More of a ford thing . Chevy had a return line on the fuel pump . What i did in the 80s ! Was i went to the ECS . And used the vapor line off that, its already ran to the tank and plumbed in . Done that probably 10 times ! Fords are knowin for heating up at low rpm . We can't 4 wheel more than 45 mins or my ford buddies are over heating . Chevy motors run opposite . We get 4 wheelin my chevy temp gauge goes from a quarter up . On down to just a needle width up on gauge ! Most my ford buddies put electric fuel pumps in line . They start vaporing they just reach down snd hit the electric switch . 10 seconds later ther good . Which is one reason why i like the q jets ! Center fuel bowl . Deep . Coolest part a the engine ! Less problems ! Holley carbs your 4 wheelin . Lean to one side and thet floodin . The other side ther lean . Edelbrocks are floodin goin up hill . Lean running down hill ! Q jets dont have that problem ! Good video brother !
Hello From Mark In Kentucky. I was scrolling through TH-cam regarding vapor lock issues and stumbled across your video. I have a 682 and a 1710 Cub Cadet garden tractor that have the opposed twin Kohler KT17 engine that runs pretty hot in any season which I had some issues with the engine quitting. After some inspection with a bright light I found that the fuel shut off inside the gas tank had the reed looking filter similar to the Hondas and or Predator engine fuel tanks that had collapsed and had restricted the fuel flow. So I changed the fuel shut off valve to one that doesn’t have the “Stupid Filter” after giving the tank a good flushing with soapy water, I hooked everything back up and my fuel flow issues seemed to be resolved. Well after getting the engine up to operating temperature, The engine smothered out and would only try to run with the choke pulled all the way out. I tried dosing the gasoline with a heavier than usual treatment of SeaFoam and the engine was much better but still would quit after it got hot. After some thought, I remembered the “Vapor Lock” symptoms with some of the older engines that I owned in the past had and I think that is most of the problem with the Cub Cadet. I will have to try your return line fix to see if the Vapor Lock goes away. The gasoline here in Kentucky seems to have more and more alcohol content which is not good for the older engines.
Thank you for posting this and the explanation. Have a 98 Rav4 that runs great when cold, but once it warms up it has a little hesitation like you describe. It did have a check engine light come on but changed the charcoal canister and no more light but still has the hiccup. Looked at the fuel line and sure enough the line is metal closer to the engine and the insulation one the metal part has fallen off due to oil leak. Going to replace the insulation and see how it runs.
In my 78 f250 with a 460 I run an old jeep fuel filter that has a return nipple built into it and I built a return hardline that runs right next to the supply line along the frame rail and welded a nipple into the fuel level sender so it circulates because I had the exact same problems
Great video ty for illustrating the process im going to need something like this on my 78 sierra or at least have someone install it as I'm away from my garage
Great idea - thanks. If I leave the CJ3 pictured in my profile parked for more than 10 minutes on a hot summer day without popping the hood up it ain’t starting again without a good 10-15 seconds of cranking. I had also considered a side mounted electric fan sucking cooler air into the engine compartment but like your solution better.
What I did on an 82 Bronco I had was just put a T fitting before my carburetor, cut the head off a bolt and stick the bolt in a section of fuel line that went back to the tank. I put a hose clamp around the section with the bolt shank in it, and with a fuel pressure gauge before the T I tightened the hose clamp until I still had enough fuel pressure but let enough bleed off so that the fuel was always circulating. Even with a mechanical pump I had too much fuel pressure anyway so I could afford to lose some. I also drilled into the fuel sending unit next to the stock fuel nipple instead of drilling into the tank itself.
I have one on my 85Firebird Street and strip built 355. (Jeep filter). Hasn't vapor locked since. The only thing I've noticed is that during a 2nd gear pull , the 750 quadrajet will pull the bowl dry. Let off, and it snaps back. But that doesn't always happen.
dodge vehicles once had fuel filter with side exit for fuel return. might help someone looking at line routing. while I agree with hating welding on tanks, there is another solution, i have done several times for other reasons, easier, simpler, take off the filler from tank, leave tank in place, now just clean metal filler, and drill a hole & braze a piece of metal line into it, i have always faced it down into tank, but bent 90 degrees, & just find a line with hose barbs, 6" or so long, then once reattach it, you attach your return line to it, the reason i did the returns is many times in my youth i liked to travel, and had a tank i installed in trunk 6-10 gallons, thats how I added gas to my tank while driving, i just used a small fuel pump. but to me easier than spending money, & I have brazed hose barb to line, but dont recommend unless your good with torch.
