Thank You sir. Just did mine in less than an hour. Any obstacles we can throw at them thief's to slow them down or make it harder for them to steal the vehicles is better than none. Wish I've seen this video years ago where I had my company van stolen with $10,000 worth of tools and equipment in it. They even took the battery.
The very best simple Kill switch explanation I have seen yet, and I have used it in exactly the same way as you have described. The only down side for me with this setup is that my vehicle is a manual so even with the switch in the off-kill position it can be clutch started. But "hey" it's usually only going to be some lame kid car thief who wouldn't be bothered trying to clutch it & hopefully they will leave it. Better than having nothing though.
It's not good. A manual car can be bumped started . Wire it to the fuel pump. If its older and has no duel pump, wire the switch to the spark plugs cuircut.
Simple, effective and cheap insurance.. Your clever vids have been invaluable for restoring my 68 SS the last 2 years. This Jan will be final completion.You got my appreciation and respect. Big thanks Chris!
Chris you must have read my mind . Years ago I did exactly that on few cars except the horn thing, best idea I have seen so far after a lot of researching for a better one. Good job mate genius idea and simple.
Great video Chris, I'll do this to my 1980 El Camino . I am replacing my kill switch location and the horn trick ,is great . I started watching your videos about a year ago , and rebuilt my edelbrock carb with your help .Now I watch all your videos and give them a thumbs up.
You suggest to wire it into the starter circuit as apposed to the fuel or ignition circuit so that someone who is trying to steal the car doesn't continually crank on the motor! Totally understandable, but why not run a second kill switch to the ignition? My dad had two kill switches on his 65 mustang! On a mid 60's car it isn't a bad idea to have a kill switch on both circuits because the electrical wiring is much simpler than a modern car! Ford even put the stater solenoid on the fender well right next to the battery making it accessible for those who can't figure out how to crank the engine inside the car By having two kill switches, if the person trying to steal the car figures out how to energize one circuit, They still won't be able to start the car unless they figure out how to energize the other circuit!
I used a button in my car that already exists in the car, that way everything looks original, I put it with a relay in combination with the key, and it has worked for me for years
Good idea, add a latching relay in-between the switch to horn wire and the horn will stay on even if they crank for 1 second and dont crank anymore. Horn will blast until battery is dead, or they are..
I like this one. I always thought with some of the other kill switches they would wear out the starter for ya. But my horn is anemic. But there are lots of imaginative ideas for the third position. I was thinking of doing something with an uninsulated key left in the ignition and an electric fencer.
Finally someone who thinks like I do. So tired of everyone killing the fuel circuit. If the car won't crank the thief will leave, course he my steal something else or bust up things but at least the car is not stolen. PS like the horn idea.
This would be hilarious to rig to a door lock that can’t be opened from inside as well as the horn haha! Totally rigging the horn setup on my 85 Chev C20.
Love the 2nd idea with the horn. It got me thinking. I want to install a momentary push button that closes the circuit while starting so I don't have to keep remembering to toggle the switch back and forth each time. What I was thinking is using a 5 pin relay in place of the double throw toggle switch. The neutral safety wire goes into the 30 pin. 87a pin is to the horn, 87 pin to the solenoid. The momentary switch will be to the 86 pin. This way, it will always go to the horn until the momentary switch button is pressed. Once released, it will always go to the horn circuit.
OUT FRIKEN STANDING SA VES ME $400 + DOLLARS I BOUGHT MY TRUCK For UNDER $200 THE VIPER ALARM THEY wanted $450 that's without installation FRIKEN ripe off thanks made my day
I installed this with the horn today. Many thanks for the instruction and drawing. Combined with another semi related video and I have a creative solution to give me piece of mind.
did that with my 65 impala. the horn idea is a great idea! I did a car by using a switch to ground out HEI too. I have a 72 chevelle so will use that horn idea as a backup. thanks.
