Sep. 2021 I just bought the M18 MILWAUKEE 2802 and comparing it with another that I have the Brushless 1/2 Makita 18v Dhp485sye, the MILWAUKEE 2802 is louder, the motor whistles, it heats up more, the battery does not fit at all, the charger seems iron but as a positive point It has a better Chuck, it feels powerful, 5-year warranty, it looks well manufactured. Between MILWAUKEE and Makita the power seems similar, at the moment I prefer the makita since the motor is quieter, the motor and charger hardly get hot, time will tell if the heating in the MILWAUKEE is a problem or not. It has cost me USD$185, winning the makita for USD$12 dollars less. I hope my comments contribute something positive to your purchases.
I am a professional carpenter with over 25 year experience. One thing that I have learned the hard way is always tighten your bits by hand. Do not use the motor. It saves the chuck. We all want to use the motor for speed and convenience, but that can be damaging.
It's a tough call, I think I'll always lean towards makita because I love the way they sound and the styling. I will say when metal working, i always grab my milwaukee set, when wood working I grab my makita set.
If you drive a bolt into the grain right next to a bolt you just drove, it seems to me (maybe I'm wrong), that the wood would be packed tighter from the adjacent bolt previously driven; which, could possibly affect times.
You drop bits because you're not seating the jaws of the chuck on the flat sides of the bits and holders, don't squeeze the trigger to lock bits, do it manually watching closely to line up the jaws to the flat sides of whatever you're using. This doesn't matter for round shafts, go ahead and use the trigger.
I agree, he didnt pay attention putting in bit. Also a washer would have been a good idea. Not paying attention to chuck still turning as well. I could go on but...
Great tests! I bought the Makita mostly due to price and as a DIYer, don’t always need the greatest speed. Milwaukee tools are definitely great trades tools worth buying. 👍
Why do you tighten the Makita chuck, then back out off a click or two? Your loosening it! I just went through my XPH07 manual, and you only tighten it. Try the test again without loosening the Makita Chuck everytime... No wonder you were stripping the bit.
Where are you getting that clicking the chuck back one click locks the chuck? I have that drill and a lower line drill driver and no where in either instruction manual does it say to do that.
Both brands are fantastic. Id go with the brand that has. the most tools you are able to buy that is around you. But id reach for the Makita before the Milwaukee
Doesn't matter what you use as long as the batteries are equal. If you have to use a higher power battery to beat the other drill, then the one with the extra power is inferior.
How does that make any sense? That's like two people arm wrestling but the stronger person has to starve themself so that they're equal to each other. It would be a different matter if you had to go to aftermarket parts to get the extra power but as long as it's a factory battery, you should use the strongest to compare which one is the strongest.
I have both actually, started with all Makita tools and switched to Milwaukee just because I wanted to. Makita is a great brand but I haven't regretted the switch yet. Also, the chuck on my Makita was clicking and messing up just like it was in this video until I adjusted the screw inside the chuck. Afterwards the chuck never acted funny again, no clicking when tightening or coming loose during operation. Anyway, nice video. Liked and subbed 🤙
Idk we have 4 Milwaukee drills in our shop. Two are dead, one drops round drill bits intermittently, and the one that "works" is the old brushed one with no guts. The other three aren't even 3yrs old.
I thank you Tinker :) this fall I plan on doing tool tests again. This is the first summer I actually got to enjoy summer and not have to work mandatory overtime at work
Thanks for the review, I own Makita and Bosch both line of power tools right now, used to own Bosch and Milwaukee but after my Gen2 impact driver was died then swap to Makita line. Personally the I saw the Makita chuck died with another IG users and same as Milwaukee, but I never had any issue with Bosch chuck for past 5 years time, I know for the Bosch drill speed may behind Makita and Milwaukee, but it still good for my trade with Bosch. I just love the feeling for Makita and does job so well. For the weight distribute of Milwaukee is not suit for me, it seems like Milwaukee put lot of weight in the front and battery. This Makita drill was over 6 years old did good job even compare with the latest Milwaukee drill.
@@ManCaverTools however makita 40v is released don't know what strategy in the future of the company. Probably makita will get ride of 18v x 2 system and keep 18v and 40v both line together?
Milwaukee does make good tools. I'm a second generation plumber and they make a lot of great plumbing tools. My dad and a few other guys have milwaukee fuel drills and one of them the forward and reverse selector doesn't activate unless you pull the battery out and put it back in. The other drill will just stop working all together randomly and then start working again. Every brand has there drawbacks I've just seen that first hand. Never had any issues with my makita stuff but every guy is loyal to their brand 👍
If it stops, it fails. Watch the video close. He is biding the paddle bit by pushing it forward, or you don't know how to keep a drill straight one, take your pic? He also placed the Milwaukee paddle bit, next to a hole, where the Milwaukee did not have to cut through part of the side. Do you reckon that matters at all? Go to the cement test. He cleans the dust out of the Milwaukee at 8 sec, 18 sec, 26 sec, 33 sec, 38 sec, the reason why, if anyone has ever drilled concrete, then you know you have to dump the dust out, or it will cut your drilling power down to hardly nothing. He dumps the makita after 32 sec, after it sits there and does nothing, while the whole time is losing cutting power is lost, because he does not dump the dust at all. Only when it comes to a stand still, does he dump it. Then, he is steadily pushing the drill forward. Look at the concrete hole. He push the drill bit forward so much, that the hole is wobbled out. He was smart enough not to wipe the dust off the block, like he did the board, so you couldent see just how much of a wobbled out hole he made, because the bit was not kept straight. Even though he did not wipe the block, you can still see how bad the hole is wobbled out. I don't like dishonest reviewers like you. What did you expect, that Milwaukee would see this and send you some free crap? Now, you know what drills I own? I own a Milwaukee 18v hammer drill, such as the one you are using, and the 18v 3/4 Milwaukee impact wrench, that I use for lug nuts and lag bolts. I don't even own a Makita drill. I just hate dishonest reviewers. If you want to compare apples to apples. Try comparing the Milwaukee 1200 in. lbs of torque, to the makita 1,250 in.lbs of Torque. Not 1200 verses 1025. That's like a car that can do 200mph verses one that can do 150, and say. Hmm, I wonder which one will win.
I got that Makita Hammer Drill and it is an awesome tool. Had it for about 2 years and no problems for me at all. By the way GREAT VIDEO!! #MANCAVERTOOLS
Thank you for the video, there is one thing that I would like to know that you didn't probably mention, when you was running this tests, which one showed up the best vibration.
I thank you sir. when it comes to small hammer drills, they all have major vibration. which is why SDS is better if you making a ton of holes through concrete
dude hand drills have come soooooo far from where they started. just remember a time when you would get one 1/2 inch hole done and boom the battery was dead and basically on fire and having a corded drill was almost required for any project out from home owner work like hanging a picture
@@ManCaverTools i use mikita its my tool line and i never turn my chuck back and i also never lose bits idk it just seems like one of those things where the proper way is not really the best way maybe im wrong but then again i never worn out a 1/4-1/2 bit before either
Remember......the Makita is AT LEAST 5 years older than the Milwaukee.....5byears older technology, electronics.....The Milwaukee is already 2 years old.
