If you need a real killswitch just do the same thing as in this video, but splice in the killswitch to the signal wire that goes to the fuel pump. They can jump the starter, push-to-start if it's a manual, heck you can give them the key and as long as that switch is off, no fuel, no start.
Thank You sir. Just did mine in less than an hour. Any obstacles we can throw at them thief's to slow them down or make it harder for them to steal the vehicles is better than none. Wish I've seen this video years ago where I had my company van stolen with $10,000 worth of tools and equipment in it. They even took the battery.
The very best simple Kill switch explanation I have seen yet, and I have used it in exactly the same way as you have described. The only down side for me with this setup is that my vehicle is a manual so even with the switch in the off-kill position it can be clutch started. But "hey" it's usually only going to be some lame kid car thief who wouldn't be bothered trying to clutch it & hopefully they will leave it. Better than having nothing though.
It's not good. A manual car can be bumped started . Wire it to the fuel pump. If its older and has no duel pump, wire the switch to the spark plugs cuircut.
Simple, effective and cheap insurance.. Your clever vids have been invaluable for restoring my 68 SS the last 2 years. This Jan will be final completion.You got my appreciation and respect. Big thanks Chris!
Chris you must have read my mind . Years ago I did exactly that on few cars except the horn thing, best idea I have seen so far after a lot of researching for a better one. Good job mate genius idea and simple.
Great video Chris, I'll do this to my 1980 El Camino . I am replacing my kill switch location and the horn trick ,is great . I started watching your videos about a year ago , and rebuilt my edelbrock carb with your help .Now I watch all your videos and give them a thumbs up.
I used a button in my car that already exists in the car, that way everything looks original, I put it with a relay in combination with the key, and it has worked for me for years
You suggest to wire it into the starter circuit as apposed to the fuel or ignition circuit so that someone who is trying to steal the car doesn't continually crank on the motor! Totally understandable, but why not run a second kill switch to the ignition? My dad had two kill switches on his 65 mustang! On a mid 60's car it isn't a bad idea to have a kill switch on both circuits because the electrical wiring is much simpler than a modern car! Ford even put the stater solenoid on the fender well right next to the battery making it accessible for those who can't figure out how to crank the engine inside the car By having two kill switches, if the person trying to steal the car figures out how to energize one circuit, They still won't be able to start the car unless they figure out how to energize the other circuit!
I installed this with the horn today. Many thanks for the instruction and drawing. Combined with another semi related video and I have a creative solution to give me piece of mind.
I like this one. I always thought with some of the other kill switches they would wear out the starter for ya. But my horn is anemic. But there are lots of imaginative ideas for the third position. I was thinking of doing something with an uninsulated key left in the ignition and an electric fencer.
did that with my 65 impala. the horn idea is a great idea! I did a car by using a switch to ground out HEI too. I have a 72 chevelle so will use that horn idea as a backup. thanks.
Great video. Thanks for the instructions! Would this same setup work with a three prong switch with and LED having; Earth, Load & Supply? I was thinking the earth tab can go to any ground on the car, and the purple wire from the starter would get cut and coming from the starter would go into Supply, and then come out of Load and go into the Solenoid. Does that work?
Love the 2nd idea with the horn. It got me thinking. I want to install a momentary push button that closes the circuit while starting so I don't have to keep remembering to toggle the switch back and forth each time. What I was thinking is using a 5 pin relay in place of the double throw toggle switch. The neutral safety wire goes into the 30 pin. 87a pin is to the horn, 87 pin to the solenoid. The momentary switch will be to the 86 pin. This way, it will always go to the horn until the momentary switch button is pressed. Once released, it will always go to the horn circuit.
This is helpful. My only question is if I’m installing the switch inside somewhere do I run the risk of voltage drop since I’ve added more length to the overall circuit.
@@chriscraft77022 @ thank you. The existing wiring should have enough play to re-route it to hide it in the car. I guess that is my real question. Sorry if a dumb question.
Good idea, add a latching relay in-between the switch to horn wire and the horn will stay on even if they crank for 1 second and dont crank anymore. Horn will blast until battery is dead, or they are..
