My flshforge was layer shifting a lot, and all I had to do was tighten all the belts and belt/motor connections. For clogging, you could try taking apart the nozzle and clean it out?
I obviously live under a rock because i didnt even know 3d printers actually exist, this is the most beautiful thing i have ever seen in my life. Its so shiny just wow.
200% is actually significantly easier to print, not only are the walls thicker making the part more rigid, but the gaps between the parts are twice as large. For a real challenge, try printing it smaller!
3D Printing Nerd Oh no I saw those, I mean scaling it down below 100%. Normal scale is still not easy and quite an accomplishment for any printer, but anything below 70% is very very tricky!
Well that just looks painful to print. I have to say man, it's insane how much this channel has grown in a year or so haha. I remember when you were really pumped about the 2k haha
Is the multi-color PLA going to be avalible for purchase? I wasn't able to find it on the ProtoPasta site, and I'm looking for some beautiful multicolored filament just like yours!
My FolgerTech Prusa i3 had major problems with layer shift and jamming (mostly jams). After countless hours of modifying and messing around with the extruded and hot end, I finally fixed it by installing the e3d hot end and titan extruder. Now I very seldom get layer shifts, and I don’t think it’s jammed once yet with the new extruder.
Do the preassembled i3 mk3s tend to be less reliable than the kit built ones? I've now seen 4 or 5 examples on youtube of problems with the preassembled ones. Not sure if its a quality control issue during assembly or if bad things are happening during shipping, but its making me second guess my decision to buy a preassembled one in the next few weeks.
My pre-assembled one has a bit of a history. It was a training unit and wasn't suppose to make it's way to me. Usually, kits and pre-assembled use same parts and when assembled correctly are equally reliable.
Content aside, I like how friendly he is. Very representative of the new breed of well-spoken, kind, and friendly sounding nerds with great presentation skills.
Great video on the egg and Prusa! Been holding off on the Prusa till all the bugs are squashed. Where did you get the black Matt on your table? Like to pick one up. Thanks
I had the same problem with my mk2.5 filament jamming and had the clicking noise had to take apart the whole hot end couldn’t find out why it was doing that would love to know why that happened if you get any info!
Are the layer shifts only happening along the x-axis? My MK3 I just got has soft magnetic x-axis rods that are scored by the tight fitting x-axis bearings. It printed a couple of test prints properly but I came home to a failed print and every print after that failed. I investigated and found I could move the extruder by hand very easily until the extruder got to a certain point and then it became very difficult to move. Feeling the rods I could feel they were very rouch and deeply scored parallel to the movement axis. This causes the print to shift along the x-axis when the extruder moves past the scored marks or to stop completely. I emailed Prusa support last week but have not heard back.
In this case, I would normally play with temps, print speed, and retraction settings. However, in playing with this, it didn't solve the issue, and gcode that worked before now did not work with the same material. So, something was up.
Thanks for the reply! I really appreciate you and your videos. I installed a new heating block, all metal hot end, and cooling block yesterday (MK 10 on i3 Plus)... it's a pain to load filament, and doesn't seem to flow until about 112c. I printed a 20mm^3 to calibrate, and the first layer was GORGEOUS... no other layer even came out. I pushed the filament out with the little rod that came with the i3... I must have an alignment issue or heat fluctuation issue.
can you recycle plastic for printing? eventually i would like to get into 3D printing but i feel like it could get really expensive (especially starting out) unless i could take scrap plastic (from failed models and scaffolding) and turn it back into filament. also do you know anything about printing with heat resistant plastics on desk top printers? if so what would i need for that?
Tried to print it at 100% scale on my MK3 but unfortunately for some reason I'm getting problems with overhangs there. It looks nice but it's not movable. Tried to break it apart to figure out what's wrong and there I saw that it's fused together because of bad overhangs in the first layers but only on one side. Cooling problem?! O_o
I recently designed my own two part 3d object but I have yet to manage to print it successfully where the two parts can move independently. Not sure if it's a printer adjustment, settings in the model, printer or just the model is too fine to allow it to print successfully.
Could be as the part is not very big overall. I finally printed it as three parts that require some glue and a small rod to hinge them together. It is a tone arm rest with clamping mechanism for my old Pioneer turntable.
Be sure to keep us posted on what Prusa finds, as I have the same problem with my MK3, the semi all metal hot end just does not like PLA. Is there a easy way to put the original i3 MK2 hot end in the mk3 ? if so then I think we would really have a great printer.
yeah i tried this and mine fused also, i have a cr-10s. Any ideas or setting you can share for cura lastest version because I would like to make this darn egg. I'm .16 layer height, 3 walls, min. temp on filament 205 bed 50c. I even tried with .1 horizontal expansion. I did not do infill looked like the 3 walls filled up nicely. U did mention about moving z up, don't know what u mean by that.
