there are other 1967 Beetle how to videos by Jay on another channel www.youtube.com/@jlumnas5721 He is also working up a page on Facebook where more of his articles and videos will be in one place. Jay Salser (Jay Talks VW Beetles) Thank you for watching - I'm glad the video was helpful.
The carb's choke is outside temperature sensitive. So, while the 3 minute rule may work in a heated shop on the bench. The 3 minute rule flies out the window on a cold day, When mounted on your car, I think I remember it's more like 4 minutes. Some time is also required for more tight, or more loose choke elements. And keep an eye out ... as there is both 6 volt and 12 volt chokes. Over 50 years, some have been changed incorrectly. But, the choke needs to be adjusted two or three times per driving season, maybe more. You can tell if your engine stays on the higher steps of the choke-cam too long, and revs too high for too long. As a general rule, you are better off with too much choke than too little. It takes about 15 minutes to get the oil up to operating temperature. The plastic spacers are for seasonal adjustment. Before the automatic choke, chokes were adjusted by pulling a knob on the vw's dash, as everyone knew how to operate a choke. And everyone adjusted the choke manually, according to outside temperatures and engine temperature. This new electric choke is only really semi automatic. As an experienced vw driver should know to adjust their chokes according to what the engine requires, and the need to fine tune the choke element adjuster ... will be different in the cold of spring, the heat of summer, and the cold temperatures of fall once again. If you need more choke = rotate your choke counter clockwise. Less choke = clockwise. About 1/8" increments and see if its enough. This is easy stuff, once you know what the choke does, and for how long, and how much it does it's job.
Just bought my first VW . We bought a 69 Beetle with what I’m told is a single port 1600 . Carburetor is a Solex PICT 30-2. What’s the difference between this and the 30-1. ? Is mine the right one for the bug ? Thanks
Hello, Keith..Thank you for watching this Video. Yes, your 30 Pict-2 Solex Carburetor is correct for a 1968-69 Beetle, Bus and Karmann Ghia. You likely will note a Stamping on the (bottom) flange on the driver's side. This Stamping likely will vary to identify the Carburetor as belonging to one of the above Models of Vintage VWs. With that Stamping in hand, it is possible to know for which Model the Carb originally was intended. That aside, your Carburetor will work on any one of the three Models. The Original Solex German Carbs can be successfully rebuilt--if necessary. A rebuild necessitates a Carburetor Specialist's Attention. Otherwise--If the Carb is in good condition, a person, himself, usually can clean and successfully re-kit it using the Walker Kit which has rubber components which are Ethanol Resistant (I believe that only O'Reilly's sells this kit). You say that your Beetle is said to have a 1600cc Engine. Originally, the Engine would have been an H5xxxxxx, 1500cc Engine. However, if a rebuild is necessary, it is virtually impossible to obtain the 1500cc Rebuild Kits. Thus, most are rebuilt (1967-1969) using the 1600cc Kits. If you can learn the Car's History, perhaps you can discover whether or not the Engine has been rebuilt. A Qualified VW Specialist usually can examine an Engine to be able to tell you whether it has been rebuilt, or not--without disassembling it. Remember: The German Solex Carburetors are far superior to the cheaply manufactured Chinese Carbs on the market presently. Having Original Equipment also increases the intrinsic and monetary value of a Vintage VW. jay
What do you think about the '3-minute-rule'? Is it more or less helpfull to a right adjustment? The 3-minute-adjustment: Put the choke on power (12v) for 3 minutes. After that, pull the throttle. The screw should be at the lowest point when you release the throttle. If not: turn the choke coil to the right setting.
Thank you for responding to my Video! If the "3minute rule" works for you...then be sure to use it. That's likely plenty of time for the Heater to reach its maximum temperature and Spring Release. Most people do not have a "plan" and thus never seem to have their carbs properly adjusted. Keep up the good work! jay
The carb's choke is outside temperature sensitive. So, while the 3 minute rule may work in a heated shop on the bench. The 3 minute rule flies out the window on a cold day, when mounted on your car. I think I remember it's more like 4 minutes. Some time is also required for more tight, or more loose choke elements. And keep an eye out ... as there is both 6 volt and 12 volt chokes. Over 50 years, some have been changed incorrectly. But, the choke needs to be adjusted 2 or three times per driving season. You can tell if your engine stays on the higher steps of the choke-cam too long, and revs too high for too long. As a general rule, you are better off with too much choke than too little. It takes about 15 minutes to get the oil up to operating temperature. The plastic spacers are for seasonal adjustment. Before the automatic choke, chokes were adjusted by pulling a knob on the dash, as everyone knew how to operate a choke. And everyone adjusted the choke manually, according to outside temperatures and engine temperature. This new electric choke is only really semi automatic. As an experienced vw driver should know to adjust their chokes according to what the engine requires, and the need to fine tune the choke element adjuster ... Will be different in the cold of spring, the heat of summer, and the cold temperatures of fall once again. If you need more choke = rotate your choke counter clockwise. Less choke = clockwise. About 1/8" and see if its enough.
@@thestove2407 thanks for the extra information. Indeed was the engine running to long at higher rpm in my case. The 3minute rule helped, but I now realise it depends on ambient temperature of the coil.
The choke has nothing to do with out side temp. It has a coil that when it gets hot with electricity from the coil it gets loose and lets the plat move. That is what the electric choke does. Put it on a bench and put power to the choke and it will move. It takes about 3 to 5 minutes to fully open.
What a great video!
I have been looking for this video for 2 months. 🎉🎉🎉
there are other 1967 Beetle how to videos by Jay on another channel
www.youtube.com/@jlumnas5721
He is also working up a page on Facebook where more of his articles and videos will be in one place. Jay Salser (Jay Talks VW Beetles)
Thank you for watching - I'm glad the video was helpful.
