I used this stone for a while and loved the results, at first. I was using my Venev CBD Diamond stones then finishing with this stone and was enjoying the results. However, after some time I realized all my edges that I finished on the ceramic would not hold up as long. I then learned about “Carbide Tear Out” and I wanted to test if this could of possibly been the cause. I began moderately testing my edges with some finishing on my Venev and others finishing on the ceramic. I saw a drastic difference with my edge longevity, where the edges I never touched with the ceramic would outlast tenfold the edges I used the ceramic on. Since then I have completely stopped using it and have seen better results overall. The benefit of the Venev stones is that they do leave a good polish by themselves, especially if you perform multiple stropping strokes. Just wanted to relay this information to you and you can take it for what it is. Michael Christy has also done a video on Carbide Tear Out that has more info and testing. Love the content bro, keep it up!
Those Venev stones are probably the best I’ve ever seen, I think I’m going to try to get I few. I usually keep my higher carbide steels at a 600 grit, I have brought XHP, SPY27, 20CV, S30V and S35VN all the way up to a max polish and I feel like I will always put a toothy edge back on them because I like how it performs. I’ve seen that Michael Christy video and I really like it. Thanks for watching
I just wanted to chime in here in and add that I don't think you are seeing carbide tear out as the reason that you are losing your edge longevity. Here is what I have noticed as I have used the Spyderco medium, fine, and ultra fine stones : For whatever reason, it was very easy for me to kick up a burr on the edge of my knives using the ultra fine stone no matter how careful I was in using it. This would happen with even a few light passes. Sometimes, if you don't notice this burr, because it's so fine, what you are now left with is a weakened strip of metal at your edge which will not hold up to anything at all and will make your edge longevity very poor. To be clear, the edge longevity is poor not because of carbide tear out, but because of having an improperly apexed edge. So that's one possible reason you may be seeing poor edge longevity. As a remedy for this, I'd suggest you try out a microbevel to see how you like that. Put one on using a little bit lower grit stone (spyderco medium or fine) using only a few light passes at a greater angle than what you sharpened at. It will normally solve your issue of weakened metal at the edge (the burr) and leave you with a better performing edge which is super easy to touch up later when it dulls. Just apply the microbevel again and you're good to go. You will find you'll not need full sharpenings nearly as often this way. A 2nd reason you may be seeing poor edge longevity is because of the fact that a highly polished edge will not last as long in cutting performance, particularly slicing cuts, as an edge which was finished on a much lower grit stone. The more aggressive, toothy edge will cut with greater efficiency for a longer period of time than an edge which is highly polished. Just test this out for yourself. Take a blade and sharpen it with a coarse grit stone, maybe something around 400 grit up to a max of a 1000 grit stone and then cut some rope or cardboard and note how much you've cut before it stops cleanly slicing printer paper. Then, take that same blade and sharpen at the same angle but sharpen through the grit progression ending on a much finer grit stone, like the Spyderco ultrafine, and not how much cardboard or rope you can cut with it before it stops cleanly slicing printer paper. I bet you'll find the more aggressive edge left by the coarser stone cuts more aggressively and lasts longer. Hope that helps!
Science of Sharp has disproven the myth of carbide tear out with extremely high magnification images. Despite what has been said, carbides are very firmly cemented in the steel matrix
@@topfueljunkie100 Nice post, you saved me the typing and the responses, I was going to write a similar thing. The Spyderco Ceramic Stones are waaaaaaay finer than people think they are, if I had to estimate the grits using the JIS just from a magnified look at the grit finish, I would say the Spyderco Medium Ceramic is 4-5k, the Fine 6-8k, and the UF 10-12k. This is done with comparisons to similar grit JIS waterstones. Nowhere close to being perfect, but you work with what you have got. The reason the Spyderco Ceramic Stones raise a burr so easily is because the stones are very hard, probably over 70 HRC and they are also very dense. Also, if the stone hasn't been freshly lapped, it could be burnishing instead of cutting, these stones will glass faster than most. Also, using a lubricant with these stones helps a ton, light mineral oil or baby oil works great.
Thanks for the video. New subscriber here. As a hobbyist knifemaker/bladesmith, I have used the Spiderco Medium for some time for touchups and to put on a microbevel. I'm about to purchase the Ultra Fine. Tip for cleaning: I use an inexpensive rust eraser -- works great and does not require soap and water.
I have the Spyderco stones medium, fine and UF. The medium and fine have beveled edged but the UF is squared?! Is yours like this too? Was thinking mine skipped qc, but that looks squared too. Why would they do that, I’m a little worried about scratching the blade/edge with it.
Glad to hear I'm not the only one that has a problem deburring w this stone. I've been using the rough side of leather to deburr... even the leather pouches that spyderco stones come in seem to work.
