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- เผยแพร่เมื่อ 26 พ.ย. 2018
- I wanted to update and revisit the popular Solex 34 PICT-3 carburetor. I will explain how to adjust it on the car and on the bench. I will try to explain why you have that stumble at launch and how to get rid of it. DIY and DO IT RIGHT!
- ยานยนต์และพาหนะ
I think I learned more about that carb in 23 minutes than I have since I bought my 74 super beetle 43 years ago.
EZGZ is THE KING of KINGS
you all probably dont care at all but does anyone know a tool to get back into an instagram account??
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@Yael Yahir Instablaster :)
@Kason Dario Thanks for your reply. I got to the site on google and Im trying it out atm.
Takes quite some time so I will get back to you later with my results.
@Kason Dario it did the trick and I actually got access to my account again. Im so happy!
Thank you so much you saved my account !
Every other vw person speaks in riddles....
Thanks for being the one understandable teacher
id been looking for videos about vw carburators as to how to clean them and etc. so far, your the only one here i found who explains it very well. thumbs up for you sir!
Great Video Buddy!! I wish I was as smart as you on this stuff. Thanks for sharing your vast knowledge of VW’s with all of us that have the same passion as you. Keep showing us how it’s done the right way and have a good rest of your week. Stay safe and warm. BigW:-)
You just gained a new subscriber! I learned more in this video than the last 50 Vdub videos I've watched! Very well explained and intuitive. Thanks for the video, I'll be watching this one a few times. Maybe I can get the old Glitterbug sportsman running like a champ!
Sir, I would like to thank you for making this video. I used your advice and tuned my little Chinese knock-off carburetor as you said and it runs so amazing. I made the mistake many have with trying to use the idle screw on the linkage. Now it runs perfect. Not only does it not flood itself after I shut it off, but I actually feel the progression ports kick in! Thank you again!
Congratulations! I appreciate the support!
Good video. Good to brush up on adjusting the old Solex carbs. Thank you.
Wow been fighting to get an engine to idle right changed out two carbs same problem, going to follow your instructions on adjustments, thanks
This is really helpful! I've a 71 Westy with a 34 PICT3 on a 1600DP and, sure as heck, I have that stumble on take off. Should give it a rebuild, cleaning, and a proper adjustment thanks to your video!
Excellent video. Please do more of the basic stuff ...it’s very good information for those of us that don’t have as much experience!
Thats good feedback. Thank you!
The carb on the bench is the one my VW has, so I really appreciate this video as a first time bug owner!
Glad you liked it!
Your an ace in the hole..been 20 years since I worked on a vw.carb and you showed more than I ever knew. Thanks Sir from Oregon 👉👍👈
Glad to help
Excellent video buddy,I always learn something new. I had no idea about the little progressive holes just above the butterfly. Thanks for sharing !
Yep it pays to have a factory service manual sometimes.
@@TheEZGZ I should definitely try to round one up. I have a great book but not a manual.😕
I have to thank you for making a clear and concise explanation of the 34PICT-3. The best part was your explaining of that chock idle screw. I have been trying to get my 72 running without that dang flat spot. Everything I read was make contact then turn in another 1/4 to 1/2 turn. I will follow your way and hopefully make my bug run right, this 75 year old thanks you. P.S. I have washed gas for many years to get rid that Ethanol, finally I can get pure gas 15 miles away.
I'm so glad that I watched this video! This is the best, no bullshit video on vw carbs.
Thanks for this! I have this carb on my ‘66, and it’s my second carbed car (first was a ‘33 chevy). i had no idea what all the things were. The chevy was much simpler 😜 So thanks again for the lesson! One step closer to starting it 😁
Glad I could help
Hi there! Hope you're doing well!
I must admit that you make the most understanding videos concerning carburetor adjustments and believe me, you're very helpful as I own an Opel Kadett C with a Solex 35 PDSI on it, very similar to yours.
Thanks a lot and Keep up the good job!
Take care!
I appreciate your support! Glad you found it helpful.