The milwaukee 2704 is 6 years old but is much poweful than the latest milwaukee 2804 when it comes to concrete. The 2804 only have the torque but not the hammering power due to its reduce size
If you look closely everytime he tightens the makitas chuck he turns it the other way which unlocks the chuck thats why the bits keep coming loose its user error
Joshua Helms its common knowledge for chucks to lock it by turning it back one to engage the positive stop mechanism; dewalt and milwaukee has that knowledge in their manuals
@@dvxAznxvb i just checked my manuals on several different drills makita and dewalt and they say nothing about tightening then turning it back to lock. What they say is counterclockwise to loosen and clockwise to tighten. Dewalt even says turn clockwise till you hear a few clicks to tighten. I've been using drills and other tools for over 25 years I think I know how to tighten a drill chuck. If you watch him with the makita he tightens then turns it the opposite direction which unlocks it i have the same model makita and I did what he did and the bits come loose but when I only tighten it the bits stay in.
Joshua Helms interesting find i have dcd777,791 and 996 and all the chucks have a stop when one click to lock the bit then it releases if i continue; it doesn’t release the teeth when turning it anti clockwise one stop As i believe the premise is that the motor controls the teeth but since it has a ratcheting function you have to lock the teeth to prevent it from loosing which isn’t a big deal for most applications but if you have to use reverse immediately such as a reverse thread or larger bits this is where i noticed you have to lock it instead of relying on the clamping force of the teeth to prevent the bit from moving
@@dvxAznxvb thats strange I tried my 995 and 790 dewalt and my makita xph07z and xfd11zb and if you tighten it till it stops and turn it back counterclockwise the bits will come loose under heavy load but if you tighten it till it stops and leave it their fine.
clearly Milwaukee winning here. It has faster times on most of the tests. If this was multiplied by multiple screws and per hour and per day you're using it then you can decide which one is going to give you the best performance over the long haul. It took all but 20min to break a chuck on the makita whether or not he was loading the bits in correctly or not.
just picked up the same model from my local home depot tool rental lol only went out twice and it came with 2 5amp and a nice charger. paid 100 bucks with a hard case the chuck gave you a hard time but coming from milwakee I have to say I'm impressed. yeah it might be a sec or 2 faster or slower but man it was 20 degrees cooler than the milwakee. in my opinion that's called efficiency. a nice cool motor will last alot longer!
I had a lot of makita,s ,now have 484 and 486 but the Chuck is always a problem I bought an more expensive Chuck for the 484. Sometimes when they get hot the drill or bit get stuck in it and you need a lot of straight to get them out and it never sounds good when you do that It sounds that you break something but it never happens.
Did yiu lock the chuck on the makita? Found out about the "chucklock" feature when i bought my ddf484. After tightening the bit untighten it by 1 click in the opposite directionto lock the bit in. Stay safe
Get ur makita chuck serviced mine never does that and it easily equals the Gen 3 on that concrete test ive used the same size bit clear the holes more..like the video 📹 👌
My xph14 chuck does that when you tighten and it slips like it’s breaking. I got it 2 days ago and the first time I ever tightened it, it did that! Should I return it?
@@ManCaverTools Thank you. I did end up returning and bought the 40v XGT hammer drill/impact driver kit and have been loving it ever since. I haven’t touched my Milwaukee hammer drill and impact driver for a month now.
Build quality are equally excellent, same plastics, great designs, but Milwaukee has the edge in motor and battery design, however, Milwaukee tend to use fragile ribbon/small cables inside, the Makitas have solid wiring. There is very little to go wrong with Makitas, just takes the edge in Robustness I would say, so power or Longevity?
But what's actually a better design, the F1 race motor that needs to be rebuilt after every race, or the diesel that clears a Million miles before it's first. Our shop has 4 Milwaukee drills, two run, one is an old brushed design that has no guts and the other let's bits go randomly while you're drilling
@@jonathangarzon2798 I have had hundreds of these tools apart, Milwaukee and Makita only have slight quality variations, you get a FUEL and you can bet its going to last a long time, don't touch the none-fuel however. Get Fuel and you will wont go far wrong, it might even last longer than most Makitas.
@@suzesiviter6083 Im not sure what you do for a living but Im a welder/fabricator so tools that might last a moderate amount of time in a regular construction site just don't make it. Drilling through metal takes a higher toll on tools and the metal particulates in the air, and constant high frequency EMF shorten lifespan of any electronics. The only tools that I can say have proper longevity are the recip saw and bandsaw from Milwaukee. And quality is definitely not close. The battery engagement alone is slop on Milwaukee (though not as bad as DeWalt)
@@jonathangarzon2798 A lot of people complain about battery slop yet few have had any real battery connection problems,, have you? they use the same knife contacts as Makita. Are you using fuel versions? Check out Ave channel with tear downs, I am not convinced Makita is better quality and if I were doing drilling all day, I would be buying an Hilti not one of these class of drills. As for metal dust, Milwaukee fuels are fully sealed electronics, potted, you could even throw one of these in a bucket of water or oil and they would still work, plus the gears are usually the properly machined parts not the sintered variety in the places that matter.
@@suzesiviter6083 yeah we have two Milwaukee batteries that have to be taken out and re seated during drilling due to bad contacts and since they aren't corroded it's gotta be a mechanical issue. Battery slop transfers undue torsion on the contacts shortening life. This is the problem with brand fanboys though never can admit anything is wrong until they do, and then it's "good enough". Fuck brands I get the tool grade according to use, and tool according to best quality.
I drove lag bolts like this for over two years straight with an old blue 18v Ryobi 1/2 drill 15 years ago. Im not really impressed by this test lol. And yes I still have that old Ryobi it still works fine but needs batteries.
As I said, I own that Model of Makita. This was one of your better ‘Versus’ videos. Having said that, and as Eryn Brady said, regarding the chuck, the one on your drill didn’t ‘sound’ right, or act right? And once a Chuck has slipped twice or more under that pressure, the jaws will lose some ability to hold onto the bit. Love your channel and videos dude, but please try fully tightening the chuck, and then leave it. Don’t turn it back a click! Trust me! I’m surprised the Gen 3 Milwaukee didn’t do better. It is a powerful drill. I tried it but just don’t care for it. And the ‘smell’ you mention Dave, I believe is a characteristic of that drill. Mine always has a slight warm oil smell? Hard to describe. I would get Makita to warranty that chuck. Their repair facility in NJ does a great job. Just FYI. Thanks
I thank you for your reply. I just think I need to put a new chuck on it. and I think the smell is the natural smell from the makita motor. and I thank you for viewing George
Man Caver Tools, Dave I just saw George’s comment directed towards the chuck. Why are you being so obstinate regarding tightening the chuck correctly? You are the first person I’ve seen rotate the chuck counterclockwise after fully tightening it clockwise. You may have inadvertently damaged the Makita Drill’s chuck jaws by running it hard without having it fully locked into place. Tighten the chuck fully clockwise until you hear the ratcheting sound, then continue to turn clockwise until you can’t turn it any more! Don’t turn counterclockwise after fully tightening!!