This would be hilarious to rig to a door lock that can’t be opened from inside as well as the horn haha! Totally rigging the horn setup on my 85 Chev C20.
I always tap into the wire on top of the gas tank and and break it. I use a small solenoid and being the pump is in the plastic tank on most newer cars I break the ground with my solenoid. I am building a 53 5 window with a stroker 350. I am using a electric pump just for that reason. Non electronic ignitions on vintage cars are to easy to steal as they have a manual fuel pump. You only need one 2ft wire with clips. It goes on ignition side of coil then to the battery hot side now you take a long screw driver reach the solenoid and then you short the big red hot wire across to the S on the solenoid that you are using and it will start right up unless it has no fuel. They also make solenoids that go on a gas line and block fuel altogether. You did a good jog explaining. Just thought I would give you another idea. If you want feel free to make another video with drawings better explaining this if you like the idea. Old cars really need a good kill switch . you could even put one on the coil wire. Once again thanks for the video.
you are so right.. I have never messed with anything older than 67 but I can imagine the ignition wires being easily accessible on pre 60s cars ... VERY GOOD info ... I will brainstorm and possibly make a video when the conventional kill switch is not a good option.. i understand exactly what you are running to kill the fuel pump..
Finally someone who thinks like I do. So tired of everyone killing the fuel circuit. If the car won't crank the thief will leave, course he my steal something else or bust up things but at least the car is not stolen. PS like the horn idea.
Hey, I appreciate you showing the diagrams that helped a lot. I’ve done some installing alarms and I usually have a yellow wire on old GMC’s. On the starter wire. I’m working on a 2008 GMC Yukon and I cannot find the starter wire coming off the column to save my life. Do you happen to have a picture or could you tell me where that starter wire is located and if it is the 10 gauge Purple? I know a 2004. It’s a 10 gauge yellow. Thank you ahead of time.
only thing I'm confused about is what wire I use for the power. Not the 12v constant, is it the wire literally called ignition 1? Or would 12v constant work since the switch will be before the ignition ? Or after what ever way you wanna look at it
Nice, that's exactly what i have in mind for my Ford. Gonna use a remote controlled relay instead though, and probably add a manual switch bypass in the trunk in case it breaks or i lose the remote
So for the SPDT horn switch - if it’s on then car works normal. And if it’s in kill switch mode car won’t start and horn will beep. What does car do if switch is in the middle off position then ?
OUT FRIKEN STANDING SA VES ME $400 + DOLLARS I BOUGHT MY TRUCK For UNDER $200 THE VIPER ALARM THEY wanted $450 that's without installation FRIKEN ripe off thanks made my day
Without a relay to protect the switch... won't the 20amp switch burn sooner or later due to the several times you crank the engine/starter with the car 100amp battery (for example)? (great video, thanks!)
Question: I did this on my 2010 Lexus 6 cylinder and it seems to be the hot set up. Toggle the switch and when the starter is hit, the horn blows. Love it! Here’s my *potential* problem… The wire on the solenoid is 18ga. I ran 12ga wire 10 feet to the 20amp toggle switch and then 10 feet back to where I interrupted the original circuit. Everything is fine for about two weeks and then my solenoid suddenly fries. Like toast. Now this car has 148K miles so maybe it was time to puke out BUT…. I am wondering if the extra 20 feet of wire drew amperage enough to make the solenoid struggle and overheat? What’s the consensus? Did the amperage suck cause my solenoid to overheat and smoke? (I am considering re-routing to the relay if it exists…or last resort, the fuel pump relay.)
@@chriscraft77022 Good point. I’m still wondering if the extra 20 feet of 12ga affected the solenoid. (It runs from next to the solenoid, to the driver’s seat where the toggle is, and then back to where I interrupted the circuit.) I think I’m just going figure out how to rig a relay for that, too…just to be safe Thanks for the reply!
This is an older vid so dont know if it will get answered but... after the 3 switch & bonus wire to horn... my buddy and i were trying to think of something that is removable(maybe like a fuse from a fusable link?) And move that to another part of the vehicle... thoughts on that? Edit: spelling and :So to be more specific, at the end of your vid you have a straight purple line on the bottom... could a relay or fused link be added there, removeable and maybe more unexpected if they bypass/find the killswitch? Or i guess could even be between the ignition and NSS? Any help appreciated.
