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I’m running a Haltech elite 750 & love it. The best bang for your buck if you don’t want to run the oem intake & ecu combo would be to simply buy the intake, throttle body, & ecu (haltech 750) & a nice n/a cheap exhaust manifold & get it running and driving on that setup first, that way you only need to retune the ecu & spend the big bucks on a nice turbo kit when you’re ready. Write this all down & considering your cost options, I’m curious to see what you come up with, but I think this is worth considering. Hope this helps.

Nice one bro 👍

Cool project. Just curious why you wouldn't use a compass to scribe that cut line.

yeh standalone ecu gives you freedom..

I guess it all comes down to how long we talking? You gonna drive this thing na for 5 years? Or more like this time next year you start the turbo process? Cause that's a big deal in it all.

How,did the top get red? What’d we miss?

Standalone is the way.

red is the right color.

Great progress mate , go to the wreckers for a 12v power steering pump /resevoir , there's plenty of choice on modern cars and you've plenty of space to hide it . now you've added some colour Ito the shell ts making me want you to body colour the bay even more🙃

Don't bother with hydraulic power steering. Just get the silvermine electric power steering kit.

Brian, congrats on the progress of your build. Thank you from us subscribers/viewers for the quality of your vids and the consistency of uploads.

I realize you'll need a front facing intake manifold at some point once you go turbo, but IIRC you said in a previous video you were gonna drive the Z NA for a while until you had all the stuff to do a proper turbo build. In that case I would recommend against bolting on the FFIM before you go turbo, as it will rob you of torque/responsiveness due to the shorter runner length. The whole reason for the hot mess of long intake piping is to give the torque the turbo you won't have would ordinarily provide. At the end of the day it's up to you but I thought you might want to know if you weren't already aware!

Buy once cry once. If you CAN afford it, just change to the new ECU and new intake. The 7MGTE I worked on was a headache with all the old connectors breaking just looking at them wrong.

I definitely don’t have experience with aftermarket ECUs but I’ve heard great things from Haltech

Those other plugs are for the fuse box and power and stuff

You can use the power steering pump with an ffim but you need to relocate the reservoir

The throttle body is both dbw and cable, you can get kits to lock them to cable, and the thing on the side doubles as a pedal position sensor

Haltech is your best bet for a stand-alone ecu & psu

Definitely get a haltech with a nice new harness. Hypertune intake or plazmaman. All aussie made stuff and damn good 👌 cant go wrong with them

Haltech 2500 after market would be my choice.

Nope, do it right the first time. With what you have you will spend a huge amount of time chasing gremlins to make what you have work. Time better spent finding the right parts to make the engine purr. As for costs? Project cars are usually 40% more than what you expect.

Ampefi has a plug-n-play MS3Pro ecu that I think would work for your application.

Fantastic work

Man.. a spot weld cutter would of been so much easier ! But well done !

Doing the same upgrades, got B.C coils.i like the strength 💪 of what the Apex looks like compared to the rest..good job.

Wow..u the man! Used my little dental hook to pry the tab out and my 12v multi tool works great. Thanks 👍

Yellow/black!

Awesome job on the 2JZ install! It went relatively easy because of your planning and work previously done...the right parts makes all the difference too. Red would be great but the original 240Z 904 white is a gorgeous oem color. I have 2 904 White Zs and in my opinion it brings out the lines of the S30 really well. The 904 White is a little off white which I like because it understates and identifies the color in a good way. If you keep the flares dark, you may consider the oem metallic gray which is on the rear taillight panel. Rear panel, grill and flares in that color would all be complimentary.

Great work B. I was out welding in my rig today!! New fenders also came from resurrected classics!!! So gonna save a lot of cut and weld time!!! Bottoms of my stockers are rotten.

White like the pole said!! Then put bre stripes on it!!!

how about the teal color some 2jz valve color came in?

Color shouldn’t matter much because how often do you see them in your area? Probably not very often so it’s unique either way, go with your favorite fast color or white is GREAT!! Either way you’ll love it.

Nice! Looks like a big help.

Whats the longevity of the CD009 behind the 2j?

Safari Gold or Porsche Sunset Yellow! With gunmetal grey fenderflares and rims

I live for these videos every week

Grabber, orange, flat, black rockers, then flat black stripes

I would look up 2020 Civic blue. It is almost electric and with black and some slight accents in red (OG red badges) would look incredible!!!!

I wanna hear it go vrooooom!

Nice to see the JZ in the car, I bet you’re excited!

Slate gray/ dark silver with black accents.

The best colour for hiding body work is white. So … how confident are you in your body work skills?

White is a great color choice

Out in the garage, freezing outside, fire lit, no one else around, absolute bliss.

I say silver, in the 1970's Mercedes-Benz had a silver color, I think they still do and I think Nissan/Datsun used it at the time too. There are several shades of it from light to a greyish tone and the 280Z (Fairlady) would look nice in that. Matched with the proper style wheels.🐞

It has to be super-satisfying for you to see that in engine there, dirty or not. Add that everything lined up, including the custom trans mount and it's a huge milestone. I am not that far along with my 240 but your build is keeping me inspired! Color - Datsun 110 Red (has just a tiny bit or orange in it).

Nice work Bro. Cant wait to hear it run. Regards from Ireland

Red! It is my favorite color