It's VERY important to neutralize it - that's what Fast Etch is really good for. If you don't it will pop back out a few years down the road and you'll need to address it and re spray then. Adam's project C10 had some lower door rust that he sanded flat but didn't neutralize and it has rust bubbles now even though it was buried in filler, primer, and paint.
Got the 1970 Monte Carlo at the Transmission shop. Got the back top rear seat recovered...can not wait to start getting the interior corrected and then work on the main body. One day I might have a actual shop. PS its better to just hear you talk then that music in the back ground.
Yes that's correct. After Weld dissolves and neutralizes rust, pre painting prep cleans the surface off and stops the reaction, Epoxy preps the panel for paint.
I've used After Blast, Fast Etch and, Rust Disolver. Now this video he's using After Weld. Just why so many metal prep products. For decades I've used Metal Prep and Scotch Brite pads, then wipe down with lacquer thinner. I personally like Fast Etch, any reason to change?
They're all similar with slightly different purposes, if you're getting the results you want keep on going! We actually have a video coming out in the next couple weeks diving into the differences between our rust products - stay tuned.
most likely you are letting it sit on the panel for too long or applying it to a hot panel? If you are still having problems our tech team is here to help! 800 343 9353
Maybe, but it won't convert the rust inside the pits. This will work into the pitted areas quickly dissolving iron oxide completely and leaving a zinc phosphate coating - so it won't come back later.
OptiFlow Black Epoxy Primer: www.eastwood.com/eastwood-optiflow-roll-on-epoxy-primer-black-quart.html?+epoxy+marks+garage
"Limited Attention Span". You're singing my song!
So you don't need to neutralize the acid after wiping with water and clean rags? Great to save time. 80 grit DA , and then epoxy.
We say to spray Pre-Painting Prep, a solvent, and wipe off while still wet. That will neutralize the acid and then you can move forward.
Ole mark knocking it out in the ole Hey dudes lol
Word on the street is that his family told him he had to look more "Florida"
How imperative is it to get every spec of rust out of the pits and such when using an epoxy primer? Wouldn't it seal it in preventing growth?
It's VERY important to neutralize it - that's what Fast Etch is really good for. If you don't it will pop back out a few years down the road and you'll need to address it and re spray then. Adam's project C10 had some lower door rust that he sanded flat but didn't neutralize and it has rust bubbles now even though it was buried in filler, primer, and paint.
Got the 1970 Monte Carlo at the Transmission shop. Got the back top rear seat recovered...can not wait to start getting the interior corrected and then work on the main body. One day I might have a actual shop. PS its better to just hear you talk then that music in the back ground.
Nice!
What am I missing here? What is the order of products used in sequence??? 1. After Weld. 2. Pre-Painting Prep 3. Optiflow Epoxy. Is that right?
Yes that's correct. After Weld dissolves and neutralizes rust, pre painting prep cleans the surface off and stops the reaction, Epoxy preps the panel for paint.
Hey Mark, you my neighbor in Bradenton FLA?? 😂 Best of luck with your move and family
How long can you leave it in 2k epoxy primer
Great video
Glad you enjoyed it
I've used After Blast, Fast Etch and, Rust Disolver. Now this video he's using After Weld. Just why so many metal prep products. For decades I've used Metal Prep and Scotch Brite pads, then wipe down with lacquer thinner. I personally like Fast Etch, any reason to change?
They're all similar with slightly different purposes, if you're getting the results you want keep on going! We actually have a video coming out in the next couple weeks diving into the differences between our rust products - stay tuned.
Sometimes when I use Fast Etch it turns sticky when I try to wipe it off with the Pre. Am I doing something wrong?
most likely you are letting it sit on the panel for too long or applying it to a hot panel? If you are still having problems our tech team is here to help! 800 343 9353
You can remove rust like that with cheap vinegar
Maybe, but it won't convert the rust inside the pits. This will work into the pitted areas quickly dissolving iron oxide completely and leaving a zinc phosphate coating - so it won't come back later.
@@eastwoodco of course it will - anywhere it has contact it will react and convert. Old time guys have done that for years.
@@fakdaddy75phosphoric acid is a lot better. I have tested for decades
I don't see rust pits being chemiclly converted. Not for me. I treat my metal by a metal conditioner then by a phosphoric acid.
One of the main active ingredients in after weld is phosphoric acid...