I own both drills. The Milwaukee is better. Nobody uses the non high output batteries anymore. He needs to redo the test with even a smaller high output battery.
Yes amazing power in both of these but from the sound of them the makita sounds a little weaker at the end of the drive. Could just be me but it sounded like it bogged down more than the Milwaukee
Dave, if you’re clicking the Milwaukee’s chuck backwards to lock that actually unlocks the chuck. Twist clockwise until it clicks into the detent. Don’t go backwards or counterclockwise for the final twist. I even went into the manual, which directs to turn until you hear a ratcheting sound and it can not be turned further! Who told you to do that? Whoever it was they’re a ding dong head, just trying to make you look bad. With regards to the Makita I’m not sure, but it seems strange that you need to do the one click back deal here as well.... I think you’re actually disengaging the clutch detent when you do that. In fact that may have been your issue when the bit was stripped. The chuck came loose 4 times during the concrete test...Next time try tightening the chuck as tight as you can in the clockwise position...DON’T TURN CLOCKWISE FOR THE FINAL TIGHTENING.
@@ManCaverTools, no it doesn’t...it loosens the chuck. Where did you get this information from? Can you point to a section of a manual? I really believe that’s why you had chuck strip issues with the Makita. After posting this comment to you I read quite a few other comments that say the same thing.
i have the exact makita..and you are an i.diot. Never had an issue with it so far like you. WHO TEACHED YOU TO LOCK CHUCK LIKE THAT?. in europe we don't do it that way
It seems to be a point of contention regarding the chuck locking features of drills. I have to concur with Joshua Helms, and I have tried the ‘turning the chick back one click, ‘ and it almost always leads to loss of bits. A lot of modern drills seem to have poor QC with regards to keyless chucks. Milwaukee is sometimes poor, and DeWalt is ‘ famous’ for wobbly chucks, and the horrendous braking upon release of the trigger. I have noticed DeWalt seems to have tried to improve on this in recent drills, but still hit and miss. I own this Model of Makita, and it is one of the better chucks out there. It boils down to the user checking the tightness of the Chuck after every few holes drilled, or fasteners run, etc.
I thank you for your feedback George. the tension I put on the these chucks with the hardcore tasks maybe to much for the chucks. normally a impact driver would be used for those lags.
@@chriscleave2173 its not an opinion idiot. Its been tested and the results are there. Dewalt makes the best drill . Grinders. And saws (cordless! Also the sander and multitool is best on cordless market. Milwaukee has the best impact driver. Wrenches. Plumbing tools. Makita is just good on corded
I prefer this channel for reviews on hammer drills, but on impact wrench/driver I preder "torque test channel" he has a dyno for accurately measuring torque.... Just sharing😊
Ryobi background on your phone! I knew you were switching sides behind my back! You were the chosen one! It was said that you would destroy all obsolete tools, not join them! To bring balance to the utilitariate, not leave it in darkness! (You): I HATE MAKITA AND I HATE YOU! I DESPISE THAT IS GREAT AND HONOR FOOLS' WORK! I TAKE PLEASURE IN CARPENTERS PAIN! (Me): IT'S OVER MAN CAVE TOOLS! YOU ARE CONDEMNED TO BURNING IN TH-cam HELL AKA MUSTAFAR. 😢
At the 20:00 mark when going through the drill test, what's the make and model of that speed bit please? Thanks keep up the good work enjoy your videos
as far as i know makita in 2 gear stops when there is to mutch stress to keep the gears safe while milwaukee doesnot do that the last milwaukee i used broke easely while i had to get a nother drill i got a makita and it did better than milwaukee i took the milwaukee apart and the gears were broken inside now i only use Makita and Dewalt 1 of the makita is from 2016 the other is from 2019 the Dewalt is from 2006 the milwaukee was from 2016 and i have a small makita 10,8v from 2011 DF330D that has been handy in narrow spaces i like these tools :)
Do all makitas sound like that? My ridgid brushless drill started sounding similar to the makita right before it started releasing smoke, and you said the makita smelled like burning.
Brother 1...u gotta tighten up ur bits by hand or u will mess up ur chuck...unless ur rich and don't give a hoot than u can tighten them up with ur teeth if u like...2...when u tighten the chuck u r loosening it up by going backwards.....other than that good video.
@@ManCaverTools already have 10.8v makitas ( wish they had more tools on that platform) and 18v milwaukees , never had anything like it, only beaten by Hilti big plugged in tools.. did a 130mm hole, 400mm deep in reinforced concrete just with the18v Milwaukee... took quite a few hours, and it was burning hot, and think 5 or 6 battery changes... but it did it ;)
Two great brands not sure about US prices but Milwaukee can be expensive here in Europe. Makita are so reliable though 1-2 best overall powertool brands.
I would like to see a video on the chucks and their locking mechanisms and bring some documentation to back it up since it seems to be a highly contentious topic.
Great vid! Cheers from Argentina. Im switching from my old ni-cd 18v Daewoo to this 2804 Milwaukee. I think that i will be very impressed! Do you think that a high output battery would make a significant difference?
Makita drill is powerful, and for the price, it's a great deal. Right now, Home Depot has an offer for a $250 Makita drill and Impact and $400 + free tool for the Milwaukee same drill and Impact.
I Have that one and had other makita drills and the chucks have always lossened up, had it replaced and a month later same. Three years ago got another makita set hoping they fixed the chuck issue -two weeks later bits start falling out. The most recent compact version and the middle one are fine at one year.
Personally they are very similar.. both are better than dewalt.. most of my electric tools are Makita.. had old Makita battery tool didn't last too long .. now have some Milwaukee battery tools they are still going strong after 4 years of abuse...its 6 of one half a dozen of the other depends what type of tool your using
That is the reason I jumped ship from Makita to Milwaukee. That bloody Chuck man! I went through 3 drills in a year. The Chuck got so locked up it couldn’t be repaired. Sometimes couldn’t even get the bit out the drill with out using grips on it. Constantly stripping drill bit ends. So so frustrating and now I’m so glad I moved to Milwaukee such a beast for such a small drill. Buddy it’s the Chuck not u
My brushless Makita is an absolute pile. (Makita XFD12Z 18V LXT Lithium-Ion Brushless Cordless 1/2" Driver-Drill) It has a horrible variable speed trigger that is hard to control and it shuts down way before the battery is discharged. The first thing to break was the chuck so I installed a Jacobs all metal one, then the clutch got weak and now under heavy torque it will randomly stop and make the grinding noise until I shift it back and forth a few times. It also abruptly shuts down when driving three inch deck screws. My 14 year old white Makita may be a little slower, but it kicks the new ones ass because it doesn't fail me. I'll probably switch to Milwaukie as I have yet to see one fail as quick as the Makita.
You're welcome and the new Xph14 is 18volt and a direct replacement for the old Xph07. I also can't wait for 40volt Makita tools either but it seems like we're last to get them in the US. Keep up the good work.