I just bought a Prusa MK3 pre-built on April 3rd, it doesn't ship until May 9th. Would you recommend another machine or the MK2S instead? I'm willing to spend more if needed. I've also thought about getting the Creality Cr-10S? Thanks & wish I found your channel years ago.
3D Printing Nerd Well, I asked if I could go the kit route & how to do that? Then saw that the kit ships 16 days later, so I wrote another message 20 minutes apart & asked to keep my printer. An hour later they cancelled my order & haven't responded to keeping my original order or my placement in the shipping que. They also said they never heard of the assembled problems??? Now my order is cancelled & refund pending? Argh, lol. Can you do a comparison with the printers you have? I saw Gmax 1.5 & that looks sweet & high quality, the Cr-10S looks similar. Possibly going over what you should buy on a budget, a high quality (2k-5k), hobby grade, production grade, etc. Ease of use, auto bed leveling, nozzle replacement, removing parts, etc. Thanks... Now leaning towards Gmax 1.5, but your video was over a year ago & not sure if technology & other printers have surpassed it. Sincerely, Matthew
Stew JW Thanks for your thoughts... My Prusa MK3 order was cancelled even though I wrote a message stating not to cancel the order. I've also written them again asking if I can purchase the kit, but keep my original order date so it ships sooner, since I didn't really want to cancel the order. It's been 2 days & haven't heard from them??? I just saw the Pulse Xe full package & it looks very similar to the MK3, but with upgraded parts. I'm not sure what the differences between the two are. Still researching, but MatterHackers is in California, two states away from me & their customer service I've seen look great. I'll be calling them tomorrow to see what they recommend to me. I'd like to print filaments with Carbon fiber, stainless steel, copper, etc... as well as flexible material, PLA & ABS Sincerely, Matthew
I had the same clogging issues with my Kit based Mk3. Since it was kit based I had no option for return. Fortunately, Prusa online support was incredibly nice and easy to communicate with. After a couple of tear down and rebuilds of the hot end, customer support eventually provided me with a new E3D hot end. Once I installed that everything has been working fine ever since.
Hi Joel, I think could be a problem of "Shifted layers" connected with the belt shifting. A possible solution is to tighten the belt better with an add-on or to change it with a GT2 belt with steel cords. Please let me know what you think.
Obviously, I am just guessing but it sounds to me like you might have melted the TPFE insulator in your Mark 3's hot end if it's not an all-metal hotend. The other possibility I see is an out of spec nozzle or other incorrect mm per step setting increasing extrusion pressure beyond what it can extrude per MM of travel. Either by the hole being to small not extruding enough vs whats expected and pressure building directly in the nozzle or extruding to much and pressure building between the part and the nozzle due to over extrusion. I have had that with both bad nozzles and nozzles I crashed pretty badly with an uneven build surface 90% of my problematic printer issues where they are doing what the mark 3 has come down to either or both of those. On at least on occasion my steps per MM was wrong in the firmware as well. I usually keep at least 1 built hotend for each of my printers handy and a selection of nozzles. I have 8 printers that use 3 different hotend styles. A good test I use is to increase my layer print height to roughly 90% of the nozzle diameter, slow down the print to 60-80% normal ,20- 30% infill and 2-3 outter shells.
I had similar nightmare clogging on my Mk2S, thanks to Tom Jackson acting as a second pair of eyes looking at my S3D profile he discovered my fat fingers had somehow whacked my retraction settings way up. Changed backed to 1.2mm and it’s been working great ever since
Hey Joe, I also have the same clogging problem with my MK3. Please share the solution that Prusa provides you. It's too frustrating to deal with the clogging problem. Also what was your layer height? I have the issue whenever I print something lower than 0.2. Yesterday I tried to print a small pocket watch model (State alchemist pocket watch ;) FMA anyone? ) and it clogged mid print. I use SlicerPE with default prusa PLA and default settings and latest firmware. I needed to increase the speed to %150, deactivate silent mode, clean nozzle, print a simple block to clean nozzle and try again and it worked. I think there's an issue with MK3 fw or slicer.
Those are awesome. I have 2 Anet A8's. I printed one at 150% on one and 230% on the other. They came out perfect. I have modified both of them though and they print really nice with no issues. It failed on both my mini's at 100%.
I had to try this model myself when Angus put it out there as well... It printed mostly fine on my little $200 MP Select Mini V2, with a little prying required to separate the shells.
They are working on it! Right now it's a ton of manual labor to do. Once they can get a better process down OH DUDE you can bet they will be selling it.
They just need a hopper to rotate a bunch of colourant so users get a random selection lottery-style. Not that hard to discuss, probably a touch harder to implement in industry.
