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New to 3D printing, have had my X1C for only 2 weeks and I can feel the obsession pulling me in. Love designing and fixing things. Thanks for these great videos...
This is right up my alley. As the family Mr. Fixit I have already used my printer to print out parts to help repair a few items. I would love to learn to use a 3d scanner and CAD. It would be a real game changer to add toy tool kit.
Learn CAD first it opens up more doors and is a more transferable skill. I'll be honest -watch- watching that video turned me more off 3D scanning than onto it.
Hey Jonathan. Loved the video. I havent tried using scanners yet but I really want to for a few projects. So, naturally this caught my eye. I did want to pop in and mention that adding any weight to the wheel could make that wheel unbalanced at higher speeds. Actually, I think that design of it one piece is probably the best shot at keeping balance on the wheel when driving above parking lot speeds. Since a little bit of weight at the rim can make it “shake” at higher speeds. Not trying to discount the project, just throwing out a word of caution. :) Great work on all these projects.
First of all, thank you for your channel. I am new to 3D printing and you channel helps me a lot. Secondly it is nice to see how you do all the things such as slicing, midelling and printing. Thank you
We need more information about said relationship.... Are you wanting something more rigid like PLA, or is perhaps flexibility (TPU) a priority? ABS is a good candidate to weather the "storms". Nozzle size, layer heights, and slicer settings could also impact how well separate entities fit together.
Getting to prototypes is useful to sort out different issues, mostly due to insecurities or variabilities. Getting to a prototype quickly is especially useful for fitting issues early on, but not always needed. But, if you’re designing in a vacuum and you know what you’re doing you can get quite far before prototyping. On a current highly complex project I sorted out most issues simply by slicing my model (a lot!!!) to sort out any remaining issues printing a micro delta wing in vase mode. PETG proto is coming out pretty good, few minor fixes needed, next up LW-PLA. Just one prototype 😊
to be fair you can build parametricly with blender too. you just hit moments where it's easier to edit the mesh directly and then you can't go back from that point on. but you could make every single one of your designs with splines extrudes and bools and never do things in the "sculpting" mode. I haven't watched any tutorials so I don't know if people teach this kind of stuff, because it's not very useful to people making scenes and digital art. It is much more annoying to define the splines on the planes compared to standard CAD because you can't automatically enter distances from the reference you clic or automatically do radiuses and arcs and all that stuff. but after that one step it's just as easy. and you could just do the path/splines in another software, export them as adobe illustrator format and use them. it all depends on what part of the workflow causes a significant block for each person.
For the Tesla wheels, now that you have the model, you could really lean into the customisation benefits of 3D printing - add an image / pattern / texture / kids names / whatever :) It doesn't matter what colour filament you use, just install them and wait a couple of months until the dirt on the wheels matches the dirt on the covers :)
I would go with black. You are printing covers that will get scratched. The scratches will be visible more on the white than on the black. So you wouldn't have to replace them as often.
If you're worried about finishing the parts to match the wheels, then I'd definitely go with black because you'd absolutely have to do some good finishing if it's white. Such a stark contrast will draw attention and everyone will be looking at it. Black would probably just go unnoticed.
I am a fan of magnets and think they could be printed embedded into removable things, maybe even such as potentially for wheel rim covers and other custom vehicle exterior and interior mods that can be changed up or easily worked with, such as will be the goal with changing tires? Another option would be maybe to print the plastic with press tabs that clip around some of the spoke segments of the wheel rims, maybe even add some cut up pieces of old bicycle innertubes glued as a surface protector to avoid scuffs of solid surfaces and dirt ingress from mileage. Velcro strips from the dollar store though, if not the lego, deserves a honorary mention for adaptative hotswappable solutions too. A Lego dashboard cover would be cool..
Thanks for the great video. I am fairly new to 3D printing and also looking into 3D scanning. Your video is very helpful to see the uses and limitations of a 3D scanner. Also, I prefer the look of the white wheel covers. Thanks again.
If you are happy to pay a bit for Blender addons, you can model pretty much anything non destructively nowadays. Can even display all your dimensions in the viewports realtime.
Considering your skillset and todays world. I think it would be well worth your time thoroughly researching and even practicing the most suitable and rapid 3d model production pipeline for prototyping your designs. The great thing about designing models for 3d printing is not having to worry as much about your models topology. A designer that has mastered modelling in Blender or similar 3d modelling software instead of cad based software, will have greater control over the shape and appearance of their 3d prints etc.
I think the main thing with prototyping is trying to reduce the size of the model to be as small as possible while still giving the context for whatever you're trying to fit together (as well as getting past the fact that it's inevitable to have some waste filament, and prototyping is actually a great way to mitigate that)
Hmmm not sure if they need more help but I could connect you to Ron! As for a meetup, heck yeah, I’d love to host one.. but where? My studio is too small lol
As a fellow Israeli 3d printing enthusiast and a fan, a meetup would be really cool :) Perhaps you could host it at a local park where fans share stories and projects and see where it goes from there
Jonathan, I understand the concept behind parametric models and the flexibility they provide for customizing models. What I struggle with is how to change the parameters to get what i need. Any chance I could convince you to do a video on how you adjusted the parameters in the box model you used to make the case for the scanner?