I do think not using the correct battery does not match real life when I use high output. I get it, but I would think a fuel owner isn't picking their xc, I believe people will use their best battery
Nice Dave! The chucks on the Makita are getting worst and worst.... this why I only use them for certain tool... Man you need to test the metabo SB 18 LTX-3 BL Q I
Jose Morales, no they aren’t! I’m into the Milwaukee M12/M18 platform, but I know the quality Makita puts into it’s tools. Their chucks aren’t getting worse. It’s “worse” not “worst” for edification purposes. They’ve always sourced and used excellent chucks, e.g. Jacobs. The issue is with the user. Dave isn’t tightening the chuck properly on the drills, as he’s tightening clockwise, then going backwards or counterclockwise a turn, thereby loosening the chuck back up. I’m surprised more drills haven’t failed, by having their chuck jaws stripped.
Hi love the videos, the makita was closer to the milwaukee than i thought it would be! Just a wee point to add about the makita on the irwin wood bit test, if you hold the trigger in any amount even just the slightest bit and the chuck cant turn then it seems to have a function that turns off the power to the drill! The trigger needs to be released and pressed again, Im thinking its a saftey feature so that it wont burn out the motor as is not turning! Id say the extra torque on the gen3 is what kept it going! I’ve used both drills and i find the milwaukee feels heavier while using but is definitely stronger! Wondering when makita are gonna upgrade their hammer drill/driver! Also i had never heard of turning the chuck back one click before, i always just tighten it up and it has never loosened! If you had time to do a quick test off camera by tightening it up full and maybe repeat the concrete test just to see if it does any better, it was agonising to watch it keep falling out of the drill!! If its still doing it get on that warranty! Very good video all the same and sure it made for a good comment section! Keep up the good work!!
Why the hell do people all of a sudden think 1 click back is the proper way. This is COMPLETELY FALSE. “I’m having problems with this chuck...” yea, no shit. Don’t believe everything you read.
Hey man, new subscriber here, Love your videos and your attitude towards all the tools you test, you seem to really love what you do and the tools and don't look to try to prove your own opinions on them, you just enjoy all the amazing stuff this technological marvels can do. Pleas keep up the good work! Have a nice day.
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Sep. 2021
I just bought the M18 MILWAUKEE 2802 and comparing it with another that I have the Brushless 1/2 Makita 18v Dhp485sye, the MILWAUKEE 2802 is louder, the motor whistles, it heats up more,
the battery does not fit at all, the charger seems iron but as a positive point It has a better Chuck, it feels powerful, 5-year warranty, it looks well manufactured.
Between MILWAUKEE and Makita the power seems similar, at the moment I prefer the makita since the motor is quieter, the motor and charger hardly get hot, time will tell if the heating in the
MILWAUKEE is a problem or not.
It has cost me USD$185, winning the makita for USD$12 dollars less.
I hope my comments contribute something positive to your purchases.
My makita 18v chargers get hot while charging
You’re losing the bit on the makita when you “lock it” that’s actually unlocking which is causing the chuck to spin loose like it is on you.
Yeah but guy, Im a dumbarse american, that dont know much about, well drills, much of anything.
I am a professional carpenter with over 25 year experience. One thing that I have learned the hard way is always tighten your bits by hand. Do not use the motor. It saves the chuck. We all want to use the motor for speed and convenience, but that can be damaging.
Totally agree...
Use the motor to snug the chuck then tighten by hand.
I do tighten them by hand. use the motor to get the clamps with the bit then tighten the rest by hand
I didn't know that could damage the chuck. Great tip.
One thing iv learned with Makita is to NOT turn it back one Klick you actually end up unlocking the Chuck
I'd definitely go makita.. actually switched from Milwaukee to makita
All i want know if hes identified what Makita's Natural smell is. .... i cant get enough of these tool war videos.
It's a tough call, I think I'll always lean towards makita because I love the way they sound and the styling. I will say when metal working, i always grab my milwaukee set, when wood working I grab my makita set.
these 2 are evenly matched but I think I did mess up the makita Chuck and io thank you for viewing Darkone
If you drive a bolt into the grain right next to a bolt you just drove, it seems to me (maybe I'm wrong), that the wood would be packed tighter from the adjacent bolt previously driven; which, could possibly affect times.
I do this all the time and the more powerful motor always prevails if It drives it in next to a hole.
Agree!!
I wanted to tell him that year ago but I didn't know how to express it in english
Makita always bosses the other brands. Glad I’m heavily invested in their 18v platform
You drop bits because you're not seating the jaws of the chuck on the flat sides of the bits and holders, don't squeeze the trigger to lock bits, do it manually watching closely to line up the jaws to the flat sides of whatever you're using.
This doesn't matter for round shafts, go ahead and use the trigger.
I broke the chuck and I know how to set it bits lol
I agree, he didnt pay attention putting in bit. Also a washer would have been a good idea. Not paying attention to chuck still turning as well. I could go on but...
Apparently you don't. It may look cool and save some time spinning the bit in but it's bad practice in more ways than one.
@Kevin Bradley Harmoning Ya that's the best way to do it. Last few turns are by hand so you can line it up perfectly.
Great tests! I bought the Makita mostly due to price and as a DIYer, don’t always need the greatest speed. Milwaukee tools are definitely great trades tools worth buying. 👍
Why do you tighten the Makita chuck, then back out off a click or two? Your loosening it! I just went through my XPH07 manual, and you only tighten it. Try the test again without loosening the Makita Chuck everytime... No wonder you were stripping the bit.
I will and I thank you Christopher
cdn.makitatools.com/apps/cms/doc/prod/XPH/a6190ac1-a92b-4296-9216-c612e6b6d385_XPH07Z_IM.pdf
Yup exactly. Someone decided to circulate this myth about untightening by one to “lock” it and it’s BS.
Yeah that’s what’s stripping the bit
@@kenshirogenjuro873 probably a Milwaukee rep started that BS 🤣
Where are you getting that clicking the chuck back one click locks the chuck? I have that drill and a lower line drill driver and no where in either instruction manual does it say to do that.
it doesn't do it for all drills. the good drill have an extra locking feature on them
Ive been using drills for years and never had the chuck drop bits I think clicking back is what was causing the problem
I’m trying to find makita 40v but I couldn’t! Sells so fast! It’s king on construction field!great video! CONGRATS!😐
I do need to get the 40v Makita line
you are a regular user so which one would you recommend for durability and efficiency i am not a usa resident
Both brands are fantastic. Id go with the brand that has. the most tools you are able to buy that is around you. But id reach for the Makita before the Milwaukee
Doesn't matter what you use as long as the batteries are equal. If you have to use a higher power battery to beat the other drill, then the one with the extra power is inferior.
I try to keep it as even as I can. some brands don't have the same AH batteries
How does that make any sense? That's like two people arm wrestling but the stronger person has to starve themself so that they're equal to each other. It would be a different matter if you had to go to aftermarket parts to get the extra power but as long as it's a factory battery, you should use the strongest to compare which one is the strongest.