I always tap into the wire on top of the gas tank and and break it. I use a small solenoid and being the pump is in the plastic tank on most newer cars I break the ground with my solenoid. I am building a 53 5 window with a stroker 350. I am using a electric pump just for that reason. Non electronic ignitions on vintage cars are to easy to steal as they have a manual fuel pump. You only need one 2ft wire with clips. It goes on ignition side of coil then to the battery hot side now you take a long screw driver reach the solenoid and then you short the big red hot wire across to the S on the solenoid that you are using and it will start right up unless it has no fuel. They also make solenoids that go on a gas line and block fuel altogether. You did a good jog explaining. Just thought I would give you another idea. If you want feel free to make another video with drawings better explaining this if you like the idea. Old cars really need a good kill switch . you could even put one on the coil wire. Once again thanks for the video.
you are so right.. I have never messed with anything older than 67 but I can imagine the ignition wires being easily accessible on pre 60s cars ... VERY GOOD info ... I will brainstorm and possibly make a video when the conventional kill switch is not a good option.. i understand exactly what you are running to kill the fuel pump..
Nice, that's exactly what i have in mind for my Ford. Gonna use a remote controlled relay instead though, and probably add a manual switch bypass in the trunk in case it breaks or i lose the remote
Without a relay to protect the switch... won't the 20amp switch burn sooner or later due to the several times you crank the engine/starter with the car 100amp battery (for example)? (great video, thanks!)
Great video. Thanks for the instructions! Would this same setup work with a three prong switch with and LED having; Earth, Load & Supply? I was thinking the earth tab can go to any ground on the car, and the purple wire from the starter would get cut and coming from the starter would go into Supply, and then come out of Load and go into the Solenoid. Does that work?
Hey, I appreciate you showing the diagrams that helped a lot. I’ve done some installing alarms and I usually have a yellow wire on old GMC’s. On the starter wire. I’m working on a 2008 GMC Yukon and I cannot find the starter wire coming off the column to save my life. Do you happen to have a picture or could you tell me where that starter wire is located and if it is the 10 gauge Purple? I know a 2004. It’s a 10 gauge yellow. Thank you ahead of time.
I wired mine so if I turn the key it sounds a small speaker alarm, not loud, just a reminder that it is off but I like the idea of making it so if I try cranking it will cause the horn to honk too. Mine is connected to the electric fuel pump and I have carb so the Jeep will start and run for about 30 seconds before the carb runs out of gas.
Would your diagram work with a push-pull or push-button switch, mounted on my dash ('66 Chevy truck) in place of my not-in-use choke bezel? Great video!
only thing I'm confused about is what wire I use for the power. Not the 12v constant, is it the wire literally called ignition 1? Or would 12v constant work since the switch will be before the ignition ? Or after what ever way you wanna look at it
If your horn draws enough current to require 12 gauge wiring, your ignition switch wiring will also need to be upgraded with 12 gauge wiring. Alternatively, what I would do would be to run the line from the cutout switch to a relay which would then provide the necessary current to the horn with a 12 gauge wire.
This is an older vid so dont know if it will get answered but... after the 3 switch & bonus wire to horn... my buddy and i were trying to think of something that is removable(maybe like a fuse from a fusable link?) And move that to another part of the vehicle... thoughts on that? Edit: spelling and :So to be more specific, at the end of your vid you have a straight purple line on the bottom... could a relay or fused link be added there, removeable and maybe more unexpected if they bypass/find the killswitch? Or i guess could even be between the ignition and NSS? Any help appreciated.
Very simple and detailed diagram. I applied the same wiring pattern as shown and got the ignition killed but when I flip it to the horn it blows continious. Where did I go wrong.
I have another fun question. I assume that this would not turn off the car while it's running. Could I flip the switch after I start the car, while the car is running, without issue. My concern is car jackings - I wouldn't necessarily want to cut the car off immediately, just keep them from restarting the car after they've driven off. I assume since this is the starter, it wouldn't be an issue (like the fuel pump switches for example), but I want to make sure I'm not missing something since I'm not a mechanic.
Thank you Chris... i’ve been contemplating the idea of installing a kill-switch on my 72 Chevelle lately. However, how should I wire it if I have a starter solenoid??
Chris Craft ....Chris I apologize I meant to type Ford starter solenoid... I had to install a ford starter solenoid on my Chevelle to assist the starter.
