Thanks for the comment . I had a look at the bottom bolt and my Allen key wouldn’t budge it . I know an impact gun on a suitable hex adapter would have done it but that requires more tools to buy or borrow.
Thank you for the video. It helps so much seeing how other people approach the job, before I try myself. I chose to insert a hex key into the lower hex screw. I then used a socket and bar to lever the key lose. After that it was an easy job to replace the seals.
I mainly wanted to change the seal but also didn’t want to risk making that lower hex seal leak ( which it probably wouldn’t but I figured less seals opened the better ).
DO NOT do this unless you are ready to take a long time and have massive patience. All the steps he is doing are what you would do anyway to properly do a fork seal change/inspection. I have done many without removing the fork at all. Wheel and brakes off, good support, remove the lower bolt and seal clip, tap them out by extending and lengthening the fork leg. Install can be done with a piece of pvc/nylon pipe cut in half as a driver This is the improper way to service a fork. If you see someone do this in a shop or even as side work, RUN
Thanks for your comments. I did have massive patience and enjoyed changing the fork seal. It is satisfying to see the new seal does not leak now. I never say this is the correct way to do things. It was just the way I did it and my main aim was the stop the fluid leaking out. I assume with your method , you need to drop the fork right out to get the old seal off and to get your pvc pipe in place to push the seal down.
That’s so much more work than removing the bottom damper cartridge bolt and separating the stanchion from the slider. How else are you going to check the tubes for bends with a dial indicator? Or did you skip every single important step in the service manual?
True what you said . I only wanted a new seal and my bike mechanic said the method would work . It worked so if there are tube bends the bike mechanic can deal with that .
You are welcome. Some commented that taking the lower screw out to drain it is easier . Once you try that , you will know just how hard it is to take that screw out unless you have an impact gun and the correct hex adapter . This method , the lower screw seal will never start leaking.
Don't replace your fork seals this way anyone. The bushings need inspecting, the fork stanchions can be scratched or dented this way using wrong tools. Just do the job properly, strip down the forks, inspect the bushings and clean out everything before reassembly. Clean off everything!! Use some insulation tape on top of fork stanchion and a bit of red rubber grease to slide new seal over and into place using a seal driver. Wipe a small amount of red rubber grease around the fork stanchion just above the seal. Fill with correct type and amount of oil. Refit dust seals and fork caps. Pump forks a few times hard to take the grease into the fork seals.
it's easier to remove the bottom bolt. better safe than sorry. one scratch on that shaft and you'r leaking for life
Thanks for the comment .
I had a look at the bottom bolt and my Allen key wouldn’t budge it . I know an impact gun on a suitable hex adapter would have done it but that requires more tools to buy or borrow.
yes if you dont understand how it works but still wont to work on it wy not just take the fork apart its not hard to do
I watched the correct videos in fork disassembly and understand it all .
Yeah ! I'm shock to see screw prying LoL
The screw trick (and using a dremel to drill the hole) is brilliant. Nothing else even budged the seal. Thanks!!
That’s great to hear . Thanks for the comment
Thank you for the video. It helps so much seeing how other people approach the job, before I try myself. I chose to insert a hex key into the lower hex screw. I then used a socket and bar to lever the key lose. After that it was an easy job to replace the seals.
I mainly wanted to change the seal but also didn’t want to risk making that lower hex seal leak ( which it probably wouldn’t but I figured less seals opened the better ).
I used your method today to remove my old fork seals. I was impressed, it work great. Thanks for the good tip.
Nice work . Hardest part is to make sure the forks are smooth so there is no corrosion that may damage the new fork seals .
Thanks for the information 👍
No worries. Hope it helps you.
DO NOT do this unless you are ready to take a long time and have massive patience.
All the steps he is doing are what you would do anyway to properly do a fork seal change/inspection.
I have done many without removing the fork at all. Wheel and brakes off, good support, remove the lower bolt and seal clip, tap them out by extending and lengthening the fork leg. Install can be done with a piece of pvc/nylon pipe cut in half as a driver
This is the improper way to service a fork. If you see someone do this in a shop or even as side work, RUN
Thanks for your comments.
I did have massive patience and enjoyed changing the fork seal. It is satisfying to see the new seal does not leak now.
I never say this is the correct way to do things. It was just the way I did it and my main aim was the stop the fluid leaking out.
I assume with your method , you need to drop the fork right out to get the old seal off and to get your pvc pipe in place to push the seal down.
That’s so much more work than removing the bottom damper cartridge bolt and separating the stanchion from the slider. How else are you going to check the tubes for bends with a dial indicator? Or did you skip every single important step in the service manual?
True what you said .
I only wanted a new seal and my bike mechanic said the method would work . It worked so if there are tube bends the bike mechanic can deal with that .
7:29 ... yes it does have that spring, but you can't see it on this type of seal, as it is 'build in' behind the rubber lip
Thanks for letting me know . Maybe mine now has two springs ?
Thanks for this video!
You are welcome. Some commented that taking the lower screw out to drain it is easier . Once you try that , you will know just how hard it is to take that screw out unless you have an impact gun and the correct hex adapter . This method , the lower screw seal will never start leaking.
I think I had massive patience. I had fun and at least my fork doesn’t leak . That was the aim.
Don't replace your fork seals this way anyone. The bushings need inspecting, the fork stanchions can be scratched or dented this way using wrong tools. Just do the job properly, strip down the forks, inspect the bushings and clean out everything before reassembly. Clean off everything!! Use some insulation tape on top of fork stanchion and a bit of red rubber grease to slide new seal over and into place using a seal driver. Wipe a small amount of red rubber grease around the fork stanchion just above the seal. Fill with correct type and amount of oil. Refit dust seals and fork caps. Pump forks a few times hard to take the grease into the fork seals.
Fair enough. Just putting it out there a different way ( even if it isn’t the perfect way ).
Brave
Probably because I’d never changed one before 😊.
This doesn't actually work to take out the seal
My seal came out easily with the screw method .
Tried this method and it's crap, Do yourselves a favour, strip the forks and do the job properly
Well it works for some .