@itsaknifestyle8482 I haven't watched the whole video yet, so forgive me if you mentioned this. I also have this same stone, and while I find it's prone to forming very sharp, but hard to remove micro-burrs, it also cuts very gently. Use this to your advantage. Swap sides regularly all the way through your sharpening, then at the end make two edge leading passes per side to create a microbevel at +2ish dps. The raised angle edge leading passes will deburr completely, but won't take away any sharpness.
I'm going to run my SPY27 off of the K80 and do a full Spyderco medium, fine and ultra fine progression and test that and see how this steel does off of multiple abrasives. How is it doing for you so far?
Mine has sharpened up very well on all of the different stone combinations I’ve tried. My first edge was a full mirror polish, but I just recently put a 600 grit diamond edge on it and I have been really liking it. The steel has felt really good on my stones (deburring nicely and coming up crispy) but I have noticed some frequent edge damage. I assume the edge was just burnt but I guess I’ll figure that out over time. Anyway, thanks for watching
If you use a lapping block, every time you use the ceramic stone, you'll never have build-up and your stone will always be flat. Don't scrub like a maniac and wear the stone unnecessarily - just a few good brushes each time you use it.
I have 2 mediums. One lapped to 120 grit( keeps the original cutting) 2nd lapped to 400 so it’s like a medium fine. Then the UF lapped to 1200. Mainly used for my leather knives. Pocket knives I’ll go up to the “medium fine” then stropped on either black or white compound on leather, depending on the knife
I do not have the UF spyderco . I use a leather strop with some Flexgold loaded on the leather and a leather conditioner for lubrication. That's for me.
One interesting thing about the fine and ultra fine is that they are both the same material, but they are finished different from the factory. I assume that either with sandpaper or silicon carbide power you could turn the fine into an ultra fine. I have seen a TH-cam video where a guy does it, I believe his name is Northwest Knife Guy if you wanna check it out. Thanks for watching
In my experience, the stones grind finer than you would think of the grain, but only if you keep them clean When grinding you can often hear a crackling sound, these are the remains of the Burr and that is bad for the cutting edge You should also always test how the stones behave with which steel, sometimes they are better dry, sometimes with water or with water and a little dish soap
The UF spyderco is an excellent stone. I havent used mine much since i bought the venev stones but it cuts quickly and leaves a great polish. Thanks for the video.
I really like that stone too, I just use it dry and clean it often . Then I finish off on my translucent Arkansas. Those two stones are excellent finishing stones in that order 👌🏻 But the UF is an absolutely excellent finishing stone by itself. And it will last a very long time 👍🍻
@@gonad84 Congratulations with the new nice stones . Translucent or black, that is a good question. I happen to have a translucent one , and of course I’m perfectly happy with that , but I would be just as happy with a black one . The black is a bit less fine in its structure, but that is not necessarily a bad thing, it is still very very fine . Surgeons used to sharpen their scalpels on them ...Happy sharpening 🔪🔪🔪✌🏻
Mine too. They are not flattened after they get produced. I flattened one side myself with a diamond plate. That needed really long. And it was an electric grinding plate. The problem is after that the medium stone was kind of Extra fine... So i have two different sides now...
I have their medium and fine stone pretty good stones but I don’t think anyone needs a stone this ultra fine stone or even the fine version as the medium stone by itself gets a knife hair popping sharp 🤷♂️.
I used this stone for a while and loved the results, at first. I was using my Venev CBD Diamond stones then finishing with this stone and was enjoying the results. However, after some time I realized all my edges that I finished on the ceramic would not hold up as long. I then learned about “Carbide Tear Out” and I wanted to test if this could of possibly been the cause. I began moderately testing my edges with some finishing on my Venev and others finishing on the ceramic. I saw a drastic difference with my edge longevity, where the edges I never touched with the ceramic would outlast tenfold the edges I used the ceramic on. Since then I have completely stopped using it and have seen better results overall. The benefit of the Venev stones is that they do leave a good polish by themselves, especially if you perform multiple stropping strokes.
Just wanted to relay this information to you and you can take it for what it is. Michael Christy has also done a video on Carbide Tear Out that has more info and testing.
Love the content bro, keep it up!
Those Venev stones are probably the best I’ve ever seen, I think I’m going to try to get I few.
I usually keep my higher carbide steels at a 600 grit, I have brought XHP, SPY27, 20CV, S30V and S35VN all the way up to a max polish and I feel like I will always put a toothy edge back on them because I like how it performs. I’ve seen that Michael Christy video and I really like it. Thanks for watching
I just wanted to chime in here in and add that I don't think you are seeing carbide tear out as the reason that you are losing your edge longevity.