What a great VDO got a 31 solex but it has helped me understand the basics and i think she sounds and runs better now
I was a VW mechanic in the 60's and again for a while in the late 70's and I forgot more than I am able to remember. I recently scored a VW trike with a '72 engine. Thanks for the refresher, it seems to be coming back a little at a time (with your help)..
Hey James. Don't feel like the Lone Ranger. I gotta go back and watch some of my own vids to remember how and what I did. Old age is not for sissy's.
Excellent video, very helpful. Just for extra info: I had an off idle hesitation/stumble on a Solex 34 pic-3 that I just could not seem to fix. Nothing I did seemed to make a difference. What was even more frustrating is it seemed to "fix its self" in the summer months only to come back as soon as the temp dropped below 55 deg. Rebuilt the carb, replaced the choke element, almost gave up and bought a new carb. It ended up being a completely plugged manifold heat riser tube. Clearing that out and then following the adjustment procedure in this video made a 100% improvement. Thank you!!!
Thank you. I'm currently learning about this. Just got my PICT 3 carb cleaned/rebuilt. Ran fine for 1 day & then stalled out at the stop sign when put in neutral. The shop adjusted it to 1200rpm. My friend and I played around with the choke a bit. It felt like ran fast (engine) abit but when it didn't stall for one day but felt the rate of engine idle decrease but not stall at a stop. Took it out today but then stalled out again- same thing. Tried to accelerate in first but then started to stall out again. Thanks for the interesting video. Got the 74 beetle from family- driven during summers and stored during winters for almost 10 yrs.
Some times one cleaning and rebuild isn't enough. You may have to check and reclean to get the specs right. When you get the fuel and air screw just where you like it you might want to turn out the fuel screw 1/4 turn out to richen it up.
Really great - thanks, I upgraded to a Pict-3 on my 1500, this has really helped me understand it better
Great to hear!
Wow.... I was really surprised that this help me a lot.. I have a 1966 vw with a 1600 engine... I have a better understanding of the carburetor that I just purchased.. thank you.
Thanks for another great video. I love your videos they help me a lot. Wishing you all the best.
my car was boggin and i always thought the small screw was the air i would screw it in until it bogged then back off till smooth , but now that i know that was the fuel screw i fattened it up like you said and my bug is runnin purrrr-fect!! Thank you!! EZ You're the KING!!
Glad I could help. Hope you get lots of smiles to the miles.
finally a guy that just gets to the point. thank you
This is a really good video, apart from some parts i can identify (from having been told to purchase them) i have definitely learned something new today. Thank you
Thanks for the comment and feed back. Good Luck with your project.
excellent video. I've been having the flat spot on acceleration and a high idle all on a new carburetor. ill use this information and hopefully get back on the road! thanks
Never take a new carburetor out of the box and just put it in service without taking it apart and checking the float level and inlet valve. Remove all the jets and screws to make sure everything looks and tests OK. You wouldn't believe all the things that can be wrong. Just sayin. I am sure you did all that.
I just came across this ! Wow what an awesome segment ! Im for sure going to re watch this a few times! Thank you & I hope you are all good down in Colo !
Glad you enjoyed it!
Best video about this carb on the internet. Thanks!
Wow, thanks!
Those are some great tips and explanation of adjustment preceedures. Great job GZ !
I'm tryin. I appreciate your friendship and support Loyd
...thanx for the info...i have a Pict-34 and its doing everything you've said..."stay tuned"...
The best I've seen. Thank you!
Best video.. explains in more detail how the whole carb works and parts… for me anyways it helped me big time after a year of stalling at stop signs
Glad it helped. Have a great day!
I tried all the carb tricks and my bogg was timing at 28 degrees! Advanced it to 32 and presto no more bogg. 009 with now vac pod. Needs more timing in cold areas or in winters in Az.
Saw that on one of your other videos. ;)
Great info. Got a VW Bus and had a Chinese replacement, still got the old 34 Pict3, s this was really useful.
Very cool!
Really good video, thanks mate for clear and precise instructions, Happy Days!
Thanks Alan! I appreciate the support
The best 34 pict 3 carb video on TH-cam
Great Minds thing alike. God Bless
Brilliant video!! Helped me with my 68 bug!:)
Thanks for letting me know. Give that choke screw an extra 1/4 turn just to make sure it is the stop and not the butterfly :-)
Hi from Germany!
