Thanks for the video. You're a good teacher. You focus on the "gotchas" of the job instead of the obvious or irrelevant things. I'm using this video to tackle a balljoint, axle, and wheel bearing job on my neverending PITA of a 2004 XC70. The only thing I would add to the video, is to remove the brake caliper and hang it safely on the spring out of the way to prevent damage, and give you a little more wiggle room to work.
Good thing for the woodstove. I don't have one in my garage but do have one in the living room and basement. I'm currently sitting in front of my little Buddy heater drinking a hot chocolate enjoying a pipe smoke and watching your video.Thanks again Erik& Jen
Well, Let me just say this. I worked for Volvo from the day these came out to about 10 years after the last one left the show room. I NEVER replaced the bolts unless they came with a new one, and I ALWAYS just gave it approximately 2 ugga duggas. Of the 500+ axles I replaced. Zero came back. Needless to say, I wouldn't worry about it.
That’s what they make heavy duty locktight for!! 😂 I just won’t want to be the next guy to break it loss. Oh crap, I’m the only one I’ll let work on my baby tank. 2004 xc70 350,000+ 2006 xc70 210,000+
Great video. My C30 at only 76,000 miles when I bought already had both axles replaced; one w/ aftermarket the other a dealer reman. The much higher priced OE obviously didn’t hold up very well.
Hi Erik. Wow, $44 vs. $385. Thank you to Jenn for assisting! Personally, would like to see any work needed on your Outlander (for selfish reasons!) Stay warm!
About that cheerful little nudge with the pry bar. Suppose NO AMOUNT OF prying with lots of wedges, pry bars, grunts and cursing brings the CV joint out. Does this suggest that the CLIP is distorted? The housing, I believe, may also be rusted to whatever it can grab, and not be JUST THE CLIP's retaining fault. Other suggestions before I give up and use the old CV joint? Grateful, Doug Day Maine, 2002 V70, front wheel drive only, driver's side. Replacing strut and ball joint also, but cannot remove the axle.
@@FarpointRestorationsAndRepairs I was finally able to have the circlip release with the use of a rented slide hammer. But first I had to pry like hell to enable the slide hammer grabber access. (A full quarter inch where there's only an eighth is a tussle). thx, DDay Maine That and the efforts, as you say, to get the clip in an advantageous position.
I have an ABS tone wheel problem on a 2015 XC70 T6 AWD, leftside/drivers rear wheel. I had replaced the sensor, which was indicated as the initial fault but then it became a tone wheel error upon sensor replacement. The tone wheel on the 2015 XC70 AWD only comes with a new CV axle, cannot be replaced separately, and it is simply a steel band, rather than the typical castled ring. Someone on Volvo forum told me it was more likely the wheel bearing rather than the tone wheel since the steel bands rarely go bad. It kind of made sense that it could be the wheel bearing since when I am sideways on a gradient, the ABS sensor takes longer to read to come up with the ABS error message (I hear it clicking, attempting to read the tone wheel). So I am trying to replace the wheel bearing hub first to see if that will fix the ABS problem and holding off on replacing the CV axle. However, I cannot get to the four T-55 bolts that hold the hub assembly since the CV axle is in the way. Being Torx bolts now makes it even harder to grab than the regular bolts used previously. Do you think I could take out the rear axle from the bottom like you did with the front with your car? Once I get the CV axle out, I'll have better access to the four hub bolts and can replace the hub. And if that's not a fix, I will then replace the CV axle the same way. I am working alone with no one to help me. I was about to give up and take the car to the dealer to install my already purchased hub and to have them sell and install a new CV axle with the tone wheel when I came across your video. You method seems really elegant. Would certainly save me a lot of money since the Volvo dealer charges $160 per hour and I figure they will charge me at least 3 hours in labor for both hub and axle--the incremental labor of axle plus hub should rightly be almost nil, unless they want to double-dip as they like to do.
