I just got a set of VW Golf Allowed wheels and they're just a little to small for my Toyota Corolla and I wasn't sure what I could do. Until I seen your video. Thanks mate.
Fabulous! I have a set of Ford wheels and outstanding Conti tires, thought would fit a Volvo. Only 1mm or so difference and I didn't know how to mill it concentrically enough. Solves a lot of problems for me! Thank you for taking the time to do this.
@@Dentinvent I totally get that. I have wrestled with this for a month or more - I know you cannot do it freehand with any accuracy and the bolts will not center it adequately. I showed your video to my dad, who was in a past life a railroad machinist, and asked, "what do I need to buy to do this?" - He laughed and said, "Oh I have that dado bit and all that, let's do it tomorrow." Oh joy! So I agree, don't just go freehand at it. But many people have the router or can figure it out. Thank you for breaking the logjam.
@@JK-jt5qh See how fast it was done in the video. Just be careful ( measure twice and cut once ). Remember the router is only moved in the direction where the big will cut into the wheel . Don’t move the router in the wrong direction or it will jump . Your dad will know . Let me know how it goes .
Thanks James . I saved a ton of money too. My wheels are still working well. The set of 4 Lexus wheels came with tyres and I paid hardly anything for them so I didn’t want to waste money on a machine shop.
The only way to be dead certain is take it to a machine shop with a lathe . This method will centre it to the actual wheel though . I think this method is pretty close to perfect .
Wow great vid! I just got a set of nicer fifteen52 wheels with too small bore diameter, and was scared that I would have to drop a couple extra 100 on getting them machined. I already have a bit and a router! Thanks!
Just used a hole saw to cut a good chunk out of my center bore. I used a large drill press at my old high school since I’m still close with my shop teacher. Works great.
@@Dentinvent and don't plug-in a router with the power switch on! My boss years ago did that and the router shot off of a table while just missing my thighs. That was the start and end of his "router safety lesson" :)
Hi De! just spotted your craftsmanship an universal means of wizardry, you truely are magic after all true knowledge has no limits nor boundaries you work with the tools you have an create pieces of art! you know how you made that centre tool for painting rims use that strategy with opening the bore diameter. get a round flat piece of steel 3mm thick with a centre hole in the centre that exceed your limits weld bolt threads on the other side to match your stud pattern find some old large pipe or even empty gas bottles make up multiable circular selves about 5mm high weld-on 4 threats on the outside... cutup 4 bits of 3mm small "c" channel cut out a channel at one end the width of your threads on your selves until 80% weld them on matching the distance of outer threads on your selves around your circular plate with the stud threats... you just made a jig that you can bolt up to your rim put on the circular sleeve you need to match router an alloy centre bore you want to oversize.. aline 2 sides of your router against the inner sleeve an around you go " you'll have a true centre.. regards.
Hi was the bit a straight cut bit or trim cut bit has am looking todo this and engineer firms wont touch my alloys because they are brand new. Many thanks
The router bit is called a “flush cut bit” . It is used to trim for example laminate flush with the edges of a table . The end has a roller bearing so that the blade fits flag to the edge ( when the bearing rests on the table edge ). I removed the roller bearing and used the blue plastic sleeve to make the top smaller than the bearing . This this allowed me to router deeper than flush. The plastic which is smaller in diameter to the roller bearing , is determined by how much rebate you want . Hope this makes sense . Good luck .🦷
I am doing this tomorrow. The rims I got had a bore of 54.1 my car is 59.1 . You can get router bits with a bearing guide and in my case the blade will stick out 2.5 mm.
Nice job man .i bought some rims recently and guess what they did not fit they dont go all the way in !! The center bore hole on those rims are small and the ones on my truck are a lil bigger what can i do???
I would lube the car hub then fill the gap with jb weld and place the wheel back on with the studs to centre the wheel and fill the gap . Make sure jb weld does not get between hub and the wheel. Remember there is no force on the jb weld when wheel is secured .
It should work . Make sure you really lube the hub. You could even use alfoil or plastic cling wrap but you will get some wrinkles ( in the jb weld as well as your face ). Actually the cling wrap is probably safer so you have a small gap to get the wheel on and off .
