these vids are fantastic- my passenger side axle broke, the wheel folded perpendicular to the road @70MPH. I was very lucky. Currently in the process of replacing a hole bunch of stuff, control arm, struts, axle, tie rods, ball joints. Vehicle has over 345,000 miles on it- the engine is solid, tranny shifts nice and tight, no body rot so I'm going this route. Again- these vids are making it possible.
@@insanebeatjunkie the night before the failure- I started hearing what sounded like caliper noise- only louder. There was no shaking. The next morning I decided to drive to a garage I rent- I wanted to jack the front of the car up to investigate- it's 7 miles to my garage- I only made it a little past the 4th mile- pretty scary but no body damage. The tire just folded under the frame and the car glided to a stop on the right side of the road- I was VERY lucky.
For all the homegamers doing this in the driveway - make sure you raise both front wheels off the ground. If you just raise one side it is possible to wrestle the strut off the steering knuckle but very difficult to get it back on as the sway bar will be under a fair amount of tension making it all but impossible to align the knuckle and strut. Ask me how I know... :O
Uh oh. They skipped over that step in the video. The knuckle was a bit difficult to get off. I am going into reinstall right now and I have been warned. Sadly I can not easily raise the other side of the car at this point.
I was kind of disappointed he didn't mention torque specifications for reassembly. Bolt sizes beg for many uggas and quite a few duggas, so it'd be nice have that information to ground breaker bar abuse hahaha
If you really want don’t want to have to buy the tool you can use a 2-2 1/4” short length of PVC pipe w/ cap to install the fitted ball joint. Still proceed with caution but it’s an option you might have laying around the house. I personally own several P2’s and bought the tool for 140$.
THANK YOU!!! You posted this just in time for me. I will say that I was able to do this without removing the hub (using jack straps to pull down the control arm once the bushings are secured). There is a danger of pulling out the inner cv joint this way, but it was reasonably easy to whack back into place.
Thank you for taking the time to make this video. It all went great for me by following the video. I did end up purchasing and using the ball joint insertion tool (expensive but quite frankly worth it. I spent a good two hours trying to press it in without the tool. Started over when it arrived in the mail and did it in 5 minutes!)
On my 2003 S60 FWD with 5 speed Aisin automatic transmission, on driver's (left) side there is no way to place the ratchet on the two front bolts of the control arm, without jacking the engine/transmission to clear the bolts heads. Even then is tight. I had to lift the transmission about 1 inch (put a wood on the jack to protect the casing) to be able to place a 3/8" drive ratchet on the two front bolts of the control arm. I have videos on my channel. But you need a solid quality ratchet, because with 3/8in drive it's a small ratchet and the bolts can be tight - I wish I could use a 1/2 drive ratchet but the sockets don't have enough space. Small tip, before removing, clean well the exposed bolt threads that come out from the control arm, use penetrating oil and brush the threads. Also, do not reuse a bolt if it's rusted! I put a rusted bolt back, and one year later when I removed it the bolt had half thickness remaining, eaten by rust. These bolts are coated with black protective layer, careful not to scratch this layer when inserting the bolt back through the subframe. Usually, you don't need to fully remove the bolts, but try moving them out a little to check if the protective coat is gone and if there's rust. These bolts also have different length to them, mark each bolt where it goes - you may also have the length is also different between the left and the right control arms as well.
I used an offset 17mm and it worked fine on both bolt heads. Just have to make an extension out of sturdy tubing to get enough torque. No need to jack.
@@donmoore7785 I think there were some differences depending on the years. I've seen a car at the junkyard where I didn't had to lift anything as well, but it's worth to be prepared for it
Great vid, Jay. I did this on my 2000 S80 (control arms only) a couple years ago. I got some solid Meyle arms from FCP Euro that are still riding strong today. Getting to the control arm bolts wasn't as easy, unfortunately - especially on the driver's side. I had to jack up the engine a little (roughly 2-3 inches) to get to the bolts, and I had to use cargo straps in order to get the arms back into the ball joint. But other than that, the procedure is roughly the same.
I believe the Meyle and Lemforder simply do not last. I have replaced using Meyle twice, and the 2nd replacement is now shot - each lasted only 20k miles and I avoid bumps and potholes. I am going to Volvo at full price. Not worth my labor to keep replacing inferior parts. FCP lifetime warranty does not cover labor!
If you had to use ratchet straps, you did not use his procedure of removing the knuckle. To avoid jacking the engine/trans, use an offset box wrench. I used a piece of tubular steel pipe around the other end of it to give more length (torque).
@@donmoore7785 Lemforder is the company that makes them for Volvo. I put them in my XC90, and didn't have any issues 3 years later when it was traded in.
@@adamhunter1979 positive optimism with doing a job that shouldn't take too long > humorous affirmation deflecting irritation at difficult bolt > agitated grumbling at difficult bolt > yelling curses at who could have engineered the location and angle of this difficult bolt > guttural shrieking at nothing and everything > walk away after feeling foolish for the insane outburst > come back after cooling off > get past the difficult bolt with alarming ease > relief from completing the job > sore throat for the rest of the day
4:19 - My steering bump stops were riveted on, not bolted, so I had to drill those out and get suitable weather-proof bolts and nuts to install the stops on the new control arm
Nice flat piece of wood, couple turns on each bolt to keep it even, tap the wood on the front ledge with a 3 lb sledge to keep the front even with the bolts and keep going in the pattern until it’s in.
It's amazing how much room you have to get sockets onto the 2 bolts for the control arm. I had to use a curved wrench to get that bolt out. The engine was in the way
I always seems to watch the video after I did the job, to see why it was difficult, I used a blunted chisel around the edge where the volvo tool would contact and used the bolts to carefully tap it in, it tried to go sideways, and it took several tries to get it going straight, once you have it going in straight tap away keeping it straight and keeping tension on the bolts. Tap tap tap tighten bolts, repeat. Not pretty, not easy, but the job is done, I'm used to doing stuff without the special tools, but I would buy that tool next time if there is a next time.
I'm guessing it's because the ball joint has to be chiseled out then hammered back into the knuckle, right? Would leaving it connected (to the strut I presume) cause damage when applying force to remove the ball joint? Or perhaps it risks the chance of the car shifting off of the jackstand from the forces applied? Or I'm guessing it's more difficult to control a hammer trying to hammer vertically rather than horizontally, which isn't possible while the steering knuckle is still installed in the car.
2001-2006... 10mm for bump stop. If they're worn, you can swap them side to side to get more life. There *is* a faster way for control arm, but kind of need 2 people and puts undue strain one some parts.