Thank you for the video - most helpful!
Thank you for the information, appreciate your time making the video.
Your comment is much appreciated!
Excellent ! Merci
The carb's choke is outside temperature sensitive. So, while the 3 minute rule may work in a heated shop on the bench. The 3 minute rule flies out the window on a cold day, When mounted on your car, I think I remember it's more like 4 minutes. Some time is also required for more tight, or more loose choke elements. And keep an eye out ... as there is both 6 volt and 12 volt chokes. Over 50 years, some have been changed incorrectly. But, the choke needs to be adjusted two or three times per driving season, maybe more. You can tell if your engine stays on the higher steps of the choke-cam too long, and revs too high for too long. As a general rule, you are better off with too much choke than too little. It takes about 15 minutes to get the oil up to operating temperature. The plastic spacers are for seasonal adjustment. Before the automatic choke, chokes were adjusted by pulling a knob on the vw's dash, as everyone knew how to operate a choke. And everyone adjusted the choke manually, according to outside temperatures and engine temperature. This new electric choke is only really semi automatic. As an experienced vw driver should know to adjust their chokes according to what the engine requires, and the need to fine tune the choke element adjuster ... will be different in the cold of spring, the heat of summer, and the cold temperatures of fall once again. If you need more choke = rotate your choke counter clockwise. Less choke = clockwise. About 1/8" increments and see if its enough.
This is easy stuff, once you know what the choke does, and for how long, and how much it does it's job.
Just bought my first VW . We bought a 69 Beetle with what I’m told is a single port 1600 . Carburetor is a Solex PICT 30-2. What’s the difference between this and the 30-1. ? Is mine the right one for the bug ? Thanks
Hello, Keith..Thank you for watching this Video. Yes, your 30 Pict-2 Solex Carburetor is correct for a 1968-69 Beetle, Bus and Karmann Ghia. You likely will note a Stamping on the (bottom) flange on the driver's side. This Stamping likely will vary to identify the Carburetor as belonging to one of the above Models of Vintage VWs. With that Stamping in hand, it is possible to know for which Model the Carb originally was intended. That aside, your Carburetor will work on any one of the three Models. The Original Solex German Carbs can be successfully rebuilt--if necessary. A rebuild necessitates a Carburetor Specialist's Attention. Otherwise--If the Carb is in good condition, a person, himself, usually can clean and successfully re-kit it using the Walker Kit which has rubber components which are Ethanol Resistant (I believe that only O'Reilly's sells this kit). You say that your Beetle is said to have a 1600cc Engine. Originally, the Engine would have been an H5xxxxxx, 1500cc Engine. However, if a rebuild is necessary, it is virtually impossible to obtain the 1500cc Rebuild Kits. Thus, most are rebuilt (1967-1969) using the 1600cc Kits. If you can learn the Car's History, perhaps you can discover whether or not the Engine has been rebuilt. A Qualified VW Specialist usually can examine an Engine to be able to tell you whether it has been rebuilt, or not--without disassembling it. Remember: The German Solex Carburetors are far superior to the cheaply manufactured Chinese Carbs on the market presently. Having Original Equipment also increases the intrinsic and monetary value of a Vintage VW. jay
@@j.k.salser499Can I send my carburetor for you yo rebuild ? $$
@@j.k.salser499 Could I put a 30-31 on my single port motor ?
What do you think about the '3-minute-rule'? Is it more or less helpfull to a right adjustment?
The 3-minute-adjustment:
Put the choke on power (12v) for 3 minutes.
After that, pull the throttle.
The screw should be at the lowest point when you release the throttle.
If not: turn the choke coil to the right setting.
Thank you for responding to my Video! If the "3minute rule" works for you...then be sure to use it. That's likely plenty of time for the Heater to reach its maximum temperature and Spring Release. Most people do not have a "plan" and thus never seem to have their carbs properly adjusted. Keep up the good work! jay
The carb's choke is outside temperature sensitive.
So, while the 3 minute rule may work in a heated shop on the bench. The 3 minute rule flies out the window on a cold day, when mounted on your car.
I think I remember it's more like 4 minutes. Some time is also required for more tight, or more loose choke elements.
And keep an eye out ... as there is both 6 volt and 12 volt chokes. Over 50 years, some have been changed incorrectly.
But, the choke needs to be adjusted 2 or three times per driving season.
You can tell if your engine stays on the higher steps of the choke-cam too long, and revs too high for too long. As a general rule, you are better off with too much choke than too little. It takes about 15 minutes to get the oil up to operating temperature.
The plastic spacers are for seasonal adjustment.
Before the automatic choke, chokes were adjusted by pulling a knob on the dash, as everyone knew how to operate a choke. And everyone adjusted the choke manually, according to outside temperatures and engine temperature.
This new electric choke is only really semi automatic. As an experienced vw driver should know to adjust their chokes according to what the engine requires, and the need to fine tune the choke element adjuster ... Will be different in the cold of spring, the heat of summer, and the cold temperatures of fall once again. If you need more choke = rotate your choke counter clockwise. Less choke = clockwise.
About 1/8" and see if its enough.
@@thestove2407 thanks for the extra information. Indeed was the engine running to long at higher rpm in my case. The 3minute rule helped, but I now realise it depends on ambient temperature of the coil.
The choke has nothing to do with out side temp. It has a coil that when it gets hot with electricity from the coil it gets loose and lets the plat move. That is what the electric choke does. Put it on a bench and put power to the choke and it will move. It takes about 3 to 5 minutes to fully open.
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