1. Run a high pressure fuel pump with pressure regulator right before the carb. 2. Run an inline line bleed-back control valve close to the carb. This is most likely your issue vs true vapor lock. The fuel just drains back to the pump or tank -
I have the msd efi and I have a vapor locking problem. It is a high priced system, with no data to hook it up in something , that’s not a mustang or Camaro . A weekend toy! And can’t get the techs on the phone, some act ok. But, some are a little bit hostile. And you still can’t get any information about putting it on my van or the fix for my problem!
@steven-ky2ps kept vapor down by venting of heat. It's been years ago but supposedly it helped with vapor lock also. And it was cheaper and a little easier .
Could you eliminate the mech pump, install electric and reroute the fuel line up near fender and keep away from the exhaust mani? I've been fighting this for a few months and wondering to see your results 😊
I saw the position of the filter and fuel line... what stops me from rerouting the filter and line away from the block/exhaust by a couple inches to a foot? Great video
More of a ford thing . Chevy had a return line on the fuel pump . What i did in the 80s ! Was i went to the ECS .
And used the vapor line off that, its already ran to the tank and plumbed in . Done that probably 10 times ! Fords are knowin for heating up at low rpm . We can't 4 wheel more than 45 mins or my ford buddies are over heating . Chevy motors run opposite . We get 4 wheelin my chevy temp gauge goes from a quarter up . On down to just a needle width up on gauge ! Most my ford buddies put electric fuel pumps in line . They start vaporing they just reach down snd hit the electric switch . 10 seconds later ther good . Which is one reason why i like the q jets ! Center fuel bowl . Deep . Coolest part a the engine ! Less problems ! Holley carbs your 4 wheelin . Lean to one side and thet floodin . The other side ther lean . Edelbrocks are floodin goin up hill . Lean running down hill ! Q jets dont have that problem ! Good video brother !
Hello From Mark In Kentucky. I was scrolling through TH-cam regarding vapor lock issues and stumbled across your video. I have a 682 and a 1710 Cub Cadet garden tractor that have the opposed twin Kohler KT17 engine that runs pretty hot in any season which I had some issues with the engine quitting. After some inspection with a bright light I found that the fuel shut off inside the gas tank had the reed looking filter similar to the Hondas and or Predator engine fuel tanks that had collapsed and had restricted the fuel flow.
So I changed the fuel shut off valve to one that doesn’t have the “Stupid Filter” after giving the tank a good flushing with soapy water, I hooked everything back up and my fuel flow issues seemed to be resolved. Well after getting the engine up to operating temperature, The engine smothered out and would only try to run with the choke pulled all the way out.
I tried dosing the gasoline with a heavier than usual treatment of SeaFoam and the engine was much better but still would quit after it got hot. After some thought, I remembered the “Vapor Lock” symptoms with some of the older engines that I owned in the past had and I think that is most of the problem with the Cub Cadet. I will have to try your return line fix to see if the Vapor Lock goes away. The gasoline here in Kentucky seems to have more and more alcohol content which is not good for the older engines.
Thank you for posting this and the explanation. Have a 98 Rav4 that runs great when cold, but once it warms up it has a little hesitation like you describe.
It did have a check engine light come on but changed the charcoal canister and no more light but still has the hiccup.
Looked at the fuel line and sure enough the line is metal closer to the engine and the insulation one the metal part has fallen off due to oil leak. Going to replace the insulation and see how it runs.
In my 78 f250 with a 460 I run an old jeep fuel filter that has a return nipple built into it and I built a return hardline that runs right next to the supply line along the frame rail and welded a nipple into the fuel level sender so it circulates because I had the exact same problems
L
Can you return the fuel to the fuel sender on the gas tank if the fuel sender nipple is below the gas line?
I'm having the exact same issue with my 78 f150 with the 460, I might do this thanks for the idea🫡
Great video ty for illustrating the process im going to need something like this on my 78 sierra or at least have someone install it as I'm away from my garage
Love the 79 NOSE.... I recently bought a 79 F150 I drive a 1980 F350 these days( Flat Bed) .... the 79 has some bugs I've got to work out
Great idea - thanks. If I leave the CJ3 pictured in my profile parked for more than 10 minutes on a hot summer day without popping the hood up it ain’t starting again without a good 10-15 seconds of cranking. I had also considered a side mounted electric fan sucking cooler air into the engine compartment but like your solution better.