Question: I did this on my 2010 Lexus 6 cylinder and it seems to be the hot set up. Toggle the switch and when the starter is hit, the horn blows. Love it! Here’s my *potential* problem… The wire on the solenoid is 18ga. I ran 12ga wire 10 feet to the 20amp toggle switch and then 10 feet back to where I interrupted the original circuit. Everything is fine for about two weeks and then my solenoid suddenly fries. Like toast. Now this car has 148K miles so maybe it was time to puke out BUT…. I am wondering if the extra 20 feet of wire drew amperage enough to make the solenoid struggle and overheat? What’s the consensus? Did the amperage suck cause my solenoid to overheat and smoke? (I am considering re-routing to the relay if it exists…or last resort, the fuel pump relay.)
@@chriscraft77022 Good point. I’m still wondering if the extra 20 feet of 12ga affected the solenoid. (It runs from next to the solenoid, to the driver’s seat where the toggle is, and then back to where I interrupted the circuit.) I think I’m just going figure out how to rig a relay for that, too…just to be safe Thanks for the reply!
i apologize, i will get it up as soon as possible.. video just not getting the views.. there is a secret way to wire it up if you dont want to run the hot wire all the way to the horns.. with a relay.. i will try to get it up as soon as possible
@@chriscraft77022 I neeeeeed part 2!!! Preferably explained so a five year old can understand it... electrical stuff is not my strong suit. Please and thanks! Fingers crossed. Toes, too.
How does this work with a manual floor shift ??.......meaning is it compatible with a manual vehicle ?......great idea I have a manual and would love to be able to do this to vehicle
So for the SPDT horn switch - if it’s on then car works normal. And if it’s in kill switch mode car won’t start and horn will beep. What does car do if switch is in the middle off position then ?
These were available in parts houses in 50s and 60s but were wired to a slow blow fuse that would allow someone to start car but wouldn't get far. I purchased several and they worked well until I forgot to switch on and burned fuse. No one had replacement fuses so had to use as a kill switch like you have. Never had an incident. I would be concerned about thoroughly upsetting a would be thief with horn and vandalizing my car to "get back at me"
TH-camR: stay tuned for PT.2 showing a hands on example of my diagram ME: looking forward to PT.2 ALSO ME: im not looking forward to pt.2 since its been 4 years in the making
Hey Chris bad ass video I always wanted to do this to my 67 firebird I really appreciate you making these videos I learn something all the time your the best on wiring on TH-cam God bless you always my friend
Always good information. What’s the status of the Chevelle. I have a 70 Chevelle as well and learned a ton from your videos. I just put a 454 in mine, based off how you installed yours. How about a video on rear differentials?!?!
I was going to make one but there is too much liability on setting pinion depth without the special tool... mine already had 3.31 gears and a posi so I didn’t really have to change anything.. I did rebuild it 100% sand blasted all new axles and bearings..rebuilt the posi and shimmed it... Sorry, it was the first thing I restored on the car, actually before I started making videos
![กี่หมื่นฟ้า | Your Sky Series EP.1 [1/4]](http://i.ytimg.com/vi/vLGjxFL6U_I/mqdefault.jpg)
If you short the solenoid to starter with a screwdriver the starter will turn
On a 70 Chevelle big block car you can’t do that to save your life. maybe this option is not for you
Instead of a horn, wire it to a blasting cap imbedded in C-4.
Wiring a three way switch to the horn is an idea that I have never heard before!
Thank You sir. Just did mine in less than an hour. Any obstacles we can throw at them thief's to slow them down or make it harder for them to steal the vehicles is better than none. Wish I've seen this video years ago where I had my company van stolen with $10,000 worth of tools and equipment in it. They even took the battery.
I never thought about doing a double throw. Stupid simple and genius 👍 thanks man
The very best simple Kill switch explanation I have seen yet, and I have used it in exactly the same way as you have described.
The only down side for me with this setup is that my vehicle is a manual so even with the switch in the off-kill position it can be clutch started. But "hey" it's usually only going to be some lame kid car thief who wouldn't be bothered trying to clutch it & hopefully they will leave it. Better than having nothing though.