The Milwaukee sounds like a jet engine in reverse. Awesome
I have both actually, started with all Makita tools and switched to Milwaukee just because I wanted to. Makita is a great brand but I haven't regretted the switch yet. Also, the chuck on my Makita was clicking and messing up just like it was in this video until I adjusted the screw inside the chuck. Afterwards the chuck never acted funny again, no clicking when tightening or coming loose during operation. Anyway, nice video. Liked and subbed 🤙
cant go wrong with Milwaukee now. I thank you for viewing Jamey
How did you adjust the screw inside? You just tightened it or what?
Idk we have 4 Milwaukee drills in our shop. Two are dead, one drops round drill bits intermittently, and the one that "works" is the old brushed one with no guts.
The other three aren't even 3yrs old.
Old one but a good one. Nice work man!
I thank you Tinker :) this fall I plan on doing tool tests again. This is the first summer I actually got to enjoy summer and not have to work mandatory overtime at work
@@ManCaverTools Good for you man! I know the feeling of work being crazy. Glad you got to enjoy summer!
Thanks for the review, I own Makita and Bosch both line of power tools right now, used to own Bosch and Milwaukee but after my Gen2 impact driver was died then swap to Makita line. Personally the I saw the Makita chuck died with another IG users and same as Milwaukee, but I never had any issue with Bosch chuck for past 5 years time, I know for the Bosch drill speed may behind Makita and Milwaukee, but it still good for my trade with Bosch. I just love the feeling for Makita and does job so well. For the weight distribute of Milwaukee is not suit for me, it seems like Milwaukee put lot of weight in the front and battery. This Makita drill was over 6 years old did good job even compare with the latest Milwaukee drill.
I do think it is time for Makita to upgrade this tool
@@ManCaverTools however makita 40v is released don't know what strategy in the future of the company. Probably makita will get ride of 18v x 2 system and keep 18v and 40v both line together?
why do you keep untwisting the chuck? you're unlocking it
if you click back 1 it locks it. this does not work with all chucks
I have never had the chuck come loose on my xph07. The m18s I use at work do come loose and freeze also.
I push these tools through the extreme tests and I thank you for viewing Darren
Neither have I. I love my xph07
Milwaukee tools never let me down in any conditions snow rain nothing stops them
Milwaukee does make good tools. I'm a second generation plumber and they make a lot of great plumbing tools. My dad and a few other guys have milwaukee fuel drills and one of them the forward and reverse selector doesn't activate unless you pull the battery out and put it back in. The other drill will just stop working all together randomly and then start working again. Every brand has there drawbacks I've just seen that first hand. Never had any issues with my makita stuff but every guy is loyal to their brand 👍
Milwaukee never let me down either
He was sniffing that drill , like a electrician in a porta potty
My dad does the same, gotta make sure the drill is clamping the bit properly or itll just spin, kinda obvious really.
If it stops, it fails. Watch the video close. He is biding the paddle bit by pushing it forward, or you don't know how to keep a drill straight one, take your pic? He also placed the Milwaukee paddle bit, next to a hole, where the Milwaukee did not have to cut through part of the side. Do you reckon that matters at all? Go to the cement test. He cleans the dust out of the Milwaukee at 8 sec, 18 sec, 26 sec, 33 sec, 38 sec, the reason why, if anyone has ever drilled concrete, then you know you have to dump the dust out, or it will cut your drilling power down to hardly nothing. He dumps the makita after 32 sec, after it sits there and does nothing, while the whole time is losing cutting power is lost, because he does not dump the dust at all. Only when it comes to a stand still, does he dump it. Then, he is steadily pushing the drill forward. Look at the concrete hole. He push the drill bit forward so much, that the hole is wobbled out. He was smart enough not to wipe the dust off the block, like he did the board, so you couldent see just how much of a wobbled out hole he made, because the bit was not kept straight. Even though he did not wipe the block, you can still see how bad the hole is wobbled out. I don't like dishonest reviewers like you. What did you expect, that Milwaukee would see this and send you some free crap? Now, you know what drills I own? I own a Milwaukee 18v hammer drill, such as the one you are using, and the 18v 3/4 Milwaukee impact wrench, that I use for lug nuts and lag bolts. I don't even own a Makita drill. I just hate dishonest reviewers. If you want to compare apples to apples. Try comparing the Milwaukee 1200 in. lbs of torque, to the makita 1,250 in.lbs of Torque. Not 1200 verses 1025. That's like a car that can do 200mph verses one that can do 150, and say. Hmm, I wonder which one will win.
Milwaukee is where its at.💪🏾💎
Yes sir and I thank you for viewing Alpha
Nah I switched from Milwaukee to Makita and never looking back
@@waterloo123100 Your crazy bro
@@johngardeajr.1425 Not as crazy as the Milwaukee fanboy train
Team MILWAUKEE!!!!!!!
I got that Makita Hammer Drill and it is an awesome tool. Had it for about 2 years and no problems for me at all.
By the way GREAT VIDEO!! #MANCAVERTOOLS
I thank you very much Brian
Thank you for the video, there is one thing that I would like to know that you didn't probably mention, when you was running this tests, which one showed up the best vibration.
By the way I loved the video and I just subscribed!
I thank you sir. when it comes to small hammer drills, they all have major vibration. which is why SDS is better if you making a ton of holes through concrete
Great video demonstration. What model is the Milwaukee?
dude hand drills have come soooooo far from where they started. just remember a time when you would get one 1/2 inch hole done and boom the battery was dead and basically on fire and having a corded drill was almost required for any project out from home owner work like hanging a picture
they are extremely powerful now. I thank you for viewing Drake
Great tests very compliment for your video. How much Nm have those drills?
jesus, learn to tighten the drill and use is correctly. it's pain to watch this sloppiness..
clearly marketing bs.
have you tried to click back your chuck? if you havent give it a shot. it doesn't work with all drill
@@ManCaverTools i use mikita its my tool line and i never turn my chuck back and i also never lose bits
idk it just seems like one of those things where the proper way is not really the best way maybe im wrong but then again i never worn out a 1/4-1/2 bit before either
Love these test. Hard to find such reviews where stress and smell test is part of the deal.
Remember......the Makita is AT LEAST 5 years older than the Milwaukee.....5byears older technology, electronics.....The Milwaukee is already 2 years old.
Yes it is. I think it is time for them to upgrade
Is that the latest model?
Still thinking of buying makita still choosing
@@user-tu7rr1zg4b yes it is however theyve got a new drill coming out soon hope this helps
The milwaukee 2704 is 6 years old but is much poweful than the latest milwaukee 2804 when it comes to concrete. The 2804 only have the torque but not the hammering power due to its reduce size
The Makita has a Yukiwa chuck which should be the best in the market, this one must be damaged.
If you look closely everytime he tightens the makitas chuck he turns it the other way which unlocks the chuck thats why the bits keep coming loose its user error
Joshua Helms its common knowledge for chucks to lock it by turning it back one to engage the positive stop mechanism; dewalt and milwaukee has that knowledge in their manuals
@@dvxAznxvb i just checked my manuals on several different drills makita and dewalt and they say nothing about tightening then turning it back to lock. What they say is counterclockwise to loosen and clockwise to tighten. Dewalt even says turn clockwise till you hear a few clicks to tighten. I've been using drills and other tools for over 25 years I think I know how to tighten a drill chuck. If you watch him with the makita he tightens then turns it the opposite direction which unlocks it i have the same model makita and I did what he did and the bits come loose but when I only tighten it the bits stay in.