Thx FCP! This is the only true correct video on how to change the control arm on all the cars you mention, I did the passanger side on our XC70 2005 D5 and did not remove the outer drive shaft or centre axel bolt, now I may have to take out the inner and outer drive shaft and even pull the axle out of the manual 6 speed gear box, I cant feel that any ball bearing balls came out into the rubber inner protection next angle bearing, would you know if it just ok to push the outer drive shaft back into place or is it a must for me to take out the entire drive shaft? Do you have any idea? Thx again from a Swede with three Volvos! You are simply the best out there! Regards Björn
Hi Bjorn, thanks for the compliments and I'm sorry to hear of the issue. The inner joint is a tripod joint so if it popped you you should be able to just find its way back into the housing without removing the axle or boot.
Hi Jason! Just finalized the drivers side with help from your video! 2.5 hours instead of 8 hours on the passenger side where I used another where you use ratchets and don't remove the drive shaft. I already pushed back the shaft / axle and it does not make any noise when turning anymore. Perhaps I should give it a try and put all back on. You guys at FCP are my idols! Simply the best!
Hi Jason! Just finalized the drivers side with help from your video! 2.5 hours instead of 8 hours on the passenger side where I used another where you use ratchets and don't remove the drive shaft. I already pushed back the shaft / axle and it does not make any noise when turning anymore. Perhaps I should give it a try and put all back on. You guys at FCP are my idols! Simply the best!
instead of spending $150 on this ball joint tool they have you can usually get away with just tightening the bolts and the ball joint will press itself into the knuckle. this method worked for me easily on my 08 xc90
Just did mine in the drive on a jack. Didn't take any of that stuff off at all. Rule Number 1. Never disturb the strut bolts unless you are changing it. The holes are elongated and once you undo them you WILL have to go and seek an alignment expert to set your camber angles or you will ruin your tyres and your car will not handle properly so would be considered. dangerous. All I did was undo the three Wishbone bolts, undo the bottom joints two 13mm bolts and tap it out in situ. Then undo the bottom bolt (if replacing it) and take it out. Slot in the new arm, start the bolts, swap the bump stop over and fit the lower joint. Lever down the arm and refit to lower joint. Tighten it all up and away you go. You need just the right sort of bar to lever the arm down or it can be a struggle.
Did you attach the new (or old) ball joint to the arm before pressing it up into the knuckle? In the few videos I've seen, getting the LCA over the ball joint stud seemed hard. But I'm wondering what are the issues with seating the ball joint while seated on the LCA. I have to do my wife's xc90 this week.
I have used the short cut method in the past, and I am going to change to the method shown next time - even though I just had my wheels aligned. I'll pay the premium. It can be a major PITA to lever the arm down.
Is this a good opportunity to regrease the axle to steering knucle connection/splines? (I probably didn't use the right terms since im not that knowledge about suspension, yet) I've read about a greasing procedure for the AWD driveshaft, not the same part but probably a similar concept where the splines and joints need to be greased. (My AWD driveshaft lasted 210000 miles before breaking because the splines wore and broke off)
If was just replacing the control arm could I leave the hub attached to the strut and axle, and just compress the suspension enough to allow the lower control arm to clear the ball joint? Also why in all the videos I see does nobody replace the control arm bushings instead of a whole new control arm?
The reason is because the bushings need to get aligned in a very specific way. You can buy the bushings, but you have to cut out the old ones with a hole saw, put the new ones in a freezer, get them aligned perfectly and then still push them in with a 20 ton press. If you have the alignment wrong, you have to cut it out and get a new bushing. Given the cost of the whole LCA, for most people it is worth it to just spend the extra $40-80 and get a whole LCA rather than replace the bushings.
Yes to your first question. You can lever the arms down (with the correct size and shape lever) to just drop off the ball joint pin. You then remove the arm once the bolts are undone. Yes you can change the bushes but a new arm is £50 posted. Is it worth it? Bushes are £25 then you have to fit them which needs a special tool.
I have used that technique a few times, and have had issues with enough torque to pull down the arms. Probably need a better technique, but next time I am going to use this method, and pay for a wheel alignment.
I really wished he showed how to use that tool to remove as well as install. I think the removal is more of a PITA than the install, esp if you do it while still on car.
Jay must love his job at Volvo. The bolts on these cars are the easiest to remove in the whole automotive industry I'll go saying on my S60 I had to jack the engine 3/4" on both sides (no need to disconnect any engine mount) to clear the two control arm bolts - have these bolts replaced with new from Volvo, they are cheap (for once) and old bolts reused will get eaten by rust because of the contact with the subframe.
I did this job like 2 years ago on my 02 s60. I had the same problem. It took me like 2 weeks to start because I had to order tools multiple times because of the tight fit on those control arm bolts. I want to say I had to order a special 3/4 inch sockets in abnormal sizes and also get a super slim abnormal breaker bar and literally kick it with my foot to get it loose. Then later tighten it the same way at the end. There was no torquing on those. Of all the DIYs I have done on my Volvo and there have been many the control arms was the most difficult. Especially using all hand tools.
I used a 17mm offset box wrench and it worked fine. No need to jack the engine. But you are correct - you can't get one of the bolts out unless you jack it. Mine are 17 years old and have not rusted.
You are going to have to cut the thread off to give clearance. Check you have no left anything out first though. Is it a cheap chinese replacement arm? Maybe the specs are to thin on the bottom joint tapers?
Hi there, I want to replace all bolts on my control arms and, as you know, the right hand side on V70s and other P2 has interference from engine/trans, which need to be lifted an inch to slide bolt out. Question: can I get enough lift without undoing any engine mounts and not damage same??? Appreciate you advice, thanks
I thought I read somewhere that you only torque down the control arm fasteners for the bushings when the vehicle is on the floor with the suspension loaded, not with the car jacked or lifted up where the suspension is not bearing any load. Is that not accurate?
Hello, on most Volvo models the control arms can be torqued down with the vehicle in the air or on the ground. The bushing will not twist or move while tightening because of the design that Volvo uses.
On my 96 850 you did need to load the wheel with the vehicle's weight before torqueing down the control arm (to preserve bushing life), but on the newer models I've heard you don't have to.
the front control arm bushing cannot rotate when the bolt looseit's not like it is on a Vectra it makes no difference if it's tightened with the vehicle jacked
great vid, helpful as always. If i'm just replacing the control arm will i need to remove hub still or will i just be able to pull it out once all the bolts are off?
This video has a break in it at a critical point - "next we are going to compress..." precedes showing how you got the strut back in place. The video jumps to after it is engaged with the knuckle.
yes - I did it today. I used long bolts as 'index pins' and I used a pvc pipe that fit over the ball joint then starting tapping it in. I put a little antisieze on the edges. Just take your time and MAKE SURE you're going it straight or you'll mar the pocket where the ball joint seats into the knuckle. I had to back out- clean it up and try again- 2nd attempt went right in. DO NOT try to seat the ball joint using the bolts- you'll just bend the mounting edges and the ball joint won't be seated correctly. Just take your time and tap it in little by little- it'll go in. good luck
"Next we're going to compress" @ 7:49 Just takes a couple of seconds in the vid, but really?? Done this Job myself. You better have a way of pulling that control arm down enough to line up those bolts. Anyway, these guys at FCP are otherwise A-OK.
this is my exact problem on my 2008 s80. how did you line up the bolts? and for you kids out there, never own a volvo. the people who design them hate you and will stop at nothing to design a car that you cannot work on yourself. they HATE you?