They started on rebuilding the 34 pict 3‘s over here to 37 and 39 mm butterflys, changing the venturis if wanted to larger ones and of course changing the jets. Runs absolutely fantastic on 1679 to 1915 cc engines. No more space problems with duals in beetles, no synchronizing, stock airfilter and looks but very good torque from idle up. You should try these ones out on Valery ! You will never again spend money on Webers or Dellortos
Bjoern from Germany
Sounds like a dream come true. Where do I go to buy one? Can you give me a link to website or what.
Was thinking about enlargement and wondering at what point the intake manifold would become a problem with those larger venturi's. It would also need plenty of heat on that manifold.
Type „Solex 39“ on the german eBay site which is eBay.de and the first hit will be the solex 34 pict 3 with 39 mm throttle
TheEZGZ
Here is what I did and why:
trying to get some more torque and hp out of my 1969 1500 singleport Karmann-Ghia coupe without touching or opening the crankcase because of matching numbers and so on and without changing the look of the engine:
Replaced pistons and cylinders to 88 mm AA Performance slippers, 044 heads with 40 mm intake and 35.5 mm outtake valves, compression ratio was 8,25:1, stock heater boxes, stock exaust, 1.25:1 ratio rocker arms.
Result on dyno: 79 hp @ wheels and 144 NM of torque, gps measured real top speed on highway was 161 km/h with stock gearbox - incredible to me.
But I kept on doing some more:
Some work on the ports plus polishing, compression ratio up to 8.6:1, heater boxes with also 35.5 mm diameter, 123 Electronic ignition
TheEZGZ
But still haven‘t been on the dyno again but sounds and feels stronger and of course even faster. Tryed out my solid shaft 1.4:1 rocker arms finally after lying around my garage for years...Never dared to shorten pushrods, but finally did.
Torque torque torque...😎
Thank you for posting this. Great explanation
Glad it helped. Good Luck with your project
Thank you!!!You have helped me so much today Brother!😁
Glad to hear it!
Hey buddy thank you for the oldskool knowledge
This is on my 72 super. Thanks for giving your knowledge.
Glad to help
I help a friend build a 1600 for his sand rail. It had a 34 PICT-3 we looked up the spec. and step by step how to adjust. The rail would just fall on it's face in 2nd gear. Read somewhere about opening up the jets we did runs great. Do not know if it was dumb luck or the guy that provided the info knew what he was talking about. Good info on the 34 I'm always trying to learn more about them.
Thanks Dan. I'm always hoping one of those guys will come along and share those secrets with us.
A lot of helpful info, mostly correct. Good that commenters explained about pre-loading screw slightly to prevent butterfly from jamming closed in bore. Car will run better with moderately richer jetting according to altitude. Factory jets were desperate attempt to meet 1970s USA emissions standards (California even tougher) Three inch “ velocity stack” built into stock air cleaner is also important for perfect performance especially in off-idle transition. AND PLEASE !!! Don’t even suggest disarming the elegantly simple and effective warm-up choke system. DON’T let the car sit at idle for 5 minutes to warm up. Most engine wear happens during that time. Keep the choke working as it’s designed, stock air cleaner with 2” paper hot air hose in place, crankcase vent hose and steel pre-heat pipe clear & hooked to hot exhaust flow. Those “intake pre-heat things might be removed ONLY if ambient temp is warm & there is NO trace of carb getting cold. A frosty “snowball carb” is not unusual when designed system is discarded. Over-hyped 009 distributor is usually part of the problems too.
Good to hear that you agree to most of the vid. You have a very good understanding of the VW engine design. Since the vid was made I have changed to a new SVDA pertronix pointless distributor. The engine is much happier and gets a few more MPG to boot. You should consider making some vids to help the VW community. I agree on just a touch of preload. Thanks for you comment and support.
Great information, thanks for sharing!
Thank you Greg, I really appreciate it!
Back at you my friend
G'day Kevin here from Australia. Thanks for another great video.
Just on a different subject would you be able to go over the plumbing to the carburetors on your sand rail and bugy. Im interested in how you ran your fuel lines. And if you put in a fuel pressure regulator or not.