I looked on thingiverse for a torture egg file but can't find one or retraction egg or makers muse egg. I want to try my luck at making one. Where do I find the file? I will be using Cura and a Monoprice Mini. Thank you for any help. Oh! I really enjoy your channel.
Thanks for the kind words! Follow the link to Makers Muse video, and he has a link to it on gumroad. Link should be in a card on the video and in the description. Good luck!
I was going to make this at 238% scale up to make a cool 8in in height model and the scale up would help to insure the gap tolerance so it would spin. I was thinking to go .1 layer height to insure perfection. Then I thought that I better make sure it's solid, just in case I have to put some leverage in to free any issues, so an infill at 50%. Would take it over 60hrs to print. I then decided to print at it's original size but when I was watching the brutal extraction and retraction I thought, cool model but I don't want to destroy my machine. I did begin the process with the 238% scale up and I got a gorgeous first layer and let it run for 10 hrs and it was looking great, and just like you I got 3 great distinct and easily separated rings but 60hrs of eventual torture, I decided to just let you guys print it. Cool model but I love my machine so best not to torture. I will do 2-3 day prints but the extraction and retraction for probably 40 of the 60 hours would have been a bit much, can't be good for a machine. AND, I was considering to animate the rings by editing the model but, like I said I stopped but you are tempting me.
Now that I'm thinking about purge blocks, I just really wish the MMU sacrificed a little build volume for a purge bucket, Slic3r had an option to keep the purge block at a user-defined height (within reason) at the expense of build volume, or had a "sloppy color-change" option in Slic3r that just moved the extruder to the side, purged a couple cm of filament, then just ran right back into the model and tacked on an ugly string to snip. It seems like most of the waste plastic is from matching part height. I mean, I'll still probably get an MMU or a Palette+ someday, but that just looks like it'll devour spools.
Prusa's slic3r defaults to 200% first layer extrusion width, I think Angus will understand if you had to sand a tiny bit off the base for it to turn :P
Your retraction distance should be 2 or 3 mm, more than that it clogs. The layer shift is because layers at that point are not flat and thus nozzle hits them causing layer shift. Layers are not flat because of overheating thus expanding mainly upward. Nice prints, filaments and design
This is awesome! Any chance you might be trying out a Boxzy machine at any time? Those look so intricate and was thinking you could really get creative with the milling and engraving!
Can your help me?? I have a monoprice maker select plus. I’ve printed a bunch of complex print successfully. But after I successfully finished the makers muse egg. I ran into the same problem. Its jamming bad. Is I take apart the extruder and all that fix the jam. another print starts good but a few layers in it prints in the air. And jams BAD! again. I did not use any new filament or something weird. I used stuff I know works. What do you suggest for this problem.
Did you check the ptfe tube in the hot end's heat break? My prusa clone started having issues like that all of a sudden and it turned out to be the ptfe tube completely toasted and breaking apart at the tip, jamming my extruder head. The real issue was my thermistor not secured in place so my hot end would heat up much higher that the shown temperature.
bryan De Zeeuw weird, I don’t know a lot about that specific printer but assuming it uses standard E3D hot end parts I would try first replacing the nozzle and if that fails then I would replace the heat break. Again assuming it uses E3D compatible parts replacements can be found for less then $1 shipped from China for both of those parts
When you build the motorized version you could use steppers and create a puzzle... Put something in the egg and it can only rotate open and unlock when solved.
Planetary gearing is exactly what you're looking for to spin this thing. Stationary annulus to the shell, sun input gear to the center ring, and attach the second ring to the planet carrier.
Hey Joel If you want to make this spin with a motor, the best would be to modify the base to have gears that will make each part rotate around the center :)
it wouldn't be hard to make some continuous rotation servos and use a servo tester so you can have variable speed. you could even print the base, gears, and even the turntables that have little pegs that could index on the bottom of the egg...
I _REALLY_ wanted to, but the Gmax was busy on a multi day print and I couldn't wait. I may still do a giant egg on the gMax when it's queue of prints is done!
as for the animation of the egg, why not use a single motor and 3 different gear ratios running a drive wheel on each ring, that way it takes less energy and is always synchronous.
Im no expert but but tolerances are independant of size of print. It didn't fuse on the bigger model coz the tolerance is twice as big. Have you put in the same tolerance for the smaller and the bigger model both would have been fused or seperate.
That level shift is probably due to the head bumping into some part of that print and being stucked for some seconds. That will fck up the position tracking.
You have a LOT of printers, so I'd probably also ship it out rather than gut it and work on it myself with other projects on the table, but it would've been neat to see your troubleshooting process for the MK3. My first thought would be the optical encoder for the filament sensor being dirty or just going bad, though. That printer's a little too smart to try to print with a jam if it was a purely mechanical problem. As far as cutting yourself while cutting a fused first layer goes, leather gloves are great for that. They make it a little awkward to cut fine details, but they've saved more fingers than I have, from all the times I've forgot to change the offset for higher bed temps. (And then there's every time someone asks for a really smooth bottom on a part and I groan and drop the Z intentionally for easier post.)