@@soylentgreen2065 Like Citroen 1970-90's too....special tools for everything......they didnt care about part replacement later on for DIY......GRRRRRRR
@@soylentgreen2065 Just bought my son a Ford thinking they would be easy to work on. Ha! The engine is a Peugeot Diesel and you need tiny but incredibly strong hands and arms for most jobs..Even changing the starter is a nightmare the first time. Finding invisible bolts, working out how the wring comes off the solenoid, it all great fun. Give me a Volvo to work on any day.
Buen día disculpe ustedes podrían orientarme donde encuentro el módulo de la alarma de mi volvo c30 año 2008 por su tiempo muchas gracias un saludo desde el otro lado del mundo
I just replaced both lower control arms on the front of my 2004 Volvo S60 and the brunt of the job was just getting the ball joint nut off. Unfortunately for me, both counter torque inserts in the bolt were completely warn away (so it was basically just a hole with no grip for the hex torques fitting). My way around it was to use a vise grip that that made contact with both sides of the knuckle of the control arm where the ball joint bolt went through. I had to clamp the vice grip enough so that it would hold tightly the parts of the ball joint that wanted to spin as I would loosen the bolt. As long as you use a 18mm wrench and not an impact driver to slowly loosen the nut, it works perfectly. Just thought I'd mention an alternative way to get the nut off rather than cutting it off.
Im about to change the front wheel hub (I just changed my control arms, ball joints, struts, inner and outer tie rods 5 mos ago on my 2008 Volvo XC90, AWD). During that time I also installed new bolts and nuts to include brake caliper bolts, strut bolts/nuts, and control arm bolts. When replacing the front wheel hub, is there a way to separate the ball joint from the control arm? Or do I have to loosen the strut bolts? Do I have to change all of the strut bolts/nuts again? How about the brake caliper bolts? I believe if I have to loosen the strut bolts and nuts, I would have to have an allignment as well. Thank you
Hello Riley, hardware is always recommend to be replaced once removed. The ball joint can be removed with the use of a ball joint separation tool or you can use a hammer. An alignment is also recommended once any suspension or steering component is removed and/or replaced.
Thx for the video but I have a question. With the ball joint, could you just have tightened the ball joint with the screws by themselves instead of having to use the ball joint tool?
Using the ball joint installation tool ensures that you properly press the ball joint into the knuckle of your Volvo instead of the alternative tactics such as using a larger socket which can tear the ball joint boot and damage the housing, or using the mounting bolts to drive the ball joint into the knuckle which can strip the threads and bend/damage the housing.
FCP Euro The tool is almost $150 dollars, I believe a simple wrench hammer will work for this. It doesn't appear like that ball joint is very tightly fit in there anyways if you can tap it in there with a hammer. Most ball joints require an industrial press to snap them in. Volvo doesn't and thats why they have to secure them with two bolts.
I see you were able to just lift off the knuckle from the lower control arm after removing the bottom bolt. Ever have this stuck on and need to be pressed out? Both side of mine are stuck... completely stuck.
Bottom nut on ball joint, I presume you mean. Simple ball joint separator tool would likely suffice in freeing the ball joint stud from the control arm.
They are not an interference fit like standard ball joints. They should just come apart with a gentle tap. The loading from the lower arm may be preventing it coming out?
Should come right off IF the control arm is not under tension. Do you have the knuckle disconnected from the strut as in the video? I had to tap it a few times and pull in the right direction to get it off.
wait a second.. I thought the control arm and suspension needs to be "loaded" before tightening the control arm bolts, otherwise you get premature wear.
Russell Garr the rear control arm bushings have the annoying habit of going bad early. Aftermarket control arm prices make it economical to just replace the whole control arm
In fact it's recommended to replace just about ALL the fasteners shown in this video: 1) Control arm bolts & nut, 2) Strut-to-knuckle bolts/nuts, 3) Ball joint bolts & nut, 4) Brake caliper bolts, and even 5) Tie rod nut. Per Haynes manual. Several of these are torque-to-yield.
how in the hell does everyones control arms on they volvos come off the ball joint like butter but mines feels like ite fricken welded to the control arm just spent 6 hours on it and its still stuck anyone got some advice for me? also i dont have new ball joints so i dont wanna use a spreader and destroy the bushing in the ball joint. im pretty stuck and the car is my daily please if anyone sees this help me
Just get a piece of pipe with the right diameter to slide over the joint, put a piece of wood on the other end and whack it in with a hammer while keeping a close eye on the alignment. One thing they didn't mention in this video is to clean everything thoroughly before installing the new joint.
@@dvdouden Thanks I want to avoiding buying a tool who will only been used one or two time... Piece of pipe could be a nice alternative. I just need to find one not to thick :)
Hello Riley, most of the hardware can be reused. The only time you'll need to replace hardware is if it's heavily corroded or a one-time use stretch bolt.
My used in the country XC90 strut to hub carrier bolts both snapped trying to undo them. They were very rusty. One side the threads face forward and get all the weather. They were the ones that snapped/ The other side the thread faces the rear so are more protected. They undid and were reusable.
That is how to mess up camber and tracking. You cannot just undo the strut like that. It has a huge amount of movement too set the camber angle. They did not even tell viewers to go and pay $100's afterwards to get it all set up by an alignment company to make sure it is safe to drive.
I am using this procedure because I don't want to mess around with ratchet straps and prying the control arm down to get it to fit. But you are correct - they should warn in the video you MUST get the car aligned afterwards. I have an appointment tomorrow morning.
Need these replaced on my Volvo V50 2008. Bought the parts now I need to find a decent garage that will do it. I've already spent nearly £3k trying to sort out the suspension -.- Eventually found out that the issue was these! >< Car's front wheels don't feel like they're fixed on correctly - erratic swerving at higher speeds and clunks over the slightest bump, at any speed. Question is - How long would each arm take to replace? I've had enough now and just want a fair job done. If anyone could recommend someone that can do these - Lancashire/Cumbria area(UK), would be greatly appreciated! :)
on this vovo xc90 04 am having troble getting the new ball joint in and I have the sipdle is off …..I have seen other vidos here doing the same job w out this tool but I cant master the thing or is it me lol so am taking it to a friend of mine in the morning and see how he dose it lol
Hi Jason! Is it crucial to tighten the ball joint nut with the break disc unit hanging out? I only tightened it by hand first and then when drive shaft and strut bolts where all tightened only then did I torque up and tighten the ball joint nut. The reason why I'm asking is that my wheels are leaning to the inside on both sides. Lower part of the wheel that is.
