Man, That's great content. So much better. A fuller understanding of what you're working on. Nice work Maine Man! This is actually the first time I've ever subscribed! Where I'm at in my bug build (67) I find myself wishing I knew more details. Thanks for sharing
Thank you so much for watching. I really appreciate the comment as well. I don’t exclusively do VW content, but I do mix a fair amount in. I’ll be bringing more Aircooled videos out soon. Is there anything particular that you’d like to see?
Just sourced pdsit 2&3 solex" parts" carbs as my chokes were missing hoping to rebuild set up & get running sweet.This vid been saved for reference THANK you...
This is fantastic content mate I really enjoyed it. I had a rough understanding of this before but your video just made everything fall into place. I'm now gonna look for your video on the electric fuel cut off
Great info on these chokes by VW. I've been chasing my tail with this issue for some time. My German Solex gave out at the throttle plate bushings and I could not afford another, so I opted for a BBT Chinese clone and was about to give up on it, when it occurred to me my issues were the jet was too big, changed, and choke was never hooked up properly. These two issues alone got it back on the road. I will still have to do some minor air fuel and air bypass adjustments but feel good to have made some small progress
Wow thank you very much. I have a new to me bus and I can’t for the life of me keep it running. I think I have a floppy misaligned choke spring. Cost me a $800 tow to get my new car back home with a funky adjustment. Live and learn I guess
Thanks for the info. I assume you would adjust the position of the choke starting position if you lived in a warmer/hot climate. As the ambient temp is higher
My car has an aftermarket carb. It starts fine and runs well but when I arrive about 7 miles later it is idling very fast. I checked the VW official manual and one of the problems listed was the heater element. It also listed choke valve or fast idle cam sticking. When I look in the engine nothing seems stuck. Would disconnecting the auto choke give me the answer as to the problem and what might I expect with that done? Muir explains how to do this. Still learning - there is only one person able to work on this car and he is quite busy with other things.
Interesting, Nicely Illustrated... 👍 I have 2 Buggies (64 and 74), my 74 chokes after I drive it about 1 mile to a mile and a half, (Since there's a connection) Is there any certain fuses I can Check (If blown) that would prevent my choke to properly function? I was planning on troubleshooting it first to see if I can fix it Prior to taking it to the Shop... 😊
Check with a test light to see if power is at the choke when the key is turned on. Then make the adjustment on the Choke as shown here. That’s about all you can do
I'd like to remove my shut off solenoid. I just watched that great video too. My solenoid is allmost in my way for my Gold Wing . What can I use to plug the hole? I just thought///the area inside will flood with gas. Depending how many threads my plug has. Thread size? Hardware didn't have it.
Any idea what might be up if my bus sometimes starts with the choke in action and runs great until i tap the pedal, and sometimes it does not activate and i have to give her some pedal so she wont die at cold start.. ?
After reaching operating temperature and the choke butterfly is wide open, is it normal for the choke solenoid to be extremely hot to the human Hand. Its really hot
All bets are off for us baja owners. Most engine tin gone, no flaps (on mine and many others'), and an open air engine that probably gets better cooling overall in general, since its not enclosed under a deck lid. Way more airflow and cooling on the carb and choke element.
This is a good point. I have a pipe frame buggy we have registered as an off road ATV here in Maine. I have the choke mechanism on it but I’ve considered running a manual choke of some kind just for those reasons. I bet it stays choked longer than it should. That would be a pretty neat video…. Checking and experimenting with the choke in a open engine environment…
*Could this have been reason why my car started running real CRAPPY when I brought it home from the mechanic? Looked at my Choke element and it was DISCONNECTED, i.e., spade lug pulled off. They worked on the carb and obviously forgot to reconnect it. Hot Summer day. Not sure how much ambient Summer heat also factored in...*
Yes. VW had 12v power that activated when the key switch was turned to the ON position. That’s ideal, but I person could run an independent power line with a switch if they wanted to be able to turn the choke on manually.
It's great to explain how it works as one of the few, but then do explain in detail how it works: the spring doesn't just move counterclockwise because of the heat: it weakens the metal and therefor the spring, making the spring crunch to a smaller (shorter) spring and thus rotate counterclockwise.
Aircooled Volkswagens have a thermostat, although it’s often removed. Every VW produced from 1949 until the end of production in 2002 had a thermostat installed by the factory
Man, That's great content. So much better. A fuller understanding of what you're working on. Nice work Maine Man! This is actually the first time I've ever subscribed! Where I'm at in my bug build (67) I find myself wishing I knew more details. Thanks for sharing
Thank you so much for watching. I really appreciate the comment as well. I don’t exclusively do VW content, but I do mix a fair amount in. I’ll be bringing more Aircooled videos out soon. Is there anything particular that you’d like to see?
Great stuff. Awesome explanation how it works.
Thanks so much!
Damn. It’s just like an egg timer that starts ticking when the ignition is turned on.
Thanks 🤘🏼
That’s a pretty good analogy!
Just sourced pdsit 2&3 solex" parts" carbs as my chokes were missing hoping to rebuild set up & get running sweet.This vid been saved for reference THANK you...
Thanks for watching and I hope you got it all worked out!
This is fantastic content mate I really enjoyed it. I had a rough understanding of this before but your video just made everything fall into place. I'm now gonna look for your video on the electric fuel cut off
Glad it was helpful!