It's not good. A manual car can be bumped started . Wire it to the fuel pump. If its older and has no duel pump, wire the switch to the spark plugs cuircut.
Simple, effective and cheap insurance.. Your clever vids have been invaluable for restoring my 68 SS the last 2 years. This Jan will be final completion.You got my appreciation and respect. Big thanks Chris!
Chris you must have read my mind . Years ago I did exactly that on few cars except the horn thing, best idea I have seen so far after a lot of researching for a better one. Good job mate genius idea and simple.
My father installed this to his car 50 years ago.
Great video Chris, I'll do this to my 1980 El Camino . I am replacing my kill switch location and the horn trick ,is great . I started watching your videos about a year ago , and rebuilt my edelbrock carb with your help .Now I watch all your videos and give them a thumbs up.
Did it work?
You suggest to wire it into the starter circuit as apposed to the fuel or ignition circuit so that someone who is trying to steal the car doesn't continually crank on the motor! Totally understandable, but why not run a second kill switch to the ignition? My dad had two kill switches on his 65 mustang! On a mid 60's car it isn't a bad idea to have a kill switch on both circuits because the electrical wiring is much simpler than a modern car! Ford even put the stater solenoid on the fender well right next to the battery making it accessible for those who can't figure out how to crank the engine inside the car By having two kill switches, if the person trying to steal the car figures out how to energize one circuit, They still won't be able to start the car unless they figure out how to energize the other circuit!
Why stop at two? Why not have 17 kill switches so if they override the first 16 the last one will stop them?
I used a button in my car that already exists in the car, that way everything looks original, I put it with a relay in combination with the key, and it has worked for me for years
That's a cool idea, so that way. The horn is always ringing when they're trying to crank it.
The horn activation is brilliant!
Good idea, add a latching relay in-between the switch to horn wire and the horn will stay on even if they crank for 1 second and dont crank anymore. Horn will blast until battery is dead, or they are..
I like this one. I always thought with some of the other kill switches they would wear out the starter for ya. But my horn is anemic. But there are lots of imaginative ideas for the third position. I was thinking of doing something with an uninsulated key left in the ignition and an electric fencer.
Years ago I had a 1968 GTO...I just ran a wire from the ignition coil to a toggle kill switch to ground out the ignition. Easy peasy.
Thanks. Hands down best kill switch video
Very good video. Staying tuned in for PART 2!
Finally someone who thinks like I do. So tired of everyone killing the fuel circuit. If the car won't crank the thief will leave, course he my steal something else or bust up things but at least the car is not stolen. PS like the horn idea.
killing the fuel pump is something a child comes up with
@@chriscraft77022 What would be like if a ignition coil was wired up to the seat
Nice, will this work on a 2022 jeep gladiator with the horn option?
This would be hilarious to rig to a door lock that can’t be opened from inside as well as the horn haha! Totally rigging the horn setup on my 85 Chev C20.
I like the way you think! I have decoy switches the real switch is hidden.
I like crank to beeps horn idea. Loud noise attracts attention. Even in mall parking lot. Great deterrent.
Love the 2nd idea with the horn. It got me thinking. I want to install a momentary push button that closes the circuit while starting so I don't have to keep remembering to toggle the switch back and forth each time. What I was thinking is using a 5 pin relay in place of the double throw toggle switch.
The neutral safety wire goes into the 30 pin. 87a pin is to the horn, 87 pin to the solenoid. The momentary switch will be to the 86 pin.
This way, it will always go to the horn until the momentary switch button is pressed. Once released, it will always go to the horn circuit.
because its a relay youd be fine with using a low amp rated switch right?
Great idea!
My friends and I wired something similar only we used an air horn 😅, it'll scare the hell out of any thief
I would love to see that second part video
OUT FRIKEN STANDING SA VES ME $400 + DOLLARS I BOUGHT MY TRUCK For UNDER $200 THE VIPER ALARM THEY wanted $450 that's without installation FRIKEN ripe off thanks made my day
Really enjoyed that video easy and simple but would like to see the final results on the 2nd video
Man! Thanks for clarifying that double throw. I never understood its purpose. But now I know.
