It has been great to watch you on this journey and I always look forward to the next episode. I am presently on my journey with a 280zx. Your tips and approach with planning ahead has helped in my approach to my next part of the restoration. Thanks for taking the time for putting these videos together as that in itself adds to the overall time commitment you are making.
Wow Brian. Taking everything down to shiny metal must have been just as gratifying as it was tough. Love the way you've worked the restoration. Best wishes and looking forward to seeing it completed.
Thanks! I'm much less anxious about doing all the paint on the car now. I know the exterior will be different but the process is pretty simple. Just need practice!
If you intend to lay down an undercoating, check the recoat/open time window for the epoxy primer. I know there is a time window as I also used the Eastwood product. I would suggest that you lay down the undercoating within that time window (saves time and additional work). If the epoxy primer is allow to cure for an extended period you will have to lightly sand the epoxy in order to get good adhesion of the undercoating.
I painted mine for the first time ever, the harbor freight ones I just used for primer (feather fill), one pointer I can point too is to find one of the mini guns to get all the super tight spaces. As for filling, I ended up with two kits so I could swap out, you will have to refill when you do a whole car but my guess is on that gun you getting a good amount of over spray which is fine. We are in one of the same Facebook pages I just posted about the wiper motor we will have to compare note for when your ready to spray the car you can learn from my first time experience!
Think you did a great job! ( when painting the whole car light coat first (even if it don’t look all covered) tack coat (helps with runs)have more than one removable cup
From my armchair I say you did well, everything has a first. I was thinking you would schedule the body paintwork in the warmer summer time, and do all your engine, transmission, drive work in the winter months. But appreciate your hard work, thanks for posting. 🐞
That would be ideal. Having to get the garage got enough to paint definitely isn't ideal. But I need to get the 280z off the rotisserie so I can pull the SS in for some work. I can't roll the rotisserie out because of my driveway. The plan is to work on the suspension, 2jz swap, etc next.
I cut the screen out of the lid when I spray primer. Just strain it thru a funnel strainer. I go a little heavier than what you may have done. But it appears that you're good. I like to have my next coat of sanding primer or undercoating/raptor liner etc ready so after the primer dries 60 minutes, you can paint over the epoxy primer with the next coat. For example, I'll spray epoxy over the metal, let it sit, then spray over it with urethane sanding primer. And go with a different color of sanding primer so you can see when to stop sanding. Add more sanding primer if necessary to get the surfaces straight to your liking. Use guide coat when sanding. All of this is for the body more so than the underbody
You could always switch to LVLP spraygun ( Low Volume /Low Pressure ) Much better way of spraying. Dont waste as much paint into the air ( waste ) and Low Pressure spraying is easier to manage. There are a few good TH-camrs channels on this method. If your a Temu / AliExpress buyer the guns are available on there.. I will look for you on the best youtube channel to watch and their recommendations on which LVLP guns are great. When it comes to cleaning your gun after use, just use spaycan gun cleaner. Best way and really simple.
Hmm that's a bit odd. I've lived in Maine essentially my whole life but I don't think I have a maine accent at all. The only time I didn't live in Maine was 1 year in Chicago. 😆
@@BLOKgarage - Wow, sorry, that must be kinda creepy for you! 2:16 "...all these surfaces here.." the "here" drops away just at the end "heer-ah" -almost like a Massachusetts JFK style but way more subtle and more like a stereotypical Chicago drawl. Sorry to geek out on your voice... it's a bit like a curse. I drive my wife nuts when I tell her I recognize voice actors in car ads or cartoon films etc. Cheers! Love the build!
Great job! Are you planning to seam seal (at least the new welds on the pans/spare) or just go straight to undercoat? I just got mine back from blasting and it is completely bare metal at the moment. I live in CO, so the blast shop said not to worry too much about flash rust since such low humidity here but I have to believe it is oxidizing as it sits there, even if I cannot see it. I guess I will at least rattle can prime then move forward. Like you, I have never taken a car to this level before.
