Very awesome job detailing the steps. I just got a 71 Plymouth Satellite and I've wanted to do the same as what you did. Looking forward to seeing the rest of your content!
well done champ you could have used a flat disc sandpaper 80 grit with a rubber backing disc on a drill to remove the paint then go over it with a finer grade sandpaper to eliminate scratches prior to the sealant but your end result is great
@@russelblackwell6041 thank you for the tip. I’ll try it on the quarter panels and roof. I have a few of these angle grinder stripping disks so i was using what i had on hand. Thanks for the views
I have a 20 gallon Husky compressor and Husky HVLP gun with a 1.4 tip that i bought like 10 years ago. I have two small water separators after about 30 ft of coil up air hose and then another hose to the gun and a small filter right at the gun. It’s not much but it’s enough for small jobs like this.
I’ve used it in my 92 civic when I repaired some rust around the windshield. On that i cut out the rot and welded patch panels but i used the fast etch for light pitting and the rust encapsulator in the hard to reach areas like pillars or the backside after welding was finished. It’s a better option than just using rattle can primer. On these fender I removed as much rust as possible with the wire wheel and then used the fast etch to chemically treat the rust before applying rust encapsulator on the backside of the fenders. I didn’t cover the rust, it was already mechanically and chemically removed or treated. I just decided not to remove all the primer on the backside because it was still solid wherever i left it. Some areas it flaked right off and some areas it was still good. you can see in the video on the front side i took it to bare metal and used fast etch to treat the metal to prevent flash rust. I wouldn’t suggest taking a rusty part and cover it with rust encapsulator without first removing the rust and chemically treating the metal. All in all I’m happy with the rust encapsulator.
@@jimdrechsel3611 yeah. I think they mostly focus the use of it on heavy gauge metal like a chassis or a differential, stuff that probably didn’t get paint from the factory. They also market it towards the hard to reach areas like channels and inside rocker panels that aren’t rotted but the only real thing you can do is spray something inside. Only time will tell how it holds up. I used it on the back of the fender because I figured it will see water splashing so I thought having something that has rust preventing properties was a good idea. Thanks for your questions and input.
I appreciate this video, sir! I could not hear what you said about what you were using immediately after the wire wheel. Were you using household cleanser to remove the dust left behind by the wire wheel?
Thanks for your input. I’m really not familiar with the pick and file method. From what I’ve read, you basically file down the high spots and hammer and dolly out the low spots? That’s true metal work. From looking at the panel after the epoxy layed down, all those tiny low spots won’t make a difference once i level it out using guide coat. I’m more concerned about the dents and previous repairs that were done by the previous owner who just slapped globs of body filler on the panels instead of working the dents out first. In my book, there’s nothing wrong with a little body filler if you use it correctly. Thanks for the views
Aftermarket fender or original fender is the big question sometimes. I want to keep as much original metal as possible. Plus the goal is to have a running driving car for under $6,000 which is my budget for this car. So spending over 500 for a set of “new” fenders is out of the question. Doing the labor myself on my free time means it’s cheaper for me to strip down and work with the originals than to just slap aftermarket ones on it.
Because a honda fender would just be replaced for cheaper than the bottle of fast etch i used. There is a play list of my Honda eg stuff on my channel if you want to just watch that stuff. Thanks for the comments and views,
Very awesome job detailing the steps. I just got a 71 Plymouth Satellite and I've wanted to do the same as what you did. Looking forward to seeing the rest of your content!
Thank you so much, very helpful.
A lot of work but it came out pretty nice.
Good video. Happy Motoring.
well done champ you could have used a flat disc sandpaper 80 grit with a rubber backing disc on a drill to remove the paint then go over it with a finer grade sandpaper to eliminate scratches prior to the sealant but your end result is great
@@russelblackwell6041 thank you for the tip. I’ll try it on the quarter panels and roof. I have a few of these angle grinder stripping disks so i was using what i had on hand. Thanks for the views
Awesome!!!
It looks amazing man!