Sounds like when you did the two 18mm/21mm through bolts that attach the mcpherson strut to the hub you didn't paint lines on the parts to keep them aligned for when you reassembled. Those two bolts can be loosened and the two parts moved relative to each other to change your camber. What people do with mcpherson strut setups like that is prior to taking things apart they wire brush all the dirt and grime off the parts then get nail polish to make a paint line showing the relative positions of where they bolt up. So what you can do now is jack each front side up so that the wheel is barely off the ground, take the wheel off, get a level, loosen the two 18/21mm through bolts, use a level to make sure the wheel is somewhat straight up and down, then tighten the through bolts so that once the car is sitting back on the ground your wheels will be straight up and down vs canted in or out. In the future use the painting with fingernail polish to keep things relative to each other for reassembly. Anyone else feel to chime in if you think you can describe this process better.
Hi Marcus! Thx for your reply! I did paint lines only I used a different method. I marked each side of the strut with a sharp metal "nail" and a hammer. That was exactly like before. I also changed the tie rod ends and the ones I got were half a centimeter longer than original Volvo ones. A local garage here in Germany could not adjust the wheels because there were missing two millimeters of threads on the Teilex rod. Solution - straight off to Volvo to buy two original ones then straight home to my garage where I Changed them both in 30min! Then back to the garage and then they managed to get the wheels perfect aligned with their lazer equipment!
Good lord. Impact are wonderful, and have many good uses, but hammering home bolts that might KILL YOU if they fail isn't one of the uses any good mechanic would risk. Please at least insert a disclaimer along the lines of that you really did use a torque wrench, but it took too long to film. Please. 32yrs a Volvo tech.
I don't see any torque specs in the description, in the comments, and didn't see the fasteners torqued in the video. So were they torqued down later? Do you not need to? What are the torque specs, if you don't mind? Thank you. Love your channel.
This is probably the front of the car, do you guys have a video in how to replace the lower driver side rear harm on a V70 2003, it is a bitch of a job, I believe the all rear assembly need to come down because there is no space to remove the arm
When I see the mechanic tightening all the screws with an air wrench, I feel nauseous! There are times when you have to do everything yourself. I will not mention that this bungler did not clean any mounting sockets or apply anti-seize grease (at least in places where aluminum meets steel).
Do you guys have a video that shows how to remove and replace the rear Upper arm of the Volvo v70 2003, someone hit the back of my tire and bend it my upper arm, there is no space to remove it unless the all assembly needs to drop and tat is a pain in the ass, this the the dumbest design that I ever see, thanks
I'm only a DIY mech but man you did this the hard way!! No need for disc/hub removal... but also the video is way too dark so cant see it well, then you say no press needed etc ref removing lower ball joint then break out a fricking air chisel!!! I'm guess many get stuck at removing lower ball joint as its pressed in.. be it lightly but it gets corroded and I cant remove mine.. AKA Video no help!! to others trying I'm afraid its a pain in the bottom and with normal tools you need a heavy duty flat head with a hit spot and a heavy hammer, cant see any other way without air tools.. anyway back to it
I have used the "easy" method of not removing the knuckle, and it can be a real pain in the neck. This looks easy peasy, but I will have to pay to have the wheels aligned.
Why do you lie? Step 1: remove bolt for tie rod Except you don’t say the tie rod just spins and you need to use a wrench while you clamp the bolt so it doesn’t spin. Why do you lie?
Shop the parts used in this video: www.fcpeuro.com/products/volvo-control-arm-kit-front-s60-v70-s60cakit3l
these vids are fantastic- my passenger side axle broke, the wheel folded perpendicular to the road @70MPH. I was very lucky. Currently in the process of replacing a hole bunch of stuff, control arm, struts, axle, tie rods, ball joints. Vehicle has over 345,000 miles on it- the engine is solid, tranny shifts nice and tight, no body rot so I'm going this route. Again- these vids are making it possible.
Was your car shaking side to side?
@@insanebeatjunkie the night before the failure- I started hearing what sounded like caliper noise- only louder. There was no shaking. The next morning I decided to drive to a garage I rent- I wanted to jack the front of the car up to investigate- it's 7 miles to my garage- I only made it a little past the 4th mile- pretty scary but no body damage. The tire just folded under the frame and the car glided to a stop on the right side of the road- I was VERY lucky.
For all the homegamers doing this in the driveway - make sure you raise both front wheels off the ground. If you just raise one side it is possible to wrestle the strut off the steering knuckle but very difficult to get it back on as the sway bar will be under a fair amount of tension making it all but impossible to align the knuckle and strut. Ask me how I know... :O
fighting with mine now, I'll have to raise the other wheel when I try again in the morning.
I did the other side 4 years ago and forget how I did it.
I made exactly same mistake. I used 99% of the time to align it all together... It was almost impossible.
Uh oh. They skipped over that step in the video. The knuckle was a bit difficult to get off. I am going into reinstall right now and I have been warned. Sadly I can not easily raise the other side of the car at this point.
It was a great fight which i won…
Very cool how the Technician explains Socket sizes for each part in the process.
I was kind of disappointed he didn't mention torque specifications for reassembly. Bolt sizes beg for many uggas and quite a few duggas, so it'd be nice have that information to ground breaker bar abuse hahaha
no one puts these parts to torque spec. just use your hand and brain to think is it tight enough@@illitero
@@VelehokalaI've heard of that strategy but it seems a bit scary, why would torque specs exist if we don't have to use them?
I like how it says "No press needed", but then he uses a press tool to reinstall the ball joint lol
The tool is not actually needed I found just carefully tighten each bolt a little at a time alternating until it’s snug
@@Airduct_ltd sounds like a very efficient way to strip the bolts on the knuckle.
If you really want don’t want to have to buy the tool you can use a 2-2 1/4” short length of PVC pipe w/ cap to install the fitted ball joint. Still proceed with caution but it’s an option you might have laying around the house. I personally own several P2’s and bought the tool for 140$.
THANK YOU!!! You posted this just in time for me. I will say that I was able to do this without removing the hub (using jack straps to pull down the control arm once the bushings are secured). There is a danger of pulling out the inner cv joint this way, but it was reasonably easy to whack back into place.
be very carefull about the inner cv joint, i pulled that out and ruined my driveshaft.
You’ll probably damage your control arm bushing doing that
@knut5748 - how did it ruin your drive shaft?
Thank you for taking the time to make this video. It all went great for me by following the video. I did end up purchasing and using the ball joint insertion tool (expensive but quite frankly worth it. I spent a good two hours trying to press it in without the tool. Started over when it arrived in the mail and did it in 5 minutes!)
Glad the video helped Matthew.