Here is an idea----- you should not have to remove the axle- if you remove the center axle nut and push on the stub (real hard-- might have to "tap" with a hammer** be very careful not to damage the threads*** I can not stress that part enough), it should move back enough to give you clearance to remove the nuts. I hope that will help you-
@@FarpointRestorationsAndRepairs Thank you for responding. I had the axle nut off and did try to push the axle out, but it would not move. Then I used a brass punch and hammered lightly, afraid to hit it too hard. I went to O'Reilly's and got a "front wheel drive hub puller" to help push the axle in, but did not try it--I wanted to see if I could access the 4 hub Torx-55 bolts first before pushing the axle--I couldn't get good access to the left Upper and Lower bolt, so I gave up. Since I am an old man with no one to help me, if I got it partially apart and couldn't put it back together, I would be screwed. Now watching your video, I am inspired to giving it another try. I am glad that you confirmed that the axle should move back if pushed with sufficient force--I wasn't 100% sure that it would--Susan of 1A-Auto had mentioned pushing the axle back with a brass punch--that's why I got the brass punch. Will give it a try. Thanks. If it is actually the Wheel Bearing and that fixes the ABS problem, it would save me a lot of money. A Volvo dealer told me my ABS problem was the ABS control module and wanted to charge me $3,000--I told them about the error codes and the sensor trying to read the tone wheel before throwing an ABS error after a few rotations of the wheels. They were hell bent on changing the module and my $170 diagnosis fee would not even be credited. What single bolt would I have to remove from the rear to do what you did for the front of your car?
May as well just replace the A-arm, ball joint, inner and outer tie rods and the dropdown sway bar!!! Once you do all that work just for the axle and the vibration starts going to all those old parts instead of the bad axle, you’ll be doing it anyways. And hay, may as well do both sides at the same time! My passenger side axle went first and I just replaced it. 4 months later I had major issues on everything else. So I just did it all the second time. Wish I had just did it all right the first time!
@FarpointRestorationsAndRepairs I've got the use of a lift tomorrow so I hopefully can redismantle it and get some really long leverage on it in the air. It's not it's only problem, just the most pressing one. It needs new engine mounts as it's losing vacuum, new front strut mounts and a tie rod. The SRS warning/service message is also on from replacing the climate control module and reconnecting the battery wrong! It's always been a problem child.
Yes, it just pulls out one you’ve removed the bearing cap from the motor and the outer axle bolt. Try hard and lightly to put it straight out so you don’t mess up the trans seal.
those cheap $40 - $100 aftermarket chinese / whereever axles generally are junk. If your axle is in good shape other than torn boots- I'd get the boot kit; boot, grease, clamps. I 'rebooted' both driver and passenger sides on my 2003 s60. Also replaced the tripod joint for the passenger side. The originals lasted me over 345K miles... and still going. Current mileage; 351K miles. Good luck everybody.
I used to rebuild them, but stopped when a good boot kit and the labor to install it became more expensive for my customers than just having me swap the axle out with a cheap one. That said, I do have a video on CV boot replacement on a Yugo to show folks how it's done.
How come I can’t seem to be able to remove the axle from the transmission as easy you just did it. Could it be the clip is jammed and if so what do I do?
@@FarpointRestorationsAndRepairs Ok thanks. Do you also know why it is impossible to turn the left axle by its self? But it turns when you turn the right side axle. Thanks again.
Is your Volvo manual? Just wondering why there isn't transmission fluid pouring out. I believe the "official" instruction says to empty the automatic transmission oil before removing the axle. Anyway great video 👍
Great video! what ebay axles did you use? I'm seeing detroit axle and 1A auto's TRQ brand as the cheapest options currently. And how has this cheaper axle held up since the swap?
I rather wish you had shown how to do this without removing the ball joint as I had a great deal of trouble detaching the control arm. I got lucky when a friend happened to stop by.
My ball joint (like two other bolts in this job) has an inner 30mm hex bolt that must be held while removing the outer nut. Often the really rusted variable.
I've only had an issue with one. It was a cheap-o that I installed on a customers S40. It was way out of whack, and we ended up having to swap it out with another under warranty. Same brand, but this one was OK.