I installed this with the horn today. Many thanks for the instruction and drawing. Combined with another semi related video and I have a creative solution to give me piece of mind.
How did you do the horn? I bought a second horn and it didn't work.
@@WuestDennisOne terminal of the horn have to be connected to ground in order to complete the circuit.
did that with my 65 impala. the horn idea is a great idea! I did a car by using a switch to ground out HEI too. I have a 72 chevelle so will use that horn idea as a backup. thanks.
perfect video... easy, straight to point, clear to understand for noobs like me. Thankyou!
Do part 2 pls I really can't wait to see it working xd
I always tap into the wire on top of the gas tank and and break it. I use a small solenoid and being the pump is in the plastic tank on most newer cars I break the ground with my solenoid. I am building a 53 5 window with a stroker 350. I am using a electric pump just for that reason. Non electronic ignitions on vintage cars are to easy to steal as they have a manual fuel pump. You only need one 2ft wire with clips. It goes on ignition side of coil then to the battery hot side now you take a long screw driver reach the solenoid and then you short the big red hot wire across to the S on the solenoid that you are using and it will start right up unless it has no fuel. They also make solenoids that go on a gas line and block fuel altogether. You did a good jog explaining. Just thought I would give you another idea. If you want feel free to make another video with drawings better explaining this if you like the idea. Old cars really need a good kill switch . you could even put one on the coil wire. Once again thanks for the video.
you are so right.. I have never messed with anything older than 67 but I can imagine the ignition wires being easily accessible on pre 60s cars ...
VERY GOOD info ... I will brainstorm and possibly make a video when the conventional kill switch is not a good option.. i understand exactly what you are running to kill the fuel pump..
Such a great video, and simple explanation. Doing this to my Jeep Cherokee.
Also eager for part 2! Love the vid
Very simple and a damn good idea.
Does the switch have to be between the safety switch and the solenoid? I'm confused about what side of the safety switch to install the kill switch
Really looking forward to part 2
Hey Chris, awesome idea! Do you have a link to Part 2? I can't find it in your video list.
Sadly don't think that he made a part 2 to this. But his diagram is pretty explanatory.
Nice, that's exactly what i have in mind for my Ford. Gonna use a remote controlled relay instead though, and probably add a manual switch bypass in the trunk in case it breaks or i lose the remote
Without a relay to protect the switch... won't the 20amp switch burn sooner or later due to the several times you crank the engine/starter with the car 100amp battery (for example)? (great video, thanks!)
Hooking it up the horn! LOL That's brilliant!
I love the idea! Did you ever do part 2 of this video ?
Awesome, I liked the diagram you used to explain this especially also to the horn!
I have soooooo many ideas now!!!!
Add a relay latching to the horn section, so any unauthorized operation will lead to continuous audible alarm.
Great video. Thanks for the instructions! Would this same setup work with a three prong switch with and LED having; Earth, Load & Supply? I was thinking the earth tab can go to any ground on the car, and the purple wire from the starter would get cut and coming from the starter would go into Supply, and then come out of Load and go into the Solenoid. Does that work?
Brilliant, I will try this but hook up the horn wire to a siren attached in the engine compartment.
Hey, I appreciate you showing the diagrams that helped a lot. I’ve done some installing alarms and I usually have a yellow wire on old GMC’s. On the starter wire. I’m working on a 2008 GMC Yukon and I cannot find the starter wire coming off the column to save my life. Do you happen to have a picture or could you tell me where that starter wire is located and if it is the 10 gauge Purple? I know a 2004. It’s a 10 gauge yellow. Thank you ahead of time.
Well explained video
OMG you're a genius !!!
Wow... I love your idea. Yours is the best video I've seen so far in this topic.. thank you for this... You're awesome.
I’m putting it in today. My 53 Chevy thanks you
I wired mine so if I turn the key it sounds a small speaker alarm, not loud, just a reminder that it is off but I like the idea of making it so if I try cranking it will cause the horn to honk too. Mine is connected to the electric fuel pump and I have carb so the Jeep will start and run for about 30 seconds before the carb runs out of gas.