Hey Chris bad ass video I always wanted to do this to my 67 firebird I really appreciate you making these videos I learn something all the time your the best on wiring on TH-cam God bless you always my friend
I wired mine so if I turn the key it sounds a small speaker alarm, not loud, just a reminder that it is off but I like the idea of making it so if I try cranking it will cause the horn to honk too. Mine is connected to the electric fuel pump and I have carb so the Jeep will start and run for about 30 seconds before the carb runs out of gas.
I have another fun question. I assume that this would not turn off the car while it's running. Could I flip the switch after I start the car, while the car is running, without issue. My concern is car jackings - I wouldn't necessarily want to cut the car off immediately, just keep them from restarting the car after they've driven off. I assume since this is the starter, it wouldn't be an issue (like the fuel pump switches for example), but I want to make sure I'm not missing something since I'm not a mechanic.
I think that's (fuel pump/horn) the best solution overall. You have the noise of the horn plus the noise of them cranking. The thieves won't be there long enough to flatten the battery.
There's a black wire on my 92 accord that's smaller than the others it connects directly to my solenoid that's attached to starter. Can I splice this wire and have my switch wires spliced there? I have no electrical experience lol help would be appreciated my car keeps getting messed with. The wire is visible when looking directly down at my motor
Very simple and detailed diagram. I applied the same wiring pattern as shown and got the ignition killed but when I flip it to the horn it blows continious. Where did I go wrong.
Would your diagram work with a push-pull or push-button switch, mounted on my dash ('66 Chevy truck) in place of my not-in-use choke bezel? Great video!
To make this even better you should do that on your ignition coil because here you can still push the car and it could start but on the ignition coil it will never start
Hey Chris, I have a question. I am fix up a 1973 Torino and where the trunk weather stripping goes is some what rusted out but the very top thin part of metal is still there. What would you do?
I had a 1977 Camero that did not start with the key and I jumped the solenoid and she started. I did what he did and hid the button in the glove box. On my 95 regal I just take the anti-theft fuse out and nothing works. You can run a 5 amp switch the the glove compartment and use that as your kill switch.
Thank you Chris... i’ve been contemplating the idea of installing a kill-switch on my 72 Chevelle lately. However, how should I wire it if I have a starter solenoid??
Chris Craft ....Chris I apologize I meant to type Ford starter solenoid... I had to install a ford starter solenoid on my Chevelle to assist the starter.
How does this work with a manual floor shift ??.......meaning is it compatible with a manual vehicle ?......great idea I have a manual and would love to be able to do this to vehicle
Good to know. I was trying to tap the fuel pump relay but could not locate. The IGN fuse was located but was unsure if the switch was activated while car running, it would stall.
If you short the solenoid to starter with a screwdriver the starter will turn
On a 70 Chevelle big block car you can’t do that to save your life. maybe this option is not for you
If you need a real killswitch just do the same thing as in this video, but splice in the killswitch to the signal wire that goes to the fuel pump. They can jump the starter, push-to-start if it's a manual, heck you can give them the key and as long as that switch is off, no fuel, no start.
@@jaredd8473 great wisdom bro....Think I will do this
@@jaredd8473can you still add the horn part if you tap into the fuel pump?
Wiring a three way switch to the horn is an idea that I have never heard before!
Instead of a horn, wire it to a blasting cap imbedded in C-4.
Thank You sir. Just did mine in less than an hour. Any obstacles we can throw at them thief's to slow them down or make it harder for them to steal the vehicles is better than none. Wish I've seen this video years ago where I had my company van stolen with $10,000 worth of tools and equipment in it. They even took the battery.
The very best simple Kill switch explanation I have seen yet, and I have used it in exactly the same way as you have described.
The only down side for me with this setup is that my vehicle is a manual so even with the switch in the off-kill position it can be clutch started. But "hey" it's usually only going to be some lame kid car thief who wouldn't be bothered trying to clutch it & hopefully they will leave it. Better than having nothing though.