Joshua Helms interesting find i have dcd777,791 and 996 and all the chucks have a stop when one click to lock the bit then it releases if i continue; it doesn’t release the teeth when turning it anti clockwise one stop
As i believe the premise is that the motor controls the teeth but since it has a ratcheting function you have to lock the teeth to prevent it from loosing which isn’t a big deal for most applications but if you have to use reverse immediately such as a reverse thread or larger bits this is where i noticed you have to lock it instead of relying on the clamping force of the teeth to prevent the bit from moving
@@dvxAznxvb thats strange I tried my 995 and 790 dewalt and my makita xph07z and xfd11zb and if you tighten it till it stops and turn it back counterclockwise the bits will come loose under heavy load but if you tighten it till it stops and leave it their fine.
Xph07... Was xph14 released at time of filming? It is the new improved model
clearly Milwaukee winning here. It has faster times on most of the tests. If this was multiplied by multiple screws and per hour and per day you're using it then you can decide which one is going to give you the best performance over the long haul. It took all but 20min to break a chuck on the makita whether or not he was loading the bits in correctly or not.
I have both. Bought Makita cause that’s my battery platform. Got the Milwaukee as a gift. Makita has held up better
just picked up the same model from my local home depot tool rental lol only went out twice and it came with 2 5amp and a nice charger. paid 100 bucks with a hard case the chuck gave you a hard time but coming from milwakee I have to say I'm impressed. yeah it might be a sec or 2 faster or slower but man it was 20 degrees cooler than the milwakee. in my opinion that's called efficiency. a nice cool motor will last alot longer!
I agree with you on that, that is why temperatures are important as well
I had a lot of makita,s ,now have 484 and 486 but the Chuck is always a problem
I bought an more expensive Chuck for the 484.
Sometimes when they get hot the drill or bit get stuck in it and you need a lot of straight to get them out and it never sounds good when you do that
It sounds that you break something but it never happens.
Did yiu lock the chuck on the makita? Found out about the "chucklock" feature when i bought my ddf484. After tightening the bit untighten it by 1 click in the opposite directionto lock the bit in. Stay safe
Did it do it?
Get ur makita chuck serviced mine never does that and it easily equals the Gen 3 on that concrete test ive used the same size bit clear the holes more..like the video 📹 👌
I plan too and thank No one
no one special, it will not! The Milwaukee Gen 3 Fuel Hammer Drill is more powerful and has more torque than the Makita drill, serviced or not. lol!
Wow just really suprised those hammer drills drove in that 10 inch lag really impressive
I thought it was crazy as well
My xph14 chuck does that when you tighten and it slips like it’s breaking. I got it 2 days ago and the first time I ever tightened it, it did that! Should I return it?
Makita needs to work on their chuck. if you can return it I would
@@ManCaverTools Thank you. I did end up returning and bought the 40v XGT hammer drill/impact driver kit and have been loving it ever since. I haven’t touched my Milwaukee hammer drill and impact driver for a month now.
do you ever read the instruction book for the drill
Build quality are equally excellent, same plastics, great designs, but Milwaukee has the edge in motor and battery design, however, Milwaukee tend to use fragile ribbon/small cables inside, the Makitas have solid wiring.
There is very little to go wrong with Makitas, just takes the edge in Robustness I would say, so power or Longevity?
But what's actually a better design, the F1 race motor that needs to be rebuilt after every race, or the diesel that clears a Million miles before it's first.
Our shop has 4 Milwaukee drills, two run, one is an old brushed design that has no guts and the other let's bits go randomly while you're drilling
@@jonathangarzon2798 I have had hundreds of these tools apart, Milwaukee and Makita only have slight quality variations, you get a FUEL and you can bet its going to last a long time, don't touch the none-fuel however.
Get Fuel and you will wont go far wrong, it might even last longer than most Makitas.
@@suzesiviter6083 Im not sure what you do for a living but Im a welder/fabricator so tools that might last a moderate amount of time in a regular construction site just don't make it.
Drilling through metal takes a higher toll on tools and the metal particulates in the air, and constant high frequency EMF shorten lifespan of any electronics.
The only tools that I can say have proper longevity are the recip saw and bandsaw from Milwaukee.
And quality is definitely not close. The battery engagement alone is slop on Milwaukee (though not as bad as DeWalt)
@@jonathangarzon2798 A lot of people complain about battery slop yet few have had any real battery connection problems,, have you? they use the same knife contacts as Makita.
Are you using fuel versions?
Check out Ave channel with tear downs, I am not convinced Makita is better quality and if I were doing drilling all day, I would be buying an Hilti not one of these class of drills.
As for metal dust, Milwaukee fuels are fully sealed electronics, potted, you could even throw one of these in a bucket of water or oil and they would still work, plus the gears are usually the properly machined parts not the sintered variety in the places that matter.
@@suzesiviter6083 yeah we have two Milwaukee batteries that have to be taken out and re seated during drilling due to bad contacts and since they aren't corroded it's gotta be a mechanical issue.
Battery slop transfers undue torsion on the contacts shortening life. This is the problem with brand fanboys though never can admit anything is wrong until they do, and then it's "good enough".
Fuck brands I get the tool grade according to use, and tool according to best quality.
I drove lag bolts like this for over two years straight with an old blue 18v Ryobi 1/2 drill 15 years ago. Im not really impressed by this test lol. And yes I still have that old Ryobi it still works fine but needs batteries.
Very good and I thank you for viewing Gary
As I said, I own that Model of Makita. This was one of your better ‘Versus’ videos. Having said that, and as Eryn Brady said, regarding the chuck, the one on your drill didn’t ‘sound’ right, or act right? And once a Chuck has slipped twice or more under that pressure, the jaws will lose some ability to hold onto the bit. Love your channel and videos dude, but please try fully tightening the chuck, and then leave it. Don’t turn it back a click! Trust me! I’m surprised the Gen 3 Milwaukee didn’t do better. It is a powerful drill. I tried it but just don’t care for it. And the ‘smell’ you mention Dave, I believe is a characteristic of that drill. Mine always has a slight warm oil smell? Hard to describe. I would get Makita to warranty that chuck. Their repair facility in NJ does a great job. Just FYI. Thanks
I thank you for your reply. I just think I need to put a new chuck on it. and I think the smell is the natural smell from the makita motor. and I thank you for viewing George
Man Caver Tools, Dave I just saw George’s comment directed towards the chuck. Why are you being so obstinate regarding tightening the chuck correctly? You are the first person I’ve seen rotate the chuck counterclockwise after fully tightening it clockwise. You may have inadvertently damaged the Makita Drill’s chuck jaws by running it hard without having it fully locked into place.
Tighten the chuck fully clockwise until you hear the ratcheting sound, then continue to turn clockwise until you can’t turn it any more! Don’t turn counterclockwise after fully tightening!!