Thanks again for your great channel.
Thanks that gives some information when attacking project
Glad I could help
Very nice video with a nice exlepnation
Thanks for the video, I'm in denver too! Anyways I need to go through mi carb it's not idling
nice video! thanks, very helpful
Thank you for your explanation!
Thank you learned A LOT Thanks again!
Thank you very much for the lesson , my Citroen Ami6 solex 34 pics carb need cleaning and setting, I will follow your precious advice .
Hello, Thank you for this clear and explicit video, only two remarks.
_ You are right, on warm engine at idle speed the butterfly should be closed (the idle adjustment screw should not touch the fast idle cam) but in this position, the small holes are not all obstructed. Of course, the mixture penetrates into the big hole at the bottom of the well, but at the same time, the mixture also penetrates in the first little hole just above. In order to have the good volume of idle mixture by add up the quantity of these two separate inlets.
_ As you say, on a stock carburetor, the volume control screw is protected by a cap, it means a factory preset. So after a compete overhaul and reset of all screws, we should be able to protect it again and play only with the air bypass screw to increase/decrease the idle speed.
Does this comments make sense for you?
Today's fuel is not the same as it was when the factory set it.
When the factory set it everything was new.
50 years later your going to have to adjust the fuel screw and know matter what you do these engines are polluting the environment. I think everyone watching this video just wants there car to run and drive better.
Apparently, I was not clear with my remark (sorry for my poor English), I will try again.
Yes of course, everyone now knows the fuel is bad quality (environment first), but the quality of the fuel does not vary overnight.
Of course, if the seal of the screw has never been removed, it can not be used without removing the seal and redo a complete adjustment, due to the actual fuel.
I say, after a complete overhaul and once all the carburetor's settings carried out and the engine runs well, after that, we should be able to use only the air bypass screw to adjust the engine idle as the carburetor has been designed like this. The purpose of the volume control screw is to adjust a part of mixture volume during first commissioning settings or after complete disassembly. Once done, this screw can be again sealed because it should be no longer used to adjust the engine idle. The engine idle should be adjusted only with the air bypass screw. Model 34 Pict-3 more complex than previous ones has been designed with the aim of simplifying engine idle adjustment, with this one only a screw to turn. Nothing more, nothing less :)
Once again thank you for your videos that help many people, me the first.
_ Volume control screw = First line of mixture air/fuel (in the well and starting from the bottom, second hole a small one).
_ Air bypass screw = increasing or decreasing of quantity of fresh air in second line of mixture (first hole the big one)
First reset of 34 PICT-3 after disassembly / reassembly or if the plug has never been removed.
_ Set both scews (If always in place, remove the plug)
Readjustment of engine idle due to weather conditions, altitude, etc...
_ Turn only air bypass screw
EZGZ, maybe you can try like this to see if it's not more easy ;)
Great explanation, thanks.
Knew you were in Colorado but wasn't sure where. I'll have to figure out where you do your meet-ups... I'm in Aurora. Took a drive yesterday. What a beautiful day!!
I'm in Loveland, never done a meet up. Drove the Dune buggy up to Estes park today. 70 degrees and dry roads. Rocky National Park was close:-(
Was thinking of paying for a table next year for the spring VW's on the green event. If they allow it?
great info, thanks for sharing
Just like you I try and keep things rolling. Thanks for checking in
👍, Great info on the fuel octane also.
I always remember back in High School being able to buy 97 octane leaded and it being so expensive. Like 79cents a gallon. LOL
Good video. The large upper screw on the choke cam needs to be in contact with the hot idle flat on the cam (just barely) so that the carburetor bore doesn't get torn up by the throttle butterfly at idle. It acts as a positive throttle plate stop so that the soft aluminum carburetor body doesn't have to.
Great tip. Insightful detail. Thank you!
Very good video i learned alot!
Glad to hear it! Sorry for the delay. Comments still mean a lot;! Thanks and have a Merry Christmas.
Excellent video 🤓👍
excellent solved my problem Thanks EZGZ
Tons of great information. Where were you 15 years ago. When I was trying to figure them out?
