Hole - The Worst Of The Worst Made Easy
ฝัง
- เผยแพร่เมื่อ 27 ส.ค. 2024
- Some snapped fasteners are easy. You can weld to them, or tap them around with a punch, or slot them like a flathead screw, and they come right out.
But what if they're rusted, seized, cross threaded and even worse, broken beneath the surface. Here's the easy way to improvise a drilling jig from stuff you have laying around the shop.
#drill #tap #DIY #brokenboltremoval #howtoremoveabrokenbolt
*MERCHANDISE:
Get Your UTG T-Shirts Here: uncletonysgara...
Get Your UTG Stickers Here: uncletonysgara...
OUR STORE: uncletonysgara...
*SOCIAL MEDIA:
Facebook: / uncletonysgarage1
Instagram: / uncle_tonys
![[TH] VALORANT Champions Seoul - Grand Final - EDG vs TH](http://i.ytimg.com/vi/WvObMc9VelI/mqdefault.jpg)
Been a mechanic for 20 years, learned a lot of neat tricks over that time, but this is a new one for me! I’m going to file this in my brain because I’m sure it is going to come in handy at some point in the future! Thanks!
Boilermaker , engine builder for 30 years and yes , new to me as well .
Thanks Uncle Tony , another beauty .
I normally use a small carbide burr on the rough end of the broken stud/bolt to flatten the broken end , and yes SLOW and STEADY is the key because you only get one chance at this .
30+ years and new to me. I have special sheathed drill bits that set up like this, but I'm sure I will use this at some point. Thanks for the usefull info! Keep it coming
I was a mechanic for 26 years. I have tip my hat to you, that was genius.
After watching a different video where they guy made tools and had special stuff, I watched this one. This guy saved a LandRover from the engine being pulled; saved my client minimum $5k.
I love saving my clients money and this guy has my best wishes.
Nice to see someone actually use a corded drill, no need to mess around with batteries especially if you're near outlets with good access to the work.
Thank you Tony. Not only for all these techniques, tips and tricks you give us, but also for all the times you pump the brakes and bring folks back to reality in terms of wild automotive myths.
What I want to know is why they didn't originally use stainless bolts in the first place. They still don't use stainless bolts. A lot of cars have stainless exhausts, but not stainless bolts in the manifold or in the connections in the exhaust.
Maybe there is some metallurgic reason for it, but I don't know.
@@tarstarkusz Stainless can work harden with heat cycling. This might have something to do with it particularly with fasteners as they hold tension by stretch. I'm no expert in metallurgy - it's just an idea.
@@tarstarkusz Also very importantly Stainless Steel will Gall with most metals. Be sure to use
Anti seize with everything when going with Stainless.
This is why Uncle T is above and beyond all other car people on YT.
I am blessed to have a small metal lathe. I take a solid round as large as will fit in the area of the broken stud/bolt, face the end off flat, drill a small hole for a pilot bit of whatever size I choose and turn a short section to fit just inside the hole containing the broken stud/bolt. This setup works essentially the same as your makeshift drill guide but allows me to use a small diameter bit or even a center drill to start a pilot hole into the broken part. Once I have a pilot hole drilled sufficiently deep ( as deep as I think the end of the stud/bolt is) I can either enlarge the hole using larger drills freehand or put my shop made drill guide back in the lathe and drill the hole in it larger to fit the next size drill bit I intend to use.
I really like this drill guide idea, my left hand drill bits have been helpful at removing seized fasteners, as always thank you for sharing your knowledge
Another good solution to a difficult problem! This is a good idea even if the bolt is broke off clean and straight, because even then it's easy for the drill bit to wander off center. Kudos, bro!
Thank you so much for showing this procedure. God knows all of us that have it still work on cars have been there and done that with broken studs. It can go well or really be a nightmare. Again great educational video UT 👍
Great idea. I never would have thought to use a 1/4 socket as a guide.
if it's a cast iron head you can still weld a nut or a bolt to it, just gotta build it up a little. weld won't stick to cast iron but will to the bolt. that's how i got mine out while the engine was in the car, very back cylinder against the firewall.