Only problem is I got a flat tyre and the tyre stuffed up and was worth more than I paid for the set of 4 rims and tyres ! The Lexus wheels ideally need Lexus Toyota nuts which are flat but I still used the Honda tapered nuts so you have to make sure the nuts are exactly centred so the wheels sit properly .
Forged wheels offer several advantages. The manufacturing process results in a stronger wheel by eliminating cavities, porosity, and shrinkage. Due to its tighter grain structure, forged wheels are also mechanically stronger but since they are still aluminium, this technique should still work.
Good luck . I’ve never had a problem with those wheels. With the Toyota Lexus wheels on a Honda just watch out for different wheel nuts . Toyota’ like flat wheel nuts and Honda had tapered nuts but if you are careful you can still use Honda nuts on Toyota wheels . If you have different branded cars or wheels , just check out the internet for differences.
How did you manage to get the hubcaps to fit bro? I want to do this as my bore is little smaller than the hub on my truck. The engineering shop will do it but i want to know if there is anyway to use the hub caps
@@Dentinvent little confused here. After rebore the Centre bore increases in diameter. Doesn't that mean the the hubcaps for the same specific wheels will not fit anymore since the diameter has increased
@@KaifKhan-fw7fvhe didn't cut all the way through, only 6mm deep on the inside (back) of the rim... The part that touches the rotor. So the front of the rim is still stock, which means the center cap with the Lexus symbol still fits.
Ok now riddle me this 🤔 what if the alloy rims you bought are said to fit but the stud holes are too narrow by a hair and won’t mount on the spindles.. now what because I’m stuck with rims I can’t return cuz i mounted tires already assuming they were going to you know.. fit? Lol
Sounds like the wheels you bought are not suited for your car . Best options are to try and sell the wheels and tyres or see if you can find adapters ( second option may not be possible ). I think you may be learning by experience here .
@@mikecorleone6797 Sounds really terrible . If you bought them new , surely they should have a refund policy ? You just lose your tyre fitting costs which is better than losing everything.
All alloy wheels are aluminium. They don’t have steel wheels that look like this because they would be too heavy . The steel wheels are the cheap rims that they usually paint black or they have chrome look plastic hub caps attached to make them look like alloy wheels. In other words, most wheels that are nicer are alloy aluminium and the router bit will cut through easily .
Any tungsten carbide bit of the correct shape and size will cut aluminium easily. Be careful to make sure you push the router so the blade cuts into the metal. If you cut the opposite direction , the blade jumps .
The bit was just a standard woodworking bit called a rebating bit . It cuts a shoulder at a certain depth . The depth was greater than I wanted so I added the blue plastic sleeve to reduce the depth of the cut . I don’t have a photo as I made it years ago and don’t have it now . You could find a proper router bit that cuts to the exact depth you want . If it has a bearing , it would cut smoother than the one I used .
These are aluminium wheels . Aluminium is a soft metal and the router bits do not get damaged when they are used in the aluminium alloy. Just be a little careful to make sure you move the router in the cutting direction of the blade and not the other way or the router can jump.
Yes I used regular wood cutting router bit. Aluminium is soft and the bit looked the same after cutting the wheels . Many bits are tungsten carbide tipped . Just be careful not to trim too much off.
I would still try and find a router bit with a central guide but only a 1mm step . If you cannot find one with a one mm step, you pack out the central guide so the offset is down to 1mm. Hope that makes some sense/ The actual wheel is a bit large to put in a lathe but that is the better way to do it .
Exactly true. You can actually use proper Lexus flat nuts and get spacers to get the studs to fit exactly but I used the tapered Honda nuts carefully tightened and they self centre . You really know if they are not centred when the steering shakes .
@@Dentinvent once lined up did you remove the tapered nuts one at a time and then fit the flat nuts? If you are running the tapered nuts on flat seats you only have the edge of the hole as a point of contact, a big enough bump would be enough to shock the nuts loose and allow the wheel to move.
I used the tapered Honda nuts but did them up each a bit at a time . If they are torqued high enough they never slip . When I first put them on I had one wheel not correct and then I learned quickly to carefully put them on. I did buy a set of flat nuts to suit but the centres were too narrow and I never got around to making spacers so I always used the tapered nuts and no wheel has loosened .