I own both drills. The Milwaukee is better. Nobody uses the non high output batteries anymore. He needs to redo the test with even a smaller high output battery.
Yes amazing power in both of these but from the sound of them the makita sounds a little weaker at the end of the drive. Could just be me but it sounded like it bogged down more than the Milwaukee
I was disappointed with the chuck
The makita tools generally have less power than dewalt and milwaukee never liked makitas look like Bosch drills
Well when you are a fan it you'll hear and see anything subjective to make it better in your head
Dave, if you’re clicking the Milwaukee’s chuck backwards to lock that actually unlocks the chuck. Twist clockwise until it clicks into the detent. Don’t go backwards or counterclockwise for the final twist. I even went into the manual, which directs to turn until you hear a ratcheting sound and it can not be turned further! Who told you to do that? Whoever it was they’re a ding dong head, just trying to make you look bad.
With regards to the Makita I’m not sure, but it seems strange that you need to do the one click back deal here as well.... I think you’re actually disengaging the clutch detent when you do that. In fact that may have been your issue when the bit was stripped. The chuck came loose 4 times during the concrete test...Next time try tightening the chuck as tight as you can in the clockwise position...DON’T TURN CLOCKWISE FOR THE FINAL TIGHTENING.
if you click back once it locks it in place.
@@ManCaverTools, no it doesn’t...it loosens the chuck. Where did you get this information from? Can you point to a section of a manual?
I really believe that’s why you had chuck strip issues with the Makita.
After posting this comment to you I read quite a few other comments that say the same thing.
Marty, the makita does need to click backwards to lock the chuck. Common knowledge to makita users.
i have the exact makita..and you are an i.diot. Never had an issue with it so far like you. WHO TEACHED YOU TO LOCK CHUCK LIKE THAT?.
in europe we don't do it that way
th-cam.com/video/iWa94kDON2Q/w-d-xo.html
It seems to be a point of contention regarding the chuck locking features of drills. I have to concur with Joshua Helms, and I have tried the ‘turning the chick back one click, ‘ and it almost always leads to loss of bits. A lot of modern drills seem to have poor QC with regards to keyless chucks. Milwaukee is sometimes poor, and DeWalt is ‘ famous’ for wobbly chucks, and the horrendous braking upon release of the trigger. I have noticed DeWalt seems to have tried to improve on this in recent drills, but still hit and miss. I own this Model of Makita, and it is one of the better chucks out there. It boils down to the user checking the tightness of the Chuck after every few holes drilled, or fasteners run, etc.
I thank you for your feedback George. the tension I put on the these chucks with the hardcore tasks maybe to much for the chucks. normally a impact driver would be used for those lags.
Dewalt has the best drills in the market tho
@@miguelledezma1394 in your opinion. Top 3 in order for me goes teal, red, yellow.
@@chriscleave2173 its not an opinion idiot. Its been tested and the results are there. Dewalt makes the best drill . Grinders. And saws (cordless! Also the sander and multitool is best on cordless market.
Milwaukee has the best impact driver. Wrenches. Plumbing tools.
Makita is just good on corded
@@miguelledezma1394 idiot
So makita lost when stopped because it couldn't drag the chuck through a undersized hole? Or did i see it wrong?
the chuck failed and tore up the bit.
I prefer this channel for reviews on hammer drills, but on impact wrench/driver I preder "torque test channel" he has a dyno for accurately measuring torque.... Just sharing😊
Ryobi background on your phone! I knew you were switching sides behind my back!
You were the chosen one! It was said that you would destroy all obsolete tools, not join them! To bring balance to the utilitariate, not leave it in darkness!
(You): I HATE MAKITA AND I HATE YOU! I DESPISE THAT IS GREAT AND HONOR FOOLS' WORK! I TAKE PLEASURE IN CARPENTERS PAIN!
(Me): IT'S OVER MAN CAVE TOOLS! YOU ARE CONDEMNED TO BURNING IN TH-cam HELL AKA MUSTAFAR. 😢
I wanna see those impacts in the back organized like a rainbow or something 😂
Why didn't you use / test the makita first and the milwaukee second? And give edges to milwaukee !?
At the 20:00 mark when going through the drill test, what's the make and model of that speed bit please? Thanks keep up the good work enjoy your videos
It appears to be a IRWIN SPEEDBOR Drill Bit for Wood. Widely carried at big box hardware stores and Amazon. Cheers!
@@gordo2505 nice one thanks after some searching I guessed so, I'm in the UK and managed to pick them up at Toolstation cheers 👍👍
as far as i know makita in 2 gear stops when there is to mutch stress to keep the gears safe while milwaukee doesnot do that
the last milwaukee i used broke easely while i had to get a nother drill i got a makita and it did better than milwaukee i took the milwaukee apart and the gears were broken inside now i only use Makita and Dewalt 1 of the makita is from 2016 the other is from 2019 the Dewalt is from 2006 the milwaukee was from 2016 and i have a small makita 10,8v from 2011 DF330D that has been handy in narrow spaces i like these tools :)
what's the complete name of product milwaukee?
Do all makitas sound like that? My ridgid brushless drill started sounding similar to the makita right before it started releasing smoke, and you said the makita smelled like burning.
excellent 👌
Brother 1...u gotta tighten up ur bits by hand or u will mess up ur chuck...unless ur rich and don't give a hoot than u can tighten them up with ur teeth if u like...2...when u tighten the chuck u r loosening it up by going backwards.....other than that good video.
I do lol.
Can I use those for changing tires?
So dont really matter at all, both very good, and very good even for professional users.
they are awesome hammer drill but it all depends on what battery platform people want to get into
@@ManCaverTools already have 10.8v makitas ( wish they had more tools on that platform) and 18v milwaukees , never had anything like it, only beaten by Hilti big plugged in tools.. did a 130mm hole, 400mm deep in reinforced concrete just with the18v Milwaukee... took quite a few hours, and it was burning hot, and think 5 or 6 battery changes... but it did it ;)
Two great brands not sure about US prices but Milwaukee can be expensive here in Europe. Makita are so reliable though 1-2 best overall powertool brands.
im sorry that tools cost more over there and I thank you for viewing West
I would like to see a video on the chucks and their locking mechanisms and bring some documentation to back it up since it seems to be a highly contentious topic.
not all brands have that extra locking feature on the chuck. but ill look into it more deeply
@@ManCaverTools Makita says: th-cam.com/video/iWa94kDON2Q/w-d-xo.html
As an electrician I might go for Milwaukee because it is lighter with about same specs and they have better batteries
I do thank you so much for viewing :)
New makita tools more power now...thatas amazing
more tests will be coming up and I thank you for viewing eko
You broke the makita chuck by turning it backwards 1 click
The makita chuck releases easily with just 1 click even after a lot of tightening
it locked it in to place when I click back one on the makita
@@ManCaverTools
It doesn’t
That click unlocks it
This dude doesn't even know how to use the tools he reviews lol
@@allwoundup3574 lol i know right.b
@@ManCaverTools maybe read the instructions to the tool😂😎
Hey Dave out of all the 18v /20v hammer drills you have which one is fastest at driving a 3/16 masonry bit
I think the HILTI is the most powerful one I got
@@ManCaverTools thanks. So where would you rank milwaukee with a masonry bit
That’s the chuck breaking my man. Both are nice hammer drills. I personally don’t own either, but want the gen 3 Milwaukee
I agree with you on that. the chuck wasn't able to take the tension of the lags
Competition has caught up to Milwaukee, so Milwaukee needs to step it up for gen 4.