Tony I've been turning wrenches for For 48 years and that has never come to my mind lol thank you very much because I will remember this till the last breath brother.peace out..
Reverse Helix drills if you have time to get them. Amazing results for removing broken fasteners.
And like Tony showed us, a guide from some kind of tube or tubes to fit into the threaded hole or over the thread.
Stick welder and small diameter copper pipe or tubing to fit hole. Strike an arc down on broken piece until weld sticks out from block, remove copper pipe, weld washer and nut on stick out. Quench with cold water (temperature shock). loosen slowly back and forth.
Everyone seems to use nothing but a wire welder these days, I say good luck using one of those to weld inside of a small hole...
Oh Uncle Tony, you just do not know how much I appreciate you.
Great idea Tony! To expand on it a bit, use an endmill in that jig of appropriate size first to make a flat spot on the bolt. Now the drill will be less likely to walk off center.
I have a Ford FE block to try that out on. The exhaust studs always break on them. Thank you.
I always love getting crafty to solve stuff like you did here, and with my resto I come across this a lot. Great vids mate!
Great tutorial. I would not have thought to use a deep socket as the basis for a simple homemade jig. Excellent idea to keep under your hat.
Your tips apply to more than just old cars! Thanks Uncle Tony!
Cries in 5.7 hemi exhaust manifolds
@@gerrye114 I own one of those lmao
@@rfvc600r it's not that bad, just common. The manifolds tend to warp and break a stud or two.
Remove the manifold, extract the busted stud, replace the stud, gasket, and manifold and you're good to go
@@gerrye114 I need to get a welder
@@rfvc600r usually don't need one. Some times the stud breaks off with plenty hanging out, mostly sheared level you can use an extractor.
I made a rig like this once, while working on a large boat, at the bottom of the motor with a lot of space. The last guy used a cheap bolt to hold the starter, and it eventually snapped. The guide said remove the engine. We said nah, we will just take two elbow socket extensions and piece of steel to brace both extensions, and one person held the the socket and guided the drill bit, the second held the rig up and slowly applied pressure until the bolt spun out.
Great trick to get a square-on start. Left-handed drill bits can also be very helpful. Because they run in reverse some times they will actually unscrew the broken end right out.
Excellent video Tony (as usual). I’ve done that before, but it’s great to see you do such a good instructional video on the subject. The only things I would add is use a freshly sharpened drill bit (or a new one if you don’t know how to sharpen them), and use a bit of cutting oil or WD40.
Oh, by the way, your video is 4:40 in length - you are a dedicated Mopar man 😃
Slow and steady wins the race. In this case literally.
This is exactly the type of content TH-cam should be pushing more. Thank you!
Great tip, Thanks Tony 👍
Working on replacing a exhaust manifold. Had 3 bolts snap off and was about to pull the head. I'm definitely going to give this a try first though. This is brilliant!
Thanks, bro... I'm not done yet, but I just used your socket/jig trick and drilled the perfect pilot for this extractor I'm using.
I’m not sure this is going to help me with my tractor, but you seem like a real cool dude. 👍
I love these videos Tony! This is where experience shows.
Great advice. Wish I had it when I was younger. Like a few years ago... nevermind, don't wanna talk about it
Those jump cuts had me worried I was finally stroking out.
That’s genius. I’m researching for a project tomorrow, so glad I found that tip
Thank you UTG
Im going to go out and get a bolt thats broke off in a snowmobile crank shaft doing this.
The bolt Uncle Tony is working on is one of the ones that the steering column runs right past. If you have one of those with a broken bolt in the car...fun stuff!
The trick is using the quarter inch sockets as a drill guide. Very nice
Great tip Tony. I've made several jigs to help hold a drill bit or cutter steady. Just think what you need to do, and what to avoid happening. Then go at it. Yes I've screwed a few things up. Thats how you learn.
Another great tip & trick from Tony!
Fantastic tip Tony. This is why l watch this channel, that and how you know how to do a real old-school burnout.!
Thank you for the tips. Have to extract a broken 17mm head bolt from a Subaru. Hopefully I can get it done.