That's a shame. Hopefully it was some kind of early unit issue. Got a 2.5 upgrade on backorder, and I think I'd go crazy if I couldn't pin down the specific issue. If you hear back on what it was, I'd be interested in an update.
Let's just hope these machines never achieve true sentience and 3D Print me to death in my sleep #SorryNotSorry ;)
Well. Now I’m terrified.
SLA printer stumbles up the stairs with uncured resin dribling out of it's mouth :joy:
My flshforge was layer shifting a lot, and all I had to do was tighten all the belts and belt/motor connections. For clogging, you could try taking apart the nozzle and clean it out?
Maker's Muse it just slowly prints a pillow to smother you with over the course of 10 hours
LOL
Remember Markiplier from his 300 try not to laugh videos ?
This is him now...
Feel old yet
Yes, I do feel old!
No because this isn’t him
Oh my God is he markiplyer
Mystic Skateboarding you know i get the joke but i’m just being a troll xd so /r/woooosh to you too
Magnus Nah man, you just sorta made yourself seem dumb genuinely.
So, what actually happened was your machine broke your egg...
i cut my finger trying to remove supports, it's a dangerous hobby.
i got more injuries from 3d printing then military exercises.
NavalNation lol, true, I have a scar on my thumb from trying to remove supports and cutting myself.
That’s just sad 😂
lol. Half my scars are from cooking. No seriously.
It's surely the most mundane things in life that are the most hazardous.
get the water-soluble stuff then
Cough cough doubt Navy gets hurt bad cough cough.
Make a metal one. Put a Tea Light candle in the center of it.
Turn the top of the egg to dial brightness, it would make a great mood light.
What a tough egg to crack
Print 'N Play (long pause) (double blink) (sigh)
lol
anger
Stop
YES!! Motorized!!! Hours, Mins, Seconds... Turn it into a clock!!!
Practical Printing shh it's in the works ;)
This would be a pretty awesome clock idea.
My Dayz! That would be sooo cool. Please please someone do this!
I like how your brain works!
Milli micro nano atto plank seconds
I obviously live under a rock because i didnt even know 3d printers actually exist, this is the most beautiful thing i have ever seen in my life. Its so shiny just wow.
Right? The colors and motion combine to produce something so very cool!
200% is actually significantly easier to print, not only are the walls thicker making the part more rigid, but the gaps between the parts are twice as large. For a real challenge, try printing it smaller!
I did, I had a couple 100% scale eggs that I showed, did you see them?
3D Printing Nerd Oh no I saw those, I mean scaling it down below 100%. Normal scale is still not easy and quite an accomplishment for any printer, but anything below 70% is very very tricky!
I am IN LOVE with that color changing filament. Just WOW!
Meow
"Let's step back. I've made art."
I think these Joel videos are so good, because he's so relatable.
You would have said the same thing.
Well that just looks painful to print. I have to say man, it's insane how much this channel has grown in a year or so haha. I remember when you were really pumped about the 2k haha
DUDE. Crazy right???
3D Printing Nerd haha it's insane. Seriously though, congrats man, I'm glad it's worked out so well for you at this point!
The sadness and bleeding will end when start being more careful and STOP CUTTING YOURSELF!
Haha! Thanks for the laugh though, I can relate.
How much is that Prusa printer? I can't find proper price
would a grain of dirt or something get lodged in the teeth of the x/y/z cause a layer shift and cause the trouble?
Is the multi-color PLA going to be avalible for purchase? I wasn't able to find it on the ProtoPasta site, and I'm looking for some beautiful multicolored filament just like yours!
My FolgerTech Prusa i3 had major problems with layer shift and jamming (mostly jams). After countless hours of modifying and messing around with the extruded and hot end, I finally fixed it by installing the e3d hot end and titan extruder. Now I very seldom get layer shifts, and I don’t think it’s jammed once yet with the new extruder.
Do the preassembled i3 mk3s tend to be less reliable than the kit built ones? I've now seen 4 or 5 examples on youtube of problems with the preassembled ones. Not sure if its a quality control issue during assembly or if bad things are happening during shipping, but its making me second guess my decision to buy a preassembled one in the next few weeks.
My pre-assembled one has a bit of a history. It was a training unit and wasn't suppose to make it's way to me. Usually, kits and pre-assembled use same parts and when assembled correctly are equally reliable.
Content aside, I like how friendly he is. Very representative of the new breed of well-spoken, kind, and friendly sounding nerds with great presentation skills.
what slicer was the red/orange one done with?