Thanks
Nice job 👍 JR
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Looking good what kind of setup do you have for your paint gun
I have a 20 gallon Husky compressor and Husky HVLP gun with a 1.4 tip that i bought like 10 years ago. I have two small water separators after about 30 ft of coil up air hose and then another hose to the gun and a small filter right at the gun. It’s not much but it’s enough for small jobs like this.
Have you used the rust encapsulator before? How do you like it? It’s doesn’t feel right covering rust.. thanks for sharing
I’ve used it in my 92 civic when I repaired some rust around the windshield. On that i cut out the rot and welded patch panels but i used the fast etch for light pitting and the rust encapsulator in the hard to reach areas like pillars or the backside after welding was finished. It’s a better option than just using rattle can primer. On these fender I removed as much rust as possible with the wire wheel and then used the fast etch to chemically treat the rust before applying rust encapsulator on the backside of the fenders. I didn’t cover the rust, it was already mechanically and chemically removed or treated. I just decided not to remove all the primer on the backside because it was still solid wherever i left it. Some areas it flaked right off and some areas it was still good. you can see in the video on the front side i took it to bare metal and used fast etch to treat the metal to prevent flash rust. I wouldn’t suggest taking a rusty part and cover it with rust encapsulator without first removing the rust and chemically treating the metal. All in all I’m happy with the rust encapsulator.
@@dailyhondas1480thanks for the reply. Funny because that’s the way Eastwood makes it seem. Get the big stuff off and encapsulate it.
@@jimdrechsel3611 yeah. I think they mostly focus the use of it on heavy gauge metal like a chassis or a differential, stuff that probably didn’t get paint from the factory. They also market it towards the hard to reach areas like channels and inside rocker panels that aren’t rotted but the only real thing you can do is spray something inside. Only time will tell how it holds up. I used it on the back of the fender because I figured it will see water splashing so I thought having something that has rust preventing properties was a good idea. Thanks for your questions and input.
I appreciate this video, sir! I could not hear what you said about what you were using immediately after the wire wheel. Were you using household cleanser to remove the dust left behind by the wire wheel?
Thanks for watching. I used wax and grease remover or acetone for cleaning after the wire wheel and for every other cleaning step
@@dailyhondas1480 , that makes sense. Cool. Thank you, sir. Your video helps me to be more confident as I begin my work on my 1964 Oldsmobile.
Awesomeness😮😊
A more thorough job than you when you get while paying someone for the task. Good luck and nice vid !!!!
Yeah, I’ve seen shops paint right over rust. They make it look shiny but underneath it’s all bad metal. Thanks for the views
You could have used the pick and file method to get out those hundreds of low spots and saved yourself some bodywork.
Thanks for your input. I’m really not familiar with the pick and file method. From what I’ve read, you basically file down the high spots and hammer and dolly out the low spots? That’s true metal work. From looking at the panel after the epoxy layed down, all those tiny low spots won’t make a difference once i level it out using guide coat. I’m more concerned about the dents and previous repairs that were done by the previous owner who just slapped globs of body filler on the panels instead of working the dents out first. In my book, there’s nothing wrong with a little body filler if you use it correctly. Thanks for the views
Where is your safety glasses 🥽
In the description
The time you spend you could just buy a new fender lol
Aftermarket fender or original fender is the big question sometimes. I want to keep as much original metal as possible. Plus the goal is to have a running driving car for under $6,000 which is my budget for this car. So spending over 500 for a set of “new” fenders is out of the question. Doing the labor myself on my free time means it’s cheaper for me to strip down and work with the originals than to just slap aftermarket ones on it.
No safety equipment no mask no safety glasses, doing this around children's toys ,this cat is more foam then beer
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Why mustang fender, instead of a...HONDA ONE??!!!!!😢 You're a Honda channel😮
Because a honda fender would just be replaced for cheaper than the bottle of fast etch i used. There is a play list of my Honda eg stuff on my channel if you want to just watch that stuff. Thanks for the comments and views,
Wear eye protection please.
is it smart that you dont have mask on while removing rust? 😬
Probably not, always use safety equipment
Maybe even more important……
Eye goggle protection ⚠️