Thanks for the video. You're a good teacher. You focus on the "gotchas" of the job instead of the obvious or irrelevant things. I'm using this video to tackle a balljoint, axle, and wheel bearing job on my neverending PITA of a 2004 XC70. The only thing I would add to the video, is to remove the brake caliper and hang it safely on the spring out of the way to prevent damage, and give you a little more wiggle room to work.
Thanks for the kind words, and you are correct You can prevent damage to the brake hose by hanging them by the coil spring.
You made it so easy for all technicians around the world . really appreciated... Well done 👍👍👍
comments like this is why I make the videos, Take care
Good thing for the woodstove. I don't have one in my garage but do have one in the living room and basement. I'm currently sitting in front of my little Buddy heater drinking a hot chocolate enjoying a pipe smoke and watching your video.Thanks again Erik& Jen
It's a life saver! I haven't smoked a pipe in some time, but now you've got me thinking...
I find it very relaxing.
Have been waiting for more Volvo videos. Take care!
More to come!
Thank you for the help brother. Just replaced mine now with your guidance.
Glad I could help
The axle bolts are stretcjh bolts and one time use. They also require specific torque plus 90 degrees.
Well, Let me just say this. I worked for Volvo from the day these came out to about 10 years after the last one left the show room. I NEVER replaced the bolts unless they came with a new one, and I ALWAYS just gave it approximately 2 ugga duggas. Of the 500+ axles I replaced. Zero came back. Needless to say, I wouldn't worry about it.
That’s what they make heavy duty locktight for!! 😂 I just won’t want to be the next guy to break it loss. Oh crap, I’m the only one I’ll let work on my baby tank.
2004 xc70 350,000+
2006 xc70 210,000+
Great video. My C30 at only 76,000 miles when I bought already had both axles replaced; one w/ aftermarket the other a dealer reman. The much higher priced OE obviously didn’t hold up very well.
Thank you- at 76k they should have lasted a bit longer
Hi Erik. Wow, $44 vs. $385. Thank you to Jenn for assisting! Personally, would like to see any work needed on your Outlander (for selfish reasons!) Stay warm!
There will be more shortly. Jenn hit a deer so we have to replace a front fender.
@@FarpointRestorationsAndRepairs I hope Jenn is okay and tbe deer met a peaceful end. Sorry it happened.
Those aftermarket volvo axle do not last and are not balanced well. Went through many and just settled for buying GKN or any OEM rebuilt
About that cheerful little nudge with the pry bar. Suppose NO AMOUNT OF prying with lots of wedges, pry bars, grunts and cursing brings the CV joint out. Does this suggest that the CLIP is distorted? The housing, I believe, may also be rusted to whatever it can grab, and not be JUST THE CLIP's retaining fault. Other suggestions before I give up and use the old CV joint? Grateful, Doug Day Maine, 2002 V70, front wheel drive only, driver's side. Replacing strut and ball joint also, but cannot remove the axle.
Rotate the CV joint around so it's 180 over from where it was, and try some more!
@@FarpointRestorationsAndRepairs I was finally able to have the circlip release with the use of a rented slide hammer. But first I had to pry like hell to enable the slide hammer grabber access. (A full quarter inch where there's only an eighth is a tussle). thx, DDay Maine
That and the efforts, as you say, to get the clip in an advantageous position.
I have an ABS tone wheel problem on a 2015 XC70 T6 AWD, leftside/drivers rear wheel. I had replaced the sensor, which was indicated as the initial fault but then it became a tone wheel error upon sensor replacement.
The tone wheel on the 2015 XC70 AWD only comes with a new CV axle, cannot be replaced separately, and it is simply a steel band, rather than the typical castled ring. Someone on Volvo forum told me it was more likely the wheel bearing rather than the tone wheel since the steel bands rarely go bad. It kind of made sense that it could be the wheel bearing since when I am sideways on a gradient, the ABS sensor takes longer to read to come up with the ABS error message (I hear it clicking, attempting to read the tone wheel). So I am trying to replace the wheel bearing hub first to see if that will fix the ABS problem and holding off on replacing the CV axle.