I’m sure any wheel machining shop would do it for you but the cost may be high . This video shows diy to save money . If your don’t feel confident, maybe take it to a shop .
@@Dentinvent Thanks, I read that post. I guess I'm not very knowledgeable on how routers work. I was just wondering how you would make sure the tool was cutting to the specific measurements. Is it a matter of adjusting the length of the bit or did you mark anything off with a pen?
@@dylanhamel88 Like woodworking, I actually did fine micro adjustments and took off small increments at a time until I reached my ideal measurement. I then locked those measurements on the router stops.
I wish you could do mine. I bought a set of 99 eclipse wheels (5x114.3) for my 02 Malibu (also 5x114.3) but you wouldn’t believe what happened lmao. I don’t know all the measurements of the bore and everything but I know I wasted $80 unless I can find a way to do this. I don’t have great access to tools & equipment so I might just be at a loss. Would you happen to know a place that does this that won’t cost an arm and a leg?
If you are desperate I’d even try buying a router bit and spin it in a drill. The alloy of the wheel is not very hard to trim. The bit shouldn’t be too expensive and will cost a lot less than getting someone else to do it . Cheaper than an arm and a leg.
Just use a tungsten carbide bit that is used for woodwork and that will cut through easily without damaging the bit. If you haven't used a router before, be very careful as it only can be moved in the direction that the blade cuts through . That is, you cannot move the router in the wrong direction or it can fly back. I would trim a little at a time to make sure you don't take too much off.
You measure the centre bore of the original, use the measurement you want to reach , take away the original bore from the size of the bore you want and divide the measurement by two . For example if your bore is 10 and you want it at 11 , 11 minus 10 divide by two equals 0.5 . The measurement is the amount of rebate that you want your router but to be cutting away . Hope that makes sense .
The wheels run perfectly . They are Lexus wheels on a Honda so ideally should have Lexus / Toyota flat wheel nuts rather than the tapered Honda wheel nuts . I had the wheel balance redone and they are perfect.
@@Dentinvent I have a lexus isf wheels and did the same thing as you did. And I'm a well installing those on my 9th gen accord. And thank you for the advice. I'll make sure to grab some lugs from the scrap yard 😂
aref Great to hear . I got my Lexus wheels with high wearing pirelli tyres so it was definitely worth doing and they look great too. Hope yours look good .
It actually runs really well. The nuts are Lexus and flat ones but the Honda nuts are tapered so you have to make sure you have the wheel locked into the right position or else the wheels are not correct .
Originally had some 20 inch wheels when I bought the car and seller had a full front end replacement kit with the car but it turned out that the suspension was good and the noise was the wheels rubbing . Changing to 18 inch wheels fixed the front end noise .
Hi Marius, The machine is a standard woodworking router . In this case it was a hitachi TR12 variable speed router . Any type of router would work ( or should I say wood work pun intended ). Let me know how you go. The alloy is quite easy to cut.
How possible do you think it would be to increase center bore size of my wheels from 66.1mm to 67.1mm? Its such a small difference. Maybe I should use something less intense?
@@DentinventI have a similar problem with rims that are 60mm and a bore size of 67.1. Metal rims. Any suggestions on how to proceed? Tools to grind? They're lug-centric.
@@jamest7727 If you want to increase the wheel to fit from 60 to 67.1 you need a router but that cuts a lip of 3.55 mm . This will cut a 3.55 mm width groove to increase your diameter 7.1 mmm. Hope I understood you correctly
Did you not watch the video to understand that the wheels don’t fit on the car as they were from a Lexus and I was fitting them to a Honda ? If I found a set of Honda wheels that looked this good and had Pirelli tyres for AU$80 then I would not have done this procedure .
Dentinvent yeah nah don't get me the wrong way. I'm just doing my research because i just bought a 2nd hand wheels but my tires are poking out by one inch. that's why i'm asking. sorry though
One inch is a lot man! If you cut the bore deeper it will decrease the amount sticking out but then I’d also add some wheel arch flares or you’d have to get the wheel arches rolled out more . Good luck .