Hello beautiful video, I have the same problem with the chuck of my makita .. how did you solve it?
luigi from italy
I thank you for viewing :)
I have the same problem with the chuck of my makita .. how did you solve it?
I found that Makita battery electronic protection circuit its well design to prevent damage. and battery to battery not a equal.
Great vid! Cheers from Argentina. Im switching from my old ni-cd 18v Daewoo to this 2804 Milwaukee. I think that i will be very impressed! Do you think that a high output battery would make a significant difference?
the high output has a major difference with tool performance
Makita drill is powerful, and for the price, it's a great deal. Right now, Home Depot has an offer for a $250 Makita drill and Impact and $400 + free tool for the Milwaukee same drill and Impact.
Ys sir and I than you Ev
And you get 2 4.0amp batteries and free sawsaw at tsc as of now till march I believe.
Hey Dave what's the best dewalt hammer drill right now.im thinking of buying a combo set
The power Detect is the most powerful hammer drill I have tested
I Have that one and had other makita drills and the chucks have always lossened up, had it replaced and a month later same. Three years ago got another makita set hoping they fixed the chuck issue -two weeks later bits start falling out. The most recent compact version and the middle one are fine at one year.
they really need to fix it and now lol
What’s the model numbers on both?
I thought I say it in the video?
What's this milwaukee model?
Personally they are very similar.. both are better than dewalt.. most of my electric tools are Makita.. had old Makita battery tool didn't last too long .. now have some Milwaukee battery tools they are still going strong after 4 years of abuse...its 6 of one half a dozen of the other depends what type of tool your using
That is the reason I jumped ship from Makita to Milwaukee. That bloody Chuck man! I went through 3 drills in a year. The Chuck got so locked up it couldn’t be repaired. Sometimes couldn’t even get the bit out the drill with out using grips on it. Constantly stripping drill bit ends. So so frustrating and now I’m so glad I moved to Milwaukee such a beast for such a small drill.
Buddy it’s the Chuck not u
I thank you for the input Beariam :)
What are the exact model numbers?
My brushless Makita is an absolute pile. (Makita XFD12Z 18V LXT Lithium-Ion Brushless Cordless 1/2" Driver-Drill) It has a horrible variable speed trigger that is hard to control and it shuts down way before the battery is discharged. The first thing to break was the chuck so I installed a Jacobs all metal one, then the clutch got weak and now under heavy torque it will randomly stop and make the grinding noise until I shift it back and forth a few times. It also abruptly shuts down when driving three inch deck screws. My 14 year old white Makita may be a little slower, but it kicks the new ones ass because it doesn't fail me. I'll probably switch to Milwaukie as I have yet to see one fail as quick as the Makita.
Did I miss the rematch for this one...?
not yet, I want to do it against the new xph14 hammer drill that I recently got
The new flagship Xph14 better be something sweet because the Makita xph07 you have here is like 6 years old and still a heavy hitter.
I cant wait to get the 40v makita line. I thank you for viewing Clark
You're welcome and the new Xph14 is 18volt and a direct replacement for the old Xph07. I also can't wait for 40volt Makita tools either but it seems like we're last to get them in the US. Keep up the good work.
Very impressive with results of them both
I thank you for viewing D mik
I do think not using the correct battery does not match real life when I use high output. I get it, but I would think a fuel owner isn't picking their xc, I believe people will use their best battery
I wouldn't either, but not every test I do can only be using one type of battery
Nice Dave! The chucks on the Makita are getting worst and worst.... this why I only use them for certain tool... Man you need to test the metabo SB 18 LTX-3 BL Q I
I plan on getting metabolic soon and I thank you you Jose
Jose Morales, no they aren’t! I’m into the Milwaukee M12/M18 platform, but I know the quality Makita puts into it’s tools. Their chucks aren’t getting worse. It’s “worse” not “worst” for edification purposes. They’ve always sourced and used excellent chucks, e.g. Jacobs. The issue is with the user. Dave isn’t tightening the chuck properly on the drills, as he’s tightening clockwise, then going backwards or counterclockwise a turn, thereby loosening the chuck back up. I’m surprised more drills haven’t failed, by having their chuck jaws stripped.
Hi love the videos, the makita was closer to the milwaukee than i thought it would be! Just a wee point to add about the makita on the irwin wood bit test, if you hold the trigger in any amount even just the slightest bit and the chuck cant turn then it seems to have a function that turns off the power to the drill! The trigger needs to be released and pressed again, Im thinking its a saftey feature so that it wont burn out the motor as is not turning!
Id say the extra torque on the gen3 is what kept it going! I’ve used both drills and i find the milwaukee feels heavier while using but is definitely stronger!
Wondering when makita are gonna upgrade their hammer drill/driver!
Also i had never heard of turning the chuck back one click before, i always just tighten it up and it has never loosened!
If you had time to do a quick test off camera by tightening it up full and maybe repeat the concrete test just to see if it does any better, it was agonising to watch it keep falling out of the drill!!
If its still doing it get on that warranty!
Very good video all the same and sure it made for a good comment section!
Keep up the good work!!
Makita really needs to work on this chuck big time. just like Milwuakee needs to work on the collit for their fuel impact driver.
hi you have so many drills, I hope you give me at least one hehe I have a drill but it's fake and those reviews are good.. thank you!!
hope you read this even its 2022
thanks
please read my comment
haha
Do you will make video on new dewalt hammer drill flexvolt advantage have 1200 watt outs
I am trying to get that as we speak. I cant find it at any of my Home Depots and I cant find it online
Boss if you have time make video a for corded hammer drill like makita 710 watts and using wood screw for torque test. Thanks boss, God bless..
gotta start adding corded tools to this
Why the hell do people all of a sudden think 1 click back is the proper way. This is COMPLETELY FALSE. “I’m having problems with this chuck...” yea, no shit. Don’t believe everything you read.
lol, have you tired it? doesn't work for all tool brands
@@ManCaverTools you’ve been trolled. Big time.
How, makita even has official video showcasing that feature
TDI rep?
I try and keep the flats of the bits in line with the jaws of the chuck!
Yes sir and I than you Jason
The makita's chuck is just dickered, other than that, they are evenly matched.
I think I broke makita chuck
Milwaukee for speed.
Makita for quality
I agree with you on that
How much milwuakee
Milwaukee are better built 🤣🤣😆
Hey man, new subscriber here, Love your videos and your attitude towards all the tools you test, you seem to really love what you do and the tools and don't look to try to prove your own opinions on them, you just enjoy all the amazing stuff this technological marvels can do. Pleas keep up the good work! Have a nice day.
I thank you for subscribing pass