Would your diagram work with a push-pull or push-button switch, mounted on my dash ('66 Chevy truck) in place of my not-in-use choke bezel? Great video!
Does it matter where you install the kill switch such as before or after the neutral safety switch?
Great idea! I will definitely use this on my Camaro restorations.
It still won't crank right? With the 3 pole honk system?
Does the horn set up work the same if wiring kill switch to the fuel pump relay?
only thing I'm confused about is what wire I use for the power. Not the 12v constant, is it the wire literally called ignition 1? Or would 12v constant work since the switch will be before the ignition ? Or after what ever way you wanna look at it
Would a 15amp single pole double throw work?
If your horn draws enough current to require 12 gauge wiring, your ignition switch wiring will also need to be upgraded with 12 gauge wiring. Alternatively, what I would do would be to run the line from the cutout switch to a relay which would then provide the necessary current to the horn with a 12 gauge wire.
This is an older vid so dont know if it will get answered but... after the 3 switch & bonus wire to horn... my buddy and i were trying to think of something that is removable(maybe like a fuse from a fusable link?) And move that to another part of the vehicle... thoughts on that?
Edit: spelling and :So to be more specific, at the end of your vid you have a straight purple line on the bottom... could a relay or fused link be added there, removeable and maybe more unexpected if they bypass/find the killswitch? Or i guess could even be between the ignition and NSS? Any help appreciated.
Excellent, excellent Idea. Thank you for sharing.
Amazing idea. You're a genius
Think ya could wire this to a house alarm, or smoke detector? The decibels would be epic!!😆
Very simple and detailed diagram. I applied the same wiring pattern as shown and got the ignition killed but when I flip it to the horn it blows continious. Where did I go wrong.
I have another fun question. I assume that this would not turn off the car while it's running. Could I flip the switch after I start the car, while the car is running, without issue. My concern is car jackings - I wouldn't necessarily want to cut the car off immediately, just keep them from restarting the car after they've driven off. I assume since this is the starter, it wouldn't be an issue (like the fuel pump switches for example), but I want to make sure I'm not missing something since I'm not a mechanic.
Do I how to run a wire all the way down to the starter solenoid or is there some other area up in the engine compartment that I can attach the wire to
I just finished this and I like it
Simple and brilliant!!
Thanks for great tip!
Nice and straight to the point.
Good stuff Chris..thanks...p.s..wind blew so hard here a woman had the same baby....twice!
Thank you Chris... i’ve been contemplating the idea of installing a kill-switch on my 72 Chevelle lately.
However, how should I wire it if I have a starter solenoid??
thats how its wired in the video... you wire the switch in series TO the wire going to the solenoid
Chris Craft ....Chris I apologize I meant to type Ford starter solenoid... I had to install a ford starter solenoid on my Chevelle to assist the starter.
Question:
I did this on my 2010 Lexus 6 cylinder and it seems to be the hot set up.
Toggle the switch and when the starter is hit, the horn blows. Love it!
Here’s my *potential* problem…
The wire on the solenoid is 18ga.
I ran 12ga wire 10 feet to the 20amp toggle switch and then 10 feet back to where I interrupted the original circuit.
Everything is fine for about two weeks and then my solenoid suddenly fries.
Like toast.
Now this car has 148K miles so maybe it was time to puke out BUT….
I am wondering if the extra 20 feet of wire drew amperage enough to make the solenoid struggle and overheat?
What’s the consensus?
Did the amperage suck cause my solenoid to overheat and smoke?
(I am considering re-routing to the relay if it exists…or last resort, the fuel pump relay.)
the wire to the horn should be triggering the horn relay either positive or negative .. not powering it
@@chriscraft77022
Good point.
I’m still wondering if the extra 20 feet of 12ga affected the solenoid.
(It runs from next to the solenoid, to the driver’s seat where the toggle is, and then back to where I interrupted the circuit.)
I think I’m just going figure out how to rig a relay for that, too…just to be safe
Thanks for the reply!
how do you splice into the horn while the horn still works as normal too?