Here is what I have noticed as I have used the Spyderco medium, fine, and ultra fine stones :
For whatever reason, it was very easy for me to kick up a burr on the edge of my knives using the ultra fine stone no matter how careful I was in using it. This would happen with even a few light passes.
Sometimes, if you don't notice this burr, because it's so fine, what you are now left with is a weakened strip of metal at your edge which will not hold up to anything at all and will make your edge longevity very poor.
To be clear, the edge longevity is poor not because of carbide tear out, but because of having an improperly apexed edge.
So that's one possible reason you may be seeing poor edge longevity.
As a remedy for this, I'd suggest you try out a microbevel to see how you like that. Put one on using a little bit lower grit stone (spyderco medium or fine) using only a few light passes at a greater angle than what you sharpened at. It will normally solve your issue of weakened metal at the edge (the burr) and leave you with a better performing edge which is super easy to touch up later when it dulls. Just apply the microbevel again and you're good to go. You will find you'll not need full sharpenings nearly as often this way.
A 2nd reason you may be seeing poor edge longevity is because of the fact that a highly polished edge will not last as long in cutting performance, particularly slicing cuts, as an edge which was finished on a much lower grit stone. The more aggressive, toothy edge will cut with greater efficiency for a longer period of time than an edge which is highly polished.
Just test this out for yourself. Take a blade and sharpen it with a coarse grit stone, maybe something around 400 grit up to a max of a 1000 grit stone and then cut some rope or cardboard and note how much you've cut before it stops cleanly slicing printer paper. Then, take that same blade and sharpen at the same angle but sharpen through the grit progression ending on a much finer grit stone, like the Spyderco ultrafine, and not how much cardboard or rope you can cut with it before it stops cleanly slicing printer paper. I bet you'll find the more aggressive edge left by the coarser stone cuts more aggressively and lasts longer.
Hope that helps!
Does anyone show microtearout at the micro level? Show us a magnified blade!
Science of Sharp has disproven the myth of carbide tear out with extremely high magnification images. Despite what has been said, carbides are very firmly cemented in the steel matrix
@@topfueljunkie100 Nice post, you saved me the typing and the responses, I was going to write a similar thing. The Spyderco Ceramic Stones are waaaaaaay finer than people think they are, if I had to estimate the grits using the JIS just from a magnified look at the grit finish, I would say the Spyderco Medium Ceramic is 4-5k, the Fine 6-8k, and the UF 10-12k. This is done with comparisons to similar grit JIS waterstones. Nowhere close to being perfect, but you work with what you have got. The reason the Spyderco Ceramic Stones raise a burr so easily is because the stones are very hard, probably over 70 HRC and they are also very dense. Also, if the stone hasn't been freshly lapped, it could be burnishing instead of cutting, these stones will glass faster than most. Also, using a lubricant with these stones helps a ton, light mineral oil or baby oil works great.
Thanks for the video. New subscriber here. As a hobbyist knifemaker/bladesmith, I have used the Spiderco Medium for some time for touchups and to put on a microbevel. I'm about to purchase the Ultra Fine. Tip for cleaning: I use an inexpensive rust eraser -- works great and does not require soap and water.
Can i use oil?!
Nice vid. What is the make of the stone holder?
I have the Spyderco stones medium, fine and UF. The medium and fine have beveled edged but the UF is squared?! Is yours like this too? Was thinking mine skipped qc, but that looks squared too. Why would they do that, I’m a little worried about scratching the blade/edge with it.
Mine is also squared
How about a salt shaker for the Bar Keeps Friend? Thanks.
Glad to hear I'm not the only one that has a problem deburring w this stone. I've been using the rough side of leather to deburr... even the leather pouches that spyderco stones come in seem to work.
Yeah it’s very weird, I feel like this stone should be one of the best at deburring out there, but for some reason it’s not. Thanks for watching
@itsaknifestyle8482
I haven't watched the whole video yet, so forgive me if you mentioned this. I also have this same stone, and while I find it's prone to forming very sharp, but hard to remove micro-burrs, it also cuts very gently. Use this to your advantage. Swap sides regularly all the way through your sharpening, then at the end make two edge leading passes per side to create a microbevel at +2ish dps. The raised angle edge leading passes will deburr completely, but won't take away any sharpness.
I'm going to run my SPY27 off of the K80 and do a full Spyderco medium, fine and ultra fine progression and test that and see how this steel does off of multiple abrasives. How is it doing for you so far?