One thing I have done when designing to a deadline, and I needed to save time (rather than filament), was to cut out the portion of the model that needed to be refined, and printing just the small piece rather than the whole model. Once I had that right, then I would print the whole thing.
Cool Video! I sometimes like to combine Fusion and Blender. Also makeing the fitting parts compliant (aka selectively flexible) you will have and easier time with fittings and tolerances 👍
For the wheel covers, I would use hard TPU (relatively common 98A, 72D, ...) with a high infill... it is stiff enough an basically indestructible for this purpose... And these hard TPUs are as easy to print as PLA.
i love these videos, spark my creativity to make fixes for around the house! Gotta love 3D printing and the skills that come with it! thank you for the awesome video!!
I would love to see a video on a more in depth way of using the miraco and onshape for designing/printing things. I'm with a Police Dept Bomb Squad and we are purchasing the Miraco to do more in depth designs and fixes for our robots, drones, etc. Thanks in advance and appreciate the help.
Do your wheels black. It's not as visible if scratch (you'll be breaking and replacing a lot of them in that parking garage anyways) just make sure you have a lot of the same filaments.
Blender Pro tip: if you set the undo steps to 256 you CAN go back 256 steps in your workflow and start anew. Find it in preferences/system/memory & limits/undo steps (as a side note, you don’t have to press command+Z 256 times, there’s a undo selector menu so you can skip right to the point in your workflow you wanted)
I'd prefer the color white, adds more character. Tho you have plastic tire covers, cars are 75% plastic anyways. However choose whatever color you want. Thankfully snap on plastic isn't permanent and reprinting isn't impossible if you change your mind.
On your wheels do one side black and the other side white and drive it for a while to get comments and to see which you like the best. Maybe even red? PETG does have more flexibility and will return back to the original shape better when flexed. Which should allow them to form better to the wheel when snapped on, just my opinion. Another great video, thanks.
Black covers makes most sense. Firstly these are fdm prints so unless you've gone to the effort of sanding them all they're are dirt magnets; they'll never stay white. Secondly, you are literally printing these to get scuffed, black will show the marks less. Two other observations though, if your parking garage is like the ones we have in the UK, the kerbs will be painted yellow so you might want to match the yellow paint you'll no doubt be collecting 😂. Also, these are sacrificial parts, print them in a different colour next time. Finally, what about one of those funky carbon fibre filaments, get your own back on those kerbs. Keep up the good work, great to see you putting your skills to great use in the community
Thank you for your lessons and for understandable English in it. I think it would be much easier to cover your ugly holes by simple round plates with just cylinders going from the back side of the plates. You should put pieces of rubber hose on the nuts inside the holes. And you should make the cylinder's internal diameter equal to the external diameter of the rubbered nuts. I think this thing is gonna hold on quite tight. And I think you won't spend more then half an hour to measure all the stuff.
Haha, I remember saying in the kickstarter livestream suggesting someone upload a STL file of the MIRACO, and there it is like it was meant to be. Useful for people to create adaptations with such as portable cases that will protect it, though I did get what they call the small solid casing and what they refer to as a transit bag with a shoulder strap, but if you want, it seems to fit well in alot of cases you might have around from old fossil electronics, such as those old various camcorder bags for 50 cents at yard sales or the 2nd hand stores even is something to consider. I left the screen protector on the MIRACO without peeling it away, just cut away the pull tab carefully and its still holding up ok but its not as durable as the proper cellphone screen protectors being not as thin as the thing they shipped it with meant to be removed. Can probably edit or find a tablet screen protector it, good idea for a MIRACO video to make showing a few that will fit it best for affordability and durability. Mine shipped with a bonus grey rubberized gripcasing that fits the MIRACO exactly, and that is also something I mentioned they do during the kickstarter, and there it is like it was meant to be. It might only have been for backers of the kickstarter as a bonus thankyou though, I am not sure about the gripcases availability, but its perfect for when moving around with a mobile device of its nature, I mentioned about how people would be bumping into things in the real world use scenarios, it might even save it from a fall. I added a magnetic haptic quick release cable connector meant for cellphones or laptops to it and you wont have to put any mileage onto the USB C device socket and it makes it really easy to one handed attach or remove to go rogue nomad mode without tripping over wires. Wireless, you gotta like it! I have it parked on a larger camera tripod inherited from my dad who was really into photography to the point of having a darkroom setup with enlargers for poster size photowork as a hobby. Maybe I bought the MIRACO for him, in his honor as a type of family tradition in the field of optics? When I pressed BUY NOW, I did think of him and he would've bought it for it's 45megapixel 3d potentials we work with today. Keep yourself and the rock alive as you roll out those block rockn' beats and innovations, dude, man, brotherrr!! Subscribed.
I am the same with making parts that I could generally just buy. But in your case, and definitely in mine, I feel like it's far more time consuming and often times a much worse product than is commercially available.
Excellent video! I'm just starting a custom 3D printing business. I've settled on the printer - a RatRig V-Core 4 500 Hybrid, IDEX on the horizon - but I want a good, dimensionally accurate 3D scanner as well. I've looked at the Einstar, but don't want the umbilical and don't have a laptop that will handle it. I've looked at a few other possibilities, but am leaning strongly toward the Miraco. I'd love to see more content similar to what you've presented in this video.