Right here doing the same stuff without a camera. hehehe
I always ream out the idle jet to about a 60 it actually gives you adjustment ,it runs cooler, you can idle the motor down and if you are REALLY good it almost will run with a 009 (or as good as it can...)
Whatever works for you. If one way doesn't work I just keep trying things until I get it.
Great video thank you very much. My question is do you have any tips on how to diagnose if you have a stuck float needle and how to clean it or fix it?
One way to check is to take the air cleaner off and look down the carb with a flashlight at idle. Have some shut the engine off and restart it after a minute or so. When the engine is off there should be no fuel going down the carb unless you open the throttle and see the accelerator pump squirt.
The truth of the matter is if the carb is old and dirty buy a carb rebuild kit and clean it. You can do this with basic tools. Most carb kits come with a new float needle valve and instructions.
hey EZGZ nice video! but i'd recommend that @3:30 the screw should be 1 turn in not öot, this prevents that the flap will dig in the housing over time. if this happens it will suck wrong air.
That's true. I regret not speaking to that but in general the video seems to be helpful to many VW folks.
Thanks for the tips 👍
Always glad to share my info.
Hello! Thanks for the info. I have a question. The accelerator pump is scraping the alternator. Any suggestions?
make or buy a carb spacer carcraftstore.com/34pictsolexcarbspacer.aspx
Wow after looking at several videos yours help me sooo much. Chock should b cold before justing it?
Just need to check the choke mechanism and then let it fully warm up before tuning it. Then when you think you have it right take it on a test drive. You might want to make some changes...... just sayin
Also a vacuum advance dist. helps with getting rid of any off idle stumble.
I agree :-)
After cleaning my EMPI 34 PICT 3, how do I set and adjust the choke during the carburetor assembly? Do I turn the cover counter clockwise so that the spring/heater element to set the valve choke to close? Or do I just align the dot and groove on the carburetor body and choke cover? Thank you.
Dot and groove and modify according to you needs and temps
Hey EZ, great video! i just rebuilt one and now the fuel is coming out of the top of the carb and flooding it. Its the little pipe that comes from the fuel cell to the top of the choke butterfly. I put another washer in the inlet valve like you mentioned. Am i missing something?
Check the fuel inlet valve. It might not be closing. Check you fuel pressure to the carb. You may have to put the old fuel inlet valve back in ????? Gently tapp on the side of the carb??? Did you get the dog bone on top of the float in right? Maybe your float is bad? See if it will float or try a different one. Something ain't right in there.
Help! Solex H30/31 Pict .. Found a video that u can no longer find. This video here is exceptional! Only problem I am having is finding where the tiny ball bearing like ball goes back into...!!? Please help asap
Great video!
Glad you enjoyed it
Thanks for the reply I think it could possibly be the fuel pump as it had been stood for several years and the ethanol in the fuel has degraded the membrane thank you for your advice
I switched to low pressure electric with a regulator and never looked back. # PSI Do it and be happy
Thank you for sharing your expertise. Does a 30 pict have check balls like your 34?
They all do on the accelerator pump circlet
Hi great vid as always. When you say "3 to 4 turns" is that back from all the way in or 3 to 4 turns in from fully out ?
IN
Great video m8 thank you
Thanks for checking in my friend
I watched this and did everything and the car runs great but... it starts easily when cold, runs great when cold or warm or hot but when you shut it off and wait 5 minutes, it won't start again unless you hold the gas pedal to the floor and let it crank for a couple seconds longer than normal. I would think it's flooded, but why? Shut off valve isn't stuck. Do I need a shut off valve adjustment with a thicker gasket as you mentioned to lower the float? The valves are adjusted correctly, the timing is right and the points gap is good to go at 16 thousandths.
At this point it's trial and error. After you shut it off remove the air cleaner and carefully look down the carb with a flashlight to see if you see fuel leaking down. Might want to open the throttle so you can look all the way down. Put a fuel pressure gauge on it to check your pressure, Don't guess. A fuel gauge is not cheap but if you want it right just do it for peace of mind. If any of your engine compartment seals are missing or leak air it could be heat soaking the fuel system. A tennis ball with a slot cut in it. Place under the engine hood latch to pick up cool air on hot days, kind of like a stand off deck lid but using the bottom of the decklid instead of top. That stopped my vapor locking problem with the new style fuel pumps.
