Warning: do NOT drop your caliper hanging by the rubber hose. It can cause the hose to bulge internally and the brakes to get stuck Torque specs Volvo S60 V70 2001-2009 www.volvohowto.com/volvo-s60-v70-torque-specs-specifications/ As noticed by others, the nut on the shock bolt is a big metric size, perhaps 21mm. I'm using instead a 13/16in imperial socket which is a close equivalent to 21mm - see this table qph.fs.quoracdn.net/main-qimg-b213eb4293cfbecd199220db33af59bc A complete tear down of the suspension th-cam.com/video/pxC9Ek9HhGI/w-d-xo.html Small tip: never work on your car after driving in the rain. The bolts will have water on them which will start rusting once installed back and it will cause the bolts to be very stuck the next time you want to remove them.
That c ring on the end of the axle shaft has to be hammered in the c slot in the transmission to prevent it from moving back and forth during throttle. Getting it in the transmission is the first part, the c ring going into the c slot is another. You'll know when the c ring is in the c slot when you are flushed against the wall and you cannot put your finger between the axle and transmission. The axle must be flushed against transmission wall and all the way in. I use a long Bar & Hammer the round rubber boot edges flush against the axle and do both sides on the top and both sides on the bottom and eventually the shaft will end up going all the way in with the c ring being inserted on the c slot in the transmission. To take out use a hammer again and a chisel or crowbar. If you don't than as time goes by, engine light might show on dash board as P1171 because the transmission is slipping off the axle. P1171 is for a whole host of error codes like too rich of gasoline or MAF sensor. Which in this case makes perfect sense because the transmission is slipping and not turning the fly wheel enough while more air and fuel is being used.
At least on Volvo cars, the axle end has to go easily inside the transmission and the c-clip has to lock inside the transmission easily by hand pressure on the axle. This is perfectly enough to keep the axle inside the transmission even on turbo engines. If the axle is difficult to push inside the transmission, it means either the c-clip is the wrong size - often times on aftermarket axles - or the c-clip sits slightly open on the axle - both these situations will cause the axle to get permanently stuck inside the transmission which is a problem if the axle will need to be removed again in the future. If this happens, one must leave the axle end inside the transmission, remove the dust boot, and slide the rest of the axle out from the CV joint trans side - it should slide out completely or it may have tiny metal bumps that can be grinded carefully to slide out the three bearing 'wheels' from the CV joint th-cam.com/video/DIlEIkgmS84/w-d-xo.html
@@Peppermint1 go measure the depth inside the transmission and match it to the axle shaft. You'll find out the axle ball bearing housing need to be all the way flush with the transmission wall or the c ring is not inserted. The reason why its difficult to put it by hand is the ring bounces around. Once you do get it in by hand this only means the ring has been enclosed by the teeth in the transmission but it is not in the c slot yet until the axle ball bearing housing is flushed against the wall. Only way is to force.
@@Peppermint1 also the metal of the transmission is more stronger than the axle to protect it from damage. Putting a new axle in the transmission isn't like putting a new nail into the same hole in the wall. Instead, it's a new nail into a new wall and is designed to keep it that way for future repairs. Hammer and chisel away.
Turns out since I did not hammer the axle flush with the transmission, the axle was too far out amd put pressure on the wheel bearing causing it to be pushed outwards. I now have to replace the bearing. I highly recommend hammer and a flat bar of some sort to force the axle shaft all the way in after doing it by hand until it is flushed against the wall.
Correct, the nut size on the shock bolts is metric, not sure about the actual size, but my 13/16 imperial socket fits without loose - I don't have the metric socket for that nut. In fact, there are a few imperial sizes that match the metric sizes. From this table it appears the 13/16 would correspond with 21mm but one must double check qph.fs.quoracdn.net/main-qimg-b213eb4293cfbecd199220db33af59bc
Mine is stuck like an absolute bastard. It has been 2 hours of trying everything and its not budged a bit. Im giving one hour more then getting it fucking scrapped!
You can also remove the shaft but leave the end cup that's stuck inside transmission - remove collar and detach CV boot. There are two models - on one the shaft will just slide out from the cup that goes into transmission. On the other model, you need to grind three small bumps that keep the axle inside the cup. My experience, I also got one stuck, and when it's stuck no chance because some aftermarket circlips are too large and once these get forced in there, it's metal edge that will never free again. We got stories from dealerships that were not able to remove these
I have some vibrations in my steeringwheel from 130km/h onwards. Especially when I turn my steeringwheel to the left side. Could it be because of wear in the drive axels or because of not well balanced tyres?
Thanks for this video!
It is very well explained!
What would be your recpmendation for a stripped axle bolt?