Milky Way yeah weigh up the cost and off too costly sell those wheels and use that as a learning experience. There is a lot to research when buying aftermarket wheels . I even tried Honda S2000 wheels on this Honda Odyssey and they didn’t fit .
I would only use this technique if there was no engineering machine shop near me to do the job. If the hole is not the correct size the wheel will not be centered on the hub and the wheel balance will be affected. Wheel balancers use the centre hole to locate the wheel. Not worth the risk to life and limb. It could also invalidate your insurance if it leads to an accident or worse. Just saying.
@@herbiemitchell9156 If it was 40 Euro that equates to AU$62.26 per wheel. I bought my set of 4 wheels with Perelli tyres AU$80 for the whole set . Bargain wheels so I didn’t want to spend any more money relative to the wheel cost .
Sketchy. Needs to be done on a lathe to keep the center bore actually centered. Tires are cheap if you buy online. I get a set of 4 255/35/20 for around $320 american.
This method relies on the previous bore to be centered, which most already are. Less sketchy than you might think, especially if the rim uses a tapered or ball seat for the lugnuts, that will help center the rims......like many vehicles already use. However if you have a flat seat rim (like older Lexus rims) you'll have to be a bit more accurate and precise, but it's still not as bad as you might think, although I would knock some of the corrosion off just to be sure the guide bearing (plastic sleeve here) works well.
@@Xixu.co.6 I bet the Toyota wheels were flat seat style. And if the wheels weren't messed up too bad you could have a shop with a lathe bore out centered space for a concentric hub ring to fit your Nissan.
I just got a set of VW Golf Allowed wheels and they're just a little to small for my Toyota Corolla and I wasn't sure what I could do. Until I seen your video. Thanks mate.
Saves a lot if you got wheels for a good price or wheels that you like the look of .
Fabulous! I have a set of Ford wheels and outstanding Conti tires, thought would fit a Volvo. Only 1mm or so difference and I didn't know how to mill it concentrically enough. Solves a lot of problems for me! Thank you for taking the time to do this.
My brother tried doing some wheels using a dremel and he says it took 4 hours per wheel ( and it was done freehand so not very accurately).
@@Dentinvent I totally get that. I have wrestled with this for a month or more - I know you cannot do it freehand with any accuracy and the bolts will not center it adequately. I showed your video to my dad, who was in a past life a railroad machinist, and asked, "what do I need to buy to do this?" - He laughed and said, "Oh I have that dado bit and all that, let's do it tomorrow." Oh joy!
So I agree, don't just go freehand at it. But many people have the router or can figure it out. Thank you for breaking the logjam.
@@JK-jt5qh
See how fast it was done in the video. Just be careful ( measure twice and cut once ). Remember the router is only moved in the direction where the big will cut into the wheel . Don’t move the router in the wrong direction or it will jump . Your dad will know .
Let me know how it goes .
Really needed to see this as i was looking wide and far for a solution and didn't wanted to spend 600£ on adaptors
Great . Really quick procedure after initial set up . My wheels haven’t fallen off yet . 🙂
Wow you just saved me a ton of money thanks for this Video
Thanks James . I saved a ton of money too. My wheels are still working well. The set of 4 Lexus wheels came with tyres and I paid hardly anything for them so I didn’t want to waste money on a machine shop.
Well look at this. I just found the solution to making my wheel spacers fit. Thanks. For this
A good solution but is concentricity guaranteed?
The only way to be dead certain is take it to a machine shop with a lathe . This method will centre it to the actual wheel though . I think this method is pretty close to perfect .
Ești cel mai bun prietene❤
Thank you friend .
Wow great vid! I just got a set of nicer fifteen52 wheels with too small bore diameter, and was scared that I would have to drop a couple extra 100 on getting them machined. I already have a bit and a router! Thanks!
Just be a bit (pun) careful. Maybe do a shallow cut first to make sure you are in the right sizing before you do your full cut .
Appena fatto, funziona!
Da 63,4 a 65,1 mm, cerchi Jaguar su Volvo ❤
Grazie per il tuo video 🤙
Di niente. Mi dispiace per la risposta lenta, ho capito come leggere il tuo commento solo ora con Google Translate.