Excellent. Thank you!
Your very welcome. I hope you have success with all your projects.
Ez Great Video!!!!. I have a Solex just like the one you use for your demo Boca 34. Quick question 71' was running great, today I could not get it started gas was spilling out of the vent tube, carb seemed to be overflowing, drowning in gas. Any Ideas or fixes. Thanks
A quick light tap on the side of the carb might loosen up inlet valve above the float. Might be getting old or the float might have a leak. The book has a nice overview of the insides as do the rebuild kits. Good Luck with that
@@TheEZGZ Thanks Ez I'll update you on the outcome.
Brilliant you have a new subscriber
Welcome to my world Steve. I appreciate the comment and support!
You're welcome I have similar issues on my Karmann Ghia, warm starting issues though and someone told me to change out the needle valve on my Bocar pict 34 which I did but my existing needle valve did not have a washer at all the new valve looked slightly different and came with a washer which I used but since then the carb has been flooding, I may go back to the old valve or use the new one without the washer, have also got what appears to be fuel contamination in the engine oil
@@stevehill8512 add the washer to lower the fuel level. Check your fuel pressure and add fiber gasket to lower the fuel pressure. If your in the USA and using ethanol fuel it seems to be thinner. We are switching to the winter blend here in Colorado and all my engines are running a bit ruffer. My plugs even have white deposits. Hard starting on a hot can fuel ponding and if bad enough will delute your oil. If it's bad enough you can smell it or light it on fire. (dipstick) If your engine used to use oil between changes and now it does not it's another sign to check fuel system. The fuel pump itself can possibly leak into the engine block while running. Ethanol grrrrrr
My European 1200 standard 72 30 pic3 was worn at 90k and solex don't make em any more and I ended up with a new Brazilian 30pic bocar manual choke so I had to rig a lawnmower throttle cable thru the engine firewall to get it started in cold weather, its OK and have done 20k miles in 2 years.
Ive got a huge flat spot on my 71 Super Vert...I touched both of those screws.
Have you ever had a problem getting to #2 plug with a plug socket? Dual port manifold gets in the way
Use a SVDA 205 style distributor and buy a thinner spark plug socket or grind down the one you have.
I read this post and had this problem when I was trying to do my plugs, I tried everything. Come to find out a small bolt had fallen down beside the plug and the socket wouldn't go down enough. The only way I figured it out was with my cellphone camera.
great video. thank you
Glad I could help
Hey boss so I have a buggy with the what I was told 75 vw 1600 and both the plugs on the carb are unhooked should I run wiring to them and if so how would I run it?
It should start and run without if the choke is removed or adjusted fully open. Lots of folks take the solenoid out and cut the plug off.
I've put a PICT 34 on my 81 GL 1100 Honda and I'm trying to dial it in . Hopefully, this video will help me out.
Interesting....! The displacement is about the same so hopefully you can make it work.
I have a Buggie and it just won't idle, bought from California and live in Denver..... it did sit for a bit.... would you setup the carb?
What did you have in mind? Can you bring the car to Loveland? Painters grinding does VW work and they are in Denver near Alameda and I-25
You probably can't afford me.
Hay ezgz the 34 pict 3 will only idle ok to good with the air correction jet screwed right in hit bottomed and the fuel jet out about 5 turns , what do you think the problem to be thanks 😊 Harry
The throttle butterfly is not closed all the way or the Throttle shaft bearings are so worn out it sucking air. On old carbs that have been sitting for a long time and or were never adjusted correctly and driven that way for years you will not be able to just lift the hood and adjust a screw here and there and have it running.
Sometimes you have to take it off the car and dissasemble it and clean it. Install new gaskets. If the throttle shaft bearing are worn out you will probably have to replace it. The new carb has to be taken apart and cleaned and inspected before you use it. Don't expect to take it out of the package and bolt it on and run right. Follow everything I show you in this video.