Mine has sharpened up very well on all of the different stone combinations I’ve tried. My first edge was a full mirror polish, but I just recently put a 600 grit diamond edge on it and I have been really liking it. The steel has felt really good on my stones (deburring nicely and coming up crispy) but I have noticed some frequent edge damage. I assume the edge was just burnt but I guess I’ll figure that out over time. Anyway, thanks for watching
BTW the Civivi arrived in the mail yesterday👍
@@itsaknifestyle8482 thank you again
If you use a lapping block, every time you use the ceramic stone, you'll never have build-up and your stone will always be flat. Don't scrub like a maniac and wear the stone unnecessarily - just a few good brushes each time you use it.
Try windex as a lubricate. Makes cleaning up easier.
I’ve gotten a lil bit into ceramic and Diamond stones for my knives. I think that’s the way to go from now on. So far falkniven CC4 and DC4
Phone book? What is that?
I have 2 mediums. One lapped to 120 grit( keeps the original cutting) 2nd lapped to 400 so it’s like a medium fine. Then the UF lapped to 1200. Mainly used for my leather knives. Pocket knives I’ll go up to the “medium fine” then stropped on either black or white compound on leather, depending on the knife
I do not have the UF spyderco . I use a leather strop with some Flexgold loaded on the leather and a leather conditioner for lubrication. That's for me.
I have a fine Spyderco but one side is lapped with 1000 grit sandpaper. I wonder if the UF would be finer? Do you know of a way to tell?
One interesting thing about the fine and ultra fine is that they are both the same material, but they are finished different from the factory. I assume that either with sandpaper or silicon carbide power you could turn the fine into an ultra fine. I have seen a TH-cam video where a guy does it, I believe his name is Northwest Knife Guy if you wanna check it out. Thanks for watching
@@itsaknifestyle8482 Yes I've seen it. I was wondering if it would even justify me getting an UF.
I would honestly just stick with the fine. I feel like you probably wouldn’t be able to tell the difference between the two
@@itsaknifestyle8482 thanks for the advice.
Ultrafine is supposed to be equivalent to 2000 grit. Owning both the UF stone and 2000 grit sand paper; I would say this is accurate.
I'm going to try putting bar keepers' friend in a dollar store salt shaker. Or maybe a pepper grinder.
I thought you would use a back and forth stroke
Use a hi-polymer eraser to remove the load up, works perfectly.
If you leave the sticker on over most of the holes and leave like 2 uncovered then you can get less to come out
In my experience, the stones grind finer than you would think of the grain, but only if you keep them clean
When grinding you can often hear a crackling sound, these are the remains of the Burr and that is bad for the cutting edge
You should also always test how the stones behave with which steel, sometimes they are better dry, sometimes with water or with water and a little dish soap
Try liquid Bar Keepers Friend. Much easier to control.
it's good stuff, but it doesn't seem to remove as much steel.
Try plain ol cheap white tooth paste. Works really well and leaves it smelling really good as well.
Love that stone use an eraser to clean it once it's dry
The UF spyderco is an excellent stone. I havent used mine much since i bought the venev stones but it cuts quickly and leaves a great polish. Thanks for the video.
Im gonna have to save up for some of those venev stones. Everyone loves them. Thanks for watching
Use pink or white eraser with a old paint brush.
I really like that stone too, I just use it dry and clean it often . Then I finish off on my translucent Arkansas. Those two stones are excellent finishing stones in that order 👌🏻 But the UF is an absolutely excellent finishing stone by itself. And it will last a very long time 👍🍻
I just ordered two of these spyderco stones. Do you recommend a black or translucent Arkansas for going beyond these even?
@@gonad84 Congratulations with the new nice stones . Translucent or black, that is a good question. I happen to have a translucent one , and of course I’m perfectly happy with that , but I would be just as happy with a black one . The black is a bit less fine in its structure, but that is not necessarily a bad thing, it is still very very fine . Surgeons used to sharpen their scalpels on them ...Happy sharpening 🔪🔪🔪✌🏻
6:47 sounds like you can hear the burr. Or there's still some grit on there 😋
My medium isn't very flat at all!
Mine too. They are not flattened after they get produced. I flattened one side myself with a diamond plate. That needed really long. And it was an electric grinding plate. The problem is after that the medium stone was kind of Extra fine... So i have two different sides now...
Btw the UF comes really flat!
@@jensebu78 No, it doesn't !
@@jrclad2964 mine did. You can see the marks where it was flattened every time you use it. It is flat. At least mine is for my purposes
I have their medium and fine stone pretty good stones but I don’t think anyone needs a stone this ultra fine stone or even the fine version as the medium stone by itself gets a knife hair popping sharp 🤷♂️.
Take a wooden dowel and break apart / stir the barkeepers friend, then it will pour like salt.
Лубриканты и вазелин половину видоса готовил, а вторую половину видос - извращался.
Пацаны, розовый рубин 3000 тема за супернелорого!
1 year later...$75, $90
Oof. I would not have bought this for 90
The UF is 110 now. The fine is still 75 I think.