On my 2003 S60 FWD with 5 speed Aisin automatic transmission, on driver's (left) side there is no way to place the ratchet on the two front bolts of the control arm, without jacking the engine/transmission to clear the bolts heads. Even then is tight. I had to lift the transmission about 1 inch (put a wood on the jack to protect the casing) to be able to place a 3/8" drive ratchet on the two front bolts of the control arm. I have videos on my channel. But you need a solid quality ratchet, because with 3/8in drive it's a small ratchet and the bolts can be tight - I wish I could use a 1/2 drive ratchet but the sockets don't have enough space. Small tip, before removing, clean well the exposed bolt threads that come out from the control arm, use penetrating oil and brush the threads. Also, do not reuse a bolt if it's rusted! I put a rusted bolt back, and one year later when I removed it the bolt had half thickness remaining, eaten by rust. These bolts are coated with black protective layer, careful not to scratch this layer when inserting the bolt back through the subframe. Usually, you don't need to fully remove the bolts, but try moving them out a little to check if the protective coat is gone and if there's rust. These bolts also have different length to them, mark each bolt where it goes - you may also have the length is also different between the left and the right control arms as well.
Which engine/transmission does it have? Did you have a long socket or a massive ratchet?
@@ollilehtonen6764 It's the 5 speed Aisin automatic. The 3/8 drive sockets were normal size, not long sockets, and not too thick either
I used an offset 17mm and it worked fine on both bolt heads. Just have to make an extension out of sturdy tubing to get enough torque. No need to jack.
@@donmoore7785 I think there were some differences depending on the years. I've seen a car at the junkyard where I didn't had to lift anything as well, but it's worth to be prepared for it
Great vid, Jay. I did this on my 2000 S80 (control arms only) a couple years ago. I got some solid Meyle arms from FCP Euro that are still riding strong today. Getting to the control arm bolts wasn't as easy, unfortunately - especially on the driver's side. I had to jack up the engine a little (roughly 2-3 inches) to get to the bolts, and I had to use cargo straps in order to get the arms back into the ball joint. But other than that, the procedure is roughly the same.
I believe the Meyle and Lemforder simply do not last. I have replaced using Meyle twice, and the 2nd replacement is now shot - each lasted only 20k miles and I avoid bumps and potholes. I am going to Volvo at full price. Not worth my labor to keep replacing inferior parts. FCP lifetime warranty does not cover labor!
If you had to use ratchet straps, you did not use his procedure of removing the knuckle. To avoid jacking the engine/trans, use an offset box wrench. I used a piece of tubular steel pipe around the other end of it to give more length (torque).
@@donmoore7785 Lemforder is the company that makes them for Volvo. I put them in my XC90, and didn't have any issues 3 years later when it was traded in.
Who works on a car in a polo, I look homeless when I work on my car.
I look not only homeless but a bit crazy, always talking and yelling at nothing!😂
@@adamhunter1979 positive optimism with doing a job that shouldn't take too long > humorous affirmation deflecting irritation at difficult bolt > agitated grumbling at difficult bolt > yelling curses at who could have engineered the location and angle of this difficult bolt > guttural shrieking at nothing and everything > walk away after feeling foolish for the insane outburst > come back after cooling off > get past the difficult bolt with alarming ease > relief from completing the job > sore throat for the rest of the day
Final step- Perform wheel alignment.
I would also go behind an make sure its torqued to the correct specs.
4:19 - My steering bump stops were riveted on, not bolted, so I had to drill those out and get suitable weather-proof bolts and nuts to install the stops on the new control arm
I thought it was supposed to be a "no press needed" job, or don't specialized press tool count?
Nice flat piece of wood, couple turns on each bolt to keep it even, tap the wood on the front ledge with a 3 lb sledge to keep the front even with the bolts and keep going in the pattern until it’s in.
I notice they did the easiest side. The right side has a huge engine in the way of the bolts.
I learned that the hard way yesterday 😂😂
You use an offset box wrench with a tubular extension for more torque to do that without jacking the engine/trans.
It's amazing how much room you have to get sockets onto the 2 bolts for the control arm. I had to use a curved wrench to get that bolt out. The engine was in the way
I always seems to watch the video after I did the job, to see why it was difficult, I used a blunted chisel around the edge where the volvo tool would contact and used the bolts to carefully tap it in, it tried to go sideways, and it took several tries to get it going straight, once you have it going in straight tap away keeping it straight and keeping tension on the bolts. Tap tap tap tighten bolts, repeat. Not pretty, not easy, but the job is done, I'm used to doing stuff without the special tools, but I would buy that tool next time if there is a next time.
Request more lights while you working thanks ... Good job,👌👌
6:30, that's a nice ball joint tool. 👍
Is there a list of torque specs for each bolt?
How much should it cost to get two front ball joints replaced on a Volvo S60 2.0T P2? UK? Was thinking about £320??
Hey JuicingDailyTV, the best bet is to call a local shop you trust for a quote!
Is there a reason to take the entire knuckle off? 960s this can be done without removing the steering knuckle
I'm guessing it's because the ball joint has to be chiseled out then hammered back into the knuckle, right? Would leaving it connected (to the strut I presume) cause damage when applying force to remove the ball joint? Or perhaps it risks the chance of the car shifting off of the jackstand from the forces applied?
Or I'm guessing it's more difficult to control a hammer trying to hammer vertically rather than horizontally, which isn't possible while the steering knuckle is still installed in the car.
2001-2006... 10mm for bump stop. If they're worn, you can swap them side to side to get more life. There *is* a faster way for control arm, but kind of need 2 people and puts undue strain one some parts.
what is the easier way?
You couldn't just use a brass hammer to tap the ball joint in?
1:08 - every well stocked shop needs a large pepsi machine... ;-)
Are you Marty Junior? Pepsi, Pepsi... Please go to the café 80.
Hallo everybody from Germany 🇩🇪
Hello, Ali Ali!
Hello just saw the control arm ball joint replacement on a 2009 C70 T5 Volvo. Thank you. What should that cost at a mechanic shop?
Thx FCP! This is the only true correct video on how to change the control arm on all the cars you mention, I did the passanger side on our XC70 2005 D5 and did not remove the outer drive shaft or centre axel bolt, now I may have to take out the inner and outer drive shaft and even pull the axle out of the manual 6 speed gear box, I cant feel that any ball bearing balls came out into the rubber inner protection next angle bearing, would you know if it just ok to push the outer drive shaft back into place or is it a must for me to take out the entire drive shaft? Do you have any idea? Thx again from a Swede with three Volvos! You are simply the best out there! Regards Björn
Hi Bjorn, thanks for the compliments and I'm sorry to hear of the issue. The inner joint is a tripod joint so if it popped you you should be able to just find its way back into the housing without removing the axle or boot.
Hi Jason! Just finalized the drivers side with help from your video! 2.5 hours instead of 8 hours on the passenger side where I used another where you use ratchets and don't remove the drive shaft. I already pushed back the shaft / axle and it does not make any noise when turning anymore. Perhaps I should give it a try and put all back on. You guys at FCP are my idols! Simply the best!