@@thenextlayer Sorry this is so long; my enthusiasm gives me motor-mouth! It is indeed a monster! While I don't *need* that size, I'm happy to have it. One of my friends at church wants me to print a replacement for a section of the dashboard for his 1970-ish Barracuda, which would have been possible with a 400. I think I'll have a lot of business from the classic car & muscle car clubs; it's a market I hadn't considered when I placed the order. I'm coming from a rather disappointing 3 years with an Ender 3 V2 - not that it's a bad printer, but it wasn't up to the kind of printing I'd anticipated doing when I ordered it. I haven't printed much lately, and wanted to buy a printer that would print any filament (within reason) accurately; I also wanted a kit as I enjoy building things, and there's no better way to understand a machine than assembling it yourself. I looked at a number of printers and almost pulled the trigger on a Voron 2.4 when someone suggested I look at the new RatRig V-Core 4, and I'm glad I did. I ended up ordering the 500 because it was only a couple hundred dollars more than the 400 I'd intended to go with. I ordered the hybrid kinematics kit and will add IDEX when the upgrade is available. Why RatRig? Support on Discord is amazing, and many of the folks have printing businesses. RatRig printers use 3030 extrusions and thus have a stiffer frame, so I should be able to print faster. The hybrid kinematics package doubles acceleration, but more importantly it helps with print quality. The build is simpler than Voron's, and the VC4 is easier to square than the VC3. They provide their own OS (RatOS) that includes everything you need to run, configure and tune the printer. RatOS is a Pi image that includes Klipper, Mainsail, Moonraker and Klipper Screen as well as a configurator that eliminates editing config files as well as tuning aids including a real-time resonance display so you can watch the curves while you're tuning the machine. And now, thanks in part to you, I've got a Revopoint Miraco on order, so I've got a new technology to look forward to mastering. I am inspired by your work with the organization that offers free 'rentals' of home-use medical devices. This resonates as I have 3 friends at church that have all managed to break their ankles in the last few months (and we're a small church). I was talking to our parish administrator today and mentioned what you are doing. He knew of a local organization that does the same thing, so once I'm proficient at printing technical filaments I'll contact them to see if I can help. I know God smiles on you for your good works!
I've found that I rely on my dial calipers more than my digital calipers. Digital calipers are convenient but seems to drain the battery rapidly. I don't have to worry about batteries with my dial calipers.
Loved the video. Please can I have the stl for the tesla wheels. We have destroyed ours in similar circumstances. Literally got stuck down a tiny high kerbed street in Spain due to the crappy turning circle.
Awesome video Jonathan. Really enjoyed this one! Not super impressed by the Miraco tbh. Revopoint just isn’t there yet on the software front. Once you use an Einscan scanner you’ll realize how much better they are and how important it is to have good software in addition to good hardware. You should have been able to capture most of the geometry of that wheelchair part with the scan and just need to boolean out the inner geometry. The fact that you had to manually model it is disappointing but unsurprising based on my experience with Revopoint scanners.
Thankyou your chanel is very informative. I haven't even gotten a 3d printer yet. Need to fix some electric fence insulators that keep getting broken, maybe 3d printing them is a possibility?
Its a room made do defend and shelter the family in situation of bombing threat. Made from solid thick concrete, its name is MAMAD - Apartment protected space. The holes are for filtering equipment and special for get hoses and other things to get trough the thick walls. This room is a government require to build a new house or apartment building in Israel. Nowadays especially when Hamas and other threats are lunching rockets on Israeli citizens and big cities.. BTW there are even concrete shelters in the streets for the same reason. Hope I could help you understand! Have a nice weekend!
Interestingly just came across this after buying a model y with 20 inch wheels that are destroyed from the previous owner parking by brail. I found 3d models online of the 19 and 21 inch wheels, but i cannot for the life of me find a model for my wheels. I've been spending hours and hours trying to rework the 3d scan and the curves are just too much for my cad skills. I wish i could justify that 3d scanner, my scans are off a phone app and i have no ability for easy post processing
I didn't buy a 3d printer to make rabbits, boats, or chotchkis. I bought it to learn how to do EXACTLY THIS, so thank you, this is 'da shiznit,' as the hip kids say.
Thanks for making this video and recommending these rules. SUUUUPER helpful. And i appreciate the recommendation of the 3D scanner. But I was curious if you tried using the latest iPhone to scan 3D objects. Would that get you close to a usable reference?
Damn that’s a good idea why didn’t I think of that lol. I tried to mess with the lid a bit but it doesn’t fold all the way back and I decided not to reinvent both wheels lol. Maybe next time
Hi there , new subscriber . I wanted to know whether the lidar on the iPhones are any good for medium sized parts (10cmX5cm) . I assumed photogrammetry is more accurate, but I’m not sure.
All you need is a scanner that costs more than your printer! I get it, it's a sponsor, and there are practical applications for having a scanner that is (relatively) affordable, but based on the title it was a bit disappointing to see the whole video was just a long sponsor segment. Would have liked to see some other techniques. I've been happy with most of your videos though so I'll see you next time. Keep it up!