On cold starts, my ghia starts perfectly fine. After it warms up, like 1 minute, the idle drops, and will almost quit,..sometimes it does quit. So, should i get rid of the auto choke?
Up to you. I would try cleaning and adjusting first. You could also raise the idle speed with the air screw and Idle fuel screw. I've noticed a drastic difference in my idle speed just from buying gas from different stations with different octane ratings. When I use the same gas from the same station my idle stay's consistent.
When I drive cross country my idle and MPG is all over the place.
and the ignition is set to 7.5 degrees before top dead center at idle...is there a bigger ball in the case so that plug keeps it there so it can be tapped all the way to the bottom?
No sir. That is the accelerator check valve.
What do you suggest for a fuel line and metal filter between the fuel pump and carb? I am your age and throughly enjoy your videos.
My empi 34 pict 3 bogs going up hill, is that the accelerator pump? What is the best setting for the pump?
Jimmy, I have spent countless hours test driving my cars. They all run different in different conditions. I get an idea and try it to see if it helps. I try to just make one change at a time so I know that was it or change it back and try something else. You won't hurt your engine by adjusting the accelerator pump. Try it and drive it. Be sure to check your dizzy timing with a timing light to make sure it is advancing and return to idle setpoint correctly
Great video, can you explain why my 71 fires on cold starts but turns over 15 times before starting when the car is warm? Thank you
Could be any number of things since you haven't told me weather condition or details about your engine. I'm not a mind reader. I would start with looking at the choke when cold and then just before your warm restart. Also check that your accelerator pump is squirting as long as you have the air cleaner off. Fuel pump pressure. Plugs, wires, distributor cap, coil wire connections.
Maybe do your normal routine with cold start drive it around then come back home and let it sit. Do this to create the slow warm start. When you feel the correct amount of time for it to happen. Don't try to start it but remove the top of the carburetor while it's on the car and see if there is gas in the float bowl. Have someone crank the engine and see if fuel is going in the bowl. (BE Safe) Fuel filter??? Sometimes these things can take a while to figure out. You just have to be patient and be observant. Most shop manual's have a trouble shooting section.
@@TheEZGZ you’re awesome dude. Thanks and sorry being vague.
Im kinda new to the vw world as i just bought a tryke with a vw engine, what im having trouble with ia that when ckoke is fully opens engine dies, have a feeling its something minor that im missing but any suggestions would be appreciated
Welcome to VW land. If the tips in this vid don't work then check deeper. Just basic stuff like float level and clogged jets. Never hurts to get a carb rebuild kit and and get familiar with what's what. Since your tryke is new to you it might be a good idea to check and record everything you can. Compression, Ignition timing, Plugs, fuel pump pressure, blah, blah blah Just get a base line and make one change at a time. If it doesn't run with choke off obviously you have a lean condition due to ???? Find it / Fix it/ Be happy Nobody can magically give the answer with out more details and the more detail you look for..... the solution might show up. Just remember all toys are a Money Pit
what is wrong with the solex 31 pict-4 carburettor if the oil is added? so gas goes into them? replaced the korj kit and the high valve was renewed and installed the thickest piece that was in the korj kit... it would be 1.4-1.5mm now... is the mixture adjusted with a smaller screw so that the machine idles at the highest speed? and what about the swag?
Marvel mystery oil has been used for years to improve top end lubrication without effecting the carb operation. Follow the directions and keep watch on your spark plugs.
The small screw is your fuel the larger one is air
Extremely good video! Is there just one main jet and one idle jet needed to replace? I'm at an altitude of 6800. What jet sizes do you recommend? Hopefully you can help me, thanks!
You should be fine using stock jets in a stock carb with stock engine. Todays Ethanol fuels are a bit thinner because of the alcohol so it's like automatical getting a bigger jet even though the engine will make less power and get less MPG. Why do you feel you need to change your jet size?
@@TheEZGZ I do have the Solex 34 pict-3, people up here that see me drive my dune buggy said I need to get it jetted and it sometimes smokes after startup and it didn't do that in 2000 altitude. Could be bad gas, I just don't want it to run rich and wash the oil off or lean and burn my pistons. What do you recommend? I greatly appteciate you!!