Hi Jason! Just finalized the drivers side with help from your video! 2.5 hours instead of 8 hours on the passenger side where I used another where you use ratchets and don't remove the drive shaft. I already pushed back the shaft / axle and it does not make any noise when turning anymore. Perhaps I should give it a try and put all back on. You guys at FCP are my idols! Simply the best!
instead of spending $150 on this ball joint tool they have you can usually get away with just tightening the bolts and the ball joint will press itself into the knuckle. this method worked for me easily on my 08 xc90
Just did mine in the drive on a jack. Didn't take any of that stuff off at all. Rule Number 1. Never disturb the strut bolts unless you are changing it. The holes are elongated and once you undo them you WILL have to go and seek an alignment expert to set your camber angles or you will ruin your tyres and your car will not handle properly so would be considered. dangerous. All I did was undo the three Wishbone bolts, undo the bottom joints two 13mm bolts and tap it out in situ. Then undo the bottom bolt (if replacing it) and take it out. Slot in the new arm, start the bolts, swap the bump stop over and fit the lower joint. Lever down the arm and refit to lower joint. Tighten it all up and away you go. You need just the right sort of bar to lever the arm down or it can be a struggle.
Did you attach the new (or old) ball joint to the arm before pressing it up into the knuckle? In the few videos I've seen, getting the LCA over the ball joint stud seemed hard. But I'm wondering what are the issues with seating the ball joint while seated on the LCA. I have to do my wife's xc90 this week.
I have used the short cut method in the past, and I am going to change to the method shown next time - even though I just had my wheels aligned. I'll pay the premium. It can be a major PITA to lever the arm down.
excellent tutorial!
Is this a good opportunity to regrease the axle to steering knucle connection/splines? (I probably didn't use the right terms since im not that knowledge about suspension, yet) I've read about a greasing procedure for the AWD driveshaft, not the same part but probably a similar concept where the splines and joints need to be greased. (My AWD driveshaft lasted 210000 miles before breaking because the splines wore and broke off)
Is this possible to do with hand tools and how long would it take an average person to replace both left and right control arms?
If was just replacing the control arm could I leave the hub attached to the strut and axle, and just compress the suspension enough to allow the lower control arm to clear the ball joint? Also why in all the videos I see does nobody replace the control arm bushings instead of a whole new control arm?
The reason is because the bushings need to get aligned in a very specific way. You can buy the bushings, but you have to cut out the old ones with a hole saw, put the new ones in a freezer, get them aligned perfectly and then still push them in with a 20 ton press. If you have the alignment wrong, you have to cut it out and get a new bushing. Given the cost of the whole LCA, for most people it is worth it to just spend the extra $40-80 and get a whole LCA rather than replace the bushings.
Yes to your first question. You can lever the arms down (with the correct size and shape lever) to just drop off the ball joint pin. You then remove the arm once the bolts are undone. Yes you can change the bushes but a new arm is £50 posted. Is it worth it? Bushes are £25 then you have to fit them which needs a special tool.
I have used that technique a few times, and have had issues with enough torque to pull down the arms. Probably need a better technique, but next time I am going to use this method, and pay for a wheel alignment.
I used the special ball joint remover/installer tool made by CTA... $125, cake.
who is CTA?
I really wished he showed how to use that tool to remove as well as install. I think the removal is more of a PITA than the install, esp if you do it while still on car.
Jay must love his job at Volvo. The bolts on these cars are the easiest to remove in the whole automotive industry
I'll go saying on my S60 I had to jack the engine 3/4" on both sides (no need to disconnect any engine mount) to clear the two control arm bolts - have these bolts replaced with new from Volvo, they are cheap (for once) and old bolts reused will get eaten by rust because of the contact with the subframe.
I did this job like 2 years ago on my 02 s60. I had the same problem. It took me like 2 weeks to start because I had to order tools multiple times because of the tight fit on those control arm bolts. I want to say I had to order a special 3/4 inch sockets in abnormal sizes and also get a super slim abnormal breaker bar and literally kick it with my foot to get it loose. Then later tighten it the same way at the end. There was no torquing on those. Of all the DIYs I have done on my Volvo and there have been many the control arms was the most difficult. Especially using all hand tools.
I used a 17mm offset box wrench and it worked fine. No need to jack the engine. But you are correct - you can't get one of the bolts out unless you jack it. Mine are 17 years old and have not rusted.
I've replaced my control arm on my 02 s60 and north ball joint is tearing into my rim any idea where to look to resolve this?
You are going to have to cut the thread off to give clearance. Check you have no left anything out first though. Is it a cheap chinese replacement arm? Maybe the specs are to thin on the bottom joint tapers?
Hi there, I want to replace all bolts on my control arms and, as you know, the right hand side on V70s and other P2 has interference from engine/trans, which need to be lifted an inch to slide bolt out. Question: can I get enough lift without undoing any engine mounts and not damage same??? Appreciate you advice, thanks
I thought I read somewhere that you only torque down the control arm fasteners for the bushings when the vehicle is on the floor with the suspension loaded, not with the car jacked or lifted up where the suspension is not bearing any load. Is that not accurate?
Hello, on most Volvo models the control arms can be torqued down with the vehicle in the air or on the ground. The bushing will not twist or move while tightening because of the design that Volvo uses.
On my 96 850 you did need to load the wheel with the vehicle's weight before torqueing down the control arm (to preserve bushing life), but on the newer models I've heard you don't have to.
the front control arm bushing cannot rotate when the bolt looseit's not like it is on a Vectra it makes no difference if it's tightened with the vehicle jacked
@@Cre8tvMG That sounds familiar. I believe I needed to do that with my '95 T5
great vid, helpful as always. If i'm just replacing the control arm will i need to remove hub still or will i just be able to pull it out once all the bolts are off?
Hello Wilson, you won't have to remove the hub if you're just replacing the control arms.
This video has a break in it at a critical point - "next we are going to compress..." precedes showing how you got the strut back in place. The video jumps to after it is engaged with the knuckle.
this is certainly an older video, we'll pass along the info to the team, maybe we can reshoot
Is it possible to install the ball joint without the special tool?
yes - I did it today. I used long bolts as 'index pins' and I used a pvc pipe that fit over the ball joint then starting tapping it in. I put a little antisieze on the edges. Just take your time and MAKE SURE you're going it straight or you'll mar the pocket where the ball joint seats into the knuckle. I had to back out- clean it up and try again- 2nd attempt went right in. DO NOT try to seat the ball joint using the bolts- you'll just bend the mounting edges and the ball joint won't be seated correctly. Just take your time and tap it in little by little- it'll go in. good luck
"Next we're going to compress" @ 7:49 Just takes a couple of seconds in the vid, but really?? Done this Job myself. You better have a way of pulling that control arm down enough to line up those bolts. Anyway, these guys at FCP are otherwise A-OK.
this is my exact problem on my 2008 s80. how did you line up the bolts? and for you kids out there, never own a volvo. the people who design them hate you and will stop at nothing to design a car that you cannot work on yourself. they HATE you?