Great video as always and super informative and an awesome idea !! Funny thing is This has happened several times you post the video I need right after I complete the job, Then I normally say to myself oh I should have checked that more thoroughly
Reminds me of my attempt of extracting a timing cover stud off of a 350P. An alternative that I did was going to a hardware store for an assortment of metal dowel pins (like that of a hinge). You can then collect an assortment and the slot on the dowel can be used to compensate for gaps & sizing. Glad to see I am not the only one who thinks of such solutions!
Great vid Tony. Really well explained and concise. Will come in handy for sure
Literally today I had 2 very small bolts break of in the same way in an aluminum casting. Your video came right on time.
Thankyou Uncle Tony, I have been enjoying your videos lately showing us tips and tricks, plus going back to basics. Keep up the great work.
Thank you for this idea, this might possibly save me! I broke off a very corroded bolt below the surface on a boat motor, very similar situation there, I'm going to try this to drill it out.
{ have just that same issue with just that same head . Been waiting for years to figure out how to get that dang thing out. Thanks huge Unc.T.
Damn. I needed this last weekend.
Tony you're a National Treasure and the camera work is great.
Yes it works just as Uncle Tony says. drop of KROIL into "well", taped off block, created jig. Main cap bolts are 7/16-14, used a 1/4 left hand twist drill bit from Century Drill Company with a smudge of cutting paste on the tip. Went slow and minimal pressure until the kick was gone. Gradually applied pressure kept rpm low. Stub of bolt backed right out. No need for using a sprial extractor. 15 minutes soup to nuts. I used a cow magnet (any type that are strong will work) placed next to hole to minimize any metal shavings going rogue. As Cow magnets are cylinder shaped and easily fit into bolt well, paused a few times to extract the metal shavings.
Saw a video somewhere where the guy had bolts with a hole drilled through the center. This allowed him to screw the bolt into the hole, then using a drill bit that matched the hole in the bolt drill a perfect centering hole into the broken stud.
You rock Uncle Tony. I’m going to try that on the intake manifold on my 300. Both EGR bolts broke off. One is below the surface.
This is amazing advise, especially someone like me with a little bit less expensive building engines and looking to get into it, thank you for this!
To prevent drill bit wandering best to drill into the broken stud in reverse at first to create a divot and then put your drill in forward and drill into the stud
Utg I’m either 1 year ahead of your videos or your videos are 1 year to late. I painted my engine spray bomb. Drilled out exhaust stud… also drilled into my head, machine shops can do anything for money lol. Everything I wish I knew is now being made.
Sweet! Great tip & Love your videos, keep them coming! Godspeed from The Yakima Valley in Washington STATE
Wow, simple but awesome idea!
Thank you thank you thank you. If the broken bolt is in a tight space sometimes using your idea with a right angle drill will put you in a space you could not otherwise access. I have an old battery powered drill I keep around solely for these uses.
My hands were sweating!!!! Omg. Thank you tony. 🙏🏻👍🏼
48 years a mechanic and I never thought of that one!
Thanks for sharing this. I have a broken bolt on my old International tractor, it is jagged.
Great stuff UT! I just broke a starter bolt up inside my block. I almost gave up because its up on jack stands and a tight go because of headers.
Thank you my friend this will definitely help me on my journey! Keep up the good work and thank you for sharing your knowledge and wisdom
LMFAO 🤣🤣🤣 man I have been there,just the way Tony describes it..that is the worst of the worst.I actually repaired a block where the customer broke off an EZ out in the stud.
Wonderful fix, your "tool" is ingenious. I felt this pain on the same LA exhaust ports. Had to take head to machine shop. Thanks Much Tony
wonderful Uncle Tony
Thanks for this outstanding tip Tony. Dodge head, return tube bracket bolt. sigh
Thanks for the tip Uncle T!👍
Great idea using the small socket. Thanks Tony
I picked up a set of 1/8" carbides. I used them to remove about 12 broken exhaust manifold studs in chasis on a Trion v10.