How's the commodore going, it made me laugh that you're going to remove the chevy badge on the grill & replace it with the holden lion badge as they replace the holden lion badge for a chevy badge here in Australia. thanks for another great video. As Brian says on the paint society don't over think it it's just paint. premix your paint in a large mixing 1 litre cup this way you can refill easily, you can replace the filter in the lids.
Those harbor freight paint guns seem like they're one or few time use. Normally i would take a paint gun or my air brush apart after to clean everything, but with the cheap HF guns you can't.
I'm not super worried, it was only $30. But I could take the fluid adjust knob/spring/valve out to clean it. And the tip parts. Does a "real" spray gun break down more?
Seeing an entire side of the car a single color is SO satisfying. I know the feeling. Good work
You're not kidding. I'm super pumped.
As a fellow home restorer, I know how hard all this is - you're doing a fantastic job, well done.
Thanks!
It has been great to watch you on this journey and I always look forward to the next episode. I am presently on my journey with a 280zx. Your tips and approach with planning ahead has helped in my approach to my next part of the restoration. Thanks for taking the time for putting these videos together as that in itself adds to the overall time commitment you are making.
Thanks for watching, I'm glad you find the videos useful! Yeah recording, editing, making thumbnails, etc takes up so much time...
Another great effort in the garage, turning your hand to all aspects of the build. You'll be one satisfied driver when the day comes
Appreciate that, thanks for watching!
Wow Brian. Taking everything down to shiny metal must have been just as gratifying as it was tough. Love the way you've worked the restoration. Best wishes and looking forward to seeing it completed.
It definitely was!
Nice job brian. It is very satisfying even from here in ireland to see the car solid and all coated underneath. Keep up the good work!
Thanks, will do!
that came out really clean. Good work!
Thank you!
Nice job Brian. I think you are doing a fantastic job!! Looks great!
wow that came out so good! especially for the first try. very impressive!
Thanks! I'm much less anxious about doing all the paint on the car now. I know the exterior will be different but the process is pretty simple. Just need practice!
Great work B keep it up!! You’ll be a real pro for the next Z😊
I will not be buying another car with this much rust (hopefully) 😄
If you intend to lay down an undercoating, check the recoat/open time window for the epoxy primer. I know there is a time window as I also used the Eastwood product. I would suggest that you lay down the undercoating within that time window (saves time and additional work). If the epoxy primer is allow to cure for an extended period you will have to lightly sand the epoxy in order to get good adhesion of the undercoating.
Yeah thats a good call. Unfortunately life gets in the way of doing this optimally at times.
Brian, red scotchbright the epoxy and your undercut will stick just fine :)
😉
I painted mine for the first time ever, the harbor freight ones I just used for primer (feather fill), one pointer I can point too is to find one of the mini guns to get all the super tight spaces. As for filling, I ended up with two kits so I could swap out, you will have to refill when you do a whole car but my guess is on that gun you getting a good amount of over spray which is fine. We are in one of the same Facebook pages I just posted about the wiper motor we will have to compare note for when your ready to spray the car you can learn from my first time experience!
Oh yeah i did just see that post. I can't wait until i get to that kinda stuff.
Think you did a great job! ( when painting the whole car light coat first (even if it don’t look all covered) tack coat (helps with runs)have more than one removable cup
Yeah I definitely have a lot to learn when I get to the exterior.
From my armchair I say you did well, everything has a first. I was thinking you would schedule the body paintwork in the warmer summer time, and do all your engine, transmission, drive work in the winter months. But appreciate your hard work, thanks for posting. 🐞
That would be ideal. Having to get the garage got enough to paint definitely isn't ideal. But I need to get the 280z off the rotisserie so I can pull the SS in for some work. I can't roll the rotisserie out because of my driveway. The plan is to work on the suspension, 2jz swap, etc next.
Great job! Gave me confidence that I can do it, too.
I'm sure doing the exterior will be harder but it was honestly pretty easy/fun to do.
Keep up the great work!
Appreciate the support!
Looking good 👍
Thanks 👍
Nice work, car is looking great
Its getting there!