It's not good. A manual car can be bumped started . Wire it to the fuel pump. If its older and has no duel pump, wire the switch to the spark plugs cuircut.
Simple, effective and cheap insurance.. Your clever vids have been invaluable for restoring my 68 SS the last 2 years. This Jan will be final completion.You got my appreciation and respect. Big thanks Chris!
I never thought about doing a double throw. Stupid simple and genius 👍 thanks man
Chris you must have read my mind . Years ago I did exactly that on few cars except the horn thing, best idea I have seen so far after a lot of researching for a better one. Good job mate genius idea and simple.
My father installed this to his car 50 years ago.
Great video Chris, I'll do this to my 1980 El Camino . I am replacing my kill switch location and the horn trick ,is great . I started watching your videos about a year ago , and rebuilt my edelbrock carb with your help .Now I watch all your videos and give them a thumbs up.
Did it work?
The horn activation is brilliant!
Nice, will this work on a 2022 jeep gladiator with the horn option?
Thanks. Hands down best kill switch video
Very good video. Staying tuned in for PART 2!
I used a button in my car that already exists in the car, that way everything looks original, I put it with a relay in combination with the key, and it has worked for me for years
Years ago I had a 1968 GTO...I just ran a wire from the ignition coil to a toggle kill switch to ground out the ignition. Easy peasy.
You suggest to wire it into the starter circuit as apposed to the fuel or ignition circuit so that someone who is trying to steal the car doesn't continually crank on the motor! Totally understandable, but why not run a second kill switch to the ignition? My dad had two kill switches on his 65 mustang! On a mid 60's car it isn't a bad idea to have a kill switch on both circuits because the electrical wiring is much simpler than a modern car! Ford even put the stater solenoid on the fender well right next to the battery making it accessible for those who can't figure out how to crank the engine inside the car By having two kill switches, if the person trying to steal the car figures out how to energize one circuit, They still won't be able to start the car unless they figure out how to energize the other circuit!
Why stop at two? Why not have 17 kill switches so if they override the first 16 the last one will stop them?
That's a cool idea, so that way. The horn is always ringing when they're trying to crank it.
I installed this with the horn today. Many thanks for the instruction and drawing. Combined with another semi related video and I have a creative solution to give me piece of mind.
How did you do the horn? I bought a second horn and it didn't work.
@@WuestDennisOne terminal of the horn have to be connected to ground in order to complete the circuit.
Does the switch have to be between the safety switch and the solenoid? I'm confused about what side of the safety switch to install the kill switch
Also eager for part 2! Love the vid
Such a great video, and simple explanation. Doing this to my Jeep Cherokee.
I like this one. I always thought with some of the other kill switches they would wear out the starter for ya. But my horn is anemic. But there are lots of imaginative ideas for the third position. I was thinking of doing something with an uninsulated key left in the ignition and an electric fencer.
did that with my 65 impala. the horn idea is a great idea! I did a car by using a switch to ground out HEI too. I have a 72 chevelle so will use that horn idea as a backup. thanks.
perfect video... easy, straight to point, clear to understand for noobs like me. Thankyou!
I like crank to beeps horn idea. Loud noise attracts attention. Even in mall parking lot. Great deterrent.
Wow... I love your idea. Yours is the best video I've seen so far in this topic.. thank you for this... You're awesome.
Great video. Thanks for the instructions! Would this same setup work with a three prong switch with and LED having; Earth, Load & Supply? I was thinking the earth tab can go to any ground on the car, and the purple wire from the starter would get cut and coming from the starter would go into Supply, and then come out of Load and go into the Solenoid. Does that work?
Man! Thanks for clarifying that double throw. I never understood its purpose. But now I know.
Love the 2nd idea with the horn. It got me thinking. I want to install a momentary push button that closes the circuit while starting so I don't have to keep remembering to toggle the switch back and forth each time. What I was thinking is using a 5 pin relay in place of the double throw toggle switch.
The neutral safety wire goes into the 30 pin. 87a pin is to the horn, 87 pin to the solenoid. The momentary switch will be to the 86 pin.