Prusa Edition of Slic3r
Great video on the egg and Prusa! Been holding off on the Prusa till all the bugs are squashed. Where did you get the black Matt on your table? Like to pick one up. Thanks
That's from Amazon! I'll get a link once back at my computer!
3D Printing Nerd thanks Joel!
Would love to get multicolored filament like the one you use...can They be bought ?
No you cannot be bought
Jejejeje Didn't notice the typo..
How reliable and accurate is a Prusa MK3 for a beginner?
I had the same problem with my mk2.5 filament jamming and had the clicking noise had to take apart the whole hot end couldn’t find out why it was doing that would love to know why that happened if you get any info!
How does it not fuse? Do you use support material?
I did not!
Are the layer shifts only happening along the x-axis?
My MK3 I just got has soft magnetic x-axis rods that are scored by the tight fitting x-axis bearings. It printed a couple of test prints properly but I came home to a failed print and every print after that failed. I investigated and found I could move the extruder by hand very easily until the extruder got to a certain point and then it became very difficult to move. Feeling the rods I could feel they were very rouch and deeply scored parallel to the movement axis. This causes the print to shift along the x-axis when the extruder moves past the scored marks or to stop completely.
I emailed Prusa support last week but have not heard back.
Try the live chat, they may be a little busy but usually their is only a 5 minuites wait and they can sort it out for you their and then :)
When someone starts having clogging and loading issues like that, what can they do to fix them?
In this case, I would normally play with temps, print speed, and retraction settings. However, in playing with this, it didn't solve the issue, and gcode that worked before now did not work with the same material. So, something was up.
Thanks for the reply! I really appreciate you and your videos. I installed a new heating block, all metal hot end, and cooling block yesterday (MK 10 on i3 Plus)... it's a pain to load filament, and doesn't seem to flow until about 112c. I printed a 20mm^3 to calibrate, and the first layer was GORGEOUS... no other layer even came out. I pushed the filament out with the little rod that came with the i3... I must have an alignment issue or heat fluctuation issue.
How well does water flow through the rotating blades?
can you recycle plastic for printing? eventually i would like to get into 3D printing but i feel like it could get really expensive (especially starting out) unless i could take scrap plastic (from failed models and scaffolding) and turn it back into filament. also do you know anything about printing with heat resistant plastics on desk top printers? if so what would i need for that?
What caused the Prusa I3 MK3 issue. I was having a similar problem with mine
Tried to print it at 100% scale on my MK3 but unfortunately for some reason I'm getting problems with overhangs there. It looks nice but it's not movable. Tried to break it apart to figure out what's wrong and there I saw that it's fused together because of bad overhangs in the first layers but only on one side. Cooling problem?! O_o
Sounds like over extrusion, too low of layer height, or like you said cooling.
That color change filament (especially the red) is really nice looking.
The blue is my favourite, but the red looks cool:)
I recently designed my own two part 3d object but I have yet to manage to print it successfully where the two parts can move independently. Not sure if it's a printer adjustment, settings in the model, printer or just the model is too fine to allow it to print successfully.
Perhaps the clearance between parts isn't large enough?
Could be as the part is not very big overall. I finally printed it as three parts that require some glue and a small rod to hinge them together. It is a tone arm rest with clamping mechanism for my old Pioneer turntable.
Interesting design. i wonder in a cheap clock mechanism could be used; have the inner be the seconds and the middle be the hours.
wouldn't it be centre seconds, middle minutes and outer hours?
Good idea though:)
What CAUSED the layershift and extruder clogging?
Unknown. The machine is going back to Prusa to investigate.
I wonder what that filament is and who made it
Be sure to keep us posted on what Prusa finds, as I have the same problem with my MK3, the semi all metal hot end just does not like PLA. Is there a easy way to put the original i3 MK2 hot end in the mk3 ? if so then I think we would really have a great printer.
yeah i tried this and mine fused also, i have a cr-10s. Any ideas or setting you can share for cura lastest version because I would like to make this darn egg. I'm .16 layer height, 3 walls, min. temp on filament 205 bed 50c. I even tried with .1 horizontal expansion. I did not do infill looked like the 3 walls filled up nicely. U did mention about moving z up, don't know what u mean by that.
I just bought a Prusa MK3 pre-built on April 3rd, it doesn't ship until May 9th. Would you recommend another machine or the MK2S instead?
I'm willing to spend more if needed. I've also thought about getting the Creality Cr-10S?
Thanks & wish I found your channel years ago.
No, I still recommend the mk3, as the one I built from the kit is working crazy well.
3D Printing Nerd So, I should probably ask to have the kit instead & add a few more accessories?
It's totally up to you. The kit is a fun build.
3D Printing Nerd Well, I asked if I could go the kit route & how to do that?
