Started scaling up models made for epic40k to 28/32mm because of you, and I have to say, it has worked great. They are simple enough my ender-3 pro can print them without issue, but are detailed enough that they still look good after painting
idk why but this video was exactly what i need to really push myself to buckle into my fdm printing knowing that they can for a fact come out this good!!! and for some reason kicks in my spite and makes me want to get past that in the next month (On 2 months so far learning to fdm print mini's)
Love to see people trying to push FDM prints - especially with the scaled 6mm KMFP prints. Personal experience has found that snug supports in Prusaslicer are far better than Cura. Their new tree supports need some tweaking though. I did manage to print a Forest Dragon despoiler mage in 10mm on my FDM printer using Sunlu Meta. It came out far better than I expected.
Interesting video thanks. Ironically from what you say, I have found eSun PLA+ an absolute game-changer for my minis and if you have the temperatures etc set right (I print at 205c with a 0.2mm nozzle at 0.075mm layer height) on a Bambu Labs P1P) then you should not have any major stringing. Not only is the detail fantastic, but the strength of the minis is also incredible and they have passed multiple drop tests without shattering, unlike regular PLA which was in comparison far more fragile and broke easily. I suggest you give it another try! :)
Your issue with the layer shifting and printer head misaligned is due to the filament being tangled on the spool. They wind it sloppy at the factory and you pay the price. Best to rewind all filament onto a fresh spool and use a sponge cartridge to clean your filament (easy print) to get the dust and rat feces off it from staying in some crappy warehouse for months. Ask me how I know. Nice prints.
@@jamesreid6778 Your prints look great! Would it be possible for you to share a downloadable Cura profile? I am currently learning to 3D model warhammer 40k figures using virtual reality and printing my models on an Anycubic Kobra Go fdm printer. Always interested in optimizing the settings and process to achieve higher quality prints as I am new to 3D printing.
@Trevor Burns look up Tomb of 3d printed horrors channel he has in depth tutorials and his website has downloable (free make an account)cura profile zip for 5.0 but has screenshots of settings you can use to get an idea of settings been learning myself been a good resource I'm gonna invest in a 0.1mm nozzle too takes longer prints but higher detail hope this helps
The main reason is speed. It's waaay faster. You dont see a reduction in quality for big figures like vehicles, but even infantry isn't that bad..at least for these guys.
@jamesreid6778 Thanks for your reply - and thanks for doing videos about FDM figurine printing. How long would one typical infantry figure take to print with 0.6mm Vs 0.2mm? I saw another video where they were comparing figurines printed with 0.4 Vs 0.2 nozzles and there was a quality difference in the fine details. For me, time printing is less of a concern compared to the final result - unless it's a really long print and surface quality is not an issue. I'm tinkering with an older machine and working up to printing some WW2 armour. So I'd love to see some videos focusing on printing armoured units, especially in regard to the details but also looking at vertical and sloped surfaces and what settings might be best.
I've just given up. My Creality CR10s pro just fails constantly. I cannot get Cura to print anything like a miniature. I have spent days adjusting settings, changing nozzles, and changing filaments. I am so demoralized by wasting my time on this crap.
the printer tech just is not there yet the models remind me of the first models gw started with but nothing close to what they have now sorry if all you guys are getting price out sometimes, I feel that way to
It really isn't about money. I don't want to come off as arrogant or anything so bear with me. I'm actually really well off, I'm lucky to have a good paying job and if I wanted to I could easily spend £500 or so each month on various hobby related endeavors.. the key word there being "wanted". First, 3d printing is just a new cool hobby for me It's nice to learn a new skill and work from the ground up, testing the limits on what I can achieve. Second, Games Workshop models are just to busy for me, and for a lot of other people. My painting skills just aren't good enough to warrant all the detail they seems to want to pack into them. That's why I like these specific STL files, their basic. Third, might be preaching to the wrong crowd here idk, but I just don't want to support Games Workshop. Sure they have better miniatures, they have a 30 year head start and injection molding is a whole other ballpark, but they have made an absolute mess of their game. If they can prove to me that their game is worth playing I'd maybe buy their miniatures. Since I don't play their games I don't feel inclined to buy their miniatures. I don't need them for One Page Rules, which as I'm writing this now, appears to be "the better game". All subjective of course.