This way, it will always go to the horn until the momentary switch button is pressed. Once released, it will always go to the horn circuit.
because its a relay youd be fine with using a low amp rated switch right?
Great idea!
My friends and I wired something similar only we used an air horn 😅, it'll scare the hell out of any thief
Does the positive from the ignition go to the positive of the neutral safety switch? Thanks
no
Do I how to run a wire all the way down to the starter solenoid or is there some other area up in the engine compartment that I can attach the wire to
This is helpful. My only question is if I’m installing the switch inside somewhere do I run the risk of voltage drop since I’ve added more length to the overall circuit.
you dont add wire you cut the existing wire to the starter motor and add the switch
@@chriscraft77022 @ thank you. The existing wiring should have enough play to re-route it to hide it in the car. I guess that is my real question. Sorry if a dumb question.
Good idea, add a latching relay in-between the switch to horn wire and the horn will stay on even if they crank for 1 second and dont crank anymore. Horn will blast until battery is dead, or they are..
This would be hilarious to rig to a door lock that can’t be opened from inside as well as the horn haha! Totally rigging the horn setup on my 85 Chev C20.
I like the way you think! I have decoy switches the real switch is hidden.
I always tap into the wire on top of the gas tank and and break it. I use a small solenoid and being the pump is in the plastic tank on most newer cars I break the ground with my solenoid. I am building a 53 5 window with a stroker 350. I am using a electric pump just for that reason. Non electronic ignitions on vintage cars are to easy to steal as they have a manual fuel pump. You only need one 2ft wire with clips. It goes on ignition side of coil then to the battery hot side now you take a long screw driver reach the solenoid and then you short the big red hot wire across to the S on the solenoid that you are using and it will start right up unless it has no fuel. They also make solenoids that go on a gas line and block fuel altogether. You did a good jog explaining. Just thought I would give you another idea. If you want feel free to make another video with drawings better explaining this if you like the idea. Old cars really need a good kill switch . you could even put one on the coil wire. Once again thanks for the video.
you are so right.. I have never messed with anything older than 67 but I can imagine the ignition wires being easily accessible on pre 60s cars ...
VERY GOOD info ... I will brainstorm and possibly make a video when the conventional kill switch is not a good option.. i understand exactly what you are running to kill the fuel pump..
Hey Chris, awesome idea! Do you have a link to Part 2? I can't find it in your video list.
Sadly don't think that he made a part 2 to this. But his diagram is pretty explanatory.
Very simple and a damn good idea.
Finally someone who thinks like I do. So tired of everyone killing the fuel circuit. If the car won't crank the thief will leave, course he my steal something else or bust up things but at least the car is not stolen. PS like the horn idea.
killing the fuel pump is something a child comes up with
@@chriscraft77022 What would be like if a ignition coil was wired up to the seat
Hey, I appreciate you showing the diagrams that helped a lot. I’ve done some installing alarms and I usually have a yellow wire on old GMC’s. On the starter wire. I’m working on a 2008 GMC Yukon and I cannot find the starter wire coming off the column to save my life. Do you happen to have a picture or could you tell me where that starter wire is located and if it is the 10 gauge Purple? I know a 2004. It’s a 10 gauge yellow. Thank you ahead of time.
Awesome, I liked the diagram you used to explain this especially also to the horn!
Really looking forward to part 2
Will a horn have 1 or 2 wires? Just don’t want to cut into the wrong one
Did you make part 2? Can't find it.
Does the horn set up work the same if wiring kill switch to the fuel pump relay?
I have a ln106 Toyota Hilux. I don't think it has a neutral safety switch. Will this still work on my ute if it hasn't a nss ?
Does it matter where you install the kill switch such as before or after the neutral safety switch?
Can I wire the switch from the wiring inside the dash. I have a 98 Jeep Wrangler if I use a multimeter to find the proper wiring can I do it?
how do you splice into the horn while the horn still works as normal too?
only thing I'm confused about is what wire I use for the power. Not the 12v constant, is it the wire literally called ignition 1? Or would 12v constant work since the switch will be before the ignition ? Or after what ever way you wanna look at it
I love the idea! Did you ever do part 2 of this video ?