Just used a hole saw to cut a good chunk out of my center bore. I used a large drill press at my old high school since I’m still close with my shop teacher. Works great.
How did you keep it centred?
Too cool! Perfect video since I want to do Lexus rims onto an Acura
Make sure you set your router depth carefully and only cut in the direction of the cutting blade or the router can jump . Best of luck .
@@Dentinvent and don't plug-in a router with the power switch on! My boss years ago did that and the router shot off of a table while just missing my thighs. That was the start and end of his "router safety lesson" :)
Did this creat an wobble after driving? Or did they turn out perfect
No wobble at all and they balanced perfectly .
Hi De! just spotted your craftsmanship an universal means of wizardry, you truely are magic after all true knowledge has no limits nor boundaries you work with the tools you have an create pieces of art! you know how you made that centre tool for painting rims use that strategy with opening the bore diameter. get a round flat piece of steel 3mm thick with a centre hole in the centre that exceed your limits weld bolt threads on the other side to match your stud pattern find some old large pipe or even empty gas bottles make up multiable circular selves about 5mm high weld-on 4 threats on the outside... cutup 4 bits of 3mm small "c" channel cut out a channel at one end the width of your threads on your selves until 80% weld them on matching the distance of outer threads on your selves around your circular plate with the stud threats... you just made a jig that you can bolt up to your rim put on the circular sleeve you need to match router an alloy centre bore you want to oversize.. aline 2 sides of your router against the inner sleeve an around you go " you'll have a true centre.. regards.
Great idea you had there . My wife always thinks I waste a lot of time making things so I’d better let you make that invention . Sounds great though .
Thank you!
Thanks Mr. Wizard!
Hi was the bit a straight cut bit or trim cut bit has am looking todo this and engineer firms wont touch my alloys because they are brand new. Many thanks
The router bit is called a “flush cut bit” . It is used to trim for example laminate flush with the edges of a table . The end has a roller bearing so that the blade fits flag to the edge ( when the bearing rests on the table edge ). I removed the roller bearing and used the blue plastic sleeve to make the top smaller than the bearing . This this allowed me to router deeper than flush. The plastic which is smaller in diameter to the roller bearing , is determined by how much rebate you want . Hope this makes sense . Good luck .🦷
I am doing this tomorrow. The rims I got had a bore of 54.1 my car is 59.1 . You can get router bits with a bearing guide and in my case the blade will stick out 2.5 mm.
Good luck man. Just take your time. The alloy cuts very easily so watch out you don't slip.
Nice job man .i bought some rims recently and guess what they did not fit they dont go all the way in !! The center bore hole on those rims are small and the ones on my truck are a lil bigger what can i do???
I would lube the car hub then fill the gap with jb weld and place the wheel back on with the studs to centre the wheel and fill the gap . Make sure jb weld does not get between hub and the wheel. Remember there is no force on the jb weld when wheel is secured .
@@Dentinvent thank for the advice man ill try that out and get back to you if it works
It should work . Make sure you really lube the hub. You could even use alfoil or plastic cling wrap but you will get some wrinkles ( in the jb weld as well as your face ). Actually the cling wrap is probably safer so you have a small gap to get the wheel on and off .
@@Dentinvent ok thank you for the info sir
can you post a picture of the bit. Thanks
I don’t have that bit any more
My good man you just answered the question I was looking for. Do you still have the rims on the car if so have you had any problems with them?
Only problem is I got a flat tyre and the tyre stuffed up and was worth more than I paid for the set of 4 rims and tyres ! The Lexus wheels ideally need Lexus Toyota nuts which are flat but I still used the Honda tapered nuts so you have to make sure the nuts are exactly centred so the wheels sit properly .
Will this work on a forged wheel?
Forged wheels offer several advantages. The manufacturing process results in a stronger wheel by eliminating cavities, porosity, and shrinkage. Due to its tighter grain structure, forged wheels are also mechanically stronger but since they are still aluminium, this technique should still work.
Thanks mate that help me out heaps
Good luck . I’ve never had a problem with those wheels. With the Toyota Lexus wheels on a Honda just watch out for different wheel nuts . Toyota’ like flat wheel nuts and Honda had tapered nuts but if you are careful you can still use Honda nuts on Toyota wheels .