Bingo. Sponsors paid for this video, without them, I wouldn’t have been able to do a video about just fixing stuff for fun… and I did it in such a way that half the projects did not require a scanner, and half took advantage of it. But you can get similar results with photogrammetry if needed. Scanners are getting better, and we are getting to the point where it makes sense even for hobbyists to have one, when prices come down…
I have the revopoint mini2 3d scanner i am having a huge difficult time 3d scanning 1980's Hordak/Clawful/Mekaneck toy body armor. I can get some nice scans on the front image BUT not the inner side its very convex/concave its like the scanner cant find a surface to scan using a lightbox or using a powerful external light source donts help . i am scanning 1 peice of armor to be used like a original 2peices that clip togather. and if you scan it as in one scan 1 piece as soon as you try to scan the side and the inner the scan looses tracking and its now f@cked lol, and yes even if you start at a new scan with the mini2 pointing in the inside it still cant find a surface
@@thenextlayer Awesome! Can't wait! I vote for white. Not because it looks like the posche but because it's simpler than trying to match paint. I would rather steer into being unique than the trials of matching paint. It doesn't matter if someone will notice any defects. I would rather not add any more damage to my vehicle while having the pride of knowing you made something for yourself. Plus if anyone asks about it than you can promote yourself, channel, and business. That's just my two cents.
What is with those holes/plates in the walls anyways? I tried googling, but without knowing the nomenclature, I couldn't find why they exist in the first place.
Having learned mold making, wood carving, wax model/lost wax and many other old methods of reproduction in art school I fail to see how fiddling with buttons and pictures for the same amount or more hours than it would take me is of any benefit. I already fix or make just about everything with molds, plastic welding, carving etc. and I get faster every time I do it. I can appreciate you trying to attract new enthusiasts to a new industry but observing the complexity as opposed to results this all seems like a very long walk to get to a place that literally vanishes if the electricity fails. Good luck with all of that.
The problem with 3d scanners is, that there is no good software to use the data. Do any one know a software which can transform the mesh into a good solid?
And here I thought maybe I could fix my friends iireplaceable Darth Vader figure with a piece of the helmet broke. But $1,299 for the scanner, that's too much. Freaking awesome tech though, hopefully it continues to come down in price.
THANK YOU for watching.
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Sent you a massage from your webpage dude, please read it 🥳
New to 3D printing, have had my X1C for only 2 weeks and I can feel the obsession pulling me in. Love designing and fixing things. Thanks for these great videos...
This is right up my alley. As the family Mr. Fixit I have already used my printer to print out parts to help repair a few items. I would love to learn to use a 3d scanner and CAD. It would be a real game changer to add toy tool kit.
Learn CAD first it opens up more doors and is a more transferable skill. I'll be honest -watch- watching that video turned me more off 3D scanning than onto it.
Hey Jonathan. Loved the video. I havent tried using scanners yet but I really want to for a few projects. So, naturally this caught my eye. I did want to pop in and mention that adding any weight to the wheel could make that wheel unbalanced at higher speeds. Actually, I think that design of it one piece is probably the best shot at keeping balance on the wheel when driving above parking lot speeds. Since a little bit of weight at the rim can make it “shake” at higher speeds. Not trying to discount the project, just throwing out a word of caution. :) Great work on all these projects.
Yesterday I finished a wood counter with table-top resin. I used a piece of that packing material as a spreader. It worked great.
Make the wheel covers orange, so it matches with you logo (white car, black wheels and orange wheel covers). Prusa orange would look really nice.
First of all, thank you for your channel. I am new to 3D printing and you channel helps me a lot. Secondly it is nice to see how you do all the things such as slicing, midelling and printing.
Thank you
Props to you for helping the community. What goes around comes around.
Can you fix my parent’s divorce with 3D printing ?
LOL!
Ahhhhh beat me too it
@@Kenword69420 not before me, I was the first to laugh! 😏 Hah!
There's a chance, if both of them really like 3d printing, the spark might relight.
We need more information about said relationship....
Are you wanting something more rigid like PLA, or is perhaps flexibility (TPU) a priority? ABS is a good candidate to weather the "storms".
Nozzle size, layer heights, and slicer settings could also impact how well separate entities fit together.
תותח!! יש לך תוכן איכותי, לומד ממך המון
Getting to prototypes is useful to sort out different issues, mostly due to insecurities or variabilities. Getting to a prototype quickly is especially useful for fitting issues early on, but not always needed.
But, if you’re designing in a vacuum and you know what you’re doing you can get quite far before prototyping.
On a current highly complex project I sorted out most issues simply by slicing my model (a lot!!!) to sort out any remaining issues printing a micro delta wing in vase mode.
PETG proto is coming out pretty good, few minor fixes needed, next up LW-PLA. Just one prototype 😊
Have you thought about making the stand part of the stream deck container? That way you would have the stand wherever you bring it!
to be fair you can build parametricly with blender too. you just hit moments where it's easier to edit the mesh directly and then you can't go back from that point on.
but you could make every single one of your designs with splines extrudes and bools and never do things in the "sculpting" mode. I haven't watched any tutorials so I don't know if people teach this kind of stuff, because it's not very useful to people making scenes and digital art.