Would a 15amp single pole double throw work?
Do part 2 pls I really can't wait to see it working xd
It still won't crank right? With the 3 pole honk system?
Nice, that's exactly what i have in mind for my Ford. Gonna use a remote controlled relay instead though, and probably add a manual switch bypass in the trunk in case it breaks or i lose the remote
Well explained video
So for the SPDT horn switch - if it’s on then car works normal. And if it’s in kill switch mode car won’t start and horn will beep. What does car do if switch is in the middle off position then ?
Hooking it up the horn! LOL That's brilliant!
I would love to see that second part video
OUT FRIKEN STANDING SA VES ME $400 + DOLLARS I BOUGHT MY TRUCK For UNDER $200 THE VIPER ALARM THEY wanted $450 that's without installation FRIKEN ripe off thanks made my day
Really enjoyed that video easy and simple but would like to see the final results on the 2nd video
OMG you're a genius !!!
Without a relay to protect the switch... won't the 20amp switch burn sooner or later due to the several times you crank the engine/starter with the car 100amp battery (for example)? (great video, thanks!)
Question:
I did this on my 2010 Lexus 6 cylinder and it seems to be the hot set up.
Toggle the switch and when the starter is hit, the horn blows. Love it!
Here’s my *potential* problem…
The wire on the solenoid is 18ga.
I ran 12ga wire 10 feet to the 20amp toggle switch and then 10 feet back to where I interrupted the original circuit.
Everything is fine for about two weeks and then my solenoid suddenly fries.
Like toast.
Now this car has 148K miles so maybe it was time to puke out BUT….
I am wondering if the extra 20 feet of wire drew amperage enough to make the solenoid struggle and overheat?
What’s the consensus?
Did the amperage suck cause my solenoid to overheat and smoke?
(I am considering re-routing to the relay if it exists…or last resort, the fuel pump relay.)
the wire to the horn should be triggering the horn relay either positive or negative .. not powering it
@@chriscraft77022
Good point.
I’m still wondering if the extra 20 feet of 12ga affected the solenoid.
(It runs from next to the solenoid, to the driver’s seat where the toggle is, and then back to where I interrupted the circuit.)
I think I’m just going figure out how to rig a relay for that, too…just to be safe
Thanks for the reply!
Do I use the S wire on my solenoid to the switch?
This is an older vid so dont know if it will get answered but... after the 3 switch & bonus wire to horn... my buddy and i were trying to think of something that is removable(maybe like a fuse from a fusable link?) And move that to another part of the vehicle... thoughts on that?
Edit: spelling and :So to be more specific, at the end of your vid you have a straight purple line on the bottom... could a relay or fused link be added there, removeable and maybe more unexpected if they bypass/find the killswitch? Or i guess could even be between the ignition and NSS? Any help appreciated.
Nice and straight to the point.
Hey Chris bad ass video I always wanted to do this to my 67 firebird I really appreciate you making these videos I learn something all the time your the best on wiring on TH-cam God bless you always my friend
I have soooooo many ideas now!!!!
Brilliant, I will try this but hook up the horn wire to a siren attached in the engine compartment.
Great information. Thank you for the details
Yo, did the part tow come out?
Would this work with remote starter?? Thanks
Will this disable the remote start function?
I wired mine so if I turn the key it sounds a small speaker alarm, not loud, just a reminder that it is off but I like the idea of making it so if I try cranking it will cause the horn to honk too. Mine is connected to the electric fuel pump and I have carb so the Jeep will start and run for about 30 seconds before the carb runs out of gas.
Excellent, excellent Idea. Thank you for sharing.
Amazing idea. You're a genius
I have another fun question. I assume that this would not turn off the car while it's running. Could I flip the switch after I start the car, while the car is running, without issue. My concern is car jackings - I wouldn't necessarily want to cut the car off immediately, just keep them from restarting the car after they've driven off. I assume since this is the starter, it wouldn't be an issue (like the fuel pump switches for example), but I want to make sure I'm not missing something since I'm not a mechanic.