Bravo.........or u can use the fuse panel......add switch and fuse......simple.......solenoid positive side......cheers
Good stuff Chris. I woulda never thought of that.
where's the 2nd and final video. love to see how it worked out.
Nice concept did you ever make part 2 of the bonus? I would like to see how you wired it up to the horn
i apologize, i will get it up as soon as possible.. video just not getting the views.. there is a secret way to wire it up if you dont want to run the hot wire all the way to the horns.. with a relay.. i will try to get it up as soon as possible
@@chriscraft77022 I neeeeeed part 2!!! Preferably explained so a five year old can understand it... electrical stuff is not my strong suit. Please and thanks! Fingers crossed. Toes, too.
Yes, part 2 please!
Your video now has over 117,000 views; please add part two! Really liked the first part!🎉
yes! would love to see part 2
Will you be doing a part 2? This is an amazing video and I’d love to see part 2.
That’s what I’m waiting for
Someone did it, th-cam.com/video/vEute6ErHjk/w-d-xo.html
@@LBZDreamer Thanks. Just checked it out. That’s perfect.
Hey did you find part 2 ?
@@yveshajj4502 No! Does it exist?
I have a ln106 Toyota Hilux. I don't think it has a neutral safety switch. Will this still work on my ute if it hasn't a nss ?
Thanks bro I’m going to do this for skid steer
That is f and genius I've already switched it from a single pole single throw to a three-way switch man. Thank you the sir.
How does this work with a manual floor shift ??.......meaning is it compatible with a manual vehicle ?......great idea I have a manual and would love to be able to do this to vehicle
same thing.. this is for my manual 70 Chevelle
Did you make part 2? Can't find it.
So for the SPDT horn switch - if it’s on then car works normal. And if it’s in kill switch mode car won’t start and horn will beep. What does car do if switch is in the middle off position then ?
These were available in parts houses in 50s and 60s but were wired to a slow blow fuse that would allow someone to start car but wouldn't get far. I purchased several and they worked well until I forgot to switch on and burned fuse. No one had replacement fuses so had to use as a kill switch like you have. Never had an incident. I would be concerned about thoroughly upsetting a would be thief with horn and vandalizing my car to "get back at me"
So I did this on my manual truck lol & gotta say I love it 😂
Will this disable the remote start function?
TH-camR: stay tuned for PT.2 showing a hands on example of my diagram
ME: looking forward to PT.2
ALSO ME: im not looking forward to pt.2 since its been 4 years in the making
Can I wire the switch from the wiring inside the dash. I have a 98 Jeep Wrangler if I use a multimeter to find the proper wiring can I do it?
Hey Chris bad ass video I always wanted to do this to my 67 firebird I really appreciate you making these videos I learn something all the time your the best on wiring on TH-cam God bless you always my friend
Nice, just what I needed for my chevy;s.
Would this work with remote starter?? Thanks
Mad Max knew where to wire it and it wasn't the horn.
The airbag? Just explode the thief to bits and pieces
Yeah i remember that xD
😏
Always good information. What’s the status of the Chevelle. I have a 70 Chevelle as well and learned a ton from your videos. I just put a 454 in mine, based off how you installed yours. How about a video on rear differentials?!?!
I was going to make one but there is too much liability on setting pinion depth without the special tool... mine already had 3.31 gears and a posi so I didn’t really have to change anything.. I did rebuild it 100% sand blasted all new axles and bearings..rebuilt the posi and shimmed it... Sorry, it was the first thing I restored on the car, actually before I started making videos
I completely understand. Keep doing what you brother. I’m going to eventually figure it out.
I have an old cop car that still has the police siren and I been wanting to use it for something hahaha
Great idea!
I like the horn thing. Great idea.
Any success with modern 2020 and up with Fob's? so much stuff goes on in cars I wouldnt want to mess things up. ECU's can get pretty $$$
this doesn’t have anything to do with computers
@@chriscraft77022 my bad sorry, I thought the neutral safety was a relay in the fuse box. I just saw on mine, its a separate part.
Do I use the S wire on my solenoid to the switch?
What happened to part 2?