It is much more annoying to define the splines on the planes compared to standard CAD because you can't automatically enter distances from the reference you clic or automatically do radiuses and arcs and all that stuff. but after that one step it's just as easy. and you could just do the path/splines in another software, export them as adobe illustrator format and use them.
it all depends on what part of the workflow causes a significant block for each person.
For the Tesla wheels, now that you have the model, you could really lean into the customisation benefits of 3D printing - add an image / pattern / texture / kids names / whatever :)
It doesn't matter what colour filament you use, just install them and wait a couple of months until the dirt on the wheels matches the dirt on the covers :)
I would go with black. You are printing covers that will get scratched. The scratches will be visible more on the white than on the black. So you wouldn't have to replace them as often.
I use my Android phone to 3D scan using photogrammetry. The results qre are also awesone :).
Thanks for the video
Definitely go with orange. Orange and black is a great combo like your wall. But, my second vote would be white to give the contrast
It's a fun drinking game. Drink a shot everytime he says "teachable moment".
Dont do it. I tried and Im writing this message from hospital
At this point he should just lean into it. Sell shirts and stuff that says that. It's like wrestlers, gotta have that brand right? :D
If you're worried about finishing the parts to match the wheels, then I'd definitely go with black because you'd absolutely have to do some good finishing if it's white. Such a stark contrast will draw attention and everyone will be looking at it. Black would probably just go unnoticed.
Thanks, I always feel bad about printing parts too early, before I am done designing. I was glad to see lesson 6.
That is the whole beauty of 3DPrinting fast prototyping.
I am a fan of magnets and think they could be printed embedded into removable things, maybe even such as potentially for wheel rim covers and other custom vehicle exterior and interior mods that can be changed up or easily worked with, such as will be the goal with changing tires?
Another option would be maybe to print the plastic with press tabs that clip around some of the spoke segments of the wheel rims, maybe even add some cut up pieces of old bicycle innertubes glued as a surface protector to avoid scuffs of solid surfaces and dirt ingress from mileage.
Velcro strips from the dollar store though, if not the lego, deserves a honorary mention for adaptative hotswappable solutions too.
A Lego dashboard cover would be cool..
Thanks for the great video. I am fairly new to 3D printing and also looking into 3D scanning. Your video is very helpful to see the uses and limitations of a 3D scanner. Also, I prefer the look of the white wheel covers. Thanks again.
If you are happy to pay a bit for Blender addons, you can model pretty much anything non destructively nowadays. Can even display all your dimensions in the viewports realtime.
Considering your skillset and todays world. I think it would be well worth your time thoroughly researching and even practicing the most suitable and rapid 3d model production pipeline for prototyping your designs. The great thing about designing models for 3d printing is not having to worry as much about your models topology. A designer that has mastered modelling in Blender or similar 3d modelling software instead of cad based software, will have greater control over the shape and appearance of their 3d prints etc.
I think the main thing with prototyping is trying to reduce the size of the model to be as small as possible while still giving the context for whatever you're trying to fit together (as well as getting past the fact that it's inevitable to have some waste filament, and prototyping is actually a great way to mitigate that)
As an Israeli, thank you so much for helping Yad Sarah! Are they in need of more help?
Also, any chance of a fan meetup in Israel?
Hmmm not sure if they need more help but I could connect you to Ron! As for a meetup, heck yeah, I’d love to host one.. but where? My studio is too small lol
As a fellow Israeli 3d printing enthusiast and a fan, a meetup would be really cool :)
Perhaps you could host it at a local park where fans share stories and projects and see where it goes from there
Jonathan, I understand the concept behind parametric models and the flexibility they provide for customizing models. What I struggle with is how to change the parameters to get what i need. Any chance I could convince you to do a video on how you adjusted the parameters in the box model you used to make the case for the scanner?
One thing I have done when designing to a deadline, and I needed to save time (rather than filament), was to cut out the portion of the model that needed to be refined, and printing just the small piece rather than the whole model. Once I had that right, then I would print the whole thing.
Good point
Cool Video! I sometimes like to combine Fusion and Blender. Also makeing the fitting parts compliant (aka selectively flexible) you will have and easier time with fittings and tolerances 👍
From an engineer, your doing great.
If i ever feel defeated i just hit print. real world feedback is everything.
Thanks! I am glad to hear I'm not way off.
For the wheel covers, I would use hard TPU (relatively common 98A, 72D, ...) with a high infill... it is stiff enough an basically indestructible for this purpose... And these hard TPUs are as easy to print as PLA.
Damn that’s a good idea but I don’t know if it will be stiff enough to clip on because the part is so thin… only one way to find out.
@@thenextlayer rapid prototyping, if you never try it you will never know.
I will openly admit tha I hoard foam/bubble-wrap and boxes... Very rarely do they come into play but its always good to have them when needed
i love these videos, spark my creativity to make fixes for around the house! Gotta love 3D printing and the skills that come with it! thank you for the awesome video!!
I would love to see a video on a more in depth way of using the miraco and onshape for designing/printing things. I'm with a Police Dept Bomb Squad and we are purchasing the Miraco to do more in depth designs and fixes for our robots, drones, etc. Thanks in advance and appreciate the help.
Do your wheels black. It's not as visible if scratch (you'll be breaking and replacing a lot of them in that parking garage anyways) just make sure you have a lot of the same filaments.