@ will be quick when parts go on and don’t have to come back off 🤙
I can't wait until I'm doing mechanical work instead of body work.
Respect. IYKYK
Looks Good 🔥
Appreciate it!
I cut the screen out of the lid when I spray primer. Just strain it thru a funnel strainer. I go a little heavier than what you may have done. But it appears that you're good.
I like to have my next coat of sanding primer or undercoating/raptor liner etc ready so after the primer dries 60 minutes, you can paint over the epoxy primer with the next coat. For example, I'll spray epoxy over the metal, let it sit, then spray over it with urethane sanding primer. And go with a different color of sanding primer so you can see when to stop sanding. Add more sanding primer if necessary to get the surfaces straight to your liking. Use guide coat when sanding. All of this is for the body more so than the underbody
Thanks for the tips! I had debated removing the strainer but wasn't sure if I should.
Switch to the PPS cup system. The liners and lids are disposable.
I definitely think when I get to the exterior I'll be upgrading my spray equipment.
You could always switch to LVLP spraygun ( Low Volume /Low Pressure )
Much better way of spraying. Dont waste as much paint into the air ( waste ) and Low Pressure spraying is easier to manage.
There are a few good TH-camrs channels on this method. If your a Temu / AliExpress buyer the guns are available on there..
I will look for you on the best youtube channel to watch and their recommendations on which LVLP guns are great.
When it comes to cleaning your gun after use, just use spaycan gun cleaner. Best way and really simple.
I've got a buddy that has been telling me to try out an LVLP. I'll def be looking into it.
Nice work, you can paint the outside of the car too. Go BC/CC, not as hard as you think
What is bc/cc?
@BLOKgarage Basecoat/Clearcoat. Try the HF Black widow gun
Ok yeah I just hadn't seen someone abbreviate it. Definitely going 2 stage. I've heard good things about that gun too.
So satisfying to see it all one color!
BTW, is that a slight IL (Chicago?) accent I am hearing occasionally..?
Cheers from Canada eh!
Hmm that's a bit odd. I've lived in Maine essentially my whole life but I don't think I have a maine accent at all. The only time I didn't live in Maine was 1 year in Chicago. 😆
@@BLOKgarage - Wow, sorry, that must be kinda creepy for you! 2:16 "...all these surfaces here.." the "here" drops away just at the end "heer-ah" -almost like a Massachusetts JFK style but way more subtle and more like a stereotypical Chicago drawl. Sorry to geek out on your voice... it's a bit like a curse. I drive my wife nuts when I tell her I recognize voice actors in car ads or cartoon films etc. Cheers! Love the build!
Great job!
Are you planning to seam seal (at least the new welds on the pans/spare) or just go straight to undercoat? I just got mine back from blasting and it is completely bare metal at the moment. I live in CO, so the blast shop said not to worry too much about flash rust since such low humidity here but I have to believe it is oxidizing as it sits there, even if I cannot see it. I guess I will at least rattle can prime then move forward. Like you, I have never taken a car to this level before.
My plan is epoxy primer > seam sealer > undercoating. Eastwood says you can apply seam sealer to bare metal if you wish also.
Breaking Bad vibes. Oddly satisfying.
How's the commodore going, it made me laugh that you're going to remove the chevy badge on the grill & replace it with the holden lion badge as they replace the holden lion badge for a chevy badge here in Australia. thanks for another great video.
As Brian says on the paint society don't over think it it's just paint. premix your paint in a large mixing 1 litre cup this way you can refill easily, you can replace the filter in the lids.
Yeah I've heard of that! I need someone to trade me their grill/badges!
@@BLOKgarage i'll see if i can get some from dealer for you what year was it again
It's a 2015
Those harbor freight paint guns seem like they're one or few time use. Normally i would take a paint gun or my air brush apart after to clean everything, but with the cheap HF guns you can't.
I'm not super worried, it was only $30. But I could take the fluid adjust knob/spring/valve out to clean it. And the tip parts. Does a "real" spray gun break down more?