@@soylentgreen2065 Like Citroen 1970-90's too....special tools for everything......they didnt care about part replacement later on for DIY......GRRRRRRR
@@soylentgreen2065 Just bought my son a Ford thinking they would be easy to work on. Ha! The engine is a Peugeot Diesel and you need tiny but incredibly strong hands and arms for most jobs..Even changing the starter is a nightmare the first time. Finding invisible bolts, working out how the wring comes off the solenoid, it all great fun. Give me a Volvo to work on any day.
Buen día disculpe ustedes podrían orientarme donde encuentro el módulo de la alarma de mi volvo c30 año 2008 por su tiempo muchas gracias un saludo desde el otro lado del mundo
Nice to see your shoulder
I just replaced both lower control arms on the front of my 2004 Volvo S60 and the brunt of the job was just getting the ball joint nut off. Unfortunately for me, both counter torque inserts in the bolt were completely warn away (so it was basically just a hole with no grip for the hex torques fitting). My way around it was to use a vise grip that that made contact with both sides of the knuckle of the control arm where the ball joint bolt went through. I had to clamp the vice grip enough so that it would hold tightly the parts of the ball joint that wanted to spin as I would loosen the bolt. As long as you use a 18mm wrench and not an impact driver to slowly loosen the nut, it works perfectly. Just thought I'd mention an alternative way to get the nut off rather than cutting it off.
Thanks for the tip Swandoherty, smart thinking! Glad it worked out for you!
Nut splitter?
Im about to change the front wheel hub (I just changed my control arms, ball joints, struts, inner and outer tie rods 5 mos ago on my 2008 Volvo XC90, AWD). During that time I also installed new bolts and nuts to include brake caliper bolts, strut bolts/nuts, and control arm bolts.
When replacing the front wheel hub, is there a way to separate the ball joint from the control arm? Or do I have to loosen the strut bolts?
Do I have to change all of the strut bolts/nuts again? How about the brake caliper bolts?
I believe if I have to loosen the strut bolts and nuts, I would have to have an allignment as well.
Thank you
Hello Riley, hardware is always recommend to be replaced once removed. The ball joint can be removed with the use of a ball joint separation tool or you can use a hammer. An alignment is also recommended once any suspension or steering component is removed and/or replaced.
Does this apply to S60 R as well?
Yes, the installation process will be the same.
Thx for the video but I have a question. With the ball joint, could you just have tightened the ball joint with the screws by themselves instead of having to use the ball joint tool?
I was thinking the same thing, might save you $50 for a single use tool
Using the ball joint installation tool ensures that you properly press the ball joint into the knuckle of your Volvo instead of the alternative tactics such as using a larger socket which can tear the ball joint boot and damage the housing, or using the mounting bolts to drive the ball joint into the knuckle which can strip the threads and bend/damage the housing.
FCP Euro The tool is almost $150 dollars, I believe a simple wrench hammer will work for this. It doesn't appear like that ball joint is very tightly fit in there anyways if you can tap it in there with a hammer. Most ball joints require an industrial press to snap them in. Volvo doesn't and thats why they have to secure them with two bolts.
Oh Thank you, 1st time working on a Volvo
Dubblesteel I'm not a mechanic so don't take my word for it, just letting you know how I am going to do mine.
I see you were able to just lift off the knuckle from the lower control arm after removing the bottom bolt. Ever have this stuck on and need to be pressed out? Both side of mine are stuck... completely stuck.
Bottom nut on ball joint, I presume you mean. Simple ball joint separator tool would likely suffice in freeing the ball joint stud from the control arm.
They are not an interference fit like standard ball joints. They should just come apart with a gentle tap. The loading from the lower arm may be preventing it coming out?
Should come right off IF the control arm is not under tension. Do you have the knuckle disconnected from the strut as in the video? I had to tap it a few times and pull in the right direction to get it off.
wait a second.. I thought the control arm and suspension needs to be "loaded" before tightening the control arm bolts, otherwise you get premature wear.
Doesnt matter here since it can only be tightened in that position.
That went through my mind as well, but quickly realized the way it's attached to the subframe mitigates that as being an issue.
also the alignment shop will fix it ultimately
I don't believe one of those steel balls popped out either or do you know how easy they come out?
No torque specs?
The link to the "Shop the Products used" is not functioning. Where do you get the "press tool" for the ball joint?
E-Bay has them.
The old control arm looked okay to me. Why was it replaced?
Russell Garr the rear control arm bushings have the annoying habit of going bad early. Aftermarket control arm prices make it economical to just replace the whole control arm
@@Craig_Hilbig I am going to genuine Volvo. Replacing control arms every 2 years has become old. I did it twice, not doing it again.
Where can we get one of those ball joint press in tool?
Hi, Shiloh. You can get the tool right here: www.fcpeuro.com/products/volvo-ball-joint-installation-tool-s60-v70-s80-xc70-xc90-cta-4019
Is it okay to reuse the old bolts on the caliper bracket?
Its recommend to replace the caliper bracket bolts.
In fact it's recommended to replace just about ALL the fasteners shown in this video: 1) Control arm bolts & nut, 2) Strut-to-knuckle bolts/nuts, 3) Ball joint bolts & nut, 4) Brake caliper bolts, and even 5) Tie rod nut. Per Haynes manual. Several of these are torque-to-yield.
Really Happenings how does one go about accurately finding these bolts
Annd what about the axle bolt? That should be replaced.
Why is the video so dark? It's like they're working in shop where the lights are all broken.
I just watch an A1 video replacing both arm and ball joint he left all that stuff in place. Way less work. Plus didn't need to use a press.
how in the hell does everyones control arms on they volvos come off the ball joint like butter but mines feels like ite fricken welded to the control arm just spent 6 hours on it and its still stuck anyone got some advice for me? also i dont have new ball joints so i dont wanna use a spreader and destroy the bushing in the ball joint. im pretty stuck and the car is my daily please if anyone sees this help me
another great vid. thanks
“No press needed” pulls out specialty tool/installer.
Just get a piece of pipe with the right diameter to slide over the joint, put a piece of wood on the other end and whack it in with a hammer while keeping a close eye on the alignment.
One thing they didn't mention in this video is to clean everything thoroughly before installing the new joint.
@@dvdouden Thanks I want to avoiding buying a tool who will only been used one or two time... Piece of pipe could be a nice alternative. I just need to find one not to thick :)
I have a 2008 XC90, when replacing the struts and control arms, do I have to replace the two strut bolts, and the three control arm bolts?
Hello Riley, most of the hardware can be reused. The only time you'll need to replace hardware is if it's heavily corroded or a one-time use stretch bolt.
FCP Euro which one are the one time stretch bolt?
Your specific model should have regular bolts that can be reused providing the hardware is still in good condition.
My used in the country XC90 strut to hub carrier bolts both snapped trying to undo them. They were very rusty. One side the threads face forward and get all the weather. They were the ones that snapped/ The other side the thread faces the rear so are more protected. They undid and were reusable.