This was really high yield. Solid "added value". Thank you.
Blender Pro tip: if you set the undo steps to 256 you CAN go back 256 steps in your workflow and start anew. Find it in preferences/system/memory & limits/undo steps (as a side note, you don’t have to press command+Z 256 times, there’s a undo selector menu so you can skip right to the point in your workflow you wanted)
Yeah but you have to start anew. I can just make a change 2000 steps back and it will update all the following steps…
@@thenextlayer geometry nodes are changing the game, if you model using nodes, you can change any variable nondestructively.
סירטון הסבר נהדר :)
תודה עבור השיתוף :)
THANK YOU FROM ISRAEL :)
You had a really great idea for volunteering in a public community, I will look to do the same here.
I'd prefer the color white, adds more character. Tho you have plastic tire covers, cars are 75% plastic anyways. However choose whatever color you want. Thankfully snap on plastic isn't permanent and reprinting isn't impossible if you change your mind.
On your wheels do one side black and the other side white and drive it for a while to get comments and to see which you like the best. Maybe even red? PETG does have more flexibility and will return back to the original shape better when flexed. Which should allow them to form better to the wheel when snapped on, just my opinion. Another great video, thanks.
Thanks. That's a good idea. And yeah, maybe I should try PETG, but it's soooo shiny...
I would go the black for the tyres.
Great video, very informative.
Black covers makes most sense. Firstly these are fdm prints so unless you've gone to the effort of sanding them all they're are dirt magnets; they'll never stay white. Secondly, you are literally printing these to get scuffed, black will show the marks less. Two other observations though, if your parking garage is like the ones we have in the UK, the kerbs will be painted yellow so you might want to match the yellow paint you'll no doubt be collecting 😂. Also, these are sacrificial parts, print them in a different colour next time. Finally, what about one of those funky carbon fibre filaments, get your own back on those kerbs. Keep up the good work, great to see you putting your skills to great use in the community
Thank you for your lessons and for understandable English in it.
I think it would be much easier to cover your ugly holes by simple round plates with just cylinders going from the back side of the plates. You should put pieces of rubber hose on the nuts inside the holes. And you should make the cylinder's internal diameter equal to the external diameter of the rubbered nuts. I think this thing is gonna hold on quite tight. And I think you won't spend more then half an hour to measure all the stuff.
I don’t know anything about 3d printing but I still enjoyed the video, keep it up pal, you are going to go far buddy. Nuf respect
Thanks so much!! Appreciate comments like this.
Haha, I remember saying in the kickstarter livestream suggesting someone upload a STL file of the MIRACO, and there it is like it was meant to be.
Useful for people to create adaptations with such as portable cases that will protect it, though I did get what they call the small solid casing and what they refer to as a transit bag with a shoulder strap, but if you want, it seems to fit well in alot of cases you might have around from old fossil electronics, such as those old various camcorder bags for 50 cents at yard sales or the 2nd hand stores even is something to consider.
I left the screen protector on the MIRACO without peeling it away, just cut away the pull tab carefully and its still holding up ok but its not as durable as the proper cellphone screen protectors being not as thin as the thing they shipped it with meant to be removed.
Can probably edit or find a tablet screen protector it, good idea for a MIRACO video to make showing a few that will fit it best for affordability and durability.
Mine shipped with a bonus grey rubberized gripcasing that fits the MIRACO exactly, and that is also something I mentioned they do during the kickstarter, and there it is like it was meant to be. It might only have been for backers of the kickstarter as a bonus thankyou though, I am not sure about the gripcases availability, but its perfect for when moving around with a mobile device of its nature, I mentioned about how people would be bumping into things in the real world use scenarios, it might even save it from a fall.
I added a magnetic haptic quick release cable connector meant for cellphones or laptops to it and you wont have to put any mileage onto the USB C device socket and it makes it really easy to one handed attach or remove to go rogue nomad mode without tripping over wires. Wireless, you gotta like it!
I have it parked on a larger camera tripod inherited from my dad who was really into photography to the point of having a darkroom setup with enlargers for poster size photowork as a hobby. Maybe I bought the MIRACO for him, in his honor as a type of family tradition in the field of optics? When I pressed BUY NOW, I did think of him and he would've bought it for it's 45megapixel 3d potentials we work with today.
Keep yourself and the rock alive as you roll out those block rockn' beats and innovations, dude, man, brotherrr!!
Subscribed.
Long time fan of the channel! Great video! and I love that you were able to help Yad Sarah! great org that does great work! Kol Hakavod! עם ישראל חי!
I am the same with making parts that I could generally just buy. But in your case, and definitely in mine, I feel like it's far more time consuming and often times a much worse product than is commercially available.
AWESOME episode, Jonathan! Just what the doctor ordered, in my case. Thank you!
Glad to help!
Excellent video! I'm just starting a custom 3D printing business. I've settled on the printer - a RatRig V-Core 4 500 Hybrid, IDEX on the horizon - but I want a good, dimensionally accurate 3D scanner as well. I've looked at the Einstar, but don't want the umbilical and don't have a laptop that will handle it. I've looked at a few other possibilities, but am leaning strongly toward the Miraco.
I'd love to see more content similar to what you've presented in this video.