However, I cannot get to the four T-55 bolts that hold the hub assembly since the CV axle is in the way. Being Torx bolts now makes it even harder to grab than the regular bolts used previously. Do you think I could take out the rear axle from the bottom like you did with the front with your car? Once I get the CV axle out, I'll have better access to the four hub bolts and can replace the hub. And if that's not a fix, I will then replace the CV axle the same way.
I am working alone with no one to help me.
I was about to give up and take the car to the dealer to install my already purchased hub and to have them sell and install a new CV axle with the tone wheel when I came across your video. You method seems really elegant.
Would certainly save me a lot of money since the Volvo dealer charges $160 per hour and I figure they will charge me at least 3 hours in labor for both hub and axle--the incremental labor of axle plus hub should rightly be almost nil, unless they want to double-dip as they like to do.
Here is an idea----- you should not have to remove the axle- if you remove the center axle nut and push on the stub (real hard-- might have to "tap" with a hammer** be very careful not to damage the threads*** I can not stress that part enough), it should move back enough to give you clearance to remove the nuts.
I hope that will help you-
@@FarpointRestorationsAndRepairs Thank you for responding. I had the axle nut off and did try to push the axle out, but it would not move. Then I used a brass punch and hammered lightly, afraid to hit it too hard. I went to O'Reilly's and got a "front wheel drive hub puller" to help push the axle in, but did not try it--I wanted to see if I could access the 4 hub Torx-55 bolts first before pushing the axle--I couldn't get good access to the left Upper and Lower bolt, so I gave up.
Since I am an old man with no one to help me, if I got it partially apart and couldn't put it back together, I would be screwed. Now watching your video, I am inspired to giving it another try.
I am glad that you confirmed that the axle should move back if pushed with sufficient force--I wasn't 100% sure that it would--Susan of 1A-Auto had mentioned pushing the axle back with a brass punch--that's why I got the brass punch.
Will give it a try. Thanks.
If it is actually the Wheel Bearing and that fixes the ABS problem, it would save me a lot of money. A Volvo dealer told me my ABS problem was the ABS control module and wanted to charge me $3,000--I told them about the error codes and the sensor trying to read the tone wheel before throwing an ABS error after a few rotations of the wheels. They were hell bent on changing the module and my $170 diagnosis fee would not even be credited.
What single bolt would I have to remove from the rear to do what you did for the front of your car?
May as well just replace the A-arm, ball joint, inner and outer tie rods and the dropdown sway bar!!! Once you do all that work just for the axle and the vibration starts going to all those old parts instead of the bad axle, you’ll be doing it anyways. And hay, may as well do both sides at the same time! My passenger side axle went first and I just replaced it. 4 months later I had major issues on everything else. So I just did it all the second time. Wish I had just did it all right the first time!
And you just identified why The P2 Volvo platform sucks!
"I go by the book normally" Tightens all other screws with the impact 😂
Book time. Not by the book.
Thanks! Question: do you find the cheaper axles to be cheaper quality? thanks again!
2 years later, and no issues. I honestly can't say there is any difference in quality.
How do you know if your cv axle is bad?
It will make a clicking noise on sharp turns or you will see the boot is torn and there is grease under the car
like your lift . where is it from?
It is from Harbor Freight
I’m working on a Volvo XC90 front driver side axle.
It's much the same, but a little larger. Good luck!
where did you purchase your cv axle from? all the options I see are $600
Ebay
@@FarpointRestorationsAndRepairs do you know the username of the ebay seller?
Detroit Axles.
Do I need a alinement afther
Nope! It wouldn't be a bad idea to get one done after a repair like this, but it will not further change your alignment.
That was a great video. Made it look easy.
most jobs are easy once you know the tricks to them. Glad i could help
Ive been whaling on mine for two bloody hours. Its proper stuck.
Its getting two more hours then its getting scrapped.
were you ever able to get it off? These things can be a bear and need some force
@FarpointRestorationsAndRepairs I've got the use of a lift tomorrow so I hopefully can redismantle it and get some really long leverage on it in the air.