If you have different branded cars or wheels , just check out the internet for differences.
How did you manage to get the hubcaps to fit bro? I want to do this as my bore is little smaller than the hub on my truck. The engineering shop will do it but i want to know if there is anyway to use the hub caps
Do you mean the Lexus hubcaps ? They came with the wheels as they are Toyota wheels that were rebored to fit my Honda .
@@Dentinvent little confused here. After rebore the Centre bore increases in diameter. Doesn't that mean the the hubcaps for the same specific wheels will not fit anymore since the diameter has increased
@@KaifKhan-fw7fvhe didn't cut all the way through, only 6mm deep on the inside (back) of the rim... The part that touches the rotor. So the front of the rim is still stock, which means the center cap with the Lexus symbol still fits.
Ok now riddle me this 🤔 what if the alloy rims you bought are said to fit but the stud holes are too narrow by a hair and won’t mount on the spindles.. now what because I’m stuck with rims I can’t return cuz i mounted tires already assuming they were going to you know.. fit? Lol
Sounds like the wheels you bought are not suited for your car . Best options are to try and sell the wheels and tyres or see if you can find adapters ( second option may not be possible ). I think you may be learning by experience here .
@@Dentinvent adapters are a no-go, it’s a 9,300 lb 8 lug truck. The manufacturer still argues the wheels are for my truck.. what a headache
@@mikecorleone6797
Sounds really terrible . If you bought them new , surely they should have a refund policy ? You just lose your tyre fitting costs which is better than losing everything.
Great video thanks
Thanks man. Quite easy to do but be careful as you cannot easily put the metal back .
I assume that is an alloy wheel which is soft, Would that tungsten router bit work on steel wheels? (Sorry I have no idea)
All alloy wheels are aluminium. They don’t have steel wheels that look like this because they would be too heavy .
The steel wheels are the cheap rims that they usually paint black or they have chrome look plastic hub caps attached to make them look like alloy wheels. In other words, most wheels that are nicer are alloy aluminium and the router bit will cut through easily .
What wood bit do you use exactly?
Any tungsten carbide bit of the correct shape and size will cut aluminium easily. Be careful to make sure you push the router so the blade cuts into the metal. If you cut the opposite direction , the blade jumps .
Nice job!
Thanks man. Still using those Lexus wheels and they look great .
What kind of bit did you use to cut the metal? Thanks
The bit was just a standard woodworking bit called a rebating bit . It cuts a shoulder at a certain depth . The depth was greater than I wanted so I added the blue plastic sleeve to reduce the depth of the cut .
I don’t have a photo as I made it years ago and don’t have it now .
You could find a proper router bit that cuts to the exact depth you want . If it has a bearing , it would cut smoother than the one I used .
Can this router bit also be used for aluminum wheels ?
These are aluminium wheels . Aluminium is a soft metal and the router bits do not get damaged when they are used in the aluminium alloy. Just be a little careful to make sure you move the router in the cutting direction of the blade and not the other way or the router can jump.
Did u use the regular bit for wood?
Yes I used regular wood cutting router bit. Aluminium is soft and the bit looked the same after cutting the wheels . Many bits are tungsten carbide tipped .
Just be careful not to trim too much off.
What’s tool was used ?
This was an electric wood router
i need to cut 1mm, have any suggestions @dentinvent ?
I would still try and find a router bit with a central guide but only a 1mm step . If you cannot find one with a one mm step, you pack out the central guide so the offset is down to 1mm. Hope that makes some sense/
The actual wheel is a bit large to put in a lathe but that is the better way to do it .
What brand was the machine you used to bore ???
The machine I used is a Hitachi TR12 router but the alloy is not hard so any router should work.
The Lexus wheels have flat lug nut seats, so need a perfect centre bore fit for alignment
Exactly true. You can actually use proper Lexus flat nuts and get spacers to get the studs to fit exactly but I used the tapered Honda nuts carefully tightened and they self centre . You really know if they are not centred when the steering shakes .
@@Dentinvent once lined up did you remove the tapered nuts one at a time and then fit the flat nuts?
If you are running the tapered nuts on flat seats you only have the edge of the hole as a point of contact, a big enough bump would be enough to shock the nuts loose and allow the wheel to move.