I can almost guarantee you don't need 500mm size... it's MONSTEROUS.
@@thenextlayer Sorry this is so long; my enthusiasm gives me motor-mouth!
It is indeed a monster! While I don't *need* that size, I'm happy to have it. One of my friends at church wants me to print a replacement for a section of the dashboard for his 1970-ish Barracuda, which would have been possible with a 400. I think I'll have a lot of business from the classic car & muscle car clubs; it's a market I hadn't considered when I placed the order.
I'm coming from a rather disappointing 3 years with an Ender 3 V2 - not that it's a bad printer, but it wasn't up to the kind of printing I'd anticipated doing when I ordered it. I haven't printed much lately, and wanted to buy a printer that would print any filament (within reason) accurately; I also wanted a kit as I enjoy building things, and there's no better way to understand a machine than assembling it yourself.
I looked at a number of printers and almost pulled the trigger on a Voron 2.4 when someone suggested I look at the new RatRig V-Core 4, and I'm glad I did. I ended up ordering the 500 because it was only a couple hundred dollars more than the 400 I'd intended to go with. I ordered the hybrid kinematics kit and will add IDEX when the upgrade is available.
Why RatRig? Support on Discord is amazing, and many of the folks have printing businesses. RatRig printers use 3030 extrusions and thus have a stiffer frame, so I should be able to print faster. The hybrid kinematics package doubles acceleration, but more importantly it helps with print quality. The build is simpler than Voron's, and the VC4 is easier to square than the VC3. They provide their own OS (RatOS) that includes everything you need to run, configure and tune the printer. RatOS is a Pi image that includes Klipper, Mainsail, Moonraker and Klipper Screen as well as a configurator that eliminates editing config files as well as tuning aids including a real-time resonance display so you can watch the curves while you're tuning the machine.
And now, thanks in part to you, I've got a Revopoint Miraco on order, so I've got a new technology to look forward to mastering.
I am inspired by your work with the organization that offers free 'rentals' of home-use medical devices. This resonates as I have 3 friends at church that have all managed to break their ankles in the last few months (and we're a small church). I was talking to our parish administrator today and mentioned what you are doing. He knew of a local organization that does the same thing, so once I'm proficient at printing technical filaments I'll contact them to see if I can help. I know God smiles on you for your good works!
go with polymaker natural colored ASA. it would look actually really good with those wheels
Hi, can I download the Tesla Wheel Rims stl Files somewhere ? Are you selling them ? Tks for your reply 🙂
I'd vote for black and white alternating pieces, or maybe a gradient with each spoke a slightly different shade of white to black.
Amazing content! 3d printing is not only for cosplay or figurines, and it becomes a passion after all.
I've found that I rely on my dial calipers more than my digital calipers. Digital calipers are convenient but seems to drain the battery rapidly. I don't have to worry about batteries with my dial calipers.
Loved the video. Please can I have the stl for the tesla wheels. We have destroyed ours in similar circumstances. Literally got stuck down a tiny high kerbed street in Spain due to the crappy turning circle.
Awesome video Jonathan. Really enjoyed this one! Not super impressed by the Miraco tbh. Revopoint just isn’t there yet on the software front. Once you use an Einscan scanner you’ll realize how much better they are and how important it is to have good software in addition to good hardware. You should have been able to capture most of the geometry of that wheelchair part with the scan and just need to boolean out the inner geometry. The fact that you had to manually model it is disappointing but unsurprising based on my experience with Revopoint scanners.
Wow! I haven’t tried any einscan products I’m afraid
Wow, Great vid and EXCELLENT USE of B-roll. If there was stock footage it was so connected to the story I could not tell....WOW....GREAT JOB!!!!
Glad you enjoyed it!
It's up to you, but I would suggest ASA in white.
That'd be a rather interesting project to conquer. An Escher-esque mirror system for scanning the body of a 3D scanner using itself. 😁
Thankyou your chanel is very informative. I haven't even gotten a 3d printer yet. Need to fix some electric fence insulators that keep getting broken, maybe 3d printing them is a possibility?
Maybe!
If you printed the box with the slot in it to hold the pannel it would double as a handle.
You said most apartments in Israel have those three holes. What are they for? I'm the curious type.
Its a room made do defend and shelter the family in situation of bombing threat. Made from solid thick concrete, its name is MAMAD - Apartment protected space.
The holes are for filtering equipment and special for get hoses and other things to get trough the thick walls.
This room is a government require to build a new house or apartment building in Israel.
Nowadays especially when Hamas and other threats are lunching rockets on Israeli citizens and big cities..
BTW there are even concrete shelters in the streets for the same reason.
Hope I could help you understand! Have a nice weekend!
@@LichtenStudio Thanks for answering!
Time to join Fusion 360 family
Interestingly just came across this after buying a model y with 20 inch wheels that are destroyed from the previous owner parking by brail. I found 3d models online of the 19 and 21 inch wheels, but i cannot for the life of me find a model for my wheels. I've been spending hours and hours trying to rework the 3d scan and the curves are just too much for my cad skills. I wish i could justify that 3d scanner, my scans are off a phone app and i have no ability for easy post processing
You could just print two build plates, one for each color if you wanted two tone and no color changes
I didn't buy a 3d printer to make rabbits, boats, or chotchkis. I bought it to learn how to do EXACTLY THIS, so thank you, this is 'da shiznit,' as the hip kids say.