What I did on an 82 Bronco I had was just put a T fitting before my carburetor, cut the head off a bolt and stick the bolt in a section of fuel line that went back to the tank. I put a hose clamp around the section with the bolt shank in it, and with a fuel pressure gauge before the T I tightened the hose clamp until I still had enough fuel pressure but let enough bleed off so that the fuel was always circulating. Even with a mechanical pump I had too much fuel pressure anyway so I could afford to lose some. I also drilled into the fuel sending unit next to the stock fuel nipple instead of drilling into the tank itself.
Damn. Thats some redneck engineering. They do make regulators that'll bleed the excess fuel back to the tank i think holley sells one
I have one on my 85Firebird Street and strip built 355. (Jeep filter). Hasn't vapor locked since. The only thing I've noticed is that during a 2nd gear pull , the 750 quadrajet will pull the bowl dry. Let off, and it snaps back. But that doesn't always happen.
Pink Teflon for fuel white will dissolve pretty quick
dodge vehicles once had fuel filter with side exit for fuel return. might help someone looking at line routing.
while I agree with hating welding on tanks, there is another solution, i have done several times for other reasons, easier, simpler, take off the filler from tank, leave tank in place, now just clean metal filler, and drill a hole & braze a piece of metal line into it, i have always faced it down into tank, but bent 90 degrees, & just find a line with hose barbs, 6" or so long, then once reattach it, you attach your return line to it,
the reason i did the returns is many times in my youth i liked to travel, and had a tank i installed in trunk 6-10 gallons, thats how I added gas to my tank while driving, i just used a small fuel pump. but to me easier than spending money, & I have brazed hose barb to line, but dont recommend unless your good with torch.
When I saw you drop the tank, I thought you were going to plumb a T fitting into the fill neck or the fill vent.
Not a bad idea lol. I have an in cab on my 76 so return line into the tank is difficult to achieve
1. Run a high pressure fuel pump with pressure regulator right before the carb.
2. Run an inline line bleed-back control valve close to the carb.
This is most likely your issue vs true vapor lock. The fuel just drains back to the pump or tank -
if you fill a used tank with water, after washing it out with soap, you can safely weld or braise it
How do you INDEX the fuel filter ? The returning line nipple .
I have the msd efi and I have a vapor locking problem. It is a high priced system, with no data to hook it up in something , that’s not a mustang or Camaro . A weekend toy! And can’t get the techs on the phone, some act ok. But, some are a little bit hostile. And you still can’t get any information about putting it on my van or the fix for my problem!
where to buy this thing? my mgb has a return line and vapor locks like realy bad.
In all honesty, having the return back to the tank is probably better for everything in the long run. Not just for the vapor lock issue.
Is that called a vapor separator fuel filter? With or without orifice for carburetor?
What fuel filter did you use?
I burn non-ethanol only in my older trucks , more $ / gallon, but well worth it
Will this work on a 1946 Chevy truck?
Good video buddy
What about the section between the 3 nipple filter and the carb? That is still going to deadhead, will it not vaporlock there?
All the stump jumpers around me used a wood clothes pin on fuel line close to carb.
what does that do?
@steven-ky2ps kept vapor down by venting of heat. It's been years ago but supposedly it helped with vapor lock also. And it was cheaper and a little easier .
What's the update? Did it work the next summer?
Could you eliminate the mech pump, install electric and reroute the fuel line up near fender and keep away from the exhaust mani? I've been fighting this for a few months and wondering to see your results 😊
Where can I get this part
What is the part # of the filter?
I saw the position of the filter and fuel line... what stops me from rerouting the filter and line away from the block/exhaust by a couple inches to a foot?
Great video
Your imagination & ability to relocate it are the only obstacles.
That fitting you call "this nifty thing" on Amazon, what is it called? Item number?
5/16 barb x 1/4 npt brass fitting
outstanding
I have the same filter on my boat with an electric fuel pump and my problem is gone.
Just get a new sending unit
I got one for my 70 dodge with the return already in
Typical government. Always messing stuff up. Ive had to put one of those filters on my 86
I hope the rubber gasket on you're amazon brass fitting is for fuel, or it will say bye bye in no time.
👏👏
brother, that light on your head is a pain in the eyes
Holley sniper efi is trash. Had it 4 years acts fine one day and crap the next. RFI ISSUES
Adama