I used the tapered Honda nuts but did them up each a bit at a time . If they are torqued high enough they never slip . When I first put them on I had one wheel not correct and then I learned quickly to carefully put them on. I did buy a set of flat nuts to suit but the centres were too narrow and I never got around to making spacers so I always used the tapered nuts and no wheel has loosened .
I'm having the same problem, just bought some alloys and centre bore is to small, by 1 cm or so, anyone know where this can be done? Ta
I’m sure any wheel machining shop would do it for you but the cost may be high . This video shows diy to save money . If your don’t feel confident, maybe take it to a shop .
Did you do anything to mark the depth and width you needed to cut on the rims?
The depth is the same depth cut as the original wheel .
As for the width measurement , have a read of the reply to Hai Phan below .
@@Dentinvent Thanks, I read that post. I guess I'm not very knowledgeable on how routers work. I was just wondering how you would make sure the tool was cutting to the specific measurements. Is it a matter of adjusting the length of the bit or did you mark anything off with a pen?
@@dylanhamel88
Like woodworking, I actually did fine micro adjustments and took off small increments at a time until I reached my ideal measurement. I then locked those measurements on the router stops.
I wish you could do mine. I bought a set of 99 eclipse wheels (5x114.3) for my 02 Malibu (also 5x114.3) but you wouldn’t believe what happened lmao. I don’t know all the measurements of the bore and everything but I know I wasted $80 unless I can find a way to do this. I don’t have great access to tools & equipment so I might just be at a loss. Would you happen to know a place that does this that won’t cost an arm and a leg?
If you are desperate I’d even try buying a router bit and spin it in a drill. The alloy of the wheel is not very hard to trim. The bit shouldn’t be too expensive and will cost a lot less than getting someone else to do it . Cheaper than an arm and a leg.
What bit did you use ? Or what’s used to do this on the router ?
Just use a tungsten carbide bit that is used for woodwork and that will cut through easily without damaging the bit. If you haven't used a router before, be very careful as it only can be moved in the direction that the blade cuts through . That is, you cannot move the router in the wrong direction or it can fly back. I would trim a little at a time to make sure you don't take too much off.
Just wonder how to centerlize it? How should we stop at the right time, right amount of trimming?
You measure the centre bore of the original, use the measurement you want to reach , take away the original bore from the size of the bore you want and divide the measurement by two . For example if your bore is 10 and you want it at 11 , 11 minus 10 divide by two equals 0.5 . The measurement is the amount of rebate that you want your router but to be cutting away . Hope that makes sense .
How does it run ?
The wheels run perfectly . They are Lexus wheels on a Honda so ideally should have Lexus / Toyota flat wheel nuts rather than the tapered Honda wheel nuts . I had the wheel balance redone and they are perfect.
@@Dentinvent I have a lexus isf wheels and did the same thing as you did. And I'm a well installing those on my 9th gen accord. And thank you for the advice. I'll make sure to grab some lugs from the scrap yard 😂
aref
Great to hear . I got my Lexus wheels with high wearing pirelli tyres so it was definitely worth doing and they look great too. Hope yours look good .
It actually runs really well. The nuts are Lexus and flat ones but the Honda nuts are tapered so you have to make sure you have the wheel locked into the right position or else the wheels are not correct .
RIP to the 20’s
Originally had some 20 inch wheels when I bought the car and seller had a full front end replacement kit with the car but it turned out that the suspension was good and the noise was the wheels rubbing . Changing to 18 inch wheels fixed the front end noise .
How type off machine did you use to bore? A link for the machine and bore would be nice :D
Hi Marius,
The machine is a standard woodworking router . In this case it was a hitachi TR12 variable speed router .
Any type of router would work ( or should I say wood work pun intended ).
Let me know how you go.
The alloy is quite easy to cut.
How possible do you think it would be to increase center bore size of my wheels from 66.1mm to 67.1mm? Its such a small difference. Maybe I should use something less intense?
1 mm is pretty small.maybe set up a drill with sandpaper but do the same rebate idea to maintain the depth
@@Dentinvent Thats what I was thinking… Lol
@@DentinventI have a similar problem with rims that are 60mm and a bore size of 67.1. Metal rims.