I've had such a rough work week due to defective parts right out of the box, even thinking of watching this is giving me anxiety lol. I'll add it to my watch later, looks like good info.
I'd thought about a socket
But adding a nut is a great idea
Brilliant 👍👏👏👏👏👏
his drill batteries are never dead
Excellent, I just love learning a new technique, and this one uses stuff that’s readily at hand.
Thank you for the great tip! Had never heard of that one.
Uncle Tony I like the fixture setup it's quick and it's dirty and it works. But what I found works even easier especially while you're doing it under the hood there's not much room even on the newer hemi trucks where they snap manifold bolts constantly. Did you take a Dremel with an 8-in carbide tip used for grout. Take your time and it will eat that bolt within seconds. Also works fantastic for Harding stuff like when you snap and easy out or a drill it will chew right through that. Hope that helps if you ever break an easy out or get in a real tight place. 👌
* you take a Dremel and 1/8 inch carbide bit used for grout* damn talk to text 😆😆
I keep a wood workers drill guide block coated in cutting oil, in the garage tool box. It's a block with a bunch of sleeved holes in it to drill holes square to a surface. There is always some casting in the way so wood shims and tape to square it up and hold it all in place.
This is an excellent tip. Always learning something new from Uncle Tony
Never thought of that approach to it but it seems like a really sound idea. I'll have to remember that one.
I never heard of this method. Thank you Tony. I have a feeling that i will be putting this to use at some point in the near future.
another good one Uncle Tony👍 thanks
Awesome! A great learning experience!
Great job on training
Uncle Tony,
could u think of anything worse than that ?
one of the best tuts ive come across for savin the mech's life over a bolt
👍👍👍
Thank you very much for your videos you are awesome and I love the way you explain stuff. I have a 1983 F250 XL 4X4 with a 460 and fuel tanks and a electric fuel pump in both tanks with a 650 holly. Can you make more wiring videos please. You are great. Thank God for you being here.
Very good, UT. Truly helpful.
Left hand drill bit set is handy in this situation also. Some time you get lucky and it will back the bolt right out.
Like jig idea. Before drilling out I would heat broken bolt with torch till it turn cherry red then take left hand bit and try most of the time It would walk right out. Have done up to 3/8” dia with mapp gas. Larger I add The benzo Matic oxygen bottle.
Nah, I've used a pencil grinder to get a pilot hole started, then drill bits work just fine.
They actually make guide plates for drilling out exhaust studs. If I did them often enough I'd definitely buy.
I was wondering about using a grinder to start the hole.
I have to agree. It would be my first move. Easier than dulling or breaking drill bits till you have an accurate hole started, and way faster.
Then again, most people don't have an old tackle box with an assortment of grinder bits inside. There was a time I didn't. When I began my first resto project I didn't know a fraction of what I do now, and I'm not bragging. Still learning all the time. Failure is my greatest teacher. That's the audience Tony is targeting, and may God bless him for it.
Damned smart solution! I thank you and my Harley thanks you!!
Head $300 , long shank socket $3 , knowing what to do with it, Priceless.
Im all about low buck... But having a rack of those ( i dont remember their correct name ) center punches in all the bolt sizes has saved many a day by ensuring i had a perfect starting point. An old school mechanic gave them to me eons ago, so no idea what they cost, but Im pretty sure theyre worth it!!👍
Thanks,...it worked. patience, patience, patience. Oh,...and no beer till its done !
That's a great tip! Thanks for sharing!
Whenever I have to work on old or crusty parts I heat them up with a small propane or acetylene torch first makes everything easyier clean it up and put nice greases on the threads or use new fastners
You forget to use a left handed drill bit . I've had a set for many years . Very handy .
Filing this tip away as I'm sure I'll need it someday. Thanks!
You're a life safer, thanks so much! P.S. Your workshop is ridiculously clean 😄
Uncle Tony, :new vid suggestion
can you make a vid regarding 2 barrel to 4 barrel conversion.
And the requirements for it while mostly retaining stock components/linkages? Cam on 4 barrel cars vs 2 barrel cars and what not.
Love the vids being pumped out, much appreciated.