Can I run it off the fuel pump relay using a three-prong toggle switch and including the horn as the alarm
I think that's (fuel pump/horn) the best solution overall. You have the noise of the horn plus the noise of them cranking. The thieves won't be there long enough to flatten the battery.
So I don't connect to the starter solenoid I go to the fuel pump instead tell me the three places I need to connect to I know the horn is one
There's a black wire on my 92 accord that's smaller than the others it connects directly to my solenoid that's attached to starter. Can I splice this wire and have my switch wires spliced there? I have no electrical experience lol help would be appreciated my car keeps getting messed with. The wire is visible when looking directly down at my motor
The 3 prong switch is to positive and one ground. Do i wire the horn to the ground from the switch
Very simple and detailed diagram. I applied the same wiring pattern as shown and got the ignition killed but when I flip it to the horn it blows continious. Where did I go wrong.
I’m putting it in today. My 53 Chevy thanks you
Any success with modern 2020 and up with Fob's? so much stuff goes on in cars I wouldnt want to mess things up. ECU's can get pretty $$$
this doesn’t have anything to do with computers
@@chriscraft77022 my bad sorry, I thought the neutral safety was a relay in the fuse box. I just saw on mine, its a separate part.
So I’m adding a kill switch to my bike air compressor, so I just tap in-line to the hot wire? No ground needed?
yes, the part should be grounded already
@@chriscraft77022 thank you, yeah I was worried about the ground, over thinking it I guess, I hate wires and electrical shit
Simple and brilliant!!
Add a relay latching to the horn section, so any unauthorized operation will lead to continuous audible alarm.
Can you do one for the fuel pump or pump relay?
How can I identify the solenoid cable in a Corolla 2012 manual transmission?
Would your diagram work with a push-pull or push-button switch, mounted on my dash ('66 Chevy truck) in place of my not-in-use choke bezel? Great video!
Great idea! I will definitely use this on my Camaro restorations.
To make this even better you should do that on your ignition coil because here you can still push the car and it could start but on the ignition coil it will never start
That is f and genius I've already switched it from a single pole single throw to a three-way switch man. Thank you the sir.
Hey Chris, I have a question. I am fix up a 1973 Torino and where the trunk weather stripping goes is some what rusted out but the very top thin part of metal is still there. What would you do?
I have a “controversial rust repair video.. “I did a repair like that on my car because I didn’t have a welder at the time.. check it out
Ok thank you. I am not the best at welding yet and that’s a very small area. This will help.
I had a 1977 Camero that did not start with the key and I jumped the solenoid and she started. I did what he did and hid the button in the glove box.
On my 95 regal I just take the anti-theft fuse out and nothing works. You can run a 5 amp switch the the glove compartment and use that as your kill switch.
Will you be doing a part 2? This is an amazing video and I’d love to see part 2.
That’s what I’m waiting for
Someone did it, th-cam.com/video/vEute6ErHjk/w-d-xo.html
@@LBZDreamer Thanks. Just checked it out. That’s perfect.
Hey did you find part 2 ?
@@yveshajj4502 No! Does it exist?
Thank you Chris... i’ve been contemplating the idea of installing a kill-switch on my 72 Chevelle lately.
However, how should I wire it if I have a starter solenoid??
thats how its wired in the video... you wire the switch in series TO the wire going to the solenoid
Chris Craft ....Chris I apologize I meant to type Ford starter solenoid... I had to install a ford starter solenoid on my Chevelle to assist the starter.
I just finished this and I like it
How does this work with a manual floor shift ??.......meaning is it compatible with a manual vehicle ?......great idea I have a manual and would love to be able to do this to vehicle
same thing.. this is for my manual 70 Chevelle
Would the car stall if the switch was activated after the car has been started?
no
Good to know. I was trying to tap the fuel pump relay but could not locate. The IGN fuse was located but was unsure if the switch was activated while car running, it would stall.
Another question. If the horn is booked up to the switch will that make it not work if you are driving and need to hit your horn?
No. Not if you do it right.
My 87 chevy doesn't accept it after one use. It has too much of a voltage drop with the 10 guage wire and 50amp switch for some reason.
Excellent - Just what I was thinking!