Its nice what you achieved with FDM. But why? As good as this is its waaaaay behind every cheap entrylevel resin printer. Beside of the handling with toxic resin i cant come up with any reason why someone would do minature printing with a fdm printer.
Because my house can't have a resin printer in it. It's a living situation that isn't going to change for several more years. It's also because I like the challenge. There's nothing stopping me from buying any other models...it's not a question of price, I do well enough, but what's available already is just not drawing me in. I really really like the aesthetic of the KMFP Orbital Knights.
www.myminifactory.com/users/KMFP_Designs I'm not selling or promoting (as such) but i do certainly recommend them for people first time trying to FDM print minis as their very forgiving. No video yet but im hoping to do it this weekend.
How much did you scale them up? I love KMPF models and have a ton that I have resin printed in the small format, but I would like to try some scaled up with my FDM printer. Thanks. @@jamesreid6778
![ILLSLICK - KILLSHOT REMIX [FULL VERSION]](http://i.ytimg.com/vi/RIK8RrqIAzE/mqdefault.jpg)
Started scaling up models made for epic40k to 28/32mm because of you, and I have to say, it has worked great. They are simple enough my ender-3 pro can print them without issue, but are detailed enough that they still look good after painting
idk why but this video was exactly what i need to really push myself to buckle into my fdm printing knowing that they can for a fact come out this good!!! and for some reason kicks in my spite and makes me want to get past that in the next month (On 2 months so far learning to fdm print mini's)
Love to see people trying to push FDM prints - especially with the scaled 6mm KMFP prints.
Personal experience has found that snug supports in Prusaslicer are far better than Cura. Their new tree supports need some tweaking though.
I did manage to print a Forest Dragon despoiler mage in 10mm on my FDM printer using Sunlu Meta. It came out far better than I expected.
Interesting video thanks. Ironically from what you say, I have found eSun PLA+ an absolute game-changer for my minis and if you have the temperatures etc set right (I print at 205c with a 0.2mm nozzle at 0.075mm layer height) on a Bambu Labs P1P) then you should not have any major stringing. Not only is the detail fantastic, but the strength of the minis is also incredible and they have passed multiple drop tests without shattering, unlike regular PLA which was in comparison far more fragile and broke easily. I suggest you give it another try! :)
I am digging using my FDM printer and I really like those models. I think I will now dig into the rest of your videos. :O)
super neat ive been printing since 2018 and just got a bambulabs p1p. it has revitalized my love of fdm printing
Your issue with the layer shifting and printer head misaligned is due to the filament being tangled on the spool. They wind it sloppy at the factory and you pay the price. Best to rewind all filament onto a fresh spool and use a sponge cartridge to clean your filament (easy print) to get the dust and rat feces off it from staying in some crappy warehouse for months. Ask me how I know. Nice prints.
How do you know?
Fantastic work on your prints love the use of the flat magnets like en subbed👍
Do you use Cura? If so I'd really like a video just explaining your settings and your thought process when printing minis. Thanks
It is Cura. A more in depth video will be arriving on the channel soon, once I've tested out the new Christmas release.
@@jamesreid6778 I discovered the christmas release a week or so ago and the new supports are phenomenal!
@@jamesreid6778 Your prints look great! Would it be possible for you to share a downloadable Cura profile? I am currently learning to 3D model warhammer 40k figures using virtual reality and printing my models on an Anycubic Kobra Go fdm printer. Always interested in optimizing the settings and process to achieve higher quality prints as I am new to 3D printing.
@Trevor Burns look up Tomb of 3d printed horrors channel he has in depth tutorials and his website has downloable (free make an account)cura profile zip for 5.0 but has screenshots of settings you can use to get an idea of settings been learning myself been a good resource I'm gonna invest in a 0.1mm nozzle too takes longer prints but higher detail hope this helps
Very nice! Mine clogged up overnight.
