Making springs on the lathe & measuring spring strength
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- เผยแพร่เมื่อ 17 ส.ค. 2016
- A walk through of how to wind a compression spring on a mini lathe.
Full description of calculating gears needed to set pitch.
Plus easy method to measure spring constant with a few simple hardware items.
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Great video. With an electronic lead screw this makes the process a heck of a lot easier.
I've never seen gear ratios explained so simply. Well done sir and thanks!
Hi Stephen, great video clearly explained. The best I ever saw about diy springs. Hope to see more machining on the mini lathe. Thank you for sharing.
Best regards, Piet
An excellent and very informative video. I wish I'd kept hold of my mini lathe now!
Many thanks for sharing.
Andrew
Absolutely excellent training/teaching you are a natural. Best I have ever seen on making springs. Thank you much
Excellent video mate. Keep up the good work.
Great video, very helpful.. Thank you for making and sharing it. I have a similar lathe which also has the 1.5mm lead screw
great video,thank you for sharing.
You are a smart fellow. Thanks for the ideas
Nice video. Thanks!
Very helpful. Thanks.
If you stress relieve that spring by heating it at 250ºC - 275ºC for 30minutes in your oven shortly after coiling, the spring will last a lot longer and also gain a couple of points of Rockwell "C" hardness. Allow it to cool slowly and give it a liberal dousing with mineral oil to stop it from rusting which allows hydrogen embrittlement.
All in all, a brilliant video for setting up your lathe and checking the spring's properties afterwards.
Interesting. I didn't think you could do such an effective heat treatment on the spring steel at such low temperatures. I will definitely try that out next time I need to make some.
Hi, sorry to say but there are 2 things misunderstand:
A) the Heat treatment said is ok, it is a stress relief treatment.
B) hydrogen embrittlement, this problem is Only after Doing electrolitic Surface treatment with zinc.
Great video, thanks for posting. I'm considering doing this setup for our prototype spring-making. I've got a couple of questions for you. Have you run into a situation where you needed to apply tension to the wire in order to get it to wind? Some of the lighter wire that we work with has to be "pinched" as we're winding to get it to wrap around the mandrel. The other question I have is would your setup work for a larger spring like 4.6 inch diameter for example? Any recommendations on lathes?
With thinner wire and a small spring I need to pull it tight to get it to wrap properly.
With a bigger lathe 4.6 inch diameter should be possible. But for that, for the hole on the toll post you feed the wire through you might want that pointed up at an angle a bit. You want to make sure the wire in feeding in closer to a tangent to the mandrel. But doing that I don't see why it shouldn't work fine.
What are the electronics mounted to the aluminum spacers by the hand dials on the compound and cross slide
I fitted a digital readout kit to replace the standard dials.
They stick out too far and the battery goes flat too quick, so I've since removed them and just gone back to the standard dials again.
you should be measuring your x compression distance not from the end of the spring, but from the start and end of the areas of the spring that are able to compress
It doesn't matter in this case because I'm calculating only the change in length. All the extra length at the ends cancels out when I do the subtraction.
I could have made both measurements from the bottom of the bolt to the floor, or from the top of the bolt to the ceiling if I wanted. As long as I use the same point on the bolt and the same fixed reference point for both measurements I will get the same answer.
+
So much time to make a spring, I can make five every minute