Replace
Tricked, i thought this was how to install new bushes into the control arm.
Why did you think (assume) this was about installing the bushings?
Good instruction video
Glad it was helpful!
Does this car had vibration issues?
That is how to mess up camber and tracking. You cannot just undo the strut like that. It has a huge amount of movement too set the camber angle. They did not even tell viewers to go and pay $100's afterwards to get it all set up by an alignment company to make sure it is safe to drive.
I am using this procedure because I don't want to mess around with ratchet straps and prying the control arm down to get it to fit. But you are correct - they should warn in the video you MUST get the car aligned afterwards. I have an appointment tomorrow morning.
I just use a large socket or a piece of pipe on the ball joint to whack it in.
Hi, how to get this press tool to ball joint?
Hello, it's shown at 6:22 in the video.
It's available online. I believe only one company makes it so it's easy to find. I bought it for this job and other future P2 vehicles.
jay can u do a video on a 2001 s60 t5 oil sump gasket video.please
Hello Michael, we'll keep that in mind for our upcoming Volvo diy videos.
Need these replaced on my Volvo V50 2008. Bought the parts now I need to find a decent garage that will do it. I've already spent nearly £3k trying to sort out the suspension -.- Eventually found out that the issue was these! >< Car's front wheels don't feel like they're fixed on correctly - erratic swerving at higher speeds and clunks over the slightest bump, at any speed. Question is - How long would each arm take to replace? I've had enough now and just want a fair job done. If anyone could recommend someone that can do these - Lancashire/Cumbria area(UK), would be greatly appreciated! :)
Simon did the control arms sort
Your issue in the end or was it something eles
Where is BEN?! I need some work done on my 97 850 GLT....
on this vovo xc90 04 am having troble getting the new ball joint in and I have the sipdle is off …..I have seen other vidos here doing the same job w out this tool but I cant master the thing or is it me lol so am taking it to a friend of mine in the morning and see how he dose it lol
Thanks a lot!
Thank You!! Totally helped me out.
You're welcome, Madland! Happy we could help!
This will definitely not work on a xc60
Wondering, where's the NO Press Needed part ? Any idea, coz i saw a press being used.
Hi Jason! Is it crucial to tighten the ball joint nut with the break disc unit hanging out? I only tightened it by hand first and then when drive shaft and strut bolts where all tightened only then did I torque up and tighten the ball joint nut. The reason why I'm asking is that my wheels are leaning to the inside on both sides. Lower part of the wheel that is.
Sounds like when you did the two 18mm/21mm through bolts that attach the mcpherson strut to the hub you didn't paint lines on the parts to keep them aligned for when you reassembled. Those two bolts can be loosened and the two parts moved relative to each other to change your camber. What people do with mcpherson strut setups like that is prior to taking things apart they wire brush all the dirt and grime off the parts then get nail polish to make a paint line showing the relative positions of where they bolt up. So what you can do now is jack each front side up so that the wheel is barely off the ground, take the wheel off, get a level, loosen the two 18/21mm through bolts, use a level to make sure the wheel is somewhat straight up and down, then tighten the through bolts so that once the car is sitting back on the ground your wheels will be straight up and down vs canted in or out. In the future use the painting with fingernail polish to keep things relative to each other for reassembly. Anyone else feel to chime in if you think you can describe this process better.
Hi Marcus! Thx for your reply! I did paint lines only I used a different method. I marked each side of the strut with a sharp metal "nail" and a hammer. That was exactly like before.
I also changed the tie rod ends and the ones I got were half a centimeter longer than original Volvo ones. A local garage here in Germany could not adjust the wheels because there were missing two millimeters of threads on the Teilex rod. Solution - straight off to Volvo to buy two original ones then straight home to my garage where I Changed them both in 30min! Then back to the garage and then they managed to get the wheels perfect aligned with their lazer equipment!
I sheared off the knuckle bolt :-/ FML everything was so worn nothing came out easy
JV SMOOVE ....... Like Buttah !!
Good lord. Impact are wonderful, and have many good uses, but hammering home bolts that might KILL YOU if they fail isn't one of the uses any good mechanic would risk. Please at least insert a disclaimer along the lines of that you really did use a torque wrench, but it took too long to film. Please.
32yrs a Volvo tech.
I don't see any torque specs in the description, in the comments, and didn't see the fasteners torqued in the video.
So were they torqued down later? Do you not need to? What are the torque specs, if you don't mind? Thank you. Love your channel.
What are the torque specifications?
Torque specs would have been a nice touch.
This is probably the front of the car, do you guys have a video in how to replace the lower driver side rear harm on a V70 2003, it is a bitch of a job, I believe the all rear assembly need to come down because there is no space to remove the arm
Anyone having trouble with brightness install the Chrome Video Styler extension and blast the brightness up to 300%
He's done that more than once, I'll bet ;)
no press needed just a specialist tool that probably costs £100+
When I see the mechanic tightening all the screws with an air wrench, I feel nauseous! There are times when you have to do everything yourself. I will not mention that this bungler did not clean any mounting sockets or apply anti-seize grease (at least in places where aluminum meets steel).
I meant to write , next to the angle bearing below, Zwischenlager in German......
Where's Baby Boy Ben???? :'(
BlastReadingSerie
Ben's doing time now, sad.
Ben is not doing time. He opened his own shop.
Seems like it's gonna be a 10 minute job. Lucky me!
Do you guys have a video that shows how to remove and replace the rear Upper arm of the Volvo v70 2003, someone hit the back of my tire and bend it my upper arm, there is no space to remove it unless the all assembly needs to drop and tat is a pain in the ass, this the the dumbest design that I ever see, thanks
We do not, but we can certainly add it to our to-do list!
I'm only a DIY mech but man you did this the hard way!! No need for disc/hub removal... but also the video is way too dark so cant see it well, then you say no press needed etc ref removing lower ball joint then break out a fricking air chisel!!! I'm guess many get stuck at removing lower ball joint as its pressed in.. be it lightly but it gets corroded and I cant remove mine.. AKA Video no help!! to others trying I'm afraid its a pain in the bottom and with normal tools you need a heavy duty flat head with a hit spot and a heavy hammer, cant see any other way without air tools.. anyway back to it
I have used the "easy" method of not removing the knuckle, and it can be a real pain in the neck. This looks easy peasy, but I will have to pay to have the wheels aligned.
waaa, no Nm wrench used🤯 just brute forcing . fast but not to spec.
how many of you folks own a car lift at home to fix your car.
This is not helpful you did edit the video on hard moments
Yes he did. The strut magically was reengaged while the camera was not running. Not cool.
To dark
Very very badly
lol
Why do you lie?
Step 1: remove bolt for tie rod
Except you don’t say the tie rod just spins and you need to use a wrench while you clamp the bolt so it doesn’t spin.
Why do you lie?
Step 1 Why are you so rude?
Step 1: soak with PB Blaster at least an hour before attempting to remove.