Then saw that the kit ships 16 days later, so I wrote another message 20 minutes apart & asked to keep my printer. An hour later they cancelled my order & haven't responded to keeping my original order or my placement in the shipping que.
They also said they never heard of the assembled problems???
Now my order is cancelled & refund pending? Argh, lol.
Can you do a comparison with the printers you have? I saw Gmax 1.5 & that looks sweet & high quality, the Cr-10S looks similar. Possibly going over what you should buy on a budget, a high quality (2k-5k), hobby grade, production grade, etc. Ease of use, auto bed leveling, nozzle replacement, removing parts, etc.
Thanks... Now leaning towards Gmax 1.5, but your video was over a year ago & not sure if technology & other printers have surpassed it.
Sincerely,
Matthew
Stew JW Thanks for your thoughts... My Prusa MK3 order was cancelled even though I wrote a message stating not to cancel the order. I've also written them again asking if I can purchase the kit, but keep my original order date so it ships sooner, since I didn't really want to cancel the order.
It's been 2 days & haven't heard from them???
I just saw the Pulse Xe full package & it looks very similar to the MK3, but with upgraded parts. I'm not sure what the differences between the two are. Still researching, but MatterHackers is in California, two states away from me & their customer service I've seen look great. I'll be calling them tomorrow to see what they recommend to me.
I'd like to print filaments with Carbon fiber, stainless steel, copper, etc... as well as flexible material, PLA & ABS
Sincerely,
Matthew
Having seen Angus' video and now yours, Joel, I'm definitely gonna get a 3d printer just so I can print this thing.
I had the same clogging issues with my Kit based Mk3. Since it was kit based I had no option for return. Fortunately, Prusa online support was incredibly nice and easy to communicate with. After a couple of tear down and rebuilds of the hot end, customer support eventually provided me with a new E3D hot end. Once I installed that everything has been working fine ever since.
This needs to forever be known as The Death Egg. It just does.
Also, remember when Dark Helmet was playing with his dolls in Spaceballs? Yeah.
Dan Bowkley *sonic 3 and knuckles*
Search chicken invaders. Be happy
Hi Joel, I think could be a problem of "Shifted layers" connected with the belt shifting. A possible solution is to tighten the belt better with an add-on or to change it with a GT2 belt with steel cords. Please let me know what you think.
Obviously, I am just guessing but it sounds to me like you might have melted the TPFE insulator in your Mark 3's hot end if it's not an all-metal hotend. The other possibility I see is an out of spec nozzle or other incorrect mm per step setting increasing extrusion pressure beyond what it can extrude per MM of travel. Either by the hole being to small not extruding enough vs whats expected and pressure building directly in the nozzle or extruding to much and pressure building between the part and the nozzle due to over extrusion. I have had that with both bad nozzles and nozzles I crashed pretty badly with an uneven build surface 90% of my problematic printer issues where they are doing what the mark 3 has come down to either or both of those. On at least on occasion my steps per MM was wrong in the firmware as well. I usually keep at least 1 built hotend for each of my printers handy and a selection of nozzles. I have 8 printers that use 3 different hotend styles. A good test I use is to increase my layer print height to roughly 90% of the nozzle diameter, slow down the print to 60-80% normal ,20- 30% infill and 2-3 outter shells.
Whats the egg for???decor or does it have something else going on???
#DestroyerOfWorlds #BurnTheWitch!!
I had similar nightmare clogging on my Mk2S, thanks to Tom Jackson acting as a second pair of eyes looking at my S3D profile he discovered my fat fingers had somehow whacked my retraction settings way up. Changed backed to 1.2mm and it’s been working great ever since
How long is that clock going to read 2:00? Obviously needs to replace battery!
FOREVER! hahahaha
Hey Joe, I also have the same clogging problem with my MK3. Please share the solution that Prusa provides you. It's too frustrating to deal with the clogging problem. Also what was your layer height? I have the issue whenever I print something lower than 0.2.
Yesterday I tried to print a small pocket watch model (State alchemist pocket watch ;) FMA anyone? ) and it clogged mid print. I use SlicerPE with default prusa PLA and default settings and latest firmware. I needed to increase the speed to %150, deactivate silent mode, clean nozzle, print a simple block to clean nozzle and try again and it worked. I think there's an issue with MK3 fw or slicer.
It's
Those are awesome. I have 2 Anet A8's. I printed one at 150% on one and 230% on the other. They came out perfect. I have modified both of them though and they print really nice with no issues. It failed on both my mini's at 100%.
6:00 didn't Angus print it on a SLA machine several weeks back? i believe it was part of his Photon review.
My tronxy had the same problem after running it for a year straight I swapped out the whole hot end now it prints better than when I got it new
What molecule is that on the wall behind you? It looks kinda familiar, but I'm no chemist.