Thanks for posting this. First time I had one of these in my hand I assumed that when the coil was heated it would expand not curl up and get smaller.
Glad it was helpful. I was surprised too when I started playing around with these to see how they worked!
Great info on these chokes by VW. I've been chasing my tail with this issue for some time. My German Solex gave out at the throttle plate bushings and I could not afford another, so I opted for a BBT Chinese clone and was about to give up on it, when it occurred to me my issues were the jet was too big, changed, and choke was never hooked up properly. These two issues alone got it back on the road. I will still have to do some minor air fuel and air bypass adjustments but feel good to have made some small progress
I hope you get it all straightened out soon!
You can rebush and fit spindles on any carb keeping original carb the best outcome to retain Solex imo..Good luck.😊
At last l have found a good explanation 😊
Thanks for watching!
Wow thank you very much. I have a new to me bus and I can’t for the life of me keep it running. I think I have a floppy misaligned choke spring. Cost me a $800 tow to get my new car back home with a funky adjustment. Live and learn I guess
Great Video. Could you tell me if the electric choke piece is interchangeable between the 3 carburetor's. I looking to update my 28 pict to 12 volt ?
Thanks for the info. I assume you would adjust the position of the choke starting position if you lived in a warmer/hot climate. As the ambient temp is higher
You could try different starting points, but the Bentley Manual just recommends one setting. Kind of interesting.
My car has an aftermarket carb. It starts fine and runs well but when I arrive about 7 miles later it is idling very fast. I checked the VW official manual and one of the problems listed was the heater element. It also listed choke valve or fast idle cam sticking. When I look in the engine nothing seems stuck. Would disconnecting the auto choke give me the answer as to the problem and what might I expect with that done? Muir explains how to do this. Still learning - there is only one person able to work on this car and he is quite busy with other things.
Interesting, Nicely Illustrated... 👍
I have 2 Buggies (64 and 74), my 74 chokes after I drive it about 1 mile to a mile and a half, (Since there's a connection) Is there any certain fuses I can Check (If blown) that would prevent my choke to properly function?
I was planning on troubleshooting it first to see if I can fix it Prior to taking it to the Shop... 😊
Check with a test light to see if power is at the choke when the key is turned on. Then make the adjustment on the Choke as shown here.
That’s about all you can do
@@MaineMachinistPerfectly Said, Great Idea, I'll Try That... 😊
Nice information. 👍
Thank you!
I'd like to remove my shut off solenoid. I just watched that great video too.
My solenoid is allmost in my way for my Gold Wing .
What can I use to plug the hole?
I just thought///the area inside will flood with gas.
Depending how many threads my plug has.
Thread size? Hardware didn't have it.
I’m away right now but I’ll try to investigate this when I’m home
Good 👍
Thank you!
Any idea what might be up if my bus sometimes starts with the choke in action and runs great until i tap the pedal, and sometimes it does not activate and i have to give her some pedal so she wont die at cold start.. ?
Could be carburetor icing from clogged heat riser tubes. See my video on cleaning heat risers.
wow, thanks!
Glad it was helpful!
Finally understood how my choke works 😄 is this type of choke called something, automatic or electronic?
@@Aircooledbliss most people just call it an electric choke
After reaching operating temperature and the choke butterfly is wide open, is it normal for the choke solenoid to be extremely hot to the human Hand. Its really hot
It shouldn’t be that hot in my opinion
All bets are off for us baja owners. Most engine tin gone, no flaps (on mine and many others'), and an open air engine that probably gets better cooling overall in general, since its not enclosed under a deck lid. Way more airflow and cooling on the carb and choke element.
This is a good point. I have a pipe frame buggy we have registered as an off road ATV here in Maine. I have the choke mechanism on it but I’ve considered running a manual choke of some kind just for those reasons. I bet it stays choked longer than it should. That would be a pretty neat video…. Checking and experimenting with the choke in a open engine environment…
*Could this have been reason why my car started running real CRAPPY when I brought it home from the mechanic? Looked at my Choke element and it was DISCONNECTED, i.e., spade lug pulled off. They worked on the carb and obviously forgot to reconnect it. Hot Summer day. Not sure how much ambient Summer heat also factored in...*
Yes it absolutely will impact it
Someone put this carb on a 87 Tercel I bought.
What could I use to power my choke? You said Volkswagens use the coil?
Cheers
Yes. VW had 12v power that activated when the key switch was turned to the ON position.
That’s ideal, but I person could run an independent power line with a switch if they wanted to be able to turn the choke on manually.
@@MaineMachinist cheers
I'll get a meter out and find a 12v source. I need to figure out why the throttle binds up with the choke on also
It's great to explain how it works as one of the few, but then do explain in detail how it works: the spring doesn't just move counterclockwise because of the heat: it weakens the metal and therefor the spring, making the spring crunch to a smaller (shorter) spring and thus rotate counterclockwise.
It doesn’t “weaken” it
What happens when choke is disconnected
You’ll have hard starting, stalling and flat spots
no electronics in a bi metal coilonly electricity
Thermostat? 🤔
Aircooled Volkswagens have a thermostat, although it’s often removed. Every VW produced from 1949 until the end of production in 2002 had a thermostat installed by the factory
𝐩𝐫𝐨𝐦𝐨𝐬𝐦