Why would you print figurines with a 0.6 nozzle? I would have thought that a fine nozzle like a 0.2 would be better to better capture the details?
The main reason is speed. It's waaay faster. You dont see a reduction in quality for big figures like vehicles, but even infantry isn't that bad..at least for these guys.
@jamesreid6778 Thanks for your reply - and thanks for doing videos about FDM figurine printing.
How long would one typical infantry figure take to print with 0.6mm Vs 0.2mm? I saw another video where they were comparing figurines printed with 0.4 Vs 0.2 nozzles and there was a quality difference in the fine details. For me, time printing is less of a concern compared to the final result - unless it's a really long print and surface quality is not an issue.
I'm tinkering with an older machine and working up to printing some WW2 armour. So I'd love to see some videos focusing on printing armoured units, especially in regard to the details but also looking at vertical and sloped surfaces and what settings might be best.
@@TonyGrant.
1 model at 28mm
0.2 2.38
0.4 1:50
0.6 1:28
5 models at 28mm
0.2 12:8
0.4 8.10
0.6 6:39
1.0 mm height & 1.2mm walls
Interesting video 👍
But OMG, you need a new mike. I had to tripple the volume to hear you talking ;)
I've just given up. My Creality CR10s pro just fails constantly. I cannot get Cura to print anything like a miniature. I have spent days adjusting settings, changing nozzles, and changing filaments. I am so demoralized by wasting my time on this crap.
the printer tech just is not there yet the models remind me of the first models gw started with but nothing close to what they have now sorry if all you guys are getting price out sometimes, I feel that way to
It really isn't about money. I don't want to come off as arrogant or anything so bear with me. I'm actually really well off, I'm lucky to have a good paying job and if I wanted to I could easily spend £500 or so each month on various hobby related endeavors.. the key word there being "wanted".
First, 3d printing is just a new cool hobby for me It's nice to learn a new skill and work from the ground up, testing the limits on what I can achieve.
Second, Games Workshop models are just to busy for me, and for a lot of other people. My painting skills just aren't good enough to warrant all the detail they seems to want to pack into them. That's why I like these specific STL files, their basic.
Third, might be preaching to the wrong crowd here idk, but I just don't want to support Games Workshop. Sure they have better miniatures, they have a 30 year head start and injection molding is a whole other ballpark, but they have made an absolute mess of their game.
If they can prove to me that their game is worth playing I'd maybe buy their miniatures. Since I don't play their games I don't feel inclined to buy their miniatures. I don't need them for One Page Rules, which as I'm writing this now, appears to be "the better game". All subjective of course.
Can I ask where you got those flat magnets?
15mm dia x 0.5mm thick N42 Neodymium Magnet - from amazon. Usually a pack of 10 for around £7-8
they say u cant get detail with fdm
Its nice what you achieved with FDM. But why? As good as this is its waaaaay behind every cheap entrylevel resin printer. Beside of the handling with toxic resin i cant come up with any reason why someone would do minature printing with a fdm printer.
Because my house can't have a resin printer in it. It's a living situation that isn't going to change for several more years. It's also because I like the challenge. There's nothing stopping me from buying any other models...it's not a question of price, I do well enough, but what's available already is just not drawing me in. I really really like the aesthetic of the KMFP Orbital Knights.
Link to models? Are you selling diff types? Or promoting? Did ya upad settings vid yet? Lol
www.myminifactory.com/users/KMFP_Designs I'm not selling or promoting (as such) but i do certainly recommend them for people first time trying to FDM print minis as their very forgiving. No video yet but im hoping to do it this weekend.
How much did you scale them up? I love KMPF models and have a ton that I have resin printed in the small format, but I would like to try some scaled up with my FDM printer. Thanks. @@jamesreid6778
@@bryanduke1 350% for 28mm and 400% for 32mm