Thanks for making this video and recommending these rules. SUUUUPER helpful. And i appreciate the recommendation of the 3D scanner.
But I was curious if you tried using the latest iPhone to scan 3D objects. Would that get you close to a usable reference?
I haven’t had luck with photogrammetry but other people have
Truth be told, I already replaced from scratch a number of broken hard to find clips in our vehicle and stuff around the house.
wow amazing what spray brand do you use for dark part ?
By the way thanks a lot for sharing your knowledge!
Also I really like your style and advices
I say make the wheel covers in TNL orange
Too late now, but some of that Galaxy filament would have been way cool
I think the white would look great but they might get dirty/nasty pretty quick though, especially with brake dust.
Why care anyways?
It's designed to wear anyways since it's hitting a wall.
Can we expect a 3D gun tutorial this year? ;)
black is slicker
Would've been neat to see the streamdeck case with a modified lid that acts as the stand. Great video!
Came here to suggest this. 👍
Damn that’s a good idea why didn’t I think of that lol. I tried to mess with the lid a bit but it doesn’t fold all the way back and I decided not to reinvent both wheels lol. Maybe next time
Hi there , new subscriber . I wanted to know whether the lidar on the iPhones are any good for medium sized parts (10cmX5cm) . I assumed photogrammetry is more accurate, but I’m not sure.
All you need is a scanner that costs more than your printer! I get it, it's a sponsor, and there are practical applications for having a scanner that is (relatively) affordable, but based on the title it was a bit disappointing to see the whole video was just a long sponsor segment. Would have liked to see some other techniques.
I've been happy with most of your videos though so I'll see you next time. Keep it up!
Not really, that is just a tool, does't mean you need it
Photogrametry alone can work just as well.
Bingo. Sponsors paid for this video, without them, I wouldn’t have been able to do a video about just fixing stuff for fun… and I did it in such a way that half the projects did not require a scanner, and half took advantage of it. But you can get similar results with photogrammetry if needed. Scanners are getting better, and we are getting to the point where it makes sense even for hobbyists to have one, when prices come down…
What are those holes in the wall for?
You should re-number lesson n. 6 to lesson n. 1
I assume you did a test drive with the rim covers on before printing the whole lot. You don't want them flying off on the road piece by piece😊
Yes I did! They break if there isn’t another holding the tip on but if there is they are great
Black and White alternate like your LOGO on your shirt. While you are driving will it be GREY?
Excellent video! I love your videos!
Thank you very much!
Did u end up doing the 2 tone white? Would look nasty 🤙
yoga pads for the foam, what i use anyway.
Great video
Does somebody know what the cheapest price for the Miraco was in the past?
I have the revopoint mini2 3d scanner i am having a huge difficult time 3d scanning 1980's Hordak/Clawful/Mekaneck toy body armor. I can get some nice scans on the front image BUT not the inner side its very convex/concave its like the scanner cant find a surface to scan using a lightbox or using a powerful external light source donts help . i am scanning 1 peice of armor to be used like a original 2peices that clip togather. and if you scan it as in one scan 1 piece as soon as you try to scan the side and the inner the scan looses tracking and its now f@cked lol, and yes even if you start at a new scan with the mini2 pointing in the inside it still cant find a surface
White petg for your wheels ;)
So close to 100k!
Are you going to release the file for the wheel protectors?
Still tweaking but yeah
@@thenextlayer Awesome! Can't wait!
I vote for white. Not because it looks like the posche but because it's simpler than trying to match paint. I would rather steer into being unique than the trials of matching paint.
It doesn't matter if someone will notice any defects. I would rather not add any more damage to my vehicle while having the pride of knowing you made something for yourself.
Plus if anyone asks about it than you can promote yourself, channel, and business.
That's just my two cents.
What are those holes for in your buildings?
Bomb shelter pass-through
What is with those holes/plates in the walls anyways? I tried googling, but without knowing the nomenclature, I couldn't find why they exist in the first place.
They’re for air filtration and pipes in bomb shelters! Every apartment has one
Hi so I’ve been printing for about a year now and I’m looking to buy a second printer what is an intermediate level printer that you could recommend
Bambu lab probably
@@thenextlayer any specific machine because I was thinking the A1
It’s 1600 $ before any discounts
15% discount coming on Monday..: stay tuned
Having learned mold making, wood carving, wax model/lost wax and many other old methods of reproduction in art school I fail to see how fiddling with buttons and pictures for the same amount or more hours than it would take me is of any benefit. I already fix or make just about everything with molds, plastic welding, carving etc. and I get faster every time I do it. I can appreciate you trying to attract new enthusiasts to a new industry but observing the complexity as opposed to results this all seems like a very long walk to get to a place that literally vanishes if the electricity fails. Good luck with all of that.
The problem with 3d scanners is, that there is no good software to use the data. Do any one know a software which can transform the mesh into a good solid?
And here I thought maybe I could fix my friends iireplaceable Darth Vader figure with a piece of the helmet broke. But $1,299 for the scanner, that's too much. Freaking awesome tech though, hopefully it continues to come down in price.
well done