Hello 3d printing nerd I’ve got a 3d printer and I’m just wondering if you have ever use the flash forge finder.
Hey Jack! I have! Unfortunately my Finder didn't work right and I couldn't get it fixed. I know other who use them and love them.
Isn't there a purge a model option now? Just prints a second model with the purge
I had to try this model myself when Angus put it out there as well... It printed mostly fine on my little $200 MP Select Mini V2, with a little prying required to separate the shells.
Did you do a cold pull
Printing it right now on my Mini Delta. I enlarged it by 25% to fill the print area. Will see how this goes.
That is a perfect print for having a cool color mix. First I thought that mixing colors would be really dumb, but I was very very wrong :-)
My mk2 have problems with layer shifting and i reinstaled the slicer then it started to work as normally bu then it started to layer shift again :(
Uh oh.
I seriously want that filament it's MAGICAL
I really wish protopasta would sell it...
They are working on it! Right now it's a ton of manual labor to do. Once they can get a better process down OH DUDE you can bet they will be selling it.
Now if only I didn't have to sell the firstborn to get their stuff here :(
Not the exact same nor as magical, but I've had great results with smile.amazon.com/dp/B01IBF2T0Y/ref=cm_sw_r_cp_awdb_t1_fAa0AbPFQFYXQ
They just need a hopper to rotate a bunch of colourant so users get a random selection lottery-style. Not that hard to discuss, probably a touch harder to implement in industry.
I looked on thingiverse for a torture egg file but can't find one or retraction egg or makers muse egg. I want to try my luck at making one. Where do I find the file? I will be using Cura and a Monoprice Mini. Thank you for any help. Oh! I really enjoy your channel.
Thanks for the kind words! Follow the link to Makers Muse video, and he has a link to it on gumroad. Link should be in a card on the video and in the description. Good luck!
Man, that multi color filament is SUPER Nice.. Congrats on the build..... LOL, LOL, LOL, LOL
what is the egg's name
I was going to make this at 238% scale up to make a cool 8in in height model and the scale up would help to insure the gap tolerance so it would spin. I was thinking to go .1 layer height to insure perfection. Then I thought that I better make sure it's solid, just in case I have to put some leverage in to free any issues, so an infill at 50%. Would take it over 60hrs to print. I then decided to print at it's original size but when I was watching the brutal extraction and retraction I thought, cool model but I don't want to destroy my machine. I did begin the process with the 238% scale up and I got a gorgeous first layer and let it run for 10 hrs and it was looking great, and just like you I got 3 great distinct and easily separated rings but 60hrs of eventual torture, I decided to just let you guys print it. Cool model but I love my machine so best not to torture. I will do 2-3 day prints but the extraction and retraction for probably 40 of the 60 hours would have been a bit much, can't be good for a machine. AND, I was considering to animate the rings by editing the model but, like I said I stopped but you are tempting me.
What if you used multi material without purging would it end up multi coloured
I think so!
Have you ever heard of the electrically heated knife? It's great for fine cuts on plastic stuff
That waste block looks like nice pen making material to me.
Oooh. I had thought about using my laser to laser designs onto the side.
It’d be really cool if you made something similar to this, but you could put a candle in it so there would be cool shadows...
Now that I'm thinking about purge blocks, I just really wish the MMU sacrificed a little build volume for a purge bucket, Slic3r had an option to keep the purge block at a user-defined height (within reason) at the expense of build volume, or had a "sloppy color-change" option in Slic3r that just moved the extruder to the side, purged a couple cm of filament, then just ran right back into the model and tacked on an ugly string to snip. It seems like most of the waste plastic is from matching part height.
I mean, I'll still probably get an MMU or a Palette+ someday, but that just looks like it'll devour spools.
Prusa's slic3r defaults to 200% first layer extrusion width, I think Angus will understand if you had to sand a tiny bit off the base for it to turn :P
Is the markeplier?
THE MARKIPLIER
3D Printing Nerd I just read my comment and I didn’t even realize I spelled everything so incoherent. LOL
Your retraction distance should be 2 or 3 mm, more than that it clogs. The layer shift is because layers at that point are not flat and thus nozzle hits them causing layer shift. Layers are not flat because of overheating thus expanding mainly upward. Nice prints, filaments and design
This is awesome! Any chance you might be trying out a Boxzy machine at any time? Those look so intricate and was thinking you could really get creative with the milling and engraving!
I bet that waste block would be really fun to see on a lathe! Reminds me of Peter Brown's pen blanks!
I was thinking of send one to him!
Can your help me?? I have a monoprice maker select plus. I’ve printed a bunch of complex print successfully. But after I successfully finished the makers muse egg. I ran into the same problem. Its jamming bad. Is I take apart the extruder and all that fix the jam. another print starts good but a few layers in it prints in the air. And jams BAD! again. I did not use any new filament or something weird. I used stuff I know works. What do you suggest for this problem.