Warning: do NOT drop your caliper hanging by the rubber hose. It can cause the hose to bulge internally and the brakes to get stuck
Torque specs Volvo S60 V70 2001-2009 www.volvohowto.com/volvo-s60-v70-torque-specs-specifications/
As noticed by others, the nut on the shock bolt is a big metric size, perhaps 21mm. I'm using instead a 13/16in imperial socket which is a close equivalent to 21mm - see this table qph.fs.quoracdn.net/main-qimg-b213eb4293cfbecd199220db33af59bc
A complete tear down of the suspension th-cam.com/video/pxC9Ek9HhGI/w-d-xo.html
Small tip: never work on your car after driving in the rain. The bolts will have water on them which will start rusting once installed back and it will cause the bolts to be very stuck the next time you want to remove them.
That c ring on the end of the axle shaft has to be hammered in the c slot in the transmission to prevent it from moving back and forth during throttle. Getting it in the transmission is the first part, the c ring going into the c slot is another. You'll know when the c ring is in the c slot when you are flushed against the wall and you cannot put your finger between the axle and transmission. The axle must be flushed against transmission wall and all the way in. I use a long Bar & Hammer the round rubber boot edges flush against the axle and do both sides on the top and both sides on the bottom and eventually the shaft will end up going all the way in with the c ring being inserted on the c slot in the transmission. To take out use a hammer again and a chisel or crowbar. If you don't than as time goes by, engine light might show on dash board as P1171 because the transmission is slipping off the axle. P1171 is for a whole host of error codes like too rich of gasoline or MAF sensor. Which in this case makes perfect sense because the transmission is slipping and not turning the fly wheel enough while more air and fuel is being used.
At least on Volvo cars, the axle end has to go easily inside the transmission and the c-clip has to lock inside the transmission easily by hand pressure on the axle. This is perfectly enough to keep the axle inside the transmission even on turbo engines. If the axle is difficult to push inside the transmission, it means either the c-clip is the wrong size - often times on aftermarket axles - or the c-clip sits slightly open on the axle - both these situations will cause the axle to get permanently stuck inside the transmission which is a problem if the axle will need to be removed again in the future. If this happens, one must leave the axle end inside the transmission, remove the dust boot, and slide the rest of the axle out from the CV joint trans side - it should slide out completely or it may have tiny metal bumps that can be grinded carefully to slide out the three bearing 'wheels' from the CV joint th-cam.com/video/DIlEIkgmS84/w-d-xo.html
@@Peppermint1 go measure the depth inside the transmission and match it to the axle shaft. You'll find out the axle ball bearing housing need to be all the way flush with the transmission wall or the c ring is not inserted. The reason why its difficult to put it by hand is the ring bounces around. Once you do get it in by hand this only means the ring has been enclosed by the teeth in the transmission but it is not in the c slot yet until the axle ball bearing housing is flushed against the wall. Only way is to force.
@@Peppermint1 also the metal of the transmission is more stronger than the axle to protect it from damage. Putting a new axle in the transmission isn't like putting a new nail into the same hole in the wall. Instead, it's a new nail into a new wall and is designed to keep it that way for future repairs. Hammer and chisel away.
Turns out since I did not hammer the axle flush with the transmission, the axle was too far out amd put pressure on the wheel bearing causing it to be pushed outwards. I now have to replace the bearing. I highly recommend hammer and a flat bar of some sort to force the axle shaft all the way in after doing it by hand until it is flushed against the wall.
Nomames yo tengo un S60 2003 le intenté sacar la flecha el día de.hoy y casi rompo la transmisión y nunca salió 🤣 alguna otra forma?
I think bolt size is 18mm, but the nut size, if Iremember correctly is 19 mm ... Keep in mind that Volvo, as an european car, are metric
Correct, the nut size on the shock bolts is metric, not sure about the actual size, but my 13/16 imperial socket fits without loose - I don't have the metric socket for that nut. In fact, there are a few imperial sizes that match the metric sizes. From this table it appears the 13/16 would correspond with 21mm but one must double check qph.fs.quoracdn.net/main-qimg-b213eb4293cfbecd199220db33af59bc
Mine is stuck like an absolute bastard. It has been 2 hours of trying everything and its not budged a bit.
Im giving one hour more then getting it fucking scrapped!
You can also remove the shaft but leave the end cup that's stuck inside transmission - remove collar and detach CV boot. There are two models - on one the shaft will just slide out from the cup that goes into transmission. On the other model, you need to grind three small bumps that keep the axle inside the cup. My experience, I also got one stuck, and when it's stuck no chance because some aftermarket circlips are too large and once these get forced in there, it's metal edge that will never free again. We got stories from dealerships that were not able to remove these
I have some vibrations in my steeringwheel from 130km/h onwards. Especially when I turn my steeringwheel to the left side.
Could it be because of wear in the drive axels or because of not well balanced tyres?
Si, es 5u axle