Any suggestions on how to proceed? Tools to grind? They're lug-centric.
@@jamest7727
If you want to increase the wheel to fit from 60 to 67.1 you need a router but that cuts a lip of 3.55 mm . This will cut a 3.55 mm width groove to increase your diameter 7.1 mmm.
Hope I understood you correctly
what's the point of doing this
Did you not watch the video to understand that the wheels don’t fit on the car as they were from a Lexus and I was fitting them to a Honda ? If I found a set of Honda wheels that looked this good and had Pirelli tyres for AU$80 then I would not have done this procedure .
Dentinvent yeah nah don't get me the wrong way. I'm just doing my research because i just bought a 2nd hand wheels but my tires are poking out by one inch. that's why i'm asking. sorry though
One inch is a lot man! If you cut the bore deeper it will decrease the amount sticking out but then I’d also add some wheel arch flares or you’d have to get the wheel arches rolled out more . Good luck .
Dentinvent Dentinvent thanks bro. i may have to roll my fender first then put a fender flare. or cut the bore deeper
Milky Way yeah weigh up the cost and off too costly sell those wheels and use that as a learning experience. There is a lot to research when buying aftermarket wheels . I even tried Honda S2000 wheels on this Honda Odyssey and they didn’t fit .
i did this whith a drill with a file on it
Nice ingenuity. A router spins a bit faster than a drill though .
I did this too and is hard as hell to get it right
I would only use this technique if there was no engineering machine shop near me to do the job. If the hole is not the correct size the wheel will not be centered on the hub and the wheel balance will be affected. Wheel balancers use the centre hole to locate the wheel. Not worth the risk to life and limb. It could also invalidate your insurance if it leads to an accident or worse. Just saying.
You are indeed correct . I just didn’t because the wheels cost me less than the price of the machinist to look at one wheel.
@@Dentinvent Don't know how much you are charged per wheel but around here a price of €30 to €40 per wheel depending on size would be average.
@@herbiemitchell9156
If it was 40 Euro that equates to AU$62.26 per wheel. I bought my set of 4 wheels with Perelli tyres AU$80 for the whole set . Bargain wheels so I didn’t want to spend any more money relative to the wheel cost .
I thought they all the same until I try Toyota on Mitsubishi.
That is why there are so many aftermarket wheels .
Deja am pus in oractica cele invatate de la tine
Thank you for your comment and I hope it worked out well.
Sketchy. Needs to be done on a lathe to keep the center bore actually centered. Tires are cheap if you buy online. I get a set of 4 255/35/20 for around $320 american.
Yes you are indeed correct but I did not have a spare lathe and didn't have the spare cash to get someone to do it for me either.
This method relies on the previous bore to be centered, which most already are. Less sketchy than you might think, especially if the rim uses a tapered or ball seat for the lugnuts, that will help center the rims......like many vehicles already use. However if you have a flat seat rim (like older Lexus rims) you'll have to be a bit more accurate and precise, but it's still not as bad as you might think, although I would knock some of the corrosion off just to be sure the guide bearing (plastic sleeve here) works well.
Nunya Business I actually tried it. Bored some toyota wheels out to fit my nissan. They shake like an absolute motherfucker. Didn’t work at all
@@Xixu.co.6 I bet the Toyota wheels were flat seat style. And if the wheels weren't messed up too bad you could have a shop with a lathe bore out centered space for a concentric hub ring to fit your Nissan.
Guys please do not do this unless you set yourself up a guide.
Buy a cylinder Hone You can get various grits
How do you get the cylinder hone inside a wheel?
BE careful folks, most vehicle wheels centre on the hub, NOT THE STUDS/BOLTS, hence the market for "hub centering rings".
Point noted
Oh dear god please dont do this take it to a lathe or wheel shop
Too late . I did it about a year ago .
I mean this dude smarter then me I’m doing this exact same thing but with a file
U frm the uk
From Australia .🇦🇺
f'n brilliant..... Now bmw wheels get rebored to suit other hubs!
Yes and it worked well. No wheels fell off and they were quite well balanced .
Yes and it worked well. No wheels fell off and they were quite well balanced .