It's not it's only problem, just the most pressing one.
It needs new engine mounts as it's losing vacuum, new front strut mounts and a tie rod. The SRS warning/service message is also on from replacing the climate control module and reconnecting the battery wrong!
It's always been a problem child.
Volvo's are some needy cars for sure!@@Falconhunter276
whether oil leaks during replacement?
No, there should not be any leaks when swapping these over unless the transmission was overfilled.
@@FarpointRestorationsAndRepairs ok, thanks for the answer
@@FarpointRestorationsAndRepairs Is that the same for the other side axle? the long one
Yes, it just pulls out one you’ve removed the bearing cap from the motor and the outer axle bolt. Try hard and lightly to put it straight out so you don’t mess up the trans seal.
those cheap $40 - $100 aftermarket chinese / whereever axles generally are junk. If your axle is in good shape other than torn boots- I'd get the boot kit; boot, grease, clamps. I 'rebooted' both driver and passenger sides on my 2003 s60. Also replaced the tripod joint for the passenger side. The originals lasted me over 345K miles... and still going. Current mileage; 351K miles. Good luck everybody.
I used to rebuild them, but stopped when a good boot kit and the labor to install it became more expensive for my customers than just having me swap the axle out with a cheap one. That said, I do have a video on CV boot replacement on a Yugo to show folks how it's done.
How come I can’t seem to be able to remove the axle from the transmission as easy you just did it. Could it be the clip is jammed and if so what do I do?
it could be the clip is rusty causing it get stuck, the best thing to slowly rotate the axle around and keep trying to pop it out in different spots.
@@FarpointRestorationsAndRepairs
Ok thanks. Do you also know why it is impossible to turn the left axle by its self? But it turns when you turn the right side axle. Thanks again.
@@mdinah4839were you able to get that stupid cv axle out? 😂
Is your Volvo manual? Just wondering why there isn't transmission fluid pouring out. I believe the "official" instruction says to empty the automatic transmission oil before removing the axle.
Anyway great video 👍
Automatic has a seal just inside. You can take both axles out without draining any (so long as the seals are good).
Automatic. I can't recall ever doing one of these where fluid came out unless it was overfilled.
Can you do mines I'm in Philadelphia?
No videos for s40 2004 t5.
Good stuff man !
Glad you liked it!
Great video! what ebay axles did you use? I'm seeing detroit axle and 1A auto's TRQ brand as the cheapest options currently. And how has this cheaper axle held up since the swap?
For this car, I usually get the cheap-o parts, it is a winter beater so she gets nothing fancy. We have not had any problems with it so far.
Great Video!!
Thank you
Glad I could help!
Fantastic
Thanks
Best video! Thanks 🎉
You're welcome!
Please let me know where I can order the $44 axle! I need one as soon as possible!
This was nearly a year ago. Welcome to hyper inflation. eBay is where I bought mine.
@@FarpointRestorationsAndRepairs I found one for $60 including tax & shipping, not too bad.
Cant get it in...
Hit it! The snap ring is pretty tight. Sometimes you need to smack the end of the axle with a rubber mallet to pop it back into place.
I rather wish you had shown how to do this without removing the ball joint as I had a great deal of trouble detaching the control arm. I got lucky when a friend happened to stop by.
Sometimes they can be real stubborn to come out. I am glad that you had a friend to help.
My ball joint (like two other bolts in this job) has an inner 30mm hex bolt that must be held while removing the outer nut. Often the really rusted variable.
Those aftermarket volvo axle do not last and are not balanced well. Went through many and just settled for buying GKN or any OEM rebuilt
I've only had an issue with one. It was a cheap-o that I installed on a customers S40. It was way out of whack, and we ended up having to swap it out with another under warranty. Same brand, but this one was OK.
44 USD??? In europe its at least twice as expensive. Buy great tutorial!
I got this one on eBay. Thanks!
max one hour, $380???
More like $500 now.
Right arm!
haven't heard that for a while, but we used to say "Right Arm!" all the time in Pittsburgh in 1970, foxtrot.