Sorry for the bad grammar. Typing this fast before my professor starts his lecture
Did you check the ptfe tube in the hot end's heat break? My prusa clone started having issues like that all of a sudden and it turned out to be the ptfe tube completely toasted and breaking apart at the tip, jamming my extruder head. The real issue was my thermistor not secured in place so my hot end would heat up much higher that the shown temperature.
bryan De Zeeuw weird, I don’t know a lot about that specific printer but assuming it uses standard E3D hot end parts I would try first replacing the nozzle and if that fails then I would replace the heat break. Again assuming it uses E3D compatible parts replacements can be found for less then $1 shipped from China for both of those parts
Carlos MDC thanks, I’ll check it out.
Logan 220 thanks
When you build the motorized version you could use steppers and create a puzzle... Put something in the egg and it can only rotate open and unlock when solved.
I'm a little sad there is no "gmax sized" print...
Sorry man. gMax was busy printing something else at the time
Have you tried a filament oiler?
I half anticipated blood everywhere from the rough plastic when you started to remove the fused parts on the egg.
that Gold, Silver, and green one you printed looks like it'd be something from Ratchet&Clank
Everyone is making cool things using the 3D printer and here I am printing an egg
Planetary gearing is exactly what you're looking for to spin this thing. Stationary annulus to the shell, sun input gear to the center ring, and attach the second ring to the planet carrier.
Hey Joel
If you want to make this spin with a motor, the best would be to modify the base to have gears that will make each part rotate around the center :)
Oooh, that's a fun idea!
it wouldn't be hard to make some continuous rotation servos and use a servo tester so you can have variable speed. you could even print the base, gears, and even the turntables that have little pegs that could index on the bottom of the egg...
Hey look at it this way, that failed egg could be an awesome candle holder !
Can you do a Video about a Filament recycler like a filastruder? You could recycle purge blocks
Yes, I can :)
3D Printing Nerd wohooo
Long time ago (end of 2017? 😂) you did pronounce that you get a filament recycler soon... Still wait for the video about it 😉
Wet sand the bottom until you can move it freely
Put one of those flickering candle LEDs in the middle of it. Could look pretty cool
That would look cool!
Don't send it back. Diagnose and fix it. Would be a great process to show on your channel. Keep up the great work.
For the small fused one, could you rub it on sandpaper to remove the joined bottom layer?
That might prevent bleeding. lol
No GMAX egg? You’ve gone soft, Joel!
I _REALLY_ wanted to, but the Gmax was busy on a multi day print and I couldn't wait. I may still do a giant egg on the gMax when it's queue of prints is done!
3D Printing Nerd I look forward to seeing it! Keep up the great work
Then the solution is obvious, get another Gmax ;)
You're right!
as for the animation of the egg, why not use a single motor and 3 different gear ratios running a drive wheel on each ring, that way it takes less energy and is always synchronous.
Im no expert but but tolerances are independant of size of print. It didn't fuse on the bigger model coz the tolerance is twice as big. Have you put in the same tolerance for the smaller and the bigger model both would have been fused or seperate.
That level shift is probably due to the head bumping into some part of that print and being stucked for some seconds. That will fck up the position tracking.
Does anyone know of anyone that can fix 3D printers? Mine broke trying to print the master sword.
Pretty sure to fix the PLA jam you can 3D print a price that allows the PLA through the extruder to pass through
You have a LOT of printers, so I'd probably also ship it out rather than gut it and work on it myself with other projects on the table, but it would've been neat to see your troubleshooting process for the MK3. My first thought would be the optical encoder for the filament sensor being dirty or just going bad, though. That printer's a little too smart to try to print with a jam if it was a purely mechanical problem.
As far as cutting yourself while cutting a fused first layer goes, leather gloves are great for that. They make it a little awkward to cut fine details, but they've saved more fingers than I have, from all the times I've forgot to change the offset for higher bed temps. (And then there's every time someone asks for a really smooth bottom on a part and I groan and drop the Z intentionally for easier post.)
Oh, believe me, I took the machine apart a number of times. heh. It was awesome and sucked all at the same time.
That's a shame. Hopefully it was some kind of early unit issue. Got a 2.5 upgrade on backorder, and I think I'd go crazy if I couldn't pin down the specific issue. If you hear back on what it was, I'd be interested in an update.
It was beyond an early unit, it was a training machine that wasn't suppose to leave the factory. Oops.
That's relieving. Seems likely that whatever the issue was, it should be resolved by now. Thanks!
Looks like Angus isn't awake yet, I await his witty remark.